I too am a self taught mechanic. One thing I would suggest is to stop putting nuts, bolts, and parts on top of your engine after you remove them. You are just asking to have one fall down under or in an inaccessible place in the engine or under it. I have had this happen to often to spend more time wasted looking to retrieve the item. I always use a cardboard box. Beer/soda six pack cardboard cases work great. Not to big, you can rest them like a tray on top to hold all the parts. Additionally, I often poke a small hole in the cardboard to hold the bolts in place and in order and then use a marker to write on the cardboard notes about the bolt. Or draw a diagram of where the bolts came from on the cardboard. Hope this helps!
I've done mechanic work for over 35 years, engine rebuilds, brakes bearing etc. Good job of cleaning and getting it back up and running. I don't have a boat but I do have a truck that I take out into the desert in the middle of nowhere. It's very reliable, it's a 2001 Ford F350 with the famed 7.3L International Engine in it. Most engines have certain parts that are not always locally available that are critical to run the engine. I tend to keep those parts behind the back seat of the truck to ensure if it does break down I have them right there. Like a Water Pump, Hoses, belts and certain sensors. I also keep some internal parts available along with the special tools, if they are small tools, that allow for a side of the road replacement if needed and the maintenance manual as well. So far I've never needed any of them except a belt that I had to change in a food market parking lot, 15 minutes later we were on the road again. I would imagine you keep light weight parts like Gaskets, belts, a spare injector or water pump available so if it breaks down in the middle of nowhere you can get it fixed in a day or less. Regarding the oil cooler I would have just pulled the cap ends and run a long drill bit or wire through it rather than pull the whole side of the engine off, since you saw the problem was just inside the end caps. A helpful suggestion, when putting bolts back in, that can have moisture around them, is use some Anti-Seize compound like Permatex 133A or 81343. It's made of some grease and various metals that won't corrode and makes it very easy to get the bolts and nuts back off later, it also prevents bolts from breaking off in the engine. When installing large major components on engines, heads, exhaust manifolds, pumps make sure to use the proper torque pattern with a torque wrench and the proper torque setting. That will ensure the gaskets don't blow under load. If you don't have the Torque Pattern or sequence it's usually safe to start in the middle and work your way out in a cris-cross X pattern. If you don't have a head Torque Value, small 4 cylinder Heads are usually done in two or three steps. 1st step 25ft lbs, 2nd step 50 ft lbs and the 3rd or last step is a quarter turn (90 degrees) or around 60 ft lbs. Exhaust Manifolds are usually around 12-18 ft lbs. You can convert Ft lbs to Newtons by multiplying the force by 4.448 ie 10 ft lbs X 4.448 = 44.48 Newtons. In any case always make sure and go by the book when it's available. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Filming repairs like this in tight spaces is sooooooo difficult. Camera angles, lightining, just keeping your body out of the way... Ack! Every other word out of my mouth would have been blue. For your other viewers, it's important for all of them to know: _just the act of filming this alone_ slowed the repair process down to a snail's pace. And yet you've made it look like this was merely a normal week's work. I have nothing but amazement and respect for your capable video and mechanical skills combined in this incredible segment. Well done! As always, stay safe out there!
I am a mechanic retired after 40 years and you did good ! One thing young man on your electrical connections use Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound, it will make you happy in years to come ! Carry on.
Excellent job. In case no one else commented. No grease on torqued bolts. An anti-seize product exist, it will affect the torque setting so extra care when torquing bolts down.
My tip if you want it - especially now you have the heat exchanger nice and clean. I buy the expensive stuff (Rydlyme), 5 litres should do your engine. Shut off the seacock, open up the strainer, get someone to start the engine while you pour the descaler in the strainer then shut the engine down as soon as it’s all in. Put the lid back on the strainer and leave for 8-12 hours. Do this once a year and your heat exchanger will stay looking brand new and no major strip downs with gaskets etc! I do this at the end of my season then flush the descaler out with fresh water via a hose in the strainer. I then drain my coolant and replace (you should do this every year) then pour the old coolant into the strainer same method as with the descaler. So now my raw water system spends the winter with fresh water and corrosion inhibiting antifreeze in it.
This is exactly the main reason I post these kinds of videos, rather than simply our summertime joyrides, I learn so much in the comments and no doubt so will many others too. Thank you for taking the time to share your tips and tricks with us all 🙏🙏😊
I do the same thing but use hydrochloric acid which is pretty cheap. Mix a 50-50 solution of water and acid in a bucket to give about 8 litres, disconnect the raw water inlet hose and put the end in the bucket. Run the engine until about 6 litres has been sucked up then shut off the engine. Leave for about 90 minutes. Restart the engine and suck the remainder in and leave for another 30 minutes. Reconnect the raw water to the strainer and run the engine. If you watch the exhaust when you start the engine the second and third time you will see all the green gunk spew out, very satisfying. The solution doesn't harm the impeller or hoses. A word of caution, where gloves and goggles when handling the acid and avoid breathing the fumes.
Please DO NOT pour the old coolant into the raw water system unless you plan to capture and dispose of it properly when flushing it out in the spring. It's very toxic to all kinds of marine life. I once had a tractor leak coolant and nothing grew in that spot for 10 years.
I just found your channel while watching "Sail Life" yesterday.. So Glad I did.. You have proven that the best way to afford this lifestyle is to figure it out yourself and you have done an amazing job with no fear of digging/tackling a job most would hire out and cost a fortune to pull off.. Great Job for a guy that says he's not a mechanic.. Your Mechanical ability and common sense is very good.. Great Video.. I look for to more.. Thanks for sharing.. Very inspirational..
Hey there, welcome on board, nice to have you hanging out with us 😁 I can promise you that three years ago, if you had asked me to, I wouldn’t have been able to point to a fuel filter, water pump or heat exchanger on the engine, I literally knew nothing at all. I first started out getting a Volvo penta technician over to do a ‘full service’ and I asked him if he would be ok with me watching over his shoulder and asking questions, so I could do it myself in the future. I even offered to pay him more for his troubles, but he was very cool and didn’t want any more money, and he must have spent a good bit of extra time holding my hand through the entire process. I filmed that too so I could go back and reference it, and I have serviced the engine every year since then myself. I’m so thankful to him for what he showed me, and it paved the way for me being a bit more comfortable with picking up some tools and venturing into the engine bay. It all started because I simply asked the question. ☺️ Now I watch lots of TH-cam videos about jobs I want to tackle, then I just give it a go and share it online. Over the years I have learnt by far the most from the kind souls who take the time to share their insights in the comments section. This has been a great education for me, and I hope it’s of some use to others too, and these videos can hopefully amount to more than just our holiday snaps 🙏🙏🙏😬😬⛵️⛵️⛵️
Very instructive. Speaking from the border of whether to buy an outboard-powered yacht or something bigger (and likely older and in need of costlier, more complicated maintenance), I reckon your time, bother and costs have saved me lots of all three.
I truly believe the Volvo Penta designers firstly designed the engine to be the most difficult thing to work on ,and the other lot went and found the most expensive parts on the planet.
The parts from Volvo are indeed expensive, but if your engine is out of warranty, then I’d happy days to try out the website’parts4engines’ 👌🏼 far cheaper 😬😬😬⛵️
Personally, I suspect Volvo must have hired a bunch of ex-Mazda designers and engineers. Many years ago, I learned the hard way that no matter what engine part you need to replace or access on a Mazda, even just the spark plugs, you'll need to remove 6 other items first, in order to get at it. Worst. Design. Ever.
That overheating saved you from a major fault developing ! Galvanic corrosion between aluminium & stainless steel in sea water is extremely fast & would have not only failed in use but also it would have cost you a fortune to replace the heat exchanger housing, if the engine didn't get damaged.
a bit off topic. if you’re taking on water in an emergency, depending on hoses (you might need an extension), it’s possible to close the seacock for the raw intake, disconnect the intake hose from the thruhull, and place the freed end into the intruding water, run the engine and it will suck up water
Another vote for Rydlyme, I used a litre of it with a litre of hot water pumped from a bucket and small 12v cheap whale submersible pump on my Volvo D1-30 via the sea water inlet and out through the water outlet pipe with the impeller removed. I made sure the engine was warm so that the chemical reaction was speeded up, and pumped it one hour one way and one hour the other way. You will see the bubbles showing the chemical reaction is taking place and they will slowly diminish as the complete system is totally cleaned. Have a look inside to confirm all is good, but it is magic stuff and it would have cleaned your heat exchanger in minutes. It is safe and a video is on their website showing a seashell dissolving in a puddle of it in a person's hand! Of course you had to get that end cap off to find the impeller parts, but that shouldn't be necessary in the future. But a great strip down job where you found other issues.
Great video. We had the same issues on our D2-55 and ended up in a similar situation last summer. We removed and cleaned the exhaust elbow in Cleaning vinegar (double the strength of normal but still gentle), removed both exchanger caps (our inlet was almost full of impeller bits from the PO), and we ran a drinking straw cleaning brush through each tube with the exchanger in place. And the trick for the last cap screw on the aft exchanger cap is to find a ball head Allen key. It allows about a 30 degree offset to remove the cap screw.
Really excellent video. I have not cleaned my heat exchanger yet on my small Yanmar. I change my impeller every two years with new, and to my shock - last time I changed my impeller on routine maintenance - there was one blade missing! So that blade is in there somewhere on the front face of the heat exchanger. luckily, no overheat symptoms in the engine. It does appear to be WAY easier to just pull the heat exchanger out the front side of the engine on the Yanmar. They say BETA marine engines are designed with routine future maintenance in mind. Nice job. !
Really love these tech-oriented episodes (as well as the others, of course!). For us, they help give the confidence to try things on our own without calling in an "expert", and they are always well presented and easy to follow. Thanks!
Well I hope I can give someone confidence to have a go, but the real knowledge is contained in the comments section, so my only advice would be to be sure to read through them before picking the tools up 🙏🙏😬😬⛵️
I did this on my D2-40s. Although I eventually removed the heat exchanger to allow for some welding, I found that you can successfully remove any build up of scale in the cartridge by using a piece of copper multistrand wire. When you have stripped a short length with the strands folded back over the PVC. Use as a pipecleaner inside the tubes without removing the cartridge. All in all, as you say, best avoid removing the heat exchanger if you can. For the exhaust elbow, I used a high temperature silicone gasket maker to insulate the elbow/heat exchanger from the (conducting) gasket and consequent galvanic corrosion. Seems to be working 6 years later.
@@CadohaAdventures I just added a bit on the galvanic corrosion too! :) On my engines, the intake from the raw water pump is relatively easily accessible, so you can check for rubber detritis and run your copper pipe cleaner through at the same time each season.
Thank you very much for ensuring that I *_never_* even consider replacing our boat's engine with one from Volvo. It's fine when the internal gubbins of an engine can't be easily accessed, but it is perverse to make it incredibly difficult to check and clean components which are _known_ to get regularly gunked-up during normal usage.
Brilliant job and really well filmed detailed. Well done and thanks. Not bad for a non-mechanic! Can't understand why the engine manufacturers make it so difficult to do basic engine maintenance, but seems fairly typical in my experience. I note most of the comments have already been made, like which way round the rear cover plate should fit, it looked correct from what I could see. Other comments are always worth seeing, everyday is a school day as you say. Also note Mads and others have moved their Volvo black electronic control box away from the engine block. I really enjoy all your videos, particularly it's great to see the variety of cruising life, including the boat maintenance and your sense of humour. Boats don't always perform perfectly and it's great to see how you deal with them. (That's often what makes them interesting)! Keep it up!!
