What is your estimate or an idea of the price (parts labor repair cost) based on your experience. I'm just trying to get a general idea. I have a 2010 Pilot and 930 seemed steep. What's your opinion...?
In my case, my truck didn't have a shaking wheel, and it only slightly pulled to the left. What it did do was have a rhythmic "pulse" of braking, making the truck seem like it was hesitating. The pulse would increase with speed and decrease when coasting. I got home and used my hand to feel each wheel and the front-left was radiating heat. At that point I only went a few blocks to Wal-Mart and back. Another symptom was the truck wouldn't crawl forward while in gear with the foot off of both pedals. I had to fight to get the caliper off because the bottom piston (two-piston caliper) was sticking out further than the top one. I replaced the caliper but the problem still persisted. Once I replaced the hose as well the truck acts normally. Just putting this out there in case you don't quite have the symptoms mentioned in this video.
thank you for not just this video but all of them. being a woman most mechanics hear chaching when they see you coming so I have learned to research before even calling them. sometimes I can fix it myself (anything not requiring a lift) but would not be able to do that without people like you. Total game changer
This gentleman is great at explaining everything, 1a auto has a great way to advise people on how to do things and be safe about it. Thanks for all the info you provided.
Its been a while since I've watched 1A Auto videos. Recently I have watched a lot of them, and the production quality has gotten a lot better. Always good to have a video to show how something works.
I was amazed to find a great brake tip a few days ago when I had to replace a fitting on a steel brake pipe, I've done a number in my time I hate steel pipes but anywho all these years trying to cut, debur, and put a fitting on all while having brake fluid flowing out making a big mess on occasions I'd have to bleed the whole vehicle afterwards. The tip is use a plank to keep the brake pedal flush to the floor wedged in against the seat that will stop the flow of fluid just be careful when undoing the bleeder on whichever ever caliper your working on. It's completely changed my view and hopefully future experiences doing brake job's. Great video and that caliper jezz lucky it didn't smack him in the face.
Thanks and very good trouble shooting. In my opinion, if one is bad they both get changed. Is that a little more expensive, yes. You have to decide if you want to replace just the non-functioning unit or both. Personal choice, I would do both to keep them the same. Thanks again for showing how to found the part that was not functioning.
Changed a seized front caliper on my f250 last month, the struggle with a prybar is real! Being the oh so lucky guy I am,a rear Caliper seized on me Wednesday. My wife was less than impressed with the smell of toasty brake pads when I pulled into the driveway. 😂
Len is a trip. He explained everything perfectly and the funny part is besides him being silly is, I just replaced my brakes all the way around A couple weeks ago. New drums new self adjusters new spring kits everything new shoes all for the back then I went ahead and did the front and bled everything properly. Sure enough I was driving I felt a slight pulsation and then when I stuck my hand on the lug nuts on the driver side they were so hot they almost burned me so I figured something was going on with the caliper or possibly an issue with the brake lines. The passenger side was moving freely but it was hard to turn but still can turn and I crack the bleeder screw open and then it freed up the caliper so it's spun freely. I figured time for a new brake line so I ordered the passenger and driver side brake hoses ACDelco of course. They took a couple days to come in and when they did I was off the next day so I installed them and bled everything the passenger side was working like new The driver side would spin finally but still had a lot of grab if you will on the rotor so I drove it to work probably a big mistake drove it home and then realized it was still too hot but the passenger side was working fine and it had a little pull to the left, driver side. I figured all my brake lines are new so it's got to be an issue with a slider pins or the piston itself. I removed the slider pins and they looked very good so that narrowed it down to the piston. I went back to the auto parts store while in the parking lot I removed the caliper and took it back in to get a replacement. I installed it bled the brakes and the rest is history it has been working with no pulsing I could drive for 45 minutes and stop and I can touch the rim on the driver side no more severe heat just a little warm but that's to be expected. It really moves freely now before it felt like I was trying to go and slightly pressing on the brake at the same time. I also noticed that it pulled to the left when breaking. I will tell you guys and girls that something is simple as a piston on a caliper starting to seize up causes a whole slew of problems, trust me. Len is right. I usually all the time use AGS brand called syl-glide brake lubricant. Spell check but anyhow this stuff works really well and it's not as cheap as some people say it is. My local auto parts store had a 4 oz tube of it for $10.99 plus tax. Using the right lubricant and making sure that you have your slider pins nice and lubed up and any metal on metal contact points like where the pads slide on metal brackets or in my case part of the caliper where my 96 Chevy Silverado c1500 sit and clip on I also put a little bit around the piston the metal of it so there's no possibility of moisture causing it to rust against the back of the brake pad. I'm just rambling on and on but seriously this is an outstanding video. It shows pretty much exactly what was going on with mine. Now that I have all brand new brake lines brand new calipers brand new pads brand new drum brakes all the way around New springs new the works My truck stops so smooth like the day it was when it was brand new perhaps even better because I switched from semi-metallic brake pads to ceramic brake pads and it does make a difference. Also I forgot to mention I changed the master cylinder as well and bled any possible air out of the ABS module and yes you would need a scan tool for that or if you're redneck or country you can do this at your own risk. I mean your own risk! Drive it in a field and slam on the brakes and you can hear the ABS system activate and you do this a few times it burps the air out of the ABS so then you can bleed at the wheels. I don't know how true this is but I just used a scan tool that my brother has because he's a mechanic and the scan tool activated the ABS module.
I had that same problem with my 2005 chevy malibu ,the caliper seized on the driver side i just replaced the caliper and now im good to go , great video i watched your video it help me determined what issues i was having steering wheel shaking ,hesitation pulling foward and creaking when backing up all good now thanks👍👍👍
That was grate solved my problem now all I have to do is replace it my daughter is going out of town this weekend and she doesn’t want me to do it with out someone home .I’m 67 years old but I love working on cars but I find sometimes I m not strong enough to get bolts to turn.lol I think maybe I’m getting to old for this but thanks for helping me with my problem.
I appreciate the videos, great job. I was having similar symptoms, but the cause for me were the front tires. The issue with the tires was not visible because it was on the side facing the engine. I guess I should not wait 7 years between tire changes lol.
Thanks guys and gals. Little videos like this helps ppl diagnose issues that would cost big at a mechanic shop. Showing them how to fix them is great. Thanks.
