Thank you so much for doing this video. I am unable to take my rig to a RV repair place because we are living in it while we build our house. This video really saved me a headache and helped me resolve an issue. Thanks again.
Thank you for taking the time to publish this video. I’ve been having a hard time finding one to show me where the sail switch is located. Yours was the first to do so from the many that I watched!
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 I have same heater need help I got power to reset switch new thermostat, blower does not start when powered up but I can jump to wire and get fan motor to run but nothing else happens. Everyone says it's the board mine does not flash can I bypass board to see if it will ignite?
In the third how to video is a different set up from what I can tell. I am trying to get the gas line fitting separated from the gas valve assembly and I’m unsure how to do so as it’s STUCK. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Good information. I’m just working on my 8525-IV. Don’t have a meter for testing. I’m not getting any ticking sounds before ignition. I can hear the sail switch then in all shuts off and I get an ignition fail code. I’m going to do the igniter, for you think the gas valve would be good as well? Do they tend die for no reason. This unit is very clean and was working perfectly all season. Then it just wouldn’t light.
I have an 8535-IV DCLP. When thermostat cycles it onn the fan is not starting. There's a buzz/clicking sound and then everything quits with a Fault Code indicatin "limit switch or airflow problems". Checked the sail switch with the VoM & it's good. Haven't tested the limit switch yet, but from your videos, I'm gathering that if the fan isn't running, it hasn't proceeded to the point where the limit switch would yet be a factor. Is that correct? What else should I be checking?
Thanks. I finally got back to working on the furnace and first tried to start it again. The fan did not start. When I checked the circuit board for the fault code, it was a continuous, slow blink. I can't find that described anywhere. Do you know what it indicates? I turned off the thermostat and the relay at the furnace. When turned back on, the flashing started immediately.
problem: i got the atwood 8535-1 furnace. got the dinosaur Fan 50 control board but the plug wires don't match up. fits fine but one wire has no contact when plugged into dinosaur. original has pwr, v1, s1, & gnd. the s1 doesnt go anywhere on dinosaur board. everything else matches. thats the flame sensor. i can move the pin but only thing left is "NC"? my furnace thermostat grounds the circuit & also i have time delay relay so i dont think i use the t-stat pin on the dinosaur board. also i thought if i used the dinosaur board i would NOT need to have the time-delay relay anymore. thats what i read online. cant find any info & Dinosaur ele has NO phone #.
Hmm, that hard to reach breaker switch may just be my problem! About to go check it out, I have no power to my board and the motor wont start. Confirmed the motor is good by connecting it direct to a battery. Thanks!
Having a ton of trouble trying to remove the gas line connected to the valve. I have to replace the heat exchanger gasket and it's impossible to do without removing valve. Any ideas 💡
Need some help here so I did check the sail switch and limit switch with multimeter like in first video and both are working. I turn on the heater and it just blows cold air no heat not sure if it’s not igniting I do here a click a little after the blower comes on and the click comes back again few times but no heat at all. Could it be the ignitor itself or gas line or could it even be the Thermostat that’s not working properly. The heater was working on the unit prior and was working fine all of a sudden just stopped working and only blew cool air Anyone who can help me out point me to direction go now since I know both switches are working
this is more of a question, than a comment. I have a reoccurring problem with my Atwood Furnace, it seems that the exhaust tube is a bit critical on staying in, and it causes my furnace to not go through the light sequence. My first test since this is a reoccurring problem is to take the cover off and remove the exhaust pipe, and placing the exhaust tube back into place. My question should I replace the exhaust tube is or their something I should check. I have replace the cover screws as it has been remove so many times over the past 3 years of trouble shooting and having this chronic condition. Your channel is great and your trouble shooting techniques are dead on.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 The furnace will not fully sequence and ignite. It gets to the ignite stage and will then shut down. The exahust tube needs to be fully inserted into the receptical tube. It seems to rattle out just a little bit during transport or movement it seems to work fine for multiple times but will revert to not igniting. I have replaced the screws both on the cover and exhaust tube.
Test Results : clean furnace opened up 2 extra ducts, furnace runs fine with plastic service door open cycles on and off with it shut,hooked up 3 test leads 1 before sail 1 after sail 1 after limit switch.Limit switch cuts out within 3 minutes of shutting plastic cover.Nothing blocking air in.So, hotwired limit switch works fine.Do limit switches get lazy in their old age?