Gosh as a canal boater and future sail boater, this video really has been an amazing lesson!! A++ I've learn more in 12min so far than most of diesel books ive read.
Ha ha, well I hope that is 12 minutes of reading the comments for your learning more so than watching me fumble around trying to figure it out 🤣 Remember I’m really, seriously no expert in mechanics or engines, just a guy trying to figure stuff out and sharing how it goes, warts and all. I learn so much from everyone’s feedback, that’s 1000x more valuable than anything I say or do in the videos 🙏⛵️😁
Even for someone who DOES think they have good mech eng skills, this is a pretty heavy and long job, dissembling so much, but what a brilliant result. Huge congrats and a job very nicely done. The toilet brush holder was an idea of genius 😊
Ha ha, well I'm just glad the engine all went back together and had worked as it should after I pulled so much apart. I feel that was more luck than judgment though 🤣
Great job Dom. I feel your pain of having to half dismantle the engine just to replace or service another part of the engine. My Volvo Penta is a 2020B and I had overheating which I thought was the thermostat. To get to that I would have had to remove heat exchanger and many other ancillaries. Annoys me engines, including car engines, don’t seem to build in ease of maintenance. My issue turned out to be a blockage to the water inlet in the hull. It was fine low revs but as more water was required. The fouling on the hull was sucked over the inlet. Worth checking that if you haven’t recently. I went on the scrubbing piles at Emsworth and scrubbed the hull at low water. Cost £20, you guys should give it a try as it saves a huge lift out fee. Itchenor has a jet wash you can hire too. Give me a shout if you want a hand with it but I expect there is a scrubbing grid in Southampton Water somewhere. I’m a big fan of those ratchet spanner’s, they save many frustrating hours of getting an open ended spanner in tight spaces. Loved the gentle lounge music in the background. Good to see you on Mads channel and that your travels are not too far away. I’ve ranted on enough now lol. Andy UK
Hey, Andy, yes I hadn't even considered a partial blockage at the hull end of the system, which is odd when you think we had a blockage there right back when we first started on this little adventure, so thank for the reminder! We did see some drying out piles on the Hamble river that we were tempted to brave once, but we never did in the end. Certainly does sound like quite the saving though 😍
Great episode Dom, I do this on heat exchangers onboard marine vessels and offshore rigs. Mainly for biosecurity issues but also efficiency. I was glad to see you didn't dive straight in for the expensive de-scalers. They're great if time is an issue but if not all you need is a little acidity and patience. Clean as a whistle by the end mate so top job!
After watching this, I am grateful for my Beta Marina 20. I had an over heating alarm last summer and when safely back in port, traced the issue to a small barnacle in the heat exchanger. It was a pain but nothing compared to the challenge on your Volvo. Well done for getting it done. Hopefully yours is good for a few more years.
I’m also glad to hear yours isn’t as much work and here’s for hoping we’re good for a while. Although knowing old boats, it’ll be something else instead either way 🤣🤣🤣⛵️
"Everything, and I mean everything, that *could* be in the way *is* in the way". Yep. That has been my experience, forever. i would not have replaced the gasket, but used a smear of the best gasket sealer you have access to in your area. And the manual will give you torque reading for those 12mm studs/bolts (20 ft/lbs, from memory) so a torque wrench will be a great addition to the kit. Great work.
Hi Mate. D2-55 Heat exchanger matrix will come out the front of the engine. No need to remove the header from the engine. You can clean it in situ by removing just one end cap. But the method is top secret, I could tell you but..... Get yourself some anti-seize paste for those bolts and torque them to the correct value. Great to see you gaining skills. BTW you got a big shout out last week from us. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid.
Unless I’m missing something there no way that cylinder could come out the front? There’s a lip on the back that stopped it coming out, that’s why I transitioned to taking it out the back.
@@CadohaAdventures Hı mate, I could tell you but I would have to kill you It was a a wınd up... 🤣 I've just helped a fellow sailor with late series D2-55 2019 It was a pıg! Rather than remove the heat exchanger core I removed the end caps and took a look. No ımpellor parts but plenty of small shells! Cleaned ıt wıth a shop vac and 24 hours of week murıc acıd. Good flush through and thıngs are OK. We dıd fınd more shells ın the drıve leg too. But the raw water fılter was fıne! Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Next time you have to clean your heat exchanger. I believe a.22 rifle Barrel cleaning brush and rod might fit through the tubes, I remember another sailor somewhere having used one.
Well done on your fix. I read through all the comments and learned things too , you tube is great for this alone. Unmentioned in the comments is that solid copper gets work hardened in use. So solid copper gaskets don't reseal that well. However if the copper is heated , with a plumbers gas torch usually , and then cooled in water , the copper is good for reuse . This is called annealing . the copper is softened and will seal better for it . I learnt this trick when I fixed my Norton motorbike cylinder head which used a copper head gasket ; I never had to buy a new gasket ! Love your channel for the sailing , the visits , the fixes and yourselves . Thank you so much . Dave
I'm not a mechanic either, but I have some experience, and you seemed to have done a nice job! Now someone else can use YOUR video to learn how to take his Volvo engine heat exchanger apart. Check your bolt and nut tightness after 20 or so hours on the engine to make sure they aren't loosening. If you have a heat gun or hair drier, you can also apply a little heat to your hose ends to make them a little easier to pull off instead of risking nicking or tearing them prying with a screwdriver. If you have to scrape old gaskets off, and have to touch up the facing, use a woodblock with fine sandpaper to get as flat a surface as is feasible. The only place that is critical is on high compression seals as on your cylinder head. The thicker the gasket is for a mating surface, the less pressure it should be encountering. Cylinder head gaskets are frequently made of thin steel. This was a good project to have everyone else off the boat! I cut my hair short a couple of days ago and sit here watching your video with my knit cap on keeping my head warm!
Appreciate the tip there, Brian. I’m going to get some torque wrenches and check them all for equal tension and will be sure to check at regular intervals. Several people have highlighted the importance of that to me now, so best not ignore the wisdom being shared 🙏🙏😁⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures Also if you are tightening or loosening bolts around the high compression cylinders there will also be a designated pattern and technique for doing so, even to the point of loosening them after you tighten them and then retightening across the pattern. It's all to help ensure the head is taken down evenly so it doesn't warp.
@@bdphourde I’m trying to find details of this in the D2-55 manual but can’t seem to find any reference to a sequence of tightening the bolts? Any ideas where else to look?
@@CadohaAdventures If you can't find anything specific for a Volvo of your type, check in a generic diesel engine manual or search it on line or ask a mechanic in a boat or truck engine shop. But the torque settings will need to be specific to your D2-55. I will look also. That is just for the cylinder head bolts. Try this one: th-cam.com/video/5WHBskK_F3o/w-d-xo.html . It is shown on a Honda engine but the procedures are similar and it has pretty good procedures. Sorry, he speaks American English, I hope you can understand it. ;) There were a couple of comment tips worth reading on it. One cautions against using a wire wheel to clean the threads instead of a fine wire brush, and the other is to use a small rubber hose extension on the blower used to blow out the bolt holes, so you blow from the bottom of the hole upwards. My tip to add would be to use a thick bearing grease on the bolt threads, instead of just oil, before screwing them in. The load-bearing surfaces of the threads are an inclined plane that allows passage easier with proper lubrication. I think oil was too thin and you could hear the two bolts on the right side of the head squeaking as they got tight. Also a sturdy lube on the threads facilitates an easier loosening of the bolt when it needs to come out. The exception to this is on the exhaust manifold bolts. They get so hot as to burn off any lubricant and they get very dry and stick a LOT! It may not occur as much in a Marine diesel as the exhausts are cooled by water and not air. A last tip would be to always get a bolt started with your fingers several turns to ensure it isn't being cross-threaded, especially if you use a power tool to take them down to 'snug'. This also applies to wheel lugs on a vehicle where air wrenches are used to put them on. I have had them cross-threaded by the shop and then if you have a flat and need to change it out on the side of the M-1 at night in a thunderstorm on a holiday weekend, you will never get it off!
@@bdphourde I really appreciate this and will check that video out. I was looking at all tension settings on page 102 of this manual and didn’t see anything specifically for the coolant tank, unless it has another name that I’ve misses? www.eddievan.com/documents/engine/volvopenta/d2-55workshopmanual.pdf
Totally awesome vlog really enjoyed it, I am a mechanic and I thought u did a great job, so good to see u really clean the parts before reassembling, many tend to gloss over it but it's actually very important also don't be shy with the marine grease, or gasket sealant ok. Thanks for sharing hope Family are well. 🇦🇺💛💙
Well that does make me feel better about it. There's already been so much amazing feedback and constructive criticism that I feel I've learned a ton from, so much so that I'll be making a few tweaks before setting off. Thanks for your input too, it really makes putting these videos together so worthwhile 🙏🏻😁⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures Mate ur such a nice bloke it's a pleasure. My Grandfathers toolbox consisted of a hammer and a lump of wood. 🇦🇺 that's Aussies for ya. 😂
Our Beta 30 allows easy access to both ends of the heat exchanger, the alternator requires to be loosened off as yours does, but other than that the tube stack slides right out of either end. The end caps are held on with 3 Allen bolts, the one at the exhaust elbow end is a bit of a pain though. Because it's a simple one hour job we strip it and clean it out every year....Congratulations on a job well done....and very well explained...
I’m sure envious of your being able to tackle the job so easily. Although many have said that in some ways I’m lucky, as I have three large points of access which makes things easier than for some 😬🙏⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures Sorry, I should have said, we also have 3 points of entry, trying to do it from the front alone with no side access would be much more problematic....again, a great video..
Dom, you have surprised me once again. Your ability to learn and engage these mechanical chores is amazing and well worth "Congratulations". Job well done!
Great video, very detailed. On my end I use Barnacle Buster and back flush my engines, that way i get most impeller parts back in my bucket if there are any loose ones in there.
Love your positive attitude towards a difficult undertaking. Nothing more satisfying than finishing a complicated process having the proper tools and know how and cost cutting along the way!! Excellent
Overheating. Start with the thruhull, then sea strainer, impellor, wear plate then, like you did, heat exchanger. If all that doesn't solve the issue, make sure your prop is not over pitched. It will show up when pushing the engine hard and can do some serious damage to your engine. You should be able to make about 80% of your max revs in neutral when in gear and motoring in flat water with little or no current. Great job on your repair.
@@DScottDay Inside a raw water pump is a half moon ish shaped piece of metal which attaches to the pump body via a screw. It's purpose is to put the impellor fins into the proper "bend" to enable it to move the water coming in and propel it onward through the cooling system(raw water side). They can wear over time and then the impellor could be damaged or the pump will loose it's ability to move the water effectively.
@@petercaras3696 Peter, you aren't talking about the "key" in the impeller, are you? Having just changed the water pump with a $1,000 Westerbeke monopoly event, I just greased it and plan on not thinking ab out it, what with everything else that needs attention. Thanks. DD
Its the only way to learn. Know your engine. Have the tools. Looking at the exchanger/impeller condition you may have been able to get away with just an impeller change. The other thing is that if the external cooling sea water goes through the internal parts of the tubes of the exchanger it might be easier to reverse flush any debris using extension hoses and external pump rather than taking many parts down to do the job. The engine cooling if containing antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor should be pretty clear. Still you learnt a lot of info, provided a lot and did it very professionally. Well done.
