Your video saved me several cold nights or having to stay in a hotel room. I'm a full timer while I build my retirement home so you can imagine my dismay when I woke up during the night to a coach at ~58 degrees (it was 31 degrees outside). I spent all day pulling the furnace out, testing the control board, replacing the control board (incredibly my local RV dealer had a new replacement unit on the shelf), and finally reinstalling and connecting the furnace and ductwork. I've got heat again and no one's happier than my wife. Thank you for taking the time to create and post this video. You're a lifesaver! BTW... I gotta complain just a little about the maintainability of everything RV. Nothing is made to be repaired (easily) and this ole' man can't fold himself up into the basement like he could 30 years ago. I guess it's only the owners that have an interest in being able to fix stuff for ourselves. The manufacturers don't seem to care and the repair shops just want us to bring our problems to them.
I'm with you. Same issue full timing dead of winter middle of night, OF COURSE! And can't do what I used to do either. Plus I'm a 100 miles away from a dealer in Wyoming.
Thank you for taking the time and all the extra effort moving the camera around. My furnace went out while on the last trip. After watching, I feel confident enough that I can diagnose and hopefully fix my furnace now.
I worked on my sub furnas but couldnt get it working. Fortunately, I found a good deal on a replacement so I just replaced the whole thing. I called my mobile Rv guy & offered the old one to him. He came over & got it and told me his plan. He has a customer who is an old man who lives in an old Rv at a local Rv park. He has worked on this guys furnas several times and has told him he needs a new one but the ol guy does not have the $$. SO, my Rv friend said he will repair my old furnas and offer it to the old guy for the price of parts only. He is willing to donate his time. !
This has to be the most informative idea I’ve watched. My Suburban 35k btu is having the same issues described, so I’m going to do the same tests to see if it’s the board. Thank you for tips in this video.
Chuck, thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing it with us. It really helps out when we're trying to diagnose the problem with the heater.
Excellent detailed video, thank you. I have a sf-35f thats not working, it is a year 2000 model camper. Main on/off switch is on, I connected the 2 blue wires as mentioned to bypass the thermostat and I have 12v on all 3 positive terminals of the relay (the older style you mentioned in this video), fan turns freely by hand but does not run, like its getting no power. High temp switch on the back ohms out perfectly. Does this sound like a bad board?
Wow, so many people upset about the radio! Great video. Thanks. I just bought a trailer with one of these units in it that I didn't expect to work. It surprised me at 3:00 in the morning when it came on. I'm borrowing some solar power from a neighbor and they asked me to remove the fuse so it wouldn't drain batteries at night.. now with the fuse back in neither blower comes on. I do hear the click of trying to ignite. I messed something up by pulling and reinstalling the fuse? So bummed about this.. I really thought I was going to have heat this winter without working too hard. Thanks if you're still checking comments and happened to respond
Haha yeah. Noobie mistake. If you are having battery issues that could definitely cause the problem you are describing. If the batteries are full and you only hear a click at the furnace it is probably the control board or the motor.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Our furnace (suburban sf-35vhq) makes a clicking noise but nothing ignites or turns on. If it tries to it makes a weird noise and shuts off. We eliminated the limit switch, battery, probably the thermostat and the wheel thing looked clear to me. One of the red lines read that it didn’t have any power i assume it went to the circuit board but I’m not even sure if we’re doing it correctly. Newbie here also!
I'm an RV Tech and have been working on the same furnace for the last week I have gone through four boards brand new out of the box that do not work and I will be doing my fifth one this week from a different Factory hoping I get a legitimate board to operate
nice video. I have a two stage suburban heater that only seems to work on low speed. No power to orange W2 wire. Any suggestions? If I feed 12 volt to spade connector where orange w2 wire connects it goes into high fire. Oddly enough at the thermostat the orange W2 wire gets power via realy immidiately on start when I believe I should only get the W1. It appears nothing is going to W1 from thermostat. Again if you can lend a hand let me know.
Thanks so much for doing this video!! Looking at a 2006 Winnebago. It was demonstrated to work before i bought it. Haven’t achieved it since. Rocking the classics!
good video I have the Suburban 16,000 BTU Auto Ignition Furnace 1.will the blower come on even if my propane tank is empty?2.will I hear the ignitor click even w/out propane?3.do the outside furnce exhaust screens prevent tiny insects from clogging gas flow? thanks
I have the same firmness and sometimes it will not kick on, but it will if I turn the fan with my finger to push start it. Do you think that could be a board problem or is it definitely a motor issue?
