⬇️Things used in this video: 1. Flare Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kGaeGm 2. Large Screwdriver: amzn.to/2igwntV 3. Flashlight: amzn.to/2kwtiu3 4. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY 5. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 6. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 7. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jGDfkA 8. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 9. Common Sense 10. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 11. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 12. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 13. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Scotty, you should really warn people to stop driving immediately. Once the fluid runs dry there will be no more stopping power. Based on your video it almost sounds like you're recommending to drive the car to buy a new brake master cylinder. I know it's kind of common sense but maybe not to everybody watching your videos ;)
Scotty Kilmer. Hey scotty i have a question that no one can fix nor google nor TH-cam i have a 1999 nissan frontier my a/c and my heater are perfect but when i turn the knob to blow through the front vents nothing comes out it only blows on the defrost and thats frustrating maybe u can reslove it "
That 4 runner endured 250K miles of tornado chasing hell and was still running strong when I sold it... Seats included :D. Super thanks to Scotty for keeping it going all those years!
Chasing tornados sounds like fun I’m retired now live in Canada 🇨🇦 7 hrs north of Minneapolis, we get a few tornadoes here every five years or so Where can I get educated on tornado chasing ? Did u go to a tornado type teaching school?
I just diagnosed and replaced a failed brake master cylinder on my 1986 Chevy K20 truck. $55 at Napa plus 16 oz of brake fluid, half an hour of time and done. And my 16 year old son helped me with the whole deal. He was very pleased to do the process from start to finish. Then we checked all the fluids. A great father and son activity and easily saved me 30-60 minutes of shop time.
Scotty! You're the man! The industry hates you for informing those who need to be informed because we all know how dirty this industry is. My first mechanic job I was taught exactly how to pull money from unbroken parts. Best example is selling tuneups to long time customers who happen to be old innocent ladies, every year. Your $30 oil change just became an$850 expedition. Poor folks. I do all the work on my family cars and many times my mom or sister would come back from a garage after an oil change and say the guy said I need new glow plugs! On a Lexus! They'll sell you shit your car doesn't even have. Fucking snakes! Bless you Scotty. I wish you were my neighbor.
SuperBrokenFingers It's amazing hearing how dishonest the auto mechanic industry can be. Maybe it's because it's so easy to hide the fact that parts aren't broken? Compared to other businesses. I like to see the old parts they took out. (But I usually do my own work) Sometimes mechanics don't even put new parts in...or if they do, you can see that the old part isn't bad.
Had problems with my brakes on my 1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4(4 cylinder). Replaced the front calipers (tried to take off the brake line on both but they snapped and lost all the fluid in the master cylinder) and the rear brake pads. Found out that the pedal went to the floor, figured it was the power booster (it wasn't) and got a used one from a 1994 Toyota pickup. Still the pedal went down and thought about the master cylinder. Here it was and I ordered the replacement part on Sunday and got it yesterday and did what Scotty said to do to bleed it. Got pressure back and bled the brakes and it's better than ever. Thanks for the tips Scotty!
Fixed our 1994 Chevy K1500 today using this technique. We had already bled the brakes to no avail, and also bypassed the rear-anti-lock module which is reported to cause problems... so I got the replacement master cylinder and used Scotty's technique here... had a firm, hard brake pedal in about 3 minutes. :) Scotty, you're awesome--keep up the good work! :)
This video saved my life 2 days ago. My brake pedal hit the floor and thanks to you Scotty, I knew to check for leaks and found my rear brake line had burst and had no brakes. You are a hero in my book!
When I first saw your channel, I was like (yup) my go to guy! I live in Maine and as a woman, you better believe I can get down and dirty. It's hard to find a reliable and honest mechanic. Thank you for being you (don't change your personality) and sharing your knowledge and wisdom with others. Rock On!
to each his own, I never bench bleed, this method works fine if done correctly as in the video. You can bleed the whole system, but often that will lead to leaks in an older system, believe me.
Scotty, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!! The instructions you gave were perfect. Took only 45 minutes to change and bleed the master cylinder. It would have been less if I didn't need to remove the air filter to make it easier to reach the master cylinder. Keep giving the great advice and help. You make it easy for the weekend warrior to take on jobs that seem impossible. Thank you!-Phil
Great tips Scotty! I just find a gravel or dirt road and speed up to 20 or 25mph and do 3 or 4 emergency stops making sure the ABS kicks on. Then go back and bleed the system again. It works because air can be trapped inside the ABS Module and it is very difficult to remove the air using traditional bleeding methods. By activating the ABS, the air is pushed to the calipers and allow the air to be removed via bleeding. Of course, if you have the computer programs to do this without driving on a dirt/gravel road, then use those. But for those who don't, this works well.
My abs hasn’t worked for years. It’s just standard brakes now which I prefer. Question… with the abs system not functioning could this cause any issues with the rest of the braking system? Hydraulics, air, and the old fluid still in those abs lines 🤔 I just have abs light on dash with a sticker over it. 😁
I had not tried anything like changing out a MC, and would never have taken this on . But after watching this video, I did it and this is hands down the best instructional video out there. Thank you so much. This video belongs in the instructional video Hall of Fame!!!
