The gasket should go round the thermostat (ie the thermostat should go through the gasket hole) not that it makes any difference because the stat is operated by water temp not block temp.) although I do agree the seal is from the stat flange to the block.
Great job in fixing what was essentially a trashed heat exchanger. No reason why that repair should not last many years. Just shows that with a bit of ingenuity most things can be fixed at low cost. Thanks for sharing this, you may well have saved quite a few boaters a heap of money down the track.
Stu, Really enjoyed seeing a good old repair video. Having someone standing there watching every move tends to be a bit cringey and puts one off the normal routine, but he turned out to be a good sport and a decent helper. For sure, he will understand how much time even simple stuff takes. Looking forward to the next video.
Hi Stu, Good job on that one. Reminded me years ago helping a friend with his boat with two rebuilt 327 small block engines. I asked him what was wrong he said nothing he didn't know how to set the timing on the new rebuilds. We got there and the boat front was sunk at the marina but didn't get to the motors fortunately. Got the bulge pump working and start getting all that water out while I started on the motors. First thing I found was the distributors were both out 180 degrees. Got them set and hooked up my timing light. Both motors fired right up. He dry docked it the next day to find the bow had a leak and being a wood boat got into it and patched it up. It had twin brass props which was cool. The boat was a cabin cruiser from the 40's
Holy shit! You own your own helicoil box of tricks!? You sir, are the most professional hack that I have ever come across in my time of adventuring with hacks.
Just finished a similar job on my heat exchanger and I was shouting at the screen "YOU NEED A WASHER UNDER THE END BOLT"' sure enough you did I was quite smug until I realized I went through allot harder trials and tribulations with mine, and made some really dumb moves of my own. But mine works now and no doubt your mates one does too :)
@Dangar Marine. Still really enjoy the peaceful interlude with Daisy and Daffy at the end of your videos. Please keep it up! Thanks, Stu! Watching from Fairbanks.
Good for my mental state seeing a couple of guys working on the boat and having a beer.... I'll be starting a wreck hunting/history channel soon, first episode in my Dangar T shirt as you've inspired me and kept me going. .......A homemade sidescan sonar towfish would be a good episode Stu ;)
@@DangarMarine Beauchief Wreck Divers on youtube...just started it! Just getting to grips with it all at the moment but should be out on the unknown wrecks end of the month. See how it goes, should be a laugh and thats all im doing it for :)
i like this video 50 thumps up, what i like mostly about it, you went through the difficult part with your viewers incase we come across obstacles, thank Chief.
3:54 feed the shank of the tap up through the hole and tap up (instead of down). So long as you've got 1 full thread to align the tap and take it very slowly you're golden.
Very interesting Stu, great job on the port heat exchanger which looks and operates so much like new that the starboard heat exchanger got over heated with jealousy. Jeff in LA USA
@@cmmartti from my experience the heli-coil doesn't stay staked in place and come out with the bolt when removed. the time-set spreads as the insertion tool installs the insert. also the time-set is more readily accepting of thread locker when used. I guess heli-coils do have their area of use.
Hi Stu , absolutely love your work area where you do all these projects with all your tools and equipment , it is the kind of workshop all Men need in their lives .
We run that same orange rtv in place of header gaskets or exhaust gaskets on cars and trucks so they can handle a lot of heat and it works great and almost never leaks
Nice win for the port motor. I kept wondering when you were going to get out the spray bottle with soapy water in it. That could have saved a few trips to the dock.
Soapy water spray won’t show you if there is a leak between the core and the coolant reservoir. You need to see bubbles coming out of the filler neck to knock if there is a leak there.
@@DangarMarine very true, but if you're leak is in the hose setup or in an external seal, it sure finds it quickly. It's a good first check, that's all. And in this case ...
I might suggest retrofitting an exhaust manifold from and industrial or truck engine without a heat exchanger built in and using a plain shell and tube heat exchanger. You can use a header tank with radiator cap built in from a source of hot rod and race car parts. I've done this on several Isuzu and Perkins diesels in the past, with exhaust manifolds wrapped in non-asbestos wrap and it works fine. The manifold temperature stays lower than you'd expect. Make a wet elbow from stainless pipe fittings with a seawater injection pipe welded in. That way you'll have no sketchy aluminum parts exposed to seawater. Lobster fishermen in Maine often use this setup with a keel cooler made from copper tubing and a dry exhaust. Good Luck!