@@CadohaAdventures I enjoyed it. I built up a twin cylinder 9.7 hpsabre marine, very similar to the small Penta. This engine was developed as a replacement for the Citroen 2CV petrol engine but it didn't meet the 10hp spec so the whole run was rejected and they were sold off. I always wanted a diesel for my 22' Intro but the marine versions were way beyond my budget. One day a guy at the boat yard said I have one for £600. Bit his hand off. Built it up in my garage and designed the mounts from physical dimensions and photos via a computer graphics package. Got the gear box from a breakers yard and had the flywheel modified. Been running well for seven years then Covid hit. Sadly now I am no longer fit enough to sail but it's nice to reminisce. Enjoy your sailing. Just reviewed your original video and it seems to confirm my thoughts that the external surfaces were fairly clean which means that the engine coolant was not the factor to the overheating. If it did not leak out after the end caps were removed then you may well have not needed to remove the manifold jacket but you learnt a lot. It might be worth while to get a life span value on the £1500 exchanger. That would give you a target date for full strip down. As mentioned earlier mine has been ok for seven years. The only other bit of info I can offer is to check the Woodruff key on the prop. It was phosphor bronze on a steel shaft. Somehow it sheared and I lost £700 prop. Bye
What an amazing video. I don't own a sailboat yet.. but seeing how involved this fix had to be really was an eye opener. Like yourself, I have zero (engine) mechanical experience. Respect to you, sir!
Wonderful job Mate, If your familiar with aviation this type of maintenance is done every 100hrs . I chose to do this maintenance every 300hrs . Impeller & Heat Exchanger at the same time . It will keep your engine happy, not barking at you with alarms . And using sea foam in your fuel tank along with seafoam when changing fuel filters which keep your injectors clean . Steady as she goes 👍
Great job indeed. I have to do mine sooner than later, I am on lake Champlain Vermont USA. This year I ran the engine dry ( boat was on its cradle ) for ten minutes to get the oil a little warn for oil change. Little did I know that by leaving the impeller in and running dry, all the blades would break up and end up in the heat exchanger... so I need to do that job now where the space is even smaller to work :( Thanks for the video. Cheer mate.
I honestly cannot believe how hard checking that heat exchanger on the Volvo. On my westerbeke the heat exchanger is external to the engine and super easy to check !! Wow kudos to your determination tearing the whole engine appart !!
Hi Eduardo. I'm into my Westerbeke 46 (30 years old, under 3000 hours) but looking at the exhaust manifold, wanting to clean and paint it I'm worried, having removed the bolts, broken one, and preparing to pry the manifold from the engine block that I may break something. Any advice? Have you ever removed the exhaust manifold from the engine block? thanks, D Day, Maine
@@DScottDay your fears are well founded ! My 58 is 40 years old 2600 hours and every time I pull a part (fresh water pump, exhaust elbow, etc invariably one bolt will brake or some screw will strip. It is definitively a risk so I have learned to look at the cost of the piece before I take it out and if it is too much I will switch to reactive repair only 😇
@@eduardoacosta6199 Speaking of Exhaust Elbow: This may be the deal-killer for me. With bolts out and only one broken (and that at the head, no real issue) and the manifold showing No Chance in Hell to move, I look at the Exhaust elbow and think: how do i ever move that? The clamp on it with nut off shows no sign of releasing, but then there's the real issue of the elbow. If I soak that for a year I think it ain't moving.?
@@DScottDay so to check the exhaust elbow you have to remove a portion of the heat exchanger in my case with the 58 it wasn’t a huge deal but a little corner of the exchanger piece did brake off. So yeah they are low time engines but still old so you got to assume those proactive checks could come at a cost but usually the reward is worth it in my case my elbow turned out to be totally clean and same thing with my fresh water pump but I feel better knowing that
Thursday afternoon in Brisbane, Australia. I needed a set of parts for our wonderful Perkins sorry Volvo Penta. Several parts were not available and I was quoted delivery prices from Melbourne due the following week, on Friday (long weekend mate, etc). I called Parts 4 Engines on Thursday at 8:00 PM. They had the whole set and said they'd post them right now. A short time later around 10:30 PM Brisbane time, an email said my parts were at Manchester Airport. On Monday 8:30 AM, I got an email saying the parts were in Sydney. I thought this was just a cruel joke. Tuesday morning they were on my doorstep at 7:30 AM. 4 days earlier than I could get them here in Australia. Don't ask me about how much money I saved, but you do know we don't pay your 20% VAT on exported goods.
Two things for future reference: 1. The videos and pictures are good but what if your computer gets wet and you need to do a repair and put it back as it was? After years as a diesel/automotive technician I’ve learned to use either a punch/cold chisel/ letter stamp set to mark the parts so I can just match the marks when reassembling. If time allows you can even use a marker/tape/puff paint. 1. That gasket that broke… they can be reused if you grease one side so it doesn’t stick to the metal. The grease will do two things, it will prevent it from sticking to the metal and help it seal because it helps the gasket to completely form itself to the metal surface.
I’ll let you in to a a little secret, I’m not very patient at all, in fact I’m pretty far from patient and a bit hot headed when things aren’t going my way (mount Everest of understatements 😬). Thank goodness for video editing though. 😇😬😇
A forgotten part if the cooling system is the thermostat , which is on top of the engine most times. It can be stuck open most times , or doesn't open completly. You can check it just by putting it in boiled water. Thermostats wear out , when in doubt ...change it! Nice video , Greetz John.
When you put in boiling water, what exactly is the desired result? Are there different specs for these or just open or shut? Thanks! ... Appreciate the video.
Use magnets to hold bolts together or to pull out unscrewed ones. Stainless steel doesn't rust also. It's what I use and do. Use it when applicable, efficiently and safe.
You've done a STERLING JOB mate for a DYI effort 👌 as someone who is setting my sights on Motor Yacht ownership in a few years these videos are priceless! 😊
@@CadohaAdventures just bought a Hunter Legend 41, currently going through the pain barrier of finding all those things the surveyor doesn’t find. This weekend will be spent mainly replacing the the heads waste pipe. Can’t wait.
I’ve cleaned countless Volvo Penta heat exchangers over the years. Their 2000 series engines coolant plumbing piping will virtually always leak regardless of effort to seal. A real shame. Get yourself a Skandvik (or equivalent) flexible shaft nut driver sized for the ABA SS hose clamps installed. They are extremely handy.
Thanks for this video, very helpful as I am in the middle of doing this on a D2-55A......while the HE element on my engine comes out in the other direction, its actually much to do once you pull the whole assembly off as per this video.......kind a crazy for a regular maintenance item as noted but there you go. Pretty sure I'm the first to do this on our engine's 1300 hours/20 year life and hopefully will be good for many years to come with scheduled coolant changes.
Thank you for this really informative record. Subscribed. Just the right level of detail to be a useful guide for all of us in the 'more challenged' group. You have a crazy amount of patience - I would have been swearing so much and so loud ... yours is a humbling instruction. Thumbs up for ratchet spanners but don't forget the lowly and largely forgotten Box Spanner - cheap, light, no moving parts (destroyed by salt) and can get you out of many jambs.
This video was loosely based on a true story. In the full directors cut there was plenty of swearing and crying taking place, but. we didn't want the video to be too long 😂😂😬⛵️
with my yanmar 30hp, to clean the heat exchanger pipe i use a .177 gun cleaning rod with the brass brush, worked a treat and cleaned the pipes nicely, i placed a little oil on the o-rings while installing them, engine runs at correct temps now
I liked this video very much, very useful, and inspiring: Going through the process of "removing one small bit after another for access before finally realising it is easier to just remove the whole damn assembly" is exactly the process I used :) My tube assembly, on a Lombardini LDW 502, was "welded" in there and wouldn't come out at all. One cannot force it too much because it is all brass and super-soft aluminum, eager to be scratched up and never seal again. After a day of struggle, I took the assembly out, it's only four hoses and four screws, got it home to the workshop. It literally popped apart in 10 minutes with no forcing required because now one could work at it from all sides. Lombardini recommends using a 10% solution of muriatic acid in water at 50 degrees centigrade temperature for the descaling. Takes about 15 minutes to do. I also replaced all the O-rings in there, since they are probably about 20 years old by now.
We use antiseeze between gaskets and the surfaces. Makes gasket removal a breeze. You don't need to scrape surfaces when using the high temp stuff. Also it protects screw threads from welding them selves to the cast metals.
Just something to note. The rotation of the heat exchanger needs to match up with the rotation of your end cap. If you noticed that the cap with the hoses on it that had all the impeller remnants had a slit separating it into two halves? That slit needs to line up with the slit where there are no holes on your heat exchanger.
I recently had to do the exact job on a Vetus. I was tearing my hair out after having gone through everything, inlet seacock strainer, inline strainer, raw water impellor and finally the heat exchanger. The whole time I had good water flow out the exhaust. Luckily getting the heat exchanger out was a whole lot easier. Whilst there was quite a lot of marine growth on the salt water side, and I though that this must be it, a good clean out didn't solve the problem. An IR thermometer showed the max temp anywhere on the engine was only getting to 60 Deg C. The Temp Sender unit was only getting to 50 Deg C and still the alarm was blaring withing minutes of starting the engine. Not even enough time to get it warm. Eventually discussion with the Agent revealed that some of the temp sensors on certain models where know to be oversensitive. Replacement of temp sensor is the next step... I am really glad my heat exchanger is so much easier to get to. Nice video. Looking forward to your battle test.
Great job Dom, especially with limited experience. There is a coolant drain plug near the bottom of the engine which you can attach a hose and drain. Be careful with the ratchet spanner. If you undo a nut and there is not enough room at the end to get the ratchet out due to a short bolt, then your ratchet and bolt are stuck. Solution is to cut (hacksaw) the bolt and may not have enough room for a nut. The sensor you put grease on before connecting on the side of the engine was a electric conducting grease I hope. Most grease is not. My volvo penta (different models) heat exchangers had one small hole half way along which needed to be at the top. Did you see a small hole? If not then they have changed the design. Recheck your bolts and nuts with correct torque after 5 or ten hours use then you can relax as you have done a very good, careful job. André in Sydney.
Gasket surfaces can be kept very clean and flat without scratches by taking a properly sized pain of glas (cut it to size in order to cover just one or even beter two or three smaller gasket surfaces at the same time or just cover just one big one) glueing on some very very fine 1200 grid sandpaper and sanding of glue and other residue with the extremely flat glas sanding surface just using the glass pain/ piece as a sanding board. If the part lets you it’s also practical to lay down the sandpaper glued on glass and to move the part instead of the sanding board/ glass.
Great video, I'd never seen a coolant/seawater cooling system but it looked like you'd been working on engines for years. I had a penta gasoline engine in a smaller boat and would have loved to have that much room to access the motor. I had to change the thermostat about once a year and I would have replaced the coolant hoses while you had them off. They are prone to failure but fairly inexpensive. I'd recommend getting a set and keeping them on board
Really useful- thanks. I have a VP D1-20 & had an overheating problem. We tried lots, in the end we figured out it had to be the heat exchanger. We couldn’t get the tubes out so decided to acid them in situ. We used Red Lyme from Amazon & left it soaking in situ for a week. That was a couple of years ago-alls good
EASY WAY!! I shut off the engine sea cock with the engine running, stop the engine as soon as sea water stops coming out of the exhaust. Open the strainer and get your assistant to start the engine while you fill the strainer with white vinegar. As soon as stuff comes out the exhaust stop the engine, replace strainer and wait a few days...... to finish, just open the engine sea cock, start the engine and admire all the calcium deposits leaving your exhaust. Obviously doesn't deal with bits of impeller;) but you can get to those easily enough. My md22l takes just over 4 liters of white vinegar. Great videos !
