@@Kpaceguy just watched this video nice job by the way,ok I have a question on speaker level I use a spl meter to get 75db each of speaker reads differently example the numbers don't match to get 75db, what do I do keep trying or what
@@waymonfrench2077 the numbers on the screen don't need to match as long as you're getting 75db on your meter with the receiver volume on reference or 0db
@@Kpaceguy thank you my brother I was wondering that ,if you don't mind where can I find those height speakers I would want mine in black though the white looks good aswell I know their high $$$
Do NOT change your distances unless you know what you're doing, folks. On a denon or marantz, the distance setting is really a timing setting. If your speaker is not set to the appropriate distance(measured), it's because it's at the necessary distance(timing) in order to have that speaker be in phase with the others. This is not a distance setting. What it actually is, is a time delay setting. So all sound hits your ears at the same time. That's why your sub could say 14 feet but its right next to your left or right speaker which is 9 feet. That's fine. It just means the sub needed to be delayed a bit to arrive in phase. Don't tweak it unless you have extensive knowledge of what you're changing, because it has nothing to do with distance. It should be labeled in milliseconds like every other piece of equipment out there
@@brianfutrelle5676 The point where I stopped taking him seriously is when he claimed the large setting could be "dangerous" because it sends the whole frequency to the speakers. Most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.
@@Kpaceguy Because that was a dumb statement to make. I mean no offense and am sorry for my crass statement, but please think about what you said there: Every decent radio, stereo amplifier etc. without inbuilt controls will ALWAYS send the whole frequency range to your headphones/speakers or whatever you connect to them. That doesn't mean the speaker would drive itself too hard to achieve those frequencies, and break in the process. If the speaker cannot physically achieve those frequencies it will just not image them, even if they are pushed up by Audysee. Actually: If you don't use a subwoofer in your system Audysee won't allow you to change your front speakers to "small" and rightly so, because there is no crossover to be had. In fact Dirac, Audysee and the like are smart enough to not over-equalize bass and high-frequencies the speakers already roll off of too hard. So Danger (I don't even know what you are referring to, certainly not dangerous to us, but it's definitely not dangerous to the speaker either) is NOT the reason you don't want to set the front speakers to large. The actual reason is not cluttering your front speakers with bass frequencies your subwoofer already handles, that would make them needlessly work more and muddy the clearness of all other frequencies in the process. The best way to illustrate the difference is when using a phantom center instead of a physical one. Turn off the subwoofer after calibration and listen to what the setting "large" can do to your dialogue in ambient-heavy scenes. Depending on the quality of your speaker dialogue can end up downright unintelligible.
I watched three others explain how to set the settings on my Denon AVR S760-H and all weren't sure how to set some of the settings, and then I wondered why did they bother to make the video when they left it incomplete. Thank you Kpaceguy you were thorough and didn't leave me with any challenges. You are now my go to guy.
I purchased kef full setup with mass w200 sub. I had no mic with my pioneer vsx1019ahk but did all the things you state manually and couldn't be happier with the sound I see no point in purchasing a mic to calibrate my room. If I play all channel stereo and move my head a few inches forward then I lose sound from the back, if I move my head to the left I hear the left front and rear more and the right side less and vice versa. Literally perfectly in tune so experimenting with distances and spl meter is absolutely necessary and further to this before purchasing this lot I had no experience with home theatre but put in the time to learn and has paid off. Thank you for your input as I was considering buying a mic to see if I was missing anything 👍
Bruh, you are awesome. I had a "audio" company wire up my system and calibrate. The sound was only decent. I suspected there was more to ne done but they were the "experts" -I’m running 805 d3 mains, matching center, similar surrounds and 2nREL Sho S5. Devaliet power and mono block for center.-- stereo music was pretty good on everything but rock. However home theater sucked. My listening environment back then was indeed tough but I still think they could have done more. I’m in a different house now with a dedicated home theater starting to developer. YOUR GRASP on just the receiver is EXCELLENT. I’m going to watch this video and take notes so that my new environment utilizes the gear I own to the max. VERY MUCH APPRECITE YOU SIR.
I have a near field and a living room home theater.The near field is powered by a yamaha that only allows one seat calibration.In that room going back and doing a level calibration with a sound pressure meter gives best results. My living room Yamaha 2080 gives an 8 position calibration and I use it to calibrate one seat with 8 positions. The results are excellent and sound better than doing a manual level calibration after the Yamaha calibration is done. As far as distance goes I never change them from what receiver calibrates because its setting delays in both rooms. At least for me this works and sounds best. This was an excellent video. Would love to see you calibrate using Dirac Live if you ever have access to it.
I have been following your TH-cam video for sometime now. Year by year I will go back and revisit them each time I learn something different for example following manufactor rating feq. response and increase by 20 of course after room calibration. I have also heard from another youtube channel when you correct your audio sync on center channel to your tv and all equipment that help to making sure your vocals are in sync. Must people think getting the best out of your system in a matter of hours. I a sure you it doesn't, however it's a start. Knowing what your equipment can and can't do will help. I am not there but bit by bit I am still learning. Thanks for what you do to make it simple.
Good video. Learned a couple new things here. One thing I'd like to point out is to make sure NOT to change any of the distance measurements for the subwoofers in the settings. The reasoning is mentioned in other AVR channels and the subwoofer has more to do with it balancing them out with other speakers instead of being particular to a measured distance from your seated location. Also, the crossover settings that's usually recommended is higher than 40hz or 60hz. Most say to just set the speakers at 80hz and let the subs deal with any lower frequencies. This is regardless of the fact that a speaker may have a response below 40hz.
Yes the distance measurements are actually delay measurements. Since the sub signal has to go through another amplifier, and some subs have DSP processing, this is why the distance for the sub is sometimes larger than the other speakers. You should not change the distance values.
Hi K Just want to say Thank you :) :) i calibrated with a SPL App and i didn't know hou much i was missing out of the Atmos tracks i had a ear to ear smile om my face when i played serval movies . So a big thanks from the Netherlands Btw now i have to re watch al the Atmos movies at home :) :) :)
Great Kpaceguy. As a newbie you answered many of my questions, especially about avoiding male-voice chestiness from the center speaker. At the same time, you raised more questions for me. Could you discuss using the graphic eq after calibration. I produced some unexpected cuts and boosts, in the bass, according to the graphs, Also, as I understand it, changing mains to small, then changing xovers re-assigns frqs below the xover to the sub and mains. This means that what the calibration "decided" before, is not what it would decide if you ran it now. Also, if you check levels, and responses after tweaking, do the measurements of a given speaker take into account the re-assignment of bass from other speakers.
Just hit "subscribe". I have the Onkyo NR6050 I also have the NR7100 and I want to see if there is a substantial difference since it is more than twice the price. Speakers: Front wharfedale valdus 400 se (I also have Timeframe TF700 not hooked up) I would like to set them up as zone two for stereo listening only. Center and surround are entra point five the AccuEQ set the speakers within 4" of their actual distance with the exception of the Sub, that was off 3' Front wharfedale 40htz center 90htz SR 100htz Sub 120htz Timeframe sounded increasable at full in Pure audio and "direct" and much louder in stereo mode which does apply EQ.
Thanks kpaceguy my only problem is I have a pioneer 701 ,and I added an amplifier to front channels . Through the receiver it set at 80hz . The amplifier I have is a crown 1502 should I set it to high pass were as tho I can set a crossover. Or should I set it to "no crossover and let what the receiver push the 80hz? Speakers are polk t50 40hz. Thanks great information everytime I get that notification.
I'm a big fan of having all the crossovers and settings all in one central place so you know what everything is doing and where to go when you need to check/change something. Set it to no crossover and let your receiver handle the crossover
Hello again KPACEGUY. Thanks again for those tips. I ll start with my tv. It s Sony Bravia 75- inches plus my speakers are CANTON GLE 490.2 ... 4 of them. 2- front And 2- surround and for the back surround It s 2- ELITE PIONEER sp-fs51 from A JONES an for the center it s a PIONEER sp-c21 and for the ATMOS I use my 4- old cube speakers BOSE For my subwoofers l use my old 8- inches from PIONEER and my new PARADIGM studio SUB 15. The receiver is a DENON X6500h + a AIRCOM on top of It and a new ANTHEM MCA -5 power amplifier. Oufffff I have a red finger 😂😂😂. Like i said before realy good job on how u r explain in a easy way for us to understand our home-cinema 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 take care and GOD bless u
Never set the crossover settings of speakers below 80 Hz because even the best of speakers do not deliver frequencies below 80 hz comfortably. When you have a dedicated subwoofer for low frequencies, you might as well use it. That's what a subwoofer is for. I set my bass setting to LFE + Main because most of the audio we listen to, does not have discrete LFE signal. The whole purpose of setting the crossovers of all speakers is to allow the lower frequencies to go to the sub. That will happen only if you set it to LFE + Main. Some of the things in the video are misleading (however, these may work for your listening taste).