He does a great job of videos. It reminds me of the grand Banks I bought in the first two weeks I rebuilt 14 water pumps mention it to the neighbors on the boat next door they said they're not surprised it hadn't been away from the dock and four years except for the sea trial. I asked them why they didn't tell me that when I was looking at it and they said they're friends of the owner and I asked him how come they didn't tell me Well now they're friends with the new owner they can tell me.
The way they clean boilers (heat exchangers) in industry is to run hot moderately concentrated HCl (hydrochloric acid) mixed in water through them. The Cl atom combines readily with corrosion like Magnesium creating a water soluble salt (MgCl), which can then be flushed away with water. It produces Hydrogen gas, which needs to be vented properly during this operation. It doesn't attack metal because it isn't in situ long enough to do that, it is only in the heat exchanger for15-20 minutes.
In Egypt the boat crews would run a rope through the mooring bridles then back to the boat that way you have more control also the option to cut it if it is going wrong in a hurry. Good fix on the H Ex
I often need to do that on Renko because the bow is so high. It does give extra flexibility and the ability to cut as you say. I'd love to sail the Nile one day.
Nice job with the time-sent. I’ve seen guys who claim to be pros install the insert above the surface and they won’t work and of course it’s not their fault.
Hey Stu, grab yourself a rifle bore cleaner kit with various caliber brush sizes, cheap tool to mechanically clean tubes like in the heat exchanger, if you can access both ends bore snake are brilliant.
Good work Stu. I like it when you think outside the box. Something you can try sometime for bolts that are subject to moisture, dip the threads in Stockholm tar
I found the epoxy let go on my old ford heat exchanger after a season. Your prep was better than mine though. I've marinized a pair of Cummins truck engines on my channel. Used mani-headers and separate head exchangers, I think that is a much cheaper option if you have to replace the vetus ones.
I agree a set of separate headers and heat exchangers is probably a better way to go, there is no problem with space on this boat. I'll check out your marinisation vids!
Nice. Must admit I was sceptical about the repair. Looks good, though. RTV, brilliant stuff, but has been the death of many engines sealing where it shouldn't. Good to see you using it very sparingly. I guess from the discussion that this has a wet exhaust.
Enjoyed seeing your broody hen. Chickens are funny. We got 16" of snow here- it's just melting - but our hens think it's spring. Normally, we are getting 2-3 eggs in February, but we got 18 eggs yesterday, out of 21 hens. The kicker is that half of them are old and stopped laying years ago. That's crazy. Seeing blue and green and pink and spotted eggs again. The old girls still have a few left when they feel like it! Seems like putting the remote door opener has something to do with it. Egg numbers have gone up consistently since then. Maybe they feel more secure at night? Or maybe the older hens are forced to smell the pheromones of the younger girls, and want to compete, since chickens compete at everything? Who knows, but we have lots of eggs for friends and family.
Hey Stu, when you change that gasket on the thermostat, will you check to see if that thermostat goes under the gasket. I thought I saw a recessed cavity in the engine housing. I hope I'm wrong, just hate to see it crack the housing. Also might bring an extra thermostat incase I'm right and it crushed part of the flange of the thermostat. Good job on everything. Seeing you in that hull working makes me glad I don't work on boats! I would've had to cut more of the floor to get in there. Definitely deserves a beer after that!
In this episode our hero Stu takes the role of Jedi Engine Master and Pete is the Padawan... 03:2009:30 Good see Pete taking workshop safety seriously with the appropriate 'safety thongs' for footwear :) 20:30 but ditches them on his own boat I always find dies and tapping to create threads somehow magical - odd I know.
20:39 Stu, stainless is not as "brittle" as mild steel (it's actually quite tough). A470 grade SS bolts (probably the most common in Oz) have an ultimate strength of 700 MPa (not far below a Grade 8..8 of 800 MPa) but a much lower yield strength of 410 MPa (compared to 640 for a Grade 8.8), so SS bolts will "stretch" (elongate) for a if they are over-tightened without increasing their effective clamping force until they snap. (Clarified for the record)
Interesting to hear. I was always told that stainless was very hard to drill and cut etc but also one of the weakest bolts you can your from a tensile strength point of view. It's often seen stainless fastners that are over tightened just shear and then almost impossible to drill out.
