@@1RoadGarage my grandfather was an old farmer. He always said if a man built it you can repair it. Pay attention to how it comes apart and you'll know how it goes back together. Last but not least never start with the most expensive repair first. People always think this is a disaster and will be so expensive. Often it's a simple fix start small work your way up. Thanks for posting quality videos.
@@rab3137 yes that is something I've always lived.....I constantly say and tell my children, if somebody else can do it, there's no reason I can't do it and do it better.... the main thing is not being afraid to try
Reminds me of my first timing belt job on my 2005 Pilot. Same, took me 2-3 days to put together in December of 2021. I had to tackle my intake manifold to change injectors. I was less nervous about it. Great job!
Jimmy. I've been repairing & rebuilding cars for almost 60 years, and I got to say you did a great job. Not only completing the job, but also giving a great play by play description on how to do it. Great job !!!
You did an excellent fantastic job from disassembly to labeling, to cleaning, to taking your time, to photographing, to reassembly. You r truly a perfectionist!
Just like many other seasoned veterans I'll also say good job. Don't worry about how long it takes you, the end result is what counts & you did a fantastic job. It's better to go at a comfortable pace & do it right the FIRST time rather than rush things & end up having to do it all over again. Looks like you keep things clean & organized, that right there does wonders for any job. It does pay off to label everything even if you think you know exactly where it all goes. Sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause you to take a break in the middle of the job & that's when labeling & documenting it all really pays off. The camera on your phone is a great tool to use in doing that. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
I am a master automotive technician for 40 plus years tip you should have put rtv on both sides of the of the intake manifold gasket at the water ports and put some lubricant on the distributor drive gear love to watch your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
I've done so many of those I could do them in 30 minutes. It's best to just sit your intake onto the gaskets and start some bolts (don't tighten them all the way) so you can look and see how much glue you need. It will vary especially in cases of gasket changes, machining or block being decked.
25 years ago I had a coolant leak on my 1995 , it was only a couple years old and I was in a pinch. I removed it, cleaned it and put it back together without gaskets just using Permatex Right Stuff. I only barely snugged the bolts up then let it cure for 24hrs. Then I torqued according to spec, haven't had any leaks or grief since and am well over 300k
Excellent job Jimmy! Been waiting to see this one. I've replaced the fuel injection Spyder on my '97 Suburban and that plastic plenum was painful. I wanted to do the whole intake but that distributor process had me nervous, so I never did. My '99 K2500 Suburban has the tiniest leak right in front where that gasket maker is poking out and I really want to do this job before heading out overlanding. Your video has given me the courage to try it as soon as my arm (rotator cuff surgery) is healed up. Thanks for sharing. Glad to see you back doing mechanic stuff again!
I'm a plumber, nowhere near a mechanic, but actually able to apply some basic crossover principles, and I'm about to tackle the plenum upper and lower intake gaskets....2003 Ford e-150 4.2L Econoline .... Taking all of the tips from different videos for different tricks. Good idea with pics and labels!
I'm in the process of doing all this now..... waiting right now for new camshaft and lifters to come in...... I've never done anything beyond changing oil, plugs, rebuilding tbi, small tune up stuff like that..... I'm scared to death that it won't run when I get it back together but I have confidence in my work (at least I keep telling myself that lol).... Thanks for the video and if you wanna see my solution to oil cooler lines leaking, I posted a video......I think it's the best possible solution, at least it's better than anything I've seen yet... KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!
By the way, I have been on this for a month now, replacing ALL grounds, power steering pump, starter, intake gasket, valve covers, camshaft, etc etc..... thank God I work for myself and can take the time off or it would take me a year🤣🤣
Been troubleshooting a high idle of my 5.7 350 Chevy G20 for a month now. I've replaced a ton of sensors, valves, and gaskets w no luck. I used your videos several times especially w removing and rebuilding the throttle body. Only thing i can think of now is that i have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold and need to replace the gaskets. This video is top notch. You really go all in w every detail and i can't thank you enough for making these videos so thoroughly. Not sure yet if i'll do this myself or take the van somewhere... it's honestly nerve racking both ways as i just don't just shops to actually do a good job no matter where i take it.. i've had so many bad experiences. So might end up just attempting this myself. Anyway, thanks for the excellent play by play you're a real champ for this.
you might try to just retorque the manifold bolts. I bet you could take some heavy cardboard and make a block off gasket to put between the throttlebody and use a vaccum pump to pull a vaccum on the intake but you would need to art least loosten the rocker arms to let all the valves close.
Hey Jimmy, I got a 98’ Z71 with 225K miles on it now and I have had to do this twice. The 1st time I had a mechanic do it at around 120K and he explained that those 98’ 350s gaskets were notorious for going out around 100K because GM got some that were paper thin in places. At 215K, my father-in-law and I tackled it again because the gasket and gasket maker failed so bad the truck was acting like it had a vacuum leak! That was a full 10hr Saturday!
Nice. Pretty sure if I had to do it again and didn’t have to film the process, 10 hrs seems about right. 👍 The hardest part of the job is scraping the old gasket.
Jimmy, with that die grinder to clean the intake manifold, thou that disc did work, 1 small slip could spell disaster. I highly recommend the 3M roloc bristle disc's, they are a plastic abrasive gasket cleaner. The attach right to the die grinder, and have 3 different "grits" green, yellow and white, the white one is a 120 grit that is great on aluminum. I use them almost everyday doing valve covers, diff covers and head gaskets in my engine shop. I highly recommend checking th out.
if your going to replace the cap and rotor, you can drill a hole thru the cap into the rotor with an 1/8 drill bit for and alignment hole. Then just mark the distributer base where it contacts the block and it will be perfect.
Awesome! Highfive dude. Fixin to tackle my 91 v2500 suburban.. watching this has helped clarify the unknown a bit for me aswell. Ive been following your videos and appreciate the time you put into these videos. Ive been through hell and back with my suburban though definitley wouldnt trade it or sell it for anything at this point. Been a sacrafice and learning curve that has changed my life. Its tough enough to find clear concise information for the DIYer so your videos really make a huge difference for some of us here on the tube. Thanks jimmy! Kudos and Keep on truckin!
I have a carbide edged scrapers that works miracles. They are called Super Scrapers. Well worth the money. Also I use thread sealant on the manifold bolts, the bosses are open in the valley so oil can seep through and up the threads of the bolts.
You did a great job explaining why and showing us where. Just an incredible job of being so thorough. Keep up the great work. A lot of people can benefit from this video.
I like how you took your time and marked everything on the distributor, a friend of mine had a similar suburban to yours and he had to replace the engine,when he put his distributor back he was off exactly 180 degrees.
