Good Evening Joe 😇👍👌 Outstanding boiling machine and very well made and explained my friend 👌🧐👍 Thank you very kindly for your Informative video and I can't wait to see part 2 Cheers 👍🧐👌🍻
Part 2 coming tomorrow! I have 2 other videos to edit after that. Now that the crazy projects of the pool and boiler are finished, I'll have time to get back to life. Lol! Thanks!
Thanks! I've split some of the logs, but I realize it was not needed!!! Moreover, the logs being longer, it's quicker to cord and less handling of course. So you are absolutely right, one great benefit is time saving. Thanks!
Hey Joe, nice boiler, I was watching another channel with a wood boiler, the user said that they had issues with creosote building up on the loading door, the fix was simple, lay the logs closer to the door for max heat to burn off the creosote when the boiler is calling for a heat cycle.
There is a blower in the front and back. In the front, it's right below the door. So I think this is where the creosote get burnt. Because when I refill the machine, I can clearly see the creosote scales fell on the door sill, detaching from the door. I push them in and voilà! problem solved. Thanks!
That is right, it's not the usual boiler. Rather simple design and most likely not that efficient either. But it's convenient for autonomy. How much autonomy you get from yours? Thanks Glen!
@@FromSteelToWood By autonomy do you mean how long it will run without re-filling? My normal practice is to fill twice per day. The longest I can go without filling is about 36 hours.
@@timberterra That is what I meant. So that is nice you can extend that up to 36 hours. I do fill mine once a day, in the evening during weekdays. During the weekend, I may stop by before I go work into the garage. So I fill it twice then.
Hey Joe! That is such a well designed and built wood boiler! I can see why an engineer like you would appreciate it. Looks like you made and excellent choice. Thanks for sharing!
Salut Joe!! This is a major heating machine eh!! A big project to get it all installed and plumbed up but it sure does look well built and should last a good long while. Looking forward to part 2!! A la prochaine!!!
Thanks Mike! This is a good amount of work to install this machine. But well rewarding. That would be nice in your case, as you got plenty of fallen firs that can fit right into that boiler! Thanks Again!
I do think the main brands are doing very well too! I think they got better sophistication, which I wish I had on the machine. But I wanted to buy a local product. Thanks!
Substantial heating plant you have there Joe. Good to see what you've done and the extras, that makes it work better for you. I'm waiting now to see the other 'end' of it inside the building.
Stay tuned tonight is part 2! I think the building and the fan as the best extras, because it makes this process of feeding the machine a real charm. Thanks!
Time to watch your videos! I have been running behind on your great videos. I have been too busy watching Super Daves snow-blowing videos lol. That is an interesting boiler. It has many good features designed into it. Not too mention it is made in Canada! I have an Empire 250 outdoor furnace that is over 20 years old. Unfortunately the company went bankrupt a few years back.I should do a video about. I like mine because of its simple design and operation. Mine is a natural draft design with no blowers. Just a damper on the door. My pumps are in my basement. They are great when you have lots of wood to cut. And a great way to get rid of junk wood. I dont think I would have one if I had to buy wood or live close to neighbors lol. In our area they passed a law saying you need 2 acres before you have one ( I think) Great video Take care
That sure is nice to burn odd pieces and less than perfect wood. Cut to longer length, its way less handling and much easier to cord. I like to feed the machine once a day. That is a time saver for me. Then heating the whole house, garages and the household hot water supply is great. Thanks!
That is a very well thought out design. I applaud the elimination or the lack thereof the electronic control boards that seem to be a plague to the American manufacturers that have them. This machine has the good old standard boiler controls that will remain reliable for decades. Is the aquastat that controls it is connected to the return water or the supply water..?? After your house and shed is up to temp, approximately what is the temp drop in the loop ? I'm sure the pipes are heavily insulated in the trench, but what is the temp drop in the supply pipe between the boiler and the air handler inlet... Sorry Joe for so many questions. I really love this thing.
The aquastat is located in a well inside the water jacket, in the upper part of it (12 in from the top). I have temperature gauges on the IN and OUT on the boiler. Then on the manifolds inside the house and garage. For the small loop going to the house (150' x 2 = 300ft), there is nothing I can really see in temperature drop, so to say, less than a degree, would that be the accuracy of the gauge too... For the long 350 (x2 = 700 feet) to the garage, I get 2-3°F difference. For this reason, I only run that loop pump when I am using the heat in the garage. So the reason I use glycol is good to -40°F. BTW, I have one aquastat to control the fan, thus the air admission. The other one is safety just in case the first one would fail.
