Nice comparison between them. Makes it easier for most newbies to understand and then decide what their budget allows them to spend. Keep it simple and to the point.
love my SE, didn't need any network stuff or runout sensor. added a pei sheet immediately, changed the hotend fan to a 4020, runs fantastic, price is amazing saw it on sale not too long ago for $170
I bought the SE then saw a video about the KE and needed a comparison and this did it so I'm just keeping the SE and dealing with what I got. Thank you so much this is what I needed.
I have an SE. there are a variety of upgrades you can do, such as double Z axis, linear rails for X an Y, rolling spool holder and filament sensor, pad upgrade, and more. One thing you want to make sure to do is LOWER ACCELERATION in the control menu, it greatly improves print quality. You can also adjust max speed, its not permanently capped. The KE is nice, but you can get all the upgrades to make it a KE. In my opinion, the SE is better as you can add features that it doesn't have but also ignore ones that you don't need. You can always sell your old parts on ebay if you do decide to replace something.
The V3KE is almost the best high speed bed slinger imo. I had one before my K1C and it was fantastic, the linear rod on the X axis is so much better than the linear rods most companies like to use now, and of course better than V rollers. Print quality is great, noise levels are low, and you can root the machine + add input shaper for increased print quality.
I own Creality Ender 3 KE printers, I actually like it so much I now own 5 of them. Just a couple simple things to know if you do purchase one of these. 1. Make sure the Voltage is set correctly for the power supply. All of mine came set to 230v and they need to be in the 115v position. If it is in the wrong position, it will continuously restart. 2. Make sure your pully screws are tight. The 2 main ones you have to concern yourself with is the one on the right side of the gantry and the one towards the rear under the build plate. Use the supplied allen wrenches to to make sure those are good and tight before calibrating. 3. Use gloves when touching the build plate. The oil from your fingers absolutely will prevent your filament from adhering to the plate. Tip: One thing I do before I start printing is to take a little of that thermal grease supplied, and lightly coat the tip of your nozzle with it. (Do not clump it on there.) This will help prevent filament from sticking to the nozzle tip and allow for a cleaner extrusion. This will also drastically extend the life of your nozzle. (This tip is just something I do with all of mine and may not be helpful for you.) Other than that, this has been a great printer and I have made some fantastic builds with it. Check the Creality Website for sales, and they arrive in about 3 days or so after ordering. I found them for $239 for the KE and $179 for the SE directly from Creality. Good Luck and enjoy!
@ditchwizard awesome! I even bought a second one lol I've been making props for cos players here where I live and honestly about to buy a third one possibly by November because the two I have are always occupied
I do not own a 3D printer, but have been considering buying one. I was able to easily identify the KE from the SE due to the filament detection sensor.
I have the cheaper model. I noticed the hanging filament on the face of the KE. It is an "overhang" and probably can adjust the speed and fan for that part of the print, or at that level. I have printed perfect prints on the SE and they are usable parts. I also have a total of 26 printers, many are Creality. But the printer that is impressing me for the money and for speed and filaments of any sort, is the Kingroon KLPi. Prints Nylon, NylonX, PETG, PLA, PETG-CF with no problems with the hot end supplied. It is Klipper as well fully wifi and open source. It rivals my Bambu Lab P1S with AMS, but obviously can't have filament changes on the KLPi during the printing. Bambu Lab is superior, in how it handles overhangs, but I think that is in their printing parameters/settings and the dual part fan set up. On the KLPi I can just print a fan outlet with dual side to side cooling. I have done that on many of the Ender products. Anyway the cheaper of the two is fine for MOST people who do this for a hobby. I do it for work, for a private company. I bought a K1 Max and it never printed anything but PLA correctly. PETG: constant jams, stringing all over, and constant fixing the printer, with not much help from Creality as it was not a finished product. They would not take it back after them being slow to respond under warranty. I was still thinking it could be fixed just past the 3 months. It is not a professional printer at all.
spending the bit of extra money on the KE was well worth it for me. You get the ability to print ABS if desired and the network capability saves me so much hassle. Just slice and send it over network.
I'm going with SE. And I would say I'm so satisfied with it. So for so good. No chronic problem. New release printer. Everything so smooth and working fine. Thank you for your comparison.
Really throwing me this 3d printing world! Started looking at where to go - being a complete newby, was looking at Bambu P1S,but now the KE has my attention. Never had any experience before and want something that works and can produce good results - will probably use to make tools and accessories for woodworking / laser projects -just don’t know if I can justify the extra cost of the Bambu!
It really depends on your budget and purpose. The Bambu will give you the best experience that exists in 3D printing, while these machines are solid budget / tinkering options.
Absolutely! I would love to know which one you chose. Also, come join us in our discord! We have an amazing community that is super helpful! loyal.ms/discord
Between SE, KE and just V3. The worst one is V3, to expensive and has to many issues. The best one is KE, it's in the middle with it's price but really works the best.
@bl4de938 after print testing the V3, KE, SE, and CR10SE(WILD CARD) in PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS/ASA. I am not going to dispute your claim the KE is the best of the 4. But I would have to say from worse to best the V3 is still better then the SE and CR10SE. CR10SE - it's just an Ender 3 S1 with today's best mods installed out the box. SE - Gantry and y rods are not very Stable. Slow Comapred to other new gen printers. I modded the crap out of mine to even compete with the other 3. New Rails on Y and X, flowtech nozzle, Pei sheet, gantry stabilizers, anti vibration feet, filament runout, spool holder relocation and KLIPPER. V3 - Overpriced But Fast (302 hours in NO Issues (yet)) KE - Gantry and y Rods Unstable but best bang for your buck. Speed, Linear Rail (on X only), Klipper, Price, Hotend and Parts availability.
G'day m8....i just picked up the SE from a electronics chain here in Australia (today) for about $140usd, i Paid $249aud. i have the Ender 3v2 i started on in 2020, now its getting on in age, so in the last 8 months i picked up a Kywoo Tycoon Max, a Neptune 4 pro (won in xmas comp) and now i picked up the Ender 3v3 SE. My V2 im gonna retire her for now as we are in this new high speed printing age and i could do with the space it takes. Big Cheers on the well layed out vid, you came across very easy to understand, from A M8 Downunder🙃
@@thedronedownunder3919 im in Brisbane m8.....and if ya starting...... this is very noob friendly printer,,,plenty of upgrades to print for this printer..cheers
@@genemaster74 Hey im from perth and wanting to print molds for concrete and plaster casting. Before going ahead and buying is there a way your able to tell is cement has any reaction with the standard PLA material? id hate to spend $279 on the printer for a single purpose then find out it cant be used for what i plan on doing lol.
