2018 VW GTI SE Ep.392: Replacing Your Rear Wheel Bearing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Moog bearing under $100: amzn.to/3ARbw7b
The bolt I showed was wrong, so don't go look for the bolt I used.
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That is the wrong bolt m8 - the bolt you're using is a WHT005437 / WHT005437A, which is for front wheel bearings (or rear bearing on AWD, ie golf R).
You need WHT007150 (supersedes WHT000229A). This looks the same as the bolt you took out which has a larger head surface that clamps the bearing more evenly.
Torque spec for the correct bolt is 200nm + 90deg (for mk7 golfs, mk5/6 the same bolt is 200nm + 180deg....which is much harder to remove!)
oh wow the MK6 gets even tighter?
@@LastHumansGarage Yep, a lot tighter - i had to use heat to remove one on a Touran (based on mk6 golf)...pipe on a 3 foot breaker and i was jumping up and down on it and nothing lol
@@RobinRyden70Nm + 90deg is for the ribbed version of the bolt which VW haven't sold for at least 10 years now and has superseded with the non ribbed version.
If the bolt is smooth on the underside of the head then its 200nm + 180deg.....and yes it does seem too much and is difficult to do without a very long breaker bar - but it is the spec in the workshop manual.
Just FYI, I use a handheld infrared thermometer which I use to check wheel temps, helps me diagnose bearing failure.
Great tip!
3 free tips:
1) to break seal use breaker instead of ratchet
2) suspend brake caliper
3) You could have put 2 bolts in and key to block the bearing instead of re-mount brake disc and caliper again
I wouldn't trust a hydraulic jack, however thats just me I suppose.
Everytime I think about doing wheel bearings or talk to someone about doing it, I think of back in the day when you had to pack the bearings with grease yourself. I think some RWD cars still do this but it's been awhile.
i did that for years.
Tempted to do the other side so they are both fresh. but mostly, a waste of money since I'm not hearing noise. but that other side also seemed slightly slow to spin
At this mileage it has almost certainly failed due to a pot hole hit at some point so no point doing the other side until you start to hear noise.
Thank God since my wheels take all the force when I drive on BEAUTIFUL Baltimore roads, 75% potholes & 25% road. Now my wheels are square and I drive like I'm in a Flintstones car.
Dude, so today I did both rear wheel bearings, new powerstop rotors and brake pads.... and the sound is still there. Only thing left is tires and/or a possibly bent wheel. Drove me nuts! But i'm glad to have that maintenance done. Again thanks big time for the videos, they helped me get the job done - BTW those caliper carrier bolts f****n sucked
damn man.. what else could it be.... move front tires to rear
Great video man - I feel more confident doing this job now for my rears. Glad you sorted it out 👍
Thanks 👍
Glad to hear that the noise is gone! That makes it all worth it. It was a little funny to watch you trying to hold the rotor to crack loose the bolt :-) My next bearing job will be so much sweeter now. Thanks bro.
dude.. im still confused on how the hub wouldnt spin with the rotor off.. but it would spin when i installed the rotor.. im blanking out
@@LastHumansGarage The rotor off or on makes no difference.. With the bolt you fixate the center part of the bearing to the car, the outer part can spin because the bearing is in between the 2... :-)
@@LastHumansGarage Bro... forgot to ask, will you also replace the other side, since you have the parts already in stock?
@@LastHumansGarage I just realized that the original hub-plate on my GTI has this trench-like slot, running all around at the location of the holes. I suspect that VW uses this design, to be able to get the (WD40) rust dissolver all around the plate, so you can remove the brake rotor from the hub-plate more easy (in case it had rusted on, like was the case with my rears). I can't tell from the video if your original hub-plate also has this trench. The Moog for sure doesn't have it.
When I went to remove my axle bolt it completely sheared the 1/2 to 3/8 adapter I needed to use for my m18 socket. Harbor freight special baby
damn, thats why its cheap. i have a few harbor freight pieces
done twice, cheater bar on top of the breaker bar did the trick for me, just finished doing both rear hubs, what drove me nuts was the actual spec for torque that SOB lol, lot of info on the internet with different numbers. BTW 2017 Jetta SE, about 108K miles
No axle stands, scary
I'm sure you will recover from the horror.
You got it !!
ya baby!!
u don't need brake to release that bolt, normaly if the bolt is turning it will became loose while spinning ex on reverse and tight on forward.
24mm is the same size for crank pulley and I know you replaced your pulley already, at least I thought you did. Nice vid bro!! I do the same thing with my tools all the time too, always second guessing if I have specialty tools or something I made up to use before lol.
Thanks for the info
i love the SNME banner on roof :D
thanks, i loved SNME
Sounds good. Good job, Mark. That’s should do it.
sounding great
Nice hair cut Mark, looks good.
Thank you kindly
Great job!!!
Thank you Manimal!
Hey Mark, it looks like the factory triple square bolt had some blue Loctite on the first 20 threads or so, I didn’t see you put any blue Loctite on your new one but it may not be a bad idea.
The new bolts had locktitevon them too, red
Nice! Btw a new Z🤟🤟🤟
I hope Moog bearings hold up, I had bad luck with them at least on Japanese cars, heck it might be an SKF anyway...
uh oh!! j/k..
Nice job.
thanks Geo
You've lost your shade tree DIY cred with me by not using a proper jack stand. Floor jack hydraulic seals and lines do fail on occasion, especially when you're under the car.
so sad man. i hope you can recover.
You forgot the tread lock
"Bearing Brake-In"? 🤣
36,000 miles is not even old and why are you having to change out a wheel bearing at 36,000 miles? Should have bought a honda or Toyota
On good pothole can ruin a bearing. Happened to me with my wifes 15 GTI.