Hello GP! I burn pretty much anything that is not sellable as firewood which can be pole wood (mainly ash, then birch and maple). Then a good amount of softwood. I have a lot of firs that went down because of winds. And they are not quite worth milling either. Thanks!
Pour your rear clean out concrete at and angle tapering in on both sides with a slot down the middle wide enough for a flat shovel and it will be so easy to clean. Old trick of dairy barn clean outs.
This looks like a great system, thanks for explaining it. We did look at options for an outside boiler many years ago but at the time they were not available in the UK. The concrete pad for the ash sounds like a good idea. Are you planning to board the sides of the building or leave it open? I am looking forward to part 2
I will add sides to the shed, as the winds are bringing a lot of snow on the wood. I'll put permanent siding on three sides. Then for the front, I'll use sliding doors. At least, this is the plan I have in mind for now! Thanks!
It last at least 24 hours. I could probably extend that to 36 hours on a regular basis. It's only a matter of routine, I feed the machine in the evening. Thanks!
Bonjour et merci! Je passe environ 30 cordes (équivalent à 30 cordes de 16 pouces). C'est environ les 4 rangées de 18 pieds de long, 3-4 pieds de large, 5 pieds de haut. Mais par contre, il faut savoir que je brûle du sec et du trempe. C'est aussi du petit rondin, allant de 2 pouces jusqu'à 5-6 pouces au plus. Et souvent du bois de 2e grade, pas très sain. Et puis une bonne partie de résineux au travers. Bref, de la scrappe! Sinon, si c'était du bois franc, sec, de bonne qualité, ce serait probablement environ 20 cordes. Si vous voulez m'écrire, je peux vous en parler plus sur mon installation. (joe.lesage@hotmail.com). Merci!
Salut Joe, beau video explicatif merci, jai aussi une sequoia E60 depuis 1 ans et presentement a construire labris pour la fournaise , je me demandais ces quoi le model de fan que tu a rajouter car je vais en installer un aussi car trop de boucane quand je ouvre la porte. Merci
Merci! J'ai acheté la fan sur Amazon. C'est une fan de la marque Vortex. Dans mon cas, j'ai acheté une VTX800 @ 300$. Mais en faisant à nouveau la recherche, j'ai vu qu'ils ont un modèle VBC800. Même CFM, mais à 189$. Je suis allé sur leur site web et je ne vois pas ce nouveau modèle. Je présume un peu plus bas de gamme ou moins bruyant. Si j'avais à recommencer, je prendrais la moins chère. Elle roule pas souvent, ni longtemps. Le lien pour la fan. www.amazon.ca/Vortex-Inline-Fan-VBC-VBC800/dp/B07RNN2YCM/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=Vortex+Powerfan&qid=1692533430&sr=8-18
Yes, it really took 350ft to get there! I have plenty of heat there. I can't really see the drop in temperature of the glycol if I compare the indicator on the boiler VS the indicator in the garage. I've got plenty of heat. The pex size is 32mm (outside diameter, odd size...). Which the actual inside diameter is 1.025 in. Compared to a so said 1in pex pipe that is actually closer to 0.865 inches inside diameter (actual measures I got). This was very costly insulated pipes to install... Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood I should have phrased my question better…do you get enough btus there? A good test would be to see a pump curve on that loop. Usually pumping that far with that size pipe will limit the amount of btus delivered. A lot of head pressure/ friction loss in that distance. Yes you can push 180* fluid there but if you’re only able to circulate 3-4 gpms theoretically you will be capable of 30-40k btus. Good rule of thumb is 10k btu per gallon with a 20* delta. In some situations as this I would recommend 2 tandem pumps or place one in the shop to relieve some the return loop head loss. Usually a loop that far would require at least 1.5”-2” tubing. Another thing is if you can’t keep the velocity high enough in the pipe, air can get trapped in high spots and cause reduced pumping. Hot water is worse due to it being much closer to phase separation (boiling) than ambient water.
