What I learned from this video is that I'll be ordering this from the factory. Man, that's a lot of work. As clueless as I am my Jeep would never be right again.
Thanks for watching! I would strongly recommend paying for the trailering package if you’re ordering. You get so much for a rather decent price. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. It was an unbelievable help. I want to share a few things that gave me trouble and how I overcame them. Hopefully this will help others out a bit. 1 - I had a hard time getting seeing where to put the cable thru the firewall. I ended up taking the wheel off. This allowed me to open up the plastic from the wheel well quite a bit more and get my hand up there. After I pulled the wires thru I found that I was at least 6 inches short on the wires for the back of the Aux switch. After swearing the company for having short wires I did some trouble shooting. I pulled back the wheel well plastic (even more this time) and saw that I had routed the wires around another wire bundle (remember I didn't originally have a good view of the fire wall grommet). I pulled them all back out and re-routed. Fixed the issue. This last time I pulled back the plastic I had a great view of the entire area from lying down on my back on the garage floor. I put a good amount of electrical tape on the length of the bundle to keep all the wires together (ie the orange and then AUX power wires) when going thru the fire wall. I used a sewing thread cutter tool to remove the tape once the lines were thru. That way i didn't have to worry about cutting the wire when removing the tape (it was hard to see where to pull off from my wrapping - perhaps operator error) @t 2 - I had a hard time removing the orange wire from the bundle. I really had to push hard. I was a bit concerned that I would break it. Also I had a difficult time getting the new wire into the OEM connector. I ended up raising up the black connector wire guide an inch or so. I found that raising it a lot (~ 1 inch) provided a lot of visibility. I was able to stick the new wire through the black guide and then then push it into the connector with a needle nose pliers and then a screw driver. 3 - I couldn't get the orange wires to seat properly into the supplied 2 pin connector. After spending a bunch of time on it I ended up not using the connector. I just inserted the pin side into the female side (the one that came out of the OEM connector) and secured it with a piece of shrink wrap. One note - if you have the 4 cylinder turbo, you should have a 48 V battery. I believe the ground to this is in back of the 2 grounds in the video (with the 10 and 13 mm nuts) Be sure to remove this piece from the ground (body) and isolate it before you start working. As with most things I think I could to this job in 1/3rd the time on a second try. Hope this helps others.
So the Uconnect settings definitely work for this kit. I had read a few places that the mopar kit was not programable. I intend to use the two 15A buttons as momentary to trigger my winch in and out.
I’ve watched this type of video a couple times - seems to be totally worth getting the tow package pre-installed, given you also get a higher amp battery and alternator.
Removing the connector pins would have been nice as I found that difficult. Also make sure to disconnect the negative battery connections as the main battery and auxiliary battery located under the fuse box connect through there. Explains why your 4 way hazards worked when you had the negative terminal off. Great job on the video.
Thanks for watching! I had temporarily returned the negatives to test the system when I did a reshoot of that upper panel removal that’s why the hazards came on!
Thanks for this helpful video. I also had a problem with the connector for the 2 orange wires and the auto start-stop no longer working. The problem was the male pin did not go into the male side of the connector far enough for the pin to protrude on the inside and to snap into place. The fix was to reach inside the male side of the connector with needle nose pliers and pull out the white inside lock slightly. This will allow the pin to slide in all the way, lock into position and protrude inside, then you can push the white piece back down into place. If you don’t see the small pin sticking out inside of the connector it can’t engage the female side.
Thanks much for sharing your experience and how you found a way to fix it. I'm sure others contemplating this installation can learn from your solution! Thanks for watching.
Excellent step-by-step installation video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. I know it's been a few years since you made this. But I have a quick question. I know you ended up soldering the two orange wires. Does the orange wire (wire from the Mopar switch harness) you insert back into the factory harness - slot where you removed the orange wire from the 13th position - have a purpose? Does it make a connection and complete that circuit/connection? Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! It is appreciated. Yes, that orange wire does have a purpose, but I'm not sure exactly what it is. I got several errors from the Jeep when that wire wasn't well connected - things having to do with traction control and braking - and that's how I found out it wasn't making a connection with the supplied connector. Good luck if you decided to do this installation!
