Looks a lot like my 20yo car's brake calipers. She's been nursed along for the last 5 years with annual cleaning and lube of the sliders when the tires get switched but this year, she is getting all new coated calipers, rotors and shoes. Be good for another 20 years ;)
One thing I learned rebuilding a caliper piston is to not let the pedal go all the way to the floor. I went through several master cylinders (the NAPA guy at the counter thought they were bad masters) before I was told by a brake mechanic after explaining my issue, he said 'you're blowing your master cylinder seal when you go all the way to the floor, put a brick or block of wood behind the pedal to stop it from traveling all the way to the floor.' Sure enough by doing that it didn't blow out and was able to unfreeze both front calipers with those kits saving several hundred dollars.
I really appreciated how you took the time to show what proper performance in a caliper would really look like and what poor performance looks like. This is the first video where the poster didn't assume that the audience would know what good and bad performance in a caliper looks like.
This is the best complete and concise DIY on wheel stiffness cause I've found on the Internet. I had an issue with occasional noise and heat from one wheel hub. I thought initially it was bearing (only has 60,000 miles on new bearing) but then determined it was sticky brake caliper. Bravo!
With brake parts that look and function like that and with the relative low expense of all new parts, caliper, rotor, bracket, pads it just make more sense to buy and replace with new parts. I mean we are talking about brakes and the safety issue involved. I'm talking from over 50 years of experience of replacing, and dealing with brakes of all types. This video was good from the standpoint of showing how disc brakes work, which is nice for those who never saw this or didn't know how they worked.
Sorry, but I disagree. While the brakes may look old and rusty, all that matters is if the cylinder bore is in decent shape and the rubber parts are renewed.
great video, you went directly through the process, didn.t waste time on chatter, and explained the problem and the solution. Basically this video gets to the point and doesn't make you sit for 45 mins to see the results, thank you.
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
Thanks for taking the time to post your experience. I have the EXACT issue with my 2000 Accord as you had with your Chevy: The caliper will not retract after the brakes get hot. Before I found this video I performed the same repair to the piston, followed by a complete brake job for prudence sake. Immediately after a test drive the calipers would not retract and the wheel would seize.
@@lothianmcadam1 has your issue not been rectified. If not then you need to sand down the pistons further as in my case, I tasted success only on the 4th attempt at sanding down the pistons.
This man showed yall how to fix ya car's seized brakes for THREE DOLLHAIRS and you're all jumping to criticize! Good on him, man's a real fixer not a parts cannon operator. And now he's still got the money he saved on those calipers.
That screw and plate tool is so cool. I was struggling to get a piston open and never thought of something like this. I came for a bite of knowledge and I'm leaving with a full belly. Thank you!
Nice video. You are the first presenter that I have seen who addresses the grinding of the tabs of the brake pads to insure movement. When I got my Nissan X terra, every time that I needed new pads this was a critical part of the process. Just did a brake job on the vehicle and I still have some brake noise. I rebuilt the last set of calipers, so now I will swap out the current with the rebuilt then rebuild this set for future use. I prefer to work on the bench rather than on the vehicle.
this is amazing! I'll remember it for my next brake job. I generally don't mind spending the money on a new caliper, but if I can save a pile of money, I'll happily do that instead!
EXCELLENT.. The best kind of video.. punchy, straight to the point, absolutely NO EXCESS waffle or meaningless intro which I hate ! Most US clips start with at least 2mins of obvious chat like " today, the weather's fine, so I'm gonna get to work on this here ole car blah blah" .. cut to the chase FGS. .and thankfully, you did.
@@carlosspiceyweiner3835 Highly doubt it being the hoses. I replace them if they start to get dried out and show signs of cracking. I have 20yo (360km) and 30yo (120km) vehicles and they are still fine. The 30yo went through a safety check 3 years ago and passed with flying colours. Replacing hoses can get ugly so why do it if it's not necessary?
I just replaced brakes that were worn all the way down to metal pad. Caliper looked fine, compressed very easy. Moved in and out smoothly but would cause brake to drag when brake was released. After playing with this for a couple days I just replaced the caliper, but never saw anything wrong with it. Problem is now gone. Seems like the piston would only stick when under a load but when caliper was off vehicle worked perfectly.
Soemtimes piston will only stick when they get warm. Tiny amount of sticking and/or usign the brakes creates heat, which causes more sticking. It's a vicious circle. I'have had cars where the wheel was almost too hot to touch after a drive but next day jac the car up and all is free. New piston or calliper is the only fix really.