@@garny3766 That is good information there! I like that! I've got a 20x20 heating coil , supposed to produce 160k BTU. Then my furnace is supposed to do 1380cfm at 0.2 wc (or 1060 at 0.8 wc). It was around 60°F in the garage when I tested the exit temperature at 130°F (55°C). I've found on the web that formula: BTU Output = Temperature Rise (∆ T) x CFM x 1.08. Given 1060 cfm and 70°F rise, that would be 80k BTU. So you are primarily right with that flow limitation. However, I've done an interesting test. I don't want to pump 24/7 glycol in that 350ft (x2) loop if I am not in the garage during the weekdays. So I've installed a Wifi outlet to remotely control the pump. So while standing in front of the furnace flow of hot air, I've stopped the pump. It took a good 10-15 seconds until I feel the air going gradually from hot to lukewarm. Same in reverse process. Going with your rule of thumb, I've got about 10°F difference between in and out. So I may get more than 4 gpm. But yet, not the best I could have with higher gpm. I've got another source on the web stating that I should have 161k btu to heat my 32x60 (12ft ceiling) garage, given I live in northern climate (similar to Minnesota). I had planned to install a second coil in my woodshop in the back. So far it's been working fine, the furnace does not work all the time. Thanks again for that valuable information!
@@FromSteelToWood interesting. That is a lot more than I was expecting. Is that .8” of pressure drop measured or a rating off the furnace? The best measurement would be with a pump curve. Install pressure gauge ports on both sides of the pump and chart on pump curve sheet. Are those grundfos 26-96 pumps? Be mindful of the extra head loss running to and thru another heat exchanger. A primary/secondary circuit could be plumbed to negate that.
@@garny3766 Hum... another interesting fact, the head loss while putting that in series. Especially hooking with a smaller unit that most likely restrict the flow to the bigger one. I had a temporary unit installed while (prior to in fact!) I was working on the furnace. So they were plumbed as parallel. While having the glycol to flow in both coils, I was loosing 12°F on the furnace (118°F/48°C). When I shut the valve off on the small unit, I went to 130°F... So I suspect the flow might be more important than I thought. I was curious about the pump, I put my boots and went to check. They are UPS26-99FC type.
Je me suis informer chez sequoia car le projet m'intéresse pour chez moi aussi.....mais je suis limité par la distance au batiment que je voudrais et je pense pas ca va etre possible :( Le representant etait super sympatique .
C'est aussi très cher le tuyau isolé à passer dans le sol. J'ai payé le mien 18$ du pied. (oui, j'en avais pour 9,000$ de tuyaux!) As-tu parlé à Alexandre?
@@FromSteelToWood Oui j'ai vu ca pour le tuyau.(Et c'est le calcul rapide j'ai fait selon les longueur que tu mentionne (😳) je sais pas son nom, mais il savait tres bien qui était "from steel to wood" héhé. Tu as beaucoup plsu de positif que moi pour avoir une chaudiere, donc je suis encore en réflexion. hate de voir ton prochain vidéo pour ton setup intérieur.
Very nice set up that should keep your house and garage warm and no mess in the house
Absolutely! And about anything can feed this machine too!
Good Evening Joe 😇👍👌 Outstanding boiling machine and very well made and explained my friend 👌🧐👍 Thank you very kindly for your Informative video and I can't wait to see part 2 Cheers 👍🧐👌🍻
Part 2 coming tomorrow! I have 2 other videos to edit after that. Now that the crazy projects of the pool and boiler are finished, I'll have time to get back to life. Lol! Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood YES YES YES 👍👍👌👌🤣🤣✨✨🚀🚀🍻🍻
That’s a nice set up you have Joe. No more having to split logs is a great timesaver. Looking forward to part two. Later.
Thanks! I've split some of the logs, but I realize it was not needed!!! Moreover, the logs being longer, it's quicker to cord and less handling of course. So you are absolutely right, one great benefit is time saving. Thanks!
That furnace is very well made and I`m sure you're proud of your installation Joe.... a very good system....CHEERS
Thanks Gator! There might be things I would do differently though. Thanks!
Very nice set up!
Merci for the tour!
😀
Hey Joe, nice boiler, I was watching another channel with a wood boiler, the user said that they had issues with creosote building up on the loading door, the fix was simple, lay the logs closer to the door for max heat to burn off the creosote when the boiler is calling for a heat cycle.