Good question - it is a bit confusing. The instructions require removing the orange wire from the back of that large connector and replacing it with the same style orange wire from the new harness. Then that orange wire that was removed is placed into another single-wire barrel connector that comes with the new wiring kit, and it ultimately connects to the 2nd more pointy orange wire from the new kit in that new connector. Are you even more confused? The instructions are pretty descriptive on this, but as you'll see below, many have had trouble getting those two orange wires to connect in the new connector - I wound in frustration and did not use the new connector from the kit and just put the two wires together. Good luck!
Great video, first time watcher and some great tips in the comments. Am glad you suggested to read them. Question, the mopar instructions I have seen say remove orange wire #13. Not even the 5th from the right as I’ve seen in most videos. Has something changed?? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching! I don't know if things have changed, but it is certainly within the realm of the possible. It's probably best to follow those instructions despite what you see in my or other videos on the subject. Good luck!
i’ve been thinking about getting the system for my JLU and hooking them it up with my rigid 360 lights. only one concern: how do they match with lights that can have 3 settings? i.e. on/backlight/off (the same way a 3 rocker switch would work). is that possible to set up on the system?
I recommend you check the owner's manual for your particular year and model. I can't be sure how things may or may not have changed since this installation, but once activated by a dealer, I had access to a configuration page that allowed me to configure the setting. That said, I'm not sure they would work in the manner you are looking for. Perhaps a JLU forum post would get you a better answer?
@@4LowRocks Thanks for your response! turns out you can hook them up to one higher amp and one lower amp switch to control both light settings. Many thanks for your video!
Thanks for watching! There's not much room back there at all - it would have to be a pretty small CB unit. I used an all-in-one CB system (there is a video on it) with an external antenna that worked well until my club completely eliminated use of the CB.
Hey dude. Thank you very much for the install video. This was VERY helpful. Just finished my install. Thanks to your vid this made install take about 3 hours start to finish. I do have a question though, if you don’t mind. Install went good and I feel really confident in everything. My Tazer doesn’t come until next week. Until then, will the switches light up at all when you press them? I’m trying to decide if a wiring connection isn’t working or if they just aren’t “active” at all until I update with Tazer. Thanks!
Michael, I don't think the Jeep's system will pass current to the switch connector unless the system is "told" that they exist (by activating with the Taser). That said, I had issues after activating where they wouldn't light up nor pass voltage to the pig tails. In my case, I didn't get the orange wires in the kick panel in that new connector very well, and I wound up just soldering those wires together. Congratulations! Those switches add a lot of utility.
4LowRocks thank you very much. That’s what I wondered. I’ll update this week and hopefully work. I’ve heard so many stories about people having issues with that orange wire.
Anyone have a newer 2021+ Jeep that has that 7 pin/10 slot connector already installed and wired, hidden behind the cubby? I followed the instructions to a tea and can't get the switch to work, however if I use the existing 7 pin and plug into the switch it works right away- lights and Uconnect control. However, because it's not part of the kits harness, I can't control the relays. My fuse box doesn't have the relays or fuses. It's like I have a partial AUX kit from the factory. Uggg.. Anyone else in my boat get this kit working?
Awesome video - love all your videos! I got stuck on my instal trying to get the orange wire out of the wiring harness. Any tips you can give me to get the wire to release? Did you use a depin tool? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Yes, I did use a set of tools for pin pushing and setting that I found on Amazon. They're not super expensive, but they did come in hand for that stubborn orange wire setup! Good luck.
Thanks for watching. Truth be told I had a heck of a time with that orange wire in the bundle under the right hand kick panel using the connector supplied with the wiring kit. I almost took it to the dealer to have them finish the installation. I wound up not using the connector and using a shrink/solder connector to put the two wires together, and the other one goes into the block connector per the instructions. I think that orange wire has something to do with the computer because until I figured out that it wasn't making a good connection using the plastic connector from the kit, I was getting various errors (such as ESS not functioning) on the dash, and I could not get the computer to activate the switches. You'll find lots of other helpful feedback in the comments below as others have had the same situation with that orange wire set up. Good luck!
At around the 6:49 mark, how did you remove the door switch harness connector off the bolt ? Mine doesn't want to slide off (easily) and I don't want to break it. Thank you.
Hi Greg, I recall that it wasn't too difficult in my installation; just had to pull it straight out - it's one of those plastic fluted body fitment doohickies that just pushes into the hole. At least that's the way it is in my 2018 model; things can and do change.
