I’ve always envisioned making one 800x800mm, I drew up the plans in CAD and everything, and now I’m able to financially support the project, and this video reminded me and encouraged me, I’ll be ordering the parts soon, hopefully I can make it work as good as yours looks it works
I'm thousands of miles away from my 3D printer right now since I'm currently deployed in Kuwait, but your videos are making want to go back for bigger, better designs and prints! Love your work! So inspiring! Also your happiness is contagious! Love from Puerto Rico🇵🇷
For a bed this size it might make sense to move the gantry back and forth instead of the bed. That mirror has to weigh a zillion pounds (that’s about half a zillion kilos)!
exactly what I was thinking, that mirror + the weight of the print, is massive. tahts a lot of weight moving around especially on belts, would have been better having the mirror on z with a couple of ball screws, and nozzle on x and y. That's what I'm currently building but 400x400 although will take a while, buying a couple of things a month. Titan aqua is expensive. also cant decide what board at the moment, do love the duets interface over marlin, but they are expensive.
I'd recommend adding a support across the middle of the bottom of the mirror. I feel like that much unsupported glass could cause the mirror to bend slightly and could result in an uneven surface. Love the design though!!!
Forget the drilling, the two bits I don't like are the tapping and filing. He needs to get the tap squarer to the hole to ensure the threads come out square to the end. As for filing, he needs to lift on the back stroke to get a flatter surface
WOAH! Now I must build that 19" 3D printer that had been bouncing around in my brain for over a year ... no more excuses! Excellent video as always. Thank you for sharing! Cheers! JM
I'm so proud of your, Ivan. Since I started watching you building a, for then "giant" 3D printer, that took you more than a month in your tiny compacted workbench. Now you're a grown maker and you do incredible things, but the quality is always been supreme. Thanks for your happiness and the love you put in your work and that you send us across the screen
This is so well documented and it’s like everything you need to make it is right in front of you, except I personally could not get those drilling skills overnight lol. Awesome content!
FDM printer time is dependent on volume, which is third power of printed object height (=not really scalable). Resin printers on the other hand take time proportional only to object height itself (=lineary scalable)... The printing time of "Radon transform 3D printers" is (theoreticaly) not related to the object size at all (=very scalable). So i guess for very big prints we will need to change the technology (as long as we're not willing to go with huge nozzles, eg. like they did in concrete casting 3D printers)
@@harviecz large volume SLA machines have existed for quite a long time, I've personally had some entire gearbox casings SLA printed... The issue isn't scalability, the issue is material properties - SLA resins produce nice smooth surfaces but they're incredibly brittle and have terrible thermal properties. FDM carries a fairly huge advantage in the diverse range of materials that can be printed.
@Ivan Miranda every time my friends or someone online gets spooled up about the 555mm-cubed printer I'm planning, and how I should use rails, and make it corexy, etc... I'm SO thankful that you made this beast a fairly simple bed-slinger. I almost get talked into the additional expense and complexity of adding linear rails, and switching to corexy kinematics, and then I think of this huge, perfectly capable printer and smile. It earned you another Patreon sub. Thanks!
The idea of a large 3d Printer is a dream of mine. Seeing this makes it look possible but it would be great to see someone do a step by step guide on making this…. It would also be nice to see some of your followers questions answered…. Just a thought.
For a printer this size you need to buy spools of red PLA in the multi kilometer length size. You know, spools about as big as the power company uses for their transmission line cables. Can't wait to see your spool holder.
Using t-slot compatible brackets would have been much stronger and easier to square up and make adjustments. And probably would have only added a few dollars to the build.
You look ... "uncontrollable man". I don't see that! I see your work! AWESOME !!!! Clear, details enough and wow - I can make my own too after seeing your video, bor ! Great job!
You might want to put a cross-brace in the middle of your "mirror-carrier" so it wouldn't bow in the middle over time. Maybe also upgrade the belts to 9 or 12mm. The bed weights a lot probably and you've done well by using 2 motors to drive it. However, the belts (given they are the standard 6mm belts) will stretch a lot faster by slinging that weight :P So bigger belts can resist the higher torque, resulting in less slack over time, and better prints! Nice job however :D Already looking forward to the next 5 videos!
