Even though you’re not a professional repair person, I learned more about the heater from this video than any others I watched. Thank you for being throughout.😎
You did a good job! And one thing I might add. Hi-limits, some are resettable, yours was not. As a furnace repair man, I have found in most cases, you have fixed a symptom not a cause. Check the filter, air return and registers to be clean and open. Inadequate air flow is why the hi-limit is tripping. But yes, they can just go bad.
I'm a fulltime RV'er. I am currently in the woods and the temp just dropped below 60. We have no shore power here and the generator quit. I got a wife, and 2 kids under 4. And no heat. Until I watched this video. Our problems were different. But I'm would never have looked under the stove to check the back of the furnace. I had wires melted And cob webs everywhere. I simply removed all cob webs. Pulled off the connector adjusted a loose wire and bingo I got great. Thank you. And yes I did this at 1 am.
Thank you for sharing your experiance. I'm headed back out the door to figure out whats going on at the sail and limit switch. I am also a big fan of Dinosaur Electronics and do have one on my water heater. Okay it's fixed! I used your information and in about 2 minutes I confirmed I did not have a complete circuit through through the limit switch. After much pain and frustration we managed to remove the furnace. When I removed the rear cover to expose the limit switch I found 1 wire disconnected. I tested the switch and connected to wire. I confirmed continuity then reinstalled and test fired the furnace. It appears to be the result of sloppy workmanship at the Suburban assembly plant. We recently moved the rig home from our summer camping location and I assume a bump in the road somewhere was enough to knock this wire off. No way could it have ever been properly installed. I've just been lucky it was working up to this point. I still don't have a Dinosaur control board but we are warm. Thanks again for your video. I owe you dinner my friend! Jeff Schramm
Awesome video good sir. After watching your video, I tested and replaced my limit switch. Worked like a charm. Dry camping is back on the menu. Mine must have went out when it was constantly running when the temp dropped to -7 deg ambient.
Crazy, I just pulled mine out for cleaning yesterday. I have to pull mine out from inside and they did not give me enough wire to get it out. That's an upgrade for a later time. Oops, at least you have upgraded the board in the heater. Heat, at last! Awesome troubleshooting. You explained this very well, I learned alot. Thanks for showing us all the procedures.
Nice educational video. My problem was just a loose blade connector on the limit switch. But I wouldn’t have figured that out without your video. Thanks.
Great video! I loved the fact that you bought the extra un-needed part, which was a great learning opportunity. Thanks for making this video. I am off to work on my 1998 Motorhome heater.
I have watched upwards of 300 videos including a lot of yours to help me understand my new to me 2006 coachman motor home. I have yet to have an issue with appliances, but I know exactly what to check thanks to you and the others willing to put up videos. Thanks.
Just found your channel while looking how to fix my 1994 Fleetwood Flair furnace. This helps so much, I truly appreciate it! I first blew out the furnace which worked last year. Per my manual I ran the blower 3 times to blow out the system but no luckl Our furnaces look very similar. I will check my fuses then check everything you did here. Look forward to watching more of your videos, thank you!
Thank you for this video. I followed its instructions and fixed mine. It had a bad connection at the limit switch. One thing I noticed is that on newer RV's, (mines a 2018) , they relocated the board , the sail switch , and the limit switch to right inside the cover. It was so easy. When the factory put mine together, they didn't push the spade connector on far enough.
Great detailed video! You did a good job trouble shooting and explaining. I had no idea what to look for. Now I after watching you, i feel like I can tackle this no problem! THANKS
Very good information on the heating system.. I just had the same issue blower turned on but no ignition and just blew cool air then shut off in about 15/30 seconds.. Probably was the reset button that’s all.. I blew a fuse on the same adapter that runs on the furnace and all it needed was a reset on the button..Works fine now. :)
I had no idea what the problem was that’s why I’m watching your video but thanks to your good work I now have a place to start on mine so thank you much
Very helpful, we're traveling and it's snowing and no heat except for generator and portable heater and electric blanket! We'll try and fix it, thks , Scott
great diagnosis. Most furnaces are like yours. Some will use a Camstat which is a combination timer. Viewers should just make note of what should be open and which should be closed. Great explanation.