@@1RoadGarage it won't ruin anything it just won't start. One thing you didn't have to do was to set the engine at TDC. It doesn't matter where the distributor is when you pull it out AS LONG AS YOU MARK IT WHERE IT IS BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT (the capps were not meant as shouting but just to stress that you can do this just by marking the beginning and ending points of the rotor button. The only time you need to do what you did is if you had rotated the engine after you had removed the distributor. Other than that you did an excellent job as you always do.
@@1RoadGarage it ran rough on start up and backfired, then my friend’s dad flopped the distributor 180 degrees and it fired right up. Fortunately no noticeable damage from the few seconds it ran.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610 I was wondering about that. If I simplify popped out that distributor and did the job and put it back in exactly as it was, how would the truck know any difference? Maybe it’s a default safety thing? 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage They start at top dead center if you just want to figure out where everything goes. Once you have the piston topped off during the compression stroke, then you know where to point your rotor. At #1. Then you use the timing light to position the rotor to the cap in the precise location that it requires to run properly. It's not nearly as complicated as it seems at first but if you visualize everything that's moving, and why, it makes sense in a pretty straightforward way.
Helluva job my friend. I deleted the egr because of all the gunk I found in my manifold. I thought it might run differently but I can’t tell any difference. Again, I was impressed with your thoughtfulness of your work!
You will only notice the egr in temperature extremes. (Really hot or really cold) The problem is created because the factory ecm accounts for a reduction in combustion temps that aren't there. Long term, you may get lower Long term Fuel Trims and maybe a CEL.
Great job. I have done this same job on a 1985 460 Ford engine. Process was almost identical. It takes time to do it right for sure. I took two days to do mine.
A tip I learned a long time ago is to take a punch and make little divets along the sealing surface on the end rails of the block. Helps the RTV to have somewhere to squeeze into
I'm currently doing head gaskets on a 4.3 vortec in my 97 Blazer. That means also doing the valve cover gaskets, lower intake manifold gaskets All gaskets, really. Also doing new rockers, push rods, valves and so on while I'm in there. It's a lot of fun.
I had to do this on my TDI. You are very careful and document it well. However, I think a good engine degrease and thorough pressure wash prior would have made part of this much easier.
at least 10 years or so ago, Holley had a larger 670CFM replacement throttle body available. There was an Edelbrock dual-plane intake with larger throttle body ports as well. Those were worthy upgrades on these TBI engines...did it in my chevy van!
MAN I love watching you do stuff! The problem is it motivates me to do stuff too. Then I spend all day in the garage and the wife gets crankier. HAHA! Thanks Jimmy!
As a fellow '95 Chevy Truck owner, I will be performing the exact same procedure. As an auto mechanic for more than 22 years I can tell you that you did a great job. You have earned your first stripe. Thanks and take care.
Try 3M 18730 discs for cleaning cast and aluminum. No sanding grit being slung into the engine. GM came out with a bulletin saying not to use the sanding discs anymore. Just a thiught
Just for information, all BOSCH distributors have a factory made mark indicating where the centre of the rotor arm should be for cylinder 1 at top dead centre, its a small groove line on the top of the distributor body right under the cap, this mark used with the crankshaft timing marks can be used for static timing the ignition
In fact it's not really necessary to put the crank at TDC firing #1 if you don't move the crank during your repair. It is only necessary to make the mark for the distributor position and the two rotor positions. Note though that on many engines the oil pump is turned via a drive rod that fits into the bottom end of the distributor drive gear. if you have gotten the distributor in correctly but it's not seating all the way into its hole then the pump shaft may have turned a bit. In this case once the distributor is in you'll need to turn the crank a bit to get the distributor end to line up with the pump shaft, the distributor will then fall into place. RTV isn't necessarily a big problem if a little of it falls into the engine, it's soft and it will simply get chewed up in the oil pump gears. Just don't get a big glob in there that could block or plug up some oil passage. Otherwise, very nice job.
@@Floyd12345 if it sets long enough and the intake valve happens to be open some you will get coolant on top of the piston, some will go on and leak past the rings but it could leave enough in the cylinder to liquid lock when the piston comes up and bend the rod, the thing is even if it starts the oil in the crankcase now has water in it and if enough water sets in the bottom it will get sucked up by the oil pump and go into the bearings and probably ruin the bearings and crankshaft.
chevy created this problem with the longlife coolant that erodes away the gasket around the waterports, chev also sells coolant maintenance sealer for their caddies and chevs actually just a stop leak to sort of fix it without pulling the manifold. if you do fix it dont use the gaskets that have the plastic or neophrene rubber molded in rings, just use normal gaskets or permatex right stuff on a really clean surface.
A bit late to the party, but thought I would add my 2 cents. I have the L05 5.7 engine 1989 Chevy K1500. To pull the distributor move crank pully to TDC on compression stroke. Two ways to determine... 1. Pull distributor cap, rotor needs to point to the front of the engine or toward cyl #1. 2. Use spark plug adapter and zip tie a finger off a rubber glove to it, turn crank until the finger expands, then continue moving the crank to line up the crank pully. Now mark the cap, distributor and base, so it lines up when installed. Do not move the crank until the distributor is reinstalled. If the distributor does not fall into place, use screwdriver to move the oil pump drive, however if you have to do that, possible you might be off a tooth.
Nice job. The only things I would have done differently would be cleaning the engine thoroughly, and replacing the valve cover gaskets before starting. My thinking is if I'm going through all of the hassle of replacing the intake manifold gasket, I'm going all the way and stopping any potential oil leaks from the valve covers too. On a side note, count me as someone who thinks that you probably skimped with the RTV sealant on the China walls. Whenever I watch the pros on other channels, including Engine Power, they always apply a thick bead, probably twice as thick as the bead you laid down. Anyhow I hope it lasts and wish you luck. Keep up the good work.
The gaskets that come with the FelPro 98000 set are far superior. They are aluminum with bonded rubber. The only problem is that you can only get them as part of that set, so they cost a bit more; however, it is well worth the investment as they will not fail as others do. It's all I use on SBC jobs. The 98000 is for Vortech intakes, but they also make one for the non-vortech intake.
I'm going to have to do this soon I think. I have a GM 3800 Series 2, still using the orange coolant. Most of it is new as I lost a lot when I replaced the 2 plastic coolant elbows and again when I just replaced the water pump. I had to add a lot after replacing that. When I end up having to do the upper and lower intake gaskets I will flush it all out and put the regular green stuff in it.
If it runs the orange stuff from the factory it's probably not a good idea to change to another type. Coolants have different formulas for different engines. Make sure before you change, that green has the proper formulation for your engine.