Had that problem with my 1993 Nissan Sentra. With the caliper still attached to the braking system and the hose clamp removed, I pumped the brake pedal to push the piston out. Loved the video. Great maintenance tips.👍👍💯
Good info. I learned some things about brakes I didn't know before. I had a caliper lock up on my van a few years ago. I just bought a new one and it fixed it. I noticed a brake smell coming in the van and when I stopped at a store and got out, I saw smoke coming from under the left front fender. I knew what was wrong. Caliper not working. Watching you video tells me replacing the caliper might not have fixed the problem.
My truck had this exact symptom. The steering wobble seemed periodic, sometimes none at all. Couldn’t figure out what it was. Then I had to slam on my brakes for an ambulance going thru an intersection on a 55mph highway. When I began driving afterwards, the wobble was in full force, so much so that I pulled over. I waited about 5 min, then took an alternate (slower speed) route back home to avoid the highway speeds. I rolled down my windows to listen for any noises, and I could hear the sound of the brakes hissing (not grinding) as I drove. When I got home I could feel the heat from the passenger side front brake as I stood 5 feet away. And it was sunny, probably 85 degrees outside. I didn’t have a thermometer, so I tried to spit on each brake rotor. On the front driver side, the spit hit the rotor and sizzled. On the front passenger side, the spit evaporated before touching the rotor. So I changed out both front hoses, got some new pads, and did a full flush. (The rotors & calipers seemed okay.). She’s right as rain for now, but I had about 1/8” of pad left before metal on metal. I wish I could send pictures of the pads. I think that the dirty brake fluid caused the passenger side hose to have some type of one way clog. It would definitely get pressure to the brake, but would not allow it to release back to the reservoir. Very good (and pertinent) video btw!!
Bro I am impressed, what a video. I mean everything from diagnosis to spech delivery, pause, accent, sound, camera angle, attemp to repair, replacement etc all are excellent and god level. Superb job god bless you
Excellent walk thru! I just recently had some issues with shimmy which turned out to be worn tire due to front end alignment. New tires and all’s well. I will however do a complete check after my shoulder surgery is healed. Thanks for a thorough explanation of possible problems.
Simple; drive a mile or two. If you feel a difference in the steering wheel. Pull over immediately and place your hand near the the center of the wheel. In comparison if one wheel to the other. If it’s warmer/hotter than the other. Then you have a dragging/seized caliper.
Your hub nut could loosen. Had it happen on my jeep cherokee. I felt it right away driving onto the highway. I went home and decided to rotate tires front to back. Soon as I pulled the front tire you could tell. Apparently the torque broke free on the hub nut. The nut cover and cotter pin kept it from moving any further . Just replaced both front hub assemblies and things have been alright.
Thank you thank you thank you!!! So good I understood everything and finally realize what it is that is wrong with my. Cadi. We just replaced the mounts on transition and engine and it’s still shaking! Then noticed the heat coming from one wheel, and basically this is our issue. We will be fixing it soon. Again, thank you so much for being so thorough and easy to follow!!
+EL FOR G Legacy Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Perhaps a good to great addition to this video would be information on what we need to do to keep our brakes from suffering this condition in the first place if there is anything doable.
So I just recently experienced a very similar issue with my 2010 Chevy Equinox. I had just purchased it only 2 weeks prior with 132k miles. While driving early on, especially during cooler temps, nothing was noticed, but after abput 30 to 45 mins of driving and thus braking periodically, it would become nearly undrivable. I brought it to a local firestone service shop, but since it was a Saturday and they didn't have a certified technician on duty, a true inspection was possible. The following Monday, located a "Napa Auto Service Center" a couple blocks away whom agreed to inspect and repair same day(which was crucial in order to drive to work that same evening). Thing is though, about an hour prior to them opening, I found a video suggesting that if there was too much fluid in the reservoir, and the vent hole is clogged, it could cause the brakes to subsequently drag. So since inspection for too much fluid was so simple and quick, I did so. And yes, it did appear there was too much fluid. In fact, I wound up removing 100 cc's with a large syringe. And in doing so, I immediately noticed how abnormally greenish the color of the fluid was. Not truly understanding at the time what that actually indicated, I just replaced the cap, hopped in, and prayed the too much fluid fixed the brake drag. But NOPE! No such luck..... Fast forwarding, brought it to the Napa center an hour later(830am), explained everything to the owner, especially how I removed so much fluid, and how I was next to positive it was the front pass caliper due to the pungent odor billowing from there, along with the rim being covered by brake dust way more than the other rims. It qas then that he made a comment about how "It's most likely the brake hose being pinched or collapsed". I left the shop with the expectation it would only be a couple hundred bucks at most..... WRONG! And i need to add a couple more little details to fully drive my point home regarding this shop and its fraudulent owner..... So 1130 rolls around and since he said they were going to be performing a "full brake system inspection" that would cost $125 if I chose to not have any work done or they didn't find anything wrong (but I'm guessing this theif rarely if ever tells ANYONE there's nothing wrong when there actually isnt) because then he'd have to deal with someone wondering why he's charging nearly 10 times as much as any other shop for the same inspection. So at 1130, i still hadnt gotten a call from him regarding this full inspection and it's findings, and since they closed at 4, plus needing to leave for work by 430, I began getting worried/anxious that they weren't going to get to it as promised, thus having wasted the only free time I had for hopefully fixing this issue on my only means of transportation(which already caused 2 missed shifts already) soi called them. He said they were "literally about to pull it in" . Go fgr! So i onve again expressed concern regarding my time sensitivity issues..... It was only 23 mins later he texted an estimate for $587.99!!! And the form listed 1.2 hrs of labor to R-N-R caliper, .9 hrs for the brake hose (you know, the one he mentioned before even laying eyes on my vehicle) and $160 for the caliper itself, $93 for the hose, and $15 for whatever"other" is! I still haven't found a part gor my Equinox with the name of other! Oh, and $50 for a "system flush". Also, it said in the estimate that the pads would be replaced if found necessary but was included in the cost of the caliper charge. So altogether it was 2 hrs of labor at $109.99 per hr.... I called him and justified paying that ridiculous amount ONLY because they promised it to be done same day, plus with new pads, I would have paid around 300 myself had i chose to do it (which since I live on a really steep decline with on street parking in downtown Cincinnati thought it was worth it just to not lose my job and not have to rent a car or pay for ubers) When i called to approve the work, he said it would be fully ready by 2, only 2 hours away..... So when 145 rolls around, I call to see if everything is on schedule, and not only was he obviously bothered and rude by my asking, he said the parts had just arrived and they would be pulling it in next to begin. At 220 I get a text that my vehicle was ready! Only 35 mins later! 