I was able to go and fix mine, the part is like $11, and you can pull the furnace panel off on the inside of the trailer. Not needing to pull the entire furnace out. Went well for me.
I believe this helped. Won't know until I test the limit switch, which, if what you say is true about the black and white wires up front, I can test the continuity of the limit switch from there without pulling the furnace out.
I thought you done good buddy but you did figure it out I’ve got the same problem that’s going to save me time and thanks again buddy for the video and educating me on how it works 👍
Thank you very very very much I just put a new one in in November and it quit four weeks ago the blower works but it will not at night now I know what to look for thank you God bless you
Very informative. Thank you Sir! Gives me the confidence to look at mine. I know models will vary but I hope it will be as easy to work on as yours was. Ours too is a Suburban heater, but I don't know the model number. Will also look up your water heater vid as well!
I love the video. But when you tested the sale switch for continuity I thought that the very next move would be to test for voltage (in and out)at the SWITCH.
Good job with your video. A few years ago I had a problem with my board. I had it replaced by a mobil RV repair man. Now that we are in winter I’m ordering a sail switch and high limit switch just incase something goes wrong. You did an excellent job explaining how to diagnose and repair the problem👍🏻. BTW, I would have done the same thing if I wanted a new Dinosaur board.
Thank you so much for your video! I have a 1999 winnebago 31C and heater stop blowing a warm air, its was freezing cold. After watching your video, I went to RV dealer bought a limit switch $12 ( I have a SF30 model) and its WORKS!!! Why I went with a limit switch first? because my sail switch and my electrode was working fine. SO, thank you so much your video was very helphull ,God Bless!
Those switches are also known as Thermistor.. or thermal fuse. They are on most things that apply heat.. dryers for example.. in desperate times it can be taken out and hit on something hard to reset them. I even seen putting them in the freezer for a while.
I replaced my board like you did and now I will see if I can find the other switch that you changed out. Wish me luck. My furnace is under my sofa . I think. I have a 2014 Avenger ATI 26bb. Wish me luck. And thank you so much for your video.
Thank you for takin the time to put this very informative vid together I do believe i have the same issue so will go by your process of elimination to chk it out ..cheers Safe Travels ..Tommy from the NuiMarie 🎎
Even using the process of elimination method you will save money by not not paying a repair guy to do it. We like to figure things out for ourselves and spend that money elsewhere. Research, watch videos, read blogs...it’s all about learning to do it ourselves IMO. Keep me posted on your progress.
One December 2007 we were in Todos Santos B.C. in a 96 class c and the blower would kick inn but no heat, So after I took it apart I found mud nest's in the exhaust, I just cleaned it out and it worked just fine the rest of the Trip.
Woke up to no heat this am. Fan blew & shut itself off. No heat just air. I found your video & after it stops raining I’ll go out & start assessing. Thank you so much.
Thank you for the video. Very informative and easy to understand for dumb dumbs like me. Great went out on my hunting trip but now I know what to look for when I get home. Thanks again.
Two things that you really need to understand: First, digital voltmeters will actually show power when there actually is none. it will pick up what is called an induced voltage. Always keep a test light around just in case. This one thing has caused many incorrect diagnostics. Second, a limit switch can be one of two types; NC which means Normally Closed and NO which means normally open. In your case, yours would be normally closed to allow power through up until it gets too hot then opens and shuts the system down. In some cases, you could also have a normally open switch that closes when the system gets too hot and trips a warning light/buzzer/etc. When you tested yours, it is important to understand that it is supposed to be normally closed for normal operation.
@@JPetersU2ube It really isn't an idiot light. It's a valuable tool in anybody's bag. The only thing that might make it an idiot light is that a person doesn't know how to use it properly. Calling someone an idiot for using one is pretty pretentious on your part.
@@JPetersU2ube I understand but it is called an idiot light because it is supposed to be so simple to use an idiot could do it. Unless you understand what it's telling you, and have it hooked up correctly, it really won't help that much.
