2018-2020 Jeep Wrangler JL Gains More Accessory Options with a Mopar Auxiliary Switch System Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มี.ค. 2018
- Matt shows you how to install a Mopar Auxiliary Switch System on your 2018-2020 Sport, Sport S or Sahara Jeep JL Wrangler.
Purchase Product Here:
www.cjponyparts.com/mopar-aux...
Looking to add new electrical accessories to your 2018 Sport, Sport S or Sahara Jeep JL Wrangler? Mopar's switch bank allows you to connect up to 4-accessories to the power distribution center.
Keeping a factory look, this direct bolt-on kit matches the rest of your JL perfectly.
Included in this kit is everything you'll need to get the job done:
- Black Switch Bank Trim
- Switches
- Power Distribution Center
- Bracket
- Wiring Harness
- Cubby Bin
- Tie Straps
- Splice Kit
Check out more Wrangler Console Area Accessory parts from CJ's here:
www.cjponyparts.com/wrangler-...
Check out more Mopar parts from CJ's here:
www.cjponyparts.com/mopar/c/8...
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Seeing this makes me appreciate that I ordered a JL with the factory installed aux switches.
Good job on that one
Yeah no kidding wow
I love the details of this video! Five-Stars for the instructional value! One-Star to MOPAR for NOT making these connections plug-and-play !!!! I've been at this for at least five hours now, and I'm still not done! (will sleep and try to finish tomorrow)
Thanks for the video. It was an unbelievable help. I want to share a few things that gave me trouble and how I overcame them. Hopefully this will help others out a bit.
1 - I had a hard time getting seeing where to put the cable thru the firewall. I ended up taking the wheel off. This allowed me to open up the plastic from the wheel well quite a bit more and get my hand up there. After I pulled the wires thru I found that I was at least 6 inches short on the wires for the back of the Aux switch. After swearing the company for having short wires I did some trouble shooting. I pulled back the wheel well plastic (even more this time) and saw that I had routed the wires around another wire bundle (remember I didn't originally have a good view of the fire wall grommet). I pulled them all back out and re-routed. Fixed the issue. This last time I pulled back the plastic I had a great view of the entire area from lying down on my back on the garage floor. On a side note, it may be a preference, I simply pushed the hangar thru from the out side (engine) to the inside and attached the wires and continued to pull them thru. I did not need to pull a wire back thru and attach it to the wire bundle. I put a good amount of electrical tape on the length of the bundle to keep all the wires together (ie the orange and then AUX power wires) when going thru the fire wall. I used a sewing thread cutter tool to remove the tape once the lines were thru. That way i didn't have to worry about cutting the wire when removing the tape (it was hard to see where to pull off from my wrapping - perhaps operator error) www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=b2nTGp80&id=B721E4B34FA28428C8BD9E8734106F406738566B&thid=OIP.b2nTGp802-J2vtL78eYrVwHaGz&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fi.ebayimg.com%2fimages%2fi%2f121440924256-0-1%2fs-l1000.jpg&exph=526&expw=573&q=sewing+thread+cutter+tool&simid=608025475385722556&selectedIndex=1&ajaxhist=0
2 - I had a hard time removing the orange wire from the bundle. I really had to push hard. I was a bit concerned that I would break it. Also I had a difficult time getting the new wire into the OEM connector. I ended up raising up the black connector wire guide an inch or so. In the video he said to raise it a little bit. I found that raising it a lot (~ 1 inch) provided a lot of visibility. I was able to stick the new wire through the black guide and then then push it into the connector with a needle nose pliers and then a screw driver.
3 - I couldn't get the orange wires to seat properly into the supplied 2 pin connector. After spending a bunch of time on it I ended up not using the connector. I just inserted the pin side into the female side (the one that came out of the OEM connector) and secured it with a piece of shrink wrap.
One note - if you have the 4 cylinder turbo, you should have a 48 V battery. I believe the ground to this is in back of the 2 grounds in the video (with the 10 and 13 mm nuts) Be sure to remove this piece from the ground (body) and isolate it before you start working.
As with most things I think I could to this job in 1/3rd the time on a second try. Hope this helps others.
I did that and haven't installed any accessories yet. It was flashed. With your install, do the aux lights on the new dash you installed have little orange lights when you push the button(s)? Mine don't and I'm hoping they're just not "hot" yet because nothing's installed on the aux switches yet...your experience, sir???