@@ExposeClothing G'day from Brisbane.....ive not much info on the process your after.....but i would suggest looking up printed molds on youtube....there is plenty as thay have poped up in my feed, hopefully someone there can guide you on your printing journey. Kind regards A M8 Downunder
Which one is worth it I just used the kobra 2 neo 1. Artillery Sidewinder X3 Pro: ~300 x 300 x 400 mm 2. ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro: 225 x 225 x 280 mm 3. Voxelab Aquila D1: 235 x 235 x 250 mm 4. Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo: 250 x 220 x 220 mm 5. Creality Ender 3 V3 SE: ~220 x 220 x 250 mm 6. Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 7. Creality Ender 3: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 8. Tronxy Crux 1: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
Very helpful as my local dealer has 4 different ender models in the 130-250 range and is really confusing. I see a v2 model too but assuming it’s an older model. Iam leaning towards the k2 and appreciate your input.
I wonder if they have fixed the clogging problem. It always baffled me how much of the printer was left for the customer to "tweak" (or fix rather). It basically left us to beta test the product. Oddly, while their customer support was outsourced as well, to youtubers looking for content. So many things stupid desing flaws are/were left to the user who then had to rely on unreliable sources to fix them. I believe we are past the novelty stage for 3D printing where this is an acceptable business practice. Half a year ago I bought a resin printer in the same price range and was amazed how much reliable that machine is. At the same time, it is so well made that I can't see how I could "tweak" the thing. Turns out other printers don't need the fixing a Creality needs. I would be tempted to try the V3, as I was very happy with the V2. However, when I inevitably ran into a problem I could not fix myself, I experienced how utterly useless the Creality customer support is. The machine is now dead and I have no way to fix it. And I hate to spend this amount of money on something that could become unfixable.
Absolutely! Times have changed, and they are all working on improving support and the out of box user experience is so much better than it was just a year ago!
I have have around 20 Ender 3/pro/V2 & now backed off to only 2. However, after 6 years of my 2 machines going 24 hours I'm looking at something more reliable where I could do 4 similar prints reliably on the plate rather than currently my failure rate (approx 9%) is too risky to run 4x 8hour prints one one plate. I have replaced every part multiple times and run SKR boards. Would you recommend the KE for my use? My current prints are basically "cups" of which I print 30-60 at a run. Currently on my old ender 3s at 60mm/s it takes 8-10 hours to make one. If I could (again, reliably) print at say 100-150mm/s and print 4 on a plate at a time I'm shooting at 12-15 hours for 4 completed. Sound about right? It is difficult getting them and specific parts here in Thailand but if they are reliable and don't need huge maintenance I'm cool with that. My enders currently need either nozzle/throat/extruder cog/ replaced usually once to twice a month with belts/wheels/PTFE replaced bi-monthly. I converted 1 to duel Z & direct drive but haven't got it tuned well enough yet to produce sellable products.
I have been looking at a few reviews on these machines now since I am interested in getting a 3D printer to make some models that I create in Blender! What I can tell so far the differences are not that big but I was worried about the SE only having the SD card since I honestly have no idea how you are supposed to be able to transfer files to the machine from one of those cards. I also wondered since I am new to these printers and have no experience with them. What is really recommended, is it just what is prefered for one self and can the printers work from any room? Do they have to be in a workshop or does a regular room with a flat surface work fine? Would appreciate any tips or advice on the matter! Thanks for a great video ♥
SD cards are the normal route, they can be connected to any Mac or PC. If your computer doesn’t have an SD cars slot, there are inexpensive accessories for your PC that allow you to connect it. Less than a few dollars. All of the printers I show, you can absolutely run them in your home on any flat surface.
V3 SE is the way to go for beginners to print PETG/PLA/TPU. The KE and the new whatever CoreXZ V3 make no sense. If you want print ABS,ASA and other advanced materials buy an already enclosed corexy fast printer.
The V3 CORE XZ is a GREAT machine and DOES print ABS/ASA in an enclosure ($39 on Amazon). It is printing BETTER than both my 1st edition and second edition K1s. My SE and KE don't hold a candle to the REAL V3 (core xz). I have been printing non stop with it for last 3 days not one failure. I would HIGHLY recommend the V3 core XZ over the KE or SE anyday. EDIT: I have to change my tune. The KE is the supreme of the three V3. Bang for Buck Hands Down. The CORE XZ yes is faster (by minutes not hours) but honestly the quality is a little better on the KE. And for more then $100 difference you are better off with the KE.
Thanks for the video keep them coming. Do you think these printers are better than the elgoo Neptune 4 series printers? Also would you recommend going with one of these more budget printers like the creality or elgoo, or saving a little bit more and getting a A1 series printer. Mainly talking about general speed, quality, and reliability.
Thank you so much! I think you'll have the best experience with a Bambu machine. It is the best user and print experience that exists. Outside of that, I really like the Neptunes A LOT!
Creality refurbished on eBay has SE for $95 and KE for $130 before taxes. Happy with the SE but for clipper, speed and networking it's a no brainer. Wish you compared the speeds, I think I heard KE is 30% faster.
you can restrict access by installing moonraker and fluidd/mainsail and uninstalling the creality interface. you can do this using guilouz's k1/max script tool.
Yup, it’s linux, you can do anything, including install and play Doom. BUT, that is NOT for 99% of the buyers who will use this machine. It should have permissions enabled by default.
Which printer is quieter? I have an old Ender 3 Pro that is super quiet, a Ender 3 Max that is mostly quiet, and a K1 that is very noisy. This may seem odd, but the main thing I'm looking for is a quiet printer for use in an area where excessive noise is an issue. I'm willing to put up with a bit slower printer if it's virtually noiseless.
The quietest printer out there right now is the Bambu Lab A1, that thing is CRAZY quiet with their noise canceling algorithm! The motion system on this is very quiet, but of course the faster you go the cooling gets louder.
I’m making this decision today! I’m a beginner so I think the se might be the move for me..butttt the KE looks like it has some nice upgrades..tough decision
Oh, that's a tough one! The K1 is a great machine and so is the KE! I feel like the K1 is going to be a better printer in the long run, but either is a great choice for a new user.
I wonder what kind of performance you'd get out of an Ender 3 V3 SE on which you've installed Klipper on. The difference would be limited by the V-Rollers and hotends.