Thanks for the video! I have an SF-42. When running the tests, the relay sends power to the blower for about 30 seconds, then clicks off and the blower never starts. Is this the circuit board? If so, do you know the part number? Or is this a symptom of the blower motor? Thank you!
Great video, thank you for posting! What causes the circuit boards to go bad? The last week trips, our furnace would not start. It clicks when the thermostat is turned on, but the fan does not engage. I happened to flip the reset switch on the unit on the 1st trip and it started working. On the 2nd trip and it didn't start, out of a bit of frustration I banged my hand on the side of the unit and it fired up! Just as you stated in your video, I bypassed the thermostat wiring to isolate the problem. Is it possible I have a circuit board going bad as well?
Circuit boards go out over time especially if they are getting too hot like if one of the ducts is not sealed up. Maybe the Circuit board is not powering the motor but more likely you have a sail switch that is getting stuck or your motor is going out. By hitting the furnace you could have either got the sail switch un stuck or got the wheel to move giving the motor momentum to start. Hope that helps.
Thank you! I have been trying to figure out this exact situation and had power to the sail switch, limit switch and everything else. Wasn’t until I saw this video that I discovered the problem.
Great video, however we did replace the circuitboard and it still didn’t work. We discovered the sail switch behind the blower casing was bad. Would love to see a video on what to do about that. The same symptoms. The sail switch is only $20 whereas the circuitboard was $140 Would like to have tried to replace that first :-) However we did test the old circuit board with the new sail switch and the circuit board was bad too. What are the chances of them both blowing at the same time? Crazy!
Hey. I have this exact furnace. It stopped working bc of some serious nesting. I disassembled the entire assembly and cleaned it thoroughly. Put it back together now doest work at all (blower did work) No click, nothing. I checked every connection bc i assumed i yanked something loose. Can't find anything wrong. I'm getting power to that blue wire in the middle but its not jumping over to the blower wire when in turn it on. The sail switch is inside the casing, and i had to remove it. Is there anything other than just putting that cover back on i need to do? Or something i need to have lined up or something...idk. . Any way you got Any ideas ? Just find it hard to believe its the pcb when it was working b4 i took it out of the wall. Please help, thank you!!!!
I have a 1998 Atwood 5310 furnace. The relay has power coming in and when the thermostat is turned on the positive wire to activate the relay gets power but does not kick on. If I connect the main positive wire from relay to the positive of the motor the fan comes on but it never turns on gas or ignitor. Does that mean that along with the relay something else is wrong? Thanks for the video.
I replaced the over temp switch and the sail switch on my NT-12S and it fired up. It also has a brand new thermostat. Then I installed it back in the case and installed it in my van…. And it won’t light off. The fan comes on, I can hear the gas valve click open, and I can hear the igniter click. It does this for 3 cycles then shuts off. What else should I look at for troubleshooting?
I would start it up, go out side and see if you smell propane when it is trying to ignite. If you do, you either have something in the burner or it's not sparking at the right spot. If you don't smell any propane, the gas valve is not opening. There are 2 solenoids on the valve so you might hear the click but it might not actually be opening.
Our newer rv suburban furnace starts, runs, seems to finish its cycle for heat, but trips the reset switch outside on the furnace. I have noticed that the furnace motor is a little more noisy and took off the covers to expose the fan blades and everything looks ok. I looked at the heat ducts and piping and again everything looks good. Could the motor be causing a overheating problem due to slower speed in case it is faulty? I just don’t know why the reset keeps tripping at the end of every heat cycle. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have bench tested my Suburban nt-34sp unit. It works well but im wondering why the exhaust vent air is so much hotter than the regular vent air is. Is it supposed to be hotter coming out the exhaust than what is coming out of the vent holes that are supposed to heat the RV? Seems self defeating to me.
Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it was normal but I'm new to this RV stuff. Just wanted another opinion of someone who has been into this sort of thing.
Hello, I was having same issue but no clicking, I put the two blue wires together and the fan went on, it shut off in maybe 30 seconds so I tried it again and same thing, it went on and off. So I went in and took the thermostat apart and touched the two wires together that lead to the furnace and again it went on but now the fan won't shut off, I ended up turning the main power off to get it to stop.I'm guessing I need a new thermostat. Any suggestions on what to check that would make the fan continue to run ? I did not have the propane turned on when I was doing this.