35 mins to fully flush, bleed, and replace all that!??? Ok! Whatever. I thought they wete supposed to be trustworthy, especially being backed by Napa! NNNOOOPPPPEEE! That was on April 15th. Well by April 27th, I begin having new issues with the rear drivers side caliper doing the same thing! I popped the hood, glanced at the brake fluid reservoir, opened the cap, and BBAAMMM! I immediately noticed the SAME GREEN FLUID! We all know new brake fluid (DOT 3 AND 4) is clear to amber! How in the world, if he did a full flush, would it still have the same dark green fluid!? It wouldn't! He clearly didn't flush it at all! Which led me to suspect him altogether. I mean, if he lied about the flush, what else did he lie about? Right!? I looked up the hose he charged me almost a hundred bucks for..... Only $15 on Napa's website for normal cinsumers, so you know he prolly only paid 5 or 10! He didmt change the pads! Plus the rotor got warped and glazed from all the extreme heat. My vehicle shakes when i apply the brakes now constantly. I confronted him and he tried convincing me that there's no way his mechanic wouldn't have left the same fluid, then changed his story to something about they used the diagnostic tool to bleed and flush the front caliper only. To which i replied " That's not a system flush then! That's just bleeding the caliper!" So after contacting a different more reputable shop, the mechanic there said he was supposed to have tested the old fluid for contamination especially with the green coloration because that's indicative of copper breaking down or water in the system. Both if which will undoubtedly ruin all the remaining components of my brake system if left untreated. So i am curious your thoughts, please? Especially with the new developments of new dragging with yet another caliper. Do you feel I have grounds to sue this dude? I mean, what if i now have to replace the entire system due to the contamination in the fluid that he lied about flushing? I really appreciate all your videos and information and I thank you if you read all this! Sorry so long! Hope to hear back.....
Brakes rotors and calipers...how much would you estimate it would cost for an SUV? Your best opinion on prices in your experience. I have the same problem happen to me and the place I went to is charging me 930 for a Honda Pilot.
@@TheTSRush New mounting bracket and caliper w/hardware $126 each side, Brakes $35, Rotor $56 each side. I am replacing parts for a Chevy SUV Equinox 2011 with a frozen front caliper and slider pins.. My parts are from ACDelco. The honda part cost may be more....
Generally that will only be when you are applying the brakes. When applying the brakes and the steering wheel shakes typically it will be an issue with the front rotors are in a severe case maybe even a sway bar links especially on Dodge grand Caravan. The other thing to remember is that if you feel something shaking when you apply the brakes and it’s more “in your seat” it’s probably the rear brakes, rear brake rotors
Super, Duper Video, well Done, Lots of information, now I'm well late informed after I changed the CV Drive Axel for no reason, well 50/50 when I should just have just changed the CV Drive Axel's seal, after replacing it still has the same shaking issue when I brake but it's more clear coming up from the front the passenger's side❗😭❗Well another inspection for the next Weekend I guess❗😅❗
+@ViiDuquette Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Replaced brake hoses and calipers last year. Sticking caliper finally went away. However the issue has came right back this year as it has gotten warmer. Perplexed....
dude, someone just ran into the front of my truck breaking a break line in the front so i replaced it and got it all bleed out. My truck was fine for a bit and didn't shake until i bleed the brakes. THANK YOU FOR THISSSSSSSSSSS!
This was a great video. Thank you for taking the time. Do you have any videos on how you bleed brakes with a single person? I recently bought a pressure bleeder and have not used it yet
I can get that seized caliper apart but I am old, and I know a few tricks. I pump grease into the caliper. Grease is not air. It will not compress. There is a second trick. Put the caliper in a plastic bag and then put the whole mess in the freezer. Often the piston will fall out with a gentle tap using a screwdriver and a hammer. AMAZING! Hone the bore in the caliper, a new piston + a rebuild kit and it's good as new.
My mas van shakes while braking. Very uneven rotor wear on the back. Gonna do a full brake job on it. My brothers did the job last time. I know they werent as thorough as i wouldve been.😂😂 Gonna get my ma to let me do it this next time. Thanks to my new found knowledge on brakes, i feel confident i can do a good job. 👍 Now i just gotta buy a bunch more toolz!!! Thats fun tho! 🎉🎉
Very informative video, and not only this video. All of his video are very informative. Thank you for doing this for us that are not a mechanic. More Power to you!
Thank you, very informative. I am facing similar issue. Ordered a rebuilt kit, hopefully it will help. Caliper is aluminum 6 piston and cost about 2 grand to replace so will try to revive it first. I actually bought used caliper, cheapest on ebay, because it is safety issue, I want to study it before I touch thouse on the car.
I had that problem in my Tacoma- turned out some of the pistons were slower than the others. When you remove the pads, inspect them for any type of runout or uneven wear. If any of them are unlevel, reinstall them and get yourself a caliper rebuild kit before going any further - otherwise the runout will repeat on the new hardware, and will just happen again. Runout on the pads necessarily doesn't cause the rotors to become unlevel, but it could cause the wear tracks to not be concentric with the rotor..so the pad goes in and out of it. And that's what causes the steering or in my case the entire truck to shake during light braking. I drove my truck for an entire year like that because I knew the brakes were safe with only 6 month old brakes and there was no steering pulling, and it didn't shake at all during medium or hard braking. Only during light braking.
Because the rotors are shiny metall, the temp reading won't be accurate (the number on the screen) but the difference between left and right can be trusted. To get a reliable reading you need to set the emissivity of the material you're testing
I have a 96 Toyota Avalon ,my wheel was shaking so bad. My mechanic said it’s probably the shocks or the axle. I said no it feels like it’s probably the brakes. The brake light came on so glad I watched your video. Thank you.❤
I love these videos and on this one in particular I learned something I'm gonna go out and get a temperature gauge now cause I do have a little vibration in the steering wheel which may be hurting my mpg.