Once you proofed the Sail Switch then went to the board I knew it had to be that limit switch. I change more of those than I do anything else. They also use them in microwave ovens. (Any appliance that uses heat.) The main fail point on most microwaves. On House dryers you can slap them on the ground and get them to work well enough while you wait for your new one to show up. They are just thermal switches that bend in heat and break contacts when it get too hot. Slapping them on the ground will bend the plates back to where tha contacts contact again. Only issue is the thermal plate is weaker now and will open sooner. So go ahead and replce them if they open up and stay opened.
Great vid. Only one issue!!! Seen this happen to a rental RVer, some service guy turned that little black switch to off. Either by intent or by accident. In either case they had no heat and service guy only showed up the next day after a cold night. In closing, WHY did you want the new board???
Temp..aka snap switches are notorious for failing in the open position..when they get over their heat trip point...they are supposed to open the circuit to disable power to the inlet gas valve..in other words..they fail in a safe condition...good job showing the process...
Guess you could take the white wire going to the relay switch and the black wire to the sail switch and check it for continuity to check of the limit relay is bad?
Great video. I am having issues with the following scenario: the sail switch has continuity, but the fan does not spin. Do you think I should check the limit switch at the back? Thanks in advance
Nice video! I have this exact furnace and recently replaced the rooftop unit and thermostat. Ever since, my furnace has not worked. Won't try to run at all. The schematic looks like if I just put the two blue t-stat wires together, the furnace should run. Those wires connect to others that disappear up into the coach, and the wires I have connected at the rooftop terminals are different colors. lol I've got to trace them out, but I wonder if you could verify that just connecting the t-stat wires together will activate the furnace. Thanks
Even though you’re not a professional repair person, I learned more about the heater from this video than any others I watched. Thank you for being throughout.😎
The High limit switch and the sail switch is the proof circuit and both have to work for the circuit board to tell the burner to work. Great video.
An rv technician said 90% of furnace failures are either sail switch or high temp limit switch. Great video very informative!
You did a good job! And one thing I might add. Hi-limits, some are resettable, yours was not. As a furnace repair man, I have found in most cases, you have fixed a symptom not a cause. Check the filter, air return and registers to be clean and open. Inadequate air flow is why the hi-limit is tripping. But yes, they can just go bad.
Thank you so mucha for your comment you educated us as well!!!!!
I'm a fulltime RV'er. I am currently in the woods and the temp just dropped below 60. We have no shore power here and the generator quit. I got a wife, and 2 kids under 4. And no heat.
Until I watched this video. Our problems were different. But I'm would never have looked under the stove to check the back of the furnace. I had wires melted And cob webs everywhere. I simply removed all cob webs. Pulled off the connector adjusted a loose wire and bingo I got great. Thank you. And yes I did this at 1 am.
Enjoyed your video and I really appreciate you admitting and showing your mistake. That my friend was worth the price of admission!!
That was one of the best RV furnace videos I have watched. BRAVO!!
I see that this video is three years old but it is the best description of RV furnace trouble shooting that I have come across. Well done.
Even though you bought an unneeded part, it was still cheaper and a great learning experience by doing it yourself!
Thank you for sharing your experiance. I'm headed back out the door to figure out whats going on at the sail and limit switch. I am also a big fan of Dinosaur Electronics and do have one on my water heater.
Okay it's fixed! I used your information and in about 2 minutes I confirmed I did not have a complete circuit through through the limit switch. After much pain and frustration we managed to remove the furnace. When I removed the rear cover to expose the limit switch I found 1 wire disconnected. I tested the switch and connected to wire. I confirmed continuity then reinstalled and test fired the furnace. It appears to be the result of sloppy workmanship at the Suburban assembly plant. We recently moved the rig home from our summer camping location and I assume a bump in the road somewhere was enough to knock this wire off. No way could it have ever been properly installed. I've just been lucky it was working up to this point. I still don't have a Dinosaur control board but we are warm. Thanks again for your video. I owe you dinner my friend! Jeff Schramm
Awesome video good sir. After watching your video, I tested and replaced my limit switch. Worked like a charm. Dry camping is back on the menu. Mine must have went out when it was constantly running when the temp dropped to -7 deg ambient.
