I just did 6 complete overhauls of entire brake systems on ground support equipment for aircraft. I replaced the master cylinders, the main brake fluid reservoirs, entire lines from the systems, calipers, wheel hubs races and bearings. I bled the systems by gravity first then by suction using the air pump assisted method. The specific pressure for the equipment must be 725 psi or better. All 6 systems have 800+. My co workers used the one, two, and three hold the pedal to the floor method. I then opened one bleeder at a time and closed it before they let off the pedal. I ensured and verified there was no air in the system. Even the bleeders threads were sealed with sealant to ensure no air was entering the system. 3 of the 6 vehicles came back with soft pedal. We rebled those systems and verified no leaks were present anywhere. I consider myself very proficient in repairing and troubleshooting these brake systems. Yet the soft pedal reoccurs. What could it possibly be?
Don’t know if you answered back to question but I recently had a brake problem when I was drive my brakes went out on me I will admit my brakes was scratching for a while so I know I need brakes pads then I noticed my fluid wasn’t in there when I put some in so can that be the reason because my pads being gone ??
I changed a front brake caliper on my Accord 2014 and it sinks even after 2 bottle flushing. Before that was everything great. When the car is off the pedal get hard but when i turn the engine on it sinks. What can i do, pls?
I have an interesting problem. my brake assist is great and no issues there but when I sit in the car and try to start the car the very first time (cold start) I have to really press hard on my brake for the ignition switch push start to get enabled for the car to start . However, once I get the car started, the brake works completely fine and when I stop and turn the engine off, I can start it again without applying too much pressure on the brake pedal, but if I leave the vehicle and come back after an hour and then try to start the car again, I have to really press hard on the brakes For the ignition switch to get enabled. At first, I thought my break switch was going bad, but it is not. Can you guide me what the problem could be? I did replace my check valve, but that did not change anything. It seems like I am supposed to have vacuum in the booster, but for some reason, the vacuum escapes after like 30-40mins. I’m not sure what else is supposed to keep the vacuum inside the booster beside the check valve. Please help.
Thank you so much for this video. I bought a new 2024 and the break felt wrong as i was test diving the car. When pressing on the break, the break was very excessively grinding with excessively side to side movements. But the dealership said it's just knew break. I got the car service but they still say there can't find anything. They also clearly lied and lied and lied to me. And told me things that make no sense. Now the break is Creaking /grunting. It feels so wrong. It feel like something/ part is lose. The clearly felt like it dropped in rung a couple inches. My rep told me the technician tightened all the bolts to torque and upon further questioning he said the technician didn't tighten the torque (straight out lied to me). Now my break CREAK and GRUNT and Something feels even worse. It basically sounds like something is going to fall apart ( which is not a good feeling). Can you please explain/ do a video on how to properly tell/ test if the bolts are secure or tighten to the correct toque or how to measure it? Please. This would be so helpful. Thank you
Bad braking, replaced the front calipers and pads, plus master cylinder and booster. Still not working right. Stop in reverse is ok, forward just glide to a stop. Any ideas?
I have a 2014 chevrolet malibu 2.5 engine that starts runs but after a while it dies and won't start I already replaced the crankshaft position sensor but dies the same thing can someone help me out thank you
I installed a new caliper, but it won’t release. The rotor is stuck. I’ve been using a special tool to push the piston back. Then when I do the bleeding procedure the caliper won’t release. It’s messing with my gas mileage and chewing my brake pads. Is it maybe because I’m not doing the bleeding procedure right?
Hi, I installed a new JEGS brake booster and master cylinder in my 1977 Impala, but I have faced a problem. The brake performs well except sometimes when I push the brake, I lose it and feel the pedal stiffness . Why does this happen?
Great video.. can a bad or aerated master cylinder cause trouble with releasing the brakes as well? Also I have bled all my calipers a number of times and there is no air in them could the master cylinder still have air in it?
+@Dnasty1 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How funny and ironic to see this video. I recently experienced where my foot seems like it keeps going further toward the floor to stop the car. Even my master cylinder was low with fluid. I added fluid thinking all was now well. Few weeks went by and noticed that the fluid is low again. So I have a leak somewhere but I cannot find it anywhere. So I am thinking it is the master cylinder.
After changing all that it still wasn't working. It was the brake sensor. Breaks were activating and making that humming noise like I was driving on ice.
Thanks for noticing! This is a new TH-cam feature we are trying out on a few videos! Alternate language audio tracks are selectable under the gear icon settings!
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where would you go after you replaced the master cylinder and the pedal still sinks to the floor after pumping it up
I just did 6 complete overhauls of entire brake systems on ground support equipment for aircraft. I replaced the master cylinders, the main brake fluid reservoirs, entire lines from the systems, calipers, wheel hubs races and bearings. I bled the systems by gravity first then by suction using the air pump assisted method. The specific pressure for the equipment must be 725 psi or better. All 6 systems have 800+. My co workers used the one, two, and three hold the pedal to the floor method. I then opened one bleeder at a time and closed it before they let off the pedal. I ensured and verified there was no air in the system. Even the bleeders threads were sealed with sealant to ensure no air was entering the system.
3 of the 6 vehicles came back with soft pedal. We rebled those systems and verified no leaks were present anywhere.
I consider myself very proficient in repairing and troubleshooting these brake systems. Yet the soft pedal reoccurs. What could it possibly be?
1A Auto. The Best Instructional, How To and Diagnostic Videos on YT, Bar None!!!! Straight and to the Point, Love'em!
After watch your video, I figure out I left air in my brake line, problem solved, you saved my day, thank you very much 🙏
Presente en clases desde Navojoa Sonora México 🎉 gracias por compartir información de mecánica automotriz 🎉
This is 1 worth keeping 👍
Well lit, good quality video.
