Great video! Took time and elbow grease to get it up and running. Dont forget the labor that the Mrs put into it also. Thank you for your time of posting this. I have a Woodmaster, been running for 24 yrs now. Stainless steel inside.
On my 3rd season now, the thing was made in '08, if someone would have taken care of it and sealed it up I don't think it would have needed any work. So nice to have the house and barn (5k sqft total) nice and cozy without huge lp and electric bills.
Nice job. I heat my home, garage, shop and domestic hot water with a Mahoning Outdoor Boiler and have since 2006. The hidden culprit using these units is rust particles in the water. The best advice/suggestion I can offer is that you add "anti rust" additive to your boiler water. It prevents corrosion on the interior of the unit. You should add it every year to protect the inside steel from deteriorating. I usually add it at the start of each season, usually in October. I usually run my pumps in the summer and have a whole house water filter that I have hooked up in-line using "shark bite" double female fittings. I circulate the water through the rope style filter during the summer to remove any micro particles that may be in the water. When it's time to light it, I disconnect it out of the line and reinstall the Cooper pipe for the heating season. Mahoning Outdoor Furnace Co is located in Mahaffe, Pa and carrys the rust prohibitor that you just add to your boiler water. Judging on your gallonage your unit may require 3-4 quarts of the rust prohibitor. It works great as does filtering the water in the off season. That's the best advice I can provide. You did a great job resurrecting your unit but it has to be protected on the unseen, inside areas as well. Good luck and many years of operation ! You won't regret it.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and I appreciate your input. I did add 1.5 gallons of additive the first year, got it from alternative heating and supplies, protech300 is the stuff. I ran my pumps on and off throughout the summer and I have a mag filter on one of the loop on the back of the boiler. I cleaned out the filter last summer and it didn't look bad at all. If you have any ideas or requests for a video please let me know, I'd be happy to give it a go.
Thanks for watching and the comment, I really don't know how I would have afforded this setup if I hadn't done everything myself. I've got about 5K into the boiler and all the related plumbing, (pumps, fittings, underground line, plate exchangers etc.). Another 3k or so in the infloor of the barn. So 8K total, that isn't even the price of just a medium size boiler...
Definitely want to run an anti corrosion inhibitor in the water like chemworld 830. The collar is meant to go over top of a flashing. There are some maple syrup pan manufactures that make a center ridge flashing from stainless steel. Nice job on the patch, it looked awesome.
I bought a used central boiler for $2000 CAD. Using it first time this winter,already twice a water leak in the side wall of the firebox.. Paper thin,super hard to even weld a patch on(think popcan welding). This spring i will cut the water jacket away from the firebox and see if it's worth replacing the firebox with thicker steel. I agree that with some elbow grease you can save a ton of money.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, fortunately only around my chimney seemed really bad. It's sad to see how much of a throw away society we've become. My newest vehicle is twenty years old now...
Bro, rust is why I run gasoline. It's way cheaper than anti freeze! Haha. Seriously, did you consider using electrolysis to clean the inside of the water jacket?
Also, forgot to mention: suggest in the off season to pull your stack, cover the hole and tarp the top of the unit. This will be added insurance of no rain water getting in anywhere while the boiler isn't operating. Most of the rust issues on top of the boilers happen during the summer months when it's off line and not able to evaporate any moisture that may infiltrate the unit as it's not hot. Just a tip.......
Hi, great job. I should do something similar and I wanted to ask you a couple of things: does the steel have to be made with particular alloy elements to resist the flame (in my case the internal part was pierced) or is simple carbon steel sufficient? Furthermore, does the welding wire also require special requirements? Thanks in advance
Hi, I just used standard mild steel for the patch, and standard .030 mig wire. I also used 6013 and 7018 arc welding rods. As long as your boiler is not stainless steel than regular mild steel and welding filler should be fine.
@@twosawacres8096 Thank you for sharing this information with me, in the next few days I will evaluate whether to follow this path. Unfortunately I find myself working on the internal part and everything is more complicated. I will probably ask for the help of a professional welder as I only have an electrode welder (coated rods) and perhaps continuous wire welding could simplify the job.
@@andrea2921 I think what most people do for holes in the burn chamber is a patch. Just grind the area to clean metal several inches into good steel, then weld the patch over it. Trying to get a flush mounted patch inside would be more difficult. Best of luck to ya.
@@twosawacres8096 I made a cut with the grinding wheel and observed that the sheet metal is worn over a large surface area so putting a specific patch on the hole would not solve the problem except for a short time. If I can I'll replace the entire upper part otherwise I'll throw away the boiler.
Great video! Took time and elbow grease to get it up and running. Dont forget the labor that the Mrs put into it also. Thank you for your time of posting this. I have a Woodmaster, been running for 24 yrs now. Stainless steel inside.
On my 3rd season now, the thing was made in '08, if someone would have taken care of it and sealed it up I don't think it would have needed any work. So nice to have the house and barn (5k sqft total) nice and cozy without huge lp and electric bills.
great video and explaining things
Thanks, hopefully it helped.
Super awesome and helpful! Thanks for your time.
