Top tip, pop some weight in the drawer box during final height adjustment. Square frames can be quite brutal and unforgiving, so the internal bevel is a really nice touch! Beautiful work.
HI Rob, Look more for a Georgian bar tape, Try Marches Ironmingery, 1mm thick georgian bar tape. You can use wider and slice the roll down before peeling off (i was doing this in the video) I cant add a link as a comment but wil update the description with a similar product.
Thanks for the super detailed video - it has been imensely helpful! How much space do you leave on each side of the drawer front, i.e. the thickness od your shim? Is it 1mm, 2mm?
yesh its a nice detail, Adds a lot of work in making the face frames, getting sharp clean sanded and painted bevels compared to square, but it looks detailed without being fussy.
Cheers Jason, it's a waterborne enamel from Sherwin Williams, slightly thicker paint than the standard one, holds up better with the AA airless and seems to brush up fairly well too on the final coat
@@BradshawJoinery nice I normally use conversion varnish with my AAA but I am tempted to try the waterborne enamel. Thanks. Great job and great video. Absolutely the best craftsman I have seen. And I live around lots of Amish.
It’s well smart! Must be a PIA but ! ( still worth it) They better appreciate it 😂 Did you whiz round with trimmer, then clean up corners with a chisel? Or do it like a beaded face frame?
Thanks mate, just to be awkward, neither 🤣🤣 I scribed the bevel on the tenoner 👍 seemed to give the best and most professional result from trying all three.
@@BradshawJoinery wow, I didn’t think that would work with that little lip, bit like a little skirting board scribe ( wouldn’t have on my crappy set up 😂 would have had a ‘raggady’ shoulder line for sure) We’ll done Ollie 🙏
@@BradshawJoinery actually I’m just about to order a tennoning disk from UK which will fit my old delta, and some scribing cutters 👍🏻. It’s shit in oz, or I’m just not ‘hooked up’ well enough 👍🏻 Guys at whitehill seem friendly and helpful.
Thank you so much for the video, amazing work! Would love to see a trouble shooting video and how you work through some of the common problems when installing drawers.
I’ve used those runners for a while but I’ve only now seen their full functionality! They are pricey but they do work well. Cool videos thanks for taking the time to make them
Hi, I see it was mentioned below. Would love a tutorial on your cabinet. Did you build a carcass and add a face frame. I hope to do a similar unit like you did for the end grain butcher block. Love your work
Hi Mate I know this is an old video but just wondering if you’ve used the push to open versions of these runners? If so are they fairly straightforward? Been asked to do a job with one not even sure what bits I need ha ha!
we don't notch the front of drawers-just the back. We then put those orange fittings flat on the base/bottom and screw into the front part of the drawer. (not drawer front) We compensate by altering drawer dimensions to suit the runners of course. I just think it is stronger that way, just in case the green, in your case, drawer front moves, the fittings are always nice and solid, or even if you have to remove for touch up after cooking spillages....And you save a bit of time too. Just an alternative choice for anyone reading this. Really like your tip about Georgian tape. Cheers.
@@BradshawJoinery I have to be honest against my interest, those cabinets are so beautiful you should put together a paid course on how to design, build and paint them. I would buy it in a heartbeat. 👍
On the underside of the drawer, where the clips are mounted, was is the depth left from the underside of the panel to the total underside of the drawer. Really hard to explain on text
Erm a little bit there is a lot of detail in this particular project very much away from standard. Such as the oak pull outs by the Aga/but here block, designing, perfecting then building takes a long time and there are many components in this one that have undergone a similar process. I also do everything, design, organise make finish install alone so it's a slow process. The butcher's block even too a lot longer than you would expect. Curved cabinet... Easy 7 days work for one little cupboard. The two oak islands are english oak and slower to work with and filter the good parts for use etc... There is 43 handmade large drawers with 10x cutlery inserts, wall cabinets with special dowel detail that again needs designing, executing and is slower to paint etc. The bevel is also new and to customers spec, so again another challenge to produce professionally, not just router it on afterwards. It's also an expensive kitchen, I think the price is justified when I take you round the kitchen and point out the shear effort time and thought that has gone into it! There will be such a video soon!
The front height adjuster at 9:18 we pre set halfway prior to installing drawer fronts. This gives you up and down adjustment once the front is fitted. If they are in the lowest setting prior to fitting the drawer front you can only adjust the drawer front upwards.
Yeah thats an option! Generally on small pieces of 2mm tape, the fronts drop a little so require a couple of clicks to lift them back anyway, but good shout, would be prefect if using proper double sided tape as there is no movement in that.
@@BradshawJoinery You make a good point most of the time drawer front adjustment is up rather than down. Have you used those blum drawer front connectors before? 295.1000 is the code I think
No I haven't but what s great idea. The only thing I don't like is you mark the holes to attach from the front to the drawer then drill through, potentially getting breakout?