I have been a mechanic for years. I do not recommend using brake lube on the the pad ears, but instead under the shims that the pads slide on. The issue that happens over time is the uncoated steel under the shim rusts and expands, pushing on the shims/pads making them tight. The proper solution is remove the shims, clean the rust, grease where the shim goes, then reinstall shims. This prevents the rust buildup under the shim. The shims always seem to be stainless steel in my experience and dont rust, pads slide easily across them without lube. The lube on pads can attract dirt and grime and be counter productive. I have not seen any new cars where the manufacturer greased the pad ears, but they do grease the slider pins obviously.
100 %. , so in vid he grinds pad ears down lol. NO NO NO remove abutment clips and clean and lube underneath them if not they will rust jack yer pads from moving ,
@@TheCaperfish Yeah with high quality brands/pads/hardware you shouldnt have to grind pad ears to fit good. Sometimes the cheaper pads are not made as well with more variance in dimensions though.
So if the caliber is clean and you install new clips and the pad is tight on the bracket maybe the pads are a little to big I do grind the pad down a few times. Master tech working at the largest dealership in the Minneapolis area
Take a wire brush to the caliper bracket and spray with brake cleaner. Use Syl-Glyde for guide pins. ALWAYS lube under the shims AND the ears with antiseize. Auto Technician since 1994
Was looking how big a job it would be to rebuild. Very informative video thank you so much. It’s helped even if only to show me that it’s not worth the time and effort when a new calliper is £35
Told the wife her caliper was frozen she send me a video of a link to repair and rebuild a caliper. I sent her the address to the Autoparts store and told her the caliper is waiting for her at the counter.
Never knew about having play in the pads & the clips that hold em in. Just did my brakes yesterday and it was a snug fit in the clips. Going to take everything off tomorrow and make it right. Thanks for the great video.
I suspect my RR caliper is seized, I've been noticing some squealing and I'm just praying I don't need to replace more than that. Excellent video, helped calm some of my nerves about this. I'm probably going to go check it out in a little bit while there's still daylight, and I'll check some of the easier ones as I'm still a novice (I'm an absolute tool, but as is the case with tools, at least I'm still useful!). Thank you so much for this short video!
Great work! I'm so glad I found this. Great to see every detail and with speed, and the reality that everyone doesn't have money to just get a rebuilt caliper where they do the exact same thing and charge you $80+.
@@calwatch1496 for example and to remove unnecessary steps; like replacing all 4 brake pads at the same time, might be ideal but life isn't ideal and the calipers adjust so it ultimately matter. Some people might only have 3 bucks and etc.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I have this EXACT problem on a 2000 Accord--same wheel! After I replaced both seals the wheel STILL seizes after a test drive, immediately after the brakes get hot. I've done this same job twice, completely replaced the brake fluid, and performed a complete brake job, and the caliper will not retract after the brakes get hot.
I too, like some of the other folks commenting, feel like a new caliper makes much more sense here. I would just go for a rotor, pads, calipers, bracket, and call it a day. Easily less than an hour of work per side, more money, but its all set for another decade with periodic checks in between. Just my opinion. Interesting video though, very good information and alternative.
I had a nightmare similar. In the end it was the rubber hose itself breaking down internally that caused a check valve effect where it took a minute (or so) for enough fluid to return to release the brake caliper pressure, whereas pressured was instant. New hose, no more problem.
I see mechanics going 50/50 on using brake grease on the pad ears. Bendix recommends using grease on top of the clips (shims are actually what you used to put on the back of the pads) in their TH-cam video, Bendix Brake Pad Installation. I use a wire wheel where the pad clips attach to the caliper bracket and use brake parts cleaner to remove every bit of rust. Then put a little ceramic brake grease where they contact the bracket and use a little on top of the clips like in the Bendix video. I also like to remove the slide pins, flush the hole with brake cleaner and blow out with compressed air, clean and lubricate the pins with Sil-Glyde. Make sure the top of the pistons are clean but be careful about damaging the boots or damaging the pistons if they are phenolic, not metal. Most quality modern pads don't require adding anything to the back to quiet them, they are pre-shimmed. Also very important to check the hoses if the brakes have been sticking. The 3 main reasons for sticking brakes are stuck pins, stuck pistons or bad hoses that have collapsed on the inside.
