GREAT VIDEO! For my exact project Ranger year and model I bought last summer finish8ng it’s full restoration after it sat in a garage in storage after kid who owned it passed away his mom parked it in 2002 I found it 2023! Had to redo a lot as it was not properly stored but looks like it just came out of the factory. After this will drive like it too hopefully lol Thanks guys very well done no waste no fluff. You’re awesome!
I checked the Ford Service Manual. It says "Using a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch master cylinder rod from the clutch pedal pin." So I wedged a screwdriver between the pedal and the rod, and twisted. The rod, along with its crappy plastic bracket came off in one piece. Easy.
I personally like to install the new rod into the cylinder outside of the vehicle. In some cases installation of the new rod requires a extremely hard push or even some hammering. You can also some times get away with leaving the wheel well on.
I didn't hours trying to use the plastic tool that came with. Went to the parts store and got the metal version and it released within 5 minutes. Now what were you saying about blowing the seals? Don't press the clutch until everything's back together and you have brake fluid in it?
Mine has been leaking fluid for 15 years when the weather gets cold.. I never see fluid leaking or on the ground nor around the bell housing and or fire wall.. WTH could be the issue?
im not sure how everyones elses switch connection comes apart but mine certainly didnt just pop right off-i had to remove the whole clutch position switch off 1st-it was a pain in the ass
@@tobyfrederick7865 i broke the clip that attached the push rod to clutch pedal cuz replacement came with new clip-i mangled the white plastic piece that supposed to release the fitting to the slave cylinder before i noticed a metal clip also holding it together-still have not gotten the fitting to snap back together-gonna try jacking up the truck some more so i can better use both hands
How do you push the bar with the plastic piece in the the master cylinder to where is locks. I put the bar on the beale and put the master cylinder and locked it in but its kinda sitting on to and when pushing the pedal down it doesn't lock it in.
I bought a set that was already bled so all I had to do is snap it together and it worked fine. Word of warning, if you do touch the clutch pedal before the engine is back in you will blow the slave cylinder seal out and have to replace it again since it needs the force of the clutch and the transmission pushing on it.
Doesn’t look like it’s a straightforward swap, should be exactly the same as the the 95 ranger mentioned here: www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-tech-37/2-3-3-0-swap-142515/
I had my old lady push the bakes one time to find a leak an it shot into my mouth before I could get out form under the car bake fluid has a hi concentration of alcohol an alcohol Is flammable don't know if it will burn but it will take the skin outta ya mouth for sure ahahaha lol don't try it take my word for it
@@urdad657 Yeah, I've had enough engine problems with this vehicle that I've always ended up pulling the engine out and never have had to pull the trans yet. Unfortunately the trans is on it's way out so my next adventure is going to be pulling the trans out.
@@trucker6689yes this dude is a half ass mechanic I learned absolutely nothing from this video and when he popped the rod and destroyed how? It literally just pops right off with the tiniest bit of pressure
Worst video about this on the Internet. You don't have to take out the engine nor the transmission. You don't take apart the brake and clutch assembly this whole piece just pops out by turning the cylinder at the fire wall then pop the clip to the tranny and take out the screw of the reservoir
for real ive done it like 8 times and im sitting here trying to comprehend people removing the engine to do this. this entire master cylinder change can be done in 5 minutes.
its not a great video but all the others for manual trans for that age rangers indicate that slave cylinder is inside the transmission as opposed to outside like on many other vechials. Its apparently a lot simpler job on earlier rangers. Its not best vid but not the worst
GREAT VIDEO! For my exact project Ranger year and model I bought last summer finish8ng it’s full restoration after it sat in a garage in storage after kid who owned it passed away his mom parked it in 2002 I found it 2023! Had to redo a lot as it was not properly stored but looks like it just came out of the factory. After this will drive like it too hopefully lol
Thanks guys very well done no waste no fluff. You’re awesome!
Perfect timing on this video gents, I'm taking this project on this weekend. Well done and thank you!
How did it go man?
I checked the Ford Service Manual. It says "Using a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch master cylinder rod from the clutch pedal pin."
So I wedged a screwdriver between the pedal and the rod, and twisted. The rod, along with its crappy plastic bracket came off in one piece. Easy.
THank guys. I'm about to do this after work today. I appreciate your video.
Hope the job went well!
This video is horrible why is everyone praising it
I personally like to install the new rod into the cylinder outside of the vehicle. In some cases installation of the new rod requires a extremely hard push or even some hammering. You can also some times get away with leaving the wheel well on.
Quick question after changing this do u have to bleed the slave cylinder
@@jackiehutchison8968 indeed, you must bleed the air out.
