I ran into these connectors with no idea how they were to release. Instructions were terrible for old dirty system. I really appreciate what you did here. This was REALLY GREAT ! ! !
took a while (3 weeks of searching youtube, bunches of vids) can't blame you guys, these platforms are crooked as everything trying to make anyone pay to have your content show up. anyway i found you, have used your parts for years. just needed to pull the hydraulic line to check a leak and until your video i was stumped. thank you guys.
I actually worked with this guy before, I has shot some video for him at the perfection shop a few years ago, I don't know if they ever used my video I shot for them though.He put a clutch in my 1999 Miata for me, and taught me a thing or two about clutch assembly, very smart fellow he is. It was cool seeing this video. Once again he is teaching me how to remove and re attach my part for my Miata.
Dear Team Perfection, I Can't thank you enough for putting this video and the Ranger Clutch bleed video on-line for us. My son and I followed your example to a "T" and his truck is shifting into gear perfect and smooth once again. The Truck is at 167K miles and we will absolutely buy our new clutch from you guys once needed. Thanks for turning this job into a good learning experiance for a father/son team who does all our own work. Thanks, Kent & Jake from Parkville, Missouri
i have been looking all over the internet for some how to put that line in just to find i was puttig the clip in wrong the whole damn time. thank you guys yall are life savers
@@davidgallegos3214 where did you buy one or what did you do to jerry rig it because i broke mine trying to put it on (the wrong way apparently) and im not sure the one i ordered will work but fingers crossed.
well i got it i wasn't getting it packed far enough it was very trying thanx gary you are the man now its working blench bled from your. other video works like a dream
Great video. I have a 2004 Silverado 3500 salt/snow truck in shop. Has a thin red plastic clip that is salty and brittle. My connector is up by firewall. Update- found one of your wrenches in my toolbox. Didnt work due to brittle rim and corrosion inside. Used large visegrip on 1 side, small vise grip on other side, managed to break the corrosive seal while my face planted in the brake master cylinder. I greased it up like a pig before reassembling. Also if anyone has a damaged clip,it can be pulled out and replaced with a pick but if your outer lip is corroded off, use vise grips on edge, then insert the precision clutch tool ht-01, then pry away.
Very informative. Did a clutch job on a 98 Ranger last year and wished I watched this video before I started! The quick connect was the style without the lip on the end, so I had to push it in, and push it in farther with a screwdriver like you showed before it came free. I was getting pretty nervous!
A little update on the truck we were working on. I bled the whole system and after reinstalling the master cylinder. I looked at my uncle and said well..bud.. you need a slave cylinder! So we removed the transmission again and put a slave cylinder in it! Pretty much he hopped in it and has been driving it since.. thankfully the new slave cylinder came with a plastic grommet ring for the hydraulic hose and an O ring! I heard not all do so I'm sure if the O ring looks good a person wouldn't have to change it but we did anyways since the parts were at hand and readily available.. Thanks for the help guys.
The second connecting system (with the white colored sleeve) I found on a '97 Trans Am. Took two small screw drivers, packed it in and disconnected it. I did have to take a pair of slip joint pliers and rotate the line back and forth GENTLE while I pulled on the line. After a shot of PB Blaster, it slipped right out and line was reusable. Side note... try not to mess up the line. The only way GM services the line is with the master cylinder. Not cheap and a major pain to replace!
In some manuals they recommend disassembling the throw out bearing and greasing it inside prior to installation. I've got your 360016 and am ready to install it, should it be disassembled / greased or anything prior to installation? Thanks again for your great products and support! Truly impressive!
If I can’t get it to work, I’m doing everything that you guys have mentioned and I have the old style without the lip. I can’t seem to get that tool or a screwdriver to get it deep enough to let go of that line.
Cut the line and use a compression union with delrin or brass ferrules to join back together, I've even patched copper tubing segments to repair damaged plastic line. (still holding after 15 years.)
Thanks for this video. I find the system with the teeth keeps a much better connection than the clip. My clip slipped off and fell INTO the slave housing in the transmission, so hopefully I can retrieve it by taking off the starter. Plugging a magnet into the peek hole didn't pull it out. I may just replace the new slave with another because I am not confident it will stay connected!
The 90 deg shoulder may be damaged. I will double check this week . if so it's not damaged that much from what I remembered. So if the edge is damaged just a bit, can I file to get that edge . Also I was also thinking about sort of clamping them together. like a 1 inch C clamp with a rubber center or like heat strink tubing holding it inplace. cause when it does connect . I tug on it and it holds strong, but after abit of driving it releases. Yes I still have the sleeve and it looks fine.