In my RV, on my thermostat, when I turn the heater on, but the thermostat is set low enough that the burner isn't going to ignite, the blower doesn't come on. The blower only comes on if the burner is going to ignite afterwards. But my buddy just got an older 5th wheel and when we turn the heater ON but the thermostat is set low so it doesn't start an ignition cycle... the blower just blows constantly. If the heater is turned ON, the blower is running. Was that ever part of normal operation in an older Suburban furnace? I'm almost thinking it may have operated that way on purpose back then, that it may be normal operation; perhaps a newer control board would remedy it.
On a newer SF_30FQ the time delay is on the circuit control board or is there a seperate time control board? its 6 years old. thought it was the board and I replaced it still didnt work. trouble shooting flow chart said replace time delay , so I may have a bad board?
On newer furnaces there is not a time delay just a relay on the control board that turns the fan on. I would try hooking the 2 blue wires at the furnace together and see if it comes on. If it does you have a thermostat problem. If it doesn't its likely the motor
I have a SF-30FQ, the furnace fan will run and then light the burner but only stay lit for a few seconds and go out, it repeats this three times and then shuts down, any idea what could cause this
I've replaced the limit switch and the sail switch and still no ignition. I know it's getting gas because i can smell it. And the blower works. Any ideas?
Wow. We just got our camper in May, haven't even used the heater yet, and this is exactly what it is doing. Guarantee this is the issue. Well gotta take it to Camping World and get it fixed for free
hello. I have a issue with my suburban sf-20 furnace motor, When the motor is isolated it starts for 2 seconds , stops, starts for 2 seconds, stops, then shorts the power supply out. IF I take the squirrell cages off it runs perfect, cages back on, back to on/ off etc. Any suggestions?. this has done this to 2 motors. Its very bazaar.
So I just replaced my board and I did your test to bypass the thermostat and can get it to turn on but can’t get it to turn on with the thermostat any help would be appreciated
My furnace fan comes on for about 3 or 4 seconds then shuts off, not enough time to try to ignite. Obviously no heat. Not positive of model or brand as it is in storage at the moment. 2010 Itasca Meridian Diesel pusher. Any thoughts...I am suspecting thermostat.
If the fan is coming on, the thermostat is working. If it's only running 3 or 4 seconds it could be a a bad motor or board or a wiring problem. Even if the thermostat was turning it off the fan would run for another 3 minutes for cool down
@@rvtechtips874 OK, those things I will look at. Is the "cool down" done by temperature or strictly timed. If timed, does it add the 3 minutes even though the gas was never called for and never tried to ignite?
Replace cell switch and limit switch heater still will not light ignite just lower comes on runs for three about three to four minutes and then cuts off do you have any tips to where I can troubleshoot from here
Find out if it is trying to light, you should hear it sparking and smell gas out of the exhaust outside about 30 seconds of running. If you do, you have a combustion issue,(burner, electrode, spark gap). If it is not trying to ignite, either the control board or something still wrong with the limit/sail switch circuit. Good luck
Find out if it is trying to light, you should hear it sparking and smell gas out of the exhaust outside about 30 seconds of running. If you do, you have a combustion issue,(burner, electrode, spark gap). If it is not trying to ignite, either the control board or something still wrong with the limit/sail switch circuit. Good luck
521099 The board in the vid looks like a 232613, Suburban replaced it with another board, and then that one with 521099. Be cautious, a lot of 232613's are now oooold and probably shouldn't be used. The 521099 looks cheaper, and is more available.
I hav a brand new suburban 16 nt that will not start. All the wires are connected and the power is going to the furnace. Could it be a faulty mother board
I have a Suburban SF-25 furnace whose Fan doesn't start at all. There's 11V at the Control Board incoming Power connector, but nothing at the outgoing Power connector. Is 11V too low for the Control Board to function? I had previously taken this to an RV Tech when the Fan did start, but the Burner doesn't light. He checked with another Control-board, and it still didn't light. Now, with the original Control-board, the Fan doesn't start at all.
11 volts is too low but it might be enough for the fan to start. When the voltage is low it will give you irratic results. Try getting your voltage up and see what happens. If you hook the 2 blue wires at the furnace together it should turn on. If not you got a bad board, motor or stuck sail switch. Hope that helps.