I believe that is a little misleading too. LFE + Main actually means it will double the bass signal from the main channels, sending it to BOTH the speaker and sub. It's effectively boosting bass. I think you want LFE... and also set your speakers to "small". Even though it says LFE, what it MEANS is "LFE + Crossover signals". The catch is you only get crossover signal if you have the speakers set to "small".
I have Logitech speaker's x210 and i just want to say that the sound is so sweet and the bass so smooth and tied up with the speakers whatever i hear even and the speak goes and from the sub and i like that why i say that... Because i have prime towers ultra center and prime bookselfs and 2 monoliths 15 and i cant hear that smoothness in the sound also i cant hear the tide up with the speakers or voices deaper to goes from the sub what i have to do buddy???
The web manual should make it clearer that the "double bass signal" (one from the sub and at-the-same-time from the Main) only happens if the Mains are set to Large and choosing a “xover”. This particular “xover” is a selector & does NOT cut ANY bass to the Mains It merely allows you to select a range of bass to be duplicated and go to the sub. But the mains still get that range too, hence “double bass”. This can cause overwhelming bass so choose a xover like 40Hz which (for movies) can be OK as it is mainly ambience below 40Hz.and can produce a room-filling effect. This option is not often optimal for music.
For the crossover, it's recommended to put everything at 80hz. First because this is the standard, second is because no matter what speaker you have and how low it goes. It will NEVER match a subwoofer in terms of impact and pure SPL. Also it will make your speakers use less power which means you can play them louder because the most power is consumed by the bass, 80hz and lower. So your AVR won't struggle that much, you will get cleaner sound and you can play louder. Even the top most Marants reliever won't do more than 60w per channel all channel driven.
Quetzalcoalt The only reason why 80 hertz is the standard is because of THX certification. You can thank George Lucas for that! If you have a high power amplifier and speakers that are rated down 40 hz or less you can set the crossover to less than 80 hz. It’s all about your personal preference.
@@glennarcher986 If you start reading why it is the standard you will see why it is the standard. Bass is a huge problem in a closed room. Because bass have longer wavelengths and bounce all over the walls (floor and ceiling too). If you have a big explosion that will play 30hz at max volume on the LCR at the same time, you will have massive peeks and null in any room. That's why it's better to have subs doing all that work, because there are less drivers and can be made to work together more easily hence making the frequency graph more flat. Best way is to have 4 subs in each corner. Minimum of 2 subs is a must. When you have 1 sub, you can't fix the nulls because you need another cone pushing somewhere else in the same room in order to bring the null up. People wrote soo many books on how sound interact in a room. The 80hz rule no matter that THX made it a standard in the cinemas is a must to use. Which one would bring more impact, 3x7 inch drivers handling 200watts total or a 15-18 inch 1000w sub (or 2) ?
Quetzalcoalt You can go all technical on me and frankly I don’t care! It’s all about personal preference. If I want to set my crossover to 60 hertz, 50 hz or 40 hz, that’s me. My speakers can handle it. It’s interesting that before THX certification, there was no so called “industry” standard for the crossover. It wasn’t until George Lucas and his team of engineers that changed home theatre as we now know it. How’s that for doing my research?
@@glennarcher986 Can you do 105db at 20hz at your listening position with your Front Left and Right speakers individually ? I would need a speaker that can do at least 110-112db at 1 meter away in order to reach 105db at my listening position. Can you do a video, play the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow and 0db on your AVR when using a 40hz crossover. Also can you say what brand and model if speakers are you using, because they can handle it ? It's a personal preference to use a fork for eating soup as well. That's why Dolby and some other companies are forcing a standard for movie watching, that disables all the personal preference crap on TVs but you don't care about the technical stuff and why they are doing it, this is the reason people complained about the dark scenes in GoT S8, that they can't see shit, but people with calibrated systems and the personal preference crap on TVs disabled had no complainants.
Quetzalcoalt Congratulations on all your technicals!!!! Where would you like me to pin the medal? It’s obvious you’re looking for an argument. I’m out!!!!
The best video about cross over.!! Can you please make a video about speaker sensitivity also. My amp’ range is -10 to -10 while my speakers say 96db... confused
Audyssey throws up phase error on my center and right channels. Swapped L and R and ruled out speaker error. Its the position of the speaker thats causing it. Any thoughts on how to fix this? Thx
Question for you @Kpaceguy I’m new to HT, I have a denon s960h 2 canton floor standers and canton center. (Still need sub) and am coming from 2 channel listening. Can I set these adjustments and then press a mode to easily just use 2 channel and “erase” these settings? If this makes sense lol
You can change sound modes usually with the remote and cycle between home theater modes and stereo music modes. And when you get a subwoofer you can have it set to either use the sub and a crossover when listening to music or use no sub and go full range with your 2 canton speakers.
@@Kpaceguy I get that it’s something some audiophiles often turn their noses up to. Sort of fell into a 5.1 setup (from a 2.1) with the addition of a new pair of older ELAC UF5’s ($399) and a UC5 ($136) onto a pair of UB52’s and an S10.2 used thru a Marantz SR5013. Alan Parson’s Quad/5.1 mix of Dark Side of the Moon sounds great thru it, but would take a hell of a lot of tinkering to get the 5.1 system working for lossless audio (primarily jazz) I listen to.
@init4fun it's a cool effect but it usually puts most the information through the center channel and adds a lot of reverberation to all the other speakers
Nice job, generally. But some of what you are doing is incomplete with regards to the potential for dealing with crossover refinement with the Editor App. Like you saw with your initial run, it is very common to see Audyssey want to call the LCRs Large, and worse, cross them at 40Hz...even with speakers that you know good and well are not capable of being -3dB speakers at that frequency. With the editor app you can, of course, change the config to Small. With some study of the pre-EQ room response in the Editor App, you can then use the Curve Editor to confirm where each speaker's -3dB point is in your room. It's usually close to the speaker's designed -3dB spec. You can and should change the crossover to that frequency, but the real refinement is also telling Audyssey this in a more precise way by reconstructing the target curve of the speaker to reflect that -3dB point. This is quite easy to do in the Curve Editor by setting grabs at an octave above that frequency and at 20Hz. You then manipulate the 20Hz level until the level at the crossover frequency is -3dB below the baseline average spl (that you can estimate in study of the response pre-EQ). What you will see with this when complete in the Curve Editor is the appropriate 2dB per octave roll-off below the crossover point. Audyssey will then apply filters to conform to that curve when you save and load it to the AVR/AVC. This helps smooth transition to the subs and prevents filters chasing things they don't need to. The choice of the crossover frequency can also be affected by room volume. Headroom is extremely important in the sub-80Hz octaves. Your speakers (and subs) need not only the ability to create the frequencies down there, they need to be able to do so at very loud levels with ease. This is so that they will never be challenged and compress at louder passages, reducing dynamics of the LFE. If your speakers seem to be okay at 60Hz at normal listening levels, do they remain so when called upon to do so at times of loud passages? If you are missing "slam," and you know the source media has it, this could be the problem. Audyssey thinks you want the LCRs to deliver that 60Hz slam, when the room volume might overchallenge the speakers ability to deliver it. Room volume affects this mightily. Choosing a crossover point a bit higher than you might expect (perhaps 80Hz rather than 60Hz) may be just what your speaker needs to be able to roar without strain, turning over the loud lower passages to the subs. As long as the subs have the ability to deliver with plenty of headroom, you will then have the slam. This makes a significant improvement to LF dynamics even at at normal listening levels if you have a large room. Of course, use DEQ. FWIW. Cheers
I failed to add that the pull down on the 20Hz grab will also somewhat affect the entire curve...and needs to be "countered." To do this place a grab at 20KHz and move it such that all of the curve above the LF overlays precisely the primary curve that Audyssey created (the green and red curves). Also, above I used the term "slam," but perhaps that is better used for the lower frequencies, and "punch" might be a better term for dynamic LF content around 60Hz. Rather subjective terms, but you get the idea. Cheers. I enjoyed your video. I'll have to check out more.
