You actually wait until your short block is assembled before you chase the bolt holes on the block? Thats nuts. i would be damned sure to do all of that before i assembled the bottom end and then clean EVERYTHING.
I AGREE 100%, that should have been done before installing even 1 part onto the block, what if a hole was stripped, etc. and the engine is already assembled?
Amazingly knowledgeable engine builders in these comments, who criticize everyone else, but none of whom have their own videos. If they're such experts, I wonder why they're even watching these basic how-to videos?
Because builders are interested in other peoples builds. The same basic principals of of cleanliness, tolerances, ect are universal. When someone posts an instructional video with errors, the greater community feels obliged to comment so people learning don't develop bad habits. Parts Pro is reasonably good channel, A lot of engine building videos out there are just junk !
Chasing the block threads CAREFULLY is critical; a shop did mine during a complete block service, apparently with a power hand drill and some were so loose and torn-up that I had to install inserts and finally used a complete set of ARP studs. Not to mention that the same shop also destroyed both of my rare 327 461X heads while TRYING to install hardened seats. ( Darrell Buell Automotive Eng )
Agree with the taps for the head bolts, I know some say no and to use chasers but them chasers won't remove all the corrosion and rust. Chasers are great for most threads but for these especially if using new arp bolts using the taps are the best option as long as u know your cutting some and will mess it up if ur not careful and pay attention. If there's to much tention then double check to see what's going on before just continuing to crank that tap in there
When prepping the head bolts you commented you were using thread locker on the threads and arp paste on the washers. This is incorrect the white thread locker you are using isn't thread locker it is a sealant paste because the head bolts install into the water jacket of the block, Im sure you are aware of this but someone watching the video and not really knowing what you are doing would use loc tite blue or red on their head bolts and run into all kinds of major problems like pulling the threads out of the block when trying to remove those bolts down the road and possible coolant leaks because thread locker isn't a sealant for coolant
Griffon 327 I need some advise, I’m using these heads I’m pretty sure not the rpm version. In any case I’m using arp studs, I had my engine freshened up and decked at my local machine shop. I used what “experienced” guys recommended which they suggested permatex aviation sealant and I used a fair amount. I chased and cleaned my threads and cleaned studs and all the prep work. I let my sealant cure more than 24 hrs and then installed the heads. Now it took a bit to get other parts to actually run the engine but the head studs leak. My leak is NOT from the surface between HEAD and DECK or from gasket and I don’t have internal leaks into engine ei. Milky oil. The coolant seems to be traveling along the studs from the water jacket thru the nut and out the top of the nut. Any advise?
I'm about to save your time yall. The Rocker Arms, Rocker Bolts, and push rods, ANY BOLT OR OBJECT doesn't need to be installed in the exact same place as long as their equally the same. You can if you want but this is usually only done in mechanic shops where they're there to fix a head gasket for example and their required to replace everything back in the same condition as it was received, but with the repair done. For someone working on their own car it's not required at all. It's mostly just a "return the wear to what it was previously" but I've always said that the car ran the same amount of time, everything is worn equally.
did you check valve seating leak seal before you bolted those heads on? and check the cc for actual cc's? did you port match anything? did you do any porting at all? did you do any extra unshrouding? the rpm heads appear ready to go, however we would like actual data on these outstanding quality heads, we all know heads need a go through especially after shipping. did you change valve springs? if so what are spring type and specs, cam specs, etc. thanks your video is an easy going video of guys putting on parts.
I completely wore out three taps when chasing my head bolt threads. It that normal? The taps were VermontAmerican, which is more of an economy brand. So maybe they thrifted on the alloy or hardening.
@Redline Racer and chasing the threads after the short block was assembled is a no-no in my opinion. i like to watch some videos of the actual machine work being done on heads and blocks. i'm 72 yrs old, and building my 8th drag car, and hopefully my last. Chev Vega, 406 small block.
You can but for $20 from Rockauto.com Enginetech makes a set that work great.They have the sealant applied to the threads.Part number HB142. I have used them many times.