I ended up getting a v3 SE , got it brand new for $130 so i coulnt pass that by. I have noticed in my Facebook Creality groups that the KE has a lot of issues for some reason and the SE hardly has any.
The thing is Bro if you want 4 KE,s V,s 4 SE,s it's going to cost more but not if you get a Sonic pad for 4 SE,s I'd take the 4 SE,s with a Sonic pad over 4 KE,s 👍🇦🇺
Hello! I have 2 questions, please can you be so kind and help me 🙂😇 1) If you have to choose one of those printers ,which one you think is the best in your opinion? 2) I used a Cookiecad PLA filament 1.75mm for cookie cutters (but that brand is to expensive for me right now, can you recommend me one brand similar?, please 🥺 Thank you.
Currently on my country I can get KE for $250, the SE for $179. I initially was looking at the SE but when I checked that it doesn't do ABS, I've considered the KE. This is my first time buying a 3D printer. I wanted to have the ability to do ABS so I wouldn't have the need buy another 3D printer down the line. Is ABS printing worth-it? Also what does it mean that I'll need an enclosure for ABS printing? Thanks!
Does the final product HAVE TO BE ABS? I mean chemically is that essential. There are advanced blends of performance filaments I print on a tiny original 2018 Ender. For example Form Futura TitanX. No stink, enclosure optional. Post print It can't be be solvent smoothed or welded with acetone but that could be a benefit or a deficit property to some people.
The difference in my country is only 60 bux. ABS can be printed without enclosure these days maybe even nylon....i really contemplate buying the KE...it's just more possibilites...
The funny thing is a lot of cosplayers print in grey so that when they do the body fills and spray primers they can see the flaws they need to sand down more. 🤣
Wi-fi/networking is the big difference surely? As someone new to 3d printing I can't believe that mucking about with SD cards is the standard and that printers don't have an ethernet port as standard.
It’s really not that big of a deal, especially with the state of their networking features, where many still have trouble discovering printers on the network and you have to walk over and get the IP address first, and even then, you still need to check the printer is clear for a print and collect/clean afterwards. Bambu has the best network user experience right now, and we hope others catch up.
I have the KE. The gantry of the printer isn't strong enough to hold the filament spool 🧵 and print with such speeds. To be honest I wouldn't recommend it to people new to 3D printing. At such speeds you need input shaping sensors
I have the budget for KE but the thing is i also have my eyes on CNC 3018 desktop router which i can get alongside SE but its one time purchase so should i get the better printer and cnc can wait or go for both SE and CNC?!!
I really enjoy how you emphasize the positives and explain how they shine in their respective price range compared to more expensive printers, and that they still have a place in the home.
So for the KE you're really paying ~70 extra for a filament runnout sensor and better interface options (touch screen and wifi). The temperature and speed "upgrades" of the KE are not really something most people are going to utilize, especially without an enclosure.
The Plus is kinda a different animal i think. It seems to have some issues because Klipper speeds dont seem to like Large sized Elegoo printers much. The one I am thinking about getting is the actual Neptune 4 (non pro) which seems to be just a great machine with tons of features for like $260 and has tons of good reviews@@LoyalMoses
i just curious about the filament laying on the back, is it okay to put it like that ? or did u have some problem after that ? like fragile and stringy? thanks
Definitely! The reason I don’t just simple recommend the KE over the SE is because $80 is a lot of money to many people, and the SE is still a great machine!
Yeh, I see the v wheels. So no. If you are looking for a quiet printer, great. For performance and reliabilty I would only consider the KE. Sovol SV06 and SV06 plus are basicly Prusa clones, at better prices than Crealty or Prusa. The Sovol's do need a larger y-axis motor drop in replacement immediately, which costs about $20.
my first is the SE now i got also the KE instead of the bambu lab a1 mini bc idk anything about the bambu lab ecosystem 😅 maybe in the future I will consider to try bambu lab
sorry mate but you should have mention all the features like camera option,the cloud, calibration, and test different speed bench.Maybe you wanted to keep it simple for new ones at 3d printing and i get it, its just an observation
@@LoyalMoses yeah i got it, didnt wanted to sound like a hater i mean it was still a good job overall, sorry if my message was harsh in any moment and i apologize if you felt insulted. You are a cool YT
You forgot to mention the WIGGLY rods and leaning gantry on BOTH KE and SE. The METAL Gantry is secured to a METAL plate that is attached to the PLASTIC base. The gantrys start to lean forward or backwards (speeds up the processes with the spool mounted on top) which causes the Nozzle to drag across the infill. Some people are compensating by increasingly Z hop but the problem still exists.
Why would I mention other people’s problems that I haven’t experienced? I don’t carry anyone else’s baggage, and share MY experiences, which have been absolutely great.
@LoyalMoses Fair point. If YOU haven't had any issues with the prints you have done your right it's your channel and your free to say how YOU feel about the machines. Everyone's entitled to thier opinions and view points. I just prefer to speak about the noise going on around me rather than ignore it. Before we end up with iteration #4 of the SE like we are on with the K1 aka K1C.
I had an original ender3 and then a V3 SE. I was sick of the endless fiddling to keep it running so I got a bambulab A1. Best thing I ever did. Ender3's suck.
@@LoyalMoses which was my point. If someone is concerned, they should look up how to route traffic on their router. Every manufacturer's interface is a little different.
I highly recommend putting these kinds of devices on an IoT network and you other devices on another network. If the user will do some research they can figure it out.
Hi completely novice here fresh of the boat. I'm a jeweller. I'd like to be able to dram ny own designs pendants rings etc. Can I send that to the printer ? Also does it support the cameras that creality have ? . Also what is the footprint of this beast ? . Finaly sorry for so many questions and sorry if there stupid I'm brand new. Is there somewhere emthat teaches 3d printers? You know like a ecdl for windows. Is there a online course for beginners for learning how to 3d print etc ? Thank you sorry if my questions are dumb. But I gotta learn
Absolutely you can print jewelry, etc - depending on the type you should also consider resin printing, you may find it more intricate and dynamic for that. Join our discord and ask all the questions!
Why are you hammering on things being controllable from your local network? If you let someone onto your LAN, that's like inviting them into your house. So, then they could of course also drink your whiskey. Much more dangerous is the cloud component as that allows an entity from outside your LAN to now do stuff to your printer and possibly opens a door for them to do all sorts of other stuff in your LAN.
