Build your own 3D Printer: Frames and Linear Motion!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 มี.ค. 2016
- Building a RepRap-style 3D Printer without buying a full kit is still the purist's way to go - it's the cheapest and most flexible way of acquiring a 3D printer, but there are a lot of chances where stuff can go wrong. In this mini-series i'll try to cover the most important spots while Luk builds his iTopie i3!
iTopie i3 reprap.org/wiki/ITopie
Herculien github.com/eclsnowman/HercuLien and plus.google.com/communities/1...
Music is No Frills Cumbia Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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I built a corexy printer last week, it was the first major building project I've done. It was a lot harder than I expected but I learned so much and the printer I built is awesome.
Any chance you would be doing a "Tom Approved" diy 3D printer.
I mean where we can follow your build live weekly?
Maybe 10 to 15 episodes or so? That would be so awesome :)
what perfect video timing , i just started a mostly scratch/scrap build . I'm going to try and use as much recycled and salvaged parts as i can . except the print head.
Great videos man.
Hi Tom, wanna say that I really like your videos and reviews. Your descriptions of the Smoothie board actually drove me towards researching it. Now that I have one, I can do some pretty good printing, however, I really want to learn more about Volumetric Extrusion and there's so many different conflicting things I've found on how to implement it. I thought that since your starting these "how to build a printer" vids, you could cover the volumetric vs regular extrusion.
Looking forward to the next videos. Keep up the excellent work!!
Awesome series Tom, and for me awesome timing as i am looking to build one soon.
Fantastic line of videos. I hope keep up the informative posts.
Good to see you starting this series. I just got the last of my parts in to build a dual extruder i3. Unfortunately, I decided to go with 8mm ACME thread after I purchased my plastic parts. Now I need to source x-axis parts that I can fasten the ACME nut to, or modify my existing parts.
I tried building one as my final year project for my diploma and yes, it was nerve wrecking and frustrating. in the end, my group and I got it running but the material did not stick on the print bed. we're gonna make future upgrades on it for educational purposes. by the way, your guide on marlin was awesome. helped a lot
Any chance you'll be doing a video explaining the different pros and cons of various design approaches such as moving bed (Y axis/Mendel), vertically moving bed, fully stationary bed, etc.? I'm looking to rebuild my Mendel and might want to switch to a different motion setup if there are decent quality/rigidity improvements. Thanks man!
You're.... You're tempting me. I could build it for fun and sell it or keep it as a second printer xD
Hello Thomas.Want to thank you for all the input videos and tutorials you have done.
Phenominal! You are the man!
I have developed some projects around the 3D world. First I started with hephestos (with excellent results) and then (as a base in this excellent video) I chose to build the itopie.
In this way, I want to leave my testimony to this base i3, named itopie.
Firstly, it is an excellent DIY machine, very solid and with few printed components, which makes it more accessible monetarily.
Easy to manufacture / assemble and with a very simple and elegant final look.
However not everything is perfect ......
At the speed of printing, you get 80mm / s but the quality of the printing leaves a little to be desired. The ideal is 60mm / s in large parts and 40mm / s in medium-sized parts.
The worst in this frame are the vibrations!
Because it has a solid frame, all the vibrations coming from the motors go to the printed part.
There is a lot of work to eliminate the vibrations, from sponges between the frame and the table, use of dampers in the axes, slowing the printing (the lower the speed the vibrations worsens!), Etc ...I was able to eliminate the vibrations of the X and Z axes (using damper), but in Y I can not get rid of them!
If you have any tips to lower this vibration of Y ...
Again, many thanks for all the vídeos!
nice and clear presentation...
waiting for the next episode :D
Awesome idea for a series :3
Didn't know about iTopie :D seems nice
Awseome video as always there Tom. Das good ya! With that said I agree the Delta is not the easiest thing to get correctly but when you do get it to work nicely. It is both art and extremely fast. :) Love the work do!
hey Thomas great videos you put out, have learned about 3d printing from them, im about to make my own diy kit and was wondering what your opinion is of quality linear rods vs v slot
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
hey tom, you forgot to talk about one more motion system! metal extrusions and wheels on a t 2 pulley
AZUCAR...!!!! looking forward for the next episode!