There is a blower in the front and back. In the front, it's right below the door. So I think this is where the creosote get burnt. Because when I refill the machine, I can clearly see the creosote scales fell on the door sill, detaching from the door. I push them in and voilà! problem solved. Thanks!
Thanks for the tour. Interesting design. Never seen one like that before.
That is right, it's not the usual boiler. Rather simple design and most likely not that efficient either. But it's convenient for autonomy. How much autonomy you get from yours? Thanks Glen!
@@FromSteelToWood By autonomy do you mean how long it will run without re-filling? My normal practice is to fill twice per day. The longest I can go without filling is about 36 hours.
@@timberterra That is what I meant. So that is nice you can extend that up to 36 hours. I do fill mine once a day, in the evening during weekdays. During the weekend, I may stop by before I go work into the garage. So I fill it twice then.
YES! The video we have been waiting for!
Stay tuned for part 2 tonight! Thanks!
Hey Joe! That is such a well designed and built wood boiler! I can see why an engineer like you would appreciate it. Looks like you made and excellent choice. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Martin! Being made locally was a good consideration too! Thanks!
Well made boiler and the size of it is really nice. Have a good week Joe! See ya!
Thanks John!
Salut Joe!! This is a major heating machine eh!! A big project to get it all installed and plumbed up but it sure does look well built and should last a good long while. Looking forward to part 2!! A la prochaine!!!
Thanks Mike! This is a good amount of work to install this machine. But well rewarding. That would be nice in your case, as you got plenty of fallen firs that can fit right into that boiler! Thanks Again!
@@FromSteelToWood For sure eh!! This will cut down on your splitting needs. Almost four foot rounds could go right in that firebox.
What a quality piece of equipment. That is so well made and well designed. That puts all of the ones that I have looked at to shame. Badly
I do think the main brands are doing very well too! I think they got better sophistication, which I wish I had on the machine. But I wanted to buy a local product. Thanks!
Very nice system and well thought out Joe, you must be very pleased with it.
That is nice feeding the machine only once a day, without the hassle of bringing firewood inside. Thanks!
Nice system Joe. Very well explained. Thanks.
Thanks!
très bien expliqué. Merci Joe
Merci Yves!
Excellent vidéo; félicitations pour ton achat ça semble bien adapté à tes besoins!
Oui, merci! C'est parfait pour notre usage!
Substantial heating plant you have there Joe. Good to see what you've done and the extras, that makes it work better for you.
I'm waiting now to see the other 'end' of it inside the building.
Stay tuned tonight is part 2! I think the building and the fan as the best extras, because it makes this process of feeding the machine a real charm. Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood Agreed, and I'll look forward to this then.
Time to watch your videos! I have been running behind on your great videos. I have been too busy watching Super Daves snow-blowing videos lol. That is an interesting boiler. It has many good features designed into it. Not too mention it is made in Canada! I have an Empire 250 outdoor furnace that is over 20 years old. Unfortunately the company went bankrupt a few years back.I should do a video about. I like mine because of its simple design and operation. Mine is a natural draft design with no blowers. Just a damper on the door. My pumps are in my basement. They are great when you have lots of wood to cut. And a great way to get rid of junk wood. I dont think I would have one if I had to buy wood or live close to neighbors lol. In our area they passed a law saying you need 2 acres before you have one ( I think) Great video Take care
That sure is nice to burn odd pieces and less than perfect wood. Cut to longer length, its way less handling and much easier to cord. I like to feed the machine once a day. That is a time saver for me. Then heating the whole house, garages and the household hot water supply is great. Thanks!
That is a very well thought out design. I applaud the elimination or the lack thereof the electronic control boards that seem to be a plague to the American manufacturers that have them. This machine has the good old standard boiler controls that will remain reliable for decades. Is the aquastat that controls it is connected to the return water or the supply water..?? After your house and shed is up to temp, approximately what is the temp drop in the loop ? I'm sure the pipes are heavily insulated in the trench, but what is the temp drop in the supply pipe between the boiler and the air handler inlet... Sorry Joe for so many questions. I really love this thing.