Scotty, another great video- I've seen quite a few of yours; you're a go to guy for my automotive woes. I've worked on cars since 1990- even before, but that's when it became necessity to learn and remember. This video really opened my eyes to brake jobs past where I never got the pedal I wanted. I usually bench bled and followed that with repeated 4 corners bleeding. Sometimes I just could not get a satisfactory result after gallons of brake fluid bled through the lines. I was surprised to see you forgo standard and accepted practice of bench bleeding on, well, a bench. After watching thios video, I was able to bleed a vintage Camaro to a rock hard pedal after getting NO PEDAL even after replacing a booster, master cyl, shoes and hardware, and a new Combination Valve. In ten minutes tonight, I bled the best brake job I've ever done. I'm book marking all my PCs and making notes in the braking section of all my manuals. Keep on truckin'.
This Great Video by Scotty got me to go ahead with the replacement after he said to disregard the bench bleeding. It worked great on my 2001 Sport trac with ABS. There is a bleed port on my master cylinder opposite side of the brake lines. It made it real quick to get the air out along with the technique Scotty showed.
My abs quit years ago. It doesn’t effect my braking… that I know of. No grabbing. With the abs not working could this cause issues with the hydraulics, air in those lines and old fluid? I prefer just standard braking system from 20 years of living in Alaska without it. Alaskan winter mantra… “slow down, pay attention, increase your distance and feather your brakes.” Haven’t had an accident with anyone in all my years of driving. Defensive driving class for Forestry many years ago stuck with me.
Hahaha I imagine that someone out there saw this video and bought a giant screwdriver instead of using a piece of wood or metal pipe or another person! Trolling level 100
Hey Scotty, I just wanted to say thank you for your advice! I was able to put a new master cylinder on my Tahoe today and used your bleeding at the MC trick.. it was a time saver and I didn’t have to take off a single tire to reach the bleeder screws! I’ll bleed like that from here on out, I typically have to do everything by myself. ❤
I have a 2010 HHR I changed my front brakes Pads. And I also bleed the brakes and I still have a sinks brake pedal now I know what I need to do. Thank you Scotty God bless you my brother. Amen
did the master cylinder fix your brake pedal feel? I have 09 chevy cobalt basically the car version of the HHR. I did the front brake pads but still have that sinking brake pad feel.
I fixed my car brake issue/problem based on your "Video: How to fix a brake pedal that sinks...". Great guidance on car maintenance with a fun, creative approach from the God of car technology. I kindly Thank you.
Scotty, finally the mystery is solved. It was bad / leaking brake calipers. Lesson learned, never rebuild them with repair kits. Just buy new calipers. Installed new ones and i feel my brakes again. No sinking, either engine running or not, hard as they must be. Thank You Scotty for your patience and help you gave me. I really appreciate that.
I got an 01 Corolla, the guy bled the right rear wheel . (No foot on the brake bleeding procedure)until bubbles came out. He said the brake pedal always went to the floor and the master cylinder never goes low
I tried to bleed my brakes multiple times after new pads and rotors and hitting a dear first. lol.... Hit a dear first but not bad......just clipped it, but had to stomp on my brakes hard like 2 or 3 times. lol....Ruptured a front brake line so had to be replaced first. Then a week later decided to go ahead and replace pads and brake rotors. Pedal got better after bleeding but only for a couple weeks....got all mushy again and back to the floor. So....makes me think my master cylinder is leaking inside and went bad cause we checked and didn't see nothing leaking or wet underneath. lol... So great video to post Scotty!! Was very helpful man!
You make it look so easy. Of course being in the field for 40 + years, I'm sure most things become second nature after awhile. I've watched several of your videos within the past 30 minutes or so and I am loving them. :)
Thanks for the video. I didn't know there was such thing as having to bleed the master cylinder. I thought I would have to take off all the wheels and bleed each brake (pain). With the assistance of my 9yo, we bleed the brake mc as you instructed, and now it STOPS! Thanks again. Liking and subscribing.
Brother I just replaced my brake master cylinder I’ve been bleeding for almost an hour I’ve got a 08 Chevy 2500hd and I’ve been reading there may be air in the abs? I don’t know what to try next , im going to drink a beer and go to sleep I’ll try again tomorrow
Felix Sanchez I need help I tried this video method but still goes to the floor with zero resistance. How could my master cylinder break from doing the brakes?
I actually followed this guide and was able to change my master cylinder myself, thank you Scotty. Could have been nice if you warned us about the master cylinder would squirt brake fluid if the brakes are pressed and the lines are loosened. Found out the hard way.
slow braking is often a weak master cylinder or weak booster.Worn pads stop as well as non worn pads, they just start making noise and eating up things when they get down to bare metal.
Sienna 2001, Just installed brand new master cylinder, new rear brakes drums, front brakes only 15k miles on them, the brake pedal still goes far down before slowing the car, it stops fine, just not happy with how far down it goes before it stops the car, thanks a lot, your awesome
first when you replace a master cylinder , you bench bleed the master. second after the master is installed you bleed the complete system. best thing is to flush the system. with no cap on the master you better replace all the brake fluid before contamination ruins the seals.
Well I am not a mechanic with Scotty's experience. However, when I changed a master cylinder the instructions said to bench bleed the master cylinder before installation as you have stated, and came with special tubes to do this. Furthermore, I too have read many many times that moisture in a brake system is taboo. Consequently, I don't understand why you would not just flush out all that suspect brake fluid while you have the system open. Finally, I am in shock that anyone would not replace the cap, and can't believe the brakes even worked with that plastic on the top. In fact, I am SURE the brakes would not work that way.