If I was going to all that trouble I would take that rusted scaling falling to pieces to Caliper and apply RUST CONVERTER then paint it. You would have a brand new setup. However, I'm not the one who made a great video. Great job. Lot of work and good explanation.
What a great video. I do the same on old rusty Motorcycles.. Except I only clean everything out I rarely get new seals (They get pretty expensive and if the originals are good, I keep em) I would have definitly removed the caliper for cleaning on the bench instead
Awesome, my Ford is giving me a brake that feels like a piston issue. Now, after watching your video, it will be a piece of cake diagnosing it. Thank you
I rebuilt a brake with silicone lubricant spray and ruined it. The piston came out nicely but had no slip-back. The seal was sliding too easily so the brake wasn’t releasing. I had to replace the piston bug using just brake fluid and red rubbed grease was the correct way to go.
yoooo....that's A LOT of rust on that rotor, especially those brake pads that's as a Hot N' Ready cardboard pizza. 😂 Nontheless, thank you for sharing this video with us!
Hi Thanks for the post , is that AWD Honda, Coz i have same situation for my Subaru outback , The Rear wheels are very tight to sping when thyey are jacked up in Parking ,
@4:35 In my, admittedly limited, experience, getting that boot installed completely into the groove is Way harder than you make it look (a critical step to keep water out). Also the pits you saw, and buffing the piston (will reduce the diameter and max pressure before leakage) both can allow leakage into the boot which could eventually blow it out. All this together means I'd rebuild another caliper if new is unavailable.
I disagree. Reducing the outside diameter of the piston won't affect it at all because it's the rubber O-ring that makes contact with the bore, not the piston. The only thing that would hurt would be if you reduced the diameter of the piston groove.
@@ronmoore6598 I'm not talking about the bore. You said, "Also the pits you saw, and buffing the piston (will reduce the diameter and max pressure before leakage) both can allow leakage..." Buffing the piston resulting in a reduced diameter will not allow leakage because the piston doesn't contact the bore. The rubber O-ring does. If the diameter of the rubber O-ring was reduced (most likely through wear), THAT would allow leakage.
@@frankhoward7645 Yeah, but if you're buffing the piston with, say, a Beartek pad, it can easily remove enough material to make a flat (or flatter) spot on the piston, which the O-ring can ride over or produce lower pressure against, allowing leakage into the boot and possible blow out. You do you, but, again, with something as important as brake it doesn't seem worth the risk to me.
I use an instant read thermometer to initially determine if I have a dragging brake. After driving, touch an instant read thermometer to opposing disks and see what the temps are. One that’s dragging will be much hotter. A shimmy in the front wheels while driving down the road will often indicate a dragging brake also.
Had the same issue (front left) but fully released it by opening the line. Replacing the master cyl. cured it. But don't know how it could make only one caliper drag. 2 days later an identical year, make, model truck had the same problem and cure. 2006 Chevy HD2500
I have always had problems with sticking brakes on the passenger side front wheels . I have drove some beaters (beaders) but most had low miles . I am hard on brakes . On my Dodge diesel I am on a second new set caliper and the b**** just started sticking again after 5000 miles ,I changed U joints ,bearing, roaters, brakes, and calipers this last go round. Brake hoses?
brillant to watch,my fiesta 2003 ,2days ago started slowing fast when going bumper to bumper in traffic and more brake dust was on my wheels ,capliers it must be ,the seal dont pulled the piston back in the caplier,,,,,,,,,so il just replace whole caplier ,,,,if u lived near,id pay uou to replace as you know your stuff more than me
Define serviced. Salt is hard on cars. Especially caliper pistons and uncoated rotors. If you change brake fluid ever year or two, MAYBE it would prevent seized pistons from rust, i just don't have the data to track that. I think brake fluid should be changed every year, it is super cheap. And a little antiseize on bleeder screw threads keeps them from seizing👍
It has nothing to do with brake fluid. Brake service is taking the brakes apart - take out the pads, caliper, bracket. Remove all hardware and clean up all the rust. For bonus points remove the rotor and clean behind it as well. Unlike this guy, if the pad doesn't quite fit, don't grind the ears. What you probably need to do is clean up your bracket because it has rust build up. Then things should be nice and smooth. The only exception is if you got cheap hardware and the sizing is whacky
@@andreipiv You have accurately captured the definition of brake service. I think that is why American brand vehicles are targeted as poor built quality, I think a big percentage has to do more stringent service intervals on Japanese vehicles that is why they are more reliable. Both continents have duds and it is weeding out the crap and taking the cream puffs.