4LowRocks Thank you for the quick response. I also have a 2018 JL so we’re in business! I’ll just give it an extra little pull now that I know. Thanks again, really appreciate it!
4LowRocks Hello Mike, on my 2018 JLUS, to remove the top piece of the wiring connector, this is what I learned. From the bottom side the release is between the connector and the body. Use a tool (screwdriver or something similar) and press the tab towards the body and away from the connector and pull down on the connector. It simply slides off in a downward pull towards the floor. Thanks again.
Ken, there are three versions of the switching unit depending on original trim in the Jeep. You can find them on allmoparparts.com, and the part numbers are 82215798AB, 82215798AC, 82215798AD
will your switches still work if you don’t flash your computer to the uconnect system? Should the little orange light on the switch still light up once you press it before you flash it?
Frank, I don't think they will work without telling the computer that they're installed. I also had a dealer tech add the parts to the Jeep's build inventory. And, yes, that light needs to come on, and the letters on the buttons will illuminate when the headlights are on and all of the other switches illuminate. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
I put it all the wires. Butons. All light on. Program switches with tazer yes. but I can’t see the auxiliare switches in the uconect?? What happen?? Can you help me with this issued. Thanks
Hi Fernando, that is most interesting. I would recommend using the Taser again to disable the auxiliary switches, reboot it using the Taser, then enable the switches again and reboot it all again. I hope this helps!
Thanks for watching, Tim. I found an opportunity on that grommet just to the left and slightly down from center. That was, to me, the best I could do at getting that bundle through.
I wouldn't think so - these switches are not (that I know of) connected to the computer system that controls the running gear. You would have to ask that question to a Jeep mechanic. Good luck.
I used a special wiring tool set purchased from Amazon ... similar to: www.amazon.com/dp/B09GYN1HN2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09GYN1HN2&pd_rd_w=vcrtr&pf_rd_p=887084a2-5c34-4113-a4f8-b7947847c308&pd_rd_wg=xdISR&pf_rd_r=28QHBWE05SJ1C3T9FHPA&pd_rd_r=e9ab2c7a-eeb1-412d-9069-4ec53221ee88&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWDRMWk5TU0Q2U04xJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTgyNjQyMlhKMkJLMklHVlVKUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDI4NzQ3MjM0WTNZSEsxUUs3WCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Need some help. I installed the factory switches, the problem I'm having at this point is the switches do not illuminate, I'm not talking about the orange light, Im talking about the switch lettering. I have power getting to the switch, but it does not light up. I have not flashed the computer yet, I'm getting a Tazer JL on Monday, will that solve my problem or do I need to look elsewhere??
Thanks for watching. Yes, I do believe that the system will not send power to the switches, including the background lights, until you flash the computer using your Taser, or take it to a dealer to have service do the flash. Just FYI, I had huge issues with that orange line connecter that was added in the passenger's kick panel, as have many other. I wound up not using it and physically connecting the wires which resolved all my issues. If you see start/stop or door warning issues after you flash the computer, this could be your culprit. Best luck!
@@ikentrouble Keeping my fingers cross that it'll all suddenly come alive once you activate it with the Taser. One more thing you might check - the main inline fuse just after the battery connection - a few of us had bad fuses there.
OK, the switches are lit up like they should. I hooked up one of my lights and turned the switch on and the light did not come on. I started up the Jeep and still no light. I'll keep working on it. At least I'm making some progress. @@4LowRocks
@@ikentrouble Did you go into the UConnect configuration and enable the individual switches? You need to tell each one how it operates. See my video on my off road lights installation -- the configuration is in that video.
@@04flamedyfz1 no, that price is just for the parts. I don't know what a dealer would charge - probably varies greatly depending on local labor rates. Installation was tough but not prohibitively difficult. Good luck!
Gary, thanks for watching. I'm really sorry I can't help you on that as I'm not familiar with the Gladiator. I did find some help on Quadratec's site, so maybe they have something there. I would hope they've improved the installation! Good luck.
The four colored leads that I showed under the hood near the battery and under the passenger side kick panel are used to power accessories. You’ll also need to provide a ground for each connection. I’ll show this in a coming video. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this vid. It was super helpful in doing this install myself. I had a few issues that thought could be better explained, but overall pretty darn good. Once I buttoned everything up and restarted the car, I notice that ESS is no longer available. I'm wondering if this is because I haven't tazer'd the U-Connect to recognize the AUX switches yet (tazer is on order)? Or did I screw something up in the process? Thanks in advance for any help...
