Where do you notice the oil leak the most? Do you notice the leak coming out the side of the valley towards the transmission side and front of the motor?
@@deecee7300 mine leaked when it got cold out. Down the back of the engine by the transmission. Initially I thought it was the cap for the oil filter but then the pressure sending unit went out and I knew it had to be the whole filter/cooler. If you shine a flashlight down around the oil filter tube and on the back side under the intake you can see. It shouldn’t be wet at all. I also went through about 2 rolls of paper towel cleaning up all the oil once I pulled the cooler. Definitely make sure to squeeze that radiator line like in the video. Lots of antifreeze comes out when you pull that cooler off. Don’t want that to mix with the oil in the engine. I didn’t have the radiator pliers, so I wrapped the teeth of a Vice grip with electrical tape. It works lol
True appreciation of a professional doing it in nearly real time. Most home mechanics would probably take all morning or the better part of the day thinking about every step of the way instead of just getting it down as efficiently as you.
Pro tip when you remove the upper and lower intakes, make sure to stuff the intake holes with a paprer towl or clean rag to avoid spills into the engine block! This is a great video, btw!
Thank you for taking the time to show this. I replaced the filter housing and cooler in my wifes '15 trailhawk today with the aluminum Dorman part, and threw in an oil pressure switch and new plugs while I was at it. Jeep fired up and purred like a kitten with no codes or leaks. I primarily used your video as guidance. Really appreciate the tutorial.
I just did this repair on my daughter’s 2014 Cherokee 3.2. 80,000miles. Followed your video, step by step. The only problem was the air filter tube where it slide over the post in the back. Literally the hardest part of this job was getting that off. It comes off similar to the engine cover. The rest wasn’t bad and you explained it all perfectly. Thanks again. Saved me about $1500 from dealer fees.
I watched this video three times before I changed my Oil cooler. I was able to complete this in a little under three hours and that's with changing the spark plugs too. Thanks for a great video. You saved me a thousand bucks!
the dealer just quoted me $3300 for this and valve cover gasket repair. I mean they didn't combine labor as the valve cover is above and below with most of the labor being identical. I just spent $600 at Autozone for the replacement aluminum oil assembly, valve gaskets and a full set of plugs and some odds and ends. I'll be using this video in the morning to start the work. Thank you for doing this Tyler!
Great video and well demonstrated. Very easy too follow and great short cuts like the front brackets and the hose clamp. One of the best I've seen in a while and made the job easy. Thank you
I’m subscribing purely because this is the most objective, professional, and straight up informative video I’ve seen on car repair on youtube. Great work, I’ll be binging more I’m sure.
Wow that means a lot I try to cut out most of the BS and get to the point in most of my videos. Even though I find my self a little long winded sometimes! Thanks for the sub and view!
bravo dude.. real sweet video ..im a disabled mechanic and guide my son through brake jobs, lights and suspension work etc on my 2015 trailhawk. seriously contemplating having him do this on my jeep. the dealership told me 1200. mine is out of warranty and they said just has the beginnings of a small leak.spark plugs were replaced at 100,000 miles. wish it was noticeable at that time
This is truly the best video for this repair. I did it on my 2017 Jeep Cherokee. Unclipping the injectors is the hardest part and I would suggest getting a cheap pneumatic fluid extractor, its worth every penny for anyone doing this.
Thanks for putting this together. Found a puddle of oil under my wife's Cherokee this morning and had no clue what it was. Found your video and based on your explanation I am 99% sure it's an oil cooler leak. Appreciate the walkthrough, I'll be knocking this out in a week or two!
Performed this on a 2018 Jeep Cherokee overland with 77k miles this morning in about 3 hours with power washing. Very good video and guidance. I did struggle removing the oil temp sensor from the old oil cooler and had to go pick up a new one for $40. Probably best to replace it anyways, but others might want to be prepared to replace the oil temp and pressure sensors or have them on hand just in case one or both are seized when moving from old to new cooler.
Had to have fixed in my GC with the 3.6. Did not even finish saying “oil leak” and the shop was “oil cooler”. Great idea putting a plastic part that gets brittle in the valley of the engine…
Tyler, thank you for the walkthrough on this as I just replaced my unit this weekend at 80k on my 2016 3.2L. Your tip about prying away the front intake support brackets was priceless, saved me a ton of time and effort!
Thanks for the awesome video. It was very well done and a big help in replacing the oil cooler on my 2015 Cherokee. One thing I did different is that I removed the stud below the two 10 mm nuts on the back of the upper intake manifold (in addition to removing the two 10mm nuts). Doing that I did not have to bend the front mounting tabs. The stud was a bear to get out because it presses against the wiring harness. After taking it out, I cut off about 1/2 inch off the end of the stud that was pressing against the wiring harness making it much easier to get back in (and get back out next time). PS - I can't take credit for removing the stud I saw that in a couple of other TH-cam videos. Thanks again for the great video.