Perfect timing for this video as I have to do this on my 1988 Chevy Silverado. I’ll be installing a new distributor and coil when I reinstall the intake manifold.
amazing attention to detail. Im a mechanic for a living and would welcome someone like you to work on my own vehicle.....as long as Im not paying hourly. lol
Jimmy I did my upper and lower gasket replacement and power washing the intakes and cleaning the top part of the engine all in 13 hrs here at my apartment 98 Ford E250 van 4.2 liter V6 Essex engine
Looks like you did a good job. My only advice would be careful about using the sanding discs they almost all contain aluminum oxide which can embed and damage engine bearings. Some will also leave the surface too course which can literally scrub off the gasket with thermal expansion over time. Secondly the only silicone I will use anymore is permatex right stuff 1 minute gasket maker. Trust me I’ve used it thousands of times. Lastly I’m a little more on the generous with the silicone and make sure to get it in the corners below and on top of the gasket.
Long ago, GM published a bulletin about the discs. The debris (disc and gasket and carbon) get thrown everywhere and can have a negative effect on engine bearing life, and can compromise flatness in some scenarios. The manifold I like to surface with a fine sanding block before getting it clean enough to eat off of. Cleaning the heads is the tedious part... The grey silicone (Yamabond and friends) is what most manufacturers use now...I use that or what is available. Toyota's black sealant is really nice too. Chevy's like to wick oil up the intake bolts...best to put a little white Permatex thread sealant on them... Agreeing with you and adding my 2 cents...
Nothing like those "elephant in the room" repairs that start as a mild concern but you know very well you're going to have to address before it becomes a major problem. Anyone who's been forced to deal with the dreaded o-ring replacement on the oil pump pickup in the early 2000's GM full-size 4WD will know EXACTLY what I'm talking about.
Your local mechanic is not going to be as detailed and/or as concerned. Good job overall. I’m surprised you didn’t do the valve cover gaskets as you were already in there.
Just for the future, if you drench those cast intakes in LAs totally awesome, scrub it with a toothbrush, and rinse with hot water it will pull most of the oil and grime out of the cast and come out looking almost brand new
if it leaks at the ends dont despair, just spray it with brake cleaner, let it dry and with your finger push more of the grey permatex up into the channel from one side to the other, let it dry on a warm day overnight and see how that works. dont stop till it is done from one side to the other, you will probably have to do the dist job again but it will go quicker the 2nd time around.
Great job... always slow doing something on a vehicle/motor.....still wanted you to do a meet-n-greet. I'm in Memphis and followed you for years now... would love to hangout with you on Broad Street or camping somewhere...thank you for all you do....
Just a tip be careful with those scotch brite wheels. I know you said you were, but they can definitely eat away at aluminum fast like you said. They also deposit abrasives, so never use them on head and block mating surfaces where those abrasives can get into the crank case.
Funny how all these videos use Fel Pro gaskets for the intake manifold on these trucks. Before I started I emailed Fel Pro they said do not use our gaskets we don’t make proper gaskets for those years of trucks, then pull out the back rear ports you’ll notice the little pinhole in the Fel Pro gaskets. The OEM gaskets are the correct ones to use for this truck.
One thing I want to make you aware of these engines are pretty much bullet proof they're well built but make sure you change the rod and main bearings the reason is that that's there major fail when they do fail. It's not very common but does happen anytime I buy a used Chevy truck that's the first thing I do not cause it needs it but parts do wear over time and this will keep you from having catastrophic failure and the parts aren't expensive the job is pretty easy to. Also while you're there go ahead and replace the oil pump too there's nothing better than knowing you'll have no major issues that could cause you too spend a lot of money
Before you take anything apart, take out your cell phone and take several pictures. Try to get 2 angles of every disconnect, hose routing, anything that looks "busy". Lots of busy under Jimmy's air filter. Most of the time it is NOT necessary to label connectors. There is almost always enough difference in them and were they lay that getting them mixed up is not the problem, it's getting the routing right going back together...PICTURES. I'm not telling novices not to label connectors though. If you do, make sure to remove them when you are done so you don't have a gooey mess to clean up 2 weeks later.
Doing this on a TBI motor would be a vacation lol I had to do head gaskets on a 97' Tahoe with a Vortec and just getting to where the intake was removed was irritating. Re-assembly was even worse.
I did my first head gasket n intake gasket job on tbi motor a few years ago. Had hard time with getting timing correct even marked it lol easy motor to learn on👍
cleaning the manifold (both half's) took all day. The rtv, i like to cut a v shaped grove in the tip and lay the bead that way - sort of like doing a windshield
The way you marked the distributor makes it a no Brainer , good job. I use the toyota rtv , I think it's the best you can buy.1/4 inch bead works perfect. Great video brother.
Imagine the labor to access the intake manifold. My Taurus was so simple it was an 06. This engineering and planning had no thought of maintenance imo.
i had to spray guide coat over the alum manifold intake ports and sand it to get the manifold flat so it would seal. my intake gasket sagged down into the engine producing a massive vac leak - my had would stick to the oil filler tube under the vacuum! Idle was at 1500rpm with that leak.
Hi Jimmy When it comes to a liquid gasket maker like silicone sealant the fine line is have I put enough on or have I put too much on. The rule of thumb in the olden days before 1996 electronics is one third of the flange width is the maximum width of the sealant to be put down the minimum amount of sealant is one quarter of the width of the flange. Nower day's it is between 2mm and 6mm of sealant depending on manufacturers specifications like the vehicle manufacturers says 3mm but the manufacturers of the silicone says 5mm so first attempt you go with vehicle spec it starts to leak, then you try the silicone spec it is too much, so 3rd try in between let's try 4mm it dose the trick. The vehicle manufacturers silicone is of a denser mix than the after market ones, plus the factory gunk always splurges out they are never a clean look so they don't care on how much is put on just is it sealed. But most of all Jimmy very good, clean work you are showing the not so friendly mechanic's to shame in how to do the job correctly and cleanly.
Thank you for your comment. I agree with you, during my ‘research’ I found many different ways of doing it. Ultimately came down to what I thought was the correct method but of course second guessed myself once it was done. I don’t know why those two areas can’t have a rubberized pre-made gasket that we can set into place though??
Wrong coolant, get you 4 -5 gallons of that green 50/50 mix. I've also done head gaskets on a 305 tbi before (kind of the same as 350 tbi ) fairly easy.
It's really not as hard as it seems but my best advice is do your homework first. Label your connections and you will also find that a lot of the connections are unique to that particular part... You'll see what I mean. Torque specs also with the sequence is very important and also check the fuel rail for leaks. It's not as easy as changing the spark plugs but it's way easier than changing out a head gasket or a cam. Just pay attention to what you're doing and don't be in a hurry and for beginners... Don't be drinking any beers or you won't be able to remember where things went. Also I want to add, before removing the fuel rail and doing any of this work, pull the relay for the fuel pump and then go to start your engine to relieve the fuel pressure so that once you disconnect the fuel rail, fuel doesn't go flying everywhere... It's under pressure and this will get rid of that pressure 👍🗽🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm restoring a 1971 citroen van and need to replace the intake manifold gasket. What material should the intake manifold gasket be made of? I tried some gasket maker materials but they failed.