@@timbarnes3581 to be honest, I have installed many "Master cylinders" and do my own brakes, calipers,etc. AND HAVE NEVER flushed my brake fluid in any car I have owned. I have owned the same trucks, vans and 1 car for 20-30 + years and NEVER had an issue because I never changed the fluid.
@@lt4324 Well thanks for the info Tom. Obviously Scotty has worked on cars for many years. But when you change a master cylinder do you bench bleed them? I have only done one master cylinder myself and that is what the instructions said to do. However, I know there are shortcuts that work as well. I only flushed a system one time myself and that is because there was a lot of rust in the lines from a cylinder on one of the rear brakes, but that truck was like 25 years old and had sat for a number of years without running.
@@timbarnes3581 Yes, Being only myself, I did bench bleed and if I had to bleed all lines, I used a "power Bleeder" when doing it by myself. But then again, I have NEVER had to change a MC on my current vehicles (all plastic MC) The ones I used to change were "all metal" like on an old 86 Ford E150, Cadillacs, etc. I have yet to install these new ALL plastic MC's So in that respect I can say no. Only bench bled the older ones. BUT I am guessing you still need to bench bleed them.
Scotty, you're amazing brother. Two of your videos has been helped me with my mercury mystique. Now, my cap is fine, so I'll just bleed the air out. You're a godsend
I’ve watched the videos every time I need help & knowledge of my vehicles, and he’s been awesome and saved me a lot of time & money. Thanks a bunch brother!!!
Hey Scotty, I’m in the 101st right now I LOVE your videos. I got a bunch of car guys here to start watching you. I doubt you’ll even see this comment. But at the end of the video can say about how long it will take to do the job? I love the fact that you only put in the parts that we need and the video is short. But because of that it’s hard to get a sense of time for how long the job will take. I appreciate all you do man. AIR ASSAULT
Unfortunately I wasn't able to buy a new power booster and master cylinder I could only buy both remanufactured for my 1978 Dodge Aspen Custom Sedan I just bought.
I didn't either, not sure if it matters but I did bleed the whole system big time. It has rust in the master reservoir. It is a good thing to change fluid every 5 years? Beats me, when it gets ugly tho
I wish I had seen this video today before me and dad put new pads on the front of her everything good there . Then we adjusted the back breaks everything good there. I say that could be the problem. She’s 2007 she got over 7000 Km runs perfect! Thank you for the video😊
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
Hi Scotty, love the videos. I've got an '04 Tacoma that I took up for an oil change a month back that has been given be grief ever since. During the oil change they also changed the brake fluid. They recommended I replace the engine valve cover gasket but I decided against that initially. Shortly after my car starting smelling of burnt fuel every time I drove around. I took the car back and it turned out that oil was leaking from the engine (of course this hadn't happened before the oil change). I took the truck back and had the valve cover gasket replaced then as I was driving off the lot I noticed my brakes were very stiff and difficult to depress. I went back and my mechanic checked the vaccuum pressure (good) and said my brake booster was bad. Again, this had not been an issue before I took it in. Since then I have also noticed that my tires (I think it's the tires) squeal when I turn the wheel all the way. I assume all of these symptoms are related. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
thank u soo much for this video!!! I just did this on my 05 Silverado. the master cylinder was bad and started to leak brake fliud inside of my booster.. I pumped out the liquid from the booster and replaced the master cylinder and that did it.!!!
Having an issue with my 2000 integra...abs light is on and the pedal sinks to the ground...it will build pressure if i pump it but once i start driving the pedal will sink to the floor again and the only way i can get them to stop is if im constantly pumping the brake...i have brake fluid and there is no leaks ..what could be the issue? I need to fix it asap bc its dangerous as hell driving like this please respond
Well, not the same vehicle, but I have a 02 Ford f150. Had a sinking pedal halfway down. Changed master, still there. Found that the ABS unit was leaking by, and causing the rear system to bypass. New ABS unit fixed all!! Best brakes EVER!!!!!
Scotty my Corolla creeps forward at a red light cause the brake pedal goes down, forcing me to step on it to compensate, or place it in neutral. Same procedure as the video?
Thank you iv bin dealing with brake issues for about a month now replace all my brakes drums sucked but all brand new and my brakes still fail so now I know what I'm doing this weekend
the brake pedal sank to the floor while my husband was driving home one night. He had to be really slow and had to step on the break even when he was still far from where he needed to stop. so glad he made it home safe. I have been interested in learning stuff like this. Would be cool to be able to fix our own car troubles, at least the non major ones. Thank you Scotty!
Scotty I've watched all your videos. (Well not em all). And you have really helped me in my auto mechanic adventures. And I just absolutely love the beginning and ends of your videos
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
Scotty, another "pro tip". Check the rear seal on the old master cylinder. If it leaked then inspect the brake vacuum booster for fluid. I poured almost a QUART of fluid out of mine once!
Scotty, I am having trouble identifying why my brake pedal is sinking to the floor, at first, I discovered one of the calipers on the passenger side was bad, that made me to change not only the caliper, but the front brake pads, however, checked the rear brakes were in good condition, no leaks from either wheels. My main problem, the pedal is still depressed all the way to the floor, now the car does stop when you engage in gear, the emergency brake applied, what is the problem, is it the booster or the master cylinder?
