Two things: Never knew about the access port for the carrier bolt. Thank you - for saving me from the wobble - extension - angle joint rodeo. As everyone else said - get a new TTY bolt - less than $5. most kits come with it and a new cap anyway.
The rationale for a TTY bolt for a wheel bearing doesn't make sense. Like the bearings will reach hundreds of degrees like a cylinder head and the bolt needs to stretch? This customer's Jetta with 40k miles had both rear bearings fail! Too much tension with the TTY bolts?
VW hub bolt/nut torque specs may seem insanely high, but when compared to domestic manufacturers, which fail at an alarming rate in my area, I replace VW wheel bearings mainly for ABS codes and rarely growling or loose conditions. Nonetheless, great video and very informative for DIYers.
The Wheel bearing bolt is a Torque-To-Yield Bolt. It is a one time use bolt, which needs to be replaced. Reusing a bolt will result in the wrong preload of the bearing.
If it's that important, it's interesting how none of the replacement hub/bearings come with a new TTY bolt. Also, I don't know why they made it a TTY bolt? Both rear bearings failed in around 40k miles! Reuse the bolt with lock tight on the threads. Customer has been doing fine with the replacement bearings.
Just did mine. Start with 180nm then tightening a further 90. Bearing would not move. I loosened it off retorque then just added little bits so it could still turn. Ive seen other vids where they havnt had tbis issue. Ill recheck the bolt in a few weeks
The problem you encountered with the 90 degree turn that didn't work is that the bearing bolt is a TTY (Torque Till Yield) or stretch bolt. Weird design! They say you need to replace this bolt when replacing the hub bearing. But if the bolt is that critical, why wasn't it included with the new hub? Also, the hub I replaced in the VW has both rear bearings wear out in around 40k miles. I believe this TTY bearing bolt design is flawed resulting in premature rear bearing failures. So I did what you did but added lock tight to the threads.
Yeah red locktite should not require heat, it just needs more force than the blue stuff..... but I will admit the red stuff can be a b!tch and heat will make things much easier. Blue and red locktite both create a temporary bond, the red being a lot stronger but not permanent. Now green locktite is what I class as permanent and certainly does require heat to break the bond.
Please correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like the old bolt went back in on that main bearing. I see you mention the job is for a customer, so as an experienced mechanic I would assume you know those bolts are torque to yield spec, stretch bolts. So if it is a used bolt, on the 180° turn you attempting to stretch a bolt that's already been stretched. Will the bearing function with just the 180nm applied? Yes, of course.... however it's not just about function it's also a question of safety. The torque to yield specs of critical bolts are such that a margin of safety is accounted for..... so the only stretch available in a used/pre stretched bolt is that margin of safety, now that last bit of stretch has likely been used by the 180nm applied. Anymore torque applied past this limit and the bolt fails to yield and stops stretching, pushed any further and you are riding the point of failure where it will snap. Is this likely to happen in normal conditions?.... odds are very low, could it happen if the car hits a particularly nasty pot hole while cornering?..... absolutely. Of course any bolt can snap but they use stretch bolts in critical areas for good reason, they work. Thanks for the vid, I enjoyed it 👍
Yes ... I agree with you on the technical workings and attributes of TTY bolts. On this VW, the engineers screwed up. How and why? The owner had good tires, the wheels are balanced and BOTH rear bearings have failed (making a lot of noise) in the 40,000 mile range. Should have never happened. This is one of those times that the mechanic/technician has used his experience and not followed the manufacturer's instructions that had resulted in pre-mature bearing failure due to over torqued wheel bearings.
what about the anti Seize around the surface of the bearings? any input on the specific type or i should use it t all?? this is my First time doing this, about to replace both Rear wheel bearing on 2013 Passat S. in few days. any advise on what i should or should not do is appreciated .thanks
@@bassimobten7856 for the actual bearing and the shaft it slides onto, I just apply a thin film of standard lithium grease - very little required, some of the bearing kits come with a small sachet. The anti seize used on the hub/flange is just to make removing the wheel easier next time it comes off - it's totally optional but good practise.