Hey man great videos! Need some help. It’s 40 outside and I set my heat to 70 in the camper but it shuts off at 60 and will not cut back on unless I turn heat to off and then back to heat. But it still at that point will run for 10 mins max and shut back off. Why will it not stay running till my camper reaches the set temp? Thanks so much
So there are a few things I need to know first. When you say it runs for ten minutes and shuts off you mean the blower and everything or just the burner shuts off and the blower stays running. I also offer a $50 dollar phone consultation through PayPal.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Everything shuts off. Heat comes out till it gets to about 60 then the blower shuts off and will not cut back on unless I flip the switch to off then back to heat then it will all start up again and run but only for a little like 10 mins then the same thing. It will never get to the set temp on its own.
J. René Godin Ok so that model has a fan control relay on it centre of the fan shroud. That being said if the furnace tries to light it three time and goes into a fault the fan will run until the power is turned off to it or the battery goes dead. I am assuming your board or igniter is faulty. Without doing a gas test to see if pressure is a problem or it could be a dirty burner.
But the furnace works fine, thermostat works as it should but after the set temperature is reached the furnace goes out but the fan keeps going. I've been using the fuse as switch to turn it off and on
My camper got infested with rats. I pulled the vent hoses out with the plans of replacing them but it took longer than I thought and now I don't remember where all the hoses go. Is there a diagram that I could look at? I can't seem to find one.
There is no real order other than the vents the furthest away come off the back. If you don’t remember where they where I would just put them back on in what ever order.
The hard part is getting to the furnace. Mine is built in with access only on the inside where the ducts are, but nothing else. The outside just has a small hole for the exhaust, but no access door to reach the control board, gas, valve, sail switch, etc. Stupid design by Jayco.
voltage yes clean out yes igniter 1/8 propane yes obstructed vent inside no exhaust pipe yes.....both thermostats set high...lights up stays lit maybe 10 minutes then starts going out for a minute or 2 then relights for 5 or 10 then goes out and cycles like this with lit intervals smaller and smaller until no relight 3 times then inevitable shut down. Reset to soon won't work cool down 15 then it does it all over again. High limit switch?
Good information within, it would be more helpful if you would show us how to get to both the sail & HL switches. FYI: The only thing in the video that’s actually audibly clear is your multimeter’s continuity setting.
Like the information presented very well but the sound was very low, even with my volume all the way up it was hard to hear you, otherwise you know your stuff. Thank you!
Thank you so much for doing this video. I am unable to take my rig to a RV repair place because we are living in it while we build our house. This video really saved me a headache and helped me resolve an issue. Thanks again.
Great video and you listen to volbeat. Killin it
Thank you for taking the time to publish this video. I’ve been having a hard time finding one to show me where the sail switch is located. Yours was the first to do so from the many that I watched!
Thank you for publishing this. I have had trouble with my heater since spring and have watched every video with no luck until this one. Thank you!
Glad it helped this has been my aim to create content that is more helpful than what I have seen. Thanks again.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 I have same heater need help I got power to reset switch new thermostat, blower does not start when powered up but I can jump to wire and get fan motor to run but nothing else happens. Everyone says it's the board mine does not flash can I bypass board to see if it will ignite?
@@lawnmowerman4040 It will be the board the fan control relay on the board not letting power through. It is a very common problem.
The Canadian RV Repair Guy model 8940 lll dclp can I buy board? Which one thank you so much
@@lawnmowerman4040 I would use a dinosaur board Fan50 plus
How do you take out the sail switch would be a big help
Did you figure out how to take out your sail switch?
Will do an new video with more of a break down
In the third how to video is a different set up from what I can tell. I am trying to get the gas line fitting separated from the gas valve assembly and I’m unsure how to do so as it’s STUCK. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Good information. I’m just working on my 8525-IV. Don’t have a meter for testing. I’m not getting any ticking sounds before ignition. I can hear the sail switch then in all shuts off and I get an ignition fail code. I’m going to do the igniter, for you think the gas valve would be good as well? Do they tend die for no reason. This unit is very clean and was working perfectly all season. Then it just wouldn’t light.