Well, this earned a subscription. Totally not sure about this design though. The largest heaviest part of the printer is doing a large part of the work and I think that is going to cause you big problems. Personally I would have gone for a large scale delta or a coreXY since both of those regimes have the lightest part doing most of the work. I know a Delta is funky and hard for a lot of people to get their heads around but the upsides here is that you can make the bed out of anything and it's not a factor. making the towers super rigid is also not an issue since they also don't move. That just leaves the actuators and carbon fiber tube is super cheap now. You could run the whole thing with standard belts and Nema 17 motors since your entire focus is making the print head as light as possible. Code is easily available to run them and the only potential downside is you are printing on a circle instead of a square. So I've got my popcorn, let the fun begin.
@@ivanmirandawastaken will there be a full instruction manual on how to cut the profiles and assemble the whole thing in the end? this would be soo great ofcourse i would pay for it KR
This is a dream? Ooohhh my.... I want one that in my room!!! Congrats for this job! Success and waiting for the next video to see this beauty melting plastic
Seems like a decent design, it will probably work fine. A few thoughts though: add some kind of wooden plank under your mirror: it will not prevent much from sagging, but it will help to protect the mirror in case you jam the extruder into it, which can happen and did happen to me on my giant printer, especially during calibration. Better add a few more aluminum profiles under it too, on such big surfaces you can get pretty big sagging, like over 2 millimeters, which obviously doesn't help with first layer adhesion. Other than this I'm pretty sure it will work fine, nothing wrong with it :) Even if the Z axis looks flimsy, I bet it will not be an issue, most people put too much efforts in frame rigidity while it actually doesn't matter all that much, except for very high speed printing. Giant printers do work very well, much better than most people would guess, and that teaches a lot about what actually is important to get good printing results on a 3D printer. Good luck on the rest of your build!
@@CS-ec7gl oh yeah I did they have been sitting in my fusion account all this time somehow I never saw these comments asking for them how would you like them sent to you?
@@ivanmirandawastaken You don't actually know how much this printer cost you so far in euros? Or did you sacrifice your screwdriver for it (as you are using an actual hammer ;-P)?
My kit 3d printer was $2.500 .UK brand hopless still struggling to get it working .I shood of got u to bild me a 3d printer lol....this is lookn cool an strong frame so fare .bed wait an bed plate. Hope can hold the wait .luv to cee next vid adding all the electrics n printer head .is the printer head move down to print plate or does print plate move up n down to printer head ..
cool - for more than one year i have all the parts for a 800 800 800 Printer "flying" around - this video gives me the kick in the a* to start :) Thank you. Can't wait seeing you finishing an printig :) be blessed and good luck
Absolutely. I think there's probably going to be an upgrade video or two down the line after that problem comes up. Probably the easiest option would be a diagonal brace to support the center of the bed and restrict sagging to a few cm from the corners that aren't over the brace bar.
William Shreckengost I thought he would have gone higher capacity but the sagging might be a minor issue. I was wondering if the spring loaded balance technique will get affected on this with the larger weight and center of gravity shift (as mentioned).
@MichaelKingsfordGray You're right, I was stuck on the bed, instead of the whole Y carriage. It's definitely beyond the means of the kind of springs that'd normally get that job, but lock nuts might be able to do the job well enough. (Though it's definitely a speed cap either way.) If not, it could be down to a fixed bed mount, which is going to take a hobbyist's fortune in measurement tools to set, and linear rails instead of V-rollers to take out some of the wobble potential. Not that I wasn't already convinced, but I'm seeing another good reason to go CoreXY at this scale.
if anybody needs stupid coments, its Andreas Klostermann ... I have 5 printers ENDER 3, they are for me as working horses with nonstop printing .. BUT for lot of my projects is not to enought bed with size 330x330 ... so I am bulding CUBE printers by myself ... now I am working on printer for printing BIG SCALE RC TANKS with 900x350x250mm dimensions ... in building progress is next printer with dual printing head that print 2x dimension in X axis in same time ... dimensions 2x 400x300x250mm ... one driver to X axis with 2 motors (1 LEFT / 1 RIGHT) no needs tension for belt on X axis ... one driver for 2 extruder motors ... note: about HEATBED ... I am not using heatbeds on all my printers, heatbeds are DISABLED and wires are out from beds, I ma printing on cold borosilicate 4mm glass sheets only with spray adhezion tool (3DLak) and no problems printing everythink what I want/need ... I am printing PLA, ASA275 and sometimes PETG ... no ABS, TPU etc. materials ... and for BIG bed sizes bigger than 330x330 is 0.6 nozzle right choice ... same layer with bigger nozzle = same result with shorter printing time about 20% ... with same quality so thats is reaction to your comment ... who can build printer as DIY project at home, never build 220x220x220 ... for this size is ENDER 3 straight to buy from Aliexpress ...