@@shadytubes thank you, i bought Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant. you think this should be good or should i just get what you mentioned, the Lithium Grease? thanks again
I don’t have a way to measure the pounds of pressure. Is there another way to know if you’ve got the bolt tightened sufficiently? I tightened it to the point that I could not anymore but the bearing could still rotate all the way around
The bolt is a stretch bolt that will give under heat and requiring the need to be angle torqued. But you can get away with tighten your way but use thread lock on the bolt threads to make sure the bolt will never loosen up.
For an NMS Passat (2012-2020) and (I assume) the others with the same wheel bearing the torque specs for the center bearing bolt is 180nm(133 ft-lbs) + 180 degrees and the caliper bolts are 90nm(66 ft-lbs) + 90 degrees, according to the 2014 Volkswagen Passat Quick Reference Specification Book. So - 180/180 and 90/90. Simple and a bit clever.
If 177 lb/ft set and forget torque is good enough for a half ton 4wd truck then loc-tite, 170lb/ft set and forget will likely suffice for the average DIYer.
I disagree! I Replaced the new bearings with the existing bolts coating the threads with thread lock. Bearings have been holding up fine with no noise and excess free play. It's been 2 years and thousands of miles.
If that undamaged bolt fails or comes loose after reinstalling to torque with loctite I'll eat me triple square set. I've had hundreds of VW's apart for other repairs where I've had the front or rear hub bolts removed and have reused them religiously (as does the VW dealer techs) and we've never experienced a failure of that fastener. Nor have any of us experienced premature bearing failure from reusing aTTY bolt there. This is plain old German over-engineering at its finest.
Maybe that bearing isn’t moving freely due to the final 180• should be done with car on the ground or can ruin new bearing. That’s what Mark6 Jettas requires with same looking setup.
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah some come with a new bolt and some don’t. I’ve heard people reusing them with no problems but VW does say replace. Some reuse once then change it. Guess it’s up to you.
@@maximus-6788 For the first torque spec. Or both? I know a lot of VW’s require final degrees with car on the ground. This make and model may be different but pretty common across many models to do final degrees on ground..
@@hardlymovingpro Speaking of torque to yield bolts.. I went to Volkswagen dealership near me and guy at the service desk says all the techs reuse tty bolts unless they look Damaged and couldn’t believe it! I’d hope or imagine they use new on flywheel or similar technical areas.
Actually 180NM is 133 Ft-Lb (132.7612 Ft-lb to be exact) And, 180 ft-lb is way out of spect and over-tighten of a bolt that is supposed to be 180 NM plus 180 Degree Turn (ON A NEW BOLT!!!!) Repeat NEW BOLT!!! Not supposed to refuse old bolt.
If the bolt hasn't stretched. Otherwise, using torque specs won't work and a trip to the stealership to get a new bolt may be in order. Thanks for sharing!
Couple of things for those reading here.. 1) DON'T use red loctite, use blue. Red is a @#$%#$ to ever get back out and will require heat from a torch and a lot of cursing, it's not required here. 2) DON'T re-use torque to yield fasteners. Always toss them and replace with new. They are a one time use fastener and are stretched to their yield point (breaking point) already. 3) The torque specs are correct, if the bearing is locking up at spec, something else is wrong! Wrong bolt, stretched bolt, something is wrong. Stop, reassess, correct.
This is why I dislike working on German cars. Their cars are over engineered. TTY bolts for wheel hubs? Why? Both bearings wore out in under 45k miles! Toyota and Honda do not use TTY bolts on wheel hubs. Why do the Germans insist on replacing suspension nuts and bolts once removed? Their steel metallergy isn't as strong as Japanese steel?
@@hardlymovingpro It's not Germans, it's almost all manufacturers for quite some time now, around 10 years or so. The bolts are made of more pliable metals for the sole purpose of being able to achieve a very consistent clamp loading, and are far superior for such purposes. Think of them as a spring, because that is kind of how they behave. I will agree though that on a single bolt axle hub like in this video, it doesn't make a lot of sense because consistent clamping load isn't a thing when there is only one bolt. I'd rather have a standard grade 8 fastener there myself. I suppose they do it for consistency on the platform or something? Who knows. I guess it's so we can assume ALL the bolts on the car are single-use TTY. I also would add that the hub/bearing design on that German car was about as simple as one could ask for. It's a module, no heating, hammering, pressing races in, none of that BS. Just swap the entire cartridge and done, no BS.