@@DangarMarine All my years working with SS, you find out pretty quick that SS does not like heat.....if you overheat SS by drilling etc. and cause it to "blue" it's damn near bullet proof at that point. The trick is to use very low RPM drill speed (400rpm or lower) and lots of lube. I think the grade of SS may be a factor as well
@@DangarMarine Yes, in that case the bolt has "strain hardened" past its yield point for an A470 bolt of 410 MPa up to 700 MPa when it sheared/fractured (which is actually pretty close to a Grade 8.8 (800 MPa) high strength bolt)
Nice one Stu on the repair as for daisy yep got the same as but my other chook hilary isn't paying her rent in the coop where green eggs she is old and still producing lols look forward to next vid , cheers ,shaneo, nelson ,nz
You can likely purchase aluminum plate and pipe and weld that onto the remaining metal. It will be much cheaper and if it doesn't work you could always fall back on having the piece machined. Just a thought.
Quick tip : when installing the exchanger or exhaust manifold, if you have room use studs to slide the piece on and hold the weight also they will line everything up.
I might've missed something, but I think the overheating engine was the one not running a thermostat? Depending on the engine and cooling system design, some engines WILL overheat without a thermostat. The coolant is moving way too fast for proper heat transfer.
Liquid to Liquid is more efficient than Liquid to Air so it is probably plugged passages in the exchanger. You are correct about coolant needing time in the radiator to shed heat and a missing thermostat can lead to overheating.
@@nferraro222 The Liquid to Liquid efficiency is how the heat exchanger can be only around 3" in diameter and about 18" long. We are all here to be entertained and to learn something new. :)
. A solid flow of water should have the same conductivity as a stationary mass of water. There are many variables but none of them are enough to justify a blanket statement that some marine engines will overheat because they don't have a thermostat. An automobile is an entirely different story since the coolant needs to be held in the radiator for a longer period of time to cool down. Ipso fatso, thermostat in car aids cooling, thermostat in a boat keeps the engine warm enough to run right.
Isnt it normally thermostat then gasket followed by housing? Looked like there was a lip for the thermostat to sit in... other wise love the vids. Wish I could find one of them as a project here in the states.
@@bobbuilder5362 Agreed, stainless is a very broad term, so many different grades, some grades that are classes as stainless will actually rust, some will just dull and some will always maintain shine, just an indication of the great visual differences, but when talking tensile strength, shear strength, hardnesses, so many variables including chemical makeup , cast or forged and heat treatment
If you cut the end off the heat exchanger be sure that the alum is not corroded as if you try to weld it it will explode as the salt and the alum when heated turns to hydrogen as I have had this happen to me twice and what a mess of the alum it makes.
Nice repair. The only issue with cutting the end of the other one is it’s cast aluminum. Welding cast aluminum is rarely successful. I’d consult a welder before you have take the plunge. I’ve never had any success welding cast aluminum’s. I can weld cast iron all day long. It’ll have to be TIG but even that is difficult. Cheers Jeremy K.
thanks for the video ! i suspect that going the aluminum replacement machining will cost more than a replacement unit...its part of our design for throw away consumption society problem where most things are no longer serviceable,,,
Hey Stu, did you have any more vids of your trip south? And i hope your mate in this one stocks Renko with some good whisky, or something for all your hard work.
Generally there is a long generally brass/ copper alloy stud that runs right through the heat exchanger to hold the end caps on, generally of course, highly dependent on make/model, personally never seen an actual thread into a heat exchanger?? Maybe I have been enlightened by this video 😜
Bunnings is the same as lowes or home depot mate. Only difference is bunnings dont sell Milwaukee brand over here private smaller shops do. Our version or canadian tire is called repco or supercheap auto. Cheers
Mate we're in Australia,,, never heard of them last 3 ,,, are they in the US?? in such case i have no idead which is closer to bunnings,,, do you have a tape measure i can borrow
Everything is still as it was after this fix. It's been running nicely but we know they will both need more attention soon. I'll keep nudging Pete to do them before he is forced to. ;)
30:20 the thermostat go's UNDER the gasket and sits directly on the block opening and the gasket go's on top of it
Yup - saw that as well. Dunno if it will make a difference though - tons of gasket sealer...