Damn it!! Just today I finnished my diy 3D printer and bam, a video with tips about building the printer.
I know the feeling! Ordered my RAMPS and it's on it's way then I found his review and started having second thoughts.
+Acrimonious Mirth My printer uses Ramps, it's a great board, just have a soldering iron ready. It's not really a plug and play board. (don't forget to add jumpers under the stepper drivers to 1/16 microstepping since full steps are really just too big)
RandomTH-camr Thanks for the advice, I'm taking my soldering iron back to my student flat when I return as the board should arrive there soon! Exciting times :)
+Acrimonious Mirth by the way, the jumper configurations differs from models, look at the chip's datasheet which MS pins have to be shorted. typical ebay stepsticks (A4988) have to have all jumpers shorted to enable 1/16 stepping. Also don't forget to set 1/16 stepping in prusa calculator if you are going to use it (I think it is set by default).
+Acrimonious Mirth and good luck!
Wondering if you are going to make a series on how to build a CNC machine.
I assume most of the concepts are the same.
I have to say my delta frame is more rigid and stable compared to the original prusa i3 i had. Also i totally agree setting up a delta is a entirely different beast when setting up and configuring. Mine came with a IR sensor instead of an inductive one or the springloaded allen wrench with and endstop. I am learning more about gcode since the delta requires more knowledge than other style of printers, but i am excited and get frustrated at the smae time but i eventually get it and i leave with a sense of accomplishment.
Great video Tom!! Any updates? Maybe multi material upgrade?
Hi Thomas. I'm not sure if your going to read this but how do you feel about Solidoodle printers? They look good on paper but have you ever used one
What's your opinion on building a 3d printer in the same configuration as a cnc mill, where the bed moves in the x and y and the nozzle moves in the z? Would that have any disadvantages as far as accuracy goes?
Free market FTW! This is going to be a great series... I guess I'll build another printer!
I see you've built your delta because it's there in the background. Have you compiled enough build time yet to review deltas with the same depth of coverage as the Cartesian designs. You have done so well with the component and system reviews of the Cartesian designs that I'm anxious to see what you've learned about deltas. I find you to be a reliable and trusted source for 3d printing, and I've had my issues with my delta and I'm constantly looking for more insight. Keep up the excellent work!
You should seal all open cut edges with a 50/50 mix of water/carpenters or white glue, let dry, then lightly sand. Paint won't soak in after that. Painting the frame with a roller was interesting.
You're saying right here "In the next videos we'll dive in and look at the parts you'll need to add motion to the frame and make it an actual 3D printer" - i have been waiting for it for 2 years now.
I would like to see an in-depth discussion of different motion systems. Where different motion imprecisions could come from, for which systems the quality of which parts is more critical, the various engineering tradeoffs of the Mendel-style, vs. Ultimaker-style vs. XY cartesian with one moving motor and raising bed vs. Dual Wire Gantry vs. CoreXY, plus the discussion of why H-Bot failed.
Hey Thomas, I wonder what is the hot-end you used on Lulzbot mini? I am having some issue with the hexagon hot-end on my mini. And now considering swap it with some 1.75mm hot-end.
Very good!
I started with an i3 mega. Good and sturdy frame. Upgraded every piece except motherboard :P
You show painting the MDF frames. Make sure to paint BOTH sides at the same time or you will get warping , even on thick sheets.
I know ... I made the mistake :-)
Did you apply primer before painting? I painted my 12mm MDF 1 side each time and do not remember any warping issues...
+Gotan Nate I believe Thomas recommended to prime the wood in the video.
think of it like gluing two things together. if you apply both things with no glue, it doesn't stick. primer is the glue between paint and 90% of materials.