@@funkyzero I did this job today on an 06 model, kit had new bolt and cap, old bolt was measurably stretched. I did 180Nm and 160 degrees was as far as I could do, bearing was very smooth and easy to turn. My stub axle was 30mm diameter, and I suspect the car in this video is also 30mm, the part listed that was used in this video is a 32mm bearing and I suspect that is the cause of all the problems. My original bearing had done 170000 miles and I only changed it to cure an ABS fault, the bearing was fine. Like you say, if it's not right it's wrong, and there is always a reason why.
@@squadmeta I've always wondered why the torque numbers are so ludicrous on those things. I could never get them all the way to 180. I'd need another 100lb in my rear and a 10' pipe. Anyway, I don't know how true it is, but someone told me it had something to do with reducing harmonics. Don't take this as "the word" because I don't know how true it is. All I know is spec + about 120 degrees is about all I can get out of it on my best day if I ate my Wheaties for breakfast, and I've never had a problem.
@@funkyzero 120 degrees was the point that my bar was flexing like crazy and I was happy to stop, 160 was all my weight on a 5' pipe, sketchy. Interesting take on the harmonics, never thought about it but I can understand the concept. Glad to hear 120 has always worked out for you, I think it's plenty!
Someone said the bearing bolt is a stretch / TTY bolt that needed replacement; that a new bolt would have taken the angle torque. Personally I think the design is a POS. Stretch bolts? Really!? Replacement bearings don't come with them. The original bearings didn't last 50k miles!
NO!!!! So many things wrong in this video!! 1. You cannot reuse the hub bolt as its a torque-to-yield bolt. 2. You don't use red loctite, it won't come off next time, only blue (what the OEM uses). 3. You're trying to say that manufacturer's torque specs are too high! maybe you have the wrong documents, or maybe it's because you're using an impact to install, when the OEM says not to. You shouldn't post how to videos if you're cutting corners, at least let the viewers know that you're doing something that is not by the book.
Just did a VW Jeta today...They got the key stuck in the running position.. So the wisdom says lets put some pliers son the key and crank on to turn it off....I had to drill the lock out. And they destroyed the lock housing doing it... All they needed to do was use a heavy push pin. Slide it behind the key cylinder. Where that hole it push real hard., It pops out..... Now it will cost them $400.00 for parts.Then $350.00 for me too take the hole steering wheel apart to replace the whole thing....Thank God VW will program the key to the VIN for free...
Ive had this where my mk6 wouldn't turn off. A quick fix till tech could repair was to flick the key forward quickly and it should flip back, killing the engine. Make sure you are in park or nuetral first.
Two things:
Never knew about the access port for the carrier bolt. Thank you - for saving me from the wobble - extension - angle joint rodeo.
As everyone else said - get a new TTY bolt - less than $5. most kits come with it and a new cap anyway.
The rationale for a TTY bolt for a wheel bearing doesn't make sense. Like the bearings will reach hundreds of degrees like a cylinder head and the bolt needs to stretch? This customer's Jetta with 40k miles had both rear bearings fail! Too much tension with the TTY bolts?
VW hub bolt/nut torque specs may seem insanely high, but when compared to domestic manufacturers, which fail at an alarming rate in my area, I replace VW wheel bearings mainly for ABS codes and rarely growling or loose conditions. Nonetheless, great video and very informative for DIYers.
Thanks for sharing!
The Wheel bearing bolt is a Torque-To-Yield Bolt. It is a one time use bolt, which needs to be replaced. Reusing a bolt will result in the wrong preload of the bearing.
If it's that important, it's interesting how none of the replacement hub/bearings come with a new TTY bolt. Also, I don't know why they made it a TTY bolt? Both rear bearings failed in around 40k miles! Reuse the bolt with lock tight on the threads. Customer has been doing fine with the replacement bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro Any Wheel Bearing Kit from the dealer comes with it. Also any wheel bearing from a reputable aftermarket supplier has the bolt.
My rear bearings went out at 190k 😂😂 06 gti and it still runs
Thanks for sharing!
@@gtacyclist655 True. I just ordered Schaeffler wheel hub assemblies for all four wheels of my 2017 Jetta GLI and they came with the bolts.