Frequently never realized Protip - every connector on the harness is unique and will only mate with their counterpart. I'm also aware this is not a 100% universal truth but close enough that it doesn't matter
Just wait until you find out that it will start leaking again after 1 year. Not a perfect design. Nice work anyway! Edit: I would be sure to verify ignition timing! I like to run these trucks 1-2° advanced.
Those fel pro gaskets will look just like those original gaskets the next time you go to change them. Because they compress down and get all stiff and brittle over time 👍
Try to do the best clean job you can . I have done many of those intake manifold gaskets and it takes why it takes to do it right . so days is just fine with me . But think about a shop can do it in about 2 hours but it not enough time clean things like they should be . It takes me about 6 hours so just how clean do you think shops do it . absolutely not doing it the right no way . great job you did it right .
I hear the discs are banned under warranty repair as the dust they create has abrasive particles that eat your bearings up.... dealerships are not allowed to use those after diagnosing repeat failed engines and finding particles in the bearings.
@@1RoadGarage Hopefully someone who works at these dealerships could chime in on how they get around this - from what I have read so far, it's back to razor blades and strong solvents.
Great video. Your neighbours must be able to hear you yelling a block away 😉. I have to turn your videos way down. This looks a lot more involved than the one on my '99 6.0L. My son has a '95 K1500 4x4 with 330,000kms on it, but I'm not sure that we'll tackle this unless needed...😁
Curious if you were getting a check engine light from the EGR system before doing this job, and be curious if it has gone away. I expect when I finally do this job on my 95 with 200k+ miles that I will be pulling A LOT more junk out of the EGR passages.
I think you need to double check the timing with a timing light. Unplug the timing control wire and set it to 0⁰ btdc at idle. Then lock the distributor in place. The stock timing curve is ridiculously conservative. I like to set tbi 350s at 6⁰btdc for a little better power and fuel economy. More than that and the knock sensor will likely hear activity and batch retard the timing. Spark timing is very important. 1⁰ or 2⁰ is very easy to miss.. even when lining up marks and putting things back how you found them. If your timing is too late, your flame front will be chasing the piston down the hole. If it's too early, the flame will try to jam the piston backwards down the bore before it hits tdc. Ideal power and efficiency come from peak cylinder pressure at about 12⁰atdc. The flame front needs time to grow and meet the piston face and begin to drive it downwards. You'll see around 25⁰ of spark advance at idle of about 650rpm. The mixture isn't very dense and takes longer to combust than a denser mixture at wide open throttle. While the piston is moving slowly, the spark advance gives the kernel the time it needs to build peak cylinder pressure at 12⁰atdc. To set an engine's ideal base timing, you should tune for peak vacuum and subtract 2⁰. My supercharged 355 likes 30⁰ of spark advance at idle and n/a 38⁰@wot.. and 28⁰ under wot at 9.5psi. I advance the timing with engine speed and pull timing as load increases (vacuum decreases). There's a nice custom curve ranging from 17⁰ to 50⁰ of spark advance.
Boy your way over the heads of a lot of viewers on here. Why if he put everything back to exactly he marked and that it runs good why would that be wrong? I'm no mechanic for sure but most of the people watching would do exactly what he did.
Dude, Eric, that all sounds great and I wish I knew what you know but I understand about 1% of what you just said. I have in the past checked and slightly adjusted my timing. If I remember correctly there was a brown and tan wire under the glove box area and I had to have the engine fully warmed up. But, you’re right, I should check it again. 👍
@@alanmerritt860 sorry. I go a little overboard sometimes. Spark timing is actually more important than air:fuel ratio when it comes to power and economy.. Although if the engine is pig-rich and puking black smoke, economy will suffer. I like to get every ounce of power out of my engines. Yes, his marks lined up closely. But being just a hair off his original marks could a few degrees. . In either direction. Tbi motors have about 25⁰ of spark advance at idle. The advance increases a bit while driving. If the timing is off, Jimmy could just be wasting gas. Every degree counts. I feel like he backed into a win here. I'm glad that it feels fine and sounds ok.. but it could easily be off by a few degrees. Too much could cause engine damage and too little can cause performance to suffer. It's just something that I always double check when I pull a distributor.
@@1RoadGarageyes. The tan wire with a black stripe is the timing control wire. In the later tbi stuff, it's behind the glove box. In the early stuff, it's under the hood near the firewall behind the distributor. You showed the timing pointer a few times so I know you know where it's at. Timing lights are kind of a thing of the past, but they are an important tool to keep these old trucks on the road. 96+ trucks have a distributor but don't have a timing mark on the front cover. Thanks for keeping that truck alive. She's a beauty.
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Nothing better than finishing a job the first time with good results. The hardest part of most jobs is taking the risk into the unknown.
Yep. Felt good. Thanks 👍
@@1RoadGarage my grandfather was an old farmer. He always said if a man built it you can repair it. Pay attention to how it comes apart and you'll know how it goes back together. Last but not least never start with the most expensive repair first. People always think this is a disaster and will be so expensive. Often it's a simple fix start small work your way up. Thanks for posting quality videos.
@@rab3137 I like that, “if a man built it, you can repair it”. I’m gonna remember that one. Thanks for the tips.
@@rab3137 yes that is something I've always lived.....I constantly say and tell my children, if somebody else can do it, there's no reason I can't do it and do it better.... the main thing is not being afraid to try
Reminds me of my first timing belt job on my 2005 Pilot. Same, took me 2-3 days to put together in December of 2021. I had to tackle my intake manifold to change injectors. I was less nervous about it.
Great job!
Jimmy. I've been repairing & rebuilding cars for almost 60 years, and I got to say you did a great job. Not only completing the job, but also giving a great play by play description on how to do it. Great job !!!
Thank you for that. 🤙
sure ! he really has a great teacher approach 👏🏻👍🏻
You have faced your fear and come out victorious in the end.
Congratulations !!!!
You did an excellent fantastic job from disassembly to labeling, to cleaning, to taking your time, to photographing, to reassembly. You r truly a perfectionist!
Just like many other seasoned veterans I'll also say good job. Don't worry about how long it takes you, the end result is what counts & you did a fantastic job. It's better to go at a comfortable pace & do it right the FIRST time rather than rush things & end up having to do it all over again. Looks like you keep things clean & organized, that right there does wonders for any job. It does pay off to label everything even if you think you know exactly where it all goes. Sometimes unforeseen circumstances cause you to take a break in the middle of the job & that's when labeling & documenting it all really pays off. The camera on your phone is a great tool to use in doing that. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
I am a master automotive technician for 40 plus years tip you should have put rtv on both sides of the of the intake manifold gasket at the water ports and put some lubricant on the distributor drive gear love to watch your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
I've done so many of those I could do them in 30 minutes. It's best to just sit your intake onto the gaskets and start some bolts (don't tighten them all the way) so you can look and see how much glue you need. It will vary especially in cases of gasket changes, machining or block being decked.