Gary, have you ever heard of the clip suddenly coming off resulting in the master cylinder line disconnecting from the slave? This happened to me while driving about 150miles after putting in the new slave.
So an older master cylinder head could have been the reason for the disconnect? I was only alarmed because the line disconnected after over 100 miles. No assumption of deception, your videos are very well done. If you have an email address I can PM you rather than keep posting comments.
Thanks for the fast reply Gary, I looked at the video several times and I guess when I was trying to pushed the male in I must have bent the clip. You have to understand it was on an offroad trail when the hose came off.. I pulled the clip and it is bent on one side.Is there a way I can get a replacement clip?Thanks....
That was a great video! I have an 88 Ranger that I need to remove the transmission and was unsure on how to get the Hydraulic clutch line out of the transmission. I'm much more confident now! Thank you Perfectioncluth!
I just did this last week. what a pain! What I ended up doing is some how getting one of the corners in- the whole thing was crooked, but then I was able to get tough with it and get it in there. YOu need a second person to help gruide it. I had my wife, who is pregnant and moody helping. It was not so much fun, but I couldn't have done it without her.
i purchased a clutch kit with a new slave cylinder, i didn't receive the line tool. hopefully line will not need to be changed, had good time wrestling with it.
To modify the line connection, carefully grind 1/16 inch groove in line fitting where clip rides . This will give more of a shoulder to hold clip from popping apart. I live in northern New York with rough roads. 3 months of driving the clip popped. This mod will works.
I'm sorry, grinding wasn't the best word. I use a small 1/4 drive die grinder to carefully create more of a shoulder to hold the clip. I have not seen your replacement connector line. You have to admit , there is not enough shoulder on the OE line for the clip . If you folks could make a better / more aggressive connection you will double your sales. Everything else about your clutch components is excellent !
Sir, the clip is not a durable hold for the very small ridge that is there to hold. On rough roads it pops within a few months of driving. Other than that your clutch components are outstanding.
Can Performance supply a new sliding sleeve, o-ring, and tool ? I managed to get the coupler disconnected and it looks like it may have been the flangeless sliding sleeve.
They changed the design of the male and female connectors. The metal clip is no longer used. Is there a video on how to disconnect the new design? I'm battling it now, getting the sleeve to slide in and push those inside finger-type round prongs enough to release the male connector.
Working on a 97 ranger and I keep getting air in the line. Tomorrow morning I am going to remove the cylinder at the pedal and do the upside down air bleed technique. I am convinced it will completely fix the situation but am completely sure your video I just watched has the answers to the culprit. I noticed on the truck I am doing maintainance work on ..that the clip is intact and the hose is secure but that it does not in fact have a plastic sheathing ring. The rubber O ring looks exceptionally well but I am curious now. Does that plastic sheathing ring sustain some type of alignment that keeps air from seeping back into the hydraulic system during clutch pedal release?..Ive replace front and rear bearings in the bellhousing and installed a new stage 1 clutch and pressure plate but.... the pedal was as my uncle called it soft.. I got to his house today with plans to do the aforementioned technique and noted the pedal wasn't even connected to the hydraulic piston rod.. I found the little plastic clip for the pedal and put it back in and then added an extra clip to it to secure it in its mounting format. Then I said try that.. I laughed for ten minutes thinking he wasn't even aware it was not connected.. then to my dismay found.. the pedal was soft.. solo. I crawled under and bled the system at bleeder port.. then noted.. the whole system was gradually getting worse.. I bled it again and then decided we would pull the master cylinder at the pedal and would wait until tomorrow to do it.. I did crawl under the truck again and removed the hydraulic main line running to the transmission and that is where while watching your video later this day.. in retrospect awareness to its lack of having a plastic ring have decided. To go ahead and remove the master cylinder to just try it for luck.. but feeling deep down inside.. I hate wasting time especially if I really feel like that is where the air is getting into the line... aghhhhh... I love it.. can I pick up a plastic line coupler at the auto parts store ? I don't want to pull the master cylinder twice?
I noticed the slave cylinder that you guys offer for my f150 has a black clip in it, and the current one I am going to replace has the "small fingers". Will the male plug on the master work with either one?
@perfectionclutch oh sorry we had a miscommunication, there is no crack but he says he needs either a slave cylinder or an arm extension? not quite sure what he means. but what can this affect he said hes been driving it like that for a year? should i buy it or should I avoid it?