Around 5 years ago, my Cherokee had me pulling to the side on the road. Unsafe on the highway. To find out, the one brake rotor was extremely hot and the other was cool to touch. Bad brake caliper
Love the movie magic in this one! Also the skeleton in the reflection of the bumper at the end. Thanks for keeping things entertaining and informative.
*Great video, I learned alot. My question is should I buy all the tools I don't have for a job i'll probably do once or pay a mechanic who already has the tools*
My 2004 Dodge Dakota has new calipers, brakes and rotors. We have experienced this after replacing the vacuum booster. I had bought everything down to all the tubing. Original steel lines are rusty and crusty. We just changed the master cylinder yesterday and need to further troubleshoot.
Great video, but Sometimes its not just the caliper. Brake hoses can separate internally and form a check valve type condition, where you think its just the caliper and its not. Always best to replace the hoses w the caliper if the caliper appears to be seizing, The fluid goes in to the caliper but is slow-moving back when pressure is released. Also the smell of burning pads. The hoses typically separate internally if someone allows the caliper to just hang or puts a kink in the hose when removing the caliper or pads, just food for thought!
I had this happen, finally figured out the brake hose collapsed internally causing fluid restriction. Almost gave up, was so close to calling a mobile mechanic.
Great video as usual. I’m wondering if you could help me with an issue I’ve been having with my car. For over a year now I’ve been trying to get my vehicle fixed but not the dealer or other mechanics have been able to figure out what the issue is. When I drive to 60 miles and over, the steering wheel shakes, not violently but noticeably and brakes shakes also. I’ve changed the rotors and brakes 4 times, that didn’t help. I’ve change the tires 3 times because the dealer said that’s the issue. I’ve change the axle on both sides didn’t fix the issue. I don’t know what else to try at this point , any suggestions please?
Good video I like how you explain step-by-step I just change all the breaks and disc and drums on my Toyota Tundra but I feel some vibration when I press the break pedal is the normal?
Ive been chasing a problem like this on my 2015 honda civic si since like a year after i got it brand new. Ive replaced everything at this point and im hoping this caliper and brake line job im about to do will finally fix it
This is a PITA problem to have in a way because the symptoms usually point to unbalanced wheels, bad CV joint or bad wheel bearings. When checking out my car to see if my wheel bearing was bad I noticed the brake caliper was able to move a little where as the side I figured was not the issue ( due to the wheel not being extremely hot after driving) the brake caliper was solid and I couldn’t move it.
How often should the brake fluid be replaced in a vehicle . not something people really do you know. just wondering . Ive got a 8 year Chevy Silverado with 43,000 miles on it .
There is a brake fluid test kit that will tell you if your fluid is still good or not. You can also look at it, if it is a dark color that would be a good indication to go ahead and flush it.
I have a 06 Chevrolet Silverado,and between 50 and 60 when I start to break the back of the truck feels like its bouncing up And down where should I start and what do you think the problem is?? HElP
wow i havent drove my truck in 2 days and was looking up why my truck is shaking come to find out i find a huge bulge on my front tire thinking it was somethin else glad i saw this
Question: a week ago I got my brake pads replaced no rotors just pads. Ever since then my steering wheel has been shaking horribly while driving and while braking. Is it possible that the mechanic seized my caliper due to not installing the new pads correctly? I returned and they said my brake hoses were bad. They replaced those and still …shaking. I’m not sure if he took the brake fluid cap off before compressing the caliper. But my car didn’t shake at all before he put the new pads in.
This helped me a lot my car vibrate. The seat and he bake of my car feel like my car is going to break in half its in the car shop now...but that you for you great video...
I have a 2008 E350 146K miles with utility body, SRW, 2WD and am around 9,000 lb.. I have a heat issue (I think). The wheel bearings are good, the brakes have been bled w/high temp synthetic, FL caliper recently replaced but the front hubs, not the rotors, are about 175-180 and the rear around 130 after 20-30 min moderate city driving. The temps are within a couple of degrees side to side. Any thoughts?
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Good video! You guys make me laugh while being educated!💪🏾♥️
What is your estimate or an idea of the price (parts labor repair cost) based on your experience. I'm just trying to get a general idea. I have a 2010 Pilot and 930 seemed steep. What's your opinion...?
In my case, my truck didn't have a shaking wheel, and it only slightly pulled to the left. What it did do was have a rhythmic "pulse" of braking, making the truck seem like it was hesitating. The pulse would increase with speed and decrease when coasting. I got home and used my hand to feel each wheel and the front-left was radiating heat. At that point I only went a few blocks to Wal-Mart and back. Another symptom was the truck wouldn't crawl forward while in gear with the foot off of both pedals. I had to fight to get the caliper off because the bottom piston (two-piston caliper) was sticking out further than the top one. I replaced the caliper but the problem still persisted. Once I replaced the hose as well the truck acts normally. Just putting this out there in case you don't quite have the symptoms mentioned in this video.
This guy's energy is amazing! Never boring, great info. Thank you!!
thank you for not just this video but all of them. being a woman most mechanics hear chaching when they see you coming so I have learned to research before even calling them. sometimes I can fix it myself (anything not requiring a lift) but would not be able to do that without people like you. Total game changer
This gentleman is great at explaining everything, 1a auto has a great way to advise people on how to do things and be safe about it.
Thanks for all the info you provided.
Its been a while since I've watched 1A Auto videos. Recently I have watched a lot of them, and the production quality has gotten a lot better. Always good to have a video to show how something works.
I was amazed to find a great brake tip a few days ago when I had to replace a fitting on a steel brake pipe, I've done a number in my time I hate steel pipes but anywho all these years trying to cut, debur, and put a fitting on all while having brake fluid flowing out making a big mess on occasions I'd have to bleed the whole vehicle afterwards. The tip is use a plank to keep the brake pedal flush to the floor wedged in against the seat that will stop the flow of fluid just be careful when undoing the bleeder on whichever ever caliper your working on. It's completely changed my view and hopefully future experiences doing brake job's. Great video and that caliper jezz lucky it didn't smack him in the face.
Thanks and very good trouble shooting. In my opinion, if one is bad they both get changed. Is that a little more expensive, yes. You have to decide if you want to replace just the non-functioning unit or both. Personal choice, I would do both to keep them the same. Thanks again for showing how to found the part that was not functioning.