Jeep JL Wrangler Aux Switch kit install - Caution Warning Please read! Ok you have watched the install videos from Extreme Terrain (note that Meriden does note do this video, she probably said “no thanks”) & Quadratec... maybe read the instructions that came with the kit, but unless you know your Jeep inside and out and have worked with pin connector wiring harnesses you are about to go on a three hour cruise to Gilligan’s Island. I’m not suggesting you don’t try it, just giving you a heads up. Hear are “some” items not mentioned or clarified in the instructions/videos:
Be careful where you run the cables on the harness that pass through the firewall into the cab! Pick the shortest path or you will not have enough wire to reach the aux switches.
Be brave and remove the fender flair.... it will make life easier than just pulling back the fender lining... but buy a couple spare clips in case you break one. There are pretty good videos on removing the fender flare. Do not expect to see the exact same number of bolts. There will be at least 4 10mm maybe 5 or some 8mm bolts. Trust me it will save some frustration when you work on passing the wiring harness through grommet (that pain in-the behind double rubber source of grief) in the firewall.
There is no existing hole in the grommet that you can slip any kind of fish or coat hanger through. You either go between it and firewall (icky as it does not seal well) or pierce/cut the grommet. My option was to cut a clean X in the exterior side of the grommet and pass a stiff sharp object through to pierce the other side (my old antenna with the ball tip cut off worked). Then you should be able the run a coat hanger through to the engine side.
Before you attempt to pull that mob of wires back through the grommet tape it up tight and as smooth as possible. Smear some lubricant on the wires (Vaseline worked). It’s a feel thing. Watch the angle of the wire coming through the firewall and try to match it as much as possible inside when you pull. Caution.. you have to pull enough of the harness through so that the pins that connect to the aux switches will reach to the center consul.
Go online and order de-pinning tools. They will cost you under $10. If you do not have body panel tools there are packages with both for about $30 or less. You will have to play around with the de-pinning tools to find the one that works. Look for one that has a single blade that gradually gets wider. Some people can make a screw driver do anything with practice...
Inside when you are removing panels and door connections... just remove the door retaining hook... it’s going to be in the way. Be careful when you attempt to detach the grey female connector from the side wall. Mine took a lot off fussing to get off.
Before you insert the new pin from the harness back into the connector look at the pin and harness. There is a bump on one side of the pin and a corresponding gap in the whole on the connector... line them up.
Stop. You have pulled out the glove and are about to remove part of the dash. First make sure you have the body panel tools and a 5.5mm socket; not a 5mm or 6mm or 1/4 inch, you need a 5.5mm socket. Most generic socket sets do not have that size. Also this is a good time to pay attention to the printed instructions that came with the kit. It provides guidance on where to run the wires through behind the glove box and where to use the foam tape.
When you screw in the switch put the pocket in first, then switch.
Before you reinstall the lower panel portion of the dash look for a tab on its left side (closest to steering wheel). Slide it in first then clip in the dash.
Time to button things up... first go out and get some longer zip ties for inside the engine compartment. The 10” ones that come with the kit are too short. Also, remove the top engine cover. It will make life easier as you fight to zip tie the harness to the plastic maze in the back. Note the videos never show this step. Fishing the zip ties around the plastic housing is difficult.
I hope this saves you from an extended “3-hour cruise”!
Not sure if you are still active on here but I wanted to say thanks! You helped a lot. If you are still on here I have a question. When I went through the fire wall i was actually able to get it through the same hole as the existing wires on the first gasket. The other one I poked a hole in. Do you see any issues with the existing wires and the auxiliary wires being that close to each other? I was very careful not to cut the existing wires or anything. I guess I am just concerned that the auxiliary wires could get too hot or something and mess everything up. Probably just a thing I made up in my head. If those wires are hot enough to mess anything up, I would have bigger problems anyway.
Very well done video. Instructions were clear and concise with no steps omitted or overly simplified.
OEM connectors and wiring is so satisfying.
no doubt
So glad my JLUR had this done at the factory. Great vid but me doing that would be awful.
Excellent demonstration!! Clear, concise, complete. I was able to do it with no issues whatsoever. I did, however, do the installation without taking the fender liner off. Did not cut rivets and was still able to meet that firewall. Thank you for these excellent "instructions" that anyone can follow.
How did you avoid removing the rivets? Did you just fish your hand behind it blindly?
Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Great Video!! Ended up taking my switches to the dealership and was explaining to them how to install and approx. time......LOL
You guys are officially the best for showing us how to do this thank you.
Thanks for watching Chris!