I have an 8535-IV DCLP. When thermostat cycles it onn the fan is not starting. There's a buzz/clicking sound and then everything quits with a Fault Code indicatin "limit switch or airflow problems". Checked the sail switch with the VoM & it's good. Haven't tested the limit switch yet, but from your videos, I'm gathering that if the fan isn't running, it hasn't proceeded to the point where the limit switch would yet be a factor. Is that correct? What else should I be checking?
Still check the limit switch, but it sounds from your description that it might be the relay one the board giving up.
Thanks. I finally got back to working on the furnace and first tried to start it again. The fan did not start. When I checked the circuit board for the fault code, it was a continuous, slow blink. I can't find that described anywhere. Do you know what it indicates? I turned off the thermostat and the relay at the furnace. When turned back on, the flashing started immediately.
I myself put in a new thermostat in my Atwood still will not run but a red light is blinking on and off! Do think that it needs a new board?
problem: i got the atwood 8535-1 furnace. got the dinosaur Fan 50
control board but the plug wires don't match up. fits fine but one wire
has no contact when plugged into dinosaur. original has pwr, v1, s1,
& gnd. the s1 doesnt go anywhere on dinosaur board. everything else
matches. thats the flame sensor. i can move the pin but only thing left
is "NC"? my furnace thermostat grounds the circuit & also i have
time delay relay so i dont think i use the t-stat pin on the dinosaur
board. also i thought if i used the dinosaur board i would NOT need to
have the time-delay relay anymore. thats what i read online. cant find
any info & Dinosaur ele has NO phone #.
Hmm, that hard to reach breaker switch may just be my problem! About to go check it out, I have no power to my board and the motor wont start. Confirmed the motor is good by connecting it direct to a battery. Thanks!
3:09 Wouldn't that mean its a normally open switch being that the leads sent a signal through?
Thanks for your demo. Just what I needed.
Glad it was helpful!
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Does the 8535 iv have this on/off/reset switch?
@@ronyoutuyes it does.
Having a ton of trouble trying to remove the gas line connected to the valve. I have to replace the heat exchanger gasket and it's impossible to do without removing valve. Any ideas 💡
A picture of what your dealing with. Then I might be able to give you an idea.
Need some help here so I did check the sail switch and limit switch with multimeter like in first video and both are working. I turn on the heater and it just blows cold air no heat not sure if it’s not igniting I do here a click a little after the blower comes on and the click comes back again few times but no heat at all. Could it be the ignitor itself or gas line or could it even be the Thermostat that’s not working properly. The heater was working on the unit prior and was working fine all of a sudden just stopped working and only blew cool air
Anyone who can help me out point me to direction go now since I know both switches are working
this is more of a question, than a comment. I have a reoccurring problem with my Atwood Furnace, it seems that the exhaust tube is a bit critical on staying in, and it causes my furnace to not go through the light sequence. My first test since this is a reoccurring problem is to take the cover off and remove the exhaust pipe, and placing the exhaust tube back into place. My question should I replace the exhaust tube is or their something I should check. I have replace the cover screws as it has been remove so many times over the past 3 years of trouble shooting and having this chronic condition. Your channel is great and your trouble shooting techniques are dead on.
What exactly is it doing?
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 The furnace will not fully sequence and ignite. It gets to the ignite stage and will then shut down. The exahust tube needs to be fully inserted into the receptical tube. It seems to rattle out just a little bit during transport or movement it seems to work fine for multiple times but will revert to not igniting. I have replaced the screws both on the cover and exhaust tube.
Very helpful!!
Thank you so very much.
Test Results : clean furnace opened up 2 extra ducts, furnace runs fine with plastic service door open cycles on and off with it shut,hooked up 3 test leads 1 before sail 1 after sail 1 after limit switch.Limit switch cuts out within 3 minutes of shutting plastic cover.Nothing blocking air in.So, hotwired limit switch works fine.Do limit switches get lazy in their old age?
They get wore out when they cycle lots
I would add a vent to allow more are flow so it does not cycle do bad. It cannot get the heat out so it runs to hot.
My furnace blows cold at night when it's below freezing. My rv dealer recommends hi limit switch. Any ideas?
You familiar with the hydro flame 8900-II series?
Mine runs with !20 volt AC and 24 volt thermostat.
What thermostat would you recommend?
