I agree with your wife on getting the short block. If it was my Vette, I would have gone with a new 383 stroker long block with around 400 HP to avoid the issues with a rebuild. I'm thinking of going this route on my 71, but my engine runs too good to just rip it out. It's numbers matching and it only has 74K original miles, but it sure is a slow pig... especially compared to my 2016 Camaro SS. I would definitely like more power, and I don't mind spending the $6K for the 383... my only issue is, my stock engine runs so well. Tough decision for me. Great video as always Mark, but that guy who built your engine doesn't seem very impressive to date. Merry Christmas!
If my car would have had the numbers matching engine with only 74k miles and ran good I would have never changed it. Even though the original motor was not a power house, at my age, I'm not so concerned about power as much as I am about reliability. When I was younger I was all about going fast. Nowadays tickets are too expensive. LOL There were a lot of mistakes made when they rebuilt this engine. Live and learn.
The car probably needs a engine bay refresh so cleaning and painting is easier with the engine out. Put the original engine with all of the OEM part in storage so you can install the 383. When you get tired, bored or even want to sell it make the switch back to the numbers matching. Just don’t let the motor go missing.
I did an engine bay refresh earlier this summer when I did the engine the first time. I will clean it up again before I put the new engine in. I am going to cover the old engine in plastic and put it in a storage shed I have. It is not the original engine out of the car. I think it came out of a 72. It is still worth something.
Not sure if my sbc has 70K or 170K. I do wanna swap out the heads but I am in your predicament as it does burn a bit of oil. Hopefully from the valve seals (Oring type) . Decided I'll just run it into the ground until a blown head gasket or way to much oil burning before I do anything. Good info on the lifter rods as Jegs didn't tell me about the .100 extra or the new plugs needed. Already have EZ efi on the engine. It was the best thing I've done to the vehicle. Driveability is amazing.
As far as the engine goes, if I had to do it over, I would buy a long block with stock cast iron heads and a quadraJet carburetor. I am not looking so much for performance as I am dependability and economy.
@@timewiththedurbins You may be correct. Probably better than tinkering with the top end. Once you get used to EFI, it is pretty easy starting a new tune. Most stuff on these vehicles run on vacuum so if something pops ( vacuum leak) you gotta retune or find the leak. The vacuum controls the recirc flap, headlamps, smog switches and of course the brake boost and trans shift solenoid. Carb would be less problematic with leaks unless you keep up on it like I do.
I should be I doubt he would give it to me. I blame myself. I would have found the issues if I would have assembled the engine myself. Live and learn. The frustrating thing is I spend the same amount for the rebuild as I spend for the short block.
Your diagnosis of head to block angles were spot on to my thoughts. Most of time its heads being decked numerous times to point of no return in relation to intake angles. Crazy torque on head bolts are mystery. Assume head surfaces are completely flat ?? Brought back old memory of my 68 when you started dissembling top end. Pretty much exact duplicate of mine. See ya in 4 weeks plus or minus. Bummer.
That's the bad thing about buying something that has already been reworked. You don't know what has been done to it and if it was done correctly. This is the last time I will rebuild an engine that has already been rebuilt. LIve and learn. I hope to post videos while I am waiting for the short block to be ready. I have a video coming out this Sunday on the Edelbrock heads. There have been videos posted on TH-cam from other people about the quality of the heads and some of the issues they have encountered. I will also have at least one video on removing the rest of the old engine. I also want to do a video on replacing the seals and gaskets in the Muncie 4 speed transmission. Have a Merry Christmas.
@@timewiththedurbins We are planning a road trip to Florida in spring. Visiting old buds from military. Hope Florida is put back together by then. Merry Christmas to you all.
I'm building a 383 to replace original 75 in my 4 speed manual c3. Going to store original for rebuild. Carb or efi? Leaning sniper efi. Thanks and good luck
Good luck with your rebuild. I think the biggest thing with EFI is to route your wires so there is no electrical interference that will affect the performance of the EFI.
I don't know your experience level but I can tell from this video that the block should have been sleeved in that one cylinder at least, it has some very bad pitting.
So incredibly helpful to see someone as experienced as you to have to struggle and bit, and then really solve the issues so well. Thank you!
Thanks. It's definitely been a learning experience. I ended up replacing the short block with a reman one.
Good pointing out all the issues. There is a lot to be not just concerned about, but alarmed.
Thanks, it was definitely a learning experience.
Great videos. Really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos.