Great job on the engine work just a tip on set belt tension you only want to make the belt tight enough that you can twist the belt 90 degrees. Any more then that and you can wear out the bearings in the alternator and pump.
Loving your videos! You explain things and show it all so well. Very complicated and I know the feeling of going to take one thing off then realising you have to move so many other things.. one thought I had, can you put an anode somewhere in the exhaust manifold or the exhaust elbow to stop the corrosion. I feel like I saw that somewhere...
You're not the first person to mention heating it up, so I think that's certainly something I'm taking away with me for the next time I tackle something similar. Thanks for sharing 🙏🏻😁
Your video is very logical and will give lots of confidence in doing the same maintenance to me and lots of other boat owners the basics are pritywell all the same I have a pair of Tam 41 6 cylinder straight six turbo diesel engines in my searay 310 sundander sports boat here in sydney australia volvo being a common marine engine all videos people make is a great help to all boat owners and for sure helps to keep maintenance bills to a realistic cost from a labour point of view well done mate 👍 keep the videos coming how about a few more videos on my engines from somebody happy boating everybody ps enybody got a princess 45 flybridge for sale around 1990s as that's my next boat happy days to all boaters 😊
great work Dom if you were to go over to someone else boat with the same penta you'd probably finish the job in a few hours cause you now know where to go and what you need
I’m sure I could indeed do it much quicker now I know what to expect, and I think I’d likely do a better job now for having read so many amazingly helpful comments here 🙏😁
Try using a small 90 degree pick tool to break those seals - easier than a screw driver and maybe less chance of splitting the hose. Really good video.
Brilliant video. I'm amazed how professional you are given what you say is limited experience. I'm not very good at this and would have been terrified as you took off more and more parts on getting it back together. I did a similar job on my Kubota/Nanni 22hp. Everything so much more accessible than Volvo. You truly did it the hard way. Thanks for sharing. I have to do a main engine oil seal next week and the engine has to come out to get to it. I'm more confident now and insoired.....cheers!
Matthew, I won’t lie, I was starting to get nervous at about the half way point and was very careful laying out all the bits in order, so I could ‘simply’ reverse what I did, possibly with the help of the videos I had recorded. I haven’t fully pressure tested it out in the wild yet, so there’s time still yet for me to regret my efforts, although I hope not 🙏🤣⛵️⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures I would.be very confident your work is good My exchanger core exit hole was the size of a 5 pence piece it was so calcified. Perhaps double hose clamp if you are worried. Why trust one!
Good work Dom.... and not one single swear word lol....Just a thought for the next time you check it. Get a air rifle cleaning kit. It has some fab long cleaning brushes that would fit in your cooling tubes. That way you wouldn't have to do a full strip down. Maybe check both end caps after 25-30 hrs engine run time just to see how clean it is. Take care bud ⛵👍
Appreciate that, Vince, cleaning it in situ does sounds like a much better option than a full dismantle again. I can assure you there was plenty of swearing, which is why I'm thankful that I have full editorial control over the video production 🤣
@@CadohaAdventures always fees good when you complete a tough job and sit back satisfied. Thanks for your videos, we both really enjoy them. Completing day skipper and competent crew this year but don't have the balls to buy a boat, flotilla hols for us. ⛵⛵ Dave and Tracy
Hi There are compounds that you can use to help stop the Dissimilar metal corrosion electrolyse JC -5 is good or just a high temp gasket compound applied lightly plus another good cleaner that is cheap and good for Brass and copper Coke a Cola
@@CadohaAdventures And, like you intimated, there was possibly a design flaw in not being able to take it out the other end. Incidentally, did you check to see if it was reversible for that purpose?
New subscriber from Sail Life here. I paused the video at the 18:00 minute mark to shout into my phone. MAKE SURE YOU SWEEP OVER EVERYTHING WITH A MAGNET BEFORE YOU BUTTON THINGS UP! That rotary wire brush WILL leave bits of wire in your engine. It WILL damage things. Back to the video …
I just keep trawling through TH-cam videos each time I get stuck and thankfully there's always a video out there tackling the thing that has me stumped. I'd be lost without TH-cam 😂
Thanks for this video. I’ve got a d2-55A and there are a number of detail differences. However, it looks like it’s probably best to take the heat exchanger out in one lump before fiddling about trying to get the matrix out. Mine doesn’t overheat but emits steam from the exhaust.
three suggestions. First, get a small wet/oil stone which you can use to prep gasket surfaces. It will remove any material such as metal burrs or gasket/sealant that you failed to remove with the razor. Second, it's best to apply sealant to both surfaces to get the best possible seal. Finally, try to fit the gasket hole to the port by removing any excess gasket material to improve flow.
Dom, awesome job! I too became a diy outboard mechanic on an old 85hp Mercury on the back of my boat....My best, most. helpful purchase for it was a ratchet spanner too!! Can't wait to see you guys get back up and cruising soon!. Its been great seeing your cruising/ journey so far. Especially enjoyed the sailing around the Sou west and Scillies...Use to call Falmouth home until I left for NZ years ago..Was a nice way to re-visit the place through your videos, which perfectly capture the pure essence of the sights and sounds. Love your enthusiasm for the English countryside and the coastline.too..Just need an aroma control for a full experience!! . Happy boat life and sailing to you three!! Cheers Rob in NZ!
Well I say that you've done a pretty good job especially in a tight space like that and also I think it's amazing how much you care about the corrosion some people would never even think about fixing it good on you. For giving it a go as you will never know how to fix it if you do not try. That's how I learned to fix cars. And having gloves on is more of a a pain because there always breaking so its more of a mess to clean up at the end I also like to feel the things I work on because a lot of the time you can't see what it is you working on. But I do not judge we're gloves if you wish as it's your own choice.
All I know about heat exchanger units is that it is a very hard, and expensive job. That was some of the most informative video I have seen on the task, as it was at my level, and gives me the confidence that with a bit of time and forethought I too could do more on my boat myself. Well done big man - sh*t hair cut, though.
Hi - great video - we are in the process of doing the identical job and I have a question. Is there a specific direction that the cooling tubes assembly comes out, or can you "hammer" it out from either side of the heat exchanger? Thank you!
On our boat, sadly there was only one way it could come out (aft) which is what led to this being such a huge job in the end. If it could have come out forward then it would have been far easier to do the job. 😬
It does feel very satisfying to make a grubby old engine feel a bit spruced up again. My argument is that it also makes spotting potential issues much easier in the future too 🙏😁
You got off lightly, we had the same old bits of impeller problem on our D2-55A left over from previous owner. In our case we also gave the engine some max revs in an emergency situation, while being pushed towards some rocks in heavy weather, and nightmare, the hose blew off the heat exchanger inlet. The first we knew of it was the bilge pump alarm. The bilge filling up before the engine overheated. We stuck the hose back on and slowly went into the nearest marina. As suggested in another comment on version A you can get to the front of the pipes from the front, so we easily got the old bits out. To stop this happening again I fitted a strainer between the pump and the cooler inlet. A common practice on big power boats. The corrosion problem also happened to us with our original steel exhaust elbow, but second nightmare it corroded through the side of the exchanger, letting exhaust fumes into the boat. We needed a new exchanger, £5k later and a new version F cooler. all is good again. After much discussion with local Volvo dealer I fitted a fresh water flushing system on the inlet to the raw water strainer, simple Y valve and a mixer tank in the aft locker. We now always flush the seawater out of the system after every sail. There is a Volvo flushing kit sold in the US, at the usual Volvo price, nut my version is better and much cheaper. A few other Volve Penta owners in our marina have copied this idea as a preventative measure.
Wowzers, so many tales of caution for all of us to learn from there, so seriously thanks for sharing. I really like the sound of the flushing system, that corrosion is kind of concerning 😕😕😕
It was one of those things I had never done before and didn’t realise that it was going to be such a huge job. Every video I had watched with other people doing it made it look so easy 🤣
![Saildrive Diaphragm Replacement | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o_Bv7_tAOY4/mqdefault.jpg)
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I too am a self taught mechanic. One thing I would suggest is to stop putting nuts, bolts, and parts on top of your engine after you remove them. You are just asking to have one fall down under or in an inaccessible place in the engine or under it. I have had this happen to often to spend more time wasted looking to retrieve the item. I always use a cardboard box. Beer/soda six pack cardboard cases work great. Not to big, you can rest them like a tray on top to hold all the parts. Additionally, I often poke a small hole in the cardboard to hold the bolts in place and in order and then use a marker to write on the cardboard notes about the bolt. Or draw a diagram of where the bolts came from on the cardboard. Hope this helps!
Or you can put them back in the hole if it’s appropriate. An old race car mechanic taught me that one. I’m just passing it on.
magnet on a plate are a game changer
I've done mechanic work for over 35 years, engine rebuilds, brakes bearing etc. Good job of cleaning and getting it back up and running. I don't have a boat but I do have a truck that I take out into the desert in the middle of nowhere. It's very reliable, it's a 2001 Ford F350 with the famed 7.3L International Engine in it. Most engines have certain parts that are not always locally available that are critical to run the engine. I tend to keep those parts behind the back seat of the truck to ensure if it does break down I have them right there. Like a Water Pump, Hoses, belts and certain sensors. I also keep some internal parts available along with the special tools, if they are small tools, that allow for a side of the road replacement if needed and the maintenance manual as well. So far I've never needed any of them except a belt that I had to change in a food market parking lot, 15 minutes later we were on the road again. I would imagine you keep light weight parts like Gaskets, belts, a spare injector or water pump available so if it breaks down in the middle of nowhere you can get it fixed in a day or less. Regarding the oil cooler I would have just pulled the cap ends and run a long drill bit or wire through it rather than pull the whole side of the engine off, since you saw the problem was just inside the end caps. A helpful suggestion, when putting bolts back in, that can have moisture around them, is use some Anti-Seize compound like Permatex 133A or 81343. It's made of some grease and various metals that won't corrode and makes it very easy to get the bolts and nuts back off later, it also prevents bolts from breaking off in the engine. When installing large major components on engines, heads, exhaust manifolds, pumps make sure to use the proper torque pattern with a torque wrench and the proper torque setting. That will ensure the gaskets don't blow under load. If you don't have the Torque Pattern or sequence it's usually safe to start in the middle and work your way out in a cris-cross X pattern. If you don't have a head Torque Value, small 4 cylinder Heads are usually done in two or three steps. 1st step 25ft lbs, 2nd step 50 ft lbs and the 3rd or last step is a quarter turn (90 degrees) or around 60 ft lbs. Exhaust Manifolds are usually around 12-18 ft lbs. You can convert Ft lbs to Newtons by multiplying the force by 4.448 ie 10 ft lbs X 4.448 = 44.48 Newtons. In any case always make sure and go by the book when it's available. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Filming repairs like this in tight spaces is sooooooo difficult. Camera angles, lightining, just keeping your body out of the way... Ack! Every other word out of my mouth would have been blue. For your other viewers, it's important for all of them to know: _just the act of filming this alone_ slowed the repair process down to a snail's pace. And yet you've made it look like this was merely a normal week's work. I have nothing but amazement and respect for your capable video and mechanical skills combined in this incredible segment. Well done! As always, stay safe out there!