Your video saved me several cold nights or having to stay in a hotel room. I'm a full timer while I build my retirement home so you can imagine my dismay when I woke up during the night to a coach at ~58 degrees (it was 31 degrees outside). I spent all day pulling the furnace out, testing the control board, replacing the control board (incredibly my local RV dealer had a new replacement unit on the shelf), and finally reinstalling and connecting the furnace and ductwork. I've got heat again and no one's happier than my wife. Thank you for taking the time to create and post this video. You're a lifesaver!
BTW... I gotta complain just a little about the maintainability of everything RV. Nothing is made to be repaired (easily) and this ole' man can't fold himself up into the basement like he could 30 years ago. I guess it's only the owners that have an interest in being able to fix stuff for ourselves. The manufacturers don't seem to care and the repair shops just want us to bring our problems to them.
I'm with you. Same issue full timing dead of winter middle of night, OF COURSE! And can't do what I used to do either. Plus I'm a 100 miles away from a dealer in Wyoming.
Thanks for a straight to the point video without out word a salad at nauseum.
Thank you for taking the time and all the extra effort moving the camera around. My furnace went out while on the last trip. After watching, I feel confident enough that I can diagnose and hopefully fix my furnace now.
Glad to help!
I worked on my sub furnas but couldnt get it working. Fortunately, I
found a good deal on a replacement so I just replaced the whole
thing. I called my mobile Rv guy & offered the old one to him. He
came over & got it and told me his plan. He has a customer who
is an old man who lives in an old Rv at a local Rv park. He has
worked on this guys furnas several times and has told him he
needs a new one but the ol guy does not have the $$. SO, my Rv
friend said he will repair my old furnas and offer it to the old guy
for the price of parts only. He is willing to donate his time.
!
This has to be the most informative idea I’ve watched. My Suburban 35k btu is having the same issues described, so I’m going to do the same tests to see if it’s the board. Thank you for tips in this video.
Chuck, thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing it with us. It really helps out when we're trying to diagnose the problem with the heater.
Glad to help
Excellent detailed video, thank you. I have a sf-35f thats not working, it is a year 2000 model camper. Main on/off switch is on, I connected the 2 blue wires as mentioned to bypass the thermostat and I have 12v on all 3 positive terminals of the relay (the older style you mentioned in this video), fan turns freely by hand but does not run, like its getting no power. High temp switch on the back ohms out perfectly. Does this sound like a bad board?
Sounds like you have got a bad motor to me. One of those 3 wires off the relay is powering the motor.
@@rvtechtips874 ok, thank you for the quick response, i will tear it down further then.
Wow, so many people upset about the radio!
Great video. Thanks. I just bought a trailer with one of these units in it that I didn't expect to work. It surprised me at 3:00 in the morning when it came on. I'm borrowing some solar power from a neighbor and they asked me to remove the fuse so it wouldn't drain batteries at night.. now with the fuse back in neither blower comes on. I do hear the click of trying to ignite.
I messed something up by pulling and reinstalling the fuse? So bummed about this.. I really thought I was going to have heat this winter without working too hard. Thanks if you're still checking comments and happened to respond
Haha yeah. Noobie mistake. If you are having battery issues that could definitely cause the problem you are describing. If the batteries are full and you only hear a click at the furnace it is probably the control board or the motor.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Our furnace (suburban sf-35vhq) makes a clicking noise but nothing ignites or turns on. If it tries to it makes a weird noise and shuts off.
We eliminated the limit switch, battery, probably the thermostat and the wheel thing looked clear to me. One of the red lines read that it didn’t have any power i assume it went to the circuit board but I’m not even sure if we’re doing it correctly. Newbie here also!
RV parts designers love using 4x fasteners from 17 different angles on a board which should be a 30 second swap and bop.
Didn't learn anything about mine but learned a little sumthin and...AND, Ozzy and Sabbath in the background was kewl.
Thanks
I'm an RV Tech and have been working on the same furnace for the last week I have gone through four boards brand new out of the box that do not work and I will be doing my fifth one this week from a different Factory hoping I get a legitimate board to operate
nice video. I have a two stage suburban heater that only seems to work on low speed. No power to orange W2 wire. Any suggestions? If I feed 12 volt to spade connector where orange w2 wire connects it goes into high fire. Oddly enough at the thermostat the orange W2 wire gets power via realy immidiately on start when I believe I should only get the W1. It appears nothing is going to W1 from thermostat. Again if you can lend a hand let me know.