Glad it helps.
Nice job. I heat my home, garage, shop and domestic hot water with a Mahoning Outdoor Boiler and have since 2006. The hidden culprit using these units is rust particles in the water. The best advice/suggestion I can offer is that you add "anti rust" additive to your boiler water. It prevents corrosion on the interior of the unit. You should add it every year to protect the inside steel from deteriorating. I usually add it at the start of each season, usually in October. I usually run my pumps in the summer and have a whole house water filter that I have hooked up in-line using "shark bite" double female fittings. I circulate the water through the rope style filter during the summer to remove any micro particles that may be in the water. When it's time to light it, I disconnect it out of the line and reinstall the Cooper pipe for the heating season. Mahoning Outdoor Furnace Co is located in Mahaffe, Pa and carrys the rust prohibitor that you just add to your boiler water. Judging on your gallonage your unit may require 3-4 quarts of the rust prohibitor. It works great as does filtering the water in the off season. That's the best advice I can provide. You did a great job resurrecting your unit but it has to be protected on the unseen, inside areas as well. Good luck and many years of operation ! You won't regret it.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and I appreciate your input. I did add 1.5 gallons of additive the first year, got it from alternative heating and supplies, protech300 is the stuff. I ran my pumps on and off throughout the summer and I have a mag filter on one of the loop on the back of the boiler. I cleaned out the filter last summer and it didn't look bad at all. If you have any ideas or requests for a video please let me know, I'd be happy to give it a go.
Really enjoyed this. Thanks for taking us along your journey.
Would be very interested in a install/trenching follow-up video!
Thanks for the comment, I've got a bunch of photos of the trenching as well, I tend to go a little overboard, I installed my line 6 feet down! 😀
Great Job!
Thank you.
Nice job l buit my boiler in 2008 still working great it took 11 days and 2800 dollars to complete
Thanks for watching and the comment, I really don't know how I would have afforded this setup if I hadn't done everything myself. I've got about 5K into the boiler and all the related plumbing, (pumps, fittings, underground line, plate exchangers etc.). Another 3k or so in the infloor of the barn. So 8K total, that isn't even the price of just a medium size boiler...
Definitely want to run an anti corrosion inhibitor in the water like chemworld 830. The collar is meant to go over top of a flashing. There are some maple syrup pan manufactures that make a center ridge flashing from stainless steel. Nice job on the patch, it looked awesome.
Thanks, lots of work but well worth it. I put some protech300 water treatment in it. Going to drain and retreat this summer.
I bought a used central boiler for $2000 CAD. Using it first time this winter,already twice a water leak in the side wall of the firebox.. Paper thin,super hard to even weld a patch on(think popcan welding). This spring i will cut the water jacket away from the firebox and see if it's worth replacing the firebox with thicker steel. I agree that with some elbow grease you can save a ton of money.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, fortunately only around my chimney seemed really bad. It's sad to see how much of a throw away society we've become. My newest vehicle is twenty years old now...
You may need an expansion tank to reduce wall pressure!😊
Bro, rust is why I run gasoline. It's way cheaper than anti freeze!
Haha. Seriously, did you consider using electrolysis to clean the inside of the water jacket?
@@NoName-ml5yk I have not. But since I repaired it, I've been running this additive from alternative heating supplies. So far so good.
Also, forgot to mention: suggest in the off season to pull your stack, cover the hole and tarp the top of the unit. This will be added insurance of no rain water getting in anywhere while the boiler isn't operating. Most of the rust issues on top of the boilers happen during the summer months when it's off line and not able to evaporate any moisture that may infiltrate the unit as it's not hot. Just a tip.......
Great advice, thanks for taking the time to write this.
Hi, great job. I should do something similar and I wanted to ask you a couple of things: does the steel have to be made with particular alloy elements to resist the flame (in my case the internal part was pierced) or is simple carbon steel sufficient? Furthermore, does the welding wire also require special requirements? Thanks in advance
Hi, I just used standard mild steel for the patch, and standard .030 mig wire. I also used 6013 and 7018 arc welding rods. As long as your boiler is not stainless steel than regular mild steel and welding filler should be fine.
@@twosawacres8096 Thank you for sharing this information with me, in the next few days I will evaluate whether to follow this path. Unfortunately I find myself working on the internal part and everything is more complicated. I will probably ask for the help of a professional welder as I only have an electrode welder (coated rods) and perhaps continuous wire welding could simplify the job.
@@andrea2921 I think what most people do for holes in the burn chamber is a patch. Just grind the area to clean metal several inches into good steel, then weld the patch over it. Trying to get a flush mounted patch inside would be more difficult. Best of luck to ya.
@@twosawacres8096 I made a cut with the grinding wheel and observed that the sheet metal is worn over a large surface area so putting a specific patch on the hole would not solve the problem except for a short time. If I can I'll replace the entire upper part otherwise I'll throw away the boiler.
Good job man!
Thank you.
Yep needs a cap on the chimney
Cap? Or did you mean rain collar?
@@twosawacres8096 cap you don't want rain in it during the off season
Ah yes, you mean my bucket...