Hi I know this video was 3 years ago and english are not my 1st language. Is it compulsory to get my subwoofer tone same as other speakers. Currently my speaker is -12DB and I skip the subwoofer tone test.
New here. Great videos! I am at a dead end, and wondering if you could provide advice on configuring my Sony STR DN1080 w/ Klipsch speakers? Thank you! 🙏🏼
I always like your video Kpaceguy my question is I have a dual SVS subwoofer I find out lately that Denon x4500h has two channels output but only one channel LFE so i need your advice do I need splitter and use one channel for both subwoofers?
Really useful video. Thamk you. One note: I understand the need to monetize the creation, but there are waaaayyyyy to many ads on your video. This will bring people away from your channel.
6:22 I had to go to positive numbers to get even close to 75 db. Going to watch a flick tonight to see how they sound. I don't want to damage them. My Sensitivity for my Sony Sony SSCS5 is 87 db
Hello ! I hope you can help me with this question: I have a pioneer amp (vsx815) that comes with 100hz xover by default. I have a Bosé Acoustimass 600 speaker. How much do I set the x over on my amp? And the ohms at what is recommended? The speakers have a range of 4-8 ohms, also in the amp I can choose from 6-8 ohms. Thanks in advance, engineer!
Thank you for your video. I am using Denon avr4500. Current set up is 3 front towers center + 2 subs. I am about to Install 4 cieling speakers 2 for front 2 for rear. Also have 2 atmos ! Should i install these to the rear.? Then I am a little worried how to wire up the new 4 cieling speakers on the amp. Can you guide me pls. Once again thank you so much
Just re reading your reply. So just front towers a centre and 2 subs for front and then the cieling speakers set as 2 fronts and 2 rear should be a good setup? Once again really appreciate your quick response
@@alfredcamilleri9238 I'm saying the only thing that should be on the ceiling are atmos speakers. If you want rear speakers, which I think is more important, you should only use 2 atmos speakers on ceiling and 2 rears on the floor or in wall
Kpaceguy I have a maybe problem but when I did the automatic calibration on my Onkyo avr..all is good except my left and right front speaker distance were way off ,the left was 11.5 feet which is good but the right speaker was 2.5 feet distance which of course wrong. My Question is what do you think the receiver did wrong? please advise Thanks.... PS.I re did it several times, I always get the same results....
After running Audyssey, if you use an SPL meter to level your speakers hitting the MLP at the same volume, do you keep Audyssey and Dynamic EQ on or off? Many AV guys say to turn Audyssy off completely and use external tones to measure speaker volumes but then what happens to those levels iif you turn Audyssey and Dynamic EQ back on? Also is using 75dbs at 0 volume too loud even when you lower the volume?
@Kpaceguy Thanks, but are you using the AVR's internal tones? From what I've read they bypass Audyssey whereas external tones don't. I'm wondering whether it would be better to use the external tones with Audyssey and Dynamic EQ on. What do you think?
Interesting video, but I still have one question. I have an old Bose Acoustimass 6 series III speaker set up - I know you don't like that, but _ when you speak about the LFE dial on the sub and say turn it right up, on the Bose there is a bass dial and an LFE dial - should I turn this up full, or is this a different adjustment. The manual reads like it increases the LFE. Please help
Not sure if I got this right but audyssey set all speaker levels to 77db +/- 2db. I tuned it further post calibration and set all levels exactly to 77db, set centre and subwoofer + 2db. Also did not lower crossover, but increased them, set all speakers to SMALL. Am I missing something ? Still thinking maybe I need to play around with levels of surrounds & front heights or keep them at 77?
@SutraLETICSS SutraLETICSS no all speakers don't aren't the same volume. They need to be increased the same amount. If you turn the front left speaker up 3 notches you need to turn everything up 3 notches. That doesn't mean every speaker is the same volume level it means that every speaker is balanced at your listening position. You can turn the sub and center speaker as high as you want
Great video to help people understand. My marantz had my center stage to large also . One question . How do I get a pro file for 2ch audio . I e mailed marantz weeks ago ,still don't have a answer ! Thank you
If I remember right under manual settings you have have the option to set up 2ch when you're in 2ch mode. Option to use audessey calibration or not, turn on or off subwoofer. Etc. But I honesty can't remember
Hey Kpaceguy,I have a Sony strdn1080, the volume goes from 0 to 70 I believe. It's doesn't have the db volum e readout like your receiver. How would I level match that, what volume should I turn it to to get the 75db? Thanks.
Just bought the marantz sr 7015, my problem is if I put it in stereo it sounds like a tin can, as soon as I change it surround it sounds much better, but turns out it’s just coming through the Center channel, now watching movie all speakers are working
So to clarify, using your speaker setup as an example: If the subwoofer mode is LFE+main, the sub would be getting 120 hertz and below from your front left and right, not just the 40 and below from the crossover setting?
@@Kpaceguy Cool, thank you. I wasn't clear on that. I've heard other TH-camrs say LFE + Main means the LFE channel is sent to the sub and all other speakers. That didn't seem correct.
I HAVE A DENON AVR S- 730H AND ALL MY SPEAKERS ARE KLIPSCH I HAVE 2 SUBWOOFERS KLIPSCH TO MY SETTING ARE FOR MY KLIPSCH ARE RP-620 MAIN ARE 100HZ CENTER 60HZ SURROUND 80 HZ DOLBY ATMOS 150 HZ AND SUBWOOFER -LFE 120 SOUND IS VERY AWESOME TO TELL YOU I DONT LIKE 40 HZ AT ALL, FOR MY KLIPSCH
hey there unfortunately my receiver does not have a setting for relative volume, at least I cant find it if it does. My volume goes from 0 to 74. Any idea where I should set my volume to when setting the levels with my meter? I been trying to get this answer and have had no success :-). thanks again. you have been very helpful.
Hi! I am bit confused as you said it's a best to set the crossover based upon the manufacturer frequency response and not higher than 80Hz, what if I have a satellite speakers with frequency response 160Hz to 20KHz, do I need to set crossover to 80Hz or like around 180Hz. Thank you.
For me to get my speakers to 80DB, im in the positives. Fronts are at +10. Is this bad ? I have a marantz receiver with an emotiva 5 channel power amp rated at 200 watts per channel. The room is 5m wide by 8m long. What do you recommend ?
@@Kpaceguy i found out that my db meter only has A and not the C needed to measure. I think 80 db A is about 90db C lol. So if i put it down to 75db C it should drop alot. Sounds epic though haha. Hopfully i didnt do any damage to the speakers.
Well i did try your settings on music iffy on atmos double iffy so i went back to my original settings on yours the marantz lost Quality on atmos i could not hear the effects I’m gradually building up my original settings i have been dealing in amps a long time and so far the marantz tops the bill in Quality I’m watching youtube for someone to come up with proper settings thankyou anyway
Don't follow the settings on youtube. Your room and your speakers are far different. Nobody's settings will ever be right. You have a better chance at calibrating with auddessy and leaving it alone
Yamaha HTR 3072 AVR FS & CS - NS-P 350 SS - VX S 5 SURFACE MOUNT SW - NS - SW 300 ROOM AREA - 130 SQFEET ALL YAMAHA PRODUCTS What crossover best for above speakers system. Pl reply. No crossover for individual speaker. Only 1 crossover.
So as u said , cant increase center channel hz beyond 100 ? So my lower frequency rates ( klipsch 50c rated as 90 ) so which one s better ? 80 or 110 ) if someone can help/ explain !! Totly new to Avrs... thx
Question: how do I pull up the Marantz setting on other inputs such as TH-cam, if I’m watching something on TH-cam and I hit setup/options on my AVR nothing comes up on the screen UNLESS I back out of TH-cam, with my ONKYO that was never the case
If you're watching TH-cam via the smart TV app it won't work. Your TV has to be set to the hdmi input you have your receiver plugged into for the receiver info to pop on screen
Why all my speakers levels are on +? Don’t i need to start with the center settings on 0 and then turn noise volume on untill 75db, then continue to get 75db from all speakers?