THANKS. GREAT JOB. YOU'RE THE BEST. BETTER THAN MOST OF THE PROFESSIONALS ON TH-cam.
Very nice. I like the "logic flow" and physical tracing of the wiring. Makes things easy to understand.
Crazy, I just pulled mine out for cleaning yesterday. I have to pull mine out from inside and they did not give me enough wire to get it out. That's an upgrade for a later time. Oops, at least you have upgraded the board in the heater. Heat, at last! Awesome troubleshooting. You explained this very well, I learned alot. Thanks for showing us all the procedures.
Nice educational video. My problem was just a loose blade connector on the limit switch. But I wouldn’t have figured that out without your video. Thanks.
Very professional you otta be in movies😊
Very informative! I'm going to try to fix mine now. I love that you showed us how you found your mistake. Good trouble shooting info.
Sometimes the best way is to learn from mistakes..great video 🤓
I didn't know what the problem was. You definitely taught me something new. Thanks
Thanks for this, I was able to understand how my system works, and I was able to fix my unit!
That’s great!! Glad we could help!
Great video! I loved the fact that you bought the extra un-needed part, which was a great learning opportunity. Thanks for making this video. I am off to work on my 1998 Motorhome heater.
I can do ANYTHING related to building a house, including the wiring. But working on appliance electronics? Not so much. Great job!
I have watched upwards of 300 videos including a lot of yours to help me understand my new to me 2006 coachman motor home. I have yet to have an issue with appliances, but I know exactly what to check thanks to you and the others willing to put up videos.
Thanks.
I am glad my videos help and thank you so much for watching.
Just found your channel while looking how to fix my 1994 Fleetwood Flair furnace. This helps so much, I truly appreciate it! I first blew out the furnace which worked last year. Per my manual I ran the blower 3 times to blow out the system but no luckl Our furnaces look very similar. I will check my fuses then check everything you did here. Look forward to watching more of your videos, thank you!
Great video my Atwood Heater is not coming on. Im gonna check everything you showed us and see what the problem is.
Thanks so much!
Thank you for this video. I followed its instructions and fixed mine. It had a bad connection at the limit switch. One thing I noticed is that on newer RV's, (mines a 2018) , they relocated the board , the sail switch , and the limit switch to right inside the cover. It was so easy. When the factory put mine together, they didn't push the spade connector on far enough.
Wow..glad you guys checked it out! Have a good one! Blessings!
Invaluable Information! It's better to have all new especially when your in a Rig and could get caught in the middle of nowhere. Thanks
Great detailed video! You did a good job trouble shooting and explaining. I had no idea what to look for. Now I after watching you, i feel like I can tackle this no problem!
THANKS
Very good information on the heating system.. I just had the same issue blower turned on but no ignition and just blew cool air then shut off in about 15/30 seconds.. Probably was the reset button that’s all.. I blew a fuse on the same adapter that runs on the furnace and all it needed was a reset on the button..Works fine now. :)
older thread but 5 star rating thank you
You did good! I thought it was the sail switch. Was waiting for you to attempt a start to see if it would close on its own.
I had no idea what the problem was that’s why I’m watching your video but thanks to your good work I now have a place to start on mine so thank you much
Very helpful, we're traveling and it's snowing and no heat except for generator and portable heater and electric blanket! We'll try and fix it, thks , Scott
great diagnosis. Most furnaces are like yours. Some will use a Camstat which is a combination timer. Viewers should just make note of what should be open and which should be closed. Great explanation.
Helpful video. Did not know how to test the high limit switch. Now u know better. Thanks!
I was able to go and fix mine, the part is like $11, and you can pull the furnace panel off on the inside of the trailer. Not needing to pull the entire furnace out. Went well for me.
Best RV furnace troubleshooting video I’ve seen! Thank you so much!
I believe this helped. Won't know until I test the limit switch, which, if what you say is true about the black and white wires up front, I can test the continuity of the limit switch from there without pulling the furnace out.
No better feeling than the accomplishment of hard work.