I had that issue as well - I could not get those two orange wires in that new connector under the passenger side kick panel to reliably connect. I wound up removing that connector and soldering and shrink wrapping the connection. I don’t think activating the harness via the Taser will resolve that issue. Good luck!
That saved me a ton of headache. I verified that it was the two orange wire connector. I had futzed with that thing for an hour during the initial install because it isn't obvious that you've pushed the pins in far enough. I get that the waterproof connector is designed for those times that you've got water in the interior, but it seems overdesigned. I like your solution - simple. Thanks!
Crap! Tazer came in, installed and programmed uconnect for aux switches, no problem. Lights on switches not working however. I found the 5A fuse on the main 12V connector was blown. Unfortunately, replacing that fuse didn't fix the problem. New fuse did not blow, but I wonder, was other damage done? Any ideas?
@@ryanburd666 Thanks for watching! I had similar problems; the 5A fuse was blown, replacing it didn't help. I found the two orange wires in the passenger side kick panel weren't making good connection in that new connector. I would up removing that new connector, using electrical tape to hold the two wires together, and things started to work. I then soldered them together and sealed the connection in shrink tubing. Hope this helps!
Everyone's video on this install omits that part! Yeah, it took me a few days to get through that ordeal, to be honest. Depinnning the orange wire wasn't that big of a deal for me - I used a good set of pin tools to push it out, but I absolutely could not get it to connect in the replacement connector. Jeep threw all kinds of codes. I eventually threw the new connector away and wired the two connections directly together in a permanent manner (don't see the need to remove it anyway). Hope you have better luck with it.
It is! I used a heavy coat hanger cut with snips so it was relatively sharp. Then make sure to tape it all up well and grease it before pulling it back through. Good luck!
@@4LowRocks Welp....I damanged that orange wiring try to get it out of the harness....car won't start now...I guess take to the dealer and see if they can repair the cable?
Patrick you can buy some pin extractors on Amazon or at an auto parts store. You should be able to push that pin out of the connecter and solder it back together.
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What I learned from this video is that I'll be ordering this from the factory. Man, that's a lot of work. As clueless as I am my Jeep would never be right again.
Thanks for watching! I would strongly recommend paying for the trailering package if you’re ordering. You get so much for a rather decent price. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. It was an unbelievable help. I want to share a few things that gave me trouble and how I overcame them. Hopefully this will help others out a bit.
1 - I had a hard time getting seeing where to put the cable thru the firewall. I ended up taking the wheel off. This allowed me to open up the plastic from the wheel well quite a bit more and get my hand up there. After I pulled the wires thru I found that I was at least 6 inches short on the wires for the back of the Aux switch. After swearing the company for having short wires I did some trouble shooting. I pulled back the wheel well plastic (even more this time) and saw that I had routed the wires around another wire bundle (remember I didn't originally have a good view of the fire wall grommet). I pulled them all back out and re-routed. Fixed the issue. This last time I pulled back the plastic I had a great view of the entire area from lying down on my back on the garage floor. I put a good amount of electrical tape on the length of the bundle to keep all the wires together (ie the orange and then AUX power wires) when going thru the fire wall. I used a sewing thread cutter tool to remove the tape once the lines were thru. That way i didn't have to worry about cutting the wire when removing the tape (it was hard to see where to pull off from my wrapping - perhaps operator error) @t
2 - I had a hard time removing the orange wire from the bundle. I really had to push hard. I was a bit concerned that I would break it. Also I had a difficult time getting the new wire into the OEM connector. I ended up raising up the black connector wire guide an inch or so. I found that raising it a lot (~ 1 inch) provided a lot of visibility. I was able to stick the new wire through the black guide and then then push it into the connector with a needle nose pliers and then a screw driver.
3 - I couldn't get the orange wires to seat properly into the supplied 2 pin connector. After spending a bunch of time on it I ended up not using the connector. I just inserted the pin side into the female side (the one that came out of the OEM connector) and secured it with a piece of shrink wrap.
One note - if you have the 4 cylinder turbo, you should have a 48 V battery. I believe the ground to this is in back of the 2 grounds in the video (with the 10 and 13 mm nuts) Be sure to remove this piece from the ground (body) and isolate it before you start working.