Very informative. 👍
Thanks
I agree with your wife on getting the short block. If it was my Vette, I would have gone with a new 383 stroker long block with around 400 HP to avoid the issues with a rebuild. I'm thinking of going this route on my 71, but my engine runs too good to just rip it out. It's numbers matching and it only has 74K original miles, but it sure is a slow pig... especially compared to my 2016 Camaro SS. I would definitely like more power, and I don't mind spending the $6K for the 383... my only issue is, my stock engine runs so well. Tough decision for me. Great video as always Mark, but that guy who built your engine doesn't seem very impressive to date. Merry Christmas!
If my car would have had the numbers matching engine with only 74k miles and ran good I would have never changed it. Even though the original motor was not a power house, at my age, I'm not so concerned about power as much as I am about reliability. When I was younger I was all about going fast. Nowadays tickets are too expensive. LOL There were a lot of mistakes made when they rebuilt this engine. Live and learn.
The car probably needs a engine bay refresh so cleaning and painting is easier with the engine out. Put the original engine with all of the OEM part in storage so you can install the 383. When you get tired, bored or even want to sell it make the switch back to the numbers matching.
Just don’t let the motor go missing.
I did an engine bay refresh earlier this summer when I did the engine the first time. I will clean it up again before I put the new engine in. I am going to cover the old engine in plastic and put it in a storage shed I have. It is not the original engine out of the car. I think it came out of a 72. It is still worth something.
Not sure if my sbc has 70K or 170K. I do wanna swap out the heads but I am in your predicament as it does burn a bit of oil. Hopefully from the valve seals (Oring type) . Decided I'll just run it into the ground until a blown head gasket or way to much oil burning before I do anything. Good info on the lifter rods as Jegs didn't tell me about the .100 extra or the new plugs needed. Already have EZ efi on the engine. It was the best thing I've done to the vehicle. Driveability is amazing.
As far as the engine goes, if I had to do it over, I would buy a long block with stock cast iron heads and a quadraJet carburetor. I am not looking so much for performance as I am dependability and economy.
@@timewiththedurbins You may be correct. Probably better than tinkering with the top end. Once you get used to EFI, it is pretty easy starting a new tune. Most stuff on these vehicles run on vacuum so if something pops ( vacuum leak) you gotta retune or find the leak.
The vacuum controls the recirc flap, headlamps, smog switches and of course the brake boost and trans shift solenoid. Carb would be less problematic with leaks unless you keep up on it like I do.
@@operationsword9457 My goal is to eliminate as many places for a vacuum leak as possible.
@@timewiththedurbins Good to have a hand held vacuum pump for these rigs...
You should demand your money back for that slop job!!!!!! Nice video, Sis 👍
I should be I doubt he would give it to me. I blame myself. I would have found the issues if I would have assembled the engine myself. Live and learn. The frustrating thing is I spend the same amount for the rebuild as I spend for the short block.
Your diagnosis of head to block angles were spot on to my thoughts. Most of time its heads being decked numerous times to point of no return in relation to intake angles. Crazy torque on head bolts are mystery. Assume head surfaces are completely flat ?? Brought back old memory of my 68 when you started dissembling top end. Pretty much exact duplicate of mine. See ya in 4 weeks plus or minus. Bummer.
That's the bad thing about buying something that has already been reworked. You don't know what has been done to it and if it was done correctly. This is the last time I will rebuild an engine that has already been rebuilt. LIve and learn. I hope to post videos while I am waiting for the short block to be ready. I have a video coming out this Sunday on the Edelbrock heads. There have been videos posted on TH-cam from other people about the quality of the heads and some of the issues they have encountered. I will also have at least one video on removing the rest of the old engine. I also want to do a video on replacing the seals and gaskets in the Muncie 4 speed transmission. Have a Merry Christmas.
@@timewiththedurbins We are planning a road trip to Florida in spring. Visiting old buds from military. Hope Florida is put back together by then. Merry Christmas to you all.
Hopefully things will be back to normal just in time for Hurricane Season 2023. LOL
Good video, very informative. Too bad the heads were leaking oil….
Thanks
I'm building a 383 to replace original 75 in my 4 speed manual c3. Going to store original for rebuild. Carb or efi? Leaning sniper efi. Thanks and good luck
Good luck with your rebuild. I think the biggest thing with EFI is to route your wires so there is no electrical interference that will affect the performance of the EFI.
DO NOT discard or throw out the original pieces. Even the original nut and bolts are worth money for a purist.
That is very good advice. I save all my old parts, even the old hoses.
I don't know your experience level but I can tell from this video that the block should have been sleeved in that one cylinder at least, it has some very bad pitting.
I felt the same way. I didn't know the engine shop did not do that until I tore the engine down. That was why I went with a new short block.