It's absolutely an awesome video! Thank you very much for putting it together. You laid it out so well that a weekend warrior (me) just pulled it off without issues.
Thank You!!! This was so helpful, my wife’s trail hawk is leak free. The first time this happened at 50 thousand it was still under warranty. This is the second time at 140 I had to tackle it myself, I guess these vehicles notorious for this. Well done
All I can say is 5 stars bro. I kept this on my phone pausing as I completed steps as you did them. I got a 2019 with the 3.2l. Minor differences. But agai. Thank you for such an informative and helpful video.
Great video. Just one question. Why would you put another plastic oil cooler back on when you can get an all aluminum aftermarket oil cooler and not have to change it again in a few years?
I completed this job yesterday by following this video! Thank you 🙏🏻 I did struggle with the brackets though. I couldn’t bend the front two out of the way, so I had to remove the two lugnuts on the back one and the bolt at the bottom of it, which was connected to the wire harness. I wasn’t able to put that bolt back yet, but it stays in place just fine with the two lugnuts at the top. The red tabs on the fuel injectors were easier to get off without breaking by using a pick tool and lifting up lightly. Also the one thing I didn’t see included was (at least for mine- 2017) the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure switch were bolted on to the housing, and needed to be taken off the old one and put on the new one. This required a special oil pressure switch socket in order to remove. Thanks again for this video!!
Yes the factory Mopar oil cooler normally come with the new sensors installed, but I believe some of the aftermarket cooler don't have them. Thanks for the view!
I spent a bunch of time trying to bent those front brackets before I figure out the trick - you just take two metal bars and put them deeper to bent it back easily. DEEPER is the key.
Thanks, excellent video. Saved some money today. But I have to say, I was in a controlled panic tearing it down. I was terrified I was going to break something while I was bending those brackets down. All good and much appreciated.
Hey guy ! I used your video to solve my wife’s jeep leaking . Awesome straight to the point video . Thanks for posting and subscribing for the next one !
Great video!! My '15 KL TH had a slight leak, and then we had a cold snap, down to 0°. Now it spews oil. I was going to take it to the dealer, but this video changed my mind. Looks like ill be doing it myself next weekend. (As long as I can get the part). Thanks much!!
@@konradjaworski3222do tell more. Had my oil cooler replaced about a year ago. Just overheated over the last week and now there’s oil in the coolant. Never had any problems before
I wish you would have done a video on replacing an ac evaporator with high quality camera work like this and detailed explaining. But this definitely is gonna help later this week.
Great video !! AWESOME detail !!! I replaced mine a few years ago using your exact directions 😊 My upper radiator hose blew out, and i got a transmission overheat, car started smoking and i shut it off. I replaced the hose and all seemed ok. This morning i noticed my coolant reservoir level was almost empty, and my oil level was below minimum. Now i notice there is oil and coolant in my reservoir!! Any suggestions on what i should check first and how? Did i blow the head gasket, crack the block or crack the oil cooler again 😡 Any help would be much appreciated 😊 Thanks
Just did it, it worked! I used an aluminum cooler which is a bit different in shape but I managed to fit it in. You first try to put it in place without the pipe to find out the way to fit it. Thanks!
Jeep Cherokee, 3.2 L , 150K miles. Started leaking with the first cold days. Looking at the old replaced cooler I didn't find any cracks or any other unusual things....
Nice, Mopar stopped offering the lifetime maxcare warranty a year or two ago. It is a really great warranty that covers just about everything! Thanks for the view as always!
@@TylerPotter I know. And it's paid for itself a few times over. Every time I'm in for service sales tries their darnedest to put me in a new minivan. I tell them that I have the lifetime contract that's no longer available and they kinda give up. Service seems to like it though.