I have a 2000 Firebird with a T56 transmission, and I replaced the slave cylinder with one that has the sliding clip, but after about a week of driving, it failed and ejected the hose from the master cylinder. I bought a new clave cylinder, pulled the transmission back out, and went with the spring tab style slave cylinder, and that one is ejecting immediately when I push the clutch in while trying to bleed the system. I've pushed it in as far as it will go, and I can't pull it out by hand, but as soon as there's any hydraulic pressure, the hose ejects from the slave cylinder. Am I doing something wrong, or is either my master cylinder or slave cylinder defective? I've had the transmission out twice now and had to buy two brand new slave cylinders, and I really do not want to pull the transmission out a third time in my driveway.
Having a little issue, just purchased a master/ slave cylinder Assy from orileys, looks identical to the one in the video, once I installed it, the pedal is extremely hard, but fluid is still circulating, but if I press to hard the line to the slave pops out, any ideas?
The answer is simple. pull the small roller pin both on the slave cylinder, as well as the roller pin on the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall on the truck. slip an AN3 Russel threaded connector at each end, retain with the roller pins you pulled earlier, and then thread on a braided metal line. (48 inch long line) www.amazon.com/Russell-640281-SAE-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B002Q37CHS
I installed a new clutch slave cylinder today on my 1989 f150 the old style had the clamp fingers the new one has the clip the hose will not connect to the new cylinder no matter how had I press on it but connect to the old one very easy
I just wish you would have made it clear at the store that I really need to buy the whole thing or it's not going to snap together at the transmission point for the hydraulic line can be totally different but look the same
Hi there! Please advise what the problem as I am really struggling to select gears in the mornings or whenever my 2004 Saab 93 Aero 2.0 T SS has been parked either overnight or during the day. My charge seem really low and as a result the car starts moving forward or backward whilst in the starting process. On top of my gearbox seems to be some oil sweat or it might be leakage. How do I fix or bleed the clutch to normalize it. Please advise...
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
I changed my clutch Saturday on my 97 ranger I disconnected the quick release hose from slave and after changing clutch put it back on it snapped in like in video but now clutch pedal kinda soft hard to get in first gear did air get in line somehow when disconnected line little fluid came out but not much at all I opened slave bleeder and that helped peddle little bit
Just recently installed both a new slave and master cylinder from Perfection clutch. Great parts and ease of installation but the disconnect on the slave where the new line connects is leaking slowly. I bled it properly, checked for any kinks, disconnected and reconnected... Can't figure it out.
98 Ranger with very FIRM clutch pedal .. the travel from extended to the floor and back is smooth yet the clutch slips with even moderate power especially in 4th & 5th.. My thought is that the disk is worn and the pressure plate can't release enough for the clutch to grab? I was hoping to find that is not the case as not looking forward to dropping all the 4x4 xfercase etc
Sorry I had not included more info... 98 Ranger 4x4 4.0L ohv off road version with limited slip rear & I think the HD transmission VIN 1FTZR15X0WPAxxxxx (not thinking the last numbers determine equipment installed and also not keen on public posting full VIN) used meaning WAS some one else's problems are now mine with zero idea what has been done (or not) with it. ( am SOO N O T looking forward to doing this but it is useless if it won't grab... )
good video! do you make these hydraulic lines with straight forward couplers for a 2007 for focus 2.0L? i have been trying to pull the line from my clutch master cylinder and its unbelievable for difficult it is because of rust. thanks.
@@perfectionclutch thanks for the reply, Gary. I have removed the C clip. I cannot twist it because it is incredibly difficult. I have stripped the coating on the wire and scratched the copper to the point of possible damage. I managed to get a slight gap with my pulling and prying to get a dime to fit and wedged. A dime and quarter worked to get a larger gap for two coins, but I cannot believe how seized this thing is. I need to use the line again. I would love to cut it and replace if I could.
@@perfectionclutch I am not sure what the previous owner put, but thr clutch master cylunder has been changed before. Thanks for taking the time to write. I think I may be able to pull it better with bent nose pliers. Anyway, it is unbelievable how stuck it is. The O-ring is probably why it is so difficult to remove more so than bad rust.
The little plastic clip on my line cracked and blew out of the cylinder. do you sell just the clip? or should i replace the whole slave cylinder again?
Don't know if somebody will read this, but... I own a 95' Ford Ranger 2.3 and lately the clutch has been giving me terrible problems, first it was partially fixed by adding brake fluid in the main reservoir once a week, now the fluid just goes down by day, I found that fluid was scaping at the bottom of the transmission, I did not see any problem on the main line neither the master cylinder, so the only alternative I saw was the slave cylinder. Is there anyway of pulling it out without tearing apart the transmission?