Im by no means an expert mechanic but i saw your comment and figured id help you out the only point of tapping the threads is to clean it out making sure theres no debris or maybe a damaged thread, so basically just use the same size tap as your bolt hole. That way when you are tightening your bolts they go nice and easy and you will have a proper reading on your torque wrench.
Hey parts pro. I agree you should clean the bolt holes before you assemble the short block/bottom end! Alumium heads are a lot lighter than cast iron still becarful! Maniacal s10.
There is no way i would use " Bolt On " heads straight from the box. I would at the very least have them checked by a machine shop and leak check the valves and guides.
why do you have brand new pistons in bad looking cylinders?..I see a black ring around the cylinder that should be clean from honing with a good cross hatch
@@MIKEHOVIND I had to cut and lap all seats and reface all valves that were chinese 21 4N stuff, better buy Brodix heads and use Manley Severe Duty or extreme Duty valves!
Home gamers try this if you forget to chase threads before assembling your short block: use that engine stand [for what it's made for], and turn the side you are working on to face down. Better off with a crick in your neck than metal shavings hiding in you piston bores. Flush holes after thread chasing with a little brake cleaner before righting - use the straw and wrap a shop towel around the opening so you don't get a face full, using short blasts to catch debris. And don't follow his advice of plain "cotton" for final wipedown before putting in gaskets- it's not lint free and if threads come out undetected, the softest/tightest part of your engine is... your bearings, so if there will be a problem from that 99% chance it happens there. If by chance you bought a stand that does not allow block rotation... give up on engine building, as you are not mechanically minded, and the $40 bucks you saved will perhaps cost you a thousand down the road. By the way, there is no such thing as a "bolt on" head - assembled heads should always need a little t.l.c. before putting on. Two things must happen at a minimum: pull valves to check valve seat runout, and verify the intake port is a hair larger than your intake manifold side with everything lined up. Having a wall steals hp from what is otherwise a good investment [and is not friendly for carburated engines]. I have yet to see an intake manifold/head combination that didn't need just a little massaging with a die grinder, so just bet on having to fit those two as part of the build. I like the manifold side between 0.005" and 0.010" smaller than the opening on the heads to give room for settling or minor gasket shift when assembling. For valves, seat runout of less than 0.001" is bang on, and anything over 0.002" is cause to go to a machine shop to get valve seats re-cut if you want maximum life out of the heads before next service. Most machine work will be in the liveable middle, and will do just fine. Runout of over 0.004" is an abomination that will cause poor compression, premature guide wear, and allow reversion problems/odd manifold vacuum behavior... it's an all stop: don't even think of bolting that on. Yeah, it will run, but why did you buy aluminum heads in the first place?
+Marc Beard Thinking the exact same thing I have a socket set made specifically for the top of taps so you can use a 3/8 spinner handle for stuff like that or very least use the tap handle that is in the tap and die kit. using the wrench not only takes 20 times more effort and time it side loads the tap when turned which dig into the threads cause hes cleaning the threads with an actual tap instead of a thread chaser that will not cut only clean.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(
Lots of ugliness in this video ! That 3 step torque process recommended is NG ! The increments are too small, especially with bolts. Don't jerk the torque wrench ! Slow and steady Rechecking after torqued will tell you nothing! Stop at 65 then turn torque wrench to 70 and try again...it will click. The initial friction needs to be overcome which is likely 5 lb/ft before the fastener will turn...even moreso with bolts compared to studs.
Hope you and viewers of this understand that edelbrock is famous for not having specs correct and that they should go to a machine shop before bolting them on out of the box. No, I’m not an expert and know nothing about nothing except for what I’ve seen
I just know you did not take those heads straight out of the box and installed them. How much work did you need to do too them before you where willing too actually use them? We all know all production heads no matter who makes them need work straight from the box. Yeah bolt on head. HaHa thats funny.
i hope no one actually attempts to torque their fasteners like this. the torque click should be one and done, each time you're clicking that thing, you're adding 3-5 in or ft lbs to the fastener torque. completely wrong. its a nice build, i hope its still running good.