I thought you done good buddy but you did figure it out I’ve got the same problem that’s going to save me time and thanks again buddy for the video and educating me on how it works 👍
Sir, you did a excellent work. Thank you
Lots of necessary hard work. always good to be handy when you own an rv. glad your heater is working now. i didn't know what the problem was.
Thank you!! Finally a thorough explanation of operation.
i am having a similiar problem i think you really helped. going to try to use your advice
Thank you very very very much I just put a new one in in November and it quit four weeks ago the blower works but it will not at night now I know what to look for thank you God bless you
Very informative. Thank you Sir! Gives me the confidence to look at mine. I know models will vary but I hope it will be as easy to work on as yours was. Ours too is a Suburban heater, but I don't know the model number. Will also look up your water heater vid as well!
I love the video. But when you tested the sale switch for continuity I thought that the very next move would be to test for voltage (in and out)at the SWITCH.
I was hoping you would try the limit switch first, but this is like my 3rd furnace video today, lol
Still learned something, so thanks.
Good job with your video. A few years ago I had a problem with my board. I had it replaced by a mobil RV repair man. Now that we are in winter I’m ordering a sail switch and high limit switch just incase something goes wrong. You did an excellent job explaining how to diagnose and repair the problem👍🏻. BTW, I would have done the same thing if I wanted a new Dinosaur board.
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for your video! I have a 1999 winnebago 31C and heater stop blowing a warm air, its was freezing cold. After watching your video, I went to RV dealer bought a limit switch $12 ( I have a SF30 model) and its WORKS!!! Why I went with a limit switch first? because my sail switch and my electrode was working fine. SO, thank you so much your video was very helphull ,God Bless!
GREAT JOB AND REALLY ENJOYING YOUR PRESENTATION!
Yes it did help me out in mine was the limit switch have one on order now thanks
Those switches are also known as Thermistor.. or thermal fuse. They are on most things that apply heat.. dryers for example.. in desperate times it can be taken out and hit on something hard to reset them. I even seen putting them in the freezer for a while.
Thanks 4 the vid. You gave enough information that saved me from taking it to the shop.
GREAT VIDEO!! Explained very well and easy!!! Thanks!!!
I replaced my board like you did and now I will see if I can find the other switch that you changed out. Wish me luck. My furnace is under my sofa . I think. I have a 2014 Avenger ATI 26bb. Wish me luck. And thank you so much for your video.
Well I’ll I done order a new board and install. And not working. So I’ll start ordering that relay. Thanks for the video
Thank you for describing the steps in what powers up first.
very well job on pointing things out keep up the good work
Thank you for takin the time to put this very informative vid together I do believe i have the same issue so will go by your process of elimination to chk it out ..cheers Safe Travels ..Tommy from the NuiMarie 🎎
Even using the process of elimination method you will save money by not not paying a repair guy to do it. We like to figure things out for ourselves and spend that money elsewhere. Research, watch videos, read blogs...it’s all about learning to do it ourselves IMO. Keep me posted on your progress.
Great video dude....
One December 2007 we were in Todos Santos B.C. in a 96 class c and the blower would kick inn but no heat, So after I took it apart I found mud nest's in the exhaust, I just cleaned it out and it worked just fine the rest of the Trip.
Great job!! Yes I did from experience!!
This was the most helpful video I've ever seen for anything..
Thanks for the video. This is useful info for diagnosing any furnace.
Thanks for doing this video. Now I think I know enough to take a crack out of fixing my furnace. Great informative video.
Good luck to you. Most RVer’s learn as we go, so let me know what you find out about yours.
Great video ! I would have measured the voltage going in and out of the sail switch
Woke up to no heat this am. Fan blew & shut itself off. No heat just air. I found your video & after it stops raining I’ll go out & start assessing. Thank you so much.
Thank you for the video. Very informative and easy to understand for dumb dumbs like me. Great went out on my hunting trip but now I know what to look for when I get home. Thanks again.
I love this guy!
Two things that you really need to understand: First, digital voltmeters will actually show power when there actually is none. it will pick up what is called an induced voltage. Always keep a test light around just in case. This one thing has caused many incorrect diagnostics.