I am a mechanic retired after 40 years and you did good ! One thing young man on your electrical connections use Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound, it will make you happy in years to come ! Carry on.
Appreciate that Vincent I’ll look into it for sure 👌🏼😬
Excellent job. In case no one else commented. No grease on torqued bolts. An anti-seize product exist, it will affect the torque setting so extra care when torquing bolts down.
My tip if you want it - especially now you have the heat exchanger nice and clean. I buy the expensive stuff (Rydlyme), 5 litres should do your engine. Shut off the seacock, open up the strainer, get someone to start the engine while you pour the descaler in the strainer then shut the engine down as soon as it’s all in. Put the lid back on the strainer and leave for 8-12 hours. Do this once a year and your heat exchanger will stay looking brand new and no major strip downs with gaskets etc! I do this at the end of my season then flush the descaler out with fresh water via a hose in the strainer. I then drain my coolant and replace (you should do this every year) then pour the old coolant into the strainer same method as with the descaler. So now my raw water system spends the winter with fresh water and corrosion inhibiting antifreeze in it.
This is exactly the main reason I post these kinds of videos, rather than simply our summertime joyrides, I learn so much in the comments and no doubt so will many others too. Thank you for taking the time to share your tips and tricks with us all 🙏🙏😊
I do the same thing but use hydrochloric acid which is pretty cheap. Mix a 50-50 solution of water and acid in a bucket to give about 8 litres, disconnect the raw water inlet hose and put the end in the bucket. Run the engine until about 6 litres has been sucked up then shut off the engine. Leave for about 90 minutes. Restart the engine and suck the remainder in and leave for another 30 minutes. Reconnect the raw water to the strainer and run the engine. If you watch the exhaust when you start the engine the second and third time you will see all the green gunk spew out, very satisfying. The solution doesn't harm the impeller or hoses. A word of caution, where gloves and goggles when handling the acid and avoid breathing the fumes.
@@CadohaAdventures give and take - I enjoy watching your videos so thank you too.
Please DO NOT pour the old coolant into the raw water system unless you plan to capture and dispose of it properly when flushing it out in the spring. It's very toxic to all kinds of marine life. I once had a tractor leak coolant and nothing grew in that spot for 10 years.
I just found your channel while watching "Sail Life" yesterday.. So Glad I did.. You have proven that the best way to afford this lifestyle is to figure it out yourself and you have done an amazing job with no fear of digging/tackling a job most would hire out and cost a fortune to pull off.. Great Job for a guy that says he's not a mechanic.. Your Mechanical ability and common sense is very good.. Great Video.. I look for to more.. Thanks for sharing.. Very inspirational..
Hey there, welcome on board, nice to have you hanging out with us 😁
I can promise you that three years ago, if you had asked me to, I wouldn’t have been able to point to a fuel filter, water pump or heat exchanger on the engine, I literally knew nothing at all.
I first started out getting a Volvo penta technician over to do a ‘full service’ and I asked him if he would be ok with me watching over his shoulder and asking questions, so I could do it myself in the future. I even offered to pay him more for his troubles, but he was very cool and didn’t want any more money, and he must have spent a good bit of extra time holding my hand through the entire process. I filmed that too so I could go back and reference it, and I have serviced the engine every year since then myself. I’m so thankful to him for what he showed me, and it paved the way for me being a bit more comfortable with picking up some tools and venturing into the engine bay. It all started because I simply asked the question. ☺️
Now I watch lots of TH-cam videos about jobs I want to tackle, then I just give it a go and share it online. Over the years I have learnt by far the most from the kind souls who take the time to share their insights in the comments section. This has been a great education for me, and I hope it’s of some use to others too, and these videos can hopefully amount to more than just our holiday snaps 🙏🙏🙏😬😬⛵️⛵️⛵️
Torque wrench. This should be your best friend when working on mechanical things. You have done a wonderful job cleaning and prepping your parts.
Very instructive. Speaking from the border of whether to buy an outboard-powered yacht or something bigger (and likely older and in need of costlier, more complicated maintenance), I reckon your time, bother and costs have saved me lots of all three.
I truly believe the Volvo Penta designers firstly designed the engine to be the most difficult thing to work on ,and the other lot went and found the most expensive parts on the planet.
The parts from Volvo are indeed expensive, but if your engine is out of warranty, then I’d happy days to try out the website’parts4engines’ 👌🏼 far cheaper 😬😬😬⛵️
Personally, I suspect Volvo must have hired a bunch of ex-Mazda designers and engineers. Many years ago, I learned the hard way that no matter what engine part you need to replace or access on a Mazda, even just the spark plugs, you'll need to remove 6 other items first, in order to get at it. Worst. Design. Ever.
Volvo Penta buys the motors from Perkins and paints them green. They do not design them by theirselves.
I did exactly the same job on my Vetus 42 hp. It took us 1 hour, including cleaning. The amount of parts to disassemble here is reticules
That overheating saved you from a major fault developing ! Galvanic corrosion between aluminium & stainless steel in sea water is extremely fast & would have not only failed in use but also it would have cost you a fortune to replace the heat exchanger housing, if the engine didn't get damaged.
a bit off topic. if you’re taking on water in an emergency, depending on hoses (you might need an extension), it’s possible to close the seacock for the raw intake, disconnect the intake hose from the thruhull, and place the freed end into the intruding water, run the engine and it will suck up water
Another vote for Rydlyme, I used a litre of it with a litre of hot water pumped from a bucket and small 12v cheap whale submersible pump on my Volvo D1-30 via the sea water inlet and out through the water outlet pipe with the impeller removed. I made sure the engine was warm so that the chemical reaction was speeded up, and pumped it one hour one way and one hour the other way. You will see the bubbles showing the chemical reaction is taking place and they will slowly diminish as the complete system is totally cleaned. Have a look inside to confirm all is good, but it is magic stuff and it would have cleaned your heat exchanger in minutes. It is safe and a video is on their website showing a seashell dissolving in a puddle of it in a person's hand! Of course you had to get that end cap off to find the impeller parts, but that shouldn't be necessary in the future. But a great strip down job where you found other issues.
That sounds awesome, now it’s all cleaned out, I am very much in favour of being able to clean it in situ next time 🙏🙏🙏🤣
Great video. We had the same issues on our D2-55 and ended up in a similar situation last summer. We removed and cleaned the exhaust elbow in Cleaning vinegar (double the strength of normal but still gentle), removed both exchanger caps (our inlet was almost full of impeller bits from the PO), and we ran a drinking straw cleaning brush through each tube with the exchanger in place. And the trick for the last cap screw on the aft exchanger cap is to find a ball head Allen key. It allows about a 30 degree offset to remove the cap screw.
Ahh great tip, I ended up cutting half the head off of an allen key to squeeze it into the gap 😬😬
Really excellent video. I have not cleaned my heat exchanger yet on my small Yanmar. I change my impeller every two years with new, and to my shock - last time I changed my impeller on routine maintenance - there was one blade missing! So that blade is in there somewhere on the front face of the heat exchanger. luckily, no overheat symptoms in the engine.
It does appear to be WAY easier to just pull the heat exchanger out the front side of the engine on the Yanmar.
They say BETA marine engines are designed with routine future maintenance in mind.
Nice job. !
Really love these tech-oriented episodes (as well as the others, of course!). For us, they help give the confidence to try things on our own without calling in an "expert", and they are always well presented and easy to follow. Thanks!
Well I hope I can give someone confidence to have a go, but the real knowledge is contained in the comments section, so my only advice would be to be sure to read through them before picking the tools up 🙏🙏😬😬⛵️
getting ready for same job.But have a hole in exchanger at exhaust elbo.😢
I did this on my D2-40s. Although I eventually removed the heat exchanger to allow for some welding, I found that you can successfully remove any build up of scale in the cartridge by using a piece of copper multistrand wire. When you have stripped a short length with the strands folded back over the PVC. Use as a pipecleaner inside the tubes without removing the cartridge. All in all, as you say, best avoid removing the heat exchanger if you can. For the exhaust elbow, I used a high temperature silicone gasket maker to insulate the elbow/heat exchanger from the (conducting) gasket and consequent galvanic corrosion. Seems to be working 6 years later.
Any insights on how to achieve the same result without having to take the whole thing apart is greatly appreciated 😬⛵️🙏
@@CadohaAdventures I just added a bit on the galvanic corrosion too! :) On my engines, the intake from the raw water pump is relatively easily accessible, so you can check for rubber detritis and run your copper pipe cleaner through at the same time each season.
Great idea. I'm on d1-30 and can't get in easily. What guage wire did you find worked well? Thanks!
Thank you very much for ensuring that I *_never_* even consider replacing our boat's engine with one from Volvo. It's fine when the internal gubbins of an engine can't be easily accessed, but it is perverse to make it incredibly difficult to check and clean components which are _known_ to get regularly gunked-up during normal usage.
Brilliant job and really well filmed detailed. Well done and thanks. Not bad for a non-mechanic! Can't understand why the engine manufacturers make it so difficult to do basic engine maintenance, but seems fairly typical in my experience. I note most of the comments have already been made, like which way round the rear cover plate should fit, it looked correct from what I could see. Other comments are always worth seeing, everyday is a school day as you say. Also note Mads and others have moved their Volvo black electronic control box away from the engine block.
I really enjoy all your videos, particularly it's great to see the variety of cruising life, including the boat maintenance and your sense of humour. Boats don't always perform perfectly and it's great to see how you deal with them. (That's often what makes them interesting)! Keep it up!!
Gosh as a canal boater and future sail boater, this video really has been an amazing lesson!! A++ I've learn more in 12min so far than most of diesel books ive read.
Ha ha, well I hope that is 12 minutes of reading the comments for your learning more so than watching me fumble around trying to figure it out 🤣
Remember I’m really, seriously no expert in mechanics or engines, just a guy trying to figure stuff out and sharing how it goes, warts and all.
I learn so much from everyone’s feedback, that’s 1000x more valuable than anything I say or do in the videos 🙏⛵️😁
Even for someone who DOES think they have good mech eng skills, this is a pretty heavy and long job, dissembling so much, but what a brilliant result. Huge congrats and a job very nicely done. The toilet brush holder was an idea of genius 😊
Ha ha, well I'm just glad the engine all went back together and had worked as it should after I pulled so much apart. I feel that was more luck than judgment though 🤣
It was a nice job well done @@CadohaAdventures 🙂
Great job Dom. I feel your pain of having to half dismantle the engine just to replace or service another part of the engine. My Volvo Penta is a 2020B and I had overheating which I thought was the thermostat. To get to that I would have had to remove heat exchanger and many other ancillaries. Annoys me engines, including car engines, don’t seem to build in ease of maintenance. My issue turned out to be a blockage to the water inlet in the hull. It was fine low revs but as more water was required. The fouling on the hull was sucked over the inlet. Worth checking that if you haven’t recently. I went on the scrubbing piles at Emsworth and scrubbed the hull at low water. Cost £20, you guys should give it a try as it saves a huge lift out fee. Itchenor has a jet wash you can hire too. Give me a shout if you want a hand with it but I expect there is a scrubbing grid in Southampton Water somewhere. I’m a big fan of those ratchet spanner’s, they save many frustrating hours of getting an open ended spanner in tight spaces. Loved the gentle lounge music in the background. Good to see you on Mads channel and that your travels are not too far away. I’ve ranted on enough now lol. Andy UK
Hey, Andy, yes I hadn't even considered a partial blockage at the hull end of the system, which is odd when you think we had a blockage there right back when we first started on this little adventure, so thank for the reminder!