@@gojump69 It will, the housing has a slight depression that the thermo sits in to hold and align it.
I picked that up too.
It can be possible to crack the housing when doing the bolts up
The gasket should go round the thermostat (ie the thermostat should go through the gasket hole) not that it makes any difference because the stat is operated by water temp not block temp.) although I do agree the seal is from the stat flange to the block.
Working while trying to have a conversation makes it very hard to concentrate on what your doing ..
What a shot! That coolant pour-in with no funnel!
Great job in fixing what was essentially a trashed heat exchanger. No reason why that repair should not last many years. Just shows that with a bit of ingenuity most things can be fixed at low cost. Thanks for sharing this, you may well have saved quite a few boaters a heap of money down the track.
Thanks mate, it will be interesting to see how it goes.
Nice job and funny to see that living on the opposite side of the world you still have the same Würth tools and chemicals as we do here!
The worlds workshops are familiar places for us all. :)
Stu,
Really enjoyed seeing a good old repair video. Having someone standing there watching every move tends to be a bit cringey and puts one off the normal routine, but he turned out to be a good sport and a decent helper. For sure, he will understand how much time even simple stuff takes. Looking forward to the next video.
Hi Stu, Good job on that one. Reminded me years ago helping a friend with his boat with two rebuilt 327 small block engines. I asked him what was wrong he said nothing he didn't know how to set the timing on the new rebuilds. We got there and the boat front was sunk at the marina but didn't get to the motors fortunately. Got the bulge pump working and start getting all that water out while I started on the motors. First thing I found was the distributors were both out 180 degrees. Got them set and hooked up my timing light. Both motors fired right up. He dry docked it the next day to find the bow had a leak and being a wood boat got into it and patched it up. It had twin brass props which was cool. The boat was a cabin cruiser from the 40's
Nice work. Sounds like he would have had a great boat once those few things were sorted out.
Holy shit! You own your own helicoil box of tricks!? You sir, are the most professional hack that I have ever come across in my time of adventuring with hacks.
Thanks mate. ;)
Just finished a similar job on my heat exchanger and I was shouting at the screen "YOU NEED A WASHER UNDER THE END BOLT"' sure enough you did I was quite smug until I realized I went through allot harder trials and tribulations with mine, and made some really dumb moves of my own. But mine works now and no doubt your mates one does too :)
Yes, all these jobs require a bit of trial and error when you do them for the first time. That's the joy of DIY!
Had a cuo of tea and some fig newtons and your show before bed. Perfect evening. God Bless you and yours Dangar Stu.
Sounds like a perfect end to the day....
@Dangar Marine. Still really enjoy the peaceful interlude with Daisy and Daffy at the end of your videos. Please keep it up! Thanks, Stu! Watching from Fairbanks.
Dragon u are a miracle work . I sure hope I can made my 2008 a electric start . It is a two stroke. Cheers Johnnie
Your chickens are very very spoiled. And it was nice of you to help out your mate, as you often do, Stu.
They are. It’s always good to hang out and play with boats. :)
Good fix Stu!! 99% of people that would have seen that would have just bought a new one. Keep us posted on how long it lasts!
Will do!
Good for my mental state seeing a couple of guys working on the boat and having a beer....
I'll be starting a wreck hunting/history channel soon, first episode in my Dangar T shirt as you've inspired me and kept me going.
.......A homemade sidescan sonar towfish would be a good episode Stu ;)
Thanks mate, looking forward to checking out your vids.
@@DangarMarine Beauchief Wreck Divers on youtube...just started it! Just getting to grips with it all at the moment but should be out on the unknown wrecks end of the month. See how it goes, should be a laugh and thats all im doing it for :)
Great Comradeship, see Adrian helping yoy
and you Stu helping Pete. And showing us too.