If you do not push to hard through the torque click not a problem, i hate internet bullshitters like this. When did you ever ...and i do mean EVER heard that a head damaged of 3 or 4 ft LBS more?! NEVER....stop the bullshit salty experts
I'd have to disagree with you Allen, if the bolts don't turn, and they shouldn't because once he lets off the set torque the break loose torque higher than the torque settings "click" or snap over. once a bolt stops turning it will take much more torque to get it going again, much higher than the snap through. torque is a function of stretch in the bolt and if the bolt is not threading in further he is no longer stretching the bolt. now it may be true that the second and 3rd click are redundant but if he hit it 100 times more he wouldn't be adding 300-500 more ft-lbs. that is why he has to go in steps of 10 or 15, in order to get them moving again.
They have done tests (google it) and it is true to NOT double click as it will add torque. So not completely false. it is more drastic when your at around 20 ft lbs or under (obviously) but at 70 ft lbs it's irrelevant and one could argue a typical torque wrench +- allowed would be greater. I cheat the system daily on airplanes where you have a specific spec on the nut, sometimes bolt, with a min and max in order to fit a cotter pin. If it's not within that spec you are supposed to add or remove "shims" (washers). While when it's close, just keep clicking it'll line up. The difference is we have QA watching to keep us from just manhandling it. So we can all keyboard warrior it up and name call and call bullshit all day, but you may end up looking like an arrogant prick at the end of the day @Michel Linschoten.....
Tapping the bolt holes after you have the short block assembled is a sure sign of a "Shade tree Mechanic" there's no Reputable engine builders that would EVER do that .....You Sir have FAILED !!!! P.S I would be embarrassed to keep this video up.
You actually wait until your short block is assembled before you chase the bolt holes on the block? Thats nuts. i would be damned sure to do all of that before i assembled the bottom end and then clean EVERYTHING.
I agree ! Maniacal s10
I AGREE 100%, that should have been done before installing even 1 part onto the block, what if a hole was stripped, etc. and the engine is already assembled?
bad move for sure
But he is worried about lint
Amazingly knowledgeable engine builders in these comments, who criticize everyone else, but none of whom have their own videos. If they're such experts, I wonder why they're even watching these basic how-to videos?
Because builders are interested in other peoples builds. The same basic principals of of cleanliness, tolerances, ect are universal.
When someone posts an instructional video with errors, the greater community feels obliged to comment so people learning don't develop bad habits.
Parts Pro is reasonably good channel, A lot of engine building videos out there are just junk !
You are a idiot and dont know what your talking about this guy is a fool and knows enough to get him in trouble.
Chasing the block threads CAREFULLY is critical; a shop did mine during a complete block service, apparently with a power hand drill and some were so loose and torn-up that I had to install inserts and finally used a complete set of ARP studs.
Not to mention that the same shop also destroyed both of my rare 327 461X heads while TRYING to install hardened seats.
( Darrell Buell Automotive Eng )
Wondering why he used a tap instead of a thread chaser? Taps cut. Thread chasers clean and true.
Here's a tip !
Don't chase threads with a tap. They make "thread chasers" for that, relatively cheap too.
Yes yes yes
Use a thread chaser, not a tap. Taps can remove material. Also, what tap size is it, a ground high or ground low? Most taps are ground high 3.
Agree with the taps for the head bolts, I know some say no and to use chasers but them chasers won't remove all the corrosion and rust. Chasers are great for most threads but for these especially if using new arp bolts using the taps are the best option as long as u know your cutting some and will mess it up if ur not careful and pay attention. If there's to much tention then double check to see what's going on before just continuing to crank that tap in there
I am putting on a set of Dart iron heads. Without using the gasket should the head sit flat on the deck? mine does not...
When prepping the head bolts you commented you were using thread locker on the threads and arp paste on the washers. This is incorrect the white thread locker you are using isn't thread locker it is a sealant paste because the head bolts install into the water jacket of the block, Im sure you are aware of this but someone watching the video and not really knowing what you are doing would use loc tite blue or red on their head bolts and run into all kinds of major problems like pulling the threads out of the block when trying to remove those bolts down the road and possible coolant leaks because thread locker isn't a sealant for coolant
Griffon 327 I need some advise, I’m using these heads I’m pretty sure not the rpm version. In any case I’m using arp studs, I had my engine freshened up and decked at my local machine shop. I used what “experienced” guys recommended which they suggested permatex aviation sealant and I used a fair amount. I chased and cleaned my threads and cleaned studs and all the prep work. I let my sealant cure more than 24 hrs and then installed the heads. Now it took a bit to get other parts to actually run the engine but the head studs leak. My leak is NOT from the surface between HEAD and DECK or from gasket and I don’t have internal leaks into engine ei. Milky oil. The coolant seems to be traveling along the studs from the water jacket thru the nut and out the top of the nut. Any advise?