We did see some drying out piles on the Hamble river that we were tempted to brave once, but we never did in the end. Certainly does sound like quite the saving though 😍
Good job , was at cross house Sunday teaching boat handling,called to say hello to everyone but nobody home, keep up the great channel
Regards Andy
Ah, we may have been out with Mads and Ava, as 99 times out of 100 we would be very much in and working on the boat. Next time 😁⛵️
Great episode Dom, I do this on heat exchangers onboard marine vessels and offshore rigs. Mainly for biosecurity issues but also efficiency. I was glad to see you didn't dive straight in for the expensive de-scalers. They're great if time is an issue but if not all you need is a little acidity and patience. Clean as a whistle by the end mate so top job!
After watching this, I am grateful for my Beta Marina 20. I had an over heating alarm last summer and when safely back in port, traced the issue to a small barnacle in the heat exchanger. It was a pain but nothing compared to the challenge on your Volvo. Well done for getting it done. Hopefully yours is good for a few more years.
I’m also glad to hear yours isn’t as much work and here’s for hoping we’re good for a while. Although knowing old boats, it’ll be something else instead either way 🤣🤣🤣⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures very true! Every day is a learning experience 😊
"Everything, and I mean everything, that *could* be in the way *is* in the way". Yep. That has been my experience, forever. i would not have replaced the gasket, but used a smear of the best gasket sealer you have access to in your area. And the manual will give you torque reading for those 12mm studs/bolts (20 ft/lbs, from memory) so a torque wrench will be a great addition to the kit. Great work.
Hi Mate. D2-55 Heat exchanger matrix will come out the front of the engine. No need to remove the header from the engine. You can clean it in situ by removing just one end cap. But the method is top secret, I could tell you but..... Get yourself some anti-seize paste for those bolts and torque them to the correct value. Great to see you gaining skills. BTW you got a big shout out last week from us. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid.
Unless I’m missing something there no way that cylinder could come out the front? There’s a lip on the back that stopped it coming out, that’s why I transitioned to taking it out the back.
@@CadohaAdventures Ah Ha, depends on the version.
Only on the A and B versions of the D2-55 This is a later version F from memory
@@PittwaterMowingAustralia it is indeed the ‘F’ version.
@@CadohaAdventures Hı mate, I could tell you but I would have to kill you It was a a wınd up... 🤣 I've just helped a fellow sailor with late series D2-55 2019 It was a pıg! Rather than remove the heat exchanger core I removed the end caps and took a look. No ımpellor parts but plenty of small shells! Cleaned ıt wıth a shop vac and 24 hours of week murıc acıd. Good flush through and thıngs are OK. We dıd fınd more shells ın the drıve leg too. But the raw water fılter was fıne! Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Next time you have to clean your heat exchanger. I believe a.22 rifle Barrel cleaning brush and rod might fit through the tubes, I remember another sailor somewhere having used one.
I think this advice has been about the most popular so far, so it looks like it’s time to head on over to Amazon 😬
Well done on your fix. I read through all the comments and learned things too , you tube is great for this alone.
Unmentioned in the comments is that solid copper gets work hardened in use. So solid copper gaskets don't reseal that well.
However if the copper is heated , with a plumbers gas torch usually , and then cooled in water , the copper is good for reuse . This is called annealing . the copper is softened and will seal better for it . I learnt this trick when I fixed my Norton motorbike cylinder head which used a copper head gasket ; I never had to buy a new gasket !
Love your channel for the sailing , the visits , the fixes and yourselves . Thank you so much . Dave
I'm not a mechanic either, but I have some experience, and you seemed to have done a nice job! Now someone else can use YOUR video to learn how to take his Volvo engine heat exchanger apart.
Check your bolt and nut tightness after 20 or so hours on the engine to make sure they aren't loosening. If you have a heat gun or hair drier, you can also apply a little heat to your hose ends to make them a little easier to pull off instead of risking nicking or tearing them prying with a screwdriver. If you have to scrape old gaskets off, and have to touch up the facing, use a woodblock with fine sandpaper to get as flat a surface as is feasible. The only place that is critical is on high compression seals as on your cylinder head. The thicker the gasket is for a mating surface, the less pressure it should be encountering. Cylinder head gaskets are frequently made of thin steel. This was a good project to have everyone else off the boat!
I cut my hair short a couple of days ago and sit here watching your video with my knit cap on keeping my head warm!
Appreciate the tip there, Brian. I’m going to get some torque wrenches and check them all for equal tension and will be sure to check at regular intervals. Several people have highlighted the importance of that to me now, so best not ignore the wisdom being shared 🙏🙏😁⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures Also if you are tightening or loosening bolts around the high compression cylinders there will also be a designated pattern and technique for doing so, even to the point of loosening them after you tighten them and then retightening across the pattern. It's all to help ensure the head is taken down evenly so it doesn't warp.
@@bdphourde I’m trying to find details of this in the D2-55 manual but can’t seem to find any reference to a sequence of tightening the bolts? Any ideas where else to look?
@@CadohaAdventures If you can't find anything specific for a Volvo of your type, check in a generic diesel engine manual or search it on line or ask a mechanic in a boat or truck engine shop. But the torque settings will need to be specific to your D2-55. I will look also. That is just for the cylinder head bolts.
Try this one: th-cam.com/video/5WHBskK_F3o/w-d-xo.html . It is shown on a Honda engine but the procedures are similar and it has pretty good procedures. Sorry, he speaks American English, I hope you can understand it. ;) There were a couple of comment tips worth reading on it. One cautions against using a wire wheel to clean the threads instead of a fine wire brush, and the other is to use a small rubber hose extension on the blower used to blow out the bolt holes, so you blow from the bottom of the hole upwards. My tip to add would be to use a thick bearing grease on the bolt threads, instead of just oil, before screwing them in. The load-bearing surfaces of the threads are an inclined plane that allows passage easier with proper lubrication. I think oil was too thin and you could hear the two bolts on the right side of the head squeaking as they got tight. Also a sturdy lube on the threads facilitates an easier loosening of the bolt when it needs to come out. The exception to this is on the exhaust manifold bolts. They get so hot as to burn off any lubricant and they get very dry and stick a LOT! It may not occur as much in a Marine diesel as the exhausts are cooled by water and not air. A last tip would be to always get a bolt started with your fingers several turns to ensure it isn't being cross-threaded, especially if you use a power tool to take them down to 'snug'. This also applies to wheel lugs on a vehicle where air wrenches are used to put them on. I have had them cross-threaded by the shop and then if you have a flat and need to change it out on the side of the M-1 at night in a thunderstorm on a holiday weekend, you will never get it off!
@@bdphourde I really appreciate this and will check that video out. I was looking at all tension settings on page 102 of this manual and didn’t see anything specifically for the coolant tank, unless it has another name that I’ve misses? www.eddievan.com/documents/engine/volvopenta/d2-55workshopmanual.pdf
Totally awesome vlog really enjoyed it, I am a mechanic and I thought u did a great job, so good to see u really clean the parts before reassembling, many tend to gloss over it but it's actually very important also don't be shy with the marine grease, or gasket sealant ok. Thanks for sharing hope Family are well. 🇦🇺💛💙
Well that does make me feel better about it. There's already been so much amazing feedback and constructive criticism that I feel I've learned a ton from, so much so that I'll be making a few tweaks before setting off.
Thanks for your input too, it really makes putting these videos together so worthwhile 🙏🏻😁⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures Mate ur such a nice bloke it's a pleasure. My Grandfathers toolbox consisted of a hammer and a lump of wood. 🇦🇺 that's Aussies for ya. 😂
Just watched you vlog from Santa Clarita CA. Thank you for taking the time. You along with your commenters are wonderful!
Our Beta 30 allows easy access to both ends of the heat exchanger, the alternator requires to be loosened off as yours does, but other than that the tube stack slides right out of either end. The end caps are held on with 3 Allen bolts, the one at the exhaust elbow end is a bit of a pain though.
Because it's a simple one hour job we strip it and clean it out every year....Congratulations on a job well done....and very well explained...
I’m sure envious of your being able to tackle the job so easily. Although many have said that in some ways I’m lucky, as I have three large points of access which makes things easier than for some 😬🙏⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures Sorry, I should have said, we also have 3 points of entry, trying to do it from the front alone with no side access would be much more problematic....again, a great video..
Dom, you have surprised me once again. Your ability to learn and engage these mechanical chores is amazing and well worth "Congratulations". Job well done!
Great job - for someone who is not a trained engineer mechanic you have a natural flair for mechanical things. Good luck Cardoha
Great video, very detailed. On my end I use Barnacle Buster and back flush my engines, that way i get most impeller parts back in my bucket if there are any loose ones in there.
Love your positive attitude towards a difficult undertaking. Nothing more satisfying than finishing a complicated process having the proper tools and know how and cost cutting along the way!! Excellent
Overheating. Start with the thruhull, then sea strainer, impellor, wear plate then, like you did, heat exchanger. If all that doesn't solve the issue, make sure your prop is not over pitched. It will show up when pushing the engine hard and can do some serious damage to your engine. You should be able to make about 80% of your max revs in neutral when in gear and motoring in flat water with little or no current. Great job on your repair.
What's a "wear plate?"
@@DScottDay Inside a raw water pump is a half moon ish shaped piece of metal which attaches to the pump body via a screw. It's purpose is to put the impellor fins into the proper "bend" to enable it to move the water coming in and propel it onward through the cooling system(raw water side). They can wear over time and then the impellor could be damaged or the pump will loose it's ability to move the water effectively.
@@petercaras3696 Peter, you aren't talking about the "key" in the impeller, are you? Having just changed the water pump with a $1,000 Westerbeke monopoly event, I just greased it and plan on not thinking ab out it, what with everything else that needs attention. Thanks. DD
Taking the coolant lines off and back flushing is your best yearly fix .
Sir, if you were a "non-mechanic" at the beginning you were a mechanic by the end. Well done!
Its the only way to learn. Know your engine. Have the tools. Looking at the exchanger/impeller condition you may have been able to get away with just an impeller change. The other thing is that if the external cooling sea water goes through the internal parts of the tubes of the exchanger it might be easier to reverse flush any debris using extension hoses and external pump rather than taking many parts down to do the job. The engine cooling if containing antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor should be pretty clear. Still you learnt a lot of info, provided a lot and did it very professionally. Well done.
Appreciate your input. It’s strange as the coolant was a Volvo penta own ready mix?
@@CadohaAdventures I enjoyed it. I built up a twin cylinder 9.7 hpsabre marine, very similar to the small Penta. This engine was developed as a replacement for the Citroen 2CV petrol engine but it didn't meet the 10hp spec so the whole run was rejected and they were sold off. I always wanted a diesel for my 22' Intro but the marine versions were way beyond my budget. One day a guy at the boat yard said I have one for £600. Bit his hand off. Built it up in my garage and designed the mounts from physical dimensions and photos via a computer graphics package. Got the gear box from a breakers yard and had the flywheel modified. Been running well for seven years then Covid hit. Sadly now I am no longer fit enough to sail but it's nice to reminisce. Enjoy your sailing. Just reviewed your original video and it seems to confirm my thoughts that the external surfaces were fairly clean which means that the engine coolant was not the factor to the overheating. If it did not leak out after the end caps were removed then you may well have not needed to remove the manifold jacket but you learnt a lot. It might be worth while to get a life span value on the £1500 exchanger. That would give you a target date for full strip down. As mentioned earlier mine has been ok for seven years. The only other bit of info I can offer is to check the Woodruff key on the prop. It was phosphor bronze on a steel shaft. Somehow it sheared and I lost £700 prop. Bye
What an amazing video. I don't own a sailboat yet.. but seeing how involved this fix had to be really was an eye opener. Like yourself, I have zero (engine) mechanical experience. Respect to you, sir!