25 years ago I had a coolant leak on my 1995 , it was only a couple years old and I was in a pinch. I removed it, cleaned it and put it back together without gaskets just using Permatex Right Stuff. I only barely snugged the bolts up then let it cure for 24hrs. Then I torqued according to spec, haven't had any leaks or grief since and am well over 300k
Excellent job Jimmy! Been waiting to see this one. I've replaced the fuel injection Spyder on my '97 Suburban and that plastic plenum was painful. I wanted to do the whole intake but that distributor process had me nervous, so I never did. My '99 K2500 Suburban has the tiniest leak right in front where that gasket maker is poking out and I really want to do this job before heading out overlanding. Your video has given me the courage to try it as soon as my arm (rotator cuff surgery) is healed up. Thanks for sharing. Glad to see you back doing mechanic stuff again!
I'm a plumber, nowhere near a mechanic, but actually able to apply some basic crossover principles, and I'm about to tackle the plenum upper and lower intake gaskets....2003 Ford e-150 4.2L Econoline .... Taking all of the tips from different videos for different tricks. Good idea with pics and labels!
I'm in the process of doing all this now..... waiting right now for new camshaft and lifters to come in......
I've never done anything beyond changing oil, plugs, rebuilding tbi, small tune up stuff like that..... I'm scared to death that it won't run when I get it back together but I have confidence in my work (at least I keep telling myself that lol)....
Thanks for the video and if you wanna see my solution to oil cooler lines leaking, I posted a video......I think it's the best possible solution, at least it's better than anything I've seen yet...
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!
By the way, I have been on this for a month now, replacing ALL grounds, power steering pump, starter, intake gasket, valve covers, camshaft, etc etc..... thank God I work for myself and can take the time off or it would take me a year🤣🤣
Been troubleshooting a high idle of my 5.7 350 Chevy G20 for a month now. I've replaced a ton of sensors, valves, and gaskets w no luck. I used your videos several times especially w removing and rebuilding the throttle body. Only thing i can think of now is that i have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold and need to replace the gaskets. This video is top notch. You really go all in w every detail and i can't thank you enough for making these videos so thoroughly. Not sure yet if i'll do this myself or take the van somewhere... it's honestly nerve racking both ways as i just don't just shops to actually do a good job no matter where i take it.. i've had so many bad experiences. So might end up just attempting this myself. Anyway, thanks for the excellent play by play you're a real champ for this.
you might try to just retorque the manifold bolts. I bet you could take some heavy cardboard and make a block off gasket to put between the throttlebody and use a vaccum pump to pull a vaccum on the intake but you would need to art least loosten the rocker arms to let all the valves close.
Hey Jimmy, I got a 98’ Z71 with 225K miles on it now and I have had to do this twice. The 1st time I had a mechanic do it at around 120K and he explained that those 98’ 350s gaskets were notorious for going out around 100K because GM got some that were paper thin in places. At 215K, my father-in-law and I tackled it again because the gasket and gasket maker failed so bad the truck was acting like it had a vacuum leak! That was a full 10hr Saturday!
Nice. Pretty sure if I had to do it again and didn’t have to film the process, 10 hrs seems about right. 👍 The hardest part of the job is scraping the old gasket.
I have done my 98 twice, it is painful. I upgraded the fuel injector spider as well.
I did that exact job on the side of the road in a school bus , took 4 hours... It's been 4 years and still going strong
U have every good mechanics thoughts get it done triple check everything u did talking to ur self helps a lot 💯 reconfirms every thing 😂
Man, I recall the first time I put the distributor back in my 350. The notch for the oil pump moved a little and had me stumped for a while. 😂
I was hoping that wouldn’t happen to me. 👍
Jimmy, with that die grinder to clean the intake manifold, thou that disc did work, 1 small slip could spell disaster. I highly recommend the 3M roloc bristle disc's, they are a plastic abrasive gasket cleaner. The attach right to the die grinder, and have 3 different "grits" green, yellow and white, the white one is a 120 grit that is great on aluminum. I use them almost everyday doing valve covers, diff covers and head gaskets in my engine shop. I highly recommend checking th out.
Oh my god, that thing is so clean and rust-free, must be a dream to work on!
Doing your own repairs is an excellent idea, because it enables rapidly amassing a varied collection of spare parts for future repairs.
if your going to replace the cap and rotor, you can drill a hole thru the cap into the rotor with an 1/8 drill bit for and alignment hole. Then just mark the distributer base where it contacts the block and it will be perfect.
Jimmy, looks like you did a very thorough job in replacing the intake manifold gasket. Something you don’t want to rush.
The money saved is well worth it ! GOOD JOB ! Pictures also help out with replacement
Awesome! Highfive dude. Fixin to tackle my 91 v2500 suburban.. watching this has helped clarify the unknown a bit for me aswell. Ive been following your videos and appreciate the time you put into these videos. Ive been through hell and back with my suburban though definitley wouldnt trade it or sell it for anything at this point. Been a sacrafice and learning curve that has changed my life. Its tough enough to find clear concise information for the DIYer so your videos really make a huge difference for some of us here on the tube. Thanks jimmy! Kudos and Keep on truckin!
I have a carbide edged scrapers that works miracles. They are called Super Scrapers. Well worth the money. Also I use thread sealant on the manifold bolts, the bosses are open in the valley so oil can seep through and up the threads of the bolts.
You did a great job explaining why and showing us where. Just an incredible job of being so thorough. Keep up the great work.
A lot of people can benefit from this video.
I like how you took your time and marked everything on the distributor, a friend of mine had a similar suburban to yours and he had to replace the engine,when he put his distributor back he was off exactly 180 degrees.
What does that do exactly? Did it ruin anything or just not start?
@@1RoadGarage it won't ruin anything it just won't start. One thing you didn't have to do was to set the engine at TDC. It doesn't matter where the distributor is when you pull it out AS LONG AS YOU MARK IT WHERE IT IS BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT (the capps were not meant as shouting but just to stress that you can do this just by marking the beginning and ending points of the rotor button. The only time you need to do what you did is if you had rotated the engine after you had removed the distributor. Other than that you did an excellent job as you always do.
@@1RoadGarage it ran rough on start up and backfired, then my friend’s dad flopped the distributor 180 degrees and it fired right up. Fortunately no noticeable damage from the few seconds it ran.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610 I was wondering about that. If I simplify popped out that distributor and did the job and put it back in exactly as it was, how would the truck know any difference? Maybe it’s a default safety thing? 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage
They start at top dead center if you just want to figure out where everything goes. Once you have the piston topped off during the compression stroke, then you know where to point your rotor.
