I see a video from RAW-CAt, I enter just to hit the like button even when I don't have time to watch the video. Will be back soon to watch the whole video. Thank you for these gems you keep giving us ! Just in time for my tune after I complete installing the mid drivers ! Hooray !
wow I had no idea you'd get so in depth with these. love it. also, did you have the videos prepared earlier to upload them day after day, or you're pumping them out in such fast pace?
Thanks a lot for a very informative and useful video about the RTA graphs. Nice explanation about the “boom” effect in subwoofer and the limitation of 2 way system.
I think it would have helped drive the point home on the limitations of 2 ways if you had a basic tune and showed how the drivers summed. Of course, viewers wanting to see more could reference the other videos mentioned. BTW I am loving this back to basics series.
Something else that may help in a two way where the mid bass can’t play high enough to reach the tweeter, is to try a 12db slope on the mid bass LP and tweeter HP and then swap the polarity on the tweeters or mid bass. But you have to make sure your tweeters can handle that shallow slope at the levels you plan on playing your system.
I haven't done a two way really, but this would be sort of my strategy.. Before any real EQ, Raise the high pass at the bottom to something like 120 or 140 hz.. (electrical). Throw a WIDE +6db boost in the middle dip(because why not). Raise the lowpass (electrical) maybe 1k higher and throw in that wide boost at that knee area. After you get it matching the target somewhat THEN do all your EQ with REW. If it does some big -10dbs or something, so be it. You'll need to bring down the level in the DSP some at the end, but as long as final level isn't more than +1 or +2 ish final level, I'm ok w that. I would really try not to leave any sort of "gap". After timing and getting them to play together, I'd even boost a bit in the crossovers on both drivers if you think they can handle it. I believe the final result after all this should end up a compromise between headroom and quality.
Hello Nerijus, very nice video 👍 you explain well the limitations of a typical 2-way system. I wonder why you said you can't use rew target curve to eq the sub and that it needs a specific curve ?
Very nice vídeo, this tutorial help-me to configure my setup, but i have an old alpine h701 and is so limitated for EQ because have only 4 bands parametric, because this i work with graphic 31 band EQ.
Awesome!! So I am already past crossover and basic EQ. Looking forward to speaker leveling and Time alignment both with tape measure and USB mic(since I don’t have an XLR)
You know i have already seen them, just these are much easier to follow, understand and implement. Plus I am again doing my system and this kinda gives me confident that I will not miss anything. For example I never knew or got to getting a floor noise and it now makes more sense into some unknown peaks.
So i have a hybrid system i have a mid bass driver from a 2 way system and then w co axial that has a removable Tweeter that i replaced with a different tweeter they all have a separate ch vut they are firing up into the dash the mid and tweeter would this be still considered a 2 way and also make tuning it a bit weird ?
Excellent thank you! I’ll be tuning my car the best I can using my pioneer head unit’s 31 band graphical EQ. Do you know what I should use for the Q value in REW when I input the various frequencies in the EQ window?
I'm about to jump on this after work....2 weeks ago. I got the mic, software then finally calibrated it....then I told myself what is next to measure freq in the car, my mind froze....then i shut my laptop off.......... soon i will turn it on play with .it..all along I had to go into the RTA section 😆 🤣 duhhhhh😅 well I'm 1% there ...thanks
You mentioned that we shouldn’t try to fix dips caused by midbass being installed in the doors because a 15 dB boost could damage the drivers, so it’s better to leave it alone. But shouldn’t we at least boost it a little? I feel like any small boost might still help.
I have mearusre my system but have difficulties to tune it, the result was weired. Can you help to look at my measurments? How can I send the file to you ?
I am way too busy at the moment, you are more than welcome to post your measurements in "RTA in cars" FB group. We have many helpful people over there☺️
This really made me understand REW a lot easier.. The issue for me is, i no longer have my laptop. Would you ever make a video of how to use your android phone, audio tool and an iMM-6 (or the new iMM-6C)?
@RAW-CAt yea, i understand.. im just on a budget right now and can only use whats available to me right now, but there is no good guide on it 🤦🏾♂️😂 i definitely understand though 🙏🏾
Excellent video, noob question incoming. When setting target dB for tweeters, you chose 48.5db, but selected 60db for the mid-bass. Is it normal to have over 10db difference in targets for these drivers?
The 150Hz dip cannot be fixed with a front sub, only the 60-70Hz. If you will cover 150Hz with rear speakers ,it will pull the image back and you will lose the coherent illusion of the center image.
@@elviscaragea4433 yeah, you can, however doors playing down to 50Hz will fall apart.. The sheet metap.is not strong enough to support this much movement and still sound good. The bass will be sloppy and the rattles will attract your attention.