I love your videos because it helps me out figuring out what the problem is my furnace. Thank you for a lot for the doing this video
Thanks so much for doing this video!! Looking at a 2006 Winnebago. It was demonstrated to work before i bought it. Haven’t achieved it since. Rocking the classics!
good video I have the Suburban 16,000 BTU Auto Ignition Furnace 1.will the blower come on even if my propane tank is empty?2.will I hear the ignitor click even w/out propane?3.do the outside furnce exhaust screens prevent tiny insects from clogging gas flow? thanks
I have the same firmness and sometimes it will not kick on, but it will if I turn the fan with my finger to push start it. Do you think that could be a board problem or is it definitely a motor issue?
I think this is going to be very helpful once I figure out how to get the cover off. I removed all the screws and it won't budge.
Thanks for the video! I have an SF-42. When running the tests, the relay sends power to the blower for about 30 seconds, then clicks off and the blower never starts. Is this the circuit board? If so, do you know the part number? Or is this a symptom of the blower motor?
Thank you!
It's possibly the circuit board but more likely the limit or sail switch. The circuit board part number is 521099
Great video, thank you for posting! What causes the circuit boards to go bad? The last week trips, our furnace would not start. It clicks when the thermostat is turned on, but the fan does not engage. I happened to flip the reset switch on the unit on the 1st trip and it started working. On the 2nd trip and it didn't start, out of a bit of frustration I banged my hand on the side of the unit and it fired up! Just as you stated in your video, I bypassed the thermostat wiring to isolate the problem. Is it possible I have a circuit board going bad as well?
Circuit boards go out over time especially if they are getting too hot like if one of the ducts is not sealed up. Maybe the Circuit board is not powering the motor but more likely you have a sail switch that is getting stuck or your motor is going out. By hitting the furnace you could have either got the sail switch un stuck or got the wheel to move giving the motor momentum to start. Hope that helps.
Thank you! I have been trying to figure out this exact situation and had power to the sail switch, limit switch and everything else. Wasn’t until I saw this video that I discovered the problem.
Update: I bought the new board it still doesn’t work. Back to square one.
@@jeangilchrest2209 i am at the same spot too!
Great video, however we did replace the circuitboard and it still didn’t work. We discovered the sail switch behind the blower casing was bad. Would love to see a video on what to do about that. The same symptoms. The sail switch is only $20 whereas the circuitboard was $140
Would like to have tried to replace that first :-)
However we did test the old circuit board with the new sail switch and the circuit board was bad too. What are the chances of them both blowing at the same time? Crazy!
Great video ! Loved the background music ! Where could I get a suburban sf-25f circuit board and if possible part number ?
Hey. I have this exact furnace. It stopped working bc of some serious nesting. I disassembled the entire assembly and cleaned it thoroughly. Put it back together now doest work at all (blower did work) No click, nothing. I checked every connection bc i assumed i yanked something loose. Can't find anything wrong. I'm getting power to that blue wire in the middle but its not jumping over to the blower wire when in turn it on. The sail switch is inside the casing, and i had to remove it. Is there anything other than just putting that cover back on i need to do? Or something i need to have lined up or something...idk. . Any way you got Any ideas ? Just find it hard to believe its the pcb when it was working b4 i took it out of the wall. Please help, thank you!!!!
I have a 1998 Atwood 5310 furnace. The relay has power coming in and when the thermostat is turned on the positive wire to activate the relay gets power but does not kick on. If I connect the main positive wire from relay to the positive of the motor the fan comes on but it never turns on gas or ignitor. Does that mean that along with the relay something else is wrong? Thanks for the video.
How were you getting power to the furnace to test it
I replaced the over temp switch and the sail switch on my NT-12S and it fired up. It also has a brand new thermostat.
Then I installed it back in the case and installed it in my van…. And it won’t light off.
The fan comes on, I can hear the gas valve click open, and I can hear the igniter click. It does this for 3 cycles then shuts off.
What else should I look at for troubleshooting?
I would start it up, go out side and see if you smell propane when it is trying to ignite. If you do, you either have something in the burner or it's not sparking at the right spot. If you don't smell any propane, the gas valve is not opening. There are 2 solenoids on the valve so you might hear the click but it might not actually be opening.