So I have a small basement with the Yamaha YHT 4950 5.1 system. I used the YPAO microphone to set it up for the room. After the calibration, it see that it has a global crossover at 200Hz. So, I ran it again and it's still 200Hz. Is that correct? My friends said that it is too high.
I see that you have you are running your prime elevations down to 80. Is that safe for them, considering that they only have a 4 1/2” woofer? Reason I am asking is because I am a proud owner of them as of two weeks now, and I have thought about trying them there.
Thanks for replying! I downloaded a decibel meter on my phone. You said that the decibels should be at 75. However, I had to crank the Level to +10.0 dB using my Yamaha receiver on all of my speakers and they still only got up to around 50 dB! Should I still keep it at that level or is there something wrong with my receivers or speakers, seeing that they only go up to 50 dB on the Test Tone?
Distances on XT32 should not be changed. They don’t measure the distance from tweeter. They measure they delays from tweeter to MLP. Leave distances alone.
@@Kpaceguy I was going to say the same. Also for subwoofer the distance is used for the delay to match both subs. It's not a physical measurement, its delay and its in ms. I do the same with a mini dsp. You add delay to one of the sub to match the other so they don't work against each other. My case one of the subs needed a 12ms delay. That's around 13 feet of delay. That's also why you see that ridicules distance number.
@@Kpaceguy I didn't know that too, it actually came to my mind when i got a miniDSP, because there it says both the ms and the distance. And i always wondered why Audyssey set those huge number for the subs.
I m so pissed my marantz sr6013 does not have that 2ch playback option ! Errr As much as that thing was it should def have it. I wish the emotiva xmc 1 was not so buggy I would of bought it already .
Been using audyssey for many years and I keep switching back to and fro SMALL vs LARGE with LFE+MAIN. and contrary to conventional practise, LARGE sounds a lot better then SMALL. I don't lower crossovers set by Audyssey but do increase them to 20hz over lowest frequency for each speaker. I also prefer a FLAT curve over REFERENCE.
@@Kpaceguy thank you for your reply. if set to small, I always use a window of 20hz over lowest frequency range. My towers go down to 40hz, hence I set them to 60 when SMALL!
No body explain about volume level on AV Receiver while setting DB Level by SPL meter. If I increased AVR volume than automatic volume go to 75 DB on 0 DB level. So what volume level set onAVR say min 30 to Max 97. For each SPEAKERS MY VOLUME LEVEL ON AVR SAME. Suppose I started FL speakers with 60 level on AVR So all speakers it is same. Pl make demonstration video step by step.
@@Kpaceguy I have yamaha 3072 avr and in that I am not allowed to set crossover to each speaker. Just one crossover for LFE. My front 3 speaker is yamaha nsp51. Center channel frequency response 70hz to 36KHZ, front speaker 69hz to 36khz and my sub is 28hz-200hz.how much crossover I can set?
People who are reading the comments. When you run the calibration make sure to use the most points your AVR allows. This will avg the errors that can occur during measurement.
But why all calibration technics mentions speaker as full range instead of small.in my YPAO calibration too,the process tries to fullly utilize speaker capability like 40/60hz instead of doing a cross over.are those engineers really dumb to put that logic of applying 20hz above speaker capability and put that as default crossover? I think if everyone is doing there must be a reason
Great video but you fail to mention when checking your distance with tape measure your Subs distance is always incorrect because Audessey sets the delay/phase distance much more than actual distance, for example your Sub can be 10 feet away but Audessey sets it at 20 feet by calculating the phase
Good video man u should have a larger fan following. Also I want to send u some pics of my home theather for one of your showcase videos
Subscriber showcase announcements coming this week! So go ahead and gather some videos and pics
@@Kpaceguy just watched this video nice job by the way,ok I have a question on speaker level I use a spl meter to get 75db each of speaker reads differently example the numbers don't match to get 75db, what do I do keep trying or what
@@Kpaceguy oh ive used auddesey xt32 aswell
@@waymonfrench2077 the numbers on the screen don't need to match as long as you're getting 75db on your meter with the receiver volume on reference or 0db
@@Kpaceguy thank you my brother I was wondering that ,if you don't mind where can I find those height speakers I would want mine in black though the white looks good aswell I know their high $$$
Do NOT change your distances unless you know what you're doing, folks. On a denon or marantz, the distance setting is really a timing setting. If your speaker is not set to the appropriate distance(measured), it's because it's at the necessary distance(timing) in order to have that speaker be in phase with the others. This is not a distance setting.
What it actually is, is a time delay setting. So all sound hits your ears at the same time. That's why your sub could say 14 feet but its right next to your left or right speaker which is 9 feet. That's fine. It just means the sub needed to be delayed a bit to arrive in phase. Don't tweak it unless you have extensive knowledge of what you're changing, because it has nothing to do with distance. It should be labeled in milliseconds like every other piece of equipment out there
This. This was the point I stopped watching the video.
Thanks mate! Appreciated! 👍
@@brianfutrelle5676
The point where I stopped taking him seriously is when he claimed the large setting could be "dangerous" because it sends the whole frequency to the speakers.
Most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.
Why wouldn't it be
@@Kpaceguy
Because that was a dumb statement to make. I mean no offense and am sorry for my crass statement, but please think about what you said there:
Every decent radio, stereo amplifier etc. without inbuilt controls will ALWAYS send the whole frequency range to your headphones/speakers or whatever you connect to them.
That doesn't mean the speaker would drive itself too hard to achieve those frequencies, and break in the process. If the speaker cannot physically achieve those frequencies it will just not image them, even if they are pushed up by Audysee.
Actually: If you don't use a subwoofer in your system Audysee won't allow you to change your front speakers to "small" and rightly so, because there is no crossover to be had.
In fact Dirac, Audysee and the like are smart enough to not over-equalize bass and high-frequencies the speakers already roll off of too hard.
So Danger (I don't even know what you are referring to, certainly not dangerous to us, but it's definitely not dangerous to the speaker either) is NOT the reason you don't want to set the front speakers to large.
The actual reason is not cluttering your front speakers with bass frequencies your subwoofer already handles, that would make them needlessly work more and muddy the clearness of all other frequencies in the process.
The best way to illustrate the difference is when using a phantom center instead of a physical one.
Turn off the subwoofer after calibration and listen to what the setting "large" can do to your dialogue in ambient-heavy scenes.
Depending on the quality of your speaker dialogue can end up downright unintelligible.
Excellent video! I'm 62 years old and just starting to get into the new AVRs. Trying to make a choice on receiver.
I appreciate it
I watched three others explain how to set the settings on my Denon AVR S760-H and all weren't sure how to set some of the settings, and then I wondered why did they bother to make the video when they left it incomplete. Thank you Kpaceguy you were thorough and didn't leave me with any challenges. You are now my go to guy.
Thank you my friend I appreciate it
I purchased kef full setup with mass w200 sub. I had no mic with my pioneer vsx1019ahk but did all the things you state manually and couldn't be happier with the sound I see no point in purchasing a mic to calibrate my room. If I play all channel stereo and move my head a few inches forward then I lose sound from the back, if I move my head to the left I hear the left front and rear more and the right side less and vice versa. Literally perfectly in tune so experimenting with distances and spl meter is absolutely necessary and further to this before purchasing this lot I had no experience with home theatre but put in the time to learn and has paid off. Thank you for your input as I was considering buying a mic to see if I was missing anything 👍
Great video....i just did this again yesterday, and found some pretty big mistakes that were causing some sound issues....thanks for the great videos
You are so awesome at what you do. You do a great job of explaining things clearly and you really know what you're talking about😁
Bruh, you are awesome. I had a "audio" company wire up my system and calibrate. The sound was only decent. I suspected there was more to ne done but they were the "experts" -I’m running 805 d3 mains, matching center, similar surrounds and 2nREL Sho S5. Devaliet power and mono block for center.-- stereo music was pretty good on everything but rock. However home theater sucked. My listening environment back then was indeed tough but I still think they could have done more. I’m in a different house now with a dedicated home theater starting to developer. YOUR GRASP on just the receiver is EXCELLENT. I’m going to watch this video and take notes so that my new environment utilizes the gear I own to the max. VERY MUCH APPRECITE YOU SIR.