As with most things I think I could to this job in 1/3rd the time on a second try. Hope this helps others.
Dave, thanks for watching and for the excellent feedback! I’m sure your firsthand experience will be of value to others! Happy Wheeling!
Very thorough video, great job. Illustrated the steps very clearly. Thanks man
Thanks very much for the positive feedback!
So the Uconnect settings definitely work for this kit. I had read a few places that the mopar kit was not programable. I intend to use the two 15A buttons as momentary to trigger my winch in and out.
Great job! I like that you didn't need to take it to the dealer to flash it. I might need to get that Tazer!
Thanks for watching! The Tazer is worth the dollars if you are going to use it for more than one setting! It really does a lot!
I’ve watched this type of video a couple times - seems to be totally worth getting the tow package pre-installed, given you also get a higher amp battery and alternator.
I would completely agree with you. The things that come with the towing package are well worth the price!
@@4LowRocks i enjoyed watching you work though - really thorough!
Removing the connector pins would have been nice as I found that difficult.
Also make sure to disconnect the negative battery connections as the main battery and auxiliary battery located under the fuse box connect through there. Explains why your 4 way hazards worked when you had the negative terminal off.
Great job on the video.
Thanks for watching! I had temporarily returned the negatives to test the system when I did a reshoot of that upper panel removal that’s why the hazards came on!
Awesome video! Now waiting on the instruction video for actually hooking up lights via the new aux switches. Thanks!
Thanks! I’ll be working on that video soon! Thanks for watching.
BillyDangWrangler, the video on installing the lights is up!
Just a tip - Use a small drill bit and drill out those 4 rivets on the fender.
That's a good tip - thanks for sharing. For the purposes of the video, I wanted to follow the MOPAR instructions that came with the kit.
Thanks for this helpful video. I also had a problem with the connector for the 2 orange wires and the auto start-stop no longer working. The problem was the male pin did not go into the male side of the connector far enough for the pin to protrude on the inside and to snap into place. The fix was to reach inside the male side of the connector with needle nose pliers and pull out the white inside lock slightly. This will allow the pin to slide in all the way, lock into position and protrude inside, then you can push the white piece back down into place. If you don’t see the small pin sticking out inside of the connector it can’t engage the female side.
Thanks much for sharing your experience and how you found a way to fix it. I'm sure others contemplating this installation can learn from your solution! Thanks for watching.
Excellent step-by-step installation video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. I know it's been a few years since you made this. But I have a quick question.
I know you ended up soldering the two orange wires.
Does the orange wire (wire from the Mopar switch harness) you insert back into the factory harness - slot where you removed the orange wire from the 13th position - have a purpose? Does it make a connection and complete that circuit/connection? Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! It is appreciated. Yes, that orange wire does have a purpose, but I'm not sure exactly what it is. I got several errors from the Jeep when that wire wasn't well connected - things having to do with traction control and braking - and that's how I found out it wasn't making a connection with the supplied connector. Good luck if you decided to do this installation!
@@4LowRocks Yeah. I've watched a few videos. Yours was really smooth. I'm going to tackle this install.
I completed this install a few weeks ago. Turned out great. I'd say the most difficult part was getting the wires through the firewall-grommet. Tough!
Great work!
Awesome video. Very very helpful thanks.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found the video to be helpful.
Very well done 👍
Thanks - sure was a lot of work, but the outcome was worth the effort.
Awesome Video. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching and for the compliment!
At 10:10, what got disconnected? I am kind of confused on the wiring there. I dont want to mess anything up and things dont work right anymore.
Good question - it is a bit confusing. The instructions require removing the orange wire from the back of that large connector and replacing it with the same style orange wire from the new harness. Then that orange wire that was removed is placed into another single-wire barrel connector that comes with the new wiring kit, and it ultimately connects to the 2nd more pointy orange wire from the new kit in that new connector. Are you even more confused? The instructions are pretty descriptive on this, but as you'll see below, many have had trouble getting those two orange wires to connect in the new connector - I wound in frustration and did not use the new connector from the kit and just put the two wires together. Good luck!