The aquastat is located in a well inside the water jacket, in the upper part of it (12 in from the top). I have temperature gauges on the IN and OUT on the boiler. Then on the manifolds inside the house and garage. For the small loop going to the house (150' x 2 = 300ft), there is nothing I can really see in temperature drop, so to say, less than a degree, would that be the accuracy of the gauge too... For the long 350 (x2 = 700 feet) to the garage, I get 2-3°F difference. For this reason, I only run that loop pump when I am using the heat in the garage. So the reason I use glycol is good to -40°F. BTW, I have one aquastat to control the fan, thus the air admission. The other one is safety just in case the first one would fail.
Thanks Joe, very nice wood fired boiler. Have you been getting any trees for firewood? I have to skid out a few but it's a muddy mess right now.
I've had two small day of logging up to now. It just came back to freezing temperature last weekend with a minimal coverage of snow. Thanks!
Good morning Joe! That is a well designed boiler - thanks for the tour. BTW - what kind of wood logs are you burning?
Hello GP! I burn pretty much anything that is not sellable as firewood which can be pole wood (mainly ash, then birch and maple). Then a good amount of softwood. I have a lot of firs that went down because of winds. And they are not quite worth milling either. Thanks!
Pour your rear clean out concrete at and angle tapering in on both sides with a slot down the middle wide enough for a flat shovel and it will be so easy to clean. Old trick of dairy barn clean outs.
Good idea! Thanks!
This looks like a great system, thanks for explaining it. We did look at options for an outside boiler many years ago but at the time they were not available in the UK. The concrete pad for the ash sounds like a good idea. Are you planning to board the sides of the building or leave it open? I am looking forward to part 2
I will add sides to the shed, as the winds are bringing a lot of snow on the wood. I'll put permanent siding on three sides. Then for the front, I'll use sliding doors. At least, this is the plan I have in mind for now! Thanks!
Question Joe? When you fill the fire box with wood, approximately how long does it last before you need to fill again?
It last at least 24 hours. I could probably extend that to 36 hours on a regular basis. It's only a matter of routine, I feed the machine in the evening. Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood , thanks Joe
tres bon video ! combien de corde passe tu par année environ dans la fournaise ? brule tu seulement du bois dure et sec ?
Bonjour et merci! Je passe environ 30 cordes (équivalent à 30 cordes de 16 pouces). C'est environ les 4 rangées de 18 pieds de long, 3-4 pieds de large, 5 pieds de haut. Mais par contre, il faut savoir que je brûle du sec et du trempe. C'est aussi du petit rondin, allant de 2 pouces jusqu'à 5-6 pouces au plus. Et souvent du bois de 2e grade, pas très sain. Et puis une bonne partie de résineux au travers. Bref, de la scrappe! Sinon, si c'était du bois franc, sec, de bonne qualité, ce serait probablement environ 20 cordes. Si vous voulez m'écrire, je peux vous en parler plus sur mon installation. (joe.lesage@hotmail.com). Merci!
Salut Joe, beau video explicatif merci, jai aussi une sequoia E60 depuis 1 ans et presentement a construire labris pour la fournaise , je me demandais ces quoi le model de fan que tu a rajouter car je vais en installer un aussi car trop de boucane quand je ouvre la porte. Merci
Merci! J'ai acheté la fan sur Amazon. C'est une fan de la marque Vortex. Dans mon cas, j'ai acheté une VTX800 @ 300$. Mais en faisant à nouveau la recherche, j'ai vu qu'ils ont un modèle VBC800. Même CFM, mais à 189$. Je suis allé sur leur site web et je ne vois pas ce nouveau modèle. Je présume un peu plus bas de gamme ou moins bruyant. Si j'avais à recommencer, je prendrais la moins chère. Elle roule pas souvent, ni longtemps. Le lien pour la fan.
www.amazon.ca/Vortex-Inline-Fan-VBC-VBC800/dp/B07RNN2YCM/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=Vortex+Powerfan&qid=1692533430&sr=8-18
@@FromSteelToWood merci beaucoup ces très apprécié
Joe did you say shop is 350’ away?? If so do you get enough heat there? What size is you pex pipe feeding the shop?