Thanks for watching 🙏
Good job! You are really smart and a great presenter. I miss our go to stores for help but in my town they've all gone away.
I greatly appreciate that!
I have a near field and a living room home theater.The near field is powered by a yamaha that only allows one seat calibration.In that room going back and doing a level calibration with a sound pressure meter gives best results. My living room Yamaha 2080 gives an 8 position calibration and I use it to calibrate one seat with 8 positions. The results are excellent and sound better than doing a manual level calibration after the Yamaha calibration is done. As far as distance goes I never change them from what receiver calibrates because its setting delays in both rooms. At least for me this works and sounds best. This was an excellent video. Would love to see you calibrate using Dirac Live if you ever have access to it.
I have been following your TH-cam video for sometime now. Year by year I will go back and revisit them each time I learn something different for example following manufactor rating feq. response and increase by 20 of course after room calibration. I have also heard from another youtube channel when you correct your audio sync on center channel to your tv and all equipment that help to making sure your vocals are in sync. Must people think getting the best out of your system in a matter of hours. I a sure you it doesn't, however it's a start. Knowing what your equipment can and can't do will help. I am not there but bit by bit I am still learning. Thanks for what you do to make it simple.
I appreciate that Thank you for watching
Good video. Learned a couple new things here. One thing I'd like to point out is to make sure NOT to change any of the distance measurements for the subwoofers in the settings. The reasoning is mentioned in other AVR channels and the subwoofer has more to do with it balancing them out with other speakers instead of being particular to a measured distance from your seated location. Also, the crossover settings that's usually recommended is higher than 40hz or 60hz. Most say to just set the speakers at 80hz and let the subs deal with any lower frequencies. This is regardless of the fact that a speaker may have a response below 40hz.
Yes I found that out from someone in one of my other settings videos. Good info!
Yes the distance measurements are actually delay measurements. Since the sub signal has to go through another amplifier, and some subs have DSP processing, this is why the distance for the sub is sometimes larger than the other speakers. You should not change the distance values.
Great job I really appreciate you speaking in our language . Thank you so much .... love all your videos
I appreciate that. Thank you for watching
Fantastic video you explained it in simple terms so a older person 60+ years could understand it thanks
John
Norwich uk
Thanks for watching John!
Thank you for your help I have a Anthem 710 and Ultra SVS Ultra speakers.
Yours is the best explanation I’ve seen. Thanks.
I appreciate it
Hi K
Just want to say Thank you :) :)
i calibrated with a SPL App and i didn't know hou much i was missing out of the Atmos tracks i had a ear to ear smile om my face when i played serval movies .
So a big thanks from the Netherlands
Btw now i have to re watch al the Atmos movies at home :) :) :)
You're welcome by friend thanks for watching
Great Kpaceguy. As a newbie you answered many of my questions, especially about avoiding male-voice chestiness from the center speaker. At the same time, you raised more questions for me.
Could you discuss using the graphic eq after calibration. I produced some unexpected cuts and boosts, in the bass, according to the graphs, Also, as I understand it, changing mains to small, then changing xovers re-assigns frqs below the xover to the sub and mains. This means that what the calibration "decided" before, is not what it would decide if you ran it now. Also, if you check levels, and responses after tweaking, do the measurements of a given speaker take into account the re-assignment of bass from other speakers.
I think I have a video about it. I'll link you to it
Looking forward to it thx@@Kpaceguy
Young man. You are very good. Thank you for the fine lesson
Thank you for watching
Very helpful video, thank you! Helped me fix some of my overzealous manual fine tuning mistakes 😁
No problem my friend
@@Kpaceguy Subscribed for the helpful videos and positive demeanor…we need more of that these days!
Great video and detailed explanations. Thank you for this.
Fantastic video, helped me tremendously. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so so much. This really is extremely helpful.
Just hit "subscribe".
I have the Onkyo NR6050 I also have the NR7100 and I want to see if there is a substantial difference since it is more than twice the price.
Speakers:
Front wharfedale valdus 400 se (I also have Timeframe TF700 not hooked up) I would like to set them up as zone two for stereo listening only.
Center and surround are entra point five
the AccuEQ set the speakers within 4" of their actual distance with the exception of the Sub, that was off 3'
Front wharfedale 40htz
center 90htz
SR 100htz
Sub 120htz
Timeframe sounded increasable at full in Pure audio and "direct" and much louder in stereo mode which does apply EQ.
I appreciate it. Welcome to the crew
Thanks kpaceguy my only problem is I have a pioneer 701 ,and I added an amplifier to front channels . Through the receiver it set at 80hz . The amplifier I have is a crown 1502 should I set it to high pass were as tho I can set a crossover. Or should I set it to "no crossover and let what the receiver push the 80hz? Speakers are polk t50 40hz. Thanks great information everytime I get that notification.
I'm a big fan of having all the crossovers and settings all in one central place so you know what everything is doing and where to go when you need to check/change something. Set it to no crossover and let your receiver handle the crossover
@@Kpaceguy thank you kpaceguy .
Excellent video guy. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching
Hello again KPACEGUY. Thanks again for those tips. I ll start with my tv. It s Sony Bravia 75- inches plus my speakers are CANTON GLE 490.2 ... 4 of them. 2- front And 2- surround and for the back surround It s 2- ELITE PIONEER sp-fs51 from A JONES an for the center it s a PIONEER sp-c21 and for the ATMOS I use my 4- old cube speakers BOSE For my subwoofers l use my old 8- inches from PIONEER and my new PARADIGM studio SUB 15. The receiver is a DENON X6500h + a AIRCOM on top of It and a new ANTHEM MCA -5 power amplifier. Oufffff I have a red finger 😂😂😂. Like i said before realy good job on how u r explain in a easy way for us to understand our home-cinema 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 take care and GOD bless u
You sound considering submitting pictures and videos to my email of your home theater for my subscriber showcase series coming up soon!
Nice video, I have a Denon X1500h AV receiver, speaker are hsu hb1 mk2, and stf2 sub, but sound is flat, muddy sound.
Great video. Thanks.
Great content and detail! Very helpful! 👌🏽
I would set crossover to 80hz and let the subwoofer do the work, freeing up receiver resources to do what they do best... and also set a 500hz curtain
Great explanation, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
Never set the crossover settings of speakers below 80 Hz because even the best of speakers do not deliver frequencies below 80 hz comfortably. When you have a dedicated subwoofer for low frequencies, you might as well use it. That's what a subwoofer is for.
I set my bass setting to LFE + Main because most of the audio we listen to, does not have discrete LFE signal. The whole purpose of setting the crossovers of all speakers is to allow the lower frequencies to go to the sub. That will happen only if you set it to LFE + Main.
Some of the things in the video are misleading (however, these may work for your listening taste).
I believe that is a little misleading too. LFE + Main actually means it will double the bass signal from the main channels, sending it to BOTH the speaker and sub. It's effectively boosting bass. I think you want LFE... and also set your speakers to "small". Even though it says LFE, what it MEANS is "LFE + Crossover signals". The catch is you only get crossover signal if you have the speakers set to "small".
I have Logitech speaker's x210 and i just want to say that the sound is so sweet and the bass so smooth and tied up with the speakers whatever i hear even and the speak goes and from the sub and i like that why i say that... Because i have prime towers ultra center and prime bookselfs and 2 monoliths 15 and i cant hear that smoothness in the sound also i cant hear the tide up with the speakers or voices deaper to goes from the sub what i have to do buddy???
The web manual should make it clearer that the "double bass signal" (one from the sub and at-the-same-time from the Main) only happens if the Mains are set to Large and choosing a “xover”. This particular “xover” is a selector & does NOT cut ANY bass to the Mains It merely allows you to select a range of bass to be duplicated and go to the sub. But the mains still get that range too, hence “double bass”. This can cause overwhelming bass so choose a xover like 40Hz which (for movies) can be OK as it is mainly ambience below 40Hz.and can produce a room-filling effect. This option is not often optimal for music.
For the crossover, it's recommended to put everything at 80hz. First because this is the standard, second is because no matter what speaker you have and how low it goes. It will NEVER match a subwoofer in terms of impact and pure SPL. Also it will make your speakers use less power which means you can play them louder because the most power is consumed by the bass, 80hz and lower. So your AVR won't struggle that much, you will get cleaner sound and you can play louder. Even the top most Marants reliever won't do more than 60w per channel all channel driven.
