Ultimate guide, HARROP ELOCKER, How it works, what's wrong with it, And How to Make it Awesome.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2021
- Harrop ELocker How it works, what's wrong with it, And How to Make it Awesome. Ultimate guide!!!
Edit: Harrop did get in contact with me and this is what they had to say.
"Thanks for creating a very informative technical video on our industry leading ELockers Matt, and for allowing us to offer comment! The metal tab failure that you describe in your video was a known issue that was limited to a small batch of ELockers. This was caused by an incorrect welding procedure on the magnet by our external supplier. Once discovered, we very quickly changed our process and since then, all magnet tabs are welded correctly to ensure reliability and durability. We applaud you on your ingenuity to remove this apparent weakness, however, we re-iterate that this is not needed due to this manufacturing process change. We know that you will continue to push the boundaries in your ELocker equipped Bundera and really look forward to seeing more of your great content and extreme adventures!"
Here at MadMatt 4wd there is everything from 4wd tips and tricks to fixing your four wheel drive. As a professional Four Wheel Driver I am all about educating and building the 4x4 community. If you are passionate about going bush with a 4x4 then this channel is for you. Enjoy and please subscribe & Hit the bell icon to be notified as soon as they're up!!!
By making a purchase on the below website you help support me to continue to make 4x4 Content that I hope you appreciate. With any purchase on the A247 website use the code MadMatt for a discount. At the time this video was published the discount was $20 off any purchases over AU$100
www.a247.com.au/ap/MadMatt4WD/
MadMatt 4wd on Social Media:
Facebook: / madmatt4wd
Instagram: / madmatt4wd - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
After posting this video @harroptv did get in touch with me and we had an excellent conversation. I appreciate a company that genuinly wants to help us understand thier product. This is what they wrote to me.
"Thanks for creating a very informative technical video on our industry leading ELockers Matt, and for allowing us to offer comment! The metal tab failure that you describe in your video was a known issue that was limited to a small batch of ELockers. This was caused by an incorrect welding procedure on the magnet by our external supplier. Once discovered, we very quickly changed our process and since then, all magnet tabs are welded correctly to ensure reliability and durability. We applaud you on your ingenuity to remove this apparent weakness, however we re-iterate that this is not needed due to this manufacturing process change. We know that you will continue to push the boundaries in your ELocker equipped Bundera and really look forward to seeing more of your great content and extreme