Yes, it really took 350ft to get there! I have plenty of heat there. I can't really see the drop in temperature of the glycol if I compare the indicator on the boiler VS the indicator in the garage. I've got plenty of heat. The pex size is 32mm (outside diameter, odd size...). Which the actual inside diameter is 1.025 in. Compared to a so said 1in pex pipe that is actually closer to 0.865 inches inside diameter (actual measures I got). This was very costly insulated pipes to install... Thanks!
@@FromSteelToWood I should have phrased my question better…do you get enough btus there? A good test would be to see a pump curve on that loop. Usually pumping that far with that size pipe will limit the amount of btus delivered. A lot of head pressure/ friction loss in that distance. Yes you can push 180* fluid there but if you’re only able to circulate 3-4 gpms theoretically you will be capable of 30-40k btus. Good rule of thumb is 10k btu per gallon with a 20* delta. In some situations as this I would recommend 2 tandem pumps or place one in the shop to relieve some the return loop head loss. Usually a loop that far would require at least 1.5”-2” tubing. Another thing is if you can’t keep the velocity high enough in the pipe, air can get trapped in high spots and cause reduced pumping. Hot water is worse due to it being much closer to phase separation (boiling) than ambient water.
@@garny3766 That is good information there! I like that! I've got a 20x20 heating coil , supposed to produce 160k BTU. Then my furnace is supposed to do 1380cfm at 0.2 wc (or 1060 at 0.8 wc). It was around 60°F in the garage when I tested the exit temperature at 130°F (55°C). I've found on the web that formula: BTU Output = Temperature Rise (∆ T) x CFM x 1.08. Given 1060 cfm and 70°F rise, that would be 80k BTU. So you are primarily right with that flow limitation. However, I've done an interesting test. I don't want to pump 24/7 glycol in that 350ft (x2) loop if I am not in the garage during the weekdays. So I've installed a Wifi outlet to remotely control the pump. So while standing in front of the furnace flow of hot air, I've stopped the pump. It took a good 10-15 seconds until I feel the air going gradually from hot to lukewarm. Same in reverse process. Going with your rule of thumb, I've got about 10°F difference between in and out. So I may get more than 4 gpm. But yet, not the best I could have with higher gpm. I've got another source on the web stating that I should have 161k btu to heat my 32x60 (12ft ceiling) garage, given I live in northern climate (similar to Minnesota). I had planned to install a second coil in my woodshop in the back. So far it's been working fine, the furnace does not work all the time. Thanks again for that valuable information!
@@FromSteelToWood interesting. That is a lot more than I was expecting. Is that .8” of pressure drop measured or a rating off the furnace? The best measurement would be with a pump curve. Install pressure gauge ports on both sides of the pump and chart on pump curve sheet. Are those grundfos 26-96 pumps? Be mindful of the extra head loss running to and thru another heat exchanger. A primary/secondary circuit could be plumbed to negate that.
@@garny3766 Hum... another interesting fact, the head loss while putting that in series. Especially hooking with a smaller unit that most likely restrict the flow to the bigger one. I had a temporary unit installed while (prior to in fact!) I was working on the furnace. So they were plumbed as parallel. While having the glycol to flow in both coils, I was loosing 12°F on the furnace (118°F/48°C). When I shut the valve off on the small unit, I went to 130°F... So I suspect the flow might be more important than I thought. I was curious about the pump, I put my boots and went to check. They are UPS26-99FC type.
Je me suis informer chez sequoia car le projet m'intéresse pour chez moi aussi.....mais je suis limité par la distance au batiment que je voudrais et je pense pas ca va etre possible :( Le representant etait super sympatique .
C'est aussi très cher le tuyau isolé à passer dans le sol. J'ai payé le mien 18$ du pied. (oui, j'en avais pour 9,000$ de tuyaux!) As-tu parlé à Alexandre?
@@FromSteelToWood Oui j'ai vu ca pour le tuyau.(Et c'est le calcul rapide j'ai fait selon les longueur que tu mentionne (😳) je sais pas son nom, mais il savait tres bien qui était "from steel to wood" héhé. Tu as beaucoup plsu de positif que moi pour avoir une chaudiere, donc je suis encore en réflexion. hate de voir ton prochain vidéo pour ton setup intérieur.
@@maxpat82 Si tu veux aller le voir, j'ai publié hier soir! C'était sûrement Alexandre.
@@FromSteelToWood J'ai vu juste apres avoir écrit le message ;)