How are you I have a 99 toyota camry just had the clutch replaced and now it's hard to put it in gear the shop gave it to me like that and said I need a master cylinder for the clutch do you think that would fix my problem or did they not bleed it long enough
Can the female quick connector in the slave be purchased separately? What about the white plastic bushing / locking mechanism on the male end can it be purchased?
So what does the slave cylinder actually do I just got a 1993 F-150 XLT 4.9 6 cylinder 4x4 with a 5 speed it slips I guess as the guys was reving it up and it was barely moving reved way up i thought and would get slightly going is that a slave issue or clutch?
I didn’t have a problem getting it out, I had a problem with keeping it in. I had something looked like the clip ( ranger ) but it was only holding on by .002 “ or so. I made a ring to fit around it and had two set screws to help hold it in. Now about 4 years later it still in there but I need to take it off.
@@ViSioNxJoK3z I had to find a metal ring just the right diameter and drill and tap for couple either no. 8- 32 or 10- 32 screws to hook in the groove better where the tiny clip goes. Kind of hard to explain, need pictures.
Have been trying to purchase one of these for a couple weeks. Multiple contact us attempts. Very odd website with no way to purchase and pay online. Almost like they don't want to sell these.
Im running into a problem im unable to find my truck any ideas its a 2000 dodge dakota sport 3.9l v6 with the manual 5 speed! I need some help on how to replace the entire clutch system
. I didn't install the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder properly and it popped back out. Now I can't get the line to reattach. I can push the line into the slave cylinder, but it will not click into place. Any ideas on what im doing wrong?
The clip on the connection is all smashed. I seen that you could potentially cut the line and just reattach. That works right? Wouldn't have to worry bout it?
No, never topped the clutch fluid since I bought the car....where do I locate the clutch fluid as I only found the brake fluid and power steering fluid compartments as yet....where do I bleed the clutch on my '04 Saab 93 Aero? I appreciate your assistance....
I ran into these connectors with no idea how they were to release. Instructions were terrible for old dirty system. I really appreciate what you did here. This was REALLY GREAT ! ! !
Dear Perfection Clutch Group. All of the tooling & Instructions & Know how, & Quality. its just KILLER.
took a while (3 weeks of searching youtube, bunches of vids) can't blame you guys, these platforms are crooked as everything trying to make anyone pay to have your content show up. anyway i found you, have used your parts for years. just needed to pull the hydraulic line to check a leak and until your video i was stumped. thank you guys.
I actually worked with this guy before, I has shot some video for him at the perfection shop a few years ago, I don't know if they ever used my video I shot for them though.He put a clutch in my 1999 Miata for me, and taught me a thing or two about clutch assembly, very smart fellow he is. It was cool seeing this video. Once again he is teaching me how to remove and re attach my part for my Miata.
I just got one of these from you guys. $52 thank you and the video just saved me time.
The best video about the hydraulic clutch connection.
I burped my master cylinder today. Perfect method. Worked a treat!
Dear Team Perfection,
I Can't thank you enough for putting this video and the Ranger Clutch bleed video on-line for us. My son and I followed your example to a "T" and his truck is shifting into gear perfect and smooth once again. The Truck is at 167K miles and we will absolutely buy our new clutch from you guys once needed. Thanks for turning this job into a good learning experiance for a father/son team who does all our own work.
Thanks, Kent & Jake from Parkville, Missouri
i have been looking all over the internet for some how to put that line in just to find i was puttig the clip in wrong the whole damn time. thank you guys yall are life savers
Where can I buy another clip I lost mine I've been to all auto stores and the Chevy dealer no one Carry's them
@@davidgallegos3214 where did you buy one or what did you do to jerry rig it because i broke mine trying to put it on (the wrong way apparently) and im not sure the one i ordered will work but fingers crossed.
well i got it i wasn't getting it packed far enough it was very trying thanx gary you are the man now its working blench bled from your. other video works like a dream
This vid just saved me a ton of headaches! Thanks 👍
You are very professional and have exactly the info I need. I am impressed
Great video. I have a 2004 Silverado 3500 salt/snow truck in shop. Has a thin red plastic clip that is salty and brittle. My connector is up by firewall. Update- found one of your wrenches in my toolbox. Didnt work due to brittle rim and corrosion inside. Used large visegrip on 1 side, small vise grip on other side, managed to break the corrosive seal while my face planted in the brake master cylinder. I greased it up like a pig before reassembling. Also if anyone has a damaged clip,it can be pulled out and replaced with a pick but if your outer lip is corroded off, use vise grips on edge, then insert the precision clutch tool ht-01, then pry away.