100% incorrect. These machines are in schools, and on business networks in addition to homes. I spent 20+ years in information security, and the vast majority of security incidents are from the trusted side of the network. Meaning, compromised internally. Imagine if submarines didn’t have compartments, and only focused on the external hull keeping water out. One small leak, ultimately sinks the entire sub. If an attacker makes it into a network, they should not automatically have full access to everything. Each device on a network should be properly secured, just like routers and servers have proper permissions enabled.
@@LoyalMoses A user-id and password aren't a decent security and social engineering is still the most effective hacking method for attacking companies. Sure, in environments as you mention, further segregation of the networks is wanted to add another layer of security, but for home use all those IOT devices added to people's LANs and "phoning home" are way more scary. And honestly, if I can get onto your LAN and sufficiently eavesdrop, send and manipulate packets, a user-id and password won't save you. Once in, the cracks in the various networked operating systems can be widened slowly, but surely.
All of what you said plus WIFI for the KE win..and for a measly $100 more.. still an entry level machine. Of course if yer still living at home on ma and pops neck, a 100.00 is still a tidy sum... Cheers
A..b.s. ore petg. Are almost the strength. And if you build 5 wals . From your slicer settings in Cura. Whit a 15. Procent infill. Al your print.s wil rock.🎉 A use the .se.and even print bal BEARINGS. So nice to have that option. Verry useful prints come of the s.e. . And most of the time a print at 200 mms. If you petg you goth to always slow down your print. The print speed is also very depended of the material you use. The filliment sensor yeah nice. Bud if your print stops. Better is to make a new print. They dont say that to new user.s. Just to let you by the k.e. A Little upgrade om the s.e. is possible. And you have bigger build volume. And a lineair rail if you want that.
I've had nothing but issues with my KE. Maybe just got a lemon, but it definitely struggles with petG. Just got the A1, and it is better in everyway imo.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice comparison between them. Makes it easier for most newbies to understand and then decide what their budget allows them to spend. Keep it simple and to the point.
Thank you! That's exactly what I was going for. I've had to answer this question in comments and in our live show a thousand times!
love my SE, didn't need any network stuff or runout sensor. added a pei sheet immediately, changed the hotend fan to a 4020, runs fantastic, price is amazing saw it on sale not too long ago for $170
Great price! Thanks for sharing!
just got my KE refurbished from creality official with a 2 year warranty from ebay for $186 including taxes and shipping
I bought the SE then saw a video about the KE and needed a comparison and this did it so I'm just keeping the SE and dealing with what I got. Thank you so much this is what I needed.
I really like the SE, the print results are great! And thank you!
I have an SE. there are a variety of upgrades you can do, such as double Z axis, linear rails for X an Y, rolling spool holder and filament sensor, pad upgrade, and more. One thing you want to make sure to do is LOWER ACCELERATION in the control menu, it greatly improves print quality. You can also adjust max speed, its not permanently capped.
The KE is nice, but you can get all the upgrades to make it a KE. In my opinion, the SE is better as you can add features that it doesn't have but also ignore ones that you don't need. You can always sell your old parts on ebay if you do decide to replace something.
The V3KE is almost the best high speed bed slinger imo. I had one before my K1C and it was fantastic, the linear rod on the X axis is so much better than the linear rods most companies like to use now, and of course better than V rollers. Print quality is great, noise levels are low, and you can root the machine + add input shaper for increased print quality.
It's a great machine.
Nice camera switch between camera A and B! Loving the studio upgrades.
Thank you!
I really like the SE for simplicity and intuitiveness for beginners especially, along with the analog handle as opposed to touch screen.
Yes!!!
I own Creality Ender 3 KE printers, I actually like it so much I now own 5 of them. Just a couple simple things to know if you do purchase one of these.
1. Make sure the Voltage is set correctly for the power supply. All of mine came set to 230v and they need to be in the 115v position. If it is in the wrong position, it will continuously restart.
2. Make sure your pully screws are tight. The 2 main ones you have to concern yourself with is the one on the right side of the gantry and the one towards the rear under the build plate. Use the supplied allen wrenches to to make sure those are good and tight before calibrating.
3. Use gloves when touching the build plate. The oil from your fingers absolutely will prevent your filament from adhering to the plate.
Tip: One thing I do before I start printing is to take a little of that thermal grease supplied, and lightly coat the tip of your nozzle with it. (Do not clump it on there.) This will help prevent filament from sticking to the nozzle tip and allow for a cleaner extrusion. This will also drastically extend the life of your nozzle. (This tip is just something I do with all of mine and may not be helpful for you.)
Other than that, this has been a great printer and I have made some fantastic builds with it. Check the Creality Website for sales, and they arrive in about 3 days or so after ordering. I found them for $239 for the KE and $179 for the SE directly from Creality. Good Luck and enjoy!
WO! 5 of them!? Nice!
Is it possible to attach an engraving head ?
Very informative, i just bought the SE and everything works phenomenal 😊
Awesome!!
hii i hope you see this, would you still recommend buying it 4 months later? i’d love to know any pros or cons if you had any
Looking into an SE, how are you liking it after a couple of months of use?
@ditchwizard awesome! I even bought a second one lol I've been making props for cos players here where I live and honestly about to buy a third one possibly by November because the two I have are always occupied
@@LaloLPGMER I really do appreciate the response, Thank you!
I do not own a 3D printer, but have been considering buying one. I was able to easily identify the KE from the SE due to the filament detection sensor.
I hope you get one soon!
I have the cheaper model. I noticed the hanging filament on the face of the KE. It is an "overhang" and probably can adjust the speed and fan for that part of the print, or at that level. I have printed perfect prints on the SE and they are usable parts. I also have a total of 26 printers, many are Creality. But the printer that is impressing me for the money and for speed and filaments of any sort, is the Kingroon KLPi. Prints Nylon, NylonX, PETG, PLA, PETG-CF with no problems with the hot end supplied. It is Klipper as well fully wifi and open source. It rivals my Bambu Lab P1S with AMS, but obviously can't have filament changes on the KLPi during the printing. Bambu Lab is superior, in how it handles overhangs, but I think that is in their printing parameters/settings and the dual part fan set up. On the KLPi I can just print a fan outlet with dual side to side cooling. I have done that on many of the Ender products.
Anyway the cheaper of the two is fine for MOST people who do this for a hobby. I do it for work, for a private company. I bought a K1 Max and it never printed anything but PLA correctly. PETG: constant jams, stringing all over, and constant fixing the printer, with not much help from Creality as it was not a finished product. They would not take it back after them being slow to respond under warranty. I was still thinking it could be fixed just past the 3 months. It is not a professional printer at all.