Godwin anetekhai often a bad master cylinder, and here's a test. If it does it with engine not running and engine running too, a bad master is often it. BUT, if it is hard with engine off, but drops with engine on, the booster is bad
Thanks you very much Scotty for your helpfully tips. I been a grease monkey all my life but my dad never thought me the in and out. I'm like a pro amateur mechanic but not an expert like you. You are a number #1 on my book...
Hi Scotty, I have a weird one for you. Several people posted on a Jeep forum regarding this issue. Jeep Liberty CRD with diesel engine and ABS system. The brake pedal will start to feel soft. If you keep pressure on it the pedal will slowly go to the floor but not light up the red brake warning light. I replaced all four sets of brake pads which were down to the last 2000 miles and bled all four calipers but that did not fix it. I hired the master cylinder replaced, so it was done at a shop professionally. The master cylinder did NOT fix the issue. It was a new one, not used. Then we have a red brake warning light. The repair shop could not find a code. Took it to Jeep dealer, they could not find a code either. There are no leaks, never were. I now suspect something internal with the ABS system You might not find one since they only built them for two years in limited numbers. But there ARE Jeep Libertys aplenty with the 3.7 gas engine. If you could find one with ABS it would be interesting if you could provide feedback. Does it do the same thing? Oh one more thing, the CRD Liberty master has two vacuum lines to it, the gas version only one. I'm not sure what that has to do with it.
![กิโลเมตรที่ 0 เดินทางรอบโลกไม่ใช้เครื่องบิน [Around The World Ep. 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/toJG9oofLFY/mqdefault.jpg)
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Scotty Kilmer Are all the cars you drive in the beginning yours, like the BOSS 302 in the beginning of this video?
Scotty, you should really warn people to stop driving immediately. Once the fluid runs dry there will be no more stopping power. Based on your video it almost sounds like you're recommending to drive the car to buy a new brake master cylinder. I know it's kind of common sense but maybe not to everybody watching your videos ;)
3:49 "hard as a rock "not really what you want for your brakes
once all brake pads are firmly pressed against the rotors, you don't want any further movement in the pedal. if you do, it means there is a leak.
Scotty Kilmer. Hey scotty i have a question that no one can fix nor google nor TH-cam i have a 1999 nissan frontier my a/c and my heater are perfect but when i turn the knob to blow through the front vents nothing comes out it only blows on the defrost and thats frustrating maybe u can reslove it "
That 4 runner endured 250K miles of tornado chasing hell and was still running strong when I sold it... Seats included :D. Super thanks to Scotty for keeping it going all those years!
Pecos Hank wow why you sold it ?? People are baying like crazy, I own one to : 96 v6 3.4L like yours . ..
I laughed when I saw the seats cause my leather interior 3rd gen 4Runner's looked exactly the same!!
Chasing tornados sounds like fun
I’m retired now live in Canada 🇨🇦 7 hrs north of Minneapolis, we get a few tornadoes here every five years or so
Where can I get educated on tornado chasing ?
Did u go to a tornado type teaching school?
Pecos Hank thank you
I knew that car looked familiar!! Lol Hank would use plastic to fix the cap
I just diagnosed and replaced a failed brake master cylinder on my 1986 Chevy K20 truck. $55 at Napa plus 16 oz of brake fluid, half an hour of time and done. And my 16 year old son helped me with the whole deal. He was very pleased to do the process from start to finish. Then we checked all the fluids. A great father and son activity and easily saved me 30-60 minutes of shop time.
Scotty! You're the man! The industry hates you for informing those who need to be informed because we all know how dirty this industry is. My first mechanic job I was taught exactly how to pull money from unbroken parts. Best example is selling tuneups to long time customers who happen to be old innocent ladies, every year. Your $30 oil change just became an$850 expedition. Poor folks. I do all the work on my family cars and many times my mom or sister would come back from a garage after an oil change and say the guy said I need new glow plugs! On a Lexus! They'll sell you shit your car doesn't even have. Fucking snakes! Bless you Scotty. I wish you were my neighbor.
SuperBrokenFingers I think you need a muffler bearing it'll run you about 300$. Lol
SuperBrokenFingers It's amazing hearing how dishonest the auto mechanic industry can be. Maybe it's because it's so easy to hide the fact that parts aren't broken? Compared to other businesses. I like to see the old parts they took out. (But I usually do my own work) Sometimes mechanics don't even put new parts in...or if they do, you can see that the old part isn't bad.
I replaced my battery and I went in for an oil change and they told me I needed a new battery lmao
new glow plugs on a lexus, sitting here by myself laughing out loud.
They are not all like this.
Had problems with my brakes on my 1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4(4 cylinder). Replaced the front calipers (tried to take off the brake line on both but they snapped and lost all the fluid in the master cylinder) and the rear brake pads. Found out that the pedal went to the floor, figured it was the power booster (it wasn't) and got a used one from a 1994 Toyota pickup. Still the pedal went down and thought about the master cylinder. Here it was and I ordered the replacement part on Sunday and got it yesterday and did what Scotty said to do to bleed it. Got pressure back and bled the brakes and it's better than ever. Thanks for the tips Scotty!