If you can take them out one at a time and put teflon paste sealer on them. Studs...Good luck. Drain the block first.
I'm about to save your time yall.
The Rocker Arms, Rocker Bolts, and push rods, ANY BOLT OR OBJECT doesn't need to be installed in the exact same place as long as their equally the same. You can if you want but this is usually only done in mechanic shops where they're there to fix a head gasket for example and their required to replace everything back in the same condition as it was received, but with the repair done.
For someone working on their own car it's not required at all. It's mostly just a "return the wear to what it was previously" but I've always said that the car ran the same amount of time, everything is worn equally.
YEP, ALL BLOCK PREP SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE FINAL WASH................. ROOKIE
Sorry what side always goes up for the gasket? I couldn't hear, or what's the strap side??
I use Toyota FIPG sealant on the threads of the head bolts/studs. Never had any coolant leaks.
did you check valve seating leak seal before you bolted those heads on? and check the cc for actual cc's? did you port match anything? did you do any porting at all? did you do any extra unshrouding? the rpm heads appear ready to go, however we would like actual data on these outstanding quality heads, we all know heads need a go through especially after shipping. did you change valve springs? if so what are spring type and specs, cam specs, etc. thanks your video is an easy going video of guys putting on parts.
These heads are CNC'd I would not touch the ports at all ...Check for valve sealing yes
Edelbrock heads and their China valves need extensive valve jobs they leak and burn valve if not corrected
I wanted to know how to build a set of Heads, parts list, what to check for. Take it to a machinist for valve seats?
That's what I'm doing...your having your original ones redone???
So you waited to chase the head bolt holes threads after you've built the bottom end and you just cleaned the gasket/head sealing surface, wow
I agree should be done before engine is assembled armature build bad info.would not recommend following this video!
Hello !!?? u didn't say which bolts go where???
Wait so degree angles isn’t really necessary????
what do you mean by the strap side in an indication of the right side up.when installing the head gasket ?
striped side up
NEVER retap head screw holes. Use a chaser or youll regret it
I think they know what they are doing
Apparently not if they're doing the block prep on the threads after they already spent all the time assembling the engine@@crisperez592
Do screw in rocker studs need thread sealant? I didn't think so but someone told me you do need to use sealant.?
Yes, some do penetrate the head water jacket.
we're a cylinder head and block factory in China 🙂
I completely wore out three taps when chasing my head bolt threads. It that normal? The taps were VermontAmerican, which is more of an economy brand. So maybe they thrifted on the alloy or hardening.
@Redline Racer so do I, and so do most reputable machine shops. I cringed when I saw him using a cutting tap.
@Redline Racer and chasing the threads after the short block was assembled is a no-no in my opinion. i like to watch some videos of the actual machine work being done on heads and blocks. i'm 72 yrs old, and building my 8th drag car, and hopefully my last. Chev Vega, 406 small block.
can I reuse my headbolts on my 305?
You can but for $20 from Rockauto.com Enginetech makes a set that work great.They have the sealant applied to the threads.Part number HB142. I have used them many times.
You like to live dangerously huh
Are you actually using a thread chaser to clean them out, or are u re taping the threads?
+Parts Pro Centers thanks. Thats what I figured. Some folks dont realize how important a step that is, to properly torque the bolts. Great video
+ironhorse127 looks like a tap to me. Sketchy
It’s possible to dull a tap with a buffer wheel and “chase” the threads.
what size tap are you using tho?
Im by no means an expert mechanic but i saw your comment and figured id help you out the only point of tapping the threads is to clean it out making sure theres no debris or maybe a damaged thread, so basically just use the same size tap as your bolt hole. That way when you are tightening your bolts they go nice and easy and you will have a proper reading on your torque wrench.