Wow...wow....you rule bro!! I just did this to my 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk 3.2 with your awesome step by step!! No more leaks!! I did the plugs at the same time. Thanks sooo much. For some reason my idle is low now when I put it in gear and the check engine light is on. Any suggestions on what I may have done wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated 😊
@@TylerPotter Sooo yeah I took the car to Autozone they offer a free code scan and the code was trouble with cylinder 5 or coil pack for injector 5. Or plugs( which i had just done while apart ) Or manifold gaskets( which i had already done also). So I picked up a new coil pack and went home to take the top manifold off again. All this to find out that I had not connected the connector for cylinder 5 !!!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Sooo i could have been done yesterday but human error got in the way. Anyway, running great now and check engine light is out. I just want to say thanks again for such an informative, easy to follow video! You saved me a bunch of money, and you even followed up with additional suggestions and texts. You are top notch !!!! 😊
Got a challenging one for you! I run a fleet of Promasters, each van doing about 110k miles per year. I’m toying with the idea of swapping in a 3.2 in place of the 3.6. Why? Two reasons. Fuel economy, and cost. Junkyards get pretty close to two grand for a 14-up Journey engjne these days (the Journey is identical to the Promaster engine with the exception of the dipstick tube, motor mount, and fuel rail) and that’s for a high mileage engine. Meanwhile, the 3.2 is like crazy cheap - under $500 for a 40k or less engine. So I have 3 main questions. 1. Are all pentastar bellhousings generic, meaning is a 3.2 likely to bolt to a 62TE? 2. Does the 3.2 have EGR? Looks like it doesnt, best I can tell. 3. Generally, a 3.2 is just an underbored 3.6. The Promaster computer will be expecting 3.6L, but it occurs to me that such a small difference in displacement will just get trimmed out. In other words, the computer may target 14.6:1 A/F, and adjust fuel to hit that, rather than get confused by the lack of airflow. I dont care if it sets a code, as long as it runs stoch. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Yes I think the bellhousings are the same, no the 3.6 or the 3.2 do not have EGR valves, and yes I believe the 3.2 was just a slightly less stroked/bored 3.6. I would think the O2 sensors would read and compensate for the slight change with fueling but I really don't know for sure. It was be a interesting project and I'm about sure you would be the only one! Thanks for the view!
I watched your other video on the housing replacement. It helped me out a lot on my 2017 JKU. My question is, Dorman now makes an aluminum one. Have you used it yet? Just wondering for the next time. Thanks so much!
I still haven't got a chance to use the metal one. At the shop they are normally under some sort of warranty and the warranty's normally only cover the factory parts for replacement. Thanks for the view!
If the oil cooler tend to go out in cold weather would an engine block heater be beneficial ? I'm guessing cold thick oil is busting the seals of the cooler
Hi mate, the video was really helpful. I have a 2014 Jeep Cherokee KL, and there was oil leaking from around the oil filter housing. I replaced the oil filter housing, but after 2 weeks, the oil started leaking again. Could you please advise me on what I might have done wrong?
awesome, and clear video, thank you. Thank gawd, I only have to pay $100 dollars for my car insurance to do this job, it does not look fun for the DIY guy.
I am a fan of them personally, I just bought a wrangler with the 3.6 engine. I think that says something when a mechanic is willing to buy something lol Yes we see some rocker arm and cam issues but it really isn't a bad job to replace them if it were to happen.
this is what i suspected i took it to repair shop mechanic said it was my engine block 3rd cylinder front gasket leaking. The thing is he never took the intake manifold off. I asked him if he was sure the oil wasnt coming from the coolant. He told me that the 3.2L doesnt have that issue... But yet it does! So does that mean he is most likely lying that he found a leak in my engine cylinder gasket?
FANTASTIC video. Order the part now. I'll post back in a couple weeks and let all know how it went. My Cherokee's oil housing is leaking pretty bad all of the sudden and this will help me fix it.
To anybody who does this job and somehow opens or turns the car into accessory mode you’ll get a few codes and two permanent codes for throttle response clear your codes and those permanent codes will stay but won’t pop a check engine. Codes will say throttle response A or B open or short
Hi Tyler, Thanks for the great video detailing how to get to this defective part that Mopar should be paying for to replace. Anyways what did you do when you broke the red lock tabs off the injectors? I hope you don't have to replace them when this happens. I am going to give this a try and I know what could go wrong will with me doing this job. I know enough to realize that noting is as easy as it looks online.
Yes it is a little less detailed though so with both this video and the Cherokee video it should hopefully get it! th-cam.com/video/VWIR_WEvxqM/w-d-xo.html
On Amazon for example there are tons of the aluminum version. Is that part screwing into aluminum or is it plastic. I think that matters what material that housing is made out of what is screwing into
Do you have to recalibrate your throttle control after your done. Because I followed your video and went great but now I'm getting the service electronic throttle control lightning bolt
Weird I have never had one have that issues after this? I guess I would make sure you connectors are all correctly plugged in and try clearing codes or unplugging the battery to clear codes and see it the issues returns.
Well, I'm done mine, now I have an overheating engine. I wonder ,could it be a coolant air lock? I didn't have the hose pliers as seen in your video.are these 3.2lt engines prone to air locks in the cooling system? Thanks
So every winter these oil coolers go out? You said in the cold they tend to leak and I’ve heard similar stories from other JK’s owners, even ones with low mileage
We normally don't see them fail again after being replaced or at least we haven't had people back into the shop after a replacement. Thanks for the view!
That is a trick question! In the past the new coolers have always came with the sensors installed but of recent we have been noticing that it seems like chance on if there will be sensors on the new cooler when we open the box at work. Now the original sensors can be swapped to the new cooler if you would like. Thanks for the view!