Great for the Successful Outcome too 👍👍🚣
Yes, the cycle of karma continues. :)
i like this video 50 thumps up, what i like mostly about it, you went through the difficult part with your viewers incase we come across obstacles, thank Chief.
3:54 feed the shank of the tap up through the hole and tap up (instead of down). So long as you've got 1 full thread to align the tap and take it very slowly you're golden.
Very interesting Stu, great job on the port heat exchanger which looks and operates so much like new that the starboard heat exchanger got over heated with jealousy. Jeff in LA USA
I think you might be right Jeff!
I don't give the screwdriver handle too long inside the bottle Stu. Love the work though well done. Only one to go now!
I love the time-sert thread inserts you used. so much better than heli-coil repairs.
Yes, I really like the time-Serts too.
@@cmmartti from my experience the heli-coil doesn't stay staked in place and come out with the bolt when removed. the time-set spreads as the insertion tool installs the insert. also the time-set is more readily accepting of thread locker when used. I guess heli-coils do have their area of use.
Hi Stu , absolutely love your work area where you do all these projects with all your tools and equipment , it is the kind of workshop all Men need in their lives .
Wow, thank you!
Good job. Thank you Stu.
Glad you enjoyed it
Sweet! something to watch on a rainy Sydney afternoon.
Same here mate
Sydney duck's . . were escaped convicts , they ended up in the original Barbary coast . . San Fran US . . the docks
@@benwinter2420 I didn't know about that, I just looked it up.. Very interesting
Perfect way to end a snowy day in canada!
Same here in chicago were getting another round snow too lol
@@chrisspeer3257 stay safe in the snow. 10 inches in southwestern ont
Same here in Houston
Stu, you are very resourceful! I guess that is what makes you able to do your thing. Also, very entertaining. Thank you.
I appreciate that, thanks for watching!
The joy of boat repair ,when 1 is done another shows up. The never ending story.....lol great video, great DYI repair.
Any man that would go to sea for fun would go to hell for a holiday . . Joseph Conrad
We run that same orange rtv in place of header gaskets or exhaust gaskets on cars and trucks so they can handle a lot of heat and it works great and almost never leaks
It is great stuff for sure.
Nice win for the port motor. I kept wondering when you were going to get out the spray bottle with soapy water in it. That could have saved a few trips to the dock.
Soapy water spray won’t show you if there is a leak between the core and the coolant reservoir. You need to see bubbles coming out of the filler neck to knock if there is a leak there.
@@DangarMarine very true, but if you're leak is in the hose setup or in an external seal, it sure finds it quickly. It's a good first check, that's all. And in this case ...
"every job you do gives you five more to do" man that's brilliant
I might suggest retrofitting an exhaust manifold from and industrial or truck engine without a heat exchanger built in and using a plain shell and tube heat exchanger. You can use a header tank with radiator cap built in from a source of hot rod and race car parts. I've done this on several Isuzu and Perkins diesels in the past, with exhaust manifolds wrapped in non-asbestos wrap and it works fine. The manifold temperature stays lower than you'd expect. Make a wet elbow from stainless pipe fittings with a seawater injection pipe welded in. That way you'll have no sketchy aluminum parts exposed to seawater. Lobster fishermen in Maine often use this setup with a keel cooler made from copper tubing and a dry exhaust. Good Luck!
I agree, a separate header and heat exchanger would be a good upgrade that doesn't involve any custom marine parts.
Thanks for another excellent video !!!
Thanks for watching. :)
Great instructional video. Well explained and interesting as always. Good work Stu.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks like you guys did a fine job!!!
I’m learning so much from your site. Thanks Stu!
He does a great job of videos. It reminds me of the grand Banks I bought in the first two weeks I rebuilt 14 water pumps mention it to the neighbors on the boat next door they said they're not surprised it hadn't been away from the dock and four years except for the sea trial. I asked them why they didn't tell me that when I was looking at it and they said they're friends of the owner and I asked him how come they didn't tell me Well now they're friends with the new owner they can tell me.
👍thanks hope your well
This channel is awesome.
Thanks
You’re welcome. :)
Nice one Stu,keep up the good work and take care
Thanks, you too!
Great job
Thanks!
Great stuff guys - well done
Thank you kindly!