Excellent! I would have never attempted to install this option without this video. Mopar should be paying him! There is only one section that is still a little gray where he went a little fast but when I get my new switch assembly I will follow along with the video and walk through it with the instructions 10X
Thanks for the video, great help. Took me 3 hours total. Would have been less if it wasnt for the orange wire giving me trouble. When i plugged everything back in my forward and reverse camera were blue and didnt have any signal, before i could have a chance to look at what the problem was, it came back on its own. I found it easier to poke my coat hanger from the inside of the cab to the outside. Never had much hand room on the outside. I used chainwax to lube my wires, worked great and not too messy when it dries
Now that I have gotten the install completed, I want to echo the comment about making sure you understand Delphi style connectors before embarking on this particular quest. I struggled with the many flavors of brown + stripe wires, and wired my connector incorrectly. I managed to booger it up taking it apart. Luckily, there was already an identical, pre-wired connector as part of the factory wiring harness, just stuck on a tab on the back of the cubby. I cut that off and wired it into my harness. Two blown 5A fuses and some struggle with the orange wire later, I finally got these switches working. This project was awful, but I feel satisfied that I rose to a real challenge, and emerged victorious. (I used a Tazer JL mini to turn the switches on. It worked fine. I may get a dealership to add the code to my VIN at a later date, depending on how much they want to charge for what I can already do "unofficially" with the Tazer.
Awesome, very detailed video.
Thank you your video put together and makes things much clearer I’m an old guy and I hate the pictorials in eight different languages that’s I had to pull the battery tray to get access to the nipple at the top of the harness
defiantly recommend rotating that negative eyelet on the frame to aim down not up to prevent stress on the wire.
Thank you. Great information.
Great video!
Thanks!
Just finished the install. All works OK. I would just add that with the Tazer device from Zautomotive, you save a trip to the dealership. You can activate AUX ON in RADIO/OTHER menu. (Vehicle in RUN position but w/o starting it). Thanks again.
Verry great explanation.. Thank you very much
IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP: Great job of pointing out the proper way to "remove the ground" at ~3:10 in the video. This removes "both" grounds at the bulkhead.
It is important to note that this technique is required because there are TWO batteries in the Jeep JL. The main battery is visible. The auxiliary battery, if installed, is below the fuse box and is not visible. Because of the way the terminal connector is configured at the battery, when you disconnect the negative terminal "at the battery" there is still a circuit.
The main ground and aux ground are connected to a flex connector that connects to the main battery terminal. When the flex connector is disconnected, the aux ground is still effectively live. This means that juice has a return that keeps the vehicle's electrical systems live with a disconnected negative terminal.
The "bulkhead" ground shown in this video removes both grounds. Alternatively, you can disconnect the main flex connector at the main battery terminal and then disconnect the aux connection from the free-floating flex connector. The proof of success is that there is no lighting, dash, etc. when you get into the vehicle.
This is a great video. Even if you are not installing the Aux switch kit, it shows how to pop open all sorts of panels and connectors. Also shows how to get through the firewall with a wire. One think I’d take issue with is the removing of the inner fender and breaking the plastic rivets. I think its easier to just remove the entire fender to get access. There is a video here somewhere showing how easy it is to pull the entire fender.
I like how you keep saying it looks like a factory option, when it is a factory option
Patrick Rayvon Came to the comments for the same thing lmao. I’m like of course it looks factory haha!
Thanks for this video, I would not have been able to do the install myself without it!
Great video. Certainly helped me with this install. One comment I would make to anyone considering doing this themselves: 1) route the wire on the clothes hanger from INSIDE the cabin to the engine compartment - not the other way around and 2) get someone to help you as the video points out. The working space in the engine bay is too small to find enough leverage unless you have files down the clothes hanger to a sharp point. if you have even normal man-sized hands, you will find the space is just too tight. The grommet is not going to just give. It took me over an hour to finally get the wire assembly through the firewall. Otherwise this video is bang on.
and be VERY CAREFUL punching through the grommet! I wound up nicking what turned out to be the TCM bus wire. It shorted out and I had to get my Jeep towed and the TCM bus replaced/spliced.
Did you have to bring it to the dealership after?
I pulled the battery tray maybe I didn’t need to but I didn’t want to cut the rubber at the firewall I put it through the nipple
Love the vids, hate the music.