Changed a seized front caliper on my f250 last month, the struggle with a prybar is real!
Being the oh so lucky guy I am,a rear Caliper seized on me Wednesday.
My wife was less than impressed with the smell of toasty brake pads when I pulled into the driveway. 😂
+Yard Dawg Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Len is a trip. He explained everything perfectly and the funny part is besides him being silly is, I just replaced my brakes all the way around A couple weeks ago. New drums new self adjusters new spring kits everything new shoes all for the back then I went ahead and did the front and bled everything properly. Sure enough I was driving I felt a slight pulsation and then when I stuck my hand on the lug nuts on the driver side they were so hot they almost burned me so I figured something was going on with the caliper or possibly an issue with the brake lines. The passenger side was moving freely but it was hard to turn but still can turn and I crack the bleeder screw open and then it freed up the caliper so it's spun freely. I figured time for a new brake line so I ordered the passenger and driver side brake hoses ACDelco of course. They took a couple days to come in and when they did I was off the next day so I installed them and bled everything the passenger side was working like new The driver side would spin finally but still had a lot of grab if you will on the rotor so I drove it to work probably a big mistake drove it home and then realized it was still too hot but the passenger side was working fine and it had a little pull to the left, driver side. I figured all my brake lines are new so it's got to be an issue with a slider pins or the piston itself. I removed the slider pins and they looked very good so that narrowed it down to the piston. I went back to the auto parts store while in the parking lot I removed the caliper and took it back in to get a replacement. I installed it bled the brakes and the rest is history it has been working with no pulsing I could drive for 45 minutes and stop and I can touch the rim on the driver side no more severe heat just a little warm but that's to be expected. It really moves freely now before it felt like I was trying to go and slightly pressing on the brake at the same time. I also noticed that it pulled to the left when breaking. I will tell you guys and girls that something is simple as a piston on a caliper starting to seize up causes a whole slew of problems, trust me. Len is right. I usually all the time use AGS brand called syl-glide brake lubricant. Spell check but anyhow this stuff works really well and it's not as cheap as some people say it is. My local auto parts store had a 4 oz tube of it for $10.99 plus tax. Using the right lubricant and making sure that you have your slider pins nice and lubed up and any metal on metal contact points like where the pads slide on metal brackets or in my case part of the caliper where my 96 Chevy Silverado c1500 sit and clip on I also put a little bit around the piston the metal of it so there's no possibility of moisture causing it to rust against the back of the brake pad. I'm just rambling on and on but seriously this is an outstanding video. It shows pretty much exactly what was going on with mine. Now that I have all brand new brake lines brand new calipers brand new pads brand new drum brakes all the way around New springs new the works My truck stops so smooth like the day it was when it was brand new perhaps even better because I switched from semi-metallic brake pads to ceramic brake pads and it does make a difference. Also I forgot to mention I changed the master cylinder as well and bled any possible air out of the ABS module and yes you would need a scan tool for that or if you're redneck or country you can do this at your own risk. I mean your own risk! Drive it in a field and slam on the brakes and you can hear the ABS system activate and you do this a few times it burps the air out of the ABS so then you can bleed at the wheels. I don't know how true this is but I just used a scan tool that my brother has because he's a mechanic and the scan tool activated the ABS module.
Mechanics always think I'm just losing my mind.
I had that same problem with my 2005 chevy malibu ,the caliper seized on the driver side i just replaced the caliper and now im good to go , great video i watched your video it help me determined what issues i was having steering wheel shaking ,hesitation pulling foward and creaking when backing up all good now thanks👍👍👍
That was grate solved my problem now all I have to do is replace it my daughter is going out of town this weekend and she doesn’t want me to do it with out someone home .I’m 67 years old but I love working on cars but I find sometimes I m not strong enough to get bolts to turn.lol I think maybe I’m getting to old for this but thanks for helping me with my problem.
I appreciate the videos, great job. I was having similar symptoms, but the cause for me were the front tires. The issue with the tires was not visible because it was on the side facing the engine. I guess I should not wait 7 years between tire changes lol.
Thanks guys and gals. Little videos like this helps ppl diagnose issues that would cost big at a mechanic shop. Showing them how to fix them is great. Thanks.
Had that problem with my 1993 Nissan Sentra. With the caliper still attached to the braking system and the hose clamp removed, I pumped the brake pedal to push the piston out.
Loved the video. Great maintenance tips.👍👍💯
Thank you for this video. I figured out that my caliper was seized on the driver's side. I appreciate your hard work and explanation.
Good info. I learned some things about brakes I didn't know before. I had a caliper lock up on my van a few years ago. I just bought a new one and it fixed it. I noticed a brake smell coming in the van and when I stopped at a store and got out, I saw smoke coming from under the left front fender. I knew what was wrong. Caliper not working. Watching you video tells me replacing the caliper might not have fixed the problem.
This guy is awesome, funny and knows what I was looking for to understand to fix my vehicle. Thank you
My truck had this exact symptom. The steering wobble seemed periodic, sometimes none at all. Couldn’t figure out what it was. Then I had to slam on my brakes for an ambulance going thru an intersection on a 55mph highway. When I began driving afterwards, the wobble was in full force, so much so that I pulled over. I waited about 5 min, then took an alternate (slower speed) route back home to avoid the highway speeds. I rolled down my windows to listen for any noises, and I could hear the sound of the brakes hissing (not grinding) as I drove. When I got home I could feel the heat from the passenger side front brake as I stood 5 feet away. And it was sunny, probably 85 degrees outside. I didn’t have a thermometer, so I tried to spit on each brake rotor. On the front driver side, the spit hit the rotor and sizzled. On the front passenger side, the spit evaporated before touching the rotor. So I changed out both front hoses, got some new pads, and did a full flush. (The rotors & calipers seemed okay.). She’s right as rain for now, but I had about 1/8” of pad left before metal on metal. I wish I could send pictures of the pads. I think that the dirty brake fluid caused the passenger side hose to have some type of one way clog. It would definitely get pressure to the brake, but would not allow it to release back to the reservoir. Very good (and pertinent) video btw!!
Bro I am impressed, what a video. I mean everything from diagnosis to spech delivery, pause, accent, sound, camera angle, attemp to repair, replacement etc all are excellent and god level.