Just did mine. Start with 180nm then tightening a further 90. Bearing would not move. I loosened it off retorque then just added little bits so it could still turn. Ive seen other vids where they havnt had tbis issue. Ill recheck the bolt in a few weeks
The problem you encountered with the 90 degree turn that didn't work is that the bearing bolt is a TTY (Torque Till Yield) or stretch bolt. Weird design! They say you need to replace this bolt when replacing the hub bearing. But if the bolt is that critical, why wasn't it included with the new hub? Also, the hub I replaced in the VW has both rear bearings wear out in around 40k miles. I believe this TTY bearing bolt design is flawed resulting in premature rear bearing failures. So I did what you did but added lock tight to the threads.
I would not use RED locktite when the bolt had BLUE locktite. Red requires heat to remove.
I've noticed no difference.
i use Red, never needed heat to remove
Yeah red locktite should not require heat, it just needs more force than the blue stuff..... but I will admit the red stuff can be a b!tch and heat will make things much easier. Blue and red locktite both create a temporary bond, the red being a lot stronger but not permanent. Now green locktite is what I class as permanent and certainly does require heat to break the bond.
red is fine... or none is fine. been servicing cars over 15 years. n0 lock tight required heat to remove, just elbow greese
I'd agree.
Would it be ok to just take apart the brakes instead by removing the pads and rotor?
That's more work if you're up for it.
Please correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like the old bolt went back in on that main bearing. I see you mention the job is for a customer, so as an experienced mechanic I would assume you know those bolts are torque to yield spec, stretch bolts. So if it is a used bolt, on the 180° turn you attempting to stretch a bolt that's already been stretched. Will the bearing function with just the 180nm applied? Yes, of course.... however it's not just about function it's also a question of safety. The torque to yield specs of critical bolts are such that a margin of safety is accounted for..... so the only stretch available in a used/pre stretched bolt is that margin of safety, now that last bit of stretch has likely been used by the 180nm applied. Anymore torque applied past this limit and the bolt fails to yield and stops stretching, pushed any further and you are riding the point of failure where it will snap. Is this likely to happen in normal conditions?.... odds are very low, could it happen if the car hits a particularly nasty pot hole while cornering?..... absolutely. Of course any bolt can snap but they use stretch bolts in critical areas for good reason, they work. Thanks for the vid, I enjoyed it 👍
Yes ... I agree with you on the technical workings and attributes of TTY bolts. On this VW, the engineers screwed up. How and why? The owner had good tires, the wheels are balanced and BOTH rear bearings have failed (making a lot of noise) in the 40,000 mile range. Should have never happened. This is one of those times that the mechanic/technician has used his experience and not followed the manufacturer's instructions that had resulted in pre-mature bearing failure due to over torqued wheel bearings.
Come on guys, its for a customer, NOT your own car
what about the anti Seize around the surface of the bearings? any input on the specific type or i should use it t all?? this is my First time doing this, about to replace both Rear wheel bearing on 2013 Passat S. in few days. any advise on what i should or should not do is appreciated .thanks
@@bassimobten7856 for the actual bearing and the shaft it slides onto, I just apply a thin film of standard lithium grease - very little required, some of the bearing kits come with a small sachet. The anti seize used on the hub/flange is just to make removing the wheel easier next time it comes off - it's totally optional but good practise.
@@shadytubes thank you, i bought Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant. you think this should be good or should i just get what you mentioned, the Lithium Grease? thanks again
I have to do this soon on my 2016 jetta 1.4 should I just do what you did instead of the 180 degree turn ?
I would say so. Maybe the factory did 180 degrees causing this customer's bearings to wear out early at 40k miles.
@@hardlymovingpro have you had any issues at all without doing the factory specifications?
So far no customer complaints.
I don’t have a way to measure the pounds of pressure. Is there another way to know if you’ve got the bolt tightened sufficiently?
I tightened it to the point that I could not anymore but the bearing could still rotate all the way around
The bolt is a stretch bolt that will give under heat and requiring the need to be angle torqued. But you can get away with tighten your way but use thread lock on the bolt threads to make sure the bolt will never loosen up.
For an NMS Passat (2012-2020) and (I assume) the others with the same wheel bearing the torque specs for the center bearing bolt is 180nm(133 ft-lbs) + 180 degrees and the caliper bolts are 90nm(66 ft-lbs) + 90 degrees, according to the 2014 Volkswagen Passat
Quick Reference Specification Book.
So - 180/180 and 90/90. Simple and a bit clever.
Thanks for sharing!