congratulation on building such a awesome printer! I have question - where are the measurements for installing Z frame i.e. how much space to from back/front of frame etc.? I am in middle of building one and need to understand measurement for this printer. waiting for reply, thanks :) also do you happen to have the bill of materials (BOM)?
i might be missing the big picture here (no pun intended)... why does someone need a huge printer like that? i mean, what is bigger than a tank that needs huge parts?
I think he wants to use it to print less parts so that he can leave the printer alone for longer without having to clear the bed and starting a new print
I'm hoping it is for bigger or more tank parts. If he can make two bogies wheels for suspension instead of one he just cut production time in half. Plus I'm also curios on what he is going to do with the upper half of that chassis. I'll just wait for the upcoming videos!
This is an interesting build. I've been debating building my own large-form printer. I'm curious how far you can scale this without it causing warping/weight issues? Also, I've always wondered why nobody ever seems to use linear rails for these builds?
I read the title and thought "Who needs such big printers"? Most people are better served with multiple smaller printers. Unless you want to build tanks from PLA...
Amazing video! Thanks for sharing! However, I wonder if, for such a huge and impressive printer like this one, wouldn't it be better to use a Core XY instead? Additionally, what kind of mirror glass are you using? Regular? Is the surface too brittle? I love your videos! Please keep it up! :)
Easier/cheaper to replicate, no. Easier to achieve a better, more consistent print quality, yes. However, knowing who is building this monstrosity and what it's going to be used for this should work just fine. Also he's going to be using at least a 1mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm standard nozzle so quality shouldn't be too much of a concern.
@@ivanmirandawastaken you could mount the bed into 4 threaded rods or something like that (would give you electronic leveling by default), and use that as your Z axis, the whole bed slowly moves down with gravity. Then, the hotend is mounted in a way that one axis is fixed to the chassis of the 3D printer (say Y) and the other (X axis) rides on top of the other one. The hotend would be mounted to the latter axis. This is (to me, personal opinion) a tad harder but way more reliable. It will help reduce ghosting and increase print speed and acceleration, which in a bed as massive as that one are quite important factors. This design, though, will work just fine, and it comes with a big advantage; it's already done.
CoreXY would mean you need to move this humongous printbed up and down, perfectly level. Or you put the hotend on a Z axis, which I haven't seen that often, either...
Very nice build Ivan! Personally I would have combined the z-motor mounts with some 3D printed angles to reduce movement of the x-axis gantry. Looking forward to the next part!
The motors are flush with both rails' the brackets are just to avoid axial rotation and YX traslation. There's almost no work done by the mounts on that configuration (Check a CR10 if you can)
@@ivanmirandawastaken I was thinking more about "locking" the uprights in relation to the base frame. I am sure the brackets are fine for attaching the steppermotor. (The CR-10 does actually have a t-plate supporting the uprights)
I'm always impressed with your skill as a designer. I do agree with the others who have concerns with the weight of the bed. However, this looks like a very specialized printer. You will need to print slow but with a large head it should still out perform a smaller unit making smaller parts that need to be assembled. A print failure with this thing will potentially be very bad though. I wouldn't worry with the bed adjusters. Get it close and lock it in place. With a bed that large you will need a BL Touch anyway.
He'll probably add a capacitive probe later. Adding auto bed leveling is super easy but you gotta have your x carriage loaded up with all your gear first
Shout out to all who watched all 33 episodes of Ivan's first big 3D printer. Ivan, It's amazing not only to watch you building these things but to see your skills improve over time.
I think you are single handedly keeping the manufaturers of that red filament in business. You must go through a shed-load of that stuff (mostly for your other stuff) on a weekly basis! Good work though! :)
Like, fav y subs. Just wondering how I’ll print those red parts before having the 3D printer hahah ;) Two questions: how much does it cost? and what about the software?