Superb job god bless you
I got to admit you are a good teacher,you explain everything in detail so very clear.thank you
Excellent walk thru! I just recently had some issues with shimmy which turned out to be worn tire due to front end alignment. New tires and all’s well. I will however do a complete check after my shoulder surgery is healed. Thanks for a thorough explanation of possible problems.
Simple; drive a mile or two. If you feel a difference in the steering wheel. Pull over immediately and place your hand near the the center of the wheel. In comparison if one wheel to the other. If it’s warmer/hotter than the other. Then you have a dragging/seized caliper.
Or wheel bearing.
Or just replace the car 😒
10/10 best brake service video on TH-cam. Getting better every video 👍
I have this issue in my Chrysler.
Thank you! I now know what to look for to determine what side front or rear it is!🥰🤓
Same here. Same vehicle.
Also put your hand on your wheel. That’s another easy way to check
Len is the man! 💯
Great tutorial!!
Question: my steering wheel shacking only every time I hit my break. But it’s fine while driving.
Thanks
Thank Algo! For listening into my conversation. Yeah, I'll get it checked out.
Your hub nut could loosen. Had it happen on my jeep cherokee. I felt it right away driving onto the highway.
I went home and decided to rotate tires front to back. Soon as I pulled the front tire you could tell.
Apparently the torque broke free on the hub nut. The nut cover and cotter pin kept it from moving any further .
Just replaced both front hub assemblies and things have been alright.
Thank you thank you thank you!!! So good I understood everything and finally realize what it is that is wrong with my. Cadi. We just replaced the mounts on transition and engine and it’s still shaking! Then noticed the heat coming from one wheel, and basically this is our issue. We will be fixing it soon. Again, thank you so much for being so thorough and easy to follow!!
+EL FOR G Legacy Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Had the same issue (shaking steering wheel)…I simply replaced rotors and brakes. Fixed the problem.
+drteaisback Thanks for the feedback!
Perhaps a good to great addition to this video would be information on what we need to do to keep our brakes from suffering this condition in the first place if there is anything doable.
You are great, so much better than that other guy who always comes on first hyping a1auto, you are the real deal.
So I just recently experienced a very similar issue with my 2010 Chevy Equinox. I had just purchased it only 2 weeks prior with 132k miles. While driving early on, especially during cooler temps, nothing was noticed, but after abput 30 to 45 mins of driving and thus braking periodically, it would become nearly undrivable. I brought it to a local firestone service shop, but since it was a Saturday and they didn't have a certified technician on duty, a true inspection was possible. The following Monday, located a "Napa Auto Service Center" a couple blocks away whom agreed to inspect and repair same day(which was crucial in order to drive to work that same evening). Thing is though, about an hour prior to them opening, I found a video suggesting that if there was too much fluid in the reservoir, and the vent hole is clogged, it could cause the brakes to subsequently drag. So since inspection for too much fluid was so simple and quick, I did so. And yes, it did appear there was too much fluid. In fact, I wound up removing 100 cc's with a large syringe. And in doing so, I immediately noticed how abnormally greenish the color of the fluid was. Not truly understanding at the time what that actually indicated, I just replaced the cap, hopped in, and prayed the too much fluid fixed the brake drag. But NOPE! No such luck..... Fast forwarding, brought it to the Napa center an hour later(830am), explained everything to the owner, especially how I removed so much fluid, and how I was next to positive it was the front pass caliper due to the pungent odor billowing from there, along with the rim being covered by brake dust way more than the other rims. It qas then that he made a comment about how "It's most likely the brake hose being pinched or collapsed". I left the shop with the expectation it would only be a couple hundred bucks at most..... WRONG! And i need to add a couple more little details to fully drive my point home regarding this shop and its fraudulent owner..... So 1130 rolls around and since he said they were going to be performing a "full brake system inspection" that would cost $125 if I chose to not have any work done or they didn't find anything wrong (but I'm guessing this theif rarely if ever tells ANYONE there's nothing wrong when there actually isnt) because then he'd have to deal with someone wondering why he's charging nearly 10 times as much as any other shop for the same inspection. So at 1130, i still hadnt gotten a call from him regarding this full inspection and it's findings, and since they closed at 4, plus needing to leave for work by 430, I began getting worried/anxious that they weren't going to get to it as promised, thus having wasted the only free time I had for hopefully fixing this issue on my only means of transportation(which already caused 2 missed shifts already) soi called them. He said they were "literally about to pull it in" . Go fgr! So i onve again expressed concern regarding my time sensitivity issues..... It was only 23 mins later he texted an estimate for $587.99!!! And the form listed 1.2 hrs of labor to R-N-R caliper, .9 hrs for the brake hose (you know, the one he mentioned before even laying eyes on my vehicle) and $160 for the caliper itself, $93 for the hose, and $15 for whatever"other" is! I still haven't found a part gor my Equinox with the name of other! Oh, and $50 for a "system flush". Also, it said in the estimate that the pads would be replaced if found necessary but was included in the cost of the caliper charge. So altogether it was 2 hrs of labor at $109.99 per hr.... I called him and justified paying that ridiculous amount ONLY because they promised it to be done same day, plus with new pads, I would have paid around 300 myself had i chose to do it (which since I live on a really steep decline with on street parking in downtown Cincinnati thought it was worth it just to not lose my job and not have to rent a car or pay for ubers) When i called to approve the work, he said it would be fully ready by 2, only 2 hours away..... So when 145 rolls around, I call to see if everything is on schedule, and not only was he obviously bothered and rude by my asking, he said the parts had just arrived and they would be pulling it in next to begin. At 220 I get a text that my vehicle was ready! Only 35 mins later! 35 mins to fully flush, bleed, and replace all that!??? Ok! Whatever. I thought they wete supposed to be trustworthy, especially being backed by Napa! NNNOOOPPPPEEE! That was on April 15th. Well by April 27th, I begin having new issues with the rear drivers side caliper doing the same thing! I popped the hood, glanced at the brake fluid reservoir, opened the cap, and BBAAMMM! I immediately noticed the SAME GREEN FLUID! We all know new brake fluid (DOT 3 AND 4) is clear to amber! How in the world, if he did a full flush, would it still have the same dark green fluid!? It wouldn't! He clearly didn't flush it at all! Which led me to suspect him altogether. I mean, if he lied about the flush, what else did he lie about? Right!? I looked up the hose he charged me almost a hundred bucks for..... Only $15 on Napa's website for normal cinsumers, so you know he prolly only paid 5 or 10! He didmt change the pads! Plus the rotor got warped and glazed from all the extreme heat. My vehicle shakes when i apply the brakes now constantly. I confronted him and he tried convincing me that there's no way his mechanic wouldn't have left the same fluid, then changed his story to something about they used the diagnostic tool to bleed and flush the front caliper only. To which i replied " That's not a system flush then! That's just bleeding the caliper!" So after contacting a different more reputable shop, the mechanic there said he was supposed to have tested the old fluid for contamination especially with the green coloration because that's indicative of copper breaking down or water in the system. Both if which will undoubtedly ruin all the remaining components of my brake system if left untreated. So i am curious your thoughts, please? Especially with the new developments of new dragging with yet another caliper. Do you feel I have grounds to sue this dude? I mean, what if i now have to replace the entire system due to the contamination in the fluid that he lied about flushing? I really appreciate all your videos and information and I thank you if you read all this! Sorry so long! Hope to hear back.....