Yes- I agree this is a great video on how to diagnose and repair, but I also would have just put a new caliper on that due to it's condition. (That one set of pad were wasted to the bare metal!) Still, good to see how to do it IF you chose to.
Piston is retracted by piston O-ring. It slightly twists when force is applied and when untwisting it pushes piston slightly back and prevents brake drag. Worn O-ring doesn't work so well as has rounded edges. So everything should be smooth. You should be able to push piston back by hand(use a handle) without need for special tool. If special tool is needed O-ring or piston is bad.
On my RAM 1500, it feels like I'm pulling a small trailer, and the truck will slow to a stop when I let off the gas. After coming to a stop, when I slowly gas up to pull away, there is a momentary sound like groaning - like a brake dragging, but the wheels spin as well as the one in this video. In other words, there is some hissing contact noise, and the wheel does not free spin, but I can turn it like in the vid. So, I assume my calipers are good? Any other ideas on why the truck feels like it's pulling a trailer, runs at higher rpm, and a lower gear on the hiway, and coasts to a stop without braking from arterial speeds?
Thanks man, I might have to take one of the pistons out on my front driver caliper. It’s a dual piston and the bottom one is seized. Didn’t know you could just pop them out like that
You win the award for Best Edited Video. Not a second wasted with gibberish. I didn't have to fast-forward like I do for most videos.
Excellent presentation. No muss. No fuss. Thanks for not wasting any time or bombarding us with crap music / intros / egos! Good work Bro.
Brake hose on that side
That whole set-up appears to be on it's final days.
Set-up is about to Break-Up
You must be from California or Florida. By Chicago standards that bad boy is just getting started
@@matth4784 Fluid Film the crap out of it once a year if you wanna keep it long term.
"nice and smooth"
Looks a lot like my 20yo car's brake calipers. She's been nursed along for the last 5 years with annual cleaning and lube of the sliders when the tires get switched but this year, she is getting all new coated calipers, rotors and shoes. Be good for another 20 years ;)
One thing I learned rebuilding a caliper piston is to not let the pedal go all the way to the floor. I went through several master cylinders (the NAPA guy at the counter thought they were bad masters) before I was told by a brake mechanic after explaining my issue, he said 'you're blowing your master cylinder seal when you go all the way to the floor, put a brick or block of wood behind the pedal to stop it from traveling all the way to the floor.' Sure enough by doing that it didn't blow out and was able to unfreeze both front calipers with those kits saving several hundred dollars.
Good point thank you
I really appreciated how you took the time to show what proper performance in a caliper would really look like and what poor performance looks like. This is the first video where the poster didn't assume that the audience would know what good and bad performance in a caliper looks like.
This is the best complete and concise DIY on wheel stiffness cause I've found on the Internet. I had an issue with occasional noise and heat from one wheel hub. I thought initially it was bearing (only has 60,000 miles on new bearing) but then determined it was sticky brake caliper. Bravo!
@@calwatch1496 it actually ended up being a stuck caliper and the bearing lol
With brake parts that look and function like that and with the relative low expense of all new parts, caliper, rotor, bracket, pads it just make more sense to buy and replace with new parts. I mean we are talking about brakes and the safety issue involved. I'm talking from over 50 years of experience of replacing, and dealing with brakes of all types. This video was good from the standpoint of showing how disc brakes work, which is nice for those who never saw this or didn't know how they worked.
Absolutely agree with you . Brakes and steering are not the place to cut corners.
@@donziperk Rebuilding your caliper is probably better than buying all this new crap from china.
I agree, the time you spent on repairs ,better to get new parts!
Sorry, but I disagree. While the brakes may look old and rusty, all that matters is if the cylinder bore is in decent shape and the rubber parts are renewed.
Yeah, I am not putting that crap back in a vehicle… would not re-use any of those parts and there were literally no brakes left either… 😅😅
great video, you went directly through the process, didn.t waste time on chatter, and explained the problem and the solution. Basically this video gets to the point and doesn't make you sit for 45 mins to see the results, thank you.
Absolutely. No crap music or shouty people. Just the facts. Rare!
Amen!