Ah, we have two KLP1 machines here, the new 230mm sized one is nice!
The se you can connect Thru the usb c. Cable.
And print directly from cura
Yes, most printers can connect directly via USB.
I really wanted to see this comparison. Thank you
Absolutely! Thank you for watching. A LOT of people had asked for this, these are such popular options.
spending the bit of extra money on the KE was well worth it for me. You get the ability to print ABS if desired and the network capability saves me so much hassle. Just slice and send it over network.
I'm going with SE. And I would say I'm so satisfied with it. So for so good. No chronic problem. New release printer. Everything so smooth and working fine. Thank you for your comparison.
The SE is such a good machine, I really like it!
Really throwing me this 3d printing world! Started looking at where to go - being a complete newby, was looking at Bambu P1S,but now the KE has my attention. Never had any experience before and want something that works and can produce good results - will probably use to make tools and accessories for woodworking / laser projects -just don’t know if I can justify the extra cost of the Bambu!
It really depends on your budget and purpose. The Bambu will give you the best experience that exists in 3D printing, while these machines are solid budget / tinkering options.
@@LoyalMosesthanks for the advice - love the channel and content - I’ll let you know which way I go when I make the plunge! Keep the content coming!
Absolutely! I would love to know which one you chose. Also, come join us in our discord! We have an amazing community that is super helpful! loyal.ms/discord
I was thinking about getting a new v3. this helped a lot.
Awesome!
V3 Core XZ is a COMPLETELY different machine
Between SE, KE and just V3. The worst one is V3, to expensive and has to many issues. The best one is KE, it's in the middle with it's price but really works the best.
@bl4de938 after print testing the V3, KE, SE, and CR10SE(WILD CARD) in PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS/ASA. I am not going to dispute your claim the KE is the best of the 4. But I would have to say from worse to best the V3 is still better then the SE and CR10SE.
CR10SE - it's just an Ender 3 S1 with today's best mods installed out the box.
SE - Gantry and y rods are not very Stable. Slow Comapred to other new gen printers. I modded the crap out of mine to even compete with the other 3. New Rails on Y and X, flowtech nozzle, Pei sheet, gantry stabilizers, anti vibration feet, filament runout, spool holder relocation and KLIPPER.
V3 - Overpriced But Fast (302 hours in NO Issues (yet))
KE - Gantry and y Rods Unstable but best bang for your buck. Speed, Linear Rail (on X only), Klipper, Price, Hotend and Parts availability.
the SE runs a sprite extruder, but it uses a weird spider v2 style heatblock and nozzles.
A lot of proprietary parts now.
way too many proprietary parts when you consider that it's not even a performance gain to have that strangely sized nozzle.
G'day m8....i just picked up the SE from a electronics chain here in Australia (today) for about $140usd, i Paid $249aud. i have the Ender 3v2 i started on in 2020, now its getting on in age, so in the last 8 months i picked up a Kywoo Tycoon Max, a Neptune 4 pro (won in xmas comp) and now i picked up the Ender 3v3 SE. My V2 im gonna retire her for now as we are in this new high speed printing age and i could do with the space it takes. Big Cheers on the well layed out vid, you came across very easy to understand, from A M8 Downunder🙃
Very cool! Cheers!
I'm a total noob and saw the $249 for the SE @ Jaycar. Thinking this might be a nice way to start off.
@@thedronedownunder3919 im in Brisbane m8.....and if ya starting...... this is very noob friendly printer,,,plenty of upgrades to print for this printer..cheers
@@genemaster74 Hey im from perth and wanting to print molds for concrete and plaster casting. Before going ahead and buying is there a way your able to tell is cement has any reaction with the standard PLA material? id hate to spend $279 on the printer for a single purpose then find out it cant be used for what i plan on doing lol.
@@ExposeClothing G'day from Brisbane.....ive not much info on the process your after.....but i would suggest looking up printed molds on youtube....there is plenty as thay have poped up in my feed, hopefully someone there can guide you on your printing journey. Kind regards A M8 Downunder
Which one is worth it I just used the kobra 2 neo
1. Artillery Sidewinder X3 Pro: ~300 x 300 x 400 mm
2. ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro: 225 x 225 x 280 mm
3. Voxelab Aquila D1: 235 x 235 x 250 mm
4. Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo: 250 x 220 x 220 mm
5. Creality Ender 3 V3 SE: ~220 x 220 x 250 mm
6. Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
7. Creality Ender 3: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
8. Tronxy Crux 1: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
The ELEGOO is a great machine, also the V3 SE is a really food machine too.
Very helpful as my local dealer has 4 different ender models in the 130-250 range and is really confusing. I see a v2 model too but assuming it’s an older model. Iam leaning towards the k2 and appreciate your input.
V2s are a bit older for sure, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the V3s or the K1 or K2 models!
I wonder if they have fixed the clogging problem. It always baffled me how much of the printer was left for the customer to "tweak" (or fix rather). It basically left us to beta test the product. Oddly, while their customer support was outsourced as well, to youtubers looking for content.
So many things stupid desing flaws are/were left to the user who then had to rely on unreliable sources to fix them. I believe we are past the novelty stage for 3D printing where this is an acceptable business practice. Half a year ago I bought a resin printer in the same price range and was amazed how much reliable that machine is. At the same time, it is so well made that I can't see how I could "tweak" the thing. Turns out other printers don't need the fixing a Creality needs.
I would be tempted to try the V3, as I was very happy with the V2. However, when I inevitably ran into a problem I could not fix myself, I experienced how utterly useless the Creality customer support is. The machine is now dead and I have no way to fix it. And I hate to spend this amount of money on something that could become unfixable.
Absolutely! Times have changed, and they are all working on improving support and the out of box user experience is so much better than it was just a year ago!
Ni ce video. I've pull the trigger for the KE version few days ago.
By the way SE sheet is PC (polycarbonate)
Thanks and my mistake! That is definitely not PEI!
There's a new Creality Ender 3 V3 (coreXZ), Hope you could add that to the comparison in the future. 🙏
Absolutely!