Warped brake rotors can cause a shake too in the steering wheel.
That’s true
@@drteaisback
Thanx for that will change those as well
Brakes rotors and calipers...how much would you estimate it would cost for an SUV? Your best opinion on prices in your experience. I have the same problem happen to me and the place I went to is charging me 930 for a Honda Pilot.
@@TheTSRush New mounting bracket and caliper w/hardware $126 each side, Brakes $35, Rotor $56 each side. I am replacing parts for a Chevy SUV Equinox 2011 with a frozen front caliper and slider pins.. My parts are from ACDelco. The honda part cost may be more....
Generally that will only be when you are applying the brakes. When applying the brakes and the steering wheel shakes typically it will be an issue with the front rotors are in a severe case maybe even a sway bar links especially on Dodge grand Caravan. The other thing to remember is that if you feel something shaking when you apply the brakes and it’s more “in your seat” it’s probably the rear brakes, rear brake rotors
LEN thanks for this video my 06 Honda Odyssey is doing the same thing.
Super, Duper Video, well Done, Lots of information, now I'm well late informed after I changed the CV Drive Axel for no reason, well 50/50 when I should just have just changed the CV Drive Axel's seal, after replacing it still has the same shaking issue when I brake but it's more clear coming up from the front the passenger's side❗😭❗Well another inspection for the next Weekend I guess❗😅❗
I had the feeling this was my issue and this confirms it for me even though I don't work on cars. Thank you for the easy to follow explanation!
+@ViiDuquette Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I learned a lot brother as always. The tools you used to push the piston, how does it call?
Replaced brake hoses and calipers last year. Sticking caliper finally went away. However the issue has came right back this year as it has gotten warmer. Perplexed....
dude, someone just ran into the front of my truck breaking a break line in the front so i replaced it and got it all bleed out. My truck was fine for a bit and didn't shake until i bleed the brakes. THANK YOU FOR THISSSSSSSSSSS!
Thanks so much. You save me a lot of Head aches and part's.
Absolutely love these videos. Very educational
Great video. Lots of good extra info about the whole system, not just the current issue. Thanks.
This was a great video. Thank you for taking the time. Do you have any videos on how you bleed brakes with a single person? I recently bought a pressure bleeder and have not used it yet
You start with the front driver side , then across to front passenger side , to rear passenger side and across to rear driver side. Good Luck
@@georgekish3462 you start at the furthest brake frome the master cylinder first and move till you get to the closest.
Check the workshop manual, newer cars have different bleeding procedure
I can get that seized caliper apart but I am old, and I know a few tricks. I pump grease into the caliper. Grease is not air. It will not compress. There is a second trick. Put the caliper in a plastic bag and then put the whole mess in the freezer. Often the piston will fall out with a gentle tap using a screwdriver and a hammer. AMAZING! Hone the bore in the caliper, a new piston + a rebuild kit and it's good as new.
My mas van shakes while braking.
Very uneven rotor wear on the back.
Gonna do a full brake job on it. My brothers did the job last time. I know they werent as thorough as i wouldve been.😂😂
Gonna get my ma to let me do it this next time. Thanks to my new found knowledge on brakes, i feel confident i can do a good job. 👍
Now i just gotta buy a bunch more toolz!!! Thats fun tho!
🎉🎉
Very informative video, and not only this video. All of his video are very informative. Thank you for doing this for us that are not a mechanic. More Power to you!
Thank you, very informative.
I am facing similar issue. Ordered a rebuilt kit, hopefully it will help. Caliper is aluminum 6 piston and cost about 2 grand to replace so will try to revive it first. I actually bought used caliper, cheapest on ebay, because it is safety issue, I want to study it before I touch thouse on the car.
I had that problem in my Tacoma- turned out some of the pistons were slower than the others. When you remove the pads, inspect them for any type of runout or uneven wear. If any of them are unlevel, reinstall them and get yourself a caliper rebuild kit before going any further - otherwise the runout will repeat on the new hardware, and will just happen again. Runout on the pads necessarily doesn't cause the rotors to become unlevel, but it could cause the wear tracks to not be concentric with the rotor..so the pad goes in and out of it. And that's what causes the steering or in my case the entire truck to shake during light braking.
I drove my truck for an entire year like that because I knew the brakes were safe with only 6 month old brakes and there was no steering pulling, and it didn't shake at all during medium or hard braking. Only during light braking.
Because the rotors are shiny metall, the temp reading won't be accurate (the number on the screen) but the difference between left and right can be trusted. To get a reliable reading you need to set the emissivity of the material you're testing
I have a 96 Toyota Avalon ,my wheel was shaking so bad. My mechanic said it’s probably the shocks or the axle. I said no it feels like it’s probably the brakes. The brake light came on so glad I watched your video. Thank you.❤
I love these videos and on this one in particular I learned something I'm gonna go out and get a temperature gauge now cause I do have a little vibration in the steering wheel which may be hurting my mpg.
Around 5 years ago, my Cherokee had me pulling to the side on the road. Unsafe on the highway. To find out, the one brake rotor was extremely hot and the other was cool to touch. Bad brake caliper
Amusing Tutorial..