At #1. Then you use the timing light to position the rotor to the cap in the precise location that it requires to run properly. It's not nearly as complicated as it seems at first but if you visualize everything that's moving, and why, it makes sense in a pretty straightforward way.
Helluva job my friend. I deleted the egr because of all the gunk I found in my manifold. I thought it might run differently but I can’t tell any difference. Again, I was impressed with your thoughtfulness of your work!
You will only notice the egr in temperature extremes. (Really hot or really cold) The problem is created because the factory ecm accounts for a reduction in combustion temps that aren't there. Long term, you may get lower Long term Fuel Trims and maybe a CEL.
Nice Job Jimmy! It's good to see you back wrenching on your vehicles!
It definitely feels good to be working. 👍
Great job. I have done this same job on a 1985 460 Ford engine. Process was almost identical. It takes time to do it right for sure. I took two days to do mine.
A tip I learned a long time ago is to take a punch and make little divets along the sealing surface on the end rails of the block. Helps the RTV to have somewhere to squeeze into
I'm currently doing head gaskets on a 4.3 vortec in my 97 Blazer. That means also doing the valve cover gaskets, lower intake manifold gaskets All gaskets, really. Also doing new rockers, push rods, valves and so on while I'm in there. It's a lot of fun.
I had to do this on my TDI. You are very careful and document it well. However, I think a good engine degrease and thorough pressure wash prior would have made part of this much easier.
Great video, as someone getting ready to try this for the first time, you hit on all the concerns I had with the process.
at least 10 years or so ago, Holley had a larger 670CFM replacement throttle body available. There was an Edelbrock dual-plane intake with larger throttle body ports as well. Those were worthy upgrades on these TBI engines...did it in my chevy van!
MAN I love watching you do stuff! The problem is it motivates me to do stuff too. Then I spend all day in the garage and the wife gets crankier. HAHA! Thanks Jimmy!
You should have used pipe sealant on the corner bolts due to the holes going into the coolant passage.
As a fellow '95 Chevy Truck owner, I will be performing the exact same procedure. As an auto mechanic for more than 22 years I can tell you that you did a great job. You have earned your first stripe. Thanks and take care.
Try 3M 18730 discs for cleaning cast and aluminum. No sanding grit being slung into the engine. GM came out with a bulletin saying not to use the sanding discs anymore. Just a thiught
Good to know, thanks!
Just for information, all BOSCH distributors have a factory made mark indicating where the centre of the rotor arm should be for cylinder 1 at top dead centre, its a small groove line on the top of the distributor body right under the cap, this mark used with the crankshaft timing marks can be used for static timing the ignition
In fact it's not really necessary to put the crank at TDC firing #1 if you don't move the crank during your repair. It is only necessary to make the mark for the distributor position and the two rotor positions. Note though that on many engines the oil pump is turned via a drive rod that fits into the bottom end of the distributor drive gear. if you have gotten the distributor in correctly but it's not seating all the way into its hole then the pump shaft may have turned a bit. In this case once the distributor is in you'll need to turn the crank a bit to get the distributor end to line up with the pump shaft, the distributor will then fall into place.
RTV isn't necessarily a big problem if a little of it falls into the engine, it's soft and it will simply get chewed up in the oil pump gears. Just don't get a big glob in there that could block or plug up some oil passage.
Otherwise, very nice job.
I'm burning coolant out my tail pipes and loosing coolant with no leaks. 1995 gmc 350.
@@Floyd12345 you have a leak from the coolant passage to the cylinder
@@Floyd12345 if it sets long enough and the intake valve happens to be open some you will get coolant on top of the piston, some will go on and leak past the rings but it could leave enough in the cylinder to liquid lock when the piston comes up and bend the rod, the thing is even if it starts the oil in the crankcase now has water in it and if enough water sets in the bottom it will get sucked up by the oil pump and go into the bearings and probably ruin the bearings and crankshaft.
chevy created this problem with the longlife coolant that erodes away the gasket around the waterports, chev also sells coolant maintenance sealer for their caddies and chevs actually just a stop leak to sort of fix it without pulling the manifold. if you do fix it dont use the gaskets that have the plastic or neophrene rubber molded in rings, just use normal gaskets or permatex right stuff on a really clean surface.
A bit late to the party, but thought I would add my 2 cents. I have the L05 5.7 engine 1989 Chevy K1500. To pull the distributor move crank pully to TDC on compression stroke. Two ways to determine... 1. Pull distributor cap, rotor needs to point to the front of the engine or toward cyl #1. 2. Use spark plug adapter and zip tie a finger off a rubber glove to it, turn crank until the finger expands, then continue moving the crank to line up the crank pully. Now mark the cap, distributor and base, so it lines up when installed. Do not move the crank until the distributor is reinstalled. If the distributor does not fall into place, use screwdriver to move the oil pump drive, however if you have to do that, possible you might be off a tooth.
great camera work. very good demonstration. i like that wild little crowfoot you used!
Harbor Freight for that one. Good tool. 👍
Nice job. The only things I would have done differently would be cleaning the engine thoroughly, and replacing the valve cover gaskets before starting. My thinking is if I'm going through all of the hassle of replacing the intake manifold gasket, I'm going all the way and stopping any potential oil leaks from the valve covers too.
On a side note, count me as someone who thinks that you probably skimped with the RTV sealant on the China walls. Whenever I watch the pros on other channels, including Engine Power, they always apply a thick bead, probably twice as thick as the bead you laid down. Anyhow I hope it lasts and wish you luck. Keep up the good work.
I agree. That's going to leak oil in the near future and now will be able to redo in half the time. Good job other than that
The gaskets that come with the FelPro 98000 set are far superior. They are aluminum with bonded rubber. The only problem is that you can only get them as part of that set, so they cost a bit more; however, it is well worth the investment as they will not fail as others do. It's all I use on SBC jobs. The 98000 is for Vortech intakes, but they also make one for the non-vortech intake.
I'm going to have to do this soon I think. I have a GM 3800 Series 2, still using the orange coolant. Most of it is new as I lost a lot when I replaced the 2 plastic coolant elbows and again when I just replaced the water pump. I had to add a lot after replacing that. When I end up having to do the upper and lower intake gaskets I will flush it all out and put the regular green stuff in it.
If it runs the orange stuff from the factory it's probably not a good idea to change to another type. Coolants have different formulas for different engines. Make sure before you change, that green has the proper formulation for your engine.
Perfect timing for this video as I have to do this on my 1988 Chevy Silverado. I’ll be installing a new distributor and coil when I reinstall the intake manifold.
amazing attention to detail. Im a mechanic for a living and would welcome someone like you to work on my own vehicle.....as long as Im not paying hourly. lol
Jimmy I did my upper and lower gasket replacement and power washing the intakes and cleaning the top part of the engine all in 13 hrs here at my apartment 98 Ford E250 van 4.2 liter V6 Essex engine
Looks like you did a good job. My only advice would be careful about using the sanding discs they almost all contain aluminum oxide which can embed and damage engine bearings. Some will also leave the surface too course which can literally scrub off the gasket with thermal expansion over time.