Quetzalcoalt The only reason why 80 hertz is the standard is because of THX certification. You can thank George Lucas for that! If you have a high power amplifier and speakers that are rated down 40 hz or less you can set the crossover to less than 80 hz. It’s all about your personal preference.
@@glennarcher986 If you start reading why it is the standard you will see why it is the standard. Bass is a huge problem in a closed room. Because bass have longer wavelengths and bounce all over the walls (floor and ceiling too). If you have a big explosion that will play 30hz at max volume on the LCR at the same time, you will have massive peeks and null in any room. That's why it's better to have subs doing all that work, because there are less drivers and can be made to work together more easily hence making the frequency graph more flat. Best way is to have 4 subs in each corner. Minimum of 2 subs is a must. When you have 1 sub, you can't fix the nulls because you need another cone pushing somewhere else in the same room in order to bring the null up.
People wrote soo many books on how sound interact in a room. The 80hz rule no matter that THX made it a standard in the cinemas is a must to use. Which one would bring more impact, 3x7 inch drivers handling 200watts total or a 15-18 inch 1000w sub (or 2) ?
Quetzalcoalt You can go all technical on me and frankly I don’t care! It’s all about personal preference. If I want to set my crossover to 60 hertz, 50 hz or 40 hz, that’s me. My speakers can handle it. It’s interesting that before THX certification, there was no so called “industry” standard for the crossover. It wasn’t until George Lucas and his team of engineers that changed home theatre as we now know it. How’s that for doing my research?
@@glennarcher986 Can you do 105db at 20hz at your listening position with your Front Left and Right speakers individually ?
I would need a speaker that can do at least 110-112db at 1 meter away in order to reach 105db at my listening position.
Can you do a video, play the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow and 0db on your AVR when using a 40hz crossover. Also can you say what brand and model if speakers are you using, because they can handle it ?
It's a personal preference to use a fork for eating soup as well.
That's why Dolby and some other companies are forcing a standard for movie watching, that disables all the personal preference crap on TVs but you don't care about the technical stuff and why they are doing it, this is the reason people complained about the dark scenes in GoT S8, that they can't see shit, but people with calibrated systems and the personal preference crap on TVs disabled had no complainants.
Quetzalcoalt Congratulations on all your technicals!!!! Where would you like me to pin the medal? It’s obvious you’re looking for an argument. I’m out!!!!
Nice job … Thank you
You have earned a subscriber
The best video about cross over.!!
Can you please make a video about speaker sensitivity also. My amp’ range is -10 to -10 while my speakers say 96db... confused
th-cam.com/video/nHdDApEMiuY/w-d-xo.html
This 2 ch. playback settings- when will it be used? Is it when I press Music on my Marantz controller and select stereo?
Great video - Thanks!! 👌🏻
Yes. Stereo, not all channel Stereo
that 2 ch playback seetings/ how will you activate them? when you play music
Fantastic channel dude
Thank you my friend
Excellent video
I appreciate it
Audyssey throws up phase error on my center and right channels. Swapped L and R and ruled out speaker error. Its the position of the speaker thats causing it. Any thoughts on how to fix this? Thx
It'll throw errors even when it's correct. Just physically make sure your wires aren't crossed and ignore the error. It could be just room acoustics
Question for you @Kpaceguy I’m new to HT, I have a denon s960h 2 canton floor standers and canton center. (Still need sub) and am coming from 2 channel listening. Can I set these adjustments and then press a mode to easily just use 2 channel and “erase” these settings? If this makes sense lol
You can change sound modes usually with the remote and cycle between home theater modes and stereo music modes. And when you get a subwoofer you can have it set to either use the sub and a crossover when listening to music or use no sub and go full range with your 2 canton speakers.
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching
Great content! Thank you, man!
I appreciate it
This is for movies. Have you thought of doing a video surround for music, as these settings would change?
No because I don't recommend listening to music in surround modes
@@Kpaceguy I get that it’s something some audiophiles often turn their noses up to. Sort of fell into a 5.1 setup (from a 2.1) with the addition of a new pair of older ELAC UF5’s ($399) and a UC5 ($136) onto a pair of UB52’s and an S10.2 used thru a Marantz SR5013. Alan Parson’s Quad/5.1 mix of Dark Side of the Moon sounds great thru it, but would take a hell of a lot of tinkering to get the 5.1 system working for lossless audio (primarily jazz) I listen to.
@init4fun it's a cool effect but it usually puts most the information through the center channel and adds a lot of reverberation to all the other speakers
Nice job, generally. But some of what you are doing is incomplete with regards to the potential for dealing with crossover refinement with the Editor App. Like you saw with your initial run, it is very common to see Audyssey want to call the LCRs Large, and worse, cross them at 40Hz...even with speakers that you know good and well are not capable of being -3dB speakers at that frequency. With the editor app you can, of course, change the config to Small. With some study of the pre-EQ room response in the Editor App, you can then use the Curve Editor to confirm where each speaker's -3dB point is in your room. It's usually close to the speaker's designed -3dB spec. You can and should change the crossover to that frequency, but the real refinement is also telling Audyssey this in a more precise way by reconstructing the target curve of the speaker to reflect that -3dB point. This is quite easy to do in the Curve Editor by setting grabs at an octave above that frequency and at 20Hz. You then manipulate the 20Hz level until the level at the crossover frequency is -3dB below the baseline average spl (that you can estimate in study of the response pre-EQ). What you will see with this when complete in the Curve Editor is the appropriate 2dB per octave roll-off below the crossover point. Audyssey will then apply filters to conform to that curve when you save and load it to the AVR/AVC. This helps smooth transition to the subs and prevents filters chasing things they don't need to.
The choice of the crossover frequency can also be affected by room volume. Headroom is extremely important in the sub-80Hz octaves. Your speakers (and subs) need not only the ability to create the frequencies down there, they need to be able to do so at very loud levels with ease. This is so that they will never be challenged and compress at louder passages, reducing dynamics of the LFE. If your speakers seem to be okay at 60Hz at normal listening levels, do they remain so when called upon to do so at times of loud passages? If you are missing "slam," and you know the source media has it, this could be the problem. Audyssey thinks you want the LCRs to deliver that 60Hz slam, when the room volume might overchallenge the speakers ability to deliver it. Room volume affects this mightily. Choosing a crossover point a bit higher than you might expect (perhaps 80Hz rather than 60Hz) may be just what your speaker needs to be able to roar without strain, turning over the loud lower passages to the subs. As long as the subs have the ability to deliver with plenty of headroom, you will then have the slam. This makes a significant improvement to LF dynamics even at at normal listening levels if you have a large room. Of course, use DEQ. FWIW. Cheers
I failed to add that the pull down on the 20Hz grab will also somewhat affect the entire curve...and needs to be "countered." To do this place a grab at 20KHz and move it such that all of the curve above the LF overlays precisely the primary curve that Audyssey created (the green and red curves). Also, above I used the term "slam," but perhaps that is better used for the lower frequencies, and "punch" might be a better term for dynamic LF content around 60Hz. Rather subjective terms, but you get the idea. Cheers. I enjoyed your video. I'll have to check out more.
Hi I know this video was 3 years ago and english are not my 1st language. Is it compulsory to get my subwoofer tone same as other speakers. Currently my speaker is -12DB and I skip the subwoofer tone test.
New here. Great videos! I am at a dead end, and wondering if you could provide advice on configuring my Sony STR DN1080 w/ Klipsch speakers? Thank you! 🙏🏼
Thanks for watching. Whats your question?
Nice presentation.
Thank you!
I’m having trouble with Acram 11 I need a better computer do you have a recommendation for a easier receiver to calibrate
Sony, anthem, Marantz and Denon, NAD
I always like your video Kpaceguy my question is I have a dual SVS subwoofer I find out lately that Denon x4500h has two channels output but only one channel LFE so i need your advice do I need splitter and use one channel for both subwoofers?
Yes. Only problem with that is that the receiver won't calibrate them independently anymore. So maybe try both and see what sounds best?
Sir i have the marantz sr 7013 and I’m going to setup using your settings to see how mutch better i can get it
Be careful doing that. Speakers and rooms perform differently
Really useful video. Thamk you. One note: I understand the need to monetize the creation, but there are waaaayyyyy to many ads on your video. This will bring people away from your channel.