I thought he was saying let’s go get a new car when he said “ let’s get a new one” lol
Psykro LMAO
hahahahaah
That’s exactly what I thought and i am like Whattt???
Just like that your problems solved XD i think he meant to keep the suspense
😂😂😂😂
Fixed our 1994 Chevy K1500 today using this technique. We had already
bled the brakes to no avail, and also bypassed the rear-anti-lock module
which is reported to cause problems... so I got the replacement master
cylinder and used Scotty's technique here... had a firm, hard brake
pedal in about 3 minutes. :) Scotty, you're awesome--keep up the good
work! :)
This video saved my life 2 days ago. My brake pedal hit the floor and thanks to you Scotty, I knew to check for leaks and found my rear brake line had burst and had no brakes. You are a hero in my book!
When I first saw your channel, I was like (yup) my go to guy! I live in Maine and as a woman, you better believe I can get down and dirty. It's hard to find a reliable and honest mechanic. Thank you for being you (don't change your personality) and sharing your knowledge and wisdom with others. Rock On!
A girl that works on her own car, that is so hot!
You and Scotty both rock.
to each his own, I never bench bleed, this method works fine if done correctly as in the video. You can bleed the whole system, but often that will lead to leaks in an older system, believe me.
When you bleed it do you have to do the bottom method on each line by tire or ?
Scotty, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!! The instructions you gave were perfect. Took only 45 minutes to change and bleed the master cylinder. It would have been less if I didn't need to remove the air filter to make it easier to reach the master cylinder. Keep giving the great advice and help. You make it easy for the weekend warrior to take on jobs that seem impossible. Thank you!-Phil
I thought you meant buy a new car, I was like _what..._
lmfao me too
I heard that too
Best comment on this video
Same 🤣
Saaame hahaha
If you have no air in the system after pressure bleeding the system, replace the brake master cylinder and pray the booster isn't bad too
Can I do this with the car in on position and or running or must it be completely off??
Thanks in advance
holy shit you should tell him to replace the seats too
G Sai hahaha..
vintage
Hahahahaahaha
That's what seat covers are for.
Great tips Scotty! I just find a gravel or dirt road and speed up to 20 or 25mph and do 3 or 4 emergency stops making sure the ABS kicks on. Then go back and bleed the system again. It works because air can be trapped inside the ABS Module and it is very difficult to remove the air using traditional bleeding methods. By activating the ABS, the air is pushed to the calipers and allow the air to be removed via bleeding. Of course, if you have the computer programs to do this without driving on a dirt/gravel road, then use those. But for those who don't, this works well.
My abs hasn’t worked for years. It’s just standard brakes now which I prefer. Question… with the abs system not functioning could this cause any issues with the rest of the braking system? Hydraulics, air, and the old fluid still in those abs lines 🤔 I just have abs light on dash with a sticker over it. 😁
I had not tried anything like changing out a MC, and would never have taken this on . But after watching this video, I did it and this is hands down the best instructional video out there. Thank you so much. This video belongs in the instructional video Hall of Fame!!!
Scotty, another great video- I've seen quite a few of yours; you're a go to guy for my automotive woes. I've worked on cars since 1990- even before, but that's when it became necessity to learn and remember. This video really opened my eyes to brake jobs past where I never got the pedal I wanted. I usually bench bled and followed that with repeated 4 corners bleeding. Sometimes I just could not get a satisfactory result after gallons of brake fluid bled through the lines. I was surprised to see you forgo standard and accepted practice of bench bleeding on, well, a bench. After watching thios video, I was able to bleed a vintage Camaro to a rock hard pedal after getting NO PEDAL even after replacing a booster, master cyl, shoes and hardware, and a new Combination Valve. In ten minutes tonight, I bled the best brake job I've ever done. I'm book marking all my PCs and making notes in the braking section of all my manuals. Keep on truckin'.
This Great Video by Scotty got me to go ahead with the replacement after he said to disregard the bench bleeding. It worked great on my 2001 Sport trac with ABS. There is a bleed port on my master cylinder opposite side of the brake lines. It made it real quick to get the air out along with the technique Scotty showed.
My abs quit years ago. It doesn’t effect my braking… that I know of. No grabbing. With the abs not working could this cause issues with the hydraulics, air in those lines and old fluid? I prefer just standard braking system from 20 years of living in Alaska without it. Alaskan winter mantra… “slow down, pay attention, increase your distance and feather your brakes.” Haven’t had an accident with anyone in all my years of driving. Defensive driving class for Forestry many years ago stuck with me.
The "seats" on that vehicle lmao, and the plastic wrap cap, what a mess
that's vintage bro worth $$$$
Oh look the seats on the old car are old. My observation skills are intense!
Hey Scotty, I just fixed the brakes in my old 94 explorer by following this tutorial. You are the man!
Hahaha I imagine that someone out there saw this video and bought a giant screwdriver instead of using a piece of wood or metal pipe or another person! Trolling level 100
I used a skateboard on my truck to make sure all my lights worked lmao had to replace rear brake lights and my license plate bulbs 😂
Hey Scotty, I just wanted to say thank you for your advice! I was able to put a new master cylinder on my Tahoe today and used your bleeding at the MC trick.. it was a time saver and I didn’t have to take off a single tire to reach the bleeder screws! I’ll bleed like that from here on out, I typically have to do everything by myself. ❤
use the ABS because it foams up less under intense ABS valve action
I have a 2010 HHR I changed my front brakes Pads. And I also bleed the brakes and I still have a sinks brake pedal now I know what I need to do. Thank you Scotty God bless you my brother. Amen
did the master cylinder fix your brake pedal feel? I have 09 chevy cobalt basically the car version of the HHR. I did the front brake pads but still have that sinking brake pad feel.