Posting this so it's at the top of the video. I just went through this install recently. IF YOU GET THE EES Error "Service Start/Stop System" and your AUX buttons don't work (after flash from dealer or turned on with Tazer) it's very very likely your problem is with the Orange wire that you take out of Connector number X302 (Circuit D401) pin 13. The orange wire that is pulled from this wiring harness goes between the LIN BUS CBC 1 and Common for the EES system in the electrical diagram. The provided 2 pin molex connector (w/ blank insert) does not seat very well even if done correctly. Myself and others in this comment seciton have Soldered the orange wire pulled from the harness to the single orange wire provided in the bundle and elected not to use the connector. This solved our issue with the EES error and the Aux buttons not working correctly. The connector we bypassed begins at 14:30 in the video.
You don’t even show it installed at the end, wth?
awesome vid
Thanks!
Just a couple hours later and your almost done, but wait there is more, take it to the dealer to flash it. Also consider that is just 4 switches at a premium price, labor and flashing not included
On my first attempt, I dislodged the entire grommet from the firewall. When I finally got it back in place, it took another four hours before I finally got the wires through. There is an inner and and outer side to the grommet, and I found it very hard to get through both of them in a straight line. I poked through the big wiring trunk multiple times. I ended up making a heavier duty poker out of a piece of 1/8" brass rod, and I was finally able to exercise some control over where the point emerged on the other side. Then I chased it with a coat hanger, and by that point the coat hanger was so short I ended up using that to pull a rope through. Complete pain in the ass. If I had this to do over again, I would probably just suck it up and remove the power distribution box and auxiliary battery, so I could see and feel what the hell I was doing more easily.
I recommend using electrical tape in a color other than black. When I unwrapped the greasy, sticky, gooey mess on the inside, I found it quite difficult to tell my black tape from their black tape. How far back do I have to unwrap this? Hmmm. Too far. I discovered that lacquer thinner does a great job of cleaning the adhesive schmutz off all the pins. If I had continued as they were, they probably wouldn't have made good contact. I also discovered that lacquer thinner eats the lettering right off the AUX 1-4 labels.
I made it far enough to get the kick panel off. I broke one of the tabs on the kick panel. I watched this as well as several other videos, and read the instructions, but I still didn't understand how to get the door connector unhooked until I almost broke it. There's like a sliding track deal push pinned into the body, and it just slides off that. I did not understand this until much too late to avoid ensuring that this connector will never hang straight in the future.
That's where I wrapped up after day two. This project is a royal bitch, but I'm saving a fortune in labor, and I like how clean this solution is. If I had known this option existed, I would have bought a Jeep that had it installed from the factory. Alas.
When installing into the dash panel, the new smaller cubby should be placed first and then the aux switches. Opposite of what they do at 17:17. The faces don’t sit flush otherwise.
There is a lot of great detail in here that isn’t in other install videos.
I’m having trouble removing the #13 pin. It wont push out and it looks like i might have even cut or bent the end while pushing.
Can someone please explain it to me?
thank you.
Hello Matt! Can u please share a part number or name for the metal pin you pull out from the jeep harness and connect the pin from the auxiliary switch. The orange wire pin. Please
Would LOVE to see how to actually hook accessories up to the switches....
It is the positive, so whatever you are installing forget wiring harness with fuse, each of these 4 are fused. Just hook positive to aux wire and neg to ground on body or battery, that’s it.
Awesome instructions very well done, how long does it take to install in average if I go to a dealership?
I would like to see an aftermarket version with 6 or 8 switches. And the ability to label them yourself.
Why would the start stop give me an error light after installing the auxiliary switches in?
While going through firewall grommet did you go via center or around the grommet? Looks impossible going into the center. Thanks.
There is a harness to wire internal accessories to the switches when the auxiliary switches are installed from the factory. I didn't see this harness in this video. Is this not available when installed after the fact?
After installing this, Would you be able to access the settings of the new switches via the infotainment system?
So what does that orange wire in the bulkhead do?
Thanks for the video, what if your Jeep already has the 7pin connector behind the cubby? Not able to get the 7pin from the kit working, but the existing plug that was behind the console lights up the switches and is able to be controlled by uConnect. My jeep is a 2021 JLUR. Not finding any info on this situation.
Will these instructions also pertain to the Rubicon JL Wrangler?
At 14:00 that wire did not come out. Can you explain a little bit more how to get the wire out of that housing?
What's the difference between 22 Sahara and the Sahara 4xe install?
Do you know if the 240 amp alternator Upgrade is a direct fit?
Does a basic sport JL have the spare wires in the engine bay and behind the glove box or just the rubicon and Sahara??
Question would this be the same on a 2020 JT?