Very informative. Did a clutch job on a 98 Ranger last year and wished I watched this video before I started! The quick connect was the style without the lip on the end, so I had to push it in, and push it in farther with a screwdriver like you showed before it came free. I was getting pretty nervous!
Thanks buddy ... i was at a loss !! APPRECIATE YOU
Whoever come up with this design needs to be. Dealt with in a horrific way This is terrible, this is so awful, it's unreal.
They were a lifesaver for me. I received the part I needed. Thanks for all your help
Where did you get this part.
All info is welcome.
A little update on the truck we were working on. I bled the whole system and after reinstalling the master cylinder. I looked at my uncle and said well..bud.. you need a slave cylinder! So we removed the transmission again and put a slave cylinder in it! Pretty much he hopped in it and has been driving it since.. thankfully the new slave cylinder came with a plastic grommet ring for the hydraulic hose and an O ring! I heard not all do so I'm sure if the O ring looks good a person wouldn't have to change it but we did anyways since the parts were at hand and readily available.. Thanks for the help guys.
Thank you, sir, saved us a bunch of time
thk u SOOO much your a wizard i was stuck till i saw this video!!!
Thanks so much i thought i got the wrong slave cylinder and was going to have to replace it again. So, glad i watched your video first.
gracias por su explicacion la mas completa-thanks for your explanation the most complete
GREAT VIDEO! Thank you so much! It helped me while doing this repair for the first time!!
Thanks. I remember watching this clip and glad I found it again as I was having a hard time removing my transmission line.
I'm having problems removing mines from the transmission it's chewed up how do I remove it
@@williamhayes3005 I'm not really sure.
The second connecting system (with the white colored sleeve) I found on a '97 Trans Am. Took two small screw drivers, packed it in and disconnected it. I did have to take a pair of slip joint pliers and rotate the line back and forth GENTLE while I pulled on the line. After a shot of PB Blaster, it slipped right out and line was reusable. Side note... try not to mess up the line. The only way GM services the line is with the master cylinder. Not cheap and a major pain to replace!
In some manuals they recommend disassembling the throw out bearing and greasing it inside prior to installation. I've got your 360016 and am ready to install it, should it be disassembled / greased or anything prior to installation? Thanks again for your great products and support! Truly impressive!
If I can’t get it to work, I’m doing everything that you guys have mentioned and I have the old style without the lip. I can’t seem to get that tool or a screwdriver to get it deep enough to let go of that line.
You did gods work thank you I appreciate you
EXCELENTE VIDEO!!!!😎👍
Cut the line and use a compression union with delrin or brass ferrules to join back together, I've even patched copper tubing segments to repair damaged plastic line. (still holding after 15 years.)
Thanks for this video. I find the system with the teeth keeps a much better connection than the clip. My clip slipped off and fell INTO the slave housing in the transmission, so hopefully I can retrieve it by taking off the starter. Plugging a magnet into the peek hole didn't pull it out. I may just replace the new slave with another because I am not confident it will stay connected!
The 90 deg shoulder may be damaged. I will double check this week . if so it's not damaged that much from what I remembered. So if the edge is damaged just a bit, can I file to get that edge . Also I was also thinking about sort of clamping them together. like a 1 inch C clamp with a rubber center or like heat strink tubing holding it inplace. cause when it does connect . I tug on it and it holds strong, but after abit of driving it releases. Yes I still have the sleeve and it looks fine.
Gary, have you ever heard of the clip suddenly coming off resulting in the master cylinder line disconnecting from the slave? This happened to me while driving about 150miles after putting in the new slave.
So an older master cylinder head could have been the reason for the disconnect? I was only alarmed because the line disconnected after over 100 miles. No assumption of deception, your videos are very well done. If you have an email address I can PM you rather than keep posting comments.
I just bought one of this clutch systems for my bronco and it also disconnected while traveling on a dirt road.. Now I can't get it to lock in...
Thanks for the fast reply Gary, I looked at the video several times and I guess when I was trying to pushed the male in I must have bent the clip. You have to understand it was on an offroad trail when the hose came off.. I pulled the clip and it is bent on one side.Is there a way I can get a replacement clip?Thanks....
That was a great video! I have an 88 Ranger that I need to remove the transmission and was unsure on how to get the Hydraulic clutch line out of the transmission. I'm much more confident now! Thank you Perfectioncluth!
i really like your video
The question I have is does your company sell a replacement o-ring and that slip sleeve that keeps the clutch line in place ?