Secondly the only silicone I will use anymore is permatex right stuff 1 minute gasket maker. Trust me I’ve used it thousands of times.
Lastly I’m a little more on the generous with the silicone and make sure to get it in the corners below and on top of the gasket.
Long ago, GM published a bulletin about the discs. The debris (disc and gasket and carbon) get thrown everywhere and can have a negative effect on engine bearing life, and can compromise flatness in some scenarios. The manifold I like to surface with a fine sanding block before getting it clean enough to eat off of. Cleaning the heads is the tedious part...
The grey silicone (Yamabond and friends) is what most manufacturers use now...I use that or what is available. Toyota's black sealant is really nice too.
Chevy's like to wick oil up the intake bolts...best to put a little white Permatex thread sealant on them...
Agreeing with you and adding my 2 cents...
Nothing like those "elephant in the room" repairs that start as a mild concern but you know very well you're going to have to address before it becomes a major problem. Anyone who's been forced to deal with the dreaded o-ring replacement on the oil pump pickup in the early 2000's GM full-size 4WD will know EXACTLY what I'm talking about.
Good job man I'd rather see man take his time rather than have to redo later. About do one myself. Ty
Great Job! C1500 Suburban here!
Nice man!
Good job ! The oil pump drive sometimes rotates after dist. removal . Can move it back with a blade screw driver .
Did my 93, this job is a giant pain getting everything clean and reinstalled correctly
Looks good. I dropped my steering wheel and pulled my dash out to replace a heater coor. That's also a lot of time.
Job well done man don’t worry you did a good job keep on trucking
Thanks! 👍
Your local mechanic is not going to be as detailed and/or as concerned. Good job overall. I’m surprised you didn’t do the valve cover gaskets as you were already in there.
Side note tip, ame intl quick valve change tool.Engine Restore for good compression.
I never imaginedtakingsll that apart.
'm proud of you.
Haha, thanks!
Just for the future, if you drench those cast intakes in LAs totally awesome, scrub it with a toothbrush, and rinse with hot water it will pull most of the oil and grime out of the cast and come out looking almost brand new
if it leaks at the ends dont despair, just spray it with brake cleaner, let it dry and with your finger push more of the grey permatex up into the channel from one side to the other, let it dry on a warm day overnight and see how that works. dont stop till it is done from one side to the other, you will probably have to do the dist job again but it will go quicker the 2nd time around.
Great job... always slow doing something on a vehicle/motor.....still wanted you to do a meet-n-greet. I'm in Memphis and followed you for years now... would love to hangout with you on Broad Street or camping somewhere...thank you for all you do....
I replaced my factory plastic distributer while i was at it - thats another winner
Did that job a few times, you'll be fine. It will leak most likely, after a year or so. Good luck
Just a tip be careful with those scotch brite wheels. I know you said you were, but they can definitely eat away at aluminum fast like you said. They also deposit abrasives, so never use them on head and block mating surfaces where those abrasives can get into the crank case.
Looks like you did a excellent job! Next should be the valve cover gaskets.
Funny how all these videos use Fel Pro gaskets for the intake manifold on these trucks. Before I started I emailed Fel Pro they said do not use our gaskets we don’t make proper gaskets for those years of trucks, then pull out the back rear ports you’ll notice the little pinhole in the Fel Pro gaskets. The OEM gaskets are the correct ones to use for this truck.
Great job explaining the whole job
Did my best, thanks. 👍
One thing I want to make you aware of these engines are pretty much bullet proof they're well built but make sure you change the rod and main bearings the reason is that that's there major fail when they do fail. It's not very common but does happen anytime I buy a used Chevy truck that's the first thing I do not cause it needs it but parts do wear over time and this will keep you from having catastrophic failure and the parts aren't expensive the job is pretty easy to. Also while you're there go ahead and replace the oil pump too there's nothing better than knowing you'll have no major issues that could cause you too spend a lot of money
Before you take anything apart, take out your cell phone and take several pictures. Try to get 2 angles of every disconnect, hose routing, anything that looks "busy". Lots of busy under Jimmy's air filter.
Most of the time it is NOT necessary to label connectors. There is almost always enough difference in them and were they lay that getting them mixed up is not the problem, it's getting the routing right going back together...PICTURES. I'm not telling novices not to label connectors though. If you do, make sure to remove them when you are done so you don't have a gooey mess to clean up 2 weeks later.
Doing this on a TBI motor would be a vacation lol I had to do head gaskets on a 97' Tahoe with a Vortec and just getting to where the intake was removed was irritating. Re-assembly was even worse.
A drill with wire brush works really well but you have to be sure non of the wires get into the engine same with any dirt really lol
I did my first head gasket n intake gasket job on tbi motor a few years ago. Had hard time with getting timing correct even marked it lol easy motor to learn on👍
The timing scared me but it worked out thankfully.
cleaning the manifold (both half's) took all day.
The rtv, i like to cut a v shaped grove in the tip and lay the bead that way - sort of like doing a windshield
Right?? Those gaskets are the worst!!
Great job! Would’ve been a good time to throw an aftermarket Edelbrock on there, though, with a bigger throttlebody for more horsepower!
The way you marked the distributor makes it a no Brainer , good job. I use the toyota rtv , I think it's the best you can buy.1/4 inch bead works perfect.
Great video brother.
You can also do a final wipe with acetone before applying rtv.
Little late now. It's all done
You probably could have used a carbide scraper for the gasket removal. Amazon has quite a few. Nice job!
You are right but it's worth it and it's coming out perfect I'm almost ready to put it back I appreciate your video I've gained a lot of knowledge
Imagine the labor to access the intake manifold. My Taurus was so simple it was an 06. This engineering and planning had no thought of maintenance imo.
Jimmy is a wonderful person. 😊 I wonder if he was named after the GMC Jimmy? 😮
Since it was all apart, did you upgrade to MPFI ? And get rid of those poppit fuel injectors ?
It's not port fuel injection
What a "Drama-Queen"! 🤣
i had to spray guide coat over the alum manifold intake ports and sand it to get the manifold flat so it would seal. my intake gasket sagged down into the engine producing a massive vac leak - my had would stick to the oil filler tube under the vacuum! Idle was at 1500rpm with that leak.
I have seen those sanding disks destroy engine bearings. I haven't used them on internal surfaces for years.
Hi Jimmy
When it comes to a liquid gasket maker like silicone sealant the fine line is have I put enough on or have I put too much on.
The rule of thumb in the olden days before 1996 electronics is one third of the flange width is the maximum width of the sealant to be put down the minimum amount of sealant is one quarter of the width of the flange.