No I haven't but what s great idea. The only thing I don't like is you mark the holes to attach from the front to the drawer then drill through, potentially getting breakout?
@@BradshawJoinery Yep good point then you'd need to get a backer board or something to try and mitigate the blow out and it's just another step isn't it
Top tip, pop some weight in the drawer box during final height adjustment. Square frames can be quite brutal and unforgiving, so the internal bevel is a really nice touch! Beautiful work.
Pinned, Yes good shout, i normally bias slightly high but that's a good one i haven't mentioned! The bevel works really well.
About 40-60kgs?
Love your vids - great workmanship, keep them coming. Do you use any particular brand of glazing bar tape ? do you have a link please....
HI Rob, Look more for a Georgian bar tape, Try Marches Ironmingery, 1mm thick georgian bar tape. You can use wider and slice the roll down before peeling off (i was doing this in the video) I cant add a link as a comment but wil update the description with a similar product.
This is a Blum tutorial from an end user. Excellent explanation and demonstration. Tony
Cheers Tony, They are the best IMO.
Great video. Is there any way to use 18mm draw sides with these sliders. My stock is all this thickness.
Yeah, Just slim the side down that is below the bottom before glueing up to make it 15mm
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks.
Thanks for the super detailed video - it has been imensely helpful! How much space do you leave on each side of the drawer front, i.e. the thickness od your shim? Is it 1mm, 2mm?
Fantastic detail to work , cracking job as always , looking forward to seeing your next video 👍
Cheers Lee! :)
I like the detail of how the drawer front sits just inside the face frame in line with the bevel and creates that shadow line. Proper high end finish.
yesh its a nice detail, Adds a lot of work in making the face frames, getting sharp clean sanded and painted bevels compared to square, but it looks detailed without being fussy.
Brilliant thanks for the video, but where did you get the drilling template? Was it direct from Blum?
You are the Rolls Royce of wood working.
Haha! Thanks John, I've still plenty to learn and master! 😂👍
@@BradshawJoinery Find that hard to believe with the high standard of work I’ve seen on your videos.
Enjoyed watching a professional at work. Once you've mastered these runners there's no excuse for badly fitted drawer boxes and drawer fronts. Tony
Superb
Thankyou Mike👍👍
👍🫡
Why do you use movento over tandems?
Premium range, more adjustment, bigger capacity,
I agree with John. Beautiful as always. What is the finish on the cabinets
Cheers Jason, it's a waterborne enamel from Sherwin Williams, slightly thicker paint than the standard one, holds up better with the AA airless and seems to brush up fairly well too on the final coat
@@BradshawJoinery nice I normally use conversion varnish with my AAA but I am tempted to try the waterborne enamel. Thanks. Great job and great video. Absolutely the best craftsman I have seen. And I live around lots of Amish.
Stunning work, love the bevelled faceframe and inset drawers/doors 👌
Thankyou, yeah its a lovely detaiil, a bit more work than square, but worth it!
It’s well smart! Must be a PIA but ! ( still worth it)
They better appreciate it 😂
Did you whiz round with trimmer, then clean up corners with a chisel? Or do it like a beaded face frame?
Thanks mate, just to be awkward, neither 🤣🤣
I scribed the bevel on the tenoner 👍 seemed to give the best and most professional result from trying all three.
@@BradshawJoinery wow, I didn’t think that would work with that little lip, bit like a little skirting board scribe ( wouldn’t have on my crappy set up 😂 would have had a ‘raggady’ shoulder line for sure)
We’ll done Ollie 🙏
@@BradshawJoinery actually I’m just about to order a tennoning disk from UK which will fit my old delta, and some scribing cutters 👍🏻. It’s shit in oz, or I’m just not ‘hooked up’ well enough 👍🏻
Guys at whitehill seem friendly and helpful.
Good break down of using Baum Fittings. Thanks. 🇦🇺👴🏻
Cheers Mark. Did you mean Blum or is Blum called Baum in Aus? Curious!
Amazing work. What gap did you have to leave between the drawer sides and the cabinet walls for the runners?
Thank you so much for the video, amazing work! Would love to see a trouble shooting video and how you work through some of the common problems when installing drawers.
No nipping round to Mrs Jones necessary 🤦🏻
Haha!!! Brilliant
That is a very pleasing shade of green. Thanks for sharing. Charles
Thankyou Charles! Yeah lovely colour, Sage Green in Matt
I’ve used those runners for a while but I’ve only now seen their full functionality! They are pricey but they do work well. Cool videos thanks for taking the time to make them
Cheers David, they are pretty darn good, but you do have to work with the materials, they wont eradicated out of square boxes or frames!
Outstanding, professional work.
Thankyou John
The slides don't seem to be attached at the back of the cabinet. Right? (It seems unnecessary when the sides of the runners are so securely attached.)