Second, a limit switch can be one of two types; NC which means Normally Closed and NO which means normally open. In your case, yours would be normally closed to allow power through up until it gets too hot then opens and shuts the system down. In some cases, you could also have a normally open switch that closes when the system gets too hot and trips a warning light/buzzer/etc.
When you tested yours, it is important to understand that it is supposed to be normally closed for normal operation.
An idiot light is a wonderful thing
The power LED on the control board is also helpful
@@JPetersU2ube It really isn't an idiot light. It's a valuable tool in anybody's bag. The only thing that might make it an idiot light is that a person doesn't know how to use it properly. Calling someone an idiot for using one is pretty pretentious on your part.
@@HueToobBlows An idiot light is a wonderful thing is a compliment
Two states light on or light off
KISS: Keep It Simple Stupid
@@JPetersU2ube I understand but it is called an idiot light because it is supposed to be so simple to use an idiot could do it. Unless you understand what it's telling you, and have it hooked up correctly, it really won't help that much.
Thanks, looking forward to your next video.
Once you proofed the Sail Switch then went to the board I knew it had to be that limit switch. I change more of those than I do anything else. They also use them in microwave ovens. (Any appliance that uses heat.)
The main fail point on most microwaves.
On House dryers you can slap them on the ground and get them to work well enough while you wait for your new one to show up. They are just thermal switches that bend in heat and break contacts when it get too hot. Slapping them on the ground will bend the plates back to where tha contacts contact again. Only issue is the thermal plate is weaker now and will open sooner. So go ahead and replce them if they open up and stay opened.
I didn’t realize they were used in so many appliances! Good to know!
The limit sits on the heat exchanger, great video, you do better than most, thanks for helping people.
Muchas Gracias por su video muy bien echo y muy informativo aprendí muchísimo gracias felizes campamentos
I have the same issue.. I don't think it is the sail switch.. got to look today. Ty for giving me more comprehensive options. 👍
No problem. Hope you were able to solve this issue on your rig!
Good job, I'm learning. thanks for posting.
Outstanding! Thanks a bunch... great info!
Great vid.
Only one issue!!!
Seen this happen to a rental RVer, some service guy turned that little black switch to off. Either by intent or by accident. In either case they had no heat and service guy only showed up the next day after a cold night.
In closing, WHY did you want the new board???
Great video!
Thanks for sharing
Live and learn.
Very nice done, thank you so much for sharing.
Do you have the part numbers for the board and limit switch? Nice video.
Temp..aka snap switches are notorious for failing in the open position..when they get over their heat trip point...they are supposed to open the circuit to disable power to the inlet gas valve..in other words..they fail in a safe condition...good job showing the process...
Guess you could take the white wire going to the relay switch and the black wire to the sail switch and check it for continuity to check of the limit relay is bad?
Great video, sir!
Good Info. Mine blows air but doesn't light
I did not know. Thanks for video!
This video was very helpful. Thanks!
Muy bien amino. Unque no eyes mecanico. Me ayudaste mucho muchas gracias. DIOS TE BENDIGA
I have the same problem but don’t fix it yet either the board or the limit switch, thank for sharing
Good work!
Great video. I am having issues with the following scenario: the sail switch has continuity, but the fan does not spin. Do you think I should check the limit switch at the back? Thanks in advance
Awesome video. Thanks.
Nice video! I have this exact furnace and recently replaced the rooftop unit and thermostat. Ever since, my furnace has not worked. Won't try to run at all. The schematic looks like if I just put the two blue t-stat wires together, the furnace should run. Those wires connect to others that disappear up into the coach, and the wires I have connected at the rooftop terminals are different colors. lol I've got to trace them out, but I wonder if you could verify that just connecting the t-stat wires together will activate the furnace. Thanks
Great video. My suburban furnace is blowing air then shuts off. I know what to check now.
Always nice to learn to fix stuff on rv. Thank you!
Thanks.now I can fix my furnace
Great video. What do you like so much about dinosaur control boards?
I jumped the board and mine started working crazy stuff
Great don't give up video. Thank you