Does anyone know the thread specs for those 5 E8 bolts that mount the oil cooler to the engine block? I stripped the threads on mine whilst man handling the damn thing and am looking to drop in a helicoil if I can figure out the thread pattern.
I can't remember off hand but I did have one with damaged threads and was able to find a longer bolt and catch a few threads at the bottom of the hole for the cooler in the block.
Please help. My engine doesn’t have the two bolts in the front for the intake. It almost looks like there is a very small nut on both that doesn’t fit any wrench?
No I have found with the hose pinch off pliers on that back coolant hose and then using a fluid evacuation tool to suck the coolant out of the valley no coolant gets down into the oil system. You will still need to top off the coolant after the install but not much is lost. Thanks for the view!
Before I do this job on my '12 Chrysler Touring convertible I have been contemplating also ordering and using the aluminum Dorman OE Solutions Oil Filter Adapter 926-876 with the idea of fixing it once and never having a problem again regardless of age or vehicle miles.
Oil cooler to engine block is 106 in-lbs
Upper intake bolts 89 in-lbs
Lower intake bolts 106 in-lbs
Where do you notice the oil leak the most? Do you notice the leak coming out the side of the valley towards the transmission side and front of the motor?
@@deecee7300 mine leaked when it got cold out. Down the back of the engine by the transmission. Initially I thought it was the cap for the oil filter but then the pressure sending unit went out and I knew it had to be the whole filter/cooler.
If you shine a flashlight down around the oil filter tube and on the back side under the intake you can see. It shouldn’t be wet at all. I also went through about 2 rolls of paper towel cleaning up all the oil once I pulled the cooler. Definitely make sure to squeeze that radiator line like in the video. Lots of antifreeze comes out when you pull that cooler off. Don’t want that to mix with the oil in the engine. I didn’t have the radiator pliers, so I wrapped the teeth of a Vice grip with electrical tape. It works lol
THANK YOU!!! I CAME HERE LOOKING FOR THAT LOL
True appreciation of a professional doing it in nearly real time. Most home mechanics would probably take all morning or the better part of the day thinking about every step of the way instead of just getting it down as efficiently as you.
Thanks for the view and the good words!
Pro tip when you remove the upper and lower intakes, make sure to stuff the intake holes with a paprer towl or clean rag to avoid spills into the engine block! This is a great video, btw!
Thank you for taking the time to show this. I replaced the filter housing and cooler in my wifes '15 trailhawk today with the aluminum Dorman part, and threw in an oil pressure switch and new plugs while I was at it. Jeep fired up and purred like a kitten with no codes or leaks. I primarily used your video as guidance. Really appreciate the tutorial.
Awesome I'm glad you got it taken care of! Thanks for the view!
Hhhmmmm I need to install that into the new cooler?....
I just did this repair on my daughter’s 2014 Cherokee 3.2. 80,000miles.
Followed your video, step by step. The only problem was the air filter tube where it slide over the post in the back. Literally the hardest part of this job was getting that off. It comes off similar to the engine cover. The rest wasn’t bad and you explained it all perfectly. Thanks again. Saved me about $1500 from dealer fees.
Oh yeah I know the exact part you are talking about! A lot of them break during removal it really is a pain!
I watched this video three times before I changed my Oil cooler. I was able to complete this in a little under three hours and that's with changing the spark plugs too. Thanks for a great video. You saved me a thousand bucks!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the view!
Where did you buy the part Jeremy?
the dealer just quoted me $3300 for this and valve cover gasket repair. I mean they didn't combine labor as the valve cover is above and below with most of the labor being identical. I just spent $600 at Autozone for the replacement aluminum oil assembly, valve gaskets and a full set of plugs and some odds and ends. I'll be using this video in the morning to start the work. Thank you for doing this Tyler!
Great video and well demonstrated. Very easy too follow and great short cuts like the front brackets and the hose clamp. One of the best I've seen in a while and made the job easy. Thank you
I’m subscribing purely because this is the most objective, professional, and straight up informative video I’ve seen on car repair on youtube. Great work, I’ll be binging more I’m sure.
Wow that means a lot I try to cut out most of the BS and get to the point in most of my videos. Even though I find my self a little long winded sometimes! Thanks for the sub and view!
First time looking at newer Jeep models on TH-cam. Great video. And thank goodness I still have my real Cherokee with the inline 6!
bravo dude.. real sweet video ..im a disabled mechanic and guide my son through brake jobs, lights and suspension work etc on my 2015 trailhawk. seriously contemplating having him do this on my jeep. the dealership told me 1200. mine is out of warranty and they said just has the beginnings of a small leak.spark plugs were replaced at 100,000 miles. wish it was noticeable at that time
Dude I just want to thank you! I followed your video and successfully changed out my oil cooler myself instead of spending $700
This is truly the best video for this repair. I did it on my 2017 Jeep Cherokee. Unclipping the injectors is the hardest part and I would suggest getting a cheap pneumatic fluid extractor, its worth every penny for anyone doing this.