Thank you for the video. It is always entertaining watching it. Stay safe out there. Have a nice day.
Recently found your channel and upload great videos!
Thanks for sharing!
I fixed my car brake issue/problem based on your "Video: How to fix a brake pedal that sinks...". Great guidance on car maintenance with a fun, creative approach from the God of car technology. I kindly Thank you.
Man, you're the king of simplicity. Nice video.
Scotty, finally the mystery is solved.
It was bad / leaking brake calipers.
Lesson learned, never rebuild them with repair kits. Just buy new calipers.
Installed new ones and i feel my brakes again. No sinking, either engine running or not, hard as they must be.
Thank You Scotty for your patience and help you gave me.
I really appreciate that.
depends on how it broke. Sometimes they just get harder to push, but stop. Sometimes they won't stop at all
That’s what happened to mines harder to push almost impossible then the I P brake system came on
I got an 01 Corolla, the guy bled the right rear wheel . (No foot on the brake bleeding procedure)until bubbles came out. He said the brake pedal always went to the floor and the master cylinder never goes low
I tried to bleed my brakes multiple times after new pads and rotors and hitting a dear first. lol.... Hit a dear first but not bad......just clipped it, but had to stomp on my brakes hard like 2 or 3 times. lol....Ruptured a front brake line so had to be replaced first. Then a week later decided to go ahead and replace pads and brake rotors. Pedal got better after bleeding but only for a couple weeks....got all mushy again and back to the floor. So....makes me think my master cylinder is leaking inside and went bad cause we checked and didn't see nothing leaking or wet underneath. lol... So great video to post Scotty!! Was very helpful man!
You make it look so easy. Of course being in the field for 40 + years, I'm sure most things become second nature after awhile. I've watched several of your videos within the past 30 minutes or so and I am loving them. :)
This video is amazing! I replaced my wife's mini van's master cylinder during lunch - the video was exact!!! Thanks as always Scotty! You da Man!!!
Thanks for the video.
I didn't know there was such thing as having to bleed the master cylinder. I thought I would have to take off all the wheels and bleed each brake (pain). With the assistance of my 9yo, we bleed the brake mc as you instructed, and now it STOPS! Thanks again. Liking and subscribing.
‘94 Toyota Pickup and used OEM Aisin/Advics master. Whole job was less than $90. Thank you!
many times the brake master can be damaged doing a brake job, see that all the time
Scotty Kilmer I wonder how that happens. I'll look it up.
I damaged mine doing a brakes job at night. trying to get a little break from heat.
From pressing the Pistons in?
Brother I just replaced my brake master cylinder I’ve been bleeding for almost an hour I’ve got a 08 Chevy 2500hd and I’ve been reading there may be air in the abs? I don’t know what to try next , im going to drink a beer and go to sleep I’ll try again tomorrow
Felix Sanchez I need help I tried this video method but still goes to the floor with zero resistance. How could my master cylinder break from doing the brakes?
I actually followed this guide and was able to change my master cylinder myself, thank you Scotty. Could have been nice if you warned us about the master cylinder would squirt brake fluid if the brakes are pressed and the lines are loosened. Found out the hard way.
slow braking is often a weak master cylinder or weak booster.Worn pads stop as well as non worn pads, they just start making noise and eating up things when they get down to bare metal.
Great energy!! And great instructions
On how to fix your breaks Thx Scotty
on modern cars, air in the system can cause that, a leak anywhere, and if it has ABS, a bad modulator can do that too
Fixed my 2005 Honda Accord this way, works like a charm! Thank you sir!
you're videos are kickass ! its not boring and slow like the others !
not all of the others videos are slow, but only a few
Totally!
Sienna 2001, Just installed brand new master cylinder, new rear brakes drums, front brakes only 15k miles on them, the brake pedal still goes far down before slowing the car, it stops fine, just not happy with how far down it goes before it stops the car, thanks a lot, your awesome
IF you bled all the air out of the system, and that's a BIG if, you would either have a weak brake booster or a problem in the ABS system.
well, thanks a lot
first when you replace a master cylinder , you bench bleed the master.
second after the master is installed you bleed the complete system.
best thing is to flush the system. with no cap on the master you better replace all the brake fluid before contamination ruins the seals.
Well I am not a mechanic with Scotty's experience. However, when I changed a master cylinder the instructions said to bench bleed the master cylinder before installation as you have stated, and came with special tubes to do this. Furthermore, I too have read many many times that moisture in a brake system is taboo. Consequently, I don't understand why you would not just flush out all that suspect brake fluid while you have the system open. Finally, I am in shock that anyone would not replace the cap, and can't believe the brakes even worked with that plastic on the top. In fact, I am SURE the brakes would not work that way.
@@timbarnes3581 to be honest, I have installed many "Master cylinders" and do my own brakes, calipers,etc. AND HAVE NEVER flushed my brake fluid in any car I have owned.