Great video
Don’t know if you answered back to question but I recently had a brake problem when I was drive my brakes went out on me I will admit my brakes was scratching for a while so I know I need brakes pads then I noticed my fluid wasn’t in there when I put some in so can that be the reason because my pads being gone ??
I changed a front brake caliper on my Accord 2014 and it sinks even after 2 bottle flushing. Before that was everything great. When the car is off the pedal get hard but when i turn the engine on it sinks. What can i do, pls?
Could also be the rubber lines....
I have an interesting problem. my brake assist is great and no issues there but when I sit in the car and try to start the car the very first time (cold start) I have to really press hard on my brake for the ignition switch push start to get enabled for the car to start . However, once I get the car started, the brake works completely fine and when I stop and turn the engine off, I can start it again without applying too much pressure on the brake pedal, but if I leave the vehicle and come back after an hour and then try to start the car again, I have to really press hard on the brakes For the ignition switch to get enabled. At first, I thought my break switch was going bad, but it is not. Can you guide me what the problem could be? I did replace my check valve, but that did not change anything. It seems like I am supposed to have vacuum in the booster, but for some reason, the vacuum escapes after like 30-40mins. I’m not sure what else is supposed to keep the vacuum inside the booster beside the check valve. Please help.
Can you do the same documentary on steering pumps
Good video. Have you ever had a brake booster check valve go bad? If so, how did you test the check valve? Thanks for your time.
Thank you so much for this video. I bought a new 2024 and the break felt wrong as i was test diving the car. When pressing on the break, the break was very excessively grinding with excessively side to side movements. But the dealership said it's just knew break. I got the car service but they still say there can't find anything. They also clearly lied and lied and lied to me. And told me things that make no sense. Now the break is Creaking /grunting. It feels so wrong. It feel like something/ part is lose. The clearly felt like it dropped in rung a couple inches. My rep told me the technician tightened all the bolts to torque and upon further questioning he said the technician didn't tighten the torque (straight out lied to me). Now my break CREAK and GRUNT and Something feels even worse. It basically sounds like something is going to fall apart
( which is not a good feeling). Can you please explain/ do a video on how to properly tell/ test if the bolts are secure or tighten to the correct toque or how to measure it? Please. This would be so helpful. Thank you
Can you show a video tutorial on how to “auto bleed” with scanner and quick video of how to check the booster for leaks like you stated.
Bad braking, replaced the front calipers and pads, plus master cylinder and booster. Still not working right. Stop in reverse is ok, forward just glide to a stop. Any ideas?
Awesome show, what brand is the scan tool in this show.
Muchas gracias! En español, Genial!!! 😊
I have a 2014 chevrolet malibu 2.5 engine that starts runs but after a while it dies and won't start I already replaced the crankshaft position sensor but dies the same thing can someone help me out thank you
Thank you very much excellent video
I changed pads rotors and dot4 fluid but break pedal vibraiting when using it and hard to press. Why is that? Thank you
I installed a new caliper, but it won’t release. The rotor is stuck. I’ve been using a special tool to push the piston back. Then when I do the bleeding procedure the caliper won’t release. It’s messing with my gas mileage and chewing my brake pads. Is it maybe because I’m not doing the bleeding procedure right?
I just replaced brake booster on dodge caravan 2013 but breaking lights stay on . Any idea what is the problem. Thank you
W can happen when transmission fluid is added to brake fluid
Thanks brother
Hi, I installed a new JEGS brake booster and master cylinder in my 1977 Impala, but I have faced a problem. The brake performs well except sometimes when I push the brake, I lose it and feel the pedal stiffness . Why does this happen?
Great video.. can a bad or aerated master cylinder cause trouble with releasing the brakes as well? Also I have bled all my calipers a number of times and there is no air in them could the master cylinder still have air in it?
+@Dnasty1 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks
Thanks god bless
My brake pedal doesn't return all the way almost but not all the way .any help is much appreciated
What about if it's to stiff and the break caliper always sticks
Mid to late '90s Chevrolet notorious for soft or spongy pedal
Can i just replace the rubber of the master cylinder?
Awesome wl try tht 2mr
My brakes pedal operates normally until it’s 4th-6th brake then it won’t release pressure and I end up spinning my rear tires and can’t move
What if the pedal squeaks? What could be wrong?
So I'm having some brake issues on my chevy equinox I'm having to pump the brakes for the brakes to slow the car and come to a stop
If I braking really slowly it sink all the way down but not when normally brake. The fastest the stiffness
How funny and ironic to see this video. I recently experienced where my foot seems like it keeps going further toward the floor to stop the car. Even my master cylinder was low with fluid. I added fluid thinking all was now well. Few weeks went by and noticed that the fluid is low again. So I have a leak somewhere but I cannot find it anywhere. So I am thinking it is the master cylinder.
i wish there was one video if ur break pedal is stiff and wont go down
After changing all that it still wasn't working. It was the brake sensor. Breaks were activating and making that humming noise like I was driving on ice.
2010 camry se 2.5l auto
had to replace master cylinder at 133k miles...
Honda Ridgeline 2013
Master cylinder change by no change in pedal distance
Of course you cannot replace the seal instead of a whole master cylinder?
Umm anyone else getting language changes from english to spanish
Thanks for noticing! This is a new TH-cam feature we are trying out on a few videos! Alternate language audio tracks are selectable under the gear icon settings!
Abs
Simply no logical diagnostic strategy here!
Corny but helpful 🤣
That fluid look horrible it should be clear like water
Thanks