That’s more of a personal preference I find depending on what your looking for
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 - OK, I wasn't sure which would work.
Then I realized the regular ones for houses would and bought a Honeywell
Hey man great videos! Need some help. It’s 40 outside and I set my heat to 70 in the camper but it shuts off at 60 and will not cut back on unless I turn heat to off and then back to heat. But it still at that point will run for 10 mins max and shut back off. Why will it not stay running till my camper reaches the set temp? Thanks so much
So there are a few things I need to know first. When you say it runs for ten minutes and shuts off you mean the blower and everything or just the burner shuts off and the blower stays running. I also offer a $50 dollar phone consultation through PayPal.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Everything shuts off. Heat comes out till it gets to about 60 then the blower shuts off and will not cut back on unless I flip the switch to off then back to heat then it will all start up again and run but only for a little like 10 mins then the same thing. It will never get to the set temp on its own.
@@austintevis7304 it’s acting like it the thermostat
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 thanks !
Damn good video. Very to the point!
My fan won't turn off.Everything else works great. Fan limit switch? and where is it? Please and thank you
What is the model of your furnace? Then I can have a better idea of what direction to go in.
8531-111 dclp
Sorry I should have included that
J. René Godin
Ok so that model has a fan control relay on it centre of the fan shroud. That being said if the furnace tries to light it three time and goes into a fault the fan will run until the power is turned off to it or the battery goes dead. I am assuming your board or igniter is faulty. Without doing a gas test to see if pressure is a problem or it could be a dirty burner.
But the furnace works fine, thermostat works as it should but after the set temperature is reached the furnace goes out but the fan keeps going. I've been using the fuse as switch to turn it off and on
My camper got infested with rats. I pulled the vent hoses out with the plans of replacing them but it took longer than I thought and now I don't remember where all the hoses go. Is there a diagram that I could look at? I can't seem to find one.
There is no real order other than the vents the furthest away come off the back. If you don’t remember where they where I would just put them back on in what ever order.
Thank you for the video
The hard part is getting to the furnace. Mine is built in with access only on the inside where the ducts are, but nothing else. The outside just has a small hole for the exhaust, but no access door to reach the control board, gas, valve, sail switch, etc. Stupid design by Jayco.
Yeah I also have a jayco and have this same problem. I'm going to have to pull the whole unit to replace whatever the problem is
@ After about the 5th time, I got pretty fast at pulling my furnace out. Takes about 10 minutes now.
voltage yes clean out yes igniter 1/8 propane yes obstructed vent inside no exhaust pipe yes.....both thermostats set high...lights up stays lit maybe 10 minutes then starts going out for a minute or 2 then relights for 5 or 10 then goes out and cycles like this with lit intervals smaller and smaller until no relight 3 times then inevitable shut down. Reset to soon won't work cool down 15 then it does it all over again. High limit switch?
Yes a high limit would be good to start with. The only way to confirm is hook up probs to the wires and see if it lines up with the cycling
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 sounds great will do thank you for answering back right away
Extremely helpful, Thanks!
Good information within, it would be more helpful if you would show us how to get to both the sail & HL switches.
FYI: The only thing in the video that’s actually audibly clear is your multimeter’s continuity setting.
Was some of the first videos I did. I will do another one here with more information. Thanks for the feedback
Why does my 8535 111 make a short rumble after the blower cycle has ended?it doesn't do it all the time.
With out seeing it I would suspect the bushing is staring to go in the motor.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062 Thank you replying.I researched it more and I agree.I have a new motor on its way tomorrow👍
Would have been especially helpful if I could hear.
You live over a bar?
I need that meter
It’s a nice meter for sure
I heard volbeat in the background
Volume needs to be a little higher.
The music in background is very distracting to hear what you are saying, and clearly understand you!
No volume too quiet.
Like the information presented very well but the sound was very low, even with my volume all the way up it was hard to hear you, otherwise you know your stuff. Thank you!
SOUND IS SO LOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good song in background!
Lol thanks. Don’t even remember what was playing.
Volbeat!
I was going to say can't hear you at all
Sophia Locks
Georgianna Island
Baumbach Walk
holy crap this video is quiet
Shanon Heights
your very knowledgeable...but your music is too fucking loud mate... and keep the mic closer to you...
Definitely to hard to hear.
Can't hear it so thumbs down