Usually 400hz cancelation and 2 to 3k bump most vehicles have some variation of these in my experience. Has anyone figured out the best way to deal with this without eq? I know the less eq you have to use the less chance of compression and blowing out frequency layers with an eq!
On your note of vehicle noise(here's looking at you non sense in my far right dash, probably from the glass changers), most people would benefit from letting their car to come up to temp and rpm for a multitude of maybe obvious reasons. Along the process I would take a house or sum level engine on/off to maybe pin point where gains can be made with the install if it isn't obvious. EG that 450-700hz must be just the drivetrain and not a panel.
Interesting. The guy from polish department of "audio system" told me that these auto EQ tools are shit and to never use them 🤔 Looking at the video it seems to be working perfectly
![TIMETHAI - ไม่อยากให้เป็นเขา (Why tho?) [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o2qYlGVVtOw/mqdefault.jpg)
This got to be one of the best car audio tutorials series in TH-cam, thanks for taking us along this journey
I see a video from RAW-CAt, I enter just to hit the like button even when I don't have time to watch the video. Will be back soon to watch the whole video. Thank you for these gems you keep giving us ! Just in time for my tune after I complete installing the mid drivers ! Hooray !
"yes, it is oversize, but I don't care" lol perfect way to end that discussion
50db scale is like beer googles for the rta! 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 best breakfast ever! ❤ it Raw! 😆
Great job!
These Back to basics videos will definitely help the FB group to refer people to for common advice.
wow I had no idea you'd get so in depth with these. love it. also, did you have the videos prepared earlier to upload them day after day, or you're pumping them out in such fast pace?
I invest little in production and editing. Pretty much record on the go and just cut out "ums" and "ehs".
Well damn, I had no idea how many issues two-way systems have in vehicles. I'll be waiting for the three-way system video!
thanks for this education, as a noob in tuning and building a new system , this helps in understand and going through the high learning curve.
Thanks a lot for a very informative and useful video about the RTA graphs. Nice explanation about the “boom” effect in subwoofer and the limitation of 2 way system.
Another video...another day of rain. Lol Thanks for the vid.
I would put 5 or 100 likes for this video. Really good one 👍
Now I understand it better. Yes! Thank you so much !
Excellent raw cat
Gold
I think it would have helped drive the point home on the limitations of 2 ways if you had a basic tune and showed how the drivers summed. Of course, viewers wanting to see more could reference the other videos mentioned. BTW I am loving this back to basics series.
I am loving your content such valuable information please keep doing what you're doing you are killing it brother!
Díky!
Another very good video. Very informative. Thanks 😊 once again.
Something else that may help in a two way where the mid bass can’t play high enough to reach the tweeter, is to try a 12db slope on the mid bass LP and tweeter HP and then swap the polarity on the tweeters or mid bass. But you have to make sure your tweeters can handle that shallow slope at the levels you plan on playing your system.
I haven't done a two way really, but this would be sort of my strategy..
Before any real EQ, Raise the high pass at the bottom to something like 120 or 140 hz.. (electrical). Throw a WIDE +6db boost in the middle dip(because why not). Raise the lowpass (electrical) maybe 1k higher and throw in that wide boost at that knee area.
After you get it matching the target somewhat THEN do all your EQ with REW. If it does some big -10dbs or something, so be it. You'll need to bring down the level in the DSP some at the end, but as long as final level isn't more than +1 or +2 ish final level, I'm ok w that.
I would really try not to leave any sort of "gap". After timing and getting them to play together, I'd even boost a bit in the crossovers on both drivers if you think they can handle it.
I believe the final result after all this should end up a compromise between headroom and quality.
Great stuff. Thank you for sharing.
much needed this👍
Have you ever encountered any big peaks that no matter how much cut you add, does not measure any reduction?
Most likely those will be resonances. Check the problematic frequencies using a sine tone and listen, how they sound to your ear.
siempre agradecido contigo, he aprendido mucho mirando tus videos!!! saludos desde argentina! 🔵⚪🔵
My God I loved this tutorial 😮 everything makes more sense now 😮
Happy to help😉
@ 😁🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hello Nerijus, very nice video 👍 you explain well the limitations of a typical 2-way system.
I wonder why you said you can't use rew target curve to eq the sub and that it needs a specific curve ?
I will make a video about targets in the near future😉
@@RAW-CAt ok thank you sir for your hard work 😊🙏😎
Very nice vídeo, this tutorial help-me to configure my setup, but i have an old alpine h701 and is so limitated for EQ because have only 4 bands parametric, because this i work with graphic 31 band EQ.
Are there more back to basic videos coming? Impatiently waiting for more
Yes, plenty. I am planning to cover everything 😉
Awesome!! So I am already past crossover and basic EQ. Looking forward to speaker leveling and Time alignment both with tape measure and USB mic(since I don’t have an XLR)
@@lucksin you know that I already have videos covering these things?😉 Just not down to the "basics" level.