Does it have to be so specifically tightened I don’t have any equipment to measure would an eyeball and hand tight work?
Torque wrenches are not expensive.
@@hardlymovingpro do you also think it’s necessary to replace bolt for bearing
Believe the bolt is a TTY stretch bolt.
Thank you, helped a lot A+++
Glad it helped!
Astute analysis of the over-torque problem.
Thanks! Some argue they're stretch bolts that need replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro I think I’m going with a lighter torque and just check it when I change the snow tires. I bet my fuel economy improves🧐
If 177 lb/ft set and forget torque is good enough for a half ton 4wd truck then loc-tite, 170lb/ft set and forget will likely suffice for the average DIYer.
@gmctech I'd agree!
Great tutorials, Keep them coming 👍
Thanks, will do!
Always replace that hub bolt. It's torque to yield, so it stretches. That bold is the only thing holding your rear wheel on.
I disagree! I Replaced the new bearings with the existing bolts coating the threads with thread lock. Bearings have been holding up fine with no noise and excess free play. It's been 2 years and thousands of miles.
Good, close enough
If that undamaged bolt fails or comes loose after reinstalling to torque with loctite I'll eat me triple square set. I've had hundreds of VW's apart for other repairs where I've had the front or rear hub bolts removed and have reused them religiously (as does the VW dealer techs) and we've never experienced a failure of that fastener. Nor have any of us experienced premature bearing failure from reusing aTTY bolt there. This is plain old German over-engineering at its finest.
Maybe that bearing isn’t moving freely due to the final 180• should be done with car on the ground or can ruin new bearing. That’s what Mark6 Jettas requires with same looking setup.
People have said that the mounting bolt's a stretch bolt that should have been replaced. No new stretch bolt came the the replacement bearing.
no, vw says that car must be lifted when tightening!
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah some come with a new bolt and some don’t. I’ve heard people reusing them with no problems but VW does say replace. Some reuse once then change it. Guess it’s up to you.
@@maximus-6788 For the first torque spec. Or both? I know a lot of VW’s require final degrees with car on the ground. This make and model may be different but pretty common across many models to do final degrees on ground..
@@hardlymovingpro Speaking of torque to yield bolts.. I went to Volkswagen dealership near me and guy at the service desk says all the techs reuse tty bolts unless they look Damaged and couldn’t believe it! I’d hope or imagine they use new on flywheel or similar technical areas.
Actually 180NM is 133 Ft-Lb (132.7612 Ft-lb to be exact) And, 180 ft-lb is way out of spect and over-tighten of a bolt that is supposed to be 180 NM plus 180 Degree Turn (ON A NEW BOLT!!!!) Repeat NEW BOLT!!! Not supposed to refuse old bolt.
Thanks for sharing!
Vw golf 4 torque specs is 70 nm + 90 degre turn I think is same for all vw cars
If the bolt hasn't stretched. Otherwise, using torque specs won't work and a trip to the stealership to get a new bolt may be in order. Thanks for sharing!
Couple of things for those reading here..
1) DON'T use red loctite, use blue. Red is a @#$%#$ to ever get back out and will require heat from a torch and a lot of cursing, it's not required here.
2) DON'T re-use torque to yield fasteners. Always toss them and replace with new. They are a one time use fastener and are stretched to their yield point (breaking point) already.
3) The torque specs are correct, if the bearing is locking up at spec, something else is wrong! Wrong bolt, stretched bolt, something is wrong. Stop, reassess, correct.
This is why I dislike working on German cars. Their cars are over engineered. TTY bolts for wheel hubs? Why? Both bearings wore out in under 45k miles! Toyota and Honda do not use TTY bolts on wheel hubs. Why do the Germans insist on replacing suspension nuts and bolts once removed? Their steel metallergy isn't as strong as Japanese steel?
@@hardlymovingpro
It's not Germans, it's almost all manufacturers for quite some time now, around 10 years or so. The bolts are made of more pliable metals for the sole purpose of being able to achieve a very consistent clamp loading, and are far superior for such purposes. Think of them as a spring, because that is kind of how they behave. I will agree though that on a single bolt axle hub like in this video, it doesn't make a lot of sense because consistent clamping load isn't a thing when there is only one bolt. I'd rather have a standard grade 8 fastener there myself. I suppose they do it for consistency on the platform or something? Who knows. I guess it's so we can assume ALL the bolts on the car are single-use TTY.