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
Interesting story
Thanks for taking the time to post your experience. I have the EXACT issue with my 2000 Accord as you had with your Chevy: The caliper will not retract after the brakes get hot. Before I found this video I performed the same repair to the piston, followed by a complete brake job for prudence sake. Immediately after a test drive the calipers would not retract and the wheel would seize.
@@lothianmcadam1 has your issue not been rectified. If not then you need to sand down the pistons further as in my case, I tasted success only on the 4th attempt at sanding down the pistons.
I really appreciate your approach. Straight to the point but also including all the information you need
for those of you watching, this is a WHOLE day affair, sometimes just worth it to get a new caliper.
I agree. In case there's a broken seal/rubber or any corrosion is found - a new caliper is almost always a better choice.
1 maybe 2 hours if you have the correct polishing tools
Unless you have a Land Rover, and no one but a stealership will sell you front calipers for grossly overinflated prices.
@@livestock9722 ahaha land rover is def the exception. Not a ford or a civic
@@MartinX192 It depends on what type of rust and how deep it goes. Anything below surface rust is a big no-no.
This man showed yall how to fix ya car's seized brakes for THREE DOLLHAIRS and you're all jumping to criticize! Good on him, man's a real fixer not a parts cannon operator. And now he's still got the money he saved on those calipers.
Man the pacing of this video is great. Quick simple explanation and presentation.
That screw and plate tool is so cool. I was struggling to get a piston open and never thought of something like this. I came for a bite of knowledge and I'm leaving with a full belly. Thank you!
Nice video. You are the first presenter that I have seen who addresses the grinding of the tabs of the brake pads to insure movement. When I got my Nissan X terra, every time that I needed new pads this was a critical part of the process. Just did a brake job on the vehicle and I still have some brake noise. I rebuilt the last set of calipers, so now I will swap out the current with the rebuilt then rebuild this set for future use. I prefer to work on the bench rather than on the vehicle.
this is amazing! I'll remember it for my next brake job. I generally don't mind spending the money on a new caliper, but if I can save a pile of money, I'll happily do that instead!
EXCELLENT.. The best kind of video.. punchy, straight to the point, absolutely NO EXCESS waffle or meaningless intro which I hate !
Most US clips start with at least 2mins of obvious chat like " today, the weather's fine, so I'm gonna get to work on this here ole car blah blah" .. cut to the chase FGS. .and thankfully, you did.
Be very careful when pumping out the piston completely. Worst case is it'll smash your fingers if the pressure is high enough.
why the fuck would you have your fingers in the way?
I believe that's only if you use compressed air to drive out the piston.
Just stick something in the caliper where the brake pads would be and shoot some air where the brake line would go.
Fixed 100s during my working days. Rebuilt calipers where pretty cheap and a quick fix. The sliders are often overlooked.
guy thinks brakes are fine?
crazy
Looking at the caliper and rotors, I as an amateur mechanic would have bitten the bullet and replaced everything from the brake hoses out.
hoses cannot last more than 15 years or 125,000 miles. And they can be the reason your pads will not release
@@carlosspiceyweiner3835 Highly doubt it being the hoses. I replace them if they start to get dried out and show signs of cracking. I have 20yo (360km) and 30yo (120km) vehicles and they are still fine. The 30yo went through a safety check 3 years ago and passed with flying colours. Replacing hoses can get ugly so why do it if it's not necessary?
I just replaced brakes that were worn all the way down to metal pad. Caliper looked fine, compressed very easy. Moved in and out smoothly but would cause brake to drag when brake was released. After playing with this for a couple days I just replaced the caliper, but never saw anything wrong with it. Problem is now gone. Seems like the piston would only stick when under a load but when caliper was off vehicle worked perfectly.
Soemtimes piston will only stick when they get warm. Tiny amount of sticking and/or usign the brakes creates heat, which causes more sticking. It's a vicious circle. I'have had cars where the wheel was almost too hot to touch after a drive but next day jac the car up and all is free. New piston or calliper is the only fix really.
Excellent video. Lots of great information and no useless filler.
I have been a mechanic for years. I do not recommend using brake lube on the the pad ears, but instead under the shims that the pads slide on. The issue that happens over time is the uncoated steel under the shim rusts and expands, pushing on the shims/pads making them tight. The proper solution is remove the shims, clean the rust, grease where the shim goes, then reinstall shims. This prevents the rust buildup under the shim. The shims always seem to be stainless steel in my experience and dont rust, pads slide easily across them without lube. The lube on pads can attract dirt and grime and be counter productive. I have not seen any new cars where the manufacturer greased the pad ears, but they do grease the slider pins obviously.