I just did this last week. what a pain! What I ended up doing is some how getting one of the corners in- the whole thing was crooked, but then I was able to get tough with it and get it in there. YOu need a second person to help gruide it. I had my wife, who is pregnant and moody helping. It was not so much fun, but I couldn't have done it without her.
Great video. I have the older line connector
Ranger with the older system as well. I have the ring all the way compressed as far as it can go you can’t see it still can’t get the line out.
i purchased a clutch kit with a new slave cylinder, i didn't receive the line tool. hopefully line will not need to be changed, had good time wrestling with it.
Thank you this helped a lot
To modify the line connection, carefully grind 1/16 inch groove in line fitting where clip rides . This will give more of a shoulder to hold clip from popping apart. I live in northern New York with rough roads. 3 months of driving the clip popped. This mod will works.
I'm sorry, grinding wasn't the best word. I use a small 1/4 drive die grinder to carefully create more of a shoulder to hold the clip. I have not seen your replacement connector line. You have to admit , there is not enough shoulder on the OE line for the clip . If you folks could make a better / more aggressive connection you will double your sales. Everything else about your clutch components is excellent !
Sir, the clip is not a durable hold for the very small ridge that is there to hold. On rough roads it pops within a few months of driving. Other than that your clutch components are outstanding.
I had my line pop off in 20 blocks. Was not happy.
@@danhutchins9353 I can't keep the line in my 94 F150.
Can Performance supply a new sliding sleeve, o-ring, and tool ? I managed to get the coupler disconnected and it looks like it may have been the flangeless sliding sleeve.
They changed the design of the male and female connectors. The metal clip is no longer used. Is there a video on how to disconnect the new design? I'm battling it now, getting the sleeve to slide in and push those inside finger-type round prongs enough to release the male connector.
Nevermind.....I see it at the 3 min. mark.
Working on a 97 ranger and I keep getting air in the line. Tomorrow morning I am going to remove the cylinder at the pedal and do the upside down air bleed technique. I am convinced it will completely fix the situation but am completely sure your video I just watched has the answers to the culprit. I noticed on the truck I am doing maintainance work on ..that the clip is intact and the hose is secure but that it does not in fact have a plastic sheathing ring. The rubber O ring looks exceptionally well but I am curious now. Does that plastic sheathing ring sustain some type of alignment that keeps air from seeping back into the hydraulic system during clutch pedal release?..Ive replace front and rear bearings in the bellhousing and installed a new stage 1 clutch and pressure plate but.... the pedal was as my uncle called it soft.. I got to his house today with plans to do the aforementioned technique and noted the pedal wasn't even connected to the hydraulic piston rod.. I found the little plastic clip for the pedal and put it back in and then added an extra clip to it to secure it in its mounting format. Then I said try that.. I laughed for ten minutes thinking he wasn't even aware it was not connected.. then to my dismay found.. the pedal was soft.. solo. I crawled under and bled the system at bleeder port.. then noted.. the whole system was gradually getting worse.. I bled it again and then decided we would pull the master cylinder at the pedal and would wait until tomorrow to do it.. I did crawl under the truck again and removed the hydraulic main line running to the transmission and that is where while watching your video later this day.. in retrospect awareness to its lack of having a plastic ring have decided. To go ahead and remove the master cylinder to just try it for luck.. but feeling deep down inside.. I hate wasting time especially if I really feel like that is where the air is getting into the line... aghhhhh... I love it.. can I pick up a plastic line coupler at the auto parts store ? I don't want to pull the master cylinder twice?
I wish you would have gave the part number for the Ford clip
Thanks, great video!
THANK YOU!!!!! This video is a lifesaver!!!! THANKS!!!
Very good info guys. Thanks
great educator Thank you
I noticed the slave cylinder that you guys offer for my f150 has a black clip in it, and the current one I am going to replace has the "small fingers". Will the male plug on the master work with either one?
@perfectionclutch oh sorry we had a miscommunication, there is no crack but he says he needs either a slave cylinder or an arm extension? not quite sure what he means. but what can this affect he said hes been driving it like that for a year? should i buy it or should I avoid it?
I have a 2000 Firebird with a T56 transmission, and I replaced the slave cylinder with one that has the sliding clip, but after about a week of driving, it failed and ejected the hose from the master cylinder. I bought a new clave cylinder, pulled the transmission back out, and went with the spring tab style slave cylinder, and that one is ejecting immediately when I push the clutch in while trying to bleed the system. I've pushed it in as far as it will go, and I can't pull it out by hand, but as soon as there's any hydraulic pressure, the hose ejects from the slave cylinder.