I have owned the same trucks, vans and 1 car for 20-30 + years and NEVER had an issue because I never changed the fluid.
@@lt4324 Well thanks for the info Tom. Obviously Scotty has worked on cars for many years. But when you change a master cylinder do you bench bleed them? I have only done one master cylinder myself and that is what the instructions said to do. However, I know there are shortcuts that work as well. I only flushed a system one time myself and that is because there was a lot of rust in the lines from a cylinder on one of the rear brakes, but that truck was like 25 years old and had sat for a number of years without running.
@@timbarnes3581 Yes, Being only myself, I did bench bleed and if I had to bleed all lines, I used a "power Bleeder" when doing it by myself.
But then again, I have NEVER had to change a MC on my current vehicles (all plastic MC)
The ones I used to change were "all metal" like on an old 86 Ford E150, Cadillacs, etc. I have yet to install these new ALL plastic MC's So in that respect I can say no. Only bench bled the older ones. BUT I am guessing you still need to bench bleed them.
@@lt4324 I agree!!
The effort you put in these videos is unmatched
Scotty, you're amazing brother. Two of your videos has been helped me with my mercury mystique. Now, my cap is fine, so I'll just bleed the air out. You're a godsend
+Ronnie West thanks for the support!
I’ve watched the videos every time I need help & knowledge of my vehicles, and he’s been awesome and saved me a lot of time & money. Thanks a bunch brother!!!
Wow, this is really well made. Thank you!
This guys charisma is off the charts. Great video
Thanks Scott you have the best videos , and are so informative
Fieldpiece
Hey Scotty, I’m in the 101st right now I LOVE your videos. I got a bunch of car guys here to start watching you. I doubt you’ll even see this comment. But at the end of the video can say about how long it will take to do the job? I love the fact that you only put in the parts that we need and the video is short. But because of that it’s hard to get a sense of time for how long the job will take. I appreciate all you do man.
AIR ASSAULT
generally a wearing out brake booster does that, any mechanic can hear it and tell you in one minute
Unfortunately I wasn't able to buy a new power booster and master cylinder I could only buy both remanufactured for my 1978 Dodge Aspen Custom Sedan I just bought.
I have watched most of your video clips, so good of you to take the trouble to help others by making them........Ray from the UK.
Hey Scotty , do you have to bench bleed the master before installing ?
I didn't , i just followed the instructions, i've just finished changing one on my Mazda 3 , i'm just back from a test drive,all is good.
I didn't either, not sure if it matters but I did bleed the whole system big time. It has rust in the master reservoir. It is a good thing to change fluid every 5 years? Beats me, when it gets ugly tho
Thank you so much! Been looking for a basic video not about special tools or making your own. Simple, informative and to the point.
Putting plastic over the opening??? What the heck were they thinking, a new cap costs like 10 bucks, or even less if you look for a used one...
It’s Pecos Hanks old car. He’s a storm chaser and I wouldn’t doubt that he lost the cap on the road and didn’t really have time to buy a new one.
@@Obi_Wan_Kenobi_027 there are toyota dealerships everywhere bruh he was just lazy
Best auto repair videos in all the interwebs!
air is often very hard to get out, you might pay a mechanic like me to power flush the air out with his equipment
I wish I had seen this video today before me and dad put new pads on the front of her everything good there . Then we adjusted the back breaks everything good there. I say that could be the problem. She’s 2007 she got over 7000 Km runs perfect! Thank you for the video😊
@medievalman86 to keep from ruining the nuts as a regular wrench would when loosening an old stuck nut. Scotty
You're absolutely right about rebuilt master cylinders
just made my day better👍☺
thanks - you are the best. Don't know why all the other vids are so complicated.
i loved this crazy guy
ALI BRAVO, so, today... you don't love him anymore? 💥
your the best, everytime i have a problem with my car i look up your videos and you have the solution!
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
Thanks man you always save me a lot a money 💰 👍
never seen a person who is so knowledgeable and energetic..
love u
Good teacher, thanks.
Hi Scotty, love the videos. I've got an '04 Tacoma that I took up for an oil change a month back that has been given be grief ever since. During the oil change they also changed the brake fluid. They recommended I replace the engine valve cover gasket but I decided against that initially. Shortly after my car starting smelling of burnt fuel every time I drove around. I took the car back and it turned out that oil was leaking from the engine (of course this hadn't happened before the oil change). I took the truck back and had the valve cover gasket replaced then as I was driving off the lot I noticed my brakes were very stiff and difficult to depress. I went back and my mechanic checked the vaccuum pressure (good) and said my brake booster was bad. Again, this had not been an issue before I took it in. Since then I have also noticed that my tires (I think it's the tires) squeal when I turn the wheel all the way. I assume all of these symptoms are related. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
He's not yelling loud enough for me lol
Ty for the information / demonstration!
I feel empowered now when taking my car in to service this issue.
Hey Scotty what was up with that guys seat lmaoo?!?! It went thru hell and back
Ira Friedman his seats look like that from all the women he's banging
4Runner, probably got 400k miles on it.
He farted an had a blow out while lighting his Cuban cigar!
Butch Cassidy: 💥🤣
It was a storm chasing vehicle... With 250k on it when sold to this special owner...
thank u soo much for this video!!! I just did this on my 05 Silverado. the master cylinder was bad and started to leak brake fliud inside of my booster.. I pumped out the liquid from the booster and replaced the master cylinder and that did it.!!!