100 %. , so in vid he grinds pad ears down lol. NO NO NO remove abutment clips and clean and lube underneath them if not they will rust jack yer pads from moving ,
@@TheCaperfish Yeah with high quality brands/pads/hardware you shouldnt have to grind pad ears to fit good. Sometimes the cheaper pads are not made as well with more variance in dimensions though.
So if the caliber is clean and you install new clips and the pad is tight on the bracket maybe the pads are a little to big I do grind the pad down a few times. Master tech working at the largest dealership in the Minneapolis area
Interesting. I never heard that before about lube and i've done hundreds of brake jobs. I will try that next time under hardware and not on the ears.
Take a wire brush to the caliper bracket and spray with brake cleaner. Use Syl-Glyde for guide pins. ALWAYS lube under the shims AND the ears with antiseize.
Auto Technician since 1994
Superb editing! I learned more in 5 minutes than i used to in a whole day of school. Cheers.
Excellent diagnostic explanation. Thank you!
Nice! And Concise! I like that you're to-the-point.
Wow, very thorough and concise. Thank you for such a good video.
My brother in Christ, you are driving on iron dust and prayers. Replace everything as soon as possible
Was looking how big a job it would be to rebuild. Very informative video thank you so much. It’s helped even if only to show me that it’s not worth the time and effort when a new calliper is £35
Told the wife her caliper was frozen she send me a video of a link to repair and rebuild a caliper. I sent her the address to the Autoparts store and told her the caliper is waiting for her at the counter.
Never knew about having play in the pads & the clips that hold em in. Just did my brakes yesterday and it was a snug fit in the clips. Going to take everything off tomorrow and make it right. Thanks for the great video.
They should be a sung fit If you have play that's how you get brake squeal.
Extraordinary detail !
Super helpful !!
I learned lots !!!
Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥 🧰
Brisk to the point editing, real world solutions. Perfect vid.
I suspect my RR caliper is seized, I've been noticing some squealing and I'm just praying I don't need to replace more than that. Excellent video, helped calm some of my nerves about this. I'm probably going to go check it out in a little bit while there's still daylight, and I'll check some of the easier ones as I'm still a novice (I'm an absolute tool, but as is the case with tools, at least I'm still useful!).
Thank you so much for this short video!
Excellent! Very well explained and demonstrated Thank you!
Love this video. Love the tips
Great work! I'm so glad I found this. Great to see every detail and with speed, and the reality that everyone doesn't have money to just get a rebuilt caliper where they do the exact same thing and charge you $80+.
@@calwatch1496 for example and to remove unnecessary steps; like replacing all 4 brake pads at the same time, might be ideal but life isn't ideal and the calipers adjust so it ultimately matter. Some people might only have 3 bucks and etc.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I have this EXACT problem on a 2000 Accord--same wheel! After I replaced both seals the wheel STILL seizes after a test drive, immediately after the brakes get hot. I've done this same job twice, completely replaced the brake fluid, and performed a complete brake job, and the caliper will not retract after the brakes get hot.
Awesome video. Thanks for the help!
I appreciate the video. Thanks for making it.
Thanks for the video , well done for taking the time.
I too, like some of the other folks commenting, feel like a new caliper makes much more sense here. I would just go for a rotor, pads, calipers, bracket, and call it a day. Easily less than an hour of work per side, more money, but its all set for another decade with periodic checks in between. Just my opinion. Interesting video though, very good information and alternative.
I had a nightmare similar. In the end it was the rubber hose itself breaking down internally that caused a check valve effect where it took a minute (or so) for enough fluid to return to release the brake caliper pressure, whereas pressured was instant. New hose, no more problem.
thanks, i will remember this for the future
I’ve had this same problem twice. A simple solution but only after a mechanic friend suggested the problem.
Sneaky! Well found.