There should only be 3
6:22 I had to go to positive numbers to get even close to 75 db. Going to watch a flick tonight to see how they sound. I don't want to damage them. My Sensitivity for my Sony Sony SSCS5 is 87 db
Turn the volume knob up to 0db first before setting levels
@@Kpaceguy ya I did that
Hello ! I hope you can help me with this question:
I have a pioneer amp (vsx815) that comes with 100hz xover by default. I have a Bosé Acoustimass 600 speaker.
How much do I set the x over on my amp?
And the ohms at what is recommended?
The speakers have a range of 4-8 ohms, also in the amp I can choose from 6-8 ohms.
Thanks in advance, engineer!
Are your speakers hooked up to the bose subwoofer directly?
Thank you for your video.
I am using Denon avr4500.
Current set up is 3 front towers center + 2 subs.
I am about to Install 4 cieling speakers 2 for front 2 for rear. Also have 2 atmos ! Should i install these to the rear.?
Then I am a little worried how to wire up the new 4 cieling speakers on the amp.
Can you guide me pls.
Once again thank you so much
Your 4 ceiling speakers should be atmos nothing else should be up there
@@Kpaceguy sorry forgot to mention they are
Just re reading your reply. So just front towers a centre and 2 subs for front and then the cieling speakers set as 2 fronts and 2 rear should be a good setup?
Once again really appreciate your quick response
@@alfredcamilleri9238 I'm saying the only thing that should be on the ceiling are atmos speakers. If you want rear speakers, which I think is more important, you should only use 2 atmos speakers on ceiling and 2 rears on the floor or in wall
@@Kpaceguy again thank you. I feel better now as it's more clear.
Hey my yamaha rxv385 cant set up each crossover? So what should i choose? 80hz?
Yes
Kpaceguy I have a maybe problem but when I did the automatic calibration on my Onkyo avr..all is good except my left and right front speaker distance were way off ,the left was 11.5 feet which is good but the right speaker was 2.5 feet distance which of course wrong. My Question is what do you think the receiver did wrong? please advise Thanks.... PS.I re did it several times, I always get the same results....
There's no telling what it thought it needed to do. You could rerun it and it get it right. That's why we go back and make corrections
@@Kpaceguy Thanks a lot, we'll do, keep up the great support...
Your video really helped me tweak post calibration and really improve the sound stage. Much thanks!
Thanks for watching!
After running Audyssey, if you use an SPL meter to level your speakers hitting the MLP at the same volume, do you keep Audyssey and Dynamic EQ on or off? Many AV guys say to turn Audyssy off completely and use external tones to measure speaker volumes but then what happens to those levels iif you turn Audyssey and Dynamic EQ back on? Also is using 75dbs at 0 volume too loud even when you lower the volume?
I keep everything on because that's how I'd use it after setting levels. I turn it off only to do certain calibrations outside of the receiver
@Kpaceguy Thanks, but are you using the AVR's internal tones? From what I've read they bypass Audyssey whereas external tones don't. I'm wondering whether it would be better to use the external tones with Audyssey and Dynamic EQ on. What do you think?
For DB level what should sound volume set on AV Receiver say 30 or 50 or Max
75
Interesting video, but I still have one question. I have an old Bose Acoustimass 6 series III speaker set up - I know you don't like that, but _ when you speak about the LFE dial on the sub and say turn it right up, on the Bose there is a bass dial and an LFE dial - should I turn this up full, or is this a different adjustment. The manual reads like it increases the LFE. Please help
I believe one controls the cube speakers (bass) and lfe is the sub. The crossover is pre set
@@Kpaceguy thanks, so if the crossover is pre-set, what does the LFE control do to the sub?
Not sure if I got this right but audyssey set all speaker levels to 77db +/- 2db. I tuned it further post calibration and set all levels exactly to 77db, set centre and subwoofer + 2db. Also did not lower crossover, but increased them, set all speakers to SMALL. Am I missing something ? Still thinking maybe I need to play around with levels of surrounds & front heights or keep them at 77?
You can turn things up to your needs but make sure if you turn 1 speaker up the same amount to turn everything else up to keep the balance
@@Kpaceguy you mean all channels need to be the same, we do not wanna bump up the centre or the sub? So if it's 77, then all speakers must be 77?
@SutraLETICSS SutraLETICSS no all speakers don't aren't the same volume. They need to be increased the same amount. If you turn the front left speaker up 3 notches you need to turn everything up 3 notches. That doesn't mean every speaker is the same volume level it means that every speaker is balanced at your listening position. You can turn the sub and center speaker as high as you want
Great video to help people understand. My marantz had my center stage to large also . One question . How do I get a pro file for 2ch audio . I e mailed marantz weeks ago ,still don't have a answer ! Thank you
If I remember right under manual settings you have have the option to set up 2ch when you're in 2ch mode. Option to use audessey calibration or not, turn on or off subwoofer. Etc. But I honesty can't remember
@@Kpaceguy thx ... I ll try that later!
If anybody else knows ,please chime in .
Hey Kpaceguy,I have a Sony strdn1080, the volume goes from 0 to 70 I believe. It's doesn't have the db volum e readout like your receiver. How would I level match that, what volume should I turn it to to get the 75db? Thanks.
Not so sure. Maybe just need to turn the volume up to the 80% mark. It'll be pretty close to reference level.
@@Kpaceguy ok, thanks
Should my subwoofer be set 0 phase or 180 phase?
th-cam.com/video/lv-rd15bJKU/w-d-xo.html
Thank yoy
Just bought the marantz sr 7015, my problem is if I put it in stereo it sounds like a tin can, as soon as I change it surround it sounds much better, but turns out it’s just coming through the Center channel, now watching movie all speakers are working
Try all channels stereo
How to maintain manual calibration in Denon 1300
So to clarify, using your speaker setup as an example: If the subwoofer mode is LFE+main, the sub would be getting 120 hertz and below from your front left and right, not just the 40 and below from the crossover setting?
Close. The sub would play everything the mains play plus LFE tracks designated only to the sub
@@Kpaceguy Cool, thank you. I wasn't clear on that. I've heard other TH-camrs say LFE + Main means the LFE channel is sent to the sub and all other speakers. That didn't seem correct.
@@astrotrance that would destroy your speakers lol
I HAVE A DENON AVR S- 730H AND ALL MY SPEAKERS ARE KLIPSCH I HAVE 2 SUBWOOFERS KLIPSCH TO MY SETTING ARE FOR MY KLIPSCH ARE RP-620 MAIN ARE 100HZ CENTER 60HZ SURROUND 80 HZ DOLBY ATMOS 150 HZ AND SUBWOOFER -LFE 120 SOUND IS VERY AWESOME TO TELL YOU I DONT LIKE 40 HZ AT ALL, FOR MY KLIPSCH
hey there unfortunately my receiver does not have a setting for relative volume, at least I cant find it if it does. My volume goes from 0 to 74. Any idea where I should set my volume to when setting the levels with my meter? I been trying to get this answer and have had no success :-). thanks again. you have been very helpful.
I don't know where reference is with that kind of volume meter. I would turn it to maybe 80% of max which is 59 or 60.
Hi!
I am bit confused as you said it's a best to set the crossover based upon the manufacturer frequency response and not higher than 80Hz, what if I have a satellite speakers with frequency response 160Hz to 20KHz, do I need to set crossover to 80Hz or like around 180Hz. Thank you.
The rule of thumb is to set it about 20hz higher than its lowest rates performance frequency. So in your case 180hz
@@Kpaceguy thank you
No problem
For me to get my speakers to 80DB, im in the positives. Fronts are at +10. Is this bad ?
I have a marantz receiver with an emotiva 5 channel power amp rated at 200 watts per channel. The room is 5m wide by 8m long.
What do you recommend ?
Yes it shouldn't have to be that loud at all. Its not necessarily bad but that's pretty high
@@Kpaceguy i found out that my db meter only has A and not the C needed to measure. I think 80 db A is about 90db C lol. So if i put it down to 75db C it should drop alot. Sounds epic though haha. Hopfully i didnt do any damage to the speakers.