I’ve always envisioned making one 800x800mm, I drew up the plans in CAD and everything, and now I’m able to financially support the project, and this video reminded me and encouraged me, I’ll be ordering the parts soon, hopefully I can make it work as good as yours looks it works
How did the project go?
Would also love to know!
How much is it to build it?
me tooo, but I'm just school student so won't be able to support it financially though
@@varunahlawat9013 same I’m building a 10 ft rocket and submarine so a big printer would be useful
I'm thousands of miles away from my 3D printer right now since I'm currently deployed in Kuwait, but your videos are making want to go back for bigger, better designs and prints! Love your work! So inspiring! Also your happiness is contagious! Love from Puerto Rico🇵🇷
For a bed this size it might make sense to move the gantry back and forth instead of the bed.
That mirror has to weigh a zillion pounds (that’s about half a zillion kilos)!
"Make sense" is an extremely ambiguous term. The mirror weighs a zillion pounds though, you nailed it.
exactly what I was thinking, that mirror + the weight of the print, is massive. tahts a lot of weight moving around especially on belts, would have been better having the mirror on z with a couple of ball screws, and nozzle on x and y. That's what I'm currently building but 400x400 although will take a while, buying a couple of things a month. Titan aqua is expensive. also cant decide what board at the moment, do love the duets interface over marlin, but they are expensive.
@@GlaucusBlue For board options Id look into the SKR v1.3 and potentially running klipper off a rpi with it
I also think he needs bigger stepper motors for the y carriage to achieve reasonable printing speed
it wont be fast thats for sure but if hes is printing with a 1 mm (or even more) thats not as bad
Sir id just like to tell u ur my absolute favorite person on earth
I'd recommend adding a support across the middle of the bottom of the mirror. I feel like that much unsupported glass could cause the mirror to bend slightly and could result in an uneven surface. Love the design though!!!
You know this guy is a pro, when he can drill perfectly straight holes with a hand drill. Way too advanced for me lol.
Drill press
No, it means the opposite. An experienced amateur, but an amateur nonetheless.
Forget the drilling, the two bits I don't like are the tapping and filing. He needs to get the tap squarer to the hole to ensure the threads come out square to the end.
As for filing, he needs to lift on the back stroke to get a flatter surface
yeah you just cant drill square without press
WOAH! Now I must build that 19" 3D printer that had been bouncing around in my brain for over a year ... no more excuses! Excellent video as always. Thank you for sharing! Cheers! JM
Go go go!
I'm so proud of your, Ivan. Since I started watching you building a, for then "giant" 3D printer, that took you more than a month in your tiny compacted workbench. Now you're a grown maker and you do incredible things, but the quality is always been supreme. Thanks for your happiness and the love you put in your work and that you send us across the screen
That was really wholesome
The best part about this design is that it can be scaled up or down fairly easily once it’s finished
Your laugh at 9:32 says it all! Love this project and it is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for sharing!
Hands down one of my favorite channels!
Your projects are always really awesome and your enthusiasm makes it that much more fun!!
Wonderful, can not wait to see how it works.
This is so well documented and it’s like everything you need to make it is right in front of you, except I personally could not get those drilling skills overnight lol. Awesome content!
You're a brilliant man and engineer, your videos only increase in quality and you inspire thousands, myself included. Thank you.
You definitely need an E3D Supervolcano for this.
In the mail
FDM printer time is dependent on volume, which is third power of printed object height (=not really scalable). Resin printers on the other hand take time proportional only to object height itself (=lineary scalable)... The printing time of "Radon transform 3D printers" is (theoreticaly) not related to the object size at all (=very scalable). So i guess for very big prints we will need to change the technology (as long as we're not willing to go with huge nozzles, eg. like they did in concrete casting 3D printers)
@@harviecz large volume SLA machines have existed for quite a long time, I've personally had some entire gearbox casings SLA printed... The issue isn't scalability, the issue is material properties - SLA resins produce nice smooth surfaces but they're incredibly brittle and have terrible thermal properties. FDM carries a fairly huge advantage in the diverse range of materials that can be printed.
Ivan Miranda how do I get ahold of the fusion files for this?