Shit I went to 70Ft pounds on my edelbrock heads since the ARP head bolt specifications mentioned 70lbs of torque
Hey parts pro.
I agree you should clean the bolt holes before you assemble the short block/bottom end! Alumium heads are a lot lighter than cast iron still becarful! Maniacal s10.
Could l use on my small engine 283 chevy the cylinder head of 305?
Toss em both in scrap heap, dont build anything less than 383. Dont waist your time and money.
you should have done that already before you started reassembling the engine
The dude that honed the block should have done it for the torque plate. Unless he skipped the torque plate part.
There is no way i would use " Bolt On " heads straight from the box. I would at the very least have them checked by a machine shop and leak check the valves and guides.
I agree, but at the same time if you buy a crate motor... guess what, straight out of the box.
@port nut could void the warranty :).
why do you have brand new pistons in bad looking cylinders?..I see a black ring around the cylinder that should be clean from honing with a good cross hatch
Did you have to hone (Sand it done flat) the deck?
where are the push rods?
They hadn't got that far.
No tap handle?
Thats not the way to run an tap. You should have used oil and ran it back and forth. Rookie.
Out of box performance? I wonder how good the machine work is? Valve work?
my thoughts exactly , mass produced heads always need to be sent to an engine shop
@@MIKEHOVIND I had to cut and lap all seats and reface all valves that were chinese 21 4N stuff, better buy Brodix heads and use Manley Severe Duty or extreme Duty valves!
Wish I could afford some aluminum heads for my build.
Sometimes it's more cost effective to buy a new set of aluminum heads, than to spend big bucks rebuilding worn out iron heads.
350 on ebay
good basic head instructions
Home gamers try this if you forget to chase threads before assembling your short block: use that engine stand [for what it's made for], and turn the side you are working on to face down. Better off with a crick in your neck than metal shavings hiding in you piston bores. Flush holes after thread chasing with a little brake cleaner before righting - use the straw and wrap a shop towel around the opening so you don't get a face full, using short blasts to catch debris. And don't follow his advice of plain "cotton" for final wipedown before putting in gaskets- it's not lint free and if threads come out undetected, the softest/tightest part of your engine is... your bearings, so if there will be a problem from that 99% chance it happens there.
If by chance you bought a stand that does not allow block rotation... give up on engine building, as you are not mechanically minded, and the $40 bucks you saved will perhaps cost you a thousand down the road. By the way, there is no such thing as a "bolt on" head - assembled heads should always need a little t.l.c. before putting on. Two things must happen at a minimum: pull valves to check valve seat runout, and verify the intake port is a hair larger than your intake manifold side with everything lined up. Having a wall steals hp from what is otherwise a good investment [and is not friendly for carburated engines]. I have yet to see an intake manifold/head combination that didn't need just a little massaging with a die grinder, so just bet on having to fit those two as part of the build. I like the manifold side between 0.005" and 0.010" smaller than the opening on the heads to give room for settling or minor gasket shift when assembling. For valves, seat runout of less than 0.001" is bang on, and anything over 0.002" is cause to go to a machine shop to get valve seats re-cut if you want maximum life out of the heads before next service. Most machine work will be in the liveable middle, and will do just fine. Runout of over 0.004" is an abomination that will cause poor compression, premature guide wear, and allow reversion problems/odd manifold vacuum behavior... it's an all stop: don't even think of bolting that on. Yeah, it will run, but why did you buy aluminum heads in the first place?
I've never seen threads that screwed up. You sure thats not a metric tap ? 🤣🤣🤣
Um no ARP Head studs for all that High Dollar Parts.....
why the wrench on the tap?
+Marc Beard Thinking the exact same thing I have a socket set made specifically for the top of taps so you can use a 3/8 spinner handle for stuff like that or very least use the tap handle that is in the tap and die kit. using the wrench not only takes 20 times more effort and time it side loads the tap when turned which dig into the threads cause hes cleaning the threads with an actual tap instead of a thread chaser that will not cut only clean.
+Griffon 327 12p and spline sockets work good with taps also.