For a non mechanic guy, you have done a very good job, Cheers
I certainly hope so, the proof will very much be in the pudding when we head out again and she gets truly battle tested 🙏🤞🏼🍀🍀🍀🍀⛵️
Wonderful job Mate,
If your familiar with aviation this type of maintenance is done every 100hrs .
I chose to do this maintenance every 300hrs .
Impeller & Heat Exchanger at the same time .
It will keep your engine happy, not barking at you with alarms .
And using sea foam in your fuel tank along with seafoam when changing fuel filters which keep your injectors clean .
Steady as she goes 👍
I really appreciate the "music in the next room" effect.
Ha ha, I’m glad someone did 😁
Great job indeed. I have to do mine sooner than later, I am on lake Champlain Vermont USA. This year I ran the engine dry ( boat was on its cradle ) for ten minutes to get the oil a little warn for oil change. Little did I know that by leaving the impeller in and running dry, all the blades would break up and end up in the heat exchanger... so I need to do that job now where the space is even smaller to work :( Thanks for the video. Cheer mate.
I'm really impressed by your patience in getting this job done. Impressive stamina. Well done. Cheers.
Careful editing can make anyone look cool headed 😬😁
Thanks for taking the time to say hi 👌🏻😊
I honestly cannot believe how hard checking that heat exchanger on the Volvo. On my westerbeke the heat exchanger is external to the engine and super easy to check !! Wow kudos to your determination tearing the whole engine appart !!
Hi Eduardo. I'm into my Westerbeke 46 (30 years old, under 3000 hours) but looking at the exhaust manifold, wanting to clean and paint it I'm worried, having removed the bolts, broken one, and preparing to pry the manifold from the engine block that I may break something. Any advice? Have you ever removed the exhaust manifold from the engine block? thanks, D Day, Maine
@@DScottDay your fears are well founded ! My 58 is 40 years old 2600 hours and every time I pull a part (fresh water pump, exhaust elbow, etc invariably one bolt will brake or some screw will strip. It is definitively a risk so I have learned to look at the cost of the piece before I take it out and if it is too much I will switch to reactive repair only 😇
@@eduardoacosta6199 Speaking of Exhaust Elbow: This may be the deal-killer for me. With bolts out and only one broken (and that at the head, no real issue) and the manifold showing No Chance in Hell to move, I look at the Exhaust elbow and think: how do i ever move that? The clamp on it with nut off shows no sign of releasing, but then there's the real issue of the elbow. If I soak that for a year I think it ain't moving.?
@@DScottDay so to check the exhaust elbow you have to remove a portion of the heat exchanger in my case with the 58 it wasn’t a huge deal but a little corner of the exchanger piece did brake off. So yeah they are low time engines but still old so you got to assume those proactive checks could come at a cost but usually the reward is worth it in my case my elbow turned out to be totally clean and same thing with my fresh water pump but I feel better knowing that
Thursday afternoon in Brisbane, Australia. I needed a set of parts for our wonderful Perkins sorry Volvo Penta. Several parts were not available and I was quoted delivery prices from Melbourne due the following week, on Friday (long weekend mate, etc). I called Parts 4 Engines on Thursday at 8:00 PM. They had the whole set and said they'd post them right now. A short time later around 10:30 PM Brisbane time, an email said my parts were at Manchester Airport. On Monday 8:30 AM, I got an email saying the parts were in Sydney. I thought this was just a cruel joke. Tuesday morning they were on my doorstep at 7:30 AM. 4 days earlier than I could get them here in Australia. Don't ask me about how much money I saved, but you do know we don't pay your 20% VAT on exported goods.
Two things for future reference:
1. The videos and pictures are good but what if your computer gets wet and you need to do a repair and put it back as it was? After years as a diesel/automotive technician I’ve learned to use either a punch/cold chisel/ letter stamp set to mark the parts so I can just match the marks when reassembling. If time allows you can even use a marker/tape/puff paint.
1. That gasket that broke… they can be reused if you grease one side so it doesn’t stick to the metal. The grease will do two things, it will prevent it from sticking to the metal and help it seal because it helps the gasket to completely form itself to the metal surface.
Amazing advice, appreciate you taking the time to share your wisdom here 😁🙏⛵️
Omg, it's a good thing your a logical thinker,and plenty of patience, I would of lost it by the third road block, best of luck!!!😊
I’ll let you in to a a little secret, I’m not very patient at all, in fact I’m pretty far from patient and a bit hot headed when things aren’t going my way (mount Everest of understatements 😬).
Thank goodness for video editing though. 😇😬😇
A forgotten part if the cooling system is the thermostat , which is on top of the engine most times. It can be stuck open most times , or doesn't open completly. You can check it just by putting it in boiled water. Thermostats wear out , when in doubt ...change it! Nice video , Greetz John.
I always hope its the thermostat but never is lol
When you put in boiling water, what exactly is the desired result?
Are there different specs for these or just open or shut?
Thanks! ... Appreciate the video.
@@thistledown6026 it will open the stat. If it’s working properly. what’s funny is I have never had one stuck closed just open.
@@c.a.mcneil7599 they are designed to fail stuck open.
Use magnets to hold bolts together or to pull out unscrewed ones. Stainless steel doesn't rust also. It's what I use and do. Use it when applicable, efficiently and safe.
You've done a STERLING JOB mate for a DYI effort 👌 as someone who is setting my sights on Motor Yacht ownership in a few years these videos are priceless! 😊
SERIOUSLY impressed. I’d have lost it after 20 minutes.
Between you and me, I lost it plenty times. Thank goodness for the hard cut during the edit 😬😬😬
@@CadohaAdventures just bought a Hunter Legend 41, currently going through the pain barrier of finding all those things the surveyor doesn’t find. This weekend will be spent mainly replacing the the heads waste pipe. Can’t wait.
I’ve cleaned countless Volvo Penta heat exchangers over the years. Their 2000 series engines coolant plumbing piping will virtually always leak regardless of effort to seal. A real shame. Get yourself a Skandvik (or equivalent) flexible shaft nut driver sized for the ABA SS hose clamps installed. They are extremely handy.
Thanks for this video, very helpful as I am in the middle of doing this on a D2-55A......while the HE element on my engine comes out in the other direction, its actually much to do once you pull the whole assembly off as per this video.......kind a crazy for a regular maintenance item as noted but there you go. Pretty sure I'm the first to do this on our engine's 1300 hours/20 year life and hopefully will be good for many years to come with scheduled coolant changes.
Im glad to hear that yours is much less drama than ours.
Here’s to a long and healthy service life after. 🙏🏼⛵️
Thank you for this really informative record. Subscribed. Just the right level of detail to be a useful guide for all of us in the 'more challenged' group. You have a crazy amount of patience - I would have been swearing so much and so loud ... yours is a humbling instruction. Thumbs up for ratchet spanners but don't forget the lowly and largely forgotten Box Spanner - cheap, light, no moving parts (destroyed by salt) and can get you out of many jambs.
This video was loosely based on a true story. In the full directors cut there was plenty of swearing and crying taking place, but. we didn't want the video to be too long 😂😂😬⛵️
with my yanmar 30hp, to clean the heat exchanger pipe i use a .177 gun cleaning rod with the brass brush, worked a treat and cleaned the pipes nicely, i placed a little oil on the o-rings while installing them, engine runs at correct temps now
I liked this video very much, very useful, and inspiring: Going through the process of "removing one small bit after another for access before finally realising it is easier to just remove the whole damn assembly" is exactly the process I used :)
My tube assembly, on a Lombardini LDW 502, was "welded" in there and wouldn't come out at all. One cannot force it too much because it is all brass and super-soft aluminum, eager to be scratched up and never seal again. After a day of struggle, I took the assembly out, it's only four hoses and four screws, got it home to the workshop. It literally popped apart in 10 minutes with no forcing required because now one could work at it from all sides.
Lombardini recommends using a 10% solution of muriatic acid in water at 50 degrees centigrade temperature for the descaling. Takes about 15 minutes to do. I also replaced all the O-rings in there, since they are probably about 20 years old by now.
We use antiseeze between gaskets and the surfaces. Makes gasket removal a breeze. You don't need to scrape surfaces when using the high temp stuff. Also it protects screw threads from welding them selves to the cast metals.
And is that good for high temperatures?
Just something to note. The rotation of the heat exchanger needs to match up with the rotation of your end cap. If you noticed that the cap with the hoses on it that had all the impeller remnants had a slit separating it into two halves? That slit needs to line up with the slit where there are no holes on your heat exchanger.
That makes sense, thank you. I feel like this job will be much easier if I ever have to do it again 😬😬🙏⛵️
What a job. Thanks for showing the entire process.
You’re welcome and there’s plenty of great feedback in the comments to help do the job even better 🙏😊
I believe the engine has sacrificial anodes to stop the internal corrosion problems, they have to be changed as part of a service schedule
I used to think that too, but apparently this engine doesn’t have them 😕
I recently had to do the exact job on a Vetus. I was tearing my hair out after having gone through everything, inlet seacock strainer, inline strainer, raw water impellor and finally the heat exchanger. The whole time I had good water flow out the exhaust. Luckily getting the heat exchanger out was a whole lot easier. Whilst there was quite a lot of marine growth on the salt water side, and I though that this must be it, a good clean out didn't solve the problem. An IR thermometer showed the max temp anywhere on the engine was only getting to 60 Deg C. The Temp Sender unit was only getting to 50 Deg C and still the alarm was blaring withing minutes of starting the engine. Not even enough time to get it warm. Eventually discussion with the Agent revealed that some of the temp sensors on certain models where know to be oversensitive. Replacement of temp sensor is the next step...
I am really glad my heat exchanger is so much easier to get to.
Nice video. Looking forward to your battle test.
Ok, well if the alarm goes off again then that will be the very next thing I look into now! Thanks for sharing 😁⛵️
Great job Dom, especially with limited experience. There is a coolant drain plug near the bottom of the engine which you can attach a hose and drain. Be careful with the ratchet spanner. If you undo a nut and there is not enough room at the end to get the ratchet out due to a short bolt, then your ratchet and bolt are stuck. Solution is to cut (hacksaw) the bolt and may not have enough room for a nut.
The sensor you put grease on before connecting on the side of the engine was a electric conducting grease I hope. Most grease is not. My volvo penta (different models) heat exchangers had one small hole half way along which needed to be at the top. Did you see a small hole? If not then they have changed the design. Recheck your bolts and nuts with correct torque after 5 or ten hours use then you can relax as you have done a very good, careful job. André in Sydney.
Gasket surfaces can be kept very clean and flat without scratches by taking a properly sized pain of glas (cut it to size in order to cover just one or even beter two or three smaller gasket surfaces at the same time or just cover just one big one) glueing on some very very fine 1200 grid sandpaper and sanding of glue and other residue with the extremely flat glas sanding surface just using the glass pain/ piece as a sanding board. If the part lets you it’s also practical to lay down the sandpaper glued on glass and to move the part instead of the sanding board/ glass.