I see mechanics going 50/50 on using brake grease on the pad ears. Bendix recommends using grease on top of the clips (shims are actually what you used to put on the back of the pads) in their TH-cam video, Bendix Brake Pad Installation. I use a wire wheel where the pad clips attach to the caliper bracket and use brake parts cleaner to remove every bit of rust. Then put a little ceramic brake grease where they contact the bracket and use a little on top of the clips like in the Bendix video. I also like to remove the slide pins, flush the hole with brake cleaner and blow out with compressed air, clean and lubricate the pins with Sil-Glyde. Make sure the top of the pistons are clean but be careful about damaging the boots or damaging the pistons if they are phenolic, not metal. Most quality modern pads don't require adding anything to the back to quiet them, they are pre-shimmed. Also very important to check the hoses if the brakes have been sticking. The 3 main reasons for sticking brakes are stuck pins, stuck pistons or bad hoses that have collapsed on the inside.
Great detailed video..😊
Nice video and analysis.
If I was going to all that trouble I would take that rusted scaling falling to pieces to Caliper and apply RUST CONVERTER
then paint it. You would have a brand new setup.
However, I'm not the one who made a great video. Great job. Lot of work and good explanation.
Sand blast them first, then paint and rebuild. 😎
Excellent video.
Straight forward thank you. Didn't get a story teller about how his goat ate his roses.
underated channel bro i live in northen quebec my shit cant last.... great video straight to the f point
No messing about, great video
lifesaver! thank you
Very informative and a useful video.
Thank you for making this
What a great video. I do the same on old rusty Motorcycles.. Except I only clean everything out I rarely get new seals (They get pretty expensive and if the originals are good, I keep em) I would have definitly removed the caliper for cleaning on the bench instead
Nice video thanks for this. This truck seen better days.
Great video man well done
Awesome, my Ford is giving me a brake that feels like a piston issue. Now, after watching your video, it will be a piece of cake diagnosing it. Thank you
a really helpful video ; well explained ..tks
Great video, thanks!
Great video learned a lot thanks ☘🤙🕊🙏
well done. Nice editing to make it concise.
I rebuilt a brake with silicone lubricant spray and ruined it. The piston came out nicely but had no slip-back. The seal was sliding too easily so the brake wasn’t releasing. I had to replace the piston bug using just brake fluid and red rubbed grease was the correct way to go.
You should be the only man making car tutorial videos
Thank you so much for your video! Helped me complete my brake pad job! You are Awesome! 🫡👏🙌
Awesome video!!!!
Step 1: throw the caliper in the garbage
yoooo....that's A LOT of rust on that rotor, especially those brake pads that's as a Hot N' Ready cardboard pizza. 😂 Nontheless, thank you for sharing this video with us!
Very nice thanks 👍
Awesome, thanks!
4:40. I ALWAYS apply anti-seize to the bleeder screw threads for obvious reasons. Had too many break off!
Super helpful
Nice and smooth
Is there one size for cars for the rebuild kit? I notice you had a Honda. I had a similar issue with a Lincoln. Thx
Hi Thanks for the post , is that AWD Honda, Coz i have same situation for my Subaru outback , The Rear wheels are very tight to sping when thyey are jacked up in Parking ,
@4:35 In my, admittedly limited, experience, getting that boot installed completely into the groove is Way harder than you make it look (a critical step to keep water out). Also the pits you saw, and buffing the piston (will reduce the diameter and max pressure before leakage) both can allow leakage into the boot which could eventually blow it out.
All this together means I'd rebuild another caliper if new is unavailable.
They're like 40 bucks in Biden Money
I disagree. Reducing the outside diameter of the piston won't affect it at all because it's the rubber O-ring that makes contact with the bore, not the piston. The only thing that would hurt would be if you reduced the diameter of the piston groove.
@@frankhoward7645 if there is a pit or a low spot there's still a chance of leakage. Not worth it on something as important as breaks.
@@ronmoore6598 I'm not talking about the bore. You said, "Also the pits you saw, and buffing the piston (will reduce the diameter and max pressure before leakage) both can allow leakage..." Buffing the piston resulting in a reduced diameter will not allow leakage because the piston doesn't contact the bore. The rubber O-ring does. If the diameter of the rubber O-ring was reduced (most likely through wear), THAT would allow leakage.
@@frankhoward7645 Yeah, but if you're buffing the piston with, say, a Beartek pad, it can easily remove enough material to make a flat (or flatter) spot on the piston, which the O-ring can ride over or produce lower pressure against, allowing leakage into the boot and possible blow out. You do you, but, again, with something as important as brake it doesn't seem worth the risk to me.
Very informative video, good job. But for me, I would replace it with a new one instead.
I use an instant read thermometer to initially determine if I have a dragging brake. After driving, touch an instant read thermometer to opposing disks and see what the temps are. One that’s dragging will be much hotter. A shimmy in the front wheels while driving down the road will often indicate a dragging brake also.