I also would add that the hub/bearing design on that German car was about as simple as one could ask for. It's a module, no heating, hammering, pressing races in, none of that BS. Just swap the entire cartridge and done, no BS.
@@funkyzero I did this job today on an 06 model, kit had new bolt and cap, old bolt was measurably stretched. I did 180Nm and 160 degrees was as far as I could do, bearing was very smooth and easy to turn. My stub axle was 30mm diameter, and I suspect the car in this video is also 30mm, the part listed that was used in this video is a 32mm bearing and I suspect that is the cause of all the problems. My original bearing had done 170000 miles and I only changed it to cure an ABS fault, the bearing was fine. Like you say, if it's not right it's wrong, and there is always a reason why.
@@squadmeta I've always wondered why the torque numbers are so ludicrous on those things. I could never get them all the way to 180. I'd need another 100lb in my rear and a 10' pipe. Anyway, I don't know how true it is, but someone told me it had something to do with reducing harmonics. Don't take this as "the word" because I don't know how true it is. All I know is spec + about 120 degrees is about all I can get out of it on my best day if I ate my Wheaties for breakfast, and I've never had a problem.
@@funkyzero 120 degrees was the point that my bar was flexing like crazy and I was happy to stop, 160 was all my weight on a 5' pipe, sketchy. Interesting take on the harmonics, never thought about it but I can understand the concept. Glad to hear 120 has always worked out for you, I think it's plenty!
That new bearing shouldn't take that much effort to move. Something not right there.
They (VW) used thread lock on the mounting bolt which makes it harder to remove.
Good video. I also think the OEM over torqued these.
Someone said the bearing bolt is a stretch / TTY bolt that needed replacement; that a new bolt would have taken the angle torque. Personally I think the design is a POS. Stretch bolts? Really!? Replacement bearings don't come with them. The original bearings didn't last 50k miles!
There are 2 bearing sizes, I think you’ve fitted the wrong one.
No problems reported with the customer.
I saw the same thing. This will be a comeback. That looked like a 32mm wheel bearing on a 30mm stub axle.
i think the same , got in place to easy probably wrong bearing 32 mm instead of 30mm
NO!!!! So many things wrong in this video!!
1. You cannot reuse the hub bolt as its a torque-to-yield bolt.
2. You don't use red loctite, it won't come off next time, only blue (what the OEM uses).
3. You're trying to say that manufacturer's torque specs are too high! maybe you have the wrong documents, or maybe it's because you're using an impact to install, when the OEM says not to.
You shouldn't post how to videos if you're cutting corners, at least let the viewers know that you're doing something that is not by the book.
Thanks for sharing! Both rear bearings, which went bad in under 40k miles, have been working fine since installation with the original TTY bolts.
@@hardlymovingpro yeah but by the book it's replace that bolt and and add on 180° to the torque spec. Heh it's your deal ... Good job man
Well spotted. Load off them on TH-cam who miss or don't do things correctly.
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
That bearing you bought is very poor quality IMHO.
Really? Do some research into GMB.
Just did a VW Jeta today...They got the key stuck in the running position.. So the wisdom says lets put some pliers son the key and crank on to turn it off....I had to drill the lock out. And they destroyed the lock housing doing it... All they needed to do was use a heavy push pin. Slide it behind the key cylinder. Where that hole it push real hard., It pops out.....
Now it will cost them $400.00 for parts.Then $350.00 for me too take the hole steering wheel apart to replace the whole thing....Thank God VW will program the key to the VIN for free...
Live and learn!
Ive had this where my mk6 wouldn't turn off. A quick fix till tech could repair was to flick the key forward quickly and it should flip back, killing the engine. Make sure you are in park or nuetral first.
That not correct bearing. Something is wrong that. Normally its rotate freely even over tighten it
Bearings where making a lot of noise before the replacement. Not anymore.
That bearing should rotate freely.
That center bolt is bigger than an 18. I don't know the exact size but 18 is way too small.
Good to own a triple square socket set if the specs change with the manufacturer.
Over engineering at its finest they could have easily added a rubber plug to have access to that one bolt.
Why even a plug at all?
@@hardlymovingpro exactly
I am not a fan of euro cars, they seem to be complicated in everything.
You said it!