Yes
@Ivan Miranda every time my friends or someone online gets spooled up about the 555mm-cubed printer I'm planning, and how I should use rails, and make it corexy, etc... I'm SO thankful that you made this beast a fairly simple bed-slinger. I almost get talked into the additional expense and complexity of adding linear rails, and switching to corexy kinematics, and then I think of this huge, perfectly capable printer and smile. It earned you another Patreon sub. Thanks!
Yes!! Glad to read that! Thanks!
That looks alright Ivan, look forward in seeing how it serves you over time.
I seen a lot of big printers made I still think yours is the best. I always wanted to print an adult size big wheel.
You sir are a mad man!
The idea of a large 3d Printer is a dream of mine. Seeing this makes it look possible but it would be great to see someone do a step by step guide on making this…. It would also be nice to see some of your followers questions answered…. Just a thought.
Awesome video. This printer is looking really sturdy even though it's so large. It'll be really useful for all your big projects.
I hope so yes. Thanks!
time to print the ultimate benchy!
For a printer this size you need to buy spools of red PLA in the multi kilometer length size. You know, spools about as big as the power company uses for their transmission line cables. Can't wait to see your spool holder.
Curious as to why you drilled through the extrusion instead of using T nuts and angle brackets for the frame.
That's what I was thinking and most likely why the bottom frame was flimsy and needed a bunch of extra material to strengthen it.
much better alignment and rigidity in a square frame that way
@@cda32 depends a lot on how they cut the profile
Using t-slot compatible brackets would have been much stronger and easier to square up and make adjustments. And probably would have only added a few dollars to the build.
T-nuts are a royal pain in the tookus..
You look ... "uncontrollable man". I don't see that! I see your work! AWESOME !!!! Clear, details enough and wow - I can make my own too after seeing your video, bor !
Great job!
NICE!!! looks like a CR 10000 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍😍😍
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and creativity.
everyday i turn on my computer praying the part 2 will be out
me and you both brother.
Came back today to look.
@@jake360flip same
Your original large printer build is what brought me to your channel. Seems nostalgic to see you build another one!
You might want to put a cross-brace in the middle of your "mirror-carrier" so it wouldn't bow in the middle over time. Maybe also upgrade the belts to 9 or 12mm. The bed weights a lot probably and you've done well by using 2 motors to drive it. However, the belts (given they are the standard 6mm belts) will stretch a lot faster by slinging that weight :P So bigger belts can resist the higher torque, resulting in less slack over time, and better prints! Nice job however :D Already looking forward to the next 5 videos!
You Sir. are a mad Genius and my new favorite TH-cam Channel.
Looking great!! Cant wait to see some massive parts!
You will! Thanks!
Well, this earned a subscription. Totally not sure about this design though. The largest heaviest part of the printer is doing a large part of the work and I think that is going to cause you big problems. Personally I would have gone for a large scale delta or a coreXY since both of those regimes have the lightest part doing most of the work. I know a Delta is funky and hard for a lot of people to get their heads around but the upsides here is that you can make the bed out of anything and it's not a factor. making the towers super rigid is also not an issue since they also don't move. That just leaves the actuators and carbon fiber tube is super cheap now. You could run the whole thing with standard belts and Nema 17 motors since your entire focus is making the print head as light as possible. Code is easily available to run them and the only potential downside is you are printing on a circle instead of a square. So I've got my popcorn, let the fun begin.
Is this in preparation for a plane that you can fit in and fly. Great video. 🤣🤣
😂😂 thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken ok, once the tank is done, sounds like a new multi-year plane project is in order.
Great video+explanation+presentation! Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your knowledge! Well done mate - NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Love this design and build as usuall cant wait to see the finished job
Thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken will there be a full instruction manual on how to cut the profiles and assemble the whole thing in the end?
this would be soo great ofcourse i would pay for it
KR
I really want to build one of these now
Wait for me to finish first and then you can make all the flying machines you want😉
Ivan Miranda lets do it!
not gonna lie, i cried a little when i saw you cut the threads :D
Ivan, you are insane...insanely awesome build!
This is a dream? Ooohhh my.... I want one that in my room!!! Congrats for this job! Success and waiting for the next video to see this beauty melting plastic
Thanks!