Great video, first time watcher and some great tips in the comments. Am glad you suggested to read them. Question, the mopar instructions I have seen say remove orange wire #13. Not even the 5th from the right as I’ve seen in most videos. Has something changed?? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching! I don't know if things have changed, but it is certainly within the realm of the possible. It's probably best to follow those instructions despite what you see in my or other videos on the subject. Good luck!
i’ve been thinking about getting the system for my JLU and hooking them it up with my rigid 360 lights. only one concern: how do they match with lights that can have 3 settings? i.e. on/backlight/off (the same way a 3 rocker switch would work). is that possible to set up on the system?
I recommend you check the owner's manual for your particular year and model. I can't be sure how things may or may not have changed since this installation, but once activated by a dealer, I had access to a configuration page that allowed me to configure the setting. That said, I'm not sure they would work in the manner you are looking for. Perhaps a JLU forum post would get you a better answer?
@@4LowRocks Thanks for your response! turns out you can hook them up to one higher amp and one lower amp switch to control both light settings. Many thanks for your video!
@@fatimaalshamsi4445 Good deal! Glad you were able to configure it as desired. Thanks for the compliment.
Just curious as to how much room is behind the rubicon switches? Thinking about mounting a CB there.
Thanks for watching! There's not much room back there at all - it would have to be a pretty small CB unit. I used an all-in-one CB system (there is a video on it) with an external antenna that worked well until my club completely eliminated use of the CB.
Hey dude. Thank you very much for the install video. This was VERY helpful. Just finished my install. Thanks to your vid this made install take about 3 hours start to finish. I do have a question though, if you don’t mind. Install went good and I feel really confident in everything. My Tazer doesn’t come until next week. Until then, will the switches light up at all when you press them? I’m trying to decide if a wiring connection isn’t working or if they just aren’t “active” at all until I update with Tazer. Thanks!
Michael, I don't think the Jeep's system will pass current to the switch connector unless the system is "told" that they exist (by activating with the Taser). That said, I had issues after activating where they wouldn't light up nor pass voltage to the pig tails. In my case, I didn't get the orange wires in the kick panel in that new connector very well, and I wound up just soldering those wires together. Congratulations! Those switches add a lot of utility.
4LowRocks thank you very much. That’s what I wondered. I’ll update this week and hopefully work. I’ve heard so many stories about people having issues with that orange wire.
@@michaelhalstead64 same here - seems to be quite common with that connector. Good luck!
@21:50 how did you button up the inner wall again? did you have to buy new plugs?
Anyone have a newer 2021+ Jeep that has that 7 pin/10 slot connector already installed and wired, hidden behind the cubby? I followed the instructions to a tea and can't get the switch to work, however if I use the existing 7 pin and plug into the switch it works right away- lights and Uconnect control. However, because it's not part of the kits harness, I can't control the relays. My fuse box doesn't have the relays or fuses. It's like I have a partial AUX kit from the factory. Uggg.. Anyone else in my boat get this kit working?
Awesome video - love all your videos! I got stuck on my instal trying to get the orange wire out of the wiring harness. Any tips you can give me to get the wire to release? Did you use a depin tool? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Yes, I did use a set of tools for pin pushing and setting that I found on Amazon. They're not super expensive, but they did come in hand for that stubborn orange wire setup! Good luck.
On minute 10:00 you bypass the orange wire . my connector in different and i have 2 orange wires . can you tell what the orange wire in for ?
Thanks for watching. Truth be told I had a heck of a time with that orange wire in the bundle under the right hand kick panel using the connector supplied with the wiring kit. I almost took it to the dealer to have them finish the installation. I wound up not using the connector and using a shrink/solder connector to put the two wires together, and the other one goes into the block connector per the instructions. I think that orange wire has something to do with the computer because until I figured out that it wasn't making a good connection using the plastic connector from the kit, I was getting various errors (such as ESS not functioning) on the dash, and I could not get the computer to activate the switches. You'll find lots of other helpful feedback in the comments below as others have had the same situation with that orange wire set up. Good luck!
At around the 6:49 mark, how did you remove the door switch harness connector off the bolt ? Mine doesn't want to slide off (easily) and I don't want to break it. Thank you.
Hi Greg, I recall that it wasn't too difficult in my installation; just had to pull it straight out - it's one of those plastic fluted body fitment doohickies that just pushes into the hole. At least that's the way it is in my 2018 model; things can and do change.