Ok I'm working on 91 ranger and got new pushrod won't seem snap in
BRO!... this vid has been missing from Duh YT for-EVAH!... kudos.
I would recommend inspecting changing/greasing the brake/clutch shaft bushing assembly
I didn't hours trying to use the plastic tool that came with. Went to the parts store and got the metal version and it released within 5 minutes. Now what were you saying about blowing the seals? Don't press the clutch until everything's back together and you have brake fluid in it?
I'm really interested!!!and I'm a machine so i want more of this
Mine has been leaking fluid for 15 years when the weather gets cold.. I never see fluid leaking or on the ground nor around the bell housing and or fire wall..
WTH could be the issue?
There is a roller pin on that line you pip out and that line cones right out
How were u able to put the new pushrod into the master cylinder. I can’t get it in no matter how hard I push
It should just click in, are you sure the part is correct for your vehicle?
Having same problem about to weld a few more inches onto the pushrod because I have 2 pushrods laying around. Just to get extra length to pop it in
im not sure how everyones elses switch connection comes apart but mine certainly didnt just pop right off-i had to remove the whole clutch position switch off 1st-it was a pain in the ass
I cant get mine off, what did you have to do?
@@tobyfrederick7865 i broke the clip that attached the push rod to clutch pedal cuz replacement came with new clip-i mangled the white plastic piece that supposed to release the fitting to the slave cylinder before i noticed a metal clip also holding it together-still have not gotten the fitting to snap back together-gonna try jacking up the truck some more so i can better use both hands
How about a 1997? Is it same thing.
How do you push the bar with the plastic piece in the the master cylinder to where is locks. I put the bar on the beale and put the master cylinder and locked it in but its kinda sitting on to and when pushing the pedal down it doesn't lock it in.
Just push hard and it'll snap right in
Will this work on a 97 ranger?
How did you bleed the new line
I bought a set that was already bled so all I had to do is snap it together and it worked fine. Word of warning, if you do touch the clutch pedal before the engine is back in you will blow the slave cylinder seal out and have to replace it again since it needs the force of the clutch and the transmission pushing on it.
Thanks
@@RKAdventures45 ok thanks, I’m just installing a new master cylinder. Not the line. So I would just hammer that pin back in correct?
can you if you put a b3000 engine inside a 1994 b2300 and is their anything you have to change with it?
Doesn’t look like it’s a straightforward swap, should be exactly the same as the the 95 ranger mentioned here: www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-tech-37/2-3-3-0-swap-142515/
These people want to be seen
I had my old lady push the bakes one time to find a leak an it shot into my mouth before I could get out form under the car bake fluid has a hi concentration of alcohol an alcohol Is flammable don't know if it will burn but it will take the skin outta ya mouth for sure ahahaha lol don't try it take my word for it
Engine or tranny has to be out ?
I get it I need the engine out first 😂😂😂
Yep, that or the trans, your choice!
@@urdad657 Yeah, I've had enough engine problems with this vehicle that I've always ended up pulling the engine out and never have had to pull the trans yet. Unfortunately the trans is on it's way out so my next adventure is going to be pulling the trans out.
I've watched 8 videos & all off them skip how to remove the line from master cylinder...
If I remember correctly that’s because the line does not detach from the master, I believe it’s an integrated part of the cylinder.
You have to punch out a roll pin to get the line off the master
@@trucker6689yes this dude is a half ass mechanic I learned absolutely nothing from this video and when he popped the rod and destroyed how? It literally just pops right off with the tiniest bit of pressure
2006 to 2011 is different
Brake fluid is extremely flamable
Has anyone complain about the racism on your video? I see you have slave and master designated.
Thanks for your post.
Regrettably that is just the name which car manufacturers have given them.
Nothing racist about slavery, all races have been slaves.
That was Brilliant !! How they have the "" slave & master "" designated, and, is this racism.
Grinder sparks don’t hurt bro... take it like a man😂
Worst video about this on the Internet. You don't have to take out the engine nor the transmission. You don't take apart the brake and clutch assembly this whole piece just pops out by turning the cylinder at the fire wall then pop the clip to the tranny and take out the screw of the reservoir
for real ive done it like 8 times and im sitting here trying to comprehend people removing the engine to do this. this entire master cylinder change can be done in 5 minutes.
its not a great video but all the others for manual trans for that age rangers indicate that slave cylinder is inside the transmission as opposed to outside like on many other vechials. Its apparently a lot simpler job on earlier rangers. Its not best vid but not the worst
What a pain in the ass
Yes, I have no idea what Ford was doing putting this sandwiched between the engine and transmission.