Those injector clips are the worst! Thanks for the good words and view!
Just hady jeep done so far so good
I'd agree the turkey baster method I used wasn't the best
Thanks for putting this together. Found a puddle of oil under my wife's Cherokee this morning and had no clue what it was. Found your video and based on your explanation I am 99% sure it's an oil cooler leak. Appreciate the walkthrough, I'll be knocking this out in a week or two!
Videos like this are what make TH-cam so helpful. This is superior to every other video I’ve seen on this job.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the view!
Performed this on a 2018 Jeep Cherokee overland with 77k miles this morning in about 3 hours with power washing. Very good video and guidance. I did struggle removing the oil temp sensor from the old oil cooler and had to go pick up a new one for $40. Probably best to replace it anyways, but others might want to be prepared to replace the oil temp and pressure sensors or have them on hand just in case one or both are seized when moving from old to new cooler.
I'm replacing this part on my 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2 tomorrow. I'll be using your video as a guide! Thank you.
Had to have fixed in my GC with the 3.6. Did not even finish saying “oil leak” and the shop was “oil cooler”. Great idea putting a plastic part that gets brittle in the valley of the engine…
Yeah and then covering it up with 2 intake manifolds... Thanks for the view!
Tyler, thank you for the walkthrough on this as I just replaced my unit this weekend at 80k on my 2016 3.2L. Your tip about prying away the front intake support brackets was priceless, saved me a ton of time and effort!
Thanks for the awesome video. It was very well done and a big help in replacing the oil cooler on my 2015 Cherokee. One thing I did different is that I removed the stud below the two 10 mm nuts on the back of the upper intake manifold (in addition to removing the two 10mm nuts). Doing that I did not have to bend the front mounting tabs. The stud was a bear to get out because it presses against the wiring harness. After taking it out, I cut off about 1/2 inch off the end of the stud that was pressing against the wiring harness making it much easier to get back in (and get back out next time).
PS - I can't take credit for removing the stud I saw that in a couple of other TH-cam videos.
Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks for the info and the view!
Thank you. It was a great step by step, all the way down to disconnecting the wiring!
It's absolutely an awesome video! Thank you very much for putting it together. You laid it out so well that a weekend warrior (me) just pulled it off without issues.
Thank You!!! This was so helpful, my wife’s trail hawk is leak free. The first time this happened at 50 thousand it was still under warranty. This is the second time at 140 I had to tackle it myself, I guess these vehicles notorious for this. Well done
Glad I could help! The cold weather always seems to make them fail. Thanks for the view!
All I can say is 5 stars bro. I kept this on my phone pausing as I completed steps as you did them. I got a 2019 with the 3.2l. Minor differences. But agai. Thank you for such an informative and helpful video.
No problem! Thanks for the view!
Thank you for the video Tyler. You made the job easy on my 2016 Jeep Cherokee. Appreciate your work!
Great video. Just one question. Why would you put another plastic oil cooler back on when you can get an all aluminum aftermarket oil cooler and not have to change it again in a few years?
I completed this job yesterday by following this video! Thank you 🙏🏻 I did struggle with the brackets though. I couldn’t bend the front two out of the way, so I had to remove the two lugnuts on the back one and the bolt at the bottom of it, which was connected to the wire harness. I wasn’t able to put that bolt back yet, but it stays in place just fine with the two lugnuts at the top.
The red tabs on the fuel injectors were easier to get off without breaking by using a pick tool and lifting up lightly.
Also the one thing I didn’t see included was (at least for mine- 2017) the oil temp sensor and the oil pressure switch were bolted on to the housing, and needed to be taken off the old one and put on the new one. This required a special oil pressure switch socket in order to remove.
Thanks again for this video!!
Yes the factory Mopar oil cooler normally come with the new sensors installed, but I believe some of the aftermarket cooler don't have them. Thanks for the view!
I spent a bunch of time trying to bent those front brackets before I figure out the trick - you just take two metal bars and put them deeper to bent it back easily. DEEPER is the key.
Thanks, excellent video. Saved some money today. But I have to say, I was in a controlled panic tearing it down. I was terrified I was going to break something while I was bending those brackets down. All good and much appreciated.
Yes after doing 100's of them it is less terrifying! Thanks for the view!
Hey guy ! I used your video to solve my wife’s jeep leaking . Awesome straight to the point video . Thanks for posting and subscribing for the next one !
Awesome glad I could help!
Great video!! My '15 KL TH had a slight leak, and then we had a cold snap, down to 0°. Now it spews oil. I was going to take it to the dealer, but this video changed my mind. Looks like ill be doing it myself next weekend. (As long as I can get the part). Thanks much!!
Such a ridiculous thing, should be a class action lawsuit on this intentional design flaw.