Seems like a decent design, it will probably work fine. A few thoughts though: add some kind of wooden plank under your mirror: it will not prevent much from sagging, but it will help to protect the mirror in case you jam the extruder into it, which can happen and did happen to me on my giant printer, especially during calibration. Better add a few more aluminum profiles under it too, on such big surfaces you can get pretty big sagging, like over 2 millimeters, which obviously doesn't help with first layer adhesion. Other than this I'm pretty sure it will work fine, nothing wrong with it :) Even if the Z axis looks flimsy, I bet it will not be an issue, most people put too much efforts in frame rigidity while it actually doesn't matter all that much, except for very high speed printing. Giant printers do work very well, much better than most people would guess, and that teaches a lot about what actually is important to get good printing results on a 3D printer. Good luck on the rest of your build!
Dude, you are insane :)
Making such an intricate instrument from scratch is very impressive
You're definitely in the top ten TH-cam creators!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙌
That looks amazing!!
Thanks!
Impresionante impresora Ivan un gran trabajo y el tanque una pasada enhorabuena gracias por compartirlo
I am definitely downloading the fusion files for this could come in handy someday
Jebidiah_Crumps where do you find the fusion files for this?
Following
Did you download them? The link seems broken at this point? Would you be willing to send me a copy?
@@CS-ec7gl oh yeah I did they have been sitting in my fusion account all this time somehow I never saw these comments asking for them how would you like them sent to you?
now that is not only cool but showing your skills as a true builder/engineer! good for you.
Hey.
Can you write all the parts you used for this printer and the installation step by step? Love my friend 😘
Looks Great Cant Wait To See It Print.
Me either!
@@ivanmirandawastakenyou can make a giant tank faster with this
This printer will forever be known as the "Crazy Ivan" and nothing can sway me from this point of view.
Great video, Ivan! One of my all time favs!
Thanks!
im so going to make one of theses
Wait for me to finish it...
Eres un crack,me alegra q haya gente como tú compartiendo conocimiento,espero q también tengas un canal en español para los no bilingües.un saludo
How much will / has this project cost? It seems like it could be cheaper than a store bought printer of this size, right?
Should be, I guess so, yes
@@ivanmirandawastaken You don't actually know how much this printer cost you so far in euros? Or did you sacrifice your screwdriver for it (as you are using an actual hammer ;-P)?
My kit 3d printer was $2.500 .UK brand hopless still struggling to get it working .I shood of got u to bild me a 3d printer lol....this is lookn cool an strong frame so fare .bed wait an bed plate. Hope can hold the wait .luv to cee next vid adding all the electrics n printer head .is the printer head move down to print plate or does print plate move up n down to printer head ..
From other posts it seems like he’s not finished and parts are still coming so things can still change. Also 3d printers have a huge price range.
Riley Fenley yeah, seems like he’s being overly vague and short with his responses...
cool - for more than one year i have all the parts for a 800 800 800 Printer "flying" around - this video gives me the kick in the a* to start :) Thank you. Can't wait seeing you finishing an printig :) be blessed and good luck
On the printing bed leveling: with a larger print would the weight of the print cause it to go off level?
Absolutely. I think there's probably going to be an upgrade video or two down the line after that problem comes up. Probably the easiest option would be a diagonal brace to support the center of the bed and restrict sagging to a few cm from the corners that aren't over the brace bar.
William Shreckengost I thought he would have gone higher capacity but the sagging might be a minor issue. I was wondering if the spring loaded balance technique will get affected on this with the larger weight and center of gravity shift (as mentioned).
@MichaelKingsfordGray You're right, I was stuck on the bed, instead of the whole Y carriage. It's definitely beyond the means of the kind of springs that'd normally get that job, but lock nuts might be able to do the job well enough. (Though it's definitely a speed cap either way.) If not, it could be down to a fixed bed mount, which is going to take a hobbyist's fortune in measurement tools to set, and linear rails instead of V-rollers to take out some of the wobble potential. Not that I wasn't already convinced, but I'm seeing another good reason to go CoreXY at this scale.