Am I doing something wrong, or is either my master cylinder or slave cylinder defective? I've had the transmission out twice now and had to buy two brand new slave cylinders, and I really do not want to pull the transmission out a third time in my driveway.
Having a little issue, just purchased a master/ slave cylinder Assy from orileys, looks identical to the one in the video, once I installed it, the pedal is extremely hard, but fluid is still circulating, but if I press to hard the line to the slave pops out, any ideas?
I'm having a similar issue
I tried pushing in like you showed, but mine doesn't fit at all. Any advice?
Is the line the same or is it proprietary to the clip system kit
The answer is simple. pull the small roller pin both on the slave cylinder, as well as the roller pin on the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall on the truck.
slip an AN3 Russel threaded connector at each end, retain with the roller pins you pulled earlier, and then thread on a braided metal line. (48 inch long line)
www.amazon.com/Russell-640281-SAE-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B002Q37CHS
Im looking to buy the clip alone (@5:00) any idea where I can find one? or the part number?
I also need one. Any luck?
great video. very informative
Battleskarz81 Fox ,
🙏👍Hell yes. Just bought a ls1 with a t56
They cut the line at the transmission. Hopefully it will still disconnect.
Im looking to buy one of those sleeves too
How about the other side of the line,getting the pin out to release the line from the master?
Thank God I finally found this video I must have watched 20 about Slade cylinders but nobody actually tells you how to disconnect that line
I installed a new clutch slave cylinder today on my 1989 f150 the old style had the clamp fingers the new one has the clip the hose will not connect to the new cylinder no matter how had I press on it but connect to the old one very easy
I just wish you would have made it clear at the store that I really need to buy the whole thing or it's not going to snap together at the transmission point for the hydraulic line can be totally different but look the same
Am I hallucinating or is that sleeve filled with some sort of active fluid? Looks like it's boiling in there 2:22
Lol.. I see it too
I saw it too
How does that gold part stay in without falling out?
Where can you order new retainer clips ?
Where can I buy that clip. I’ve looked and asked around everywhere
Did you ever have any luck on finding this clip WITHOUT having to buy a brand new slave cylinder?
@@jasonconley2929 did you lol having the same problem on my ranger
Do you sell clutch and slave kits or just the connectors?
Hi there!
Please advise what the problem as I am really struggling to select gears in the mornings or whenever my 2004 Saab 93 Aero 2.0 T SS has been parked either overnight or during the day. My charge seem really low and as a result the car starts moving forward or backward whilst in the starting process. On top of my gearbox seems to be some oil sweat or it might be leakage. How do I fix or bleed the clutch to normalize it. Please advise...
Does removing the clip affect the check valves? In one video the guy says don't remove clip.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
I changed my clutch Saturday on my 97 ranger I disconnected the quick release hose from slave and after changing clutch put it back on it snapped in like in video but now clutch pedal kinda soft hard to get in first gear did air get in line somehow when disconnected line little fluid came out but not much at all I opened slave bleeder and that helped peddle little bit
just a little fluid out is to much,,u must bleed the line ,,u don't want no air at all,,beleve me.
Just recently installed both a new slave and master cylinder from Perfection clutch. Great parts and ease of installation but the disconnect on the slave where the new line connects is leaking slowly. I bled it properly, checked for any kinks, disconnected and reconnected... Can't figure it out.
98 Ranger with very FIRM clutch pedal .. the travel from extended to the floor and back is smooth yet the clutch slips with even moderate power especially in 4th & 5th..
My thought is that the disk is worn and the pressure plate can't release enough for the clutch to grab?
I was hoping to find that is not the case as not looking forward to dropping all the 4x4 xfercase etc
Sorry I had not included more info... 98 Ranger 4x4 4.0L ohv off road version with limited slip rear & I think the HD transmission VIN 1FTZR15X0WPAxxxxx (not thinking the last numbers determine equipment installed and also not keen on public posting full VIN)
used meaning WAS some one else's problems are now mine with zero idea what has been done (or not) with it. ( am SOO N O T looking forward to doing this but it is useless if it won't grab... )
Very good desde ARGENTINA thenkiu avery mach
Is there anyway to just replace the line without messing with the couplers or the master cylinder?
good video! do you make these hydraulic lines with straight forward couplers for a 2007 for focus 2.0L? i have been trying to pull the line from my clutch master cylinder and its unbelievable for difficult it is because of rust. thanks.