How on earth can I hear the test tone if I set the master volume to 0 db? I cannot hear anything when I do this. I have a denon avr x1300w amp
0db if your volume is set to relative scale or -dB value
On my Sub Woofer I have a volume knob only. I do not have a knob that has an LFE marking. What now?
Use the receiver
Turn your knob all the way to max or the highest frequency
Well i did try your settings on music iffy on atmos double iffy so i went back to my original settings on yours the marantz lost Quality on atmos i could not hear the effects I’m gradually building up my original settings i have been dealing in amps a long time and so far the marantz tops the bill in Quality I’m watching youtube for someone to come up with proper settings thankyou anyway
Don't follow the settings on youtube. Your room and your speakers are far different. Nobody's settings will ever be right. You have a better chance at calibrating with auddessy and leaving it alone
Yamaha HTR 3072 AVR
FS & CS - NS-P 350
SS - VX S 5 SURFACE MOUNT
SW - NS - SW 300
ROOM AREA - 130 SQFEET
ALL YAMAHA PRODUCTS
What crossover best for above speakers system. Pl reply. No crossover for individual speaker. Only 1 crossover.
20hz above the lowest frequency response rated by the manufacturer
@@Kpaceguy Means i have to set crossover 80 or 120
Sir, what is the sound difference between Dolby Prologic II Music (All entry level receiver) mode with Dolby Surround (All ATMOS receiver has) ?
Difference is that one is supported in movies and one isnt. All new receivers have dolby surround regardless of it having atmos or not.
@@Kpaceguy kindly tell any receiver model which has dolby prologic II with dolby atmos
@@DIPDISCOVERER none
Sir, you said all spekaer crossover will be 40Hz, what will be setting of my Sub woofer low pass filter ?
@DIP DISCOVERER 120hz
So as u said , cant increase center channel hz beyond 100 ?
So my lower frequency rates ( klipsch 50c rated as 90 ) so which one s better ? 80 or 110 ) if someone can help/ explain !! Totly new to Avrs... thx
You can increase it to whatever sounds best
@@Kpaceguy understood, but as a general rule of thumb which value you suggest ?
@@SuperSteamengine 20hz above it's lowest rated frequency
@@Kpaceguy thx brother ❤️
Question: how do I pull up the Marantz setting on other inputs such as TH-cam, if I’m watching something on TH-cam and I hit setup/options on my AVR nothing comes up on the screen UNLESS I back out of TH-cam, with my ONKYO that was never the case
If you're watching TH-cam via the smart TV app it won't work. Your TV has to be set to the hdmi input you have your receiver plugged into for the receiver info to pop on screen
Use something like Chromecast plugged into one of the hdmi slots
Why all my speakers levels are on +?
Don’t i need to start with the center settings on 0 and then turn noise volume on untill 75db, then continue to get 75db from all speakers?
What receiver are you using
So I have a small basement with the Yamaha YHT 4950 5.1 system. I used the YPAO microphone to set it up for the room. After the calibration, it see that it has a global crossover at 200Hz. So, I ran it again and it's still 200Hz. Is that correct? My friends said that it is too high.
Well I have no idea what speakers you have
I have the standard speakers that came with the set
@@tavonbrown817 It's probably pretty close to correct. Those speakers have very little bass.
@@Kpaceguy Thanks! It still sounds amazing. I want to upgrade to an atmos system. Any recommendations?
@@tavonbrown817 get a newer yamaha receiver
Hi, What do I do if most of the correction are +2 /+2.5db. Is this correct? I have the Marantz 7015 and Gato audio FM15 speakers (front and center)
It's honestly fine. You can leave them there
@@Kpaceguy thx man
@@Kpaceguy I was worrying about the clipping
I see that you have you are running your prime elevations down to 80. Is that safe for them, considering that they only have a 4 1/2” woofer? Reason I am asking is because I am a proud owner of them as of two weeks now, and I have thought about trying them there.
There's definitely comfortable with 80. Rated to 55 so they shouldn't have any real issue
Forgive me if this question has been answered in the comments, but are there any decibel meter apps or decibel devices that you recommend?
Apps on phones are good for the speakers but not for subs. You really want a dedicated meter down to 20hz from Amazon or an electronic store
Thanks for replying! I downloaded a decibel meter on my phone. You said that the decibels should be at 75. However, I had to crank the Level to +10.0 dB using my Yamaha receiver on all of my speakers and they still only got up to around 50 dB! Should I still keep it at that level or is there something wrong with my receivers or speakers, seeing that they only go up to 50 dB on the Test Tone?
@@marvinmccray3585 your receivers volume has to be turned up to 0db or reference first
Kpaceguy thanks!
Distances on XT32 should not be changed. They don’t measure the distance from tweeter. They measure they delays from tweeter to MLP. Leave distances alone.
Haha, I was going to type the same thing as soon as I saw that he was messing with that. lol
The only one I changed was the subwoofer
@@Kpaceguy I was going to say the same. Also for subwoofer the distance is used for the delay to match both subs. It's not a physical measurement, its delay and its in ms. I do the same with a mini dsp. You add delay to one of the sub to match the other so they don't work against each other. My case one of the subs needed a 12ms delay. That's around 13 feet of delay. That's also why you see that ridicules distance number.
@@Quetzalcoatl0 ahh makes sense makes sense
@@Kpaceguy I didn't know that too, it actually came to my mind when i got a miniDSP, because there it says both the ms and the distance. And i always wondered why Audyssey set those huge number for the subs.
what about 5.Small cubicle satellite speakers which have range of 100 hz to 200hz .???
120
Thanks and what LPF for the LFE
Great video and explanation! After you run audyssey do you turn on dynamic eq?
I think i keep dynamic EQ on and auddessy volume off
I have also dual sub but it appears 1 sub only on display
I m so pissed my marantz sr6013 does not have that 2ch playback option ! Errr
As much as that thing was it should def have it. I wish the emotiva xmc 1 was not so buggy I would of bought it already .
Crossover settings in this vid contradicts what u showed us in the last one
How so?
🤔... What about subwoofer??.... The menu said set sub vol to 50% , sub level too set to 75db???
Start at 50 then adjust to 75db
Been using audyssey for many years and I keep switching back to and fro SMALL vs LARGE with LFE+MAIN. and contrary to conventional practise, LARGE sounds a lot better then SMALL. I don't lower crossovers set by Audyssey but do increase them to 20hz over lowest frequency for each speaker. I also prefer a FLAT curve over REFERENCE.
It sounds better for much more unsafe. Some people set it to small and put the crossover at 40hz to still get a full sound that's usually safest
@@Kpaceguy thank you for your reply. if set to small, I always use a window of 20hz over lowest frequency range. My towers go down to 40hz, hence I set them to 60 when SMALL!
No body explain about volume level on AV Receiver while setting DB Level by SPL meter. If I increased AVR volume than automatic volume go to 75 DB on 0 DB level. So what volume level set onAVR say min 30 to Max 97. For each SPEAKERS MY VOLUME LEVEL ON AVR SAME. Suppose I started FL speakers with 60 level on AVR So all speakers it is same. Pl make demonstration video step by step.
Auto calibration should be run at zero db?
It sets it to 0 automatically
@@Kpaceguy I have yamaha 3072 avr and in that I am not allowed to set crossover to each speaker. Just one crossover for LFE. My front 3 speaker is yamaha nsp51. Center channel frequency response 70hz to 36KHZ, front speaker 69hz to 36khz and my sub is 28hz-200hz.how much crossover I can set?
putting your speakers to minus db will make you turn your receiver volume high. any comment on this ?
It's no difference. You'll turn it up the same you always have that's most comfortable to your ears
I have a error 35 my Sony receiver and I can't calibrate
People who are reading the comments. When you run the calibration make sure to use the most points your AVR allows. This will avg the errors that can occur during measurement.
But why all calibration technics mentions speaker as full range instead of small.in my YPAO calibration too,the process tries to fullly utilize speaker capability like 40/60hz instead of doing a cross over.are those engineers really dumb to put that logic of applying 20hz above speaker capability and put that as default crossover? I think if everyone is doing there must be a reason
Great video but you fail to mention when checking your distance with tape measure your Subs distance is always incorrect because Audessey sets the delay/phase distance much more than actual distance, for example your Sub can be 10 feet away but Audessey sets it at 20 feet by calculating the phase
Yes thank you. Some other subscribers mentioned that to me too