The way they clean boilers (heat exchangers) in industry is to run hot moderately concentrated HCl (hydrochloric acid) mixed in water through them. The Cl atom combines readily with corrosion like Magnesium creating a water soluble salt (MgCl), which can then be flushed away with water. It produces Hydrogen gas, which needs to be vented properly during this operation. It doesn't attack metal because it isn't in situ long enough to do that, it is only in the heat exchanger for15-20 minutes.
Yes, we cleaned this one in hydrochloric acid too, does a great job.
Stu, the Vetus part number for the aluminum manifold, heat exchanger housing is: STM7551
It is about $800 AUS, so probably why attempting a fix makes sense.
That's without postage which would be quite a bit on a 7kg item.
Jumped back and watched again.. Great vid.. Thanks.
In Egypt the boat crews would run a rope through the mooring bridles then back to the boat that way you have more control also the option to cut it if it is going wrong in a hurry.
Good fix on the H Ex
I often need to do that on Renko because the bow is so high. It does give extra flexibility and the ability to cut as you say. I'd love to sail the Nile one day.
@@DangarMarine there are lots of folks in de nile. not a good place to be.
Nice job with the time-sent. I’ve seen guys who claim to be pros install the insert above the surface and they won’t work and of course it’s not their fault.
Hey Stu, grab yourself a rifle bore cleaner kit with various caliber brush sizes, cheap tool to mechanically clean tubes like in the heat exchanger, if you can access both ends bore snake are brilliant.
Yes, brushes like that are great to clean out a tube.
Live stream outboard repair... Keen!
Good work Stu. I like it when you think outside the box. Something you can try sometime for bolts that are subject to moisture, dip the threads in Stockholm tar
Nice repair Stu!!!!!!! Now you have to do the other one. Keep up the great work!!!
Cool vid Stu, cheers! 🍻
Wow, amazing episode! There is some “Adrian” looks in you now :)
Thanks Dan!
...busy busy,,lol,, good one, keep safe and have a great week...
Ps . Loved this video. Can wait for the starboard motor. Now you mate is trained, you should become the TA and let him do the work!
I filmed a video recently (not yet edited) where the friend did the work and I guided. Thinking of doing a series of vids like that.
I found the epoxy let go on my old ford heat exchanger after a season. Your prep was better than mine though. I've marinized a pair of Cummins truck engines on my channel. Used mani-headers and separate head exchangers, I think that is a much cheaper option if you have to replace the vetus ones.
I agree a set of separate headers and heat exchangers is probably a better way to go, there is no problem with space on this boat. I'll check out your marinisation vids!
thanks again.
For once my notification did there job, good work there sir.
Awesome, thank you!
Nice. Must admit I was sceptical about the repair. Looks good, though.
RTV, brilliant stuff, but has been the death of many engines sealing where it shouldn't. Good to see you using it very sparingly.
I guess from the discussion that this has a wet exhaust.
Yes, you definitely need to make sure it doesn't migrate into places it shouldn't be.
Thanks again....My friend...Cheers
Stu I saw the recessed lip of hole where the thermostat went and thought it might go under the gasket? André
What I'd give for a few days on the water in that glorious weather. UK so depressing this time of year.
Hope the video helped a little bit.
I will watch the live stream of the outboard engine diagnosis and fix, Stu. Let us know when that will be aired.
Will do!
well done
enjoyable video thanks!
Our pleasure!
Tip for at 27.45 if you can’t find the hole, try putting a bit of hair round it, that usually helps.
Keep them coming! Love the content!
Tan me hide when I’m dead Fred. Tan me hide when I’m dead. Song was stuck in my head the whole video.
Littlezero, so they tanned his hide when he died Clyde, And that’s it hanging on the wall!
Enjoyed seeing your broody hen. Chickens are funny. We got 16" of snow here- it's just melting - but our hens think it's spring. Normally, we are getting 2-3 eggs in February, but we got 18 eggs yesterday, out of 21 hens. The kicker is that half of them are old and stopped laying years ago. That's crazy. Seeing blue and green and pink and spotted eggs again. The old girls still have a few left when they feel like it!