I have have around 20 Ender 3/pro/V2 & now backed off to only 2. However, after 6 years of my 2 machines going 24 hours I'm looking at something more reliable where I could do 4 similar prints reliably on the plate rather than currently my failure rate (approx 9%) is too risky to run 4x 8hour prints one one plate. I have replaced every part multiple times and run SKR boards. Would you recommend the KE for my use? My current prints are basically "cups" of which I print 30-60 at a run. Currently on my old ender 3s at 60mm/s it takes 8-10 hours to make one. If I could (again, reliably) print at say 100-150mm/s and print 4 on a plate at a time I'm shooting at 12-15 hours for 4 completed. Sound about right? It is difficult getting them and specific parts here in Thailand but if they are reliable and don't need huge maintenance I'm cool with that. My enders currently need either nozzle/throat/extruder cog/ replaced usually once to twice a month with belts/wheels/PTFE replaced bi-monthly. I converted 1 to duel Z & direct drive but haven't got it tuned well enough yet to produce sellable products.
I have been looking at a few reviews on these machines now since I am interested in getting a 3D printer to make some models that I create in Blender! What I can tell so far the differences are not that big but I was worried about the SE only having the SD card since I honestly have no idea how you are supposed to be able to transfer files to the machine from one of those cards.
I also wondered since I am new to these printers and have no experience with them. What is really recommended, is it just what is prefered for one self and can the printers work from any room? Do they have to be in a workshop or does a regular room with a flat surface work fine?
Would appreciate any tips or advice on the matter! Thanks for a great video ♥
SD cards are the normal route, they can be connected to any Mac or PC. If your computer doesn’t have an SD cars slot, there are inexpensive accessories for your PC that allow you to connect it. Less than a few dollars.
All of the printers I show, you can absolutely run them in your home on any flat surface.
Alright! Thank you so much for getting back to me, I will have a look for sure!@@LoyalMoses
V3 SE is the way to go for beginners to print PETG/PLA/TPU. The KE and the new whatever CoreXZ V3 make no sense. If you want print ABS,ASA and other advanced materials buy an already enclosed corexy fast printer.
Great points!
The V3 CORE XZ is a GREAT machine and DOES print ABS/ASA in an enclosure ($39 on Amazon). It is printing BETTER than both my 1st edition and second edition K1s. My SE and KE don't hold a candle to the REAL V3 (core xz). I have been printing non stop with it for last 3 days not one failure. I would HIGHLY recommend the V3 core XZ over the KE or SE anyday.
EDIT: I have to change my tune. The KE is the supreme of the three V3. Bang for Buck Hands Down. The CORE XZ yes is faster (by minutes not hours) but honestly the quality is a little better on the KE. And for more then $100 difference you are better off with the KE.
I bought the k1. It was trash I’m now trying to go back to a ended 3 with enclosure to print carbon fiber lol
The lack of network connectivity on SE is a deal-breaker for me.
Some of us don't have 600 dollars for a printer though
Thanks for the video keep them coming. Do you think these printers are better than the elgoo Neptune 4 series printers? Also would you recommend going with one of these more budget printers like the creality or elgoo, or saving a little bit more and getting a A1 series printer. Mainly talking about general speed, quality, and reliability.
Thank you so much! I think you'll have the best experience with a Bambu machine. It is the best user and print experience that exists. Outside of that, I really like the Neptunes A LOT!
@@LoyalMoses Awesome, thanks for the response I appreciate it.
Creality refurbished on eBay has SE for $95 and KE for $130 before taxes. Happy with the SE but for clipper, speed and networking it's a no brainer. Wish you compared the speeds, I think I heard KE is 30% faster.
Cool!
Thank you for the video. Just the one that I needed to see. I initially wanted to buy A1, but KE seems to be right choice now.,
KE is a great machine for the price!!!
@@LoyalMosesThank you
Very welcome!
you can restrict access by installing moonraker and fluidd/mainsail and uninstalling the creality interface. you can do this using guilouz's k1/max script tool.
Yup, it’s linux, you can do anything, including install and play Doom. BUT, that is NOT for 99% of the buyers who will use this machine. It should have permissions enabled by default.
Thx, SE will do enough for me for now.
Awesome! It’s a great machine and you can’t beat that price!
Which printer is quieter? I have an old Ender 3 Pro that is super quiet, a Ender 3 Max that is mostly quiet, and a K1 that is very noisy. This may seem odd, but the main thing I'm looking for is a quiet printer for use in an area where excessive noise is an issue. I'm willing to put up with a bit slower printer if it's virtually noiseless.
The quietest printer out there right now is the Bambu Lab A1, that thing is CRAZY quiet with their noise canceling algorithm! The motion system on this is very quiet, but of course the faster you go the cooling gets louder.
@@LoyalMoses Thanks! Between the Creality Ender-3 SE and KE which do you think is quieter?
I did guess right, I've seen the KE and SE often enough to know the difference is in the Print head. KE has the fan exposed.
Awesome!
I’m making this decision today! I’m a beginner so I think the se might be the move for me..butttt the KE looks like it has some nice upgrades..tough decision
So exciting! Both are great machines!
@@LoyalMoses ended up going with the SE, thank you for this review, it was very detailed and answered a lot of questions!
Congratulations!!! Great choice!
Hello , I never used a 3D printer. I have got two options one is KE other one ise K1. Which one do you recommend I buy?
Oh, that's a tough one! The K1 is a great machine and so is the KE! I feel like the K1 is going to be a better printer in the long run, but either is a great choice for a new user.
@@LoyalMoses Thank you for the answer, I think I will buy K1 or wait for V3, it was very difficult to decide.
I wonder what kind of performance you'd get out of an Ender 3 V3 SE on which you've installed Klipper on. The difference would be limited by the V-Rollers and hotends.
Hey Eric! We can always find out! :-)
@@LoyalMoses Have I found a use for the BTT pad besides playing Doom? 🤣
Can you print to either of these printers over a USB cable from the host computer?
Most printers you can, yes -- I did not test that with either of these machines so I would hate to give you the wrong answer!
I ended up getting a v3 SE , got it brand new for $130 so i coulnt pass that by. I have noticed in my Facebook Creality groups that the KE has a lot of issues for some reason and the SE hardly has any.
Great deal!
me looking at 3d printer comparisons and reviews knowing full well I just bought a P1S and dont have the money/space for another printer
So true! ❤️
The thing is Bro if you want 4 KE,s V,s 4 SE,s it's going to cost more but not if you get a Sonic pad for 4 SE,s I'd take the 4 SE,s with a Sonic pad over 4 KE,s 👍🇦🇺
Great advice!
the ke has a pei sheet but the SE comes with a not as textured-but not smooth PC build sheet, polycarbonate and not pei
Yup, I caught that later - it's a PC plate.