Correct, they are side fix in this case. bottom fix is available too
Hi, I see it was mentioned below. Would love a tutorial on your cabinet. Did you build a carcass and add a face frame. I hope to do a similar unit like you did for the end grain butcher block. Love your work
Yes I did, then join with screws and dominoes
Brilliant video
Hi Mate I know this is an old video but just wondering if you’ve used the push to open versions of these runners?
If so are they fairly straightforward?
Been asked to do a job with one not even sure what bits I need ha ha!
Hi Tony i have. Push to open are ok but can be more problematic. Speak to LDL components and get a trade account setup. They are very helpful.
Clear and concise
Looking sharp .
Thanks Nicholas
we don't notch the front of drawers-just the back. We then put those orange fittings flat on the base/bottom and screw into the front part of the drawer. (not drawer front) We compensate by altering drawer dimensions to suit the runners of course. I just think it is stronger that way, just in case the green, in your case, drawer front moves, the fittings are always nice and solid, or even if you have to remove for touch up after cooking spillages....And you save a bit of time too. Just an alternative choice for anyone reading this. Really like your tip about Georgian tape. Cheers.
Yeah thats an option! I always tend to be cramming for space so the extra 15mm is worth the effort, but yeah it deffo works both ways! Cheers mate! :)
Beautiful work man
Good to see. Thanks.
Cheers Norman
Thank you!
Great attention to detail Ollie
Cheers again Paul :)
Beautiful work! You have certainly inspired me to up my diy joinery work sir. Can I ask where did you get the brass handles from?
Thanks Peter, Handles from Armac Martin, burnished Brass
Lovely job
awesome videos, guys. i really like watching a craftsman at his work. no annoying music to ruin your outstanding videos. keep up the great tutorials.
Cheers For that buddy
Those cabinets are incredible!
Do you mind sharing tips on their construction with the community? 😅
I have a video coming shortly detailing the build process of a curved cabinet! but i havent done anything on the normal ones yet.
@@BradshawJoinery I have to be honest against my interest, those cabinets are so beautiful you should put together a paid course on how to design, build and paint them.
I would buy it in a heartbeat. 👍
6:58 DOG!
Haha Yes, my dog has a second home at my customers during the day!
On the underside of the drawer, where the clips are mounted, was is the depth left from the underside of the panel to the total underside of the drawer. Really hard to explain on text
HI Harry it can be upto 18mm i think, but be careful with wider sides, id stick to 15mm from under base to bottom of side
@@BradshawJoinery big big help mate, also while I’ve got you, what is deducted in width for drawer box
Work to 21mm to inside of drawer.
So 15mm sides is 6mm deduction each side (12mm overall)
@@BradshawJoinery massive help mate thank you
Roughly how long does it take you to make a kitchen and fit it?
Haha dont askl!!! Ive been working on this one probably 6-7 months
@@BradshawJoinery Oh no. I assume construction delays at their end. Pure workshop time I assume would be much less. Lovely kitchen, good work 👍
Erm a little bit there is a lot of detail in this particular project very much away from standard. Such as the oak pull outs by the Aga/but here block, designing, perfecting then building takes a long time and there are many components in this one that have undergone a similar process. I also do everything, design, organise make finish install alone so it's a slow process. The butcher's block even too a lot longer than you would expect. Curved cabinet... Easy 7 days work for one little cupboard. The two oak islands are english oak and slower to work with and filter the good parts for use etc... There is 43 handmade large drawers with 10x cutlery inserts, wall cabinets with special dowel detail that again needs designing, executing and is slower to paint etc. The bevel is also new and to customers spec, so again another challenge to produce professionally, not just router it on afterwards. It's also an expensive kitchen, I think the price is justified when I take you round the kitchen and point out the shear effort time and thought that has gone into it! There will be such a video soon!
@@BradshawJoinery I obviously didn't realise you did all the design etc and quite the level of detail that the owner had specified. Lovely kitchen. 👍
The front height adjuster at 9:18 we pre set halfway prior to installing drawer fronts. This gives you up and down adjustment once the front is fitted. If they are in the lowest setting prior to fitting the drawer front you can only adjust the drawer front upwards.
Yeah thats an option! Generally on small pieces of 2mm tape, the fronts drop a little so require a couple of clicks to lift them back anyway, but good shout, would be prefect if using proper double sided tape as there is no movement in that.
@@BradshawJoinery You make a good point most of the time drawer front adjustment is up rather than down. Have you used those blum drawer front connectors before? 295.1000 is the code I think
No I haven't but what s great idea. The only thing I don't like is you mark the holes to attach from the front to the drawer then drill through, potentially getting breakout?
No I haven't but what s great idea. The only thing I don't like is you mark the holes to attach from the front to the drawer then drill through, potentially getting breakout?
@@BradshawJoinery Yep good point then you'd need to get a backer board or something to try and mitigate the blow out and it's just another step isn't it
Wonderful.
Cheers Bob :)
First!
Yes First indeed!!