Seems like putting the remote door opener has something to do with it. Egg numbers have gone up consistently since then. Maybe they feel more secure at night? Or maybe the older hens are forced to smell the pheromones of the younger girls, and want to compete, since chickens compete at everything? Who knows, but we have lots of eggs for friends and family.
I love your videos!
Thanks mate!
Hey Stu, when you change that gasket on the thermostat, will you check to see if that thermostat goes under the gasket. I thought I saw a recessed cavity in the engine housing. I hope I'm wrong, just hate to see it crack the housing. Also might bring an extra thermostat incase I'm right and it crushed part of the flange of the thermostat. Good job on everything. Seeing you in that hull working makes me glad I don't work on boats! I would've had to cut more of the floor to get in there. Definitely deserves a beer after that!
In this episode our hero Stu takes the role of Jedi Engine Master and Pete is the Padawan...
03:20 09:30 Good see Pete taking workshop safety seriously with the appropriate 'safety thongs' for footwear :)
20:30 but ditches them on his own boat
I always find dies and tapping to create threads somehow magical - odd I know.
20:39 Stu, stainless is not as "brittle" as mild steel (it's actually quite tough). A470 grade SS bolts (probably the most common in Oz) have an ultimate strength of 700 MPa (not far below a Grade 8..8 of 800 MPa) but a much lower yield strength of 410 MPa (compared to 640 for a Grade 8.8), so SS bolts will "stretch" (elongate) for a if they are over-tightened without increasing their effective clamping force until they snap.
(Clarified for the record)
Interesting to hear. I was always told that stainless was very hard to drill and cut etc but also one of the weakest bolts you can your from a tensile strength point of view. It's often seen stainless fastners that are over tightened just shear and then almost impossible to drill out.
@@DangarMarine All my years working with SS, you find out pretty quick that SS does not like heat.....if you overheat SS by drilling etc. and cause it to "blue" it's damn near bullet proof at that point. The trick is to use very low RPM drill speed (400rpm or lower) and lots of lube. I think the grade of SS may be a factor as well
@@DangarMarine Yes, in that case the bolt has "strain hardened" past its yield point for an A470 bolt of 410 MPa up to 700 MPa when it sheared/fractured (which is actually pretty close to a Grade 8.8 (800 MPa) high strength bolt)
Nice one Stu on the repair as for daisy yep got the same as but my other chook hilary isn't paying her rent in the coop where green eggs she is old and still producing lols look forward to next vid , cheers ,shaneo, nelson ,nz
You can likely purchase aluminum plate and pipe and weld that onto the remaining metal. It will be much cheaper and if it doesn't work you could always fall back on having the piece machined. Just a thought.
Good tip!
Adrian has humbled us
Quick tip : when installing the exchanger or exhaust manifold, if you have room use studs to slide the piece on and hold the weight also they will line everything up.
Yes, swapping two of the bolts for studs would be good.
If you watch the Detroit install that comes up as an issue solved Kevin
On a boat, on an island, with a buddy, with some beers and fixing things...
Not a bad day. :)
Great episode, you're so good with engines. Looking forward to more! P.S Daisy is a legend!
She is. :)
Good Fix Round 2 Coming Up
I might've missed something, but I think the overheating engine was the one not running a thermostat? Depending on the engine and cooling system design, some engines WILL overheat without a thermostat. The coolant is moving way too fast for proper heat transfer.
Liquid to Liquid is more efficient than Liquid to Air so it is probably plugged passages in the exchanger. You are correct about coolant needing time in the radiator to shed heat and a missing thermostat can lead to overheating.
@@honorharrington4546 Ahh...my lack of boating experience is showing, again:)
@@nferraro222 The Liquid to Liquid efficiency is how the heat exchanger can be only around 3" in diameter and about 18" long. We are all here to be entertained and to learn something new. :)
Yes, the heat exchanger on the starboard side needs to have the tubes cleaned out.
. A solid flow of water should have the same conductivity as a stationary mass of water. There are many variables but none of them are enough to justify a blanket statement that some marine engines will overheat because they don't have a thermostat. An automobile is an entirely different story since the coolant needs to be held in the radiator for a longer period of time to cool down. Ipso fatso, thermostat in car aids cooling, thermostat in a boat keeps the engine warm enough to run right.