Beautiful job there ! Thank you for sharing ... 🇬🇧
If anybody actually needs a stupid-size-printer, it's Ivan Miranda!
if anybody needs stupid coments, its Andreas Klostermann ... I have 5 printers ENDER 3, they are for me as working horses with nonstop printing .. BUT for lot of my projects is not to enought bed with size 330x330 ... so I am bulding CUBE printers by myself ... now I am working on printer for printing BIG SCALE RC TANKS with 900x350x250mm dimensions ... in building progress is next printer with dual printing head that print 2x dimension in X axis in same time ... dimensions 2x 400x300x250mm ... one driver to X axis with 2 motors (1 LEFT / 1 RIGHT) no needs tension for belt on X axis ... one driver for 2 extruder motors ...
note: about HEATBED ... I am not using heatbeds on all my printers, heatbeds are DISABLED and wires are out from beds, I ma printing on cold borosilicate 4mm glass sheets only with spray adhezion tool (3DLak) and no problems printing everythink what I want/need ...
I am printing PLA, ASA275 and sometimes PETG ... no ABS, TPU etc. materials ... and for BIG bed sizes bigger than 330x330 is 0.6 nozzle right choice ... same layer with bigger nozzle = same result with shorter printing time about 20% ... with same quality
so thats is reaction to your comment ... who can build printer as DIY project at home, never build 220x220x220 ... for this size is ENDER 3 straight to buy from Aliexpress ...
Glad to see you making a new printer again. I first became a subscriber with the old printer builds.
Mark1, Mark2, Mark3, Mark4, Mark Ruffalo
BTW. You've got a lot faster since the "big" 3d printer back then.
I may get there sometime...
Wow! Well done man! 💪.. I love the design and I can't wait to part two 😍
Thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken my pleasure
man if only you had access to a 3d metal printer, you would be a one man economic boom
Great job! I look forward to see the next video!
Thanks!
You can print a full size doghouse on a single run with this! Great engineering skills!
unfortunately that's quite poor engineering skills. Most important in engineering to know where to compromise. This heavy moving bed is very bad idea.
Finally I found this guy! Lost my old account and been missing his content every since
congratulation on building such a awesome printer! I have question - where are the measurements for installing Z frame i.e. how much space to from back/front of frame etc.? I am in middle of building one and need to understand measurement for this printer. waiting for reply, thanks :)
also do you happen to have the bill of materials (BOM)?
it's really so smooth man, I like it
“You call that a 3D printer?!”
*slaps frame of 3D printer
*”THIS is a 3D printer!”*
Dude, that is crazy even as a concept! Can't wait to see this beast in use
i might be missing the big picture here (no pun intended)...
why does someone need a huge printer like that? i mean, what is bigger than a tank that needs huge parts?
You won't trick me that easily into giving away what is it for but good try.
I think he wants to use it to print less parts so that he can leave the printer alone for longer without having to clear the bed and starting a new print
I won't fall for that either
a full sized tank
I'm hoping it is for bigger or more tank parts. If he can make two bogies wheels for suspension instead of one he just cut production time in half. Plus I'm also curios on what he is going to do with the upper half of that chassis. I'll just wait for the upcoming videos!
The files for the parts link is no longer available. Do you have these listed somewhere else? Thanks. Want to start this build soon.
Ivan, can you please talk about costs the next time?
I like that design. With a few modifications you could use cheaper sqare steel pipes of the same size for the frame.
This is an interesting build. I've been debating building my own large-form printer. I'm curious how far you can scale this without it causing warping/weight issues? Also, I've always wondered why nobody ever seems to use linear rails for these builds?
REALLY tempting to follow you and build one that size too especially since you made it look so easy
me … WOW y you need big printer?
you BIGEST 3d printed TANK ON TH-cam :D
me ...thinking … next up full size drive able tank lol :D
Lol
I read the title and thought "Who needs such big printers"? Most people are better served with multiple smaller printers. Unless you want to build tanks from PLA...
Why say lot words when few do work
Great job milling the rail with a router. It was a fantastic idea!
As always: Huge and brilliant project, couldn't be done better by anyone other :) keep up the good work! greetings from austria
Very expensive scratch in my country!! Lucky you! Thanks for shearing.
Amazing video! Thanks for sharing! However, I wonder if, for such a huge and impressive printer like this one, wouldn't it be better to use a Core XY instead? Additionally, what kind of mirror glass are you using? Regular? Is the surface too brittle? I love your videos! Please keep it up! :)
this is really intriguing. Not sure if i would take on the build process for it but if ever decent plans etc come out for it then maybe. Nice work :)
Isn't that a size when CoreXY becomes easier than cloning the mechanics of small printers?