This isn’t a mystery. It’s hard to add enough bonding agent into paint while maintaining workability. If you want good bonding prime. Paint will carry the pigment. As for warping, MDF is much more stable than lumber and generally more than ply as well. But it can move seasonally due to humidity changes or if it gets wet. Your best bet, as mentioned, is to always treat any wood product equally on both sides. Same amount of primer, same layers of paint, varnish, etc. You want it to move equally on both sides, whatever that rate is. That’s the secret in preventing warping.
Well, All I had to do is read (I found the buyers guide on iTopie). All the rest still applies. Thanks!
Thank you for the awesome channel.
What about comparing frame and printer types in terms of the result, better prints
ok thank you, i will stick to my prusa model and invest in precision!
lol my wife has that same sweater :) awesome video man
Hello ,
I want to ask you that Can we use the Nema 17 Stepper motor with less input AMPs and volts Does it make any difference in the working of the 3D printer and one more thing what type of material do we need for the Rods of 3D printer.
Please do reply, I would be waiting for your answer
whag do you think of K8200? i am planing on making it from scrach...becouse kit is low q motors and controler is not the best and if i calculated corectly it will be cheaper tho the hustle of colecting parts....
did check out the smartrapcore printer most easy printer to build wood box version
This is a helpful video! I am designing a compact, foldable printer based on the reprap Prusa i3, parts on their way!
Acrimonious Mirth nice!
YUNG BACKPACK thanks! I designed it... Then never bothered making it. The idea was to have something easily transportable in case I moved but then I started commission work for a startup who sent me a printer anyway...
So now my main project is the Hephaestus.
I diy'd myself a corexy monster.. 350x350x450 build volume, well thats the plan when I have lengthened the extruder and z-axis motor cables! Currently around 300x300x300 :)
I've nearly finished building my second RepRap since building my first in 2011, which has been tweaked beyond recognition and been a faithful printer which has always been using the same thermocouple.
Still, nearly 6 years on, my financial status hasn't improved and the general requirement for a 3D printer mean't that my second printer is nearly finished, nearly 2 years worth
Did you see at 2:21, when you moved the bed on the lulzbot, the inductance actually spun the part cooling fan! that can't be good for the electronics.
nice video with good information! something funny I noticed, @ 2:20 you move the Y axis and because of that the fan started to move a bit from the energy created by the motor that you moved.
why or how is that funny? i don't get it.
NiceWhenEarned RudeMostlyElse When you move the bed, it spins the motor attached to it, which generates enough electricity to momentarily power the fan, to put it in layman's terms. It's amusing to engineers because it's an unintentional demonstration of basic electromagnetism principles, and shows up in an unexpected (but also kind of expected) place
Has there been any progress with the iToppie i3? Will it be in a future video?
This seems like it will be a good series, Tom. Thumbs up.
Where can we find M90 frames at? I tried eBay and no go.
+Dark Alchemist I make frames for various 3d printers look at www.byq3d.eu
PJDAutomatyka
*sigh* I am in the states. :( Going to a local shop is hideous too as a typical i3 single aluminum frame is 800-1400 USD here just depends on the shop because labor is 250-300 dollars per hour and the rest I have no idea. For wood it isn't all that much cheaper either and the thickness of Tom's MDF is awesome.
I suggest to make i3 on waterjet. It will be cheaper than milling.
PJDAutomatyka
This was on a waterjet they said as any other method is more expensive. This city is very expensive for anything.
I am just bringing up the prices of the i3 because I know the prices but I may just skip all of this and try and find a good non moving Y based machine because with a non moving Y the bed can stay truer and way less issues (all of my issues are bed related and the moving Y bed).
Great video. I'm trying to use a i3 design without linear rails(changing it to work without them).
Adam Cavender Rack and pinion with abec 9 bearings(like in skateboards/heavy machinery). The idea requires a 3d printer to make. Because I had a 3d printer(don't need another) I decided to use the parts for a cnc design.
Very useful video for a noob.