Isnt it normally thermostat then gasket followed by housing? Looked like there was a lip for the thermostat to sit in... other wise love the vids. Wish I could find one of them as a project here in the states.
I thought the same thing...
Pretty sure this is in Australia so it’s backwards and upside down. It’s how they like it down there.
possibly too many Coopers consumed during the course of the repair.
I see the problem now it was VB not Coopers
Too busy yacking to each other. 😝 I’ll swap it over when the new ones arrive and we do the starboard.
I know I have commented before. Have you ever tried Permatex "The Right Stuff"? Used it on water and rear differential on my diesel. Never a leak.
Stainless has pretty good tensile strength but low sheer point like most hi- tensile
Depends on the grade.
@@bobbuilder5362
Agreed, stainless is a very broad term, so many different grades, some grades that are classes as stainless will actually rust, some will just dull and some will always maintain shine, just an indication of the great visual differences, but when talking tensile strength, shear strength, hardnesses, so many variables including chemical makeup , cast or forged and heat treatment
@@landlifem5872 Yes it is a very broad term, so to speak in generalities is pointless.
Yippee I'll get a good night's sleep tonight..fun with Stu 😎😎
Enjoy! :)
Pressure testing a Vetus...bla bla bla haven't a clue about engines..
I watch for the Hens been a fan since they were eggs 🌷😎
If you cut the end off the heat exchanger be sure that the alum is not corroded as if you try to weld it it will explode as the salt and the alum when heated turns to hydrogen as I have had this happen to me twice and what a mess of the alum it makes.
Nice repair.
The only issue with cutting the end of the other one is it’s cast aluminum. Welding cast aluminum is rarely successful. I’d consult a welder before you have take the plunge.
I’ve never had any success welding cast aluminum’s. I can weld cast iron all day long. It’ll have to be TIG but even that is difficult.
Cheers
Jeremy K.
Thanks Jeremy. Yes, I think it is a high risk approach. So many different types of alloy mixed together.
thanks for the video ! i suspect that going the aluminum replacement machining will cost more than a replacement unit...its part of our design for throw away consumption society problem where most things are no longer serviceable,,,
Yes, I suspect you might be right.
Hey Stu, did you have any more vids of your trip south? And i hope your mate in this one stocks Renko with some good whisky, or something for all your hard work.
Do have some extra footage that I still need to edit.
Generally there is a long generally brass/ copper alloy stud that runs right through the heat exchanger to hold the end caps on, generally of course, highly dependent on make/model, personally never seen an actual thread into a heat exchanger?? Maybe I have been enlightened by this video 😜
Those ovehead reels are not quite Zane Grey era but they sure have some vintage old school cool Stu
I still need to give them a service, must get onto that. When are you coming for a fish?
Is Bunnings closer to Home Depot, Ace Hardware or Canadian Tire?
No idea!
Bunnings is the same as lowes or home depot mate. Only difference is bunnings dont sell Milwaukee brand over here private smaller shops do. Our version or canadian tire is called repco or supercheap auto. Cheers
Mate we're in Australia,,, never heard of them last 3 ,,, are they in the US?? in such case i have no idead which is closer to bunnings,,, do you have a tape measure i can borrow
As Home Depot are also here in Australia I'd say Home Depot not that's going to be of any use to you Robert.
@@stephenhunter70 where in Oz is there a home depot??
What no never seise on those exhaust bolts?
Hey Pete, wassup!
Poor Daisy does try hard with her eggs! She’s such a loveable chuck
She sure is. :)
Not sure whether the screwdriver will last longer in the metho than in the boat - please let us know
Great stuff Stu You can fix anything Ill call you when I next breakdown :)
LOL
What kind of grease are you applying to the gaskets?
Coopers given the elbow or any port in a storm?
Any port in a storm.
Stu starting to sound like Adrian now! 😀
He's a bad influence. ;)
Hey Stu, what ever happened to the second heat exchanger on Whitecrest? Did you end up fabricating the 'new' part?
Everything is still as it was after this fix. It's been running nicely but we know they will both need more attention soon. I'll keep nudging Pete to do them before he is forced to. ;)
Boxing Day 2020 seems like a lifetime away now 😩