@@perfectionclutch thanks for the reply, Gary. I have removed the C clip. I cannot twist it because it is incredibly difficult. I have stripped the coating on the wire and scratched the copper to the point of possible damage. I managed to get a slight gap with my pulling and prying to get a dime to fit and wedged. A dime and quarter worked to get a larger gap for two coins, but I cannot believe how seized this thing is. I need to use the line again. I would love to cut it and replace if I could.
@@perfectionclutch I am not sure what the previous owner put, but thr clutch master cylunder has been changed before. Thanks for taking the time to write. I think I may be able to pull it better with bent nose pliers. Anyway, it is unbelievable how stuck it is. The O-ring is probably why it is so difficult to remove more so than bad rust.
The little plastic clip on my line cracked and blew out of the cylinder. do you sell just the clip? or should i replace the whole slave cylinder again?
Never mind.i fixed the conection but it turns out the brass both inside and out side are worn out in less than a year. i just have to get my warrenty
Don't know if somebody will read this, but...
I own a 95' Ford Ranger 2.3 and lately the clutch has been giving me terrible problems, first it was partially fixed by adding brake fluid in the main reservoir once a week, now the fluid just goes down by day, I found that fluid was scaping at the bottom of the transmission, I did not see any problem on the main line neither the master cylinder, so the only alternative I saw was the slave cylinder. Is there anyway of pulling it out without tearing apart the transmission?
I need to know what size the two bolts that are holding the slave cylinder on what size and thread pitch they are
How can I obtain just the Plastic retainer/Keeper?
Is this also availeble for my jeep wrangler yj 2.5 1991.
Wher can i get this connection.
Greetings from Belgium
Greetings from belgium.
How are you I have a 99 toyota camry just had the clutch replaced and now it's hard to put it in gear the shop gave it to me like that and said I need a master cylinder for the clutch do you think that would fix my problem or did they not bleed it long enough
Many thanks Fixed my problem and calmed my frustration.
Can the female quick connector in the slave be purchased separately? What about the white plastic bushing / locking mechanism on the male end can it be purchased?
So what does the slave cylinder actually do I just got a 1993 F-150 XLT 4.9 6 cylinder 4x4 with a 5 speed it slips I guess as the guys was reving it up and it was barely moving reved way up i thought and would get slightly going is that a slave issue or clutch?
Lmao so two men couldn't figure out how to insert this line into the slave cylinder. I watch your video and bam....its fixed. I'm dying. Lol
I didn’t have a problem getting it out, I had a problem with keeping it in. I had something looked like the clip ( ranger ) but it was only holding on by .002 “ or so. I made a ring to fit around it and had two set screws to help hold it in. Now about 4 years later it still in there but I need to take it off.
how did you make this my clip broke on my ranger and ive been trying everything to jerry rig it back on
@@ViSioNxJoK3z I had to find a metal ring just the right diameter and drill and tap for couple either no. 8- 32 or 10- 32 screws to hook in the groove better where the tiny clip goes.
Kind of hard to explain, need pictures.
Have been trying to purchase one of these for a couple weeks. Multiple contact us attempts. Very odd website with no way to purchase and pay online. Almost like they don't want to sell these.
Im running into a problem im unable to find my truck any ideas its a 2000 dodge dakota sport 3.9l v6 with the manual 5 speed! I need some help on how to replace the entire clutch system
Do you sell the slave Master fitting separately?
Can you make a video on how to re attach the first system you disconnected?
. I didn't install the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder properly and it popped back out. Now I can't get the line to reattach. I can push the line into the slave cylinder, but it will not click into place. Any ideas on what im doing wrong?
can you replace the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder on a 97 S10 without removing the transmission
The clip on the connection is all smashed. I seen that you could potentially cut the line and just reattach. That works right? Wouldn't have to worry bout it?
No, never topped the clutch fluid since I bought the car....where do I locate the clutch fluid as I only found the brake fluid and power steering fluid compartments as yet....where do I bleed the clutch on my '04 Saab 93 Aero? I appreciate your assistance....
I have a Honda Accord 2002 , my connector looks beat and all smashed would this be causing a reason to why my brake fluid is leaking ?
Do yall have a part number for that clip, I am unable to find one in that style anywhere on the internet or any race/parts stores in my area. Thanks!
Did you have any luck? I'm looking for the same plastic release clip.
called a clutch hyrdraulic clip i believe
I lost the oring. What size is it? Thank you