Thanks
I like this I want to do a custom printer at some point
good job .how can I get the printed parts do you have it in dwg file .thank you .
Thank You Thomas!
I have been considering how best to enter the 3D printer arena. Your video series is exactly what I needed and where I plan to start. There are a couple of areas that would truly help a noob like myself the first being specifications. Additional detail the spec's would be appreciated. The other being sourcing If you can be as specific as possible with respect to where to order items I would appreciate the help. These two things came up when I tried to order the iTopie I3 but found no way to order it nor the thickness of the MDF used.
Really looking forward to the series and getting the benifit of your experence on this area. It will really help me and others with the things you mentioned value, quality & understanding.
Thanks, Steve
I did get a 3D printer kit but now I do want to make my own 3D printer from my Anet A8 I have. :)
It is the first thing I thought about doing I just know it will take awhile to print one up. xD
awesome!
You shouldn't use chrome plated rods, as their surface is too smooth. Also the thin chrome plating can be damaged by the ball bearings.
Instead use hardened and precicision ground rods made of 1.1213 (CF53) Steel.
Will you be covering the CNC, and laser cutter options once you have done the printer bit? Go on, you know you want to! The laser will even give whiffs of smoke without it being the electronics going tit's up, which is how I usually make smoke indoors!!
+Thomas Sanladerer Id love to build a short, but long and wide 2020 "I3 ish" laser cutter to make 3D printer parts. Don't have a maker space around me (or haven't found one), and all the shops around Chicago want $$$ to cut plywood or plexiglass, so a DIY cutter to do these would be GREAT!!!
The MakerSpace here won't allow acrylic in their laser cutter.
I am currently in the process of building an over sized Lulzbot. Printed all the plastic parts on my ORDbot, alum frame from Misumi and my linear rails I got from aliexpress. Mine is going to have a 350 x 350 print bed for now but has room for a 400x400. Originally I was going to make it the standard size but I type-oed on my Misumi order and instead of getting my frame in 500mm sections I got them in 600mm sections. OOPS, oh well roll with it and make it bigger!
If I build my custom 3D printer, let say 500mm x 500mm x 500mm, can I use for example Anet A8 main board to control my step motors, my custom extruder? I can program my slicer Cura for larger bed, no problem. But again, what about main board? Do I need to reprogram something in the board? If I go for larger step motors, can I still use the Anet A8 board to control them?
no mention of corexy or hbot ? theres so many variants of those around currently.
i have a anet a8 can i use it to make a 24x24x6'foot printer i know ill need new rods
Some suggestions for sites with drawings to build the printer would be great.
+James Sinnott reprap.org
And more precisely for this machine reprap.org/wiki/ITopie_Build_Manual
ate there any cad files for a frame that can be milled on a cnc
I disagree on the material point. I use PLA for all my parts on my printer and I haven't had any issues, even around the hotend. Of course, I didn't really have the option of printing ABS until recently anyway.
FWIW, my printer is the Eustathios, which is what the Herculien was derived from. You should build one and review it!
Awesome
Where can you buy Hiwin linear rails?
is there any where i can dl a regular printer print out so i can make a transfer to mark the wood
+Michael D you have links here to everything you need: reprap.org/wiki/ITopie
Sir can u pls give me the plans for the frame pls
there is many i3 frames on the market, i've made mine 3d printer with "Steel MM Large" one from MoebyusMachines. It has many hi-end features and all the printed parts are open source on Github
THANK YOU I LOOKING TO BUILDING A PRINTER BUT ALL I GOT TILL NOW IS 2014 I WANT SOME THING WITH FRESH TECH/INFO like your vids
Have you got the plans??? tks
from where can i buy that frame
Bleh... I keep getting bent rods and lead screws. It's such a pain finding metric parts in the US unfortunately, too. On the bright side, I'm almost done painting my 2020 aluminum extrusions.