4LowRocks Thank you for the quick response. I also have a 2018 JL so we’re in business! I’ll just give it an extra little pull now that I know. Thanks again, really appreciate it!
4LowRocks Hello Mike, on my 2018 JLUS, to remove the top piece of the wiring connector, this is what I learned. From the bottom side the release is between the connector and the body. Use a tool (screwdriver or something similar) and press the tab towards the body and away from the connector and pull down on the connector. It simply slides off in a downward pull towards the floor. Thanks again.
@@greghull3189 yeah, its been a few year since I did this video, thanks for the info!
When you added the auxiliary switches did you use the Tazer mini or Tazer Lite to update the computer?
I used the original Tazer JL to update the settings in the Jeep (and to change tire size settings as well).
Does anyone have the MOPAR OEM part # for this switch & harness???
Ken, there are three versions of the switching unit depending on original trim in the Jeep. You can find them on allmoparparts.com, and the part numbers are 82215798AB, 82215798AC, 82215798AD
@@4LowRocks thank you much appreciated!!
will your switches still work if you don’t flash your computer to the uconnect system? Should the little orange light on the switch still light up once you press it before you flash it?
Frank, I don't think they will work without telling the computer that they're installed. I also had a dealer tech add the parts to the Jeep's build inventory. And, yes, that light needs to come on, and the letters on the buttons will illuminate when the headlights are on and all of the other switches illuminate. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
4LowRocks Thank you for the reply i appreciate it. i’ll keep you posted as to what happens
I put it all the wires. Butons. All light on. Program switches with tazer yes. but I can’t see the auxiliare switches in the uconect?? What happen?? Can you help me with this issued. Thanks
Hi Fernando, that is most interesting. I would recommend using the Taser again to disable the auxiliary switches, reboot it using the Taser, then enable the switches again and reboot it all again. I hope this helps!
4LowRocks fixed!! 👍🏻 thanks for your help!!
So glad to hear that you got it working! Now its time to wire up some lights! Good luck.
While going through firewall grommet did you go via center or around the grommet? Looks impossible going into the center. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, Tim. I found an opportunity on that grommet just to the left and slightly down from center. That was, to me, the best I could do at getting that bundle through.
Thanks, So I’m not going crazy! You’re a good man, God bless!
@@timo5174 Be sure to pull back the wheel well plastic quite a bit (I took the tire off) It gives you a much better view.
Hi can I engage an axle assemblies lockers to the jl computer using this switch?
I wouldn't think so - these switches are not (that I know of) connected to the computer system that controls the running gear. You would have to ask that question to a Jeep mechanic. Good luck.
What did you pic the terminals with?
I used a special wiring tool set purchased from Amazon ... similar to: www.amazon.com/dp/B09GYN1HN2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09GYN1HN2&pd_rd_w=vcrtr&pf_rd_p=887084a2-5c34-4113-a4f8-b7947847c308&pd_rd_wg=xdISR&pf_rd_r=28QHBWE05SJ1C3T9FHPA&pd_rd_r=e9ab2c7a-eeb1-412d-9069-4ec53221ee88&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWDRMWk5TU0Q2U04xJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTgyNjQyMlhKMkJLMklHVlVKUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDI4NzQ3MjM0WTNZSEsxUUs3WCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Watching this video just made up my mind that I WONT be getting the mopar switch. That amount of dis·as·sem·ble is ridiculous. Going with Voswitch!
It was a challenge to say the least! Thanks for watching.
Need some help. I installed the factory switches, the problem I'm having at this point is the switches do not illuminate, I'm not talking about the orange light, Im talking about the switch lettering. I have power getting to the switch, but it does not light up. I have not flashed the computer yet, I'm getting a Tazer JL on Monday, will that solve my problem or do I need to look elsewhere??
Thanks for watching. Yes, I do believe that the system will not send power to the switches, including the background lights, until you flash the computer using your Taser, or take it to a dealer to have service do the flash. Just FYI, I had huge issues with that orange line connecter that was added in the passenger's kick panel, as have many other. I wound up not using it and physically connecting the wires which resolved all my issues. If you see start/stop or door warning issues after you flash the computer, this could be your culprit. Best luck!
already soldered that bugger. I read all the issues. Now I just have to wait until tomorrow. Thank you
@@4LowRocks
@@ikentrouble Keeping my fingers cross that it'll all suddenly come alive once you activate it with the Taser. One more thing you might check - the main inline fuse just after the battery connection - a few of us had bad fuses there.