Yeah my thoughts exactly... Side load was my firth thought then I said they know better. I know they have tools.
holy hell man buy yourself a tap handle and learn how to use a torque wrench.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by
reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated
central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down
all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From
2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as
exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox
oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no
investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even
created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(
Lots of ugliness in this video !
That 3 step torque process recommended is NG ! The increments are too small, especially with bolts.
Don't jerk the torque wrench !
Slow and steady
Rechecking after torqued will tell you nothing! Stop at 65 then turn torque wrench to 70 and try again...it will click. The initial friction needs to be overcome which is likely 5 lb/ft before the fastener will turn...even moreso with bolts compared to studs.
So do I need to clean it?? Lol
Hope you and viewers of this understand that edelbrock is famous for not having specs correct and that they should go to a machine shop before bolting them on out of the box. No, I’m not an expert and know nothing about nothing except for what I’ve seen
I just know you did not take those heads straight out of the box and installed them. How much work did you need to do too them before you where willing too actually use them?
We all know all production heads no matter who makes them need work straight from the box.
Yeah bolt on head. HaHa thats funny.
I did and zero issue however, I wish I had checked the valves for sealing
@@bilbobaggins4710 they will burn out because they dont seal
why in hell is almost everybody posting videos playing a very annoying music track in the background?
Its because they know about engines and stuff and they know nothing about music
Here comes the expert engine builders in the comments 321...
This is making several mistakes
i hope no one actually attempts to torque their fasteners like this. the torque click should be one and done, each time you're clicking that thing, you're adding 3-5 in or ft lbs to the fastener torque. completely wrong. its a nice build, i hope its still running good.
If you do not push to hard through the torque click not a problem, i hate internet bullshitters like this. When did you ever ...and i do mean EVER heard that a head damaged of 3 or 4 ft LBS more?! NEVER....stop the bullshit salty experts
I'd have to disagree with you Allen, if the bolts don't turn, and they shouldn't because once he lets off the set torque the break loose torque higher than the torque settings "click" or snap over. once a bolt stops turning it will take much more torque to get it going again, much higher than the snap through. torque is a function of stretch in the bolt and if the bolt is not threading in further he is no longer stretching the bolt. now it may be true that the second and 3rd click are redundant but if he hit it 100 times more he wouldn't be adding 300-500 more ft-lbs. that is why he has to go in steps of 10 or 15, in order to get them moving again.
completely false
They have done tests (google it) and it is true to NOT double click as it will add torque. So not completely false. it is more drastic when your at around 20 ft lbs or under (obviously) but at 70 ft lbs it's irrelevant and one could argue a typical torque wrench +- allowed would be greater. I cheat the system daily on airplanes where you have a specific spec on the nut, sometimes bolt, with a min and max in order to fit a cotter pin. If it's not within that spec you are supposed to add or remove "shims" (washers). While when it's close, just keep clicking it'll line up. The difference is we have QA watching to keep us from just manhandling it.
So we can all keyboard warrior it up and name call and call bullshit all day, but you may end up looking like an arrogant prick at the end of the day @Michel Linschoten.....
@@MichelLinschoten Eric Weingartner and David Wizard would never work so crappy like this noob here
Oh look my long lost cousin
I find it funny how you guys cry about assembly lube and Mercedes, BMW and myself use regular everyday engine oil.
i find it it amazing that you would make such idiotic statement.ever heard of zinc.
@118249652784686822180 Yes it fixes another made up problem they created to get stupid people to buy something they don’t need.
BMW and Mercedes are all plastic. Everything is different with those
they dont have OHV engines
@@thomashayes7423 They don’t have plastic internal engine parts either
Tapping the bolt holes after you have the short block assembled is a sure sign of a "Shade tree Mechanic" there's no Reputable engine builders that would EVER do that .....You Sir have FAILED !!!!
P.S I would be embarrassed to keep this video up.
This guy can't build an engine. He doesn't even know how to use a tap.
So much wrong with this video it should be removed!!
Here are my L98 350 TPI head gaskets being changed for interest: th-cam.com/video/mD_CBepMmMM/w-d-xo.html