What do you use as a 12v source, outside of the vehicle? Just another battery or a benchtop power supply?
I have a power converter, it's probably my most important tool. You can also just use another battery.
good work man thanks for posting this vid 👍
Our newer rv suburban furnace starts, runs, seems to finish its cycle for heat, but trips the reset switch outside on the furnace. I have noticed that the furnace motor is a little more noisy and took off the covers to expose the fan blades and everything looks ok. I looked at the heat ducts and piping and again everything looks good. Could the motor be causing a overheating problem due to slower speed in case it is faulty? I just don’t know why the reset keeps tripping at the end of every heat cycle. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you that was excellent video
I have bench tested my Suburban nt-34sp unit. It works well but im wondering why the exhaust vent air is so much hotter than the regular vent air is. Is it supposed to be hotter coming out the exhaust than what is coming out of the vent holes that are supposed to heat the RV? Seems self defeating to me.
That is normal, they are not that efficient and loose alot of heat out of the exhaust. Not much you can do about that.
Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it was normal but I'm new to this RV stuff. Just wanted another opinion of someone who has been into this sort of thing.
Hello, I was having same issue but no clicking, I put the two blue wires together and the fan went on, it shut off in maybe 30 seconds so I tried it again and same thing, it went on and off. So I went in and took the thermostat apart and touched the two wires together that lead to the furnace and again it went on but now the fan won't shut off, I ended up turning the main power off to get it to stop.I'm guessing I need a new thermostat. Any suggestions on what to check that would make the fan continue to run ? I did not have the propane turned on when I was doing this.
Is 11.3 volts too low? Fan kicks on and stays on but no heat. I don’t hear it clicking to try to ignite.
In my RV, on my thermostat, when I turn the heater on, but the thermostat is set low enough that the burner isn't going to ignite, the blower doesn't come on. The blower only comes on if the burner is going to ignite afterwards.
But my buddy just got an older 5th wheel and when we turn the heater ON but the thermostat is set low so it doesn't start an ignition cycle... the blower just blows constantly. If the heater is turned ON, the blower is running.
Was that ever part of normal operation in an older Suburban furnace?
I'm almost thinking it may have operated that way on purpose back then, that it may be normal operation; perhaps a newer control board would remedy it.
On a newer SF_30FQ the time delay is on the circuit control board or is there a seperate time control board? its 6 years old. thought it was the board and I replaced it still didnt work. trouble shooting flow chart said replace time delay , so I may have a bad board?
On newer furnaces there is not a time delay just a relay on the control board that turns the fan on. I would try hooking the 2 blue wires at the furnace together and see if it comes on. If it does you have a thermostat problem. If it doesn't its likely the motor
@@rvtechtips874 Not getting power to motor So im thinking defective board but will hook a direct power to motor and see if it runs.
I have a SF-30FQ, the furnace fan will run and then light the burner but only stay lit for a few seconds and go out, it repeats this three times and then shuts down, any idea what could cause this
I've replaced the limit switch and the sail switch and still no ignition. I know it's getting gas because i can smell it. And the blower works. Any ideas?
Wow. We just got our camper in May, haven't even used the heater yet, and this is exactly what it is doing. Guarantee this is the issue. Well gotta take it to Camping World and get it fixed for free
Do yourself a favor and fix it yourself. Don't let the monkeys at an RV dealer touch your rig.
hello. I have a issue with my suburban sf-20 furnace motor, When the motor is isolated it starts for 2 seconds , stops, starts for 2 seconds, stops, then shorts the power supply out. IF I take the squirrell cages off it runs perfect, cages back on, back to on/ off etc. Any suggestions?. this has done this to 2 motors. Its very bazaar.
This is a great channel, helped me out 👍🏻
If you replace the thermostat and it doesn’t work what’s the next step?
Try to put my hands in the pipe I can feel no heat coming out. Maybe it’s cause I’m trying to fill it over the phone doesn’t work.
My sail switch seems to be failing. Where is it located on that particular model?
The sail switch is located on the blower housing
So I just replaced my board and I did your test to bypass the thermostat and can get it to turn on but can’t get it to turn on with the thermostat any help would be appreciated
I am stuck at the same step
My furnace fan comes on for about 3 or 4 seconds then shuts off, not enough time to try to ignite. Obviously no heat. Not positive of model or brand as it is in storage at the moment. 2010 Itasca Meridian Diesel pusher. Any thoughts...I am suspecting thermostat.