Hello! I have 2 questions, please can you be so kind and help me 🙂😇
1) If you have to choose one of those printers ,which one you think is the best in your opinion?
2) I used a Cookiecad PLA filament 1.75mm for cookie cutters (but that brand is to expensive for me right now, can you recommend me one brand similar?, please 🥺
Thank you.
SE for anyone and the KE for those that want speed and tinkering!
Polymaker is the brand I will always recommend, been using them for years!
Currently on my country I can get KE for $250, the SE for $179. I initially was looking at the SE but when I checked that it doesn't do ABS, I've considered the KE. This is my first time buying a 3D printer. I wanted to have the ability to do ABS so I wouldn't have the need buy another 3D printer down the line. Is ABS printing worth-it? Also what does it mean that I'll need an enclosure for ABS printing? Thanks!
I bought the KE after a few months without beer. What I saved was worth the difference to be honest, and made my liver happy!😏
Does the final product HAVE TO BE ABS? I mean chemically is that essential. There are advanced blends of performance filaments I print on a tiny original 2018 Ender. For example Form Futura TitanX. No stink, enclosure optional. Post print It can't be be solvent smoothed or welded with acetone but that could be a benefit or a deficit property to some people.
Those aren’t bad prices!
Yes I guessed right from the extruder coverings
Nice guess then! 🔥
It drives me batty that Creality don't include touchscreen and wifi loading on all their machines.
I know what you mean, but they are slowly getting there! Let's hope they can improve upon this in 2024!
Could tell the difference by the KE not having the knob on the side screen.
Yeah!
Yeah!
Are both of these two color machines? I’m very new still
No, these are single color machine.
The difference in my country is only 60 bux. ABS can be printed without enclosure these days maybe even nylon....i really contemplate buying the KE...it's just more possibilites...
Interesting.
The funny thing is a lot of cosplayers print in grey so that when they do the body fills and spray primers they can see the flaws they need to sand down more. 🤣
Exactly! It shows EVERYTHING! 😳
Wi-fi/networking is the big difference surely? As someone new to 3d printing I can't believe that mucking about with SD cards is the standard and that printers don't have an ethernet port as standard.
It’s really not that big of a deal, especially with the state of their networking features, where many still have trouble discovering printers on the network and you have to walk over and get the IP address first, and even then, you still need to check the printer is clear for a print and collect/clean afterwards.
Bambu has the best network user experience right now, and we hope others catch up.
I have the KE. The gantry of the printer isn't strong enough to hold the filament spool 🧵 and print with such speeds. To be honest I wouldn't recommend it to people new to 3D printing. At such speeds you need input shaping sensors
I haven’t experienced it being not strong enough, we’ve ran it quite fast and it wiggles, but was fine.
I have the budget for KE but the thing is i also have my eyes on CNC 3018 desktop router which i can get alongside SE but its one time purchase so should i get the better printer and cnc can wait or go for both SE and CNC?!!
I don't believe there is a HUGE difference between the KE and SE as far as results. Speed, yes, but not really in print quality.
I really enjoy how you emphasize the positives and explain how they shine in their respective price range compared to more expensive printers, and that they still have a place in the home.
Thank you Shane! That’s exactly what I am trying to do. 💜
So for the KE you're really paying ~70 extra for a filament runnout sensor and better interface options (touch screen and wifi). The temperature and speed "upgrades" of the KE are not really something most people are going to utilize, especially without an enclosure.
It being a Klipper machine is quite the difference too.
@@LoyalMoses Sure, but again it's not really something most people will notice.
How do they compare to the Elegoo Neptune 4? Thats kind of the best sub $300 bedslinger right now i think
Neptune 4 Plus video drops in 5 hours! I’ll do a compare soon!
The Plus is kinda a different animal i think. It seems to have some issues because Klipper speeds dont seem to like Large sized Elegoo printers much. The one I am thinking about getting is the actual Neptune 4 (non pro) which seems to be just a great machine with tons of features for like $260 and has tons of good reviews@@LoyalMoses
i just curious about the filament laying on the back, is it okay to put it like that ? or did u have some problem after that ? like fragile and stringy? thanks
I am in a low humidity area, so it is okay for me.
The $80 for the ke is well worth it. If you were to upgrade the SE into KE it would cost much more.
Definitely! The reason I don’t just simple recommend the KE over the SE is because $80 is a lot of money to many people, and the SE is still a great machine!
I think I will go with the KE, $80 isn’t much of a difference
It’s a great machine!
@@LoyalMoses what do you think of the CR-10? The print mill?
Hello im an entry level in 3d printing? what should i get the ke or the se?
I’d likely recommend the SE, it’s a GREAT experience. Also, welcome in!
Yeh, I see the v wheels. So no. If you are looking for a quiet printer, great. For performance and reliabilty I would only consider the KE. Sovol SV06 and SV06 plus are basicly Prusa clones, at better prices than Crealty or Prusa. The Sovol's do need a larger y-axis motor drop in replacement immediately, which costs about $20.
Sovol makes great machines!
my first is the SE now i got also the KE instead of the bambu lab a1 mini bc idk anything about the bambu lab ecosystem 😅 maybe in the future I will consider to try bambu lab
Cool!
Dude, very informative thanks 🙏
Thanks you!
Hi, loved the vid. Have u heard of the newly planned ender 3 v3, not se or ke just flat ender 3 v3
Thanks! We’ll have that machine soon for content.
very informative video greatly appreciate it!
Very welcome!
Which of the two printers operates more quietly?
Hmmm… I cannot recall for sure, I think the KE was louder.
sorry mate but you should have mention all the features like camera option,the cloud, calibration, and test different speed bench.Maybe you wanted to keep it simple for new ones at 3d printing and i get it, its just an observation
Then you get it! Simple for those just getting into printing!
@@LoyalMoses yeah i got it, didnt wanted to sound like a hater i mean it was still a good job overall, sorry if my message was harsh in any moment and i apologize if you felt insulted. You are a cool YT
Thank you!
Really nice comparison.
Creality is terrible at naming their printers though. 😂
Wait until the 4 V3 K SE V2! 😉 Thanks!
Where can I get the filament warning device so I can attach it to the SE?
They sell them on their website, filament runout sensors
You forgot to mention the WIGGLY rods and leaning gantry on BOTH KE and SE. The METAL Gantry is secured to a METAL plate that is attached to the PLASTIC base. The gantrys start to lean forward or backwards (speeds up the processes with the spool mounted on top) which causes the Nozzle to drag across the infill. Some people are compensating by increasingly Z hop but the problem still exists.