Outstanding but I wish y'all were located in California so I could pay you to do this job for me. lol
Instead of cutting the rivets for the fender liner, wouldn't it just be easier to pop a pushpin, remove 4 bolts, and take off the entire fender?
theres about 5 screws in the inner fender. if you remove those screws the whole fender an inner fender can come out in one piece without breaking any clips.
Im install and reflash the compute , in the dealer center but not work 😒😒😒
is there a model for the JL rubicon?
Great video, very helpful when adding my Mopar Aux Switches to JT. Any idea which wire colors match to which circuit for the under hood switch side? need to patch in a pressure switch to the switch circuit from under the hood.
Hi, I'm looking to do the same if you already let me know how it turn out I am planning on doing it for my JT as well. I'm looking all over for aux button that is close to the OEM look but has the left cubby. but so far, I've only come across this video and the LASFIT one.
Would this be the same for the Gladiator?
Does anyone know if this can work on a JT, 2023? if so please let me know thank you.
Anyone else have a loss communication with switch bank module? Have that code after installing and auxiliary won’t turn on
Hey Guys....great Video....did the install over the weekend (JLU Rubicon)...seemed to go together well. I followed the video to a T ,seemed too easy...haven't gone to the dealership yet to flash it , so I'm assuming that's why nothing lights up. But the bigger issue I had was now the "SWAY BAR!" dash light has come on and wont go off no matter what I do. Is there any connection to the pins I moved and that? Its a separate connector for the Sway bar button etc....wondering what I'm dealing with before I bring it in.
Cutterwolf hello, were you able to fix the issue? I ordered the kit and I’m feeling a little hesitant in doing the work. Thanks
Will this work on a Willys 2021 Wrangler
A little rough with a new $50K+ ride. I’ll order as a factory option...then it will most definitely look factory.
Watch this video from about frame 11:42. Shows you how to remove the passenger-side kick panel.
I wish there was a bit more detail on the depin of orange connector. You don’t go into the connector, rather above it with a small flat depin tool while pushing connector in. Then pull connector out! That was almost as bad a routing through the firewall. Super pita! Ha ha!
I have a question i have a JL Rubicon and i have the Sway bar button and im able to lock my front and rear diff. So i would only have to replace that one side?
Yes, you will have a cpl extra cubbies since you don’t need either
Hey does the white filler pieces come with the kit? or did you buy them separately? and if they aren't included are they mandatory to get the aux buttons to work properly? great video btw!
If you're talking about the white filler pieces for the electrical connections, yes they come with the kit!
awesome thanks! definitely buying!
Can you access the "nipple" on the firewall harness boot through the fender this way, or do you have to remove the PDC and tray? I'd rather use the nipple than pierce through the boot..
Answering this myself ...no, you cannot.
This is a great video, but they don’t express enough of what a pain it is to get the wires through the rubber grommet. Huge pain!
No way I am doing this myself. Ugh
Can yall make a video of removing the 7" UConnect 4 radio? I'd like to see what the connections are on the back of the radio to see if it's upgradeable. I currently have the 5" UConnect 3 system in my JL and want to upgrade to the 7" radio for the CarPlay/Android Auto features. If the connections are the same and can plug and play, that would be awesome!
I'm trying to do the same thing! Have you found the correct part number for the 7"? I found these two and can't tell the difference.
mopar.chromedata.com/NextGen/C1111#/productDetails/11426580/282260270
mopar.chromedata.com/NextGen/C1111#/productDetails/11426581/282259450
jtslim32 from what I’ve been told, part #68297546ae is for vehicles equipped with Sat Radio. The other part number is for vehicles without sat radio from the factory. Adding the sat radio version in a vehicle that doesn’t currently have sat radio will not add that functionality, you’ll have to install the sat radio antenna, etc.
Gotcha, that's the information I've received as well. Have you been able to find a image of the back of the UC4? This video shows the back of the UC3, if you haven't already taken yours out. th-cam.com/video/h-MIWLHMxVo/w-d-xo.html&list=PLamJvO-859YAn-ej-ht7vNwtsZkHhSSWT&index=9
jtslim32 yes, from what I’ve seen on the other vehicles, the connections look the same, but this is from videos that provided angled views so it’s hard to say it’s a 100% match, but it looked the same.
Have you decided if you're going to pull the trigger and order the 7"?
You never showed the final installed look on the inside!!