Nower day's it is between 2mm and 6mm of sealant depending on manufacturers specifications like the vehicle manufacturers says 3mm but the manufacturers of the silicone says 5mm so first attempt you go with vehicle spec it starts to leak, then you try the silicone spec it is too much, so 3rd try in between let's try 4mm it dose the trick.
The vehicle manufacturers silicone is of a denser mix than the after market ones, plus the factory gunk always splurges out they are never a clean look so they don't care on how much is put on just is it sealed.
But most of all Jimmy very good, clean work you are showing the not so friendly mechanic's to shame in how to do the job correctly and cleanly.
Thank you for your comment. I agree with you, during my ‘research’ I found many different ways of doing it. Ultimately came down to what I thought was the correct method but of course second guessed myself once it was done. I don’t know why those two areas can’t have a rubberized pre-made gasket that we can set into place though??
Wrong coolant, get you 4 -5 gallons of that green 50/50 mix. I've also done head gaskets on a 305 tbi before (kind of the same as 350 tbi ) fairly easy.
It's really not as hard as it seems but my best advice is do your homework first. Label your connections and you will also find that a lot of the connections are unique to that particular part... You'll see what I mean. Torque specs also with the sequence is very important and also check the fuel rail for leaks. It's not as easy as changing the spark plugs but it's way easier than changing out a head gasket or a cam. Just pay attention to what you're doing and don't be in a hurry and for beginners... Don't be drinking any beers or you won't be able to remember where things went. Also I want to add, before removing the fuel rail and doing any of this work, pull the relay for the fuel pump and then go to start your engine to relieve the fuel pressure so that once you disconnect the fuel rail, fuel doesn't go flying everywhere... It's under pressure and this will get rid of that pressure 👍🗽🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm restoring a 1971 citroen van and need to replace the intake manifold gasket. What material should the intake manifold gasket be made of? I tried some gasket maker materials but they failed.
Frequently never realized Protip - every connector on the harness is unique and will only mate with their counterpart. I'm also aware this is not a 100% universal truth but close enough that it doesn't matter
Nice work. You make me miss my old Chevelle sm block.
Just wait until you find out that it will start leaking again after 1 year. Not a perfect design. Nice work anyway!
Edit: I would be sure to verify ignition timing! I like to run these trucks 1-2° advanced.
Those fel pro gaskets will look just like those original gaskets the next time you go to change them. Because they compress down and get all stiff and brittle over time 👍
Try to do the best clean job you can . I have done many of those intake manifold gaskets and it takes why it takes to do it right . so days is just fine with me . But think about a shop can do it in about 2 hours but it not enough time clean things like they should be . It takes me about 6 hours so just how clean do you think shops do it . absolutely not doing it the right no way . great job you did it right .
I hear the discs are banned under warranty repair as the dust they create has abrasive particles that eat your bearings up.... dealerships are not allowed to use those after diagnosing repeat failed engines and finding particles in the bearings.
Interesting. I did think of that. But what are you gonna do? 🤷♂️ I did my very best trying to keep that stuff out of the engine.
@@1RoadGarage Hopefully someone who works at these dealerships could chime in on how they get around this - from what I have read so far, it's back to razor blades and strong solvents.
Great video. Your neighbours must be able to hear you yelling a block away 😉. I have to turn your videos way down. This looks a lot more involved than the one on my '99 6.0L. My son has a '95 K1500 4x4 with 330,000kms on it, but I'm not sure that we'll tackle this unless needed...😁
did you get any engine lights due to timing being off? was timing set perfectly with your marks?
Curious if you were getting a check engine light from the EGR system before doing this job, and be curious if it has gone away. I expect when I finally do this job on my 95 with 200k+ miles that I will be pulling A LOT more junk out of the EGR passages.
I think you need to double check the timing with a timing light. Unplug the timing control wire and set it to 0⁰ btdc at idle. Then lock the distributor in place.
The stock timing curve is ridiculously conservative. I like to set tbi 350s at 6⁰btdc for a little better power and fuel economy. More than that and the knock sensor will likely hear activity and batch retard the timing.
Spark timing is very important. 1⁰ or 2⁰ is very easy to miss.. even when lining up marks and putting things back how you found them. If your timing is too late, your flame front will be chasing the piston down the hole. If it's too early, the flame will try to jam the piston backwards down the bore before it hits tdc.
Ideal power and efficiency come from peak cylinder pressure at about 12⁰atdc. The flame front needs time to grow and meet the piston face and begin to drive it downwards. You'll see around 25⁰ of spark advance at idle of about 650rpm. The mixture isn't very dense and takes longer to combust than a denser mixture at wide open throttle. While the piston is moving slowly, the spark advance gives the kernel the time it needs to build peak cylinder pressure at 12⁰atdc. To set an engine's ideal base timing, you should tune for peak vacuum and subtract 2⁰.
My supercharged 355 likes 30⁰ of spark advance at idle and n/a 38⁰@wot.. and 28⁰ under wot at 9.5psi. I advance the timing with engine speed and pull timing as load increases (vacuum decreases). There's a nice custom curve ranging from 17⁰ to 50⁰ of spark advance.
Boy your way over the heads of a lot of viewers on here. Why if he put everything back to exactly he marked and that it runs good why would that be wrong? I'm no mechanic for sure but most of the people watching would do exactly what he did.
Dude, Eric, that all sounds great and I wish I knew what you know but I understand about 1% of what you just said. I have in the past checked and slightly adjusted my timing. If I remember correctly there was a brown and tan wire under the glove box area and I had to have the engine fully warmed up. But, you’re right, I should check it again. 👍
@@alanmerritt860 sorry. I go a little overboard sometimes. Spark timing is actually more important than air:fuel ratio when it comes to power and economy.. Although if the engine is pig-rich and puking black smoke, economy will suffer. I like to get every ounce of power out of my engines. Yes, his marks lined up closely. But being just a hair off his original marks could a few degrees. . In either direction. Tbi motors have about 25⁰ of spark advance at idle. The advance increases a bit while driving. If the timing is off, Jimmy could just be wasting gas. Every degree counts. I feel like he backed into a win here. I'm glad that it feels fine and sounds ok.. but it could easily be off by a few degrees. Too much could cause engine damage and too little can cause performance to suffer. It's just something that I always double check when I pull a distributor.
@@1RoadGarageyes. The tan wire with a black stripe is the timing control wire. In the later tbi stuff, it's behind the glove box. In the early stuff, it's under the hood near the firewall behind the distributor. You showed the timing pointer a few times so I know you know where it's at. Timing lights are kind of a thing of the past, but they are an important tool to keep these old trucks on the road. 96+ trucks have a distributor but don't have a timing mark on the front cover. Thanks for keeping that truck alive. She's a beauty.
wow great vid Jimmy, that's what Im talking about
Glad you liked it! 👍