Why would I mention other people’s problems that I haven’t experienced? I don’t carry anyone else’s baggage, and share MY experiences, which have been absolutely great.
@LoyalMoses Fair point. If YOU haven't had any issues with the prints you have done your right it's your channel and your free to say how YOU feel about the machines. Everyone's entitled to thier opinions and view points. I just prefer to speak about the noise going on around me rather than ignore it. Before we end up with iteration #4 of the SE like we are on with the K1 aka K1C.
Very Informative, Thanks Bro
You are so welcome! Thank you for watching.
This difference maker for me is Klipper. Marlin is hell
It’s getting more popular.
both printers are really good 👍 because Creality always makes good stuff
Love for Creality!
Which one do you recommend kp3s pro v2 or ender 3 ke?
KE
I had an original ender3 and then a V3 SE. I was sick of the endless fiddling to keep it running so I got a bambulab A1. Best thing I ever did. Ender3's suck.
That A1 is an awesome machine! Congrats!
Hi what do you think about the max acceleration speeds on the se being 4000 for x,y,z and e
Not sure!
Whats better ender 3 v3 se or ender 3 v3 ke
The KE is faster for sure, the SE is simple and really good. The KE will require more attention to detail for tuning.
@@LoyalMoses what is the best 3d printer to 300 usd?
Bambu Lab A1 is the closest to that price and the best experience right now in 3D printing.
I personally don't like ender3 style machines v wheels are ancient technology, off topic question, what's your favorite filament brand ?
Polymaker and Bambu are my sponsors, and I specifically brought them on board because I love their filament. Also like Amolen.
Well I would never consider the KE.... for me or it's the V3 SE, or go straight to the K1... I can't see any reason to choose the KE....
How come?
Why would anybody settle for a thumb wheel screen today.
They work, just prefer better now days.
If you manage your WiFi router, you can restrict access in it.
It’s not about me, tech isn’t an issue, it’s about the average buyer, they don’t know to do it, or how even if they did know.
@@LoyalMoses which was my point. If someone is concerned, they should look up how to route traffic on their router. Every manufacturer's interface is a little different.
@@LoyalMoses I'm glad you mentioned this. I was trying to encourage those who do enabled the WiFi to consider managing there WiFi traffic.
I highly recommend putting these kinds of devices on an IoT network and you other devices on another network.
If the user will do some research they can figure it out.
Can ender v3 se use abs filament ?
Have u tried it
You could do ABS on it for sure, be careful with drafts and use an adhesive on the bed.
Thanks to my autism I noticed differences
I was wrong at guessing
They are both really good machines!
I got it right only because I own the SE
Was easy to spot for ya! AWESOME!
Hi completely novice here fresh of the boat. I'm a jeweller. I'd like to be able to dram ny own designs pendants rings etc. Can I send that to the printer ? Also does it support the cameras that creality have ? . Also what is the footprint of this beast ? . Finaly sorry for so many questions and sorry if there stupid I'm brand new. Is there somewhere emthat teaches 3d printers? You know like a ecdl for windows. Is there a online course for beginners for learning how to 3d print etc ? Thank you sorry if my questions are dumb. But I gotta learn
Absolutely you can print jewelry, etc - depending on the type you should also consider resin printing, you may find it more intricate and dynamic for that. Join our discord and ask all the questions!
should i get cr-10 se or ender 3 v3 corexy
Not used a CR-10, but the V3 is a nice machine!
Awesome shirt
Thanks!
Love the Fortnite font
Thanks!
yes, I guessed right.
AWESOME! Nice attention to detail!
these or v3
V3 is good too!
Why are you hammering on things being controllable from your local network? If you let someone onto your LAN, that's like inviting them into your house. So, then they could of course also drink your whiskey. Much more dangerous is the cloud component as that allows an entity from outside your LAN to now do stuff to your printer and possibly opens a door for them to do all sorts of other stuff in your LAN.
100% incorrect. These machines are in schools, and on business networks in addition to homes.
I spent 20+ years in information security, and the vast majority of security incidents are from the trusted side of the network. Meaning, compromised internally.
Imagine if submarines didn’t have compartments, and only focused on the external hull keeping water out. One small leak, ultimately sinks the entire sub.
If an attacker makes it into a network, they should not automatically have full access to everything.
Each device on a network should be properly secured, just like routers and servers have proper permissions enabled.
@@LoyalMoses A user-id and password aren't a decent security and social engineering is still the most effective hacking method for attacking companies. Sure, in environments as you mention, further segregation of the networks is wanted to add another layer of security, but for home use all those IOT devices added to people's LANs and "phoning home" are way more scary. And honestly, if I can get onto your LAN and sufficiently eavesdrop, send and manipulate packets, a user-id and password won't save you. Once in, the cracks in the various networked operating systems can be widened slowly, but surely.
I was a professional hacker for more than a decade of that 20+ years in infosec, the other was spent developing intrusion detection systems. ;-)
There is a good deal 169 for the se
THAT IS A GREAT PRICE! WOW!
My guy!!!
JAY! How are you?!
@@LoyalMosesGood brotha! Stayed up late as i could last night watch stream haha love your content it inspires me to print and explore creating!!
Awesome! That makes me super happy!
All of what you said plus WIFI for the KE win..and for a measly $100 more.. still an entry level machine. Of course if yer still living at home on ma and pops neck, a 100.00 is still a tidy sum... Cheers
Absolutely, $100 is an important difference!
A..b.s. ore petg.
Are almost the strength.
And if you build 5 wals .
From your slicer settings in Cura.
Whit a 15. Procent infill.
Al your print.s wil rock.🎉
A use the .se.and even print bal BEARINGS.
So nice to have that option.
Verry useful prints come of the s.e. .
And most of the time a print at 200 mms.
If you petg you goth to always slow down your print.
The print speed is also very depended of the material you use.
The filliment sensor yeah nice.
Bud if your print stops.
Better is to make a new print.
They dont say that to new user.s.
Just to let you by the k.e.
A Little upgrade om the s.e. is possible.
And you have bigger build volume.
And a lineair rail if you want that.
Thanks for sharing!
KE on Left.
Nailed it!
but fortunately I can accept it.
Awesome.
Or just get the Bambu Lab A1 lol
Crazy how prices are changing everything!
I've had nothing but issues with my KE. Maybe just got a lemon, but it definitely struggles with petG. Just got the A1, and it is better in everyway imo.
I got it right because I own the se
Awesome! That SE is a great machine!