Easier than this... Someone would need to show me
Easier/cheaper to replicate, no. Easier to achieve a better, more consistent print quality, yes. However, knowing who is building this monstrosity and what it's going to be used for this should work just fine. Also he's going to be using at least a 1mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm standard nozzle so quality shouldn't be too much of a concern.
@@ivanmirandawastaken you could mount the bed into 4 threaded rods or something like that (would give you electronic leveling by default), and use that as your Z axis, the whole bed slowly moves down with gravity. Then, the hotend is mounted in a way that one axis is fixed to the chassis of the 3D printer (say Y) and the other (X axis) rides on top of the other one. The hotend would be mounted to the latter axis. This is (to me, personal opinion) a tad harder but way more reliable. It will help reduce ghosting and increase print speed and acceleration, which in a bed as massive as that one are quite important factors.
This design, though, will work just fine, and it comes with a big advantage; it's already done.
@@ivanmirandawastaken
You 100% need auto bed leveling ivan the glass will sag a little in middle get a bltouch they are what you need
CoreXY would mean you need to move this humongous printbed up and down, perfectly level. Or you put the hotend on a Z axis, which I haven't seen that often, either...
Very nice build Ivan! Personally I would have combined the z-motor mounts with some 3D printed angles to reduce movement of the x-axis gantry. Looking forward to the next part!
The motors are flush with both rails' the brackets are just to avoid axial rotation and YX traslation. There's almost no work done by the mounts on that configuration (Check a CR10 if you can)
@@ivanmirandawastaken I was thinking more about "locking" the uprights in relation to the base frame. I am sure the brackets are fine for attaching the steppermotor. (The CR-10 does actually have a t-plate supporting the uprights)
There's no movement on that plane. What work would be done by the added.members?
@@ivanmirandawastaken The same as the braces for the CR-10 MAX. I probably explain this badly :-)
4:20 Great Idea! I'm going to try this at home :D
i tried 420 at my home and now i'm baked
I'm always impressed with your skill as a designer. I do agree with the others who have concerns with the weight of the bed. However, this looks like a very specialized printer. You will need to print slow but with a large head it should still out perform a smaller unit making smaller parts that need to be assembled. A print failure with this thing will potentially be very bad though. I wouldn't worry with the bed adjusters. Get it close and lock it in place. With a bed that large you will need a BL Touch anyway.
That better be some thick mirror, even glass is going to sage at that size when heated. Keeping this thing flat and level will be a nightmare.
You are a master my friend. Very cool
Mh, I'm pretty sure it's for the gun turret of your tank, to print it in one piece. Am I right? ;)
You are all trying to get me to spill the beans. Mute, I'M MUTE!
Nice one.
I like the built. Simple and effective. And cheap, for this size.
Wait no, you need auto bed leveling on this big of a bed. Temperature variations can cause uneven bed surface. Please, please get an auto bed leveler
He'll probably add a capacitive probe later. Adding auto bed leveling is super easy but you gotta have your x carriage loaded up with all your gear first
I don't know, but it looks like he knows what's he doing.
Shout out to all who watched all 33 episodes of Ivan's first big 3D printer.
Ivan, It's amazing not only to watch you building these things but to see your skills improve over time.
Aren't you going to need some support unde rthe middle of the mirror? I woudl think due to the size of it, you're going to get some drooping.
Stunning work. I'm impressed. Love the 3D printed parts - very well designed. Already curious for the next episode.
I'm good at doing what he shows at 5:01, but I don't think I could build a printer.
Bravo.
Bruh I'm crying I'm laughing so hard.
hhahahahhaha
I think you are single handedly keeping the manufaturers of that red filament in business. You must go through a shed-load of that stuff (mostly for your other stuff) on a weekly basis!
Good work though! :)
I can already feel the ghosting artifacts 😂
HOLLY MOLLY MAN THAT IS JUST FRAKING AWESOME!
I kind of want him to stream or time lapse a print on that thing.
That is gigaaaaaaaaantic!! You are the master of the impossible.
Like, fav y subs.
Just wondering how I’ll print those red parts before having the 3D printer hahah ;)
Two questions: how much does it cost? and what about the software?
U can ask someone else with a printer to print them for you?
If you didn't do it until now tho...
Daaaaam, this channel is next level 😂😂 other modding thier 3d printer but this guy upsize to the max 😏👍