Yeah it seems to happen a lot more often in cold weather. Thanks for the view!
If the lawsuit for the water pumps on Ford 3.5/3.7 V6’s didn’t fall through I doubt this one will either
@@konradjaworski3222do tell more. Had my oil cooler replaced about a year ago. Just overheated over the last week and now there’s oil in the coolant. Never had any problems before
Along with the ptu failures
I wish you would have done a video on replacing an ac evaporator with high quality camera work like this and detailed explaining. But this definitely is gonna help later this week.
Great video Travis, best step by step no bs. Thanks for the help!
No problem! Thanks for the view!
Great video! You can also change the trans oil while you have the top half off. Easier to access the fill hole in the back
Best, most comprehensive
Vid I've seen yet!!
Thanks that means a lot! Thanks for the view!
Great video !! AWESOME detail !!! I replaced mine a few years ago using your exact directions 😊 My upper radiator hose blew out, and i got a transmission overheat, car started smoking and i shut it off. I replaced the hose and all seemed ok. This morning i noticed my coolant reservoir level was almost empty, and my oil level was below minimum. Now i notice there is oil and coolant in my reservoir!! Any suggestions on what i should check first and how? Did i blow the head gasket, crack the block or crack the oil cooler again 😡 Any help would be much appreciated 😊 Thanks
I have done a bunch of 3.6 liter filter housing replacements, I must say this was an excellent video!
Thank you! I tried to make it clear and easy to watch. Thanks for the view!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. This greatly helped me in fixing mine.
Getting mine fixed right now. Still have a warranty. However this was a great video to let me know what I was dealing with. Thank you
Awesome glad I could let you see what is involved! Thanks for the view!
Just did it, it worked! I used an aluminum cooler which is a bit different in shape but I managed to fit it in. You first try to put it in place without the pipe to find out the way to fit it. Thanks!
Jeep Cherokee, 3.2 L , 150K miles. Started leaking with the first cold days. Looking at the old replaced cooler I didn't find any cracks or any other unusual things....
Yeah the cold weather always seems to kill them! Thanks for the view!
Thanks Tyler video was fantastic - saved me a few thousand.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the view!
Had it done on my Grand Caravan 3.6 a few years ago. Luckily, when I purchased the car, F & I sold me the Maximum Care lifetime svc contract.
Nice, Mopar stopped offering the lifetime maxcare warranty a year or two ago. It is a really great warranty that covers just about everything! Thanks for the view as always!
@@TylerPotter I know. And it's paid for itself a few times over. Every time I'm in for service sales tries their darnedest to put me in a new minivan. I tell them that I have the lifetime contract that's no longer available and they kinda give up. Service seems to like it though.
Amazing video and thanks for posting. Any reason why you didn't upgrade the part to the aluminum one?
Found this video by chance. This helps alot to get intake off to replace Cam position sensor
Glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
You Sir, are a f.....g legend!! Thank you so much!
Glad I could help! Thanks for the view!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Its a big help to us all.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the view!
Wow...wow....you rule bro!! I just did this to my 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk 3.2 with your awesome step by step!! No more leaks!! I did the plugs at the same time. Thanks sooo much. For some reason my idle is low now when I put it in gear and the check engine light is on. Any suggestions on what I may have done wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated 😊
The idle issue is weird have to scanned to see what the code it yet?
@@TylerPotter Sooo yeah I took the car to Autozone they offer a free code scan and the code was trouble with cylinder 5 or coil pack for injector 5. Or plugs( which i had just done while apart ) Or manifold gaskets( which i had already done also). So I picked up a new coil pack and went home to take the top manifold off again. All this to find out that I had not connected the connector for cylinder 5 !!!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Sooo i could have been done yesterday but human error got in the way. Anyway, running great now and check engine light is out. I just want to say thanks again for such an informative, easy to follow video! You saved me a bunch of money, and you even followed up with additional suggestions and texts. You are top notch !!!! 😊
Great video, made the process very easy to follow!
Thanks I try! Thanks for the view!
Awesome video. I just used it to fix my Cherokee!
Awesome! Thanks for the view!
Mine just went out and it did just got cold recently bellow 50. I got warranty though so hope to get it fixed through them.
Hey Tyler you nailed it again with another detailed & informative video!!! Thanks 👍👍
Thanks! I've done more of these than I'd like to think about!
Just finished mine today. Thank you for the video💯💪🏾✨
Got a challenging one for you! I run a fleet of Promasters, each van doing about 110k miles per year. I’m toying with the idea of swapping in a 3.2 in place of the 3.6. Why? Two reasons. Fuel economy, and cost. Junkyards get pretty close to two grand for a 14-up Journey engjne these days (the Journey is identical to the Promaster engine with the exception of the dipstick tube, motor mount, and fuel rail) and that’s for a high mileage engine. Meanwhile, the 3.2 is like crazy cheap - under $500 for a 40k or less engine.
