First off grateful for all you fellows who put on videos to help someone out. I have something to run by you. I have a 1999 Ranger. Fellow I got it off of had put a new Clutch Master Cylinder on it. The clutch pedal only comes up half way to the break pedal. You have to push really hard on the pedal to get it in gear and takes hold right away when releasing the pedal. I figured there was still air in the lines so I took out the cylinder and bench bled it and appeared all the air was out, no more bubbles. I put it back in and bled the slave cylinder. Pedal still half way up and can not get it in gear. Figured wrong master cylinder, thinking the push rod was to short reason pedal only half way up. So I ordered a new one OEM ford product. It is exactly the same as the aftermarket one that is on there. So question is. Why would pedal still be half way up when connected. Assuming pedals are supposed to be same height. When connecting the rod I have to push the pedal down to meet rod length causing half pedal. In my pea brain I can't think just getting all the air out would give you more pedal travel. Shouldn't the pedals be the same height before you even started the bleeding processed. I am stumped. Again thanks for what you do on here
How did you guys get the piston rod in the cylinder, mine won’t seem to go in. Mine seems to have to little clips that push out when you push the rod in, and then snap back into place to lock the rod in. But it won’t seem to go past the clips
Mine literally just popped in but I've heard of other people having to line it up hook it to the pedal and press on the clutch pedal to pop it in you might want to try that.
The pushrod will lock into the master cylinder when installed. If the rod snaps, there’s no way to remove it. A new master cylinder will need to be acquired, whether it’s a salvaged piece or new unit. (I purchased a new one from O’Reilly’s for $55+ taxes, it has the new rod and pedal bushing/clip) The new unit is installed after using a Phillips screwdriver or drift punch to bleed (as the video shows) and prime the new cylinder, then use the drift tool to remove and lock in the line using the original roll pin (looks like a long ‘c’ clip) going to the transmission. I’m doing this tomorrow after work in a parking lot in Idaho in February. But , not too bad!
I know it was the first video I ever made I actually just wiggled it up in there and move the pedal out of the way and hooked it all up if I ever do another one I'll make another video.
Stopping recording in order to DO something is the worst thing you could do to us, imho. I came here to see how things come apart & go together, so I can do it once I get the visual. Like how does that clutch safety come apart? How did you actually use a hammer and nail punch to get that pin out & not lose anything? The devil is in the DETAILS!! Please don't stop an instructional "how to" video to do something & not show it.
You did not show the important parts, " let me do this and I'll be right back ." Astoundingly useless effort. Delete this dribble and make a comprehensive video. You can do it.
Thanks guys. I'm about to do one this evening after work. I appreciate your video. Thank you
First off grateful for all you fellows who put on videos to help someone out. I have something to run by you. I have a 1999 Ranger. Fellow I got it off of had put a new Clutch Master Cylinder on it. The clutch pedal only comes up half way to the break pedal. You have to push really hard on the pedal to get it in gear and takes hold right away when releasing the pedal. I figured there was still air in the lines so I took out the cylinder and bench bled it and appeared all the air was out, no more bubbles. I put it back in and bled the slave cylinder. Pedal still half way up and can not get it in gear. Figured wrong master cylinder, thinking the push rod was to short reason pedal only half way up. So I ordered a new one OEM ford product. It is exactly the same as the aftermarket one that is on there. So question is. Why would pedal still be half way up when connected. Assuming pedals are supposed to be same height. When connecting the rod I have to push the pedal down to meet rod length causing half pedal. In my pea brain I can't think just getting all the air out would give you more pedal travel. Shouldn't the pedals be the same height before you even started the bleeding processed. I am stumped. Again thanks for what you do on here
Didn't show how to remove the master cylinder or any of the actually important parts that are difficult.
Agree. Pretty much everything was already taken out.
You Are my hero. Bro thanks so much for your video my name is Conrad you are the. Bomb!
My 1994 ranger needs a master cylinder replacement and this truck looks just like mine helpful video
How did you remove the pushrod from the master cylinder? Just pull on it real hard?
For bleeding the master ?
No, to replace the rod. But I got advice not to do so and just replace the entire master.
Yes I had to do the same thing
Thanks for the video, helpful info 👍
How do I get the rod into the master cylinder
That was super helpful
You should have included how to get te shaft out of tge master cyl inside
How did you remove the old pushrod? I'm afraid to pull too hard on it so there must be an easier way, right??
How long should it take to change the clutch master cylinder
@@rickfishersr2597 about an hour.
hey man i got a 02’ 5spd rwd 3.0 id assume the process is pretty much the same since ur trans has the same cylinder placement?
Yes I'd say it's most likely the same.
good job !!!
Thx
How did you guys get the piston rod in the cylinder, mine won’t seem to go in. Mine seems to have to little clips that push out when you push the rod in, and then snap back into place to lock the rod in. But it won’t seem to go past the clips
Mine literally just popped in but I've heard of other people having to line it up hook it to the pedal and press on the clutch pedal to pop it in you might want to try that.
@@briandumas83 I ended up using a hammer. Thanks :)
How do you remove the push rod itself mine snapped and need to replace on my 93
There's actually a clip inside of it that holds it in sometimes if you pull really hard it'll pop out
The pushrod will lock into the master cylinder when installed. If the rod snaps, there’s no way to remove it. A new master cylinder will need to be acquired, whether it’s a salvaged piece or new unit. (I purchased a new one from O’Reilly’s for $55+ taxes, it has the new rod and pedal bushing/clip) The new unit is installed after using a Phillips screwdriver or drift punch to bleed (as the video shows) and prime the new cylinder, then use the drift tool to remove and lock in the line using the original roll pin (looks like a long ‘c’ clip) going to the transmission. I’m doing this tomorrow after work in a parking lot in Idaho in February. But , not too bad!
@@briandumas83When it pops out can you just force it back in? Or would you need a whole new rod or master cylinder assembly?
You did not show how you were able to get the part up enough to twist it into position.
I know it was the first video I ever made I actually just wiggled it up in there and move the pedal out of the way and hooked it all up if I ever do another one I'll make another video.
They can be so hard to bleed that they sell a Master cyc kit that is Pre bleed from the factory
8mm, not 10mm
Stopping recording in order to DO something is the worst thing you could do to us, imho. I came here to see how things come apart & go together, so I can do it once I get the visual. Like how does that clutch safety come apart? How did you actually use a hammer and nail punch to get that pin out & not lose anything?
The devil is in the DETAILS!! Please don't stop an instructional "how to" video to do something & not show it.
You did not show the important parts, " let me do this and I'll be right back ." Astoundingly useless effort.
Delete this dribble and make a comprehensive video. You can do it.