Holy shit this was corny but man does guy help me out 👍
Lmao its half the reason i watch his videos
I think you're awesome. Clear and concise instruction. Thank you.
Holy shit you're the man
I hope to open a mechanic shop in Africa and am counting on your skills and videos to make that work. like your videos and how you present them.
Having an issue with my 2000 integra...abs light is on and the pedal sinks to the ground...it will build pressure if i pump it but once i start driving the pedal will sink to the floor again and the only way i can get them to stop is if im constantly pumping the brake...i have brake fluid and there is no leaks ..what could be the issue? I need to fix it asap bc its dangerous as hell driving like this please respond
Well, not the same vehicle, but I have a 02 Ford f150. Had a sinking pedal halfway down. Changed master, still there. Found that the ABS unit was leaking by, and causing the rear system to bypass. New ABS unit fixed all!! Best brakes EVER!!!!!
Thanks for this video. It helped me do my first ever master cylinder change.
Scotty my Corolla creeps forward at a red light cause the brake pedal goes down, forcing me to step on it to compensate, or place it in neutral. Same procedure as the video?
+pedrof830 yes
Thank you iv bin dealing with brake issues for about a month now replace all my brakes drums sucked but all brand new and my brakes still fail so now I know what I'm doing this weekend
the 2002-2005 camrys have this problem and cant seem to fix it..spongy brakes and horrible extended braking distance.
Avalons as well
i really think it's the mater cylinder. (use better brake fluid.
Samuel Pong My ‘04 Corolla brakes always felt spongy too
More likely to be a booster on a Toyota than a master.
This man is a freaking genius at making videos
the brake pedal sank to the floor while my husband was driving home one night. He had to be really slow and had to step on the break even when he was still far from where he needed to stop. so glad he made it home safe. I have been interested in learning stuff like this. Would be cool to be able to fix our own car troubles, at least the non major ones. Thank you Scotty!
Didn't know a master cylinder could bleed into it self. Great stuff Scotty thanks from NY.
Best car repair video right here!
thanks scotty, i did get a automatic adjuster and the brakes and handbrake feel more firm and responsive and its not getting loose like before. thanks
Scotty I've watched all your videos. (Well not em all). And you have really helped me in my auto mechanic adventures. And I just absolutely love the beginning and ends of your videos
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
That was a great idea to use a long screw driver to hold the pedal down. While bleeding master cylinder. ... very cool 😎
That screwdriver trick is epic!!!
I used a hiking pole but yeah - 3 cycles and we were off to the races!
Scotty, another "pro tip".
Check the rear seal on the old master cylinder. If it leaked then inspect the brake vacuum booster for fluid. I poured almost a QUART of fluid out of mine once!
I just replaced my master cylinder and had absolutely no idea how to bleed it, thanks for this... hopefully I can get it bled on my truck 🤘🏼
love scotty kilmer 👍😇👍❤ from Philippines
Scotty, I am having trouble identifying why my brake pedal is sinking to the floor, at first, I discovered one of the calipers on the passenger side was bad, that made me to change not only the caliper, but the front brake pads, however, checked the rear brakes were in good condition, no leaks from either wheels. My main problem, the pedal is still depressed all the way to the floor, now the car does stop when you engage in gear, the emergency brake applied, what is the problem, is it the booster or the master cylinder?
Godwin anetekhai often a bad master cylinder, and here's a test. If it does it with engine not running and engine running too, a bad master is often it. BUT, if it is hard with engine off, but drops with engine on, the booster is bad
Thanks a million scotty i will attempt to do this myself i have the exact same problem with my brakes.
dang...I just had this done on my van..could have saved money...and...the lime away worked great on my heater core thanks....
That long screwdriver tip just taught so many people something
You save me scotty thanks now i have a nice smooth brake pedal. thanks again. thomas from Calif.
Thanks you very much Scotty for your helpfully tips. I been a grease monkey all my life but my dad never thought me the in and out. I'm like a pro amateur mechanic but not an expert like you. You are a number #1 on my book...
hey Scotty, I just changed my master cylinder on my 05 XB I'm still have same problem pedal is soft but it stops and I had it professionally done
I just changed mine out and it's still spongy too. Did you ever find out what it was?
Hi Scotty,
I have a weird one for you. Several people posted on a Jeep forum regarding this issue.
Jeep Liberty CRD with diesel engine and ABS system.
The brake pedal will start to feel soft. If you keep pressure on it the pedal will slowly go to the floor but not light up the red brake warning light.
I replaced all four sets of brake pads which were down to the last 2000 miles and bled all four calipers but that did not fix it.
I hired the master cylinder replaced, so it was done at a shop professionally. The master cylinder did NOT fix the issue. It was a new one, not used. Then we have a red brake warning light. The repair shop could not find a code. Took it to Jeep dealer, they could not find a code either.
There are no leaks, never were. I now suspect something internal with the ABS system
You might not find one since they only built them for two years in limited numbers.
But there ARE Jeep Libertys aplenty with the 3.7 gas engine. If you could find one with ABS it would be interesting if you could provide feedback. Does it do the same thing?
Oh one more thing, the CRD Liberty master has two vacuum lines to it, the gas version only one. I'm not sure what that has to do with it.