If the fan is coming on, the thermostat is working. If it's only running 3 or 4 seconds it could be a a bad motor or board or a wiring problem. Even if the thermostat was turning it off the fan would run for another 3 minutes for cool down
@@rvtechtips874 OK, those things I will look at. Is the "cool down" done by temperature or strictly timed. If timed, does it add the 3 minutes even though the gas was never called for and never tried to ignite?
Replace cell switch and limit switch heater still will not light ignite just lower comes on runs for three about three to four minutes and then cuts off do you have any tips to where I can troubleshoot from here
Find out if it is trying to light, you should hear it sparking and smell gas out of the exhaust outside about 30 seconds of running. If you do, you have a combustion issue,(burner, electrode, spark gap). If it is not trying to ignite, either the control board or something still wrong with the limit/sail switch circuit. Good luck
Find out if it is trying to light, you should hear it sparking and smell gas out of the exhaust outside about 30 seconds of running. If you do, you have a combustion issue,(burner, electrode, spark gap). If it is not trying to ignite, either the control board or something still wrong with the limit/sail switch circuit. Good luck
my 4 wire connector (sf-30) doesnt have 2 blue wires in it, what can i do to bypass the thermostat???
perhaps radio noise?
was a bit loud so it was hard to follow your great instructions.
Where do I get the circuit board
What if your heater go on sometimes and sometimes it clicks but nothing
Could be the motor going out. The click you hear is the relay on the circuit board powering the motor. So either the motor or the circuit board
Yeah I changed the circuit board because I was told by a local RV repair it was the circuit board . So here I am with the same problem
So these units are 12V?
Yes they are.
521099
The board in the vid looks like a 232613, Suburban replaced it with another board, and then that one with 521099.
Be cautious, a lot of 232613's are now oooold and probably shouldn't be used. The 521099 looks cheaper, and is more available.
I hav a brand new suburban 16 nt that will not start. All the wires are connected and the power is going to the furnace. Could it be a faulty mother board
Could be. Do you hear a click when you turn the thermostat on? There is also an on/off switch on the side of the furnace make sure it is on.
Excellent, subscribed!🙂
Where can I get a circuit board for my suburban furnace
Camping world or Amazon.
Time for some new videos Chuck
Wow, thanks!
No problem!
Thanks buddy
That's exactly what happens to mines. Ugh!!!
What’s with the very loud background music ?
Rocking along to a little Black Sabbath….?
Nice video but awful audio. Radio playing?
helpful but turn the radio off.
Keep the music going during your videos them more realistic like real life . Some of these guys on here are soft bunch of cupcakes
Great video, love the radio in the background. Don't listen to these cry babies!
Thanks!
Has anyone complained about the radio in the background? I might try this video later. but no...
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️👍
Turn radio off next time
Turn your radio OFF when making a instructional video please.
Sorry, newbie mistake, I will get better
I liked the radio
I thought it was pretty good music!
Nothing like a little Black Sabbath to facilitate furnace troubleshooting.
@@The-Bankster😊
please turn down music as it is loud
Wow. 1st time someone did a video with the radio on. Bad job. Couldn't watch
It was one of my first videos trying to do better but thanks for your input I appreciate it so much
I actually kind of liked it.
He probably got instantly demonitized, but it was HOW I want to work in a garage.
What is that radio station, I want to see if I can get it on TuneIn radio.. great mix
Sorry hard to take you serious when you don't even realize it The dam radio is on in the background!!
First thing you need to do is turn the damn radio or tv in the background OFF!
Next time you do a video turn off your radio. That music playing in the background makes it difficult to follow/hear what you're saying!
Turn the damn radio off, background noise is to loud.
Yea I realize that.
I have a Suburban SF-25 furnace whose Fan doesn't start at all. There's 11V at the Control Board incoming Power connector, but nothing at the outgoing Power connector. Is 11V too low for the Control Board to function? I had previously taken this to an RV Tech when the Fan did start, but the Burner doesn't light. He checked with another Control-board, and it still didn't light. Now, with the original Control-board, the Fan doesn't start at all.
11 volts is too low but it might be enough for the fan to start. When the voltage is low it will give you irratic results. Try getting your voltage up and see what happens. If you hook the 2 blue wires at the furnace together it should turn on. If not you got a bad board, motor or stuck sail switch. Hope that helps.