So I have 3 main questions. 1. Are all pentastar bellhousings generic, meaning is a 3.2 likely to bolt to a 62TE? 2. Does the 3.2 have EGR? Looks like it doesnt, best I can tell. 3. Generally, a 3.2 is just an underbored 3.6. The Promaster computer will be expecting 3.6L, but it occurs to me that such a small difference in displacement will just get trimmed out. In other words, the computer may target 14.6:1 A/F, and adjust fuel to hit that, rather than get confused by the lack of airflow. I dont care if it sets a code, as long as it runs stoch.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Yes I think the bellhousings are the same, no the 3.6 or the 3.2 do not have EGR valves, and yes I believe the 3.2 was just a slightly less stroked/bored 3.6. I would think the O2 sensors would read and compensate for the slight change with fueling but I really don't know for sure. It was be a interesting project and I'm about sure you would be the only one! Thanks for the view!
I watched your other video on the housing replacement. It helped me out a lot on my 2017 JKU. My question is, Dorman now makes an aluminum one. Have you used it yet? Just wondering for the next time. Thanks so much!
I still haven't got a chance to use the metal one. At the shop they are normally under some sort of warranty and the warranty's normally only cover the factory parts for replacement. Thanks for the view!
If the oil cooler tend to go out in cold weather would an engine block heater be beneficial ? I'm guessing cold thick oil is busting the seals of the cooler
Thank you sooo much! Great information! You made it an easy task.
Glad it was helpful! I have done A LOT of them at this point lol Thanks for the view!
Hi mate, the video was really helpful. I have a 2014 Jeep Cherokee KL, and there was oil leaking from around the oil filter housing. I replaced the oil filter housing, but after 2 weeks, the oil started leaking again. Could you please advise me on what I might have done wrong?
If you got the plastic replacement instead of the metal it's easy to over tighten the bolts
How long of job is it time wise start to end ? Thanks
awesome, and clear video, thank you. Thank gawd, I only have to pay $100 dollars for my car insurance to do this job, it does not look fun for the DIY guy.
You are correct it would be a pretty decent job for the 1st timer! Thanks for the view!
excellent video. I would like to know your opinion about this engine, they say it is not durable.
I am a fan of them personally, I just bought a wrangler with the 3.6 engine. I think that says something when a mechanic is willing to buy something lol Yes we see some rocker arm and cam issues but it really isn't a bad job to replace them if it were to happen.
Hey vielen Dank. Dank diesem Video konnte ich meinen Ölkühler wechseln. 👍
Froh, dass ich helfen konnte!
this is what i suspected i took it to repair shop mechanic said it was my engine block 3rd cylinder front gasket leaking. The thing is he never took the intake manifold off. I asked him if he was sure the oil wasnt coming from the coolant. He told me that the 3.2L doesnt have that issue... But yet it does! So does that mean he is most likely lying that he found a leak in my engine cylinder gasket?
FANTASTIC video. Order the part now. I'll post back in a couple weeks and let all know how it went. My Cherokee's oil housing is leaking pretty bad all of the sudden and this will help me fix it.
Yeah that cold weather really will take them out! Thanks for the view!
Where can I order this part? Autozone doesn’t have it
To anybody who does this job and somehow opens or turns the car into accessory mode you’ll get a few codes and two permanent codes for throttle response clear your codes and those permanent codes will stay but won’t pop a check engine. Codes will say throttle response A or B open or short
The factory Mopar scan tool should be able to clear them pending they are stored and not active. Thanks for the view!
some of that pil amd coolant mix got down innsome of the holes should i flusb my coolan system nlw since theres abit of that mixture in there
Hi Tyler, Thanks for the great video detailing how to get to this defective part that Mopar should be paying for to replace. Anyways what did you do when you broke the red lock tabs off the injectors? I hope you don't have to replace them when this happens. I am going to give this a try and I know what could go wrong will with me doing this job. I know enough to realize that noting is as easy as it looks online.
The red lock tab can be left off as the tab is still on the connector that clips into the injector if that makes since. Thanks for the view!
Any videos on replacing rockers and/or cams?
No but I really need to make one on that! Thanks for the view!
If you're going to change the oil cooler, change the spark plugs too while you have the intake off and can get to the plugs.
Yes it is a good chance to change the spark plugs so you don't have to pull the intake again! Thanks for the view!
Did you do a vid on a 2015 jeep wrangler V6. I have the same exact issue but the set up is different.
Yes it is a little less detailed though so with both this video and the Cherokee video it should hopefully get it!
th-cam.com/video/VWIR_WEvxqM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this video. Will the oil cooler leak cause cylinder misfire?
No, I'm not sure I have ever seen a oil cooler cause a misfire, just coolant or oil leaks. Thanks for the view!