Almost makes Changing A Bad Caliper Fun..
Expensive.. But fun..
Nice Work.. Always helpful..
Hi..Ive learn alot from your videos regarding car issues..Thanx a lot it really helps..
Love the movie magic in this one! Also the skeleton in the reflection of the bumper at the end. Thanks for keeping things entertaining and informative.
*Great video, I learned alot. My question is should I buy all the tools I don't have for a job i'll probably do once or pay a mechanic who already has the tools*
I'm not gonna lie the noises this dude was making when trying to move the calipers had me crying 😂
it is the best auto repair tips video. It is so funny and infrmative. I love 1A Auto.
Great job and yes it was the caliber I learned lots. It was good to follow you very easy thank you. I understand everything you said.
My 2004 Dodge Dakota has new calipers, brakes and rotors. We have experienced this after replacing the vacuum booster. I had bought everything down to all the tubing. Original steel lines are rusty and crusty.
We just changed the master cylinder yesterday and need to further troubleshoot.
thanks I had the same problem. But still has a bit of wheel shake. I also did a wheel rotation and seems to still shake a tad. thanks for the how too
I have the same issue on my Ford BA 2004 nice to know the answer that is what I came here to find out. Sydney Australia
Great video, but Sometimes its not just the caliper. Brake hoses can separate internally and form a check valve type condition, where you think its just the caliper and its not. Always best to replace the hoses w the caliper if the caliper appears to be seizing, The fluid goes in to the caliper but is slow-moving back when pressure is released. Also the smell of burning pads. The hoses typically separate internally if someone allows the caliper to just hang or puts a kink in the hose when removing the caliper or pads, just food for thought!
Len's the man. 👍
Man great job however I changed both the caliper, the rotor and the new pads and still have the pulsations while I am braking ???
I like how they are modernizing their channel :)
+Gameexpert1321 Thanks for the feedback!
I had this happen, finally figured out the brake hose collapsed internally causing fluid restriction. Almost gave up, was so close to calling a mobile mechanic.
+Fork cleaning station Thanks for the feedback!
Great video as usual. I’m wondering if you could help me with an issue I’ve been having with my car. For over a year now I’ve been trying to get my vehicle fixed but not the dealer or other mechanics have been able to figure out what the issue is. When I drive to 60 miles and over, the steering wheel shakes, not violently but noticeably and brakes shakes also. I’ve changed the rotors and brakes 4 times, that didn’t help. I’ve change the tires 3 times because the dealer said that’s the issue. I’ve change the axle on both sides didn’t fix the issue. I don’t know what else to try at this point , any suggestions please?
Excellent video. I'm having that problem with my mustang,
Simply superb explanation 🇮🇳👏👏👏👏👏
Great explanation. The best diy vehicle website.
Good video I like how you explain step-by-step I just change all the breaks and disc and drums on my Toyota Tundra but I feel some vibration when I press the break pedal is the normal?
Nice video, Thankyou. Also, I make the exact noises when working on cars.
Thanks for all these videos. Good stuff.
Ive been chasing a problem like this on my 2015 honda civic si since like a year after i got it brand new. Ive replaced everything at this point and im hoping this caliper and brake line job im about to do will finally fix it
how'd it go?
I been driving on bad stuck back passenger caliber for about a yr in my 05 Acura RL.
This is a PITA problem to have in a way because the symptoms usually point to unbalanced wheels, bad CV joint or bad wheel bearings.
When checking out my car to see if my wheel bearing was bad I noticed the brake caliper was able to move a little where as the side I figured was not the issue ( due to the wheel not being extremely hot after driving) the brake caliper was solid and I couldn’t move it.
My confusion was that I had replaced everything in the brake system except the hoses on all 4 corners with brand new parts.
I love it!!! Thank you for the sense of humor in this video
Useful information. Thank you
I've had this issue with 2 of my cars and it's pretty scary when your car start shaking like crazy
what was the solution ?
The struggle is real! 😅
Love how he explains the issues.
+Lissa Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Going to be buying all my car parts from 1A auto… great videos
How often should the brake fluid be replaced in a vehicle . not something people really do you know. just wondering . Ive got a 8 year Chevy Silverado with 43,000 miles on it .
There is a brake fluid test kit that will tell you if your fluid is still good or not. You can also look at it, if it is a dark color that would be a good indication to go ahead and flush it.
I have a 06 Chevrolet Silverado,and between 50 and 60 when I start to break the back of the truck feels like its bouncing up And down where should I start and what do you think the problem is?? HElP
Loved it brother Nice trouble shooting a lot of details to the brakes
Excellent video and information
Interesting video. Thanks for posting.
wow i havent drove my truck in 2 days and was looking up why my truck is shaking come to find out i find a huge bulge on my front tire thinking it was somethin else glad i saw this
This is EXACTLY what my car is doing right now!
Any one with advice would be greatly appreciated.
Question: a week ago I got my brake pads replaced no rotors just pads. Ever since then my steering wheel has been shaking horribly while driving and while braking. Is it possible that the mechanic seized my caliper due to not installing the new pads correctly? I returned and they said my brake hoses were bad. They replaced those and still …shaking. I’m not sure if he took the brake fluid cap off before compressing the caliper. But my car didn’t shake at all before he put the new pads in.
This helped me a lot my car vibrate. The seat and he bake of my car feel like my car is going to break in half its in the car shop now...but that you for you great video...
Thanks bro. Very detailed & informative. Learnt alot
Excellent clip extremely informative
Replaced rotors and pads. Only have a shake with heavy breaking. Do you think it could be a bad caliper or possibly unvalaced tires
Clear, straight, very well explained. Thank you.
I have a 2008 E350 146K miles with utility body, SRW, 2WD and am around 9,000 lb.. I have a heat issue (I think). The wheel bearings are good, the brakes have been bled w/high temp synthetic, FL caliper recently replaced but the front hubs, not the rotors, are about 175-180 and the rear around 130 after 20-30 min moderate city driving. The temps are within a couple of degrees side to side. Any thoughts?
Why did you not push the piston inwards with a G klamp to unstuck it??
I've never met a caliper piston that wouldn't be easily removed with a grease gun... replace the bleeder with a zerk fitting.