You know i have already seen them, just these are much easier to follow, understand and implement. Plus I am again doing my system and this kinda gives me confident that I will not miss anything.
For example I never knew or got to getting a floor noise and it now makes more sense into some unknown peaks.
Fantastic vid. Thanks bro
just moving the mid-bass to the kicks fixes a lot of this...2 way can work.
Yes, it can, and this is exactly what I said in the video👍
PK is short for "peak" I believe
So i have a hybrid system i have a mid bass driver from a 2 way system and then w co axial that has a removable Tweeter that i replaced with a different tweeter they all have a separate ch vut they are firing up into the dash the mid and tweeter would this be still considered a 2 way and also make tuning it a bit weird ?
Excellent thank you! I’ll be tuning my car the best I can using my pioneer head unit’s 31 band graphical EQ. Do you know what I should use for the Q value in REW when I input the various frequencies in the EQ window?
Q-4.3
I'm about to jump on this after work....2 weeks ago. I got the mic, software then finally calibrated it....then I told myself what is next to measure freq in the car, my mind froze....then i shut my laptop off.......... soon i will turn it on play with .it..all along I had to go into the RTA section 😆 🤣 duhhhhh😅 well I'm 1% there ...thanks
I also want to ask, when you say "people post their measurements" is there some forum where you all talk about tuning overall and car audio builds?
It's a Facebook group called "RTA in cars"
@@RAW-CAt thank you!
You mentioned that we shouldn’t try to fix dips caused by midbass being installed in the doors because a 15 dB boost could damage the drivers, so it’s better to leave it alone. But shouldn’t we at least boost it a little? I feel like any small boost might still help.
You can buy in this case it's pointless as it's gonna be just a drop in a bucket.
I have mearusre my system but have difficulties to tune it, the result was weired. Can you help to look at my measurments? How can I send the file to you ?
I am way too busy at the moment, you are more than welcome to post your measurements in "RTA in cars" FB group. We have many helpful people over there☺️
This really made me understand REW a lot easier..
The issue for me is, i no longer have my laptop. Would you ever make a video of how to use your android phone, audio tool and an iMM-6 (or the new iMM-6C)?
That is so limiting that I would never consider that setup for anything more serious ..
@RAW-CAt yea, i understand.. im just on a budget right now and can only use whats available to me right now, but there is no good guide on it 🤦🏾♂️😂 i definitely understand though 🙏🏾
Do you still recommend using a house curve or just the curve recommendations in REW?
For midranges and tweeters you can use rew, but for midbass and sub, you need a custom curve.
@@RAW-CAt thanks so much! Love your videos as always!
Excellent video, noob question incoming. When setting target dB for tweeters, you chose 48.5db, but selected 60db for the mid-bass. Is it normal to have over 10db difference in targets for these drivers?
You choose the target level based on individual speaker responses. After EQ you level match bringing the tweeters and mids to the same level.
I have a fan in my dash that came from the factory
Can we use back dor speakers to fix the low midbass dip? Instead of a front sub
The 150Hz dip cannot be fixed with a front sub, only the 60-70Hz. If you will cover 150Hz with rear speakers ,it will pull the image back and you will lose the coherent illusion of the center image.
@@RAW-CAt no, the low midbass, 50-70 with some high xmax drivers
@@elviscaragea4433 yeah, you can, however doors playing down to 50Hz will fall apart.. The sheet metap.is not strong enough to support this much movement and still sound good. The bass will be sloppy and the rattles will attract your attention.
Usually 400hz cancelation and 2 to 3k bump most vehicles have some variation of these in my experience. Has anyone figured out the best way to deal with this without eq? I know the less eq you have to use the less chance of compression and blowing out frequency layers with an eq!
On your note of vehicle noise(here's looking at you non sense in my far right dash, probably from the glass changers), most people would benefit from letting their car to come up to temp and rpm for a multitude of maybe obvious reasons. Along the process I would take a house or sum level engine on/off to maybe pin point where gains can be made with the install if it isn't obvious. EG that 450-700hz must be just the drivetrain and not a panel.
I always tune with the engine off. I can clearly hear bussing from the dash.
Interesting. The guy from polish department of "audio system" told me that these auto EQ tools are shit and to never use them 🤔
Looking at the video it seems to be working perfectly
A tool is a tool, it all depends on how you use them. Eastern Europeans tend to be very old school and purists, being from Lithuania, I know that.
@@RAW-CAt Yup, I 100% agree. I think our societies are pretty similar overall.
looks like a wideband instead of a tweeter is a lifesaver in a two-way system? :)
Indeed it is👍 Unfortunately most factory locations do not allow for a wideband install.
@@RAW-CAtcan you suggest some wideband that I can consider for low to medium budget.
@@aizatfuad86 faital pro 3fe
Sounds like a HLCD is the answer.