Great video. Lots of teardown.
Thank you!
Can we get a list of the tools you used?
What year is the jeep Cherokee in this video?
how often do you have to do this repair if u live in cold weather?
On Amazon for example there are tons of the aluminum version. Is that part screwing into aluminum or is it plastic. I think that matters what material that housing is made out of what is screwing into
The factory housing is half plastic half aluminum and bolts down the the aluminum engine block. Thanks for the view!
Very helpful video, thanks for your efforts. I opted for the aluminum oil cooler body over the plastic design.
Nice! The aluminum one in theory should be the last one you need! Thanks for the view!
After I put everything back, I have engine fault light on, I don’t know way?
Do you have to recalibrate your throttle control after your done. Because I followed your video and went great but now I'm getting the service electronic throttle control lightning bolt
Weird I have never had one have that issues after this? I guess I would make sure you connectors are all correctly plugged in and try clearing codes or unplugging the battery to clear codes and see it the issues returns.
Awesome video. Was able to complete mine in under 3 hours. Step by step was perfect. Thanks alot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the view!
Great video! Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the view!
Well, I'm done mine, now I have an overheating engine.
I wonder ,could it be a coolant air lock? I didn't have the hose pliers as seen in your video.are these 3.2lt engines prone to air locks in the cooling system? Thanks
There is a coolant bleeder screw on the top of the thermostat that will need to be opened when you fill the coolant.
After I put everything back, I have engine fault light on, why? Because bad part?
So I went ahead and did this and it looks like I probably fixed the leak. But now I have a code p0300 and some knocking and a gas smell. Any ideas?
Great video 👍🏼 thank you !!!
Thanks for watching!
What's the labor time on a job like this
Please help, where do I find the radiator drain outlet? I have been under the car for some hours I can’t find it
2014 Cherokee 3.2
When you removed the brake booster hose, was pressure lost in the brakes?
Yes you will hear a large vacuum leak sound when you pull a brake booster hose normally. Thanks for the view!
So every winter these oil coolers go out? You said in the cold they tend to leak and I’ve heard similar stories from other JK’s owners, even ones with low mileage
We normally don't see them fail again after being replaced or at least we haven't had people back into the shop after a replacement. Thanks for the view!
What would this cost average if you already have the part ? I have a 2016 trail hawk
It would vary a lot depending on the shops labor rate but the job is about 3hrs in the labor guide. Thanks for the view!
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the view!
Was this a one part or two part replacement… Just curious if the sensor already comes with the housing?? Or do i have to but the sensor separately
That is a trick question! In the past the new coolers have always came with the sensors installed but of recent we have been noticing that it seems like chance on if there will be sensors on the new cooler when we open the box at work. Now the original sensors can be swapped to the new cooler if you would like. Thanks for the view!
Awesome! Now. Which Brand did you go with? and where is the best place to purchase?
Thanks for the Video btw. Very Helpful Sir
Does anyone know the thread specs for those 5 E8 bolts that mount the oil cooler to the engine block? I stripped the threads on mine whilst man handling the damn thing and am looking to drop in a helicoil if I can figure out the thread pattern.
I can't remember off hand but I did have one with damaged threads and was able to find a longer bolt and catch a few threads at the bottom of the hole for the cooler in the block.
@@TylerPotter Interestingggg. It does feel like it's trying to catch some threads down there so I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thank you!
Please help. My engine doesn’t have the two bolts in the front for the intake. It almost looks like there is a very small nut on both that doesn’t fit any wrench?
There should be a 10mm nut on the studs on the intake unless someone has taken it apart before. Thanks for the view!
Does a bad oil cooler cause oil to end up in Coolant Reservoir?
Yes the oil cooler can cause oil and coolant to mix, we don't see it happen too often but we have had one or 2 come into the shop with that issue.
Can i chane only the cooler without the filter housing ?
You could but there are a few areas on the housing that can leak also so I would highly recommend replacement of the full assembly.
@@TylerPotter Thank you !
I have this exact same issue being worked on… How long should this repair take?
It is a few hour repair with clean up ect. Thanks for the view!
thankyou .good job
Did you drain any coolent prior to starting the repair?
No I have found with the hose pinch off pliers on that back coolant hose and then using a fluid evacuation tool to suck the coolant out of the valley no coolant gets down into the oil system. You will still need to top off the coolant after the install but not much is lost. Thanks for the view!
Just did mine in similar weather.
Yeah the cold really seems to knock them out! Thanks for the view!
Before I do this job on my '12 Chrysler Touring convertible I have been contemplating also ordering and using the aluminum Dorman OE Solutions Oil Filter Adapter 926-876 with the idea of fixing it once and never having a problem again regardless of age or vehicle miles.
I still haven't gotten the chance to install one of the Dorman housings. I would be interested to see the fit and quality.