I was hoping to make an idex printer
I have had nothing but issues for 2 years now with my self built I3 Rework. I just repurchased the MK2B and I am waiting on it but if it doesn't fix the last issue I am done I will just buy a Wanhao I3 Duplicator and call it a day (keeping all of my parts for a future project of course). 1000's of hours tweaking and less than 1kg of printing.
That sucks, I got a sunhokey prusa i3 a few months ago. After months of tweaking and upgrading the hot end it finally works reliable.
Tommie ?
Yep, after all of my mods to help it and having to replace the frame it all boils down to the bed. After really looking at the Wanhao that is not for me. I know I want a printer where the bed doesn't move but after 2 years of hell with this printer and a lack of getting anything printed beyond about 1kg of parts I question if this is really worth it. A total boondoggle and I am not stupid nor were the parts purchased cheaply (try 22 dollars a piece Mitsumi smooth rods with the double chrome on them). I could have purchased 3 Wanhao i3s with what I have spent but I have learned a tremendous amount too in what not to do. I am surprised we still see a moving bed (either up/down or front/back motion) when a stationary bed (think a Delta like printer) is one of the biggest reasons a Delta print is so beautiful. It can be done with a Cartesian printer too but due to costs it isn't done.
***** well Cartesian printers are actually really easy to calibrate and maintain. Delta printers are really a pain in the *** to troubleshoot and fix. The moving bed itself isn't a bad thing. You just need a dead flat bed. And about the knowledge thats so true. I learned so much in the months that I own my 3D printer. Things like mechanics, thermodynamics and ofcourse electronics.
Tommie ?
Yep, the setup and calibration of a delta printer is indeed a PITA but the moving bed is bad. It causes artifacts (known as ringing) and on a very tall print can shake it loose or just be pulled over due to the action of printing. It is a known bad thing but is the cheapest way to go with Prusa model of the Y action the absolutely worst and cheapest to design and build. I have designed a printer that has no moving bed as the head moves up not the bed (this means the bed can be rock solid and never ever budge so no more having to readjust Z) and it uses wheels instead of linear bearings and smooth rods but the price is absolutely hideous as it takes 30-40 wheels (I forget exactly how many now) and at 6 a piece you can see why I never built it though it would be rock solid and hardly ever, if ever, need to be readjusted/releveled.
Sounds cool and all but without mentioning anything about controller boards and what sort of software to install on them kinda makes it just a bunch of unusable hardware doesnt it .
Wo bekommt man am besten hierzulande vernünftige Stangen her ? Hab eine der China Stangen von mir bereits mit einer lokalen eBay Stange ersetzt weil sie krumm war und ich sie nicht gerade bekommen hab.
+Fred Flügge
Nimm gehärtete und geschliffene Wellen aus Cf53. Zb. von Pietrzak: www.ebay.de/itm/Prazisionswelle-8-mm-100-990mm-wahlbar-17-m-Tol-h6-geschliffen-cf53-1507-/390374537633
Greetings, got a link to where i can buy that MDF Frame? i once bought a kit with an acrylic Frame that i want to switch to something more sturdy. and i am not to happy about whit i can find at ebay, at least not in Germany
Where could I get a kit
i had issues with the motor going the opposite way of the limit switch of the Y axis. using marlin software.
The simplest fix I've read for that is to reverse the plug for that motor at the drive board
Hello
Please need a graphic with measurements on AutoCAD full file drawings
I was looking for it myself
Nice idea for a video series. Looking forward for more videos.
I'm currently trying to plan and source all the parts for a Wilson-Style RepRap (reprap.org/wiki/Category:Wilson), basically similar to an i3-frame, but built with aluminium extrusions.
Hey, i've been trying to make a 30$ 3d printer but i've had no success with the firmware, teacup in my case, do you have any suggestions on firmware that can fit in an arduino nano 328p ?
I've had many problems, first the teacup firmware didn't start, after fixing that it didn't build, after fixing that it won't upload the build ! arrrrgh **pulls hair out** I'd love to bring my project to daylight and make an instructable on the world's first 30$ ( all parts plus some filament included in the cost of materials ) DIY ( slow, small but better than nothing ) 3d printer but the firmware is driving me nuts.