I feel like my gasket removal wasn’t quite so fastidious 😳😳🥺
Great video, I'd never seen a coolant/seawater cooling system but it looked like you'd been working on engines for years. I had a penta gasoline engine in a smaller boat and would have loved to have that much room to access the motor. I had to change the thermostat about once a year and I would have replaced the coolant hoses while you had them off. They are prone to failure but fairly inexpensive. I'd recommend getting a set and keeping them on board
Really useful- thanks. I have a VP D1-20 & had an overheating problem. We tried lots, in the end we figured out it had to be the heat exchanger. We couldn’t get the tubes out so decided to acid them in situ. We used Red Lyme from Amazon & left it soaking in situ for a week. That was a couple of years ago-alls good
Glad to hear you managed to solve the problem with far less hassle than we ended up with 🙏⛵️
it feels like a bodge job now i’ve seen it done properly
EASY WAY!! I shut off the engine sea cock with the engine running, stop the engine as soon as sea water stops coming out of the exhaust. Open the strainer and get your assistant to start the engine while you fill the strainer with white vinegar. As soon as stuff comes out the exhaust stop the engine, replace strainer and wait a few days...... to finish, just open the engine sea cock, start the engine and admire all the calcium deposits leaving your exhaust. Obviously doesn't deal with bits of impeller;) but you can get to those easily enough.
My md22l takes just over 4 liters of white vinegar.
Great videos !
Great job on the engine work just a tip on set belt tension you only want to make the belt tight enough that you can twist the belt 90 degrees. Any more then that and you can wear out the bearings in the alternator and pump.
I’ve never heard it explained like that before so thank you 🙏😁⛵️
Loving your videos! You explain things and show it all so well. Very complicated and I know the feeling of going to take one thing off then realising you have to move so many other things.. one thought I had, can you put an anode somewhere in the exhaust manifold or the exhaust elbow to stop the corrosion. I feel like I saw that somewhere...
A pick, a radiator hose pick (which can be u-shaped), and/or a short indexing pry bar may be useful for gently freeing a hose.
A radiator hose pick,‘I never knew such a specific tool existed 😬😬🤔⛵️👌🏼
Good job on the heat exchanger, I used the same method to clean my large espresso machine, vinegar works great and fast if you heat it up a bit.
You're not the first person to mention heating it up, so I think that's certainly something I'm taking away with me for the next time I tackle something similar. Thanks for sharing 🙏🏻😁
Let me tell you as machanic, this is a realy good video, it is exactly how it goes.
Perfect many things to learn out of it.
Nice work Dom! That was no easy job. I love my flex head gearwrenches!
I will certainly be looking into said tools! 😁😁😁
Your video is very logical and will give lots of confidence in doing the same maintenance to me and lots of other boat owners the basics are pritywell all the same I have a pair of Tam 41 6 cylinder straight six turbo diesel engines in my searay 310 sundander sports boat here in sydney australia volvo being a common marine engine all videos people make is a great help to all boat owners and for sure helps to keep maintenance bills to a realistic cost from a labour point of view well done mate 👍 keep the videos coming how about a few more videos on my engines from somebody happy boating everybody ps enybody got a princess 45 flybridge for sale around 1990s as that's my next boat happy days to all boaters 😊
Why, why, why don’t all of these engine manufacturers just make everything easy access? Great job fixing that issue!
Simple, really. If they made things easy (and thus, quick) to service, then all of their 'authorised repairers' would make a lot less money!
great work Dom if you were to go over to someone else boat with the same penta you'd probably finish the job in a few hours cause you now know where to go and what you need
I’m sure I could indeed do it much quicker now I know what to expect, and I think I’d likely do a better job now for having read so many amazingly helpful comments here 🙏😁
Try using a small 90 degree pick tool to break those seals - easier than a screw driver and maybe less chance of splitting the hose. Really good video.
Brilliant video. I'm amazed how professional you are given what you say is limited experience. I'm not very good at this and would have been terrified as you took off more and more parts on getting it back together. I did a similar job on my Kubota/Nanni 22hp. Everything so much more accessible than Volvo. You truly did it the hard way. Thanks for sharing. I have to do a main engine oil seal next week and the engine has to come out to get to it.
I'm more confident now and insoired.....cheers!
Matthew, I won’t lie, I was starting to get nervous at about the half way point and was very careful laying out all the bits in order, so I could ‘simply’ reverse what I did, possibly with the help of the videos I had recorded. I haven’t fully pressure tested it out in the wild yet, so there’s time still yet for me to regret my efforts, although I hope not 🙏🤣⛵️⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures I would.be very confident your work is good
My exchanger core exit hole was the size of a 5 pence piece it was so calcified. Perhaps double hose clamp if you are worried. Why trust one!
@@matthewlutter3745 fair point! Appreciate it 🙏😁⛵️
Good work Dom.... and not one single swear word lol....Just a thought for the next time you check it. Get a air rifle cleaning kit. It has some fab long cleaning brushes that would fit in your cooling tubes. That way you wouldn't have to do a full strip down. Maybe check both end caps after 25-30 hrs engine run time just to see how clean it is. Take care bud ⛵👍
Appreciate that, Vince, cleaning it in situ does sounds like a much better option than a full dismantle again. I can assure you there was plenty of swearing, which is why I'm thankful that I have full editorial control over the video production 🤣
Great job spannering Dom, cracked my knuckles many times over the year's
It certainly looks like an occupational hazard. Feels good to get in there though and get another problem (hopefully) solved 🙏🤞🏼🍀🍀🍀⛵️
@@CadohaAdventures always fees good when you complete a tough job and sit back satisfied. Thanks for your videos, we both really enjoy them.
Completing day skipper and competent crew this year but don't have the balls to buy a boat, flotilla hols for us. ⛵⛵
Dave and Tracy
@@davidhornby7750 seems like a great place to get started, best of luck with your courses 🙏⛵️⛵️
Hi There are compounds that you can use to help stop the Dissimilar metal corrosion electrolyse JC -5 is good or just a high temp gasket compound applied lightly plus another good cleaner that is cheap and good for Brass and copper Coke a Cola
Duralec green is designed for this.
You could have the surface for the exhaust hit with a TIG welder to build up the area. Then - it’s just refacing.
Good job. I am so great full for my GM two stroke diesel after seeing how much effort it took you to get to your strainer out
Yes indeed, it was a lot more involved than I ever expected it to be 😳
@@CadohaAdventures And, like you intimated, there was possibly a design flaw in not being able to take it out the other end. Incidentally, did you check to see if it was reversible for that purpose?
New subscriber from Sail Life here.
I paused the video at the 18:00 minute mark to shout into my phone. MAKE SURE YOU SWEEP OVER EVERYTHING WITH A MAGNET BEFORE YOU BUTTON THINGS UP!
That rotary wire brush WILL leave bits of wire in your engine. It WILL damage things.
Back to the video …
Well done. You seem to be low on mechanical experience but able to adapt and learn quickly to get it done.
I just keep trawling through TH-cam videos each time I get stuck and thankfully there's always a video out there tackling the thing that has me stumped. I'd be lost without TH-cam 😂
Thanks for this video. I’ve got a d2-55A and there are a number of detail differences. However, it looks like it’s probably best to take the heat exchanger out in one lump before fiddling about trying to get the matrix out. Mine doesn’t overheat but emits steam from the exhaust.
You most likely have a blocked exhaust mixer
After draining the engine the shop manual step #2 says "Disassemble the exhaust manifold together with the heat exchanger."
three suggestions. First, get a small wet/oil stone which you can use to prep gasket surfaces. It will remove any material such as metal burrs or gasket/sealant that you failed to remove with the razor. Second, it's best to apply sealant to both surfaces to get the best possible seal. Finally, try to fit the gasket hole to the port by removing any excess gasket material to improve flow.
Dom, awesome job! I too became a diy outboard mechanic on an old 85hp Mercury on the back of my boat....My best, most. helpful purchase for it was a ratchet spanner too!!
Can't wait to see you guys get back up and cruising soon!. Its been great seeing your cruising/ journey so far. Especially enjoyed the sailing around the Sou west and Scillies...Use to call Falmouth home until I left for NZ years ago..Was a nice way to re-visit the place through your videos, which perfectly capture the pure essence of the sights and sounds. Love your enthusiasm for the English countryside and the coastline.too..Just need an aroma control for a full experience!! . Happy boat life and sailing to you three!! Cheers Rob in NZ!
Well I say that you've done a pretty good job especially in a tight space like that and also I think it's amazing how much you care about the corrosion some people would never even think about fixing it good on you. For giving it a go as you will never know how to fix it if you do not try. That's how I learned to fix cars. And having gloves on is more of a a pain because there always breaking so its more of a mess to clean up at the end I also like to feel the things I work on because a lot of the time you can't see what it is you working on. But I do not judge we're gloves if you wish as it's your own choice.
That seems to have been done very sensibly and I found it , surprisingly interesting! Well done!
Scribe a mark on parts before taking them apart. brass and copper gaskets often a good idea to anneal before refitting. Like the video
I like it, makes total sense! Thank you 🙏😬😁
All I know about heat exchanger units is that it is a very hard, and expensive job. That was some of the most informative video I have seen on the task, as it was at my level, and gives me the confidence that with a bit of time and forethought I too could do more on my boat myself. Well done big man - sh*t hair cut, though.
Hi - great video - we are in the process of doing the identical job and I have a question. Is there a specific direction that the cooling tubes assembly comes out, or can you "hammer" it out from either side of the heat exchanger? Thank you!
On our boat, sadly there was only one way it could come out (aft) which is what led to this being such a huge job in the end. If it could have come out forward then it would have been far easier to do the job. 😬
@@CadohaAdventures Thanks for the reply 🙏- we took the complete heat exchanger off so we have the "luxury" I guess of doing it either way.
Thanks!
Great job with the service and video. I watched the whole thing as I enjoyed how clean and like new you made everything.
It does feel very satisfying to make a grubby old engine feel a bit spruced up again. My argument is that it also makes spotting potential issues much easier in the future too 🙏😁
You got off lightly, we had the same old bits of impeller problem on our D2-55A left over from previous owner. In our case we also gave the engine some max revs in an emergency situation, while being pushed towards some rocks in heavy weather, and nightmare, the hose blew off the heat exchanger inlet. The first we knew of it was the bilge pump alarm. The bilge filling up before the engine overheated. We stuck the hose back on and slowly went into the nearest marina. As suggested in another comment on version A you can get to the front of the pipes from the front, so we easily got the old bits out.
To stop this happening again I fitted a strainer between the pump and the cooler inlet. A common practice on big power boats.
The corrosion problem also happened to us with our original steel exhaust elbow, but second nightmare it corroded through the side of the exchanger, letting exhaust fumes into the boat. We needed a new exchanger, £5k later and a new version F cooler. all is good again. After much discussion with local Volvo dealer I fitted a fresh water flushing system on the inlet to the raw water strainer, simple Y valve and a mixer tank in the aft locker. We now always flush the seawater out of the system after every sail. There is a Volvo flushing kit sold in the US, at the usual Volvo price, nut my version is better and much cheaper.
A few other Volve Penta owners in our marina have copied this idea as a preventative measure.
Wowzers, so many tales of caution for all of us to learn from there, so seriously thanks for sharing. I really like the sound of the flushing system, that corrosion is kind of concerning 😕😕😕
Great job really, but I do not really understand why you had to take the heat exchanger off and empty it. Is there any reason in particular?
It was one of those things I had never done before and didn’t realise that it was going to be such a huge job. Every video I had watched with other people doing it made it look so easy 🤣