OK, the switches are lit up like they should. I hooked up one of my lights and turned the switch on and the light did not come on. I started up the Jeep and still no light. I'll keep working on it. At least I'm making some progress. @@4LowRocks
@@ikentrouble Did you go into the UConnect configuration and enable the individual switches? You need to tell each one how it operates. See my video on my off road lights installation -- the configuration is in that video.
What’s the cost of this kit through mopar?
Brad, allmoparparts.com currently lists it for $325.96 and it is on backorder. There are other outlets that also sell the kit. Thanks for watching.
@@4LowRocks is that installed lol nice video I think I can handle it... thanks
@@04flamedyfz1 no, that price is just for the parts. I don't know what a dealer would charge - probably varies greatly depending on local labor rates. Installation was tough but not prohibitively difficult. Good luck!
Is it the same install on a 2020 Gladiator?
Gary, thanks for watching. I'm really sorry I can't help you on that as I'm not familiar with the Gladiator. I did find some help on Quadratec's site, so maybe they have something there. I would hope they've improved the installation! Good luck.
Where do you hook your stuff up to. To use switches
The four colored leads that I showed under the hood near the battery and under the passenger side kick panel are used to power accessories. You’ll also need to provide a ground for each connection. I’ll show this in a coming video. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this vid. It was super helpful in doing this install myself. I had a few issues that thought could be better explained, but overall pretty darn good. Once I buttoned everything up and restarted the car, I notice that ESS is no longer available. I'm wondering if this is because I haven't tazer'd the U-Connect to recognize the AUX switches yet (tazer is on order)? Or did I screw something up in the process? Thanks in advance for any help...
I had that issue as well - I could not get those two orange wires in that new connector under the passenger side kick panel to reliably connect. I wound up removing that connector and soldering and shrink wrapping the connection. I don’t think activating the harness via the Taser will resolve that issue. Good luck!
That saved me a ton of headache. I verified that it was the two orange wire connector. I had futzed with that thing for an hour during the initial install because it isn't obvious that you've pushed the pins in far enough. I get that the waterproof connector is designed for those times that you've got water in the interior, but it seems overdesigned. I like your solution - simple. Thanks!
Thanks! Agreed - that connector could have been much better designed!
Crap! Tazer came in, installed and programmed uconnect for aux switches, no problem. Lights on switches not working however. I found the 5A fuse on the main 12V connector was blown. Unfortunately, replacing that fuse didn't fix the problem. New fuse did not blow, but I wonder, was other damage done? Any ideas?
@@ryanburd666 Thanks for watching! I had similar problems; the 5A fuse was blown, replacing it didn't help. I found the two orange wires in the passenger side kick panel weren't making good connection in that new connector. I would up removing that new connector, using electrical tape to hold the two wires together, and things started to work. I then soldered them together and sealed the connection in shrink tubing. Hope this helps!
Video omits the hardest freaking part. How the hell do you depin that orange wire???? I have a professional depin set. Doesn't do shit. HOW.....
Everyone's video on this install omits that part! Yeah, it took me a few days to get through that ordeal, to be honest. Depinnning the orange wire wasn't that big of a deal for me - I used a good set of pin tools to push it out, but I absolutely could not get it to connect in the replacement connector. Jeep threw all kinds of codes. I eventually threw the new connector away and wired the two connections directly together in a permanent manner (don't see the need to remove it anyway). Hope you have better luck with it.
Good lord. Getting this wire threw the grommet is an act of god.
It is! I used a heavy coat hanger cut with snips so it was relatively sharp. Then make sure to tape it all up well and grease it before pulling it back through. Good luck!
4LowRocks finally got it. I pulled some Ethernet cable through with the hanger. Then attached Ethernet the aux wiring. It worked.
Glad to hear success stories!
@@4LowRocks Welp....I damanged that orange wiring try to get it out of the harness....car won't start now...I guess take to the dealer and see if they can repair the cable?
Patrick you can buy some pin extractors on Amazon or at an auto parts store. You should be able to push that pin out of the connecter and solder it back together.
Might as well put a new engine at the same time. Lol.
Right?
Excellent! But your motor is all dusty and needs washed down with soap and water...
Thanks for watching!!