I've thought of that too, too bad teacup doesn't work as it seems to be a very good bit of firmware and only takes up about 62% of the 328p flash memory.
Can I use cardboard
in the early day of home 3d printing, you need a 3d printer to make a 3d printer, with out a 3d printer it hard to build a 3d printer if you have not got a 3d printer
I think for first time this frame is made from pvc panel because I see a white frame in the thumbnail
I had the "Hi I'm tom" musically ad before this and he said "Hi I'm tom" IM WEAK
Does anyone sell the frame for this printer your making.
Well i don't. But I made my version - not the best but works really well. You can find it on thingiverse or ubox.j-breeze.com. 👍
Thanks for the info.
+Thomas Sanladerer Have you ever considered reviewing a MakerFarm i3v? I and many other owners of them swear by them. The owner, Colin is extremely supportive and helpful. Plus the printers themselves are extremely well engineered & thought out. The prices are great too. You can get a full 300x300x300mm, (12inch) build volume for $677. :)
Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
+Stephen Germiller At that build volume, or greater, I wouldn't touch anything that wasn't enclosed. I do most ABS though.
+Dark Alchemist I own one and can say that you would be surprised! :) I've even brought it outside in near freezing weather and it actually worked!
Stephen Germiller
A 300mm long ABS print would surely lift or it would be 275mm long and 25mm of brim. ABS just loves to lift and warp and the colder the room, or even outside, I would have to see that. :)
+Dark Alchemist Yes ABS is always harder to use than PLA or PETG. This was for Halloween. I was printing /thing:488574 in groups of 9 at a time for trick-or-treaters all night. This was in PLA for the first 2 groups then had to switch to PET+ as I was running out of my small sample of PLA. Each print was about 2 inches wide/deep/tall.
Stephen Germiller
PLA loves cool rooms and after the first layer switch to a bed temp right below the Tg of PLA and everything just works. ABS like to pull itself apart under the exact same circumstances.
Where can these frames be bought?
+Blueghost136 Take the files on the Wiki and find the FabLab nearest you. They will help you build it yourself ;)
reprap.org/wiki/ITopie_Build_Manual
+Sébastien Mischler (skarab) Some of us don't have a FabLab nearby. :(
Then look on eBay;) but it is never my first answer ;)
Im only concerned with software part.
Well t-nut isnt that expensive. I think if you build your own printer you buy the most parts in china an in china 100 t-nuts cost around 2€
I have a hobbyking replicator (nobody should buy that) and I'm going to change the extruder. I have been thinking of buying the e3d v6. Is it a bad idea to buy those ebay fakes, or is the real deal worth it's price. If I can get 80% of the functionality I'd rather save the money.
I have a clone on my prusa i3 and I like it
+Jacob Sokolove Great to know! Has it had any weird blockage problems or something similar?
+Mikko Tervala I had a clone on my sunhokey prusa i3... It sucked. So many errors in the print and blockages. I upgraded to a real e3d v6 and it works flawlessly now.
+Tommie ? from what I understand, it's a hit or miss. sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you get a bad one. personally, it's a $20 risk I'm willing to take. I've had two of them and both work wonderfully
+Tommie ? from what I understand, it's a hit or miss. sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you get a bad one. personally, it's a $20 risk I'm willing to take. I've had two of them and both work wonderfully
next video?
I’ve seen it all , we printed a 3D printer
Delta printers are stupid. half or more of the printers height is unusable for working space as it's just due to mechanical limitations, and no added benefits.
A regular cartesian printer is more compact and only needs ~15% of the height/width due to mechanical limitations.
corexy is current state of the art
and rods+linear bearings are old and tired. you have a solid frame, use it. stop wasting space and ride the rails!
build a 3D printed fame 3D printer
Be a proper hipster, go for a rotary base!
Z axis is the rudest one...
O
I am sick of BS building materials for 3dprinters... grow up and use proper design solutions