While this is an excellent and useful video I have concern over the direct tapping of the main battery's positive post for Aux switch power as shown in this video, over, instead, as at least per the version i have of the instruction manual for this kit's guidance, to rather tap post N1 on the Power Distribution Center (PDC). For dual battery JLs, tapping the main battery risks taxing it of cranking power by appliances that are connected to the Aux switches and that remain energized during ESS events. N1 is energized by both batteries at all times but ESS events, where it is solely energized, by design, by the Aux battery only. Voltage drops to this Aux battery during ESS events, regardless of cause (headlights, Aux switch appliances, etc) properly cause such JLs to prematurely end ESS events and re-crank on the spared main battery, getting the alternator to charge the Aux battery up again.
13:51 The orange wire he pulled out, what is the wire for?
I hear it's the can bus, basically the network/CAT5e wire for the Jeeps computer system.
Has anyone finished this? Once I did and had it flashed, the Jeep mechanic admitted to not doing one before and wasn't sure if the "aux" orange lights on the dash would light up when pressed (until I installed something). Basically, it all looks great, but I haven't installed anything on the aux switches yet. Lights don't light up. I'm trying to find out if this is normal. Experience??
Mine don't light up...they're supposed to. Did you get yours fixed? What was wrong?
@@ec-uploads I did get it fixed. Turned out that one of the fuses in the aux wires was blown during install.
What is different about this install on a Rubicon?
The Rubicon Aux switch kit is a different part. The left side of the panel is your locker/swaybar switches. Other than that, this should be the same install.
As @jondrew55 noted there are the locker and sway bar switches for the Rubi. The factory option also has a battery and ignition wire in the inside harness as well. So a total of 6 wires with power. The batt and ignition switch are not controlled by the AUX buttons but are hot from the battery, and hot when the ignition is on. Great for CB or trail cam you want to be powered when the ignition is on.
Awesome video but it is so complicated.
399$ dollars later, and I little bit of your soul, along with watching this video, and your done.. hope it works after shipping and handling, and a few days of waiting.. if it was 299 I Would buy, but man, so many cheaper options
i understand
Hey Matt,
After your install was complete, did you have a stop start message. When we installed our switch kit we experienced the same spark when reattaching the battery and ground that you did in the video. If so, how did you repair the stop start malfunction.
Nykedia Mitchell we you able to solve the issue? I ordered the kit and I’m hesitant about doing it my self. Thank you
jcarpio711 we ended up taking the Jeep to the dealer. They had it for 10 days trying to figure out the problem. The JL has a small auxiliary battery below the fuse box. We didn’t disconnect it so it turns out we blew that battery. The small battery is what gives the car power during a Stop Start event. If u notice during the time when the install is complete and he reconnects the battery there is a spark, the dealer believes. That’s when the battery was damaged.
Watch Jeep informants channel about the start stop battery. If it was bad it wouldn’t start. Just installed my switches, had a small spark when I was taking the grounds off (3). Finished the installation and same fault message “start stop feature unavailable but the Jeep starts and runs. I’ll post what I find out to compare solutions.
Rob Brown my Jeep started as well. When I got it to the dealer they said the battery wasn’t receiving adequate power. The issue was covered by the warranty but it just goes to show, these guys don’t tell you the whole story and still haven’t responded to my question about it.
Nykedia Mitchell I’m taking mine in this weekend to get the switches programmed, we’ll see if they cover the auto start fix as well under warranty. Dealers saying about $112 to program the aux switches for anyone wondering.
Well you made up my mind. I will NOT be getting this for mine.
You guys need to invest in some lighting. I’ve watched a couple of your install vids now and you point things out in the install and we can’t see anything but blackness.
Great video tutorial. However please turn off that music. It is not needed.
Damn that’s more work than I would’ve thought. Yikes
What a PITA.. . I'd be better off having the dealer install this. When I factor in my time and their knowledge/tools, it makes sense.
The best advice I can give is throw away those Mopar wire connectors. They are garbage. There’s no way you can test continuity through it. I could not get mine to connect properly. I’d say just butt splice it and shrink tube it.
I would advise anyone attempting this to watch a video on disconnecting the auxiliary battery as well. If you don't you could run into issues after install (i.e. stop/start battery blown, sensors fried, etc...) or just take it to a dealer and pay for the 2 hours or labor.
Yeah my dealer warned 5hrs at $150 an hour..I guess it’s subjective based on where you live
This video shows both batteries being disconnected. They show two ground connections. One from the main battery, the other from the Aux battery
So much crap on jeeps now hell my 2003 Rubicon came factor with no AC or ABS
Yea, that's shitty for you, too bad.
After installing this, Would you be able to access the settings of the new switches via the infotainment system?