Rebuild your entire brake system. It's old, rusty, and ugly
Had the same issue (front left) but fully released it by opening the line. Replacing the master cyl. cured it. But don't know how it could make only one caliper drag. 2 days later an identical year, make, model truck had the same problem and cure. 2006 Chevy HD2500
I don't miss working on Rustbelt cars... good information, though.
I have always had problems with sticking brakes on the passenger side front wheels .
I have drove some beaters (beaders) but most had low miles .
I am hard on brakes .
On my Dodge diesel I am on a second new set caliper and the b**** just started sticking again after 5000 miles ,I changed U joints ,bearing, roaters, brakes, and calipers this last go round.
Brake hoses?
Nice one!
When you remove the caliper (or brake hose) to work, what about the leaking fluid? What if the leak empty the reservoir? Or goes down too low? Thx
I learned more than what I came here for 💪🏿💪🏿
Great job great video!short and simple video !!!! Every word that came of mans mouth was worth 100$
This guy is a beast
brillant to watch,my fiesta 2003 ,2days ago started slowing fast when going bumper to bumper in traffic and more brake dust was on my wheels ,capliers it must be ,the seal dont pulled the piston back in the caplier,,,,,,,,,so il just replace whole caplier ,,,,if u lived near,id pay uou to replace as you know your stuff more than me
Great. Job.
This is great example of neglected brake service in the rust belt. Folks, at least every couple years get your brakes serviced front and rear.
Define serviced. Salt is hard on cars. Especially caliper pistons and uncoated rotors. If you change brake fluid ever year or two, MAYBE it would prevent seized pistons from rust, i just don't have the data to track that. I think brake fluid should be changed every year, it is super cheap. And a little antiseize on bleeder screw threads keeps them from seizing👍
It has nothing to do with brake fluid. Brake service is taking the brakes apart - take out the pads, caliper, bracket. Remove all hardware and clean up all the rust. For bonus points remove the rotor and clean behind it as well.
Unlike this guy, if the pad doesn't quite fit, don't grind the ears. What you probably need to do is clean up your bracket because it has rust build up. Then things should be nice and smooth. The only exception is if you got cheap hardware and the sizing is whacky
@@andreipiv You have accurately captured the definition of brake service.
I think that is why American brand vehicles are targeted as poor built quality, I think a big percentage has to do more stringent service intervals on Japanese vehicles that is why they are more reliable. Both continents have duds and it is weeding out the crap and taking the cream puffs.
I'm from Boston, the salt is brutal here... I always tear down my brakes to clean and relube once a year. Never had any problems.
99% of mechanics just completely ignore rust.
well done sir, fat trimmed nicely.
Yes- I agree this is a great video on how to diagnose and repair, but I also would have just put a new caliper on that due to it's condition. (That one set of pad were wasted to the bare metal!) Still, good to see how to do it IF you chose to.
Piston is retracted by piston O-ring. It slightly twists when force is applied and when untwisting it pushes piston slightly back and prevents brake drag. Worn O-ring doesn't work so well as has rounded edges.
So everything should be smooth. You should be able to push piston back by hand(use a handle) without need for special tool. If special tool is needed O-ring or piston is bad.
*CHRUNCHHH KIRKKKK SCCCKKKKKTTT*
"NICE AND SMOOTH"
On my RAM 1500, it feels like I'm pulling a small trailer, and the truck will slow to a stop when I let off the gas. After coming to a stop, when I slowly gas up to pull away, there is a momentary sound like groaning - like a brake dragging, but the wheels spin as well as the one in this video. In other words, there is some hissing contact noise, and the wheel does not free spin, but I can turn it like in the vid. So, I assume my calipers are good?
Any other ideas on why the truck feels like it's pulling a trailer, runs at higher rpm, and a lower gear on the hiway, and coasts to a stop without braking from arterial speeds?
Should replace both front calipers in that instance,I personally would also be replacing my pads and rotors(both sides,one axle)
Awesome!
How do I track down a seal kit? I'd like to rebuild my Power Stop S4690 rear calipers on my F250. 44.45mm Piston Diameter
What kind of caliber is that calliper?
love that editing
Thanks man, I might have to take one of the pistons out on my front driver caliper. It’s a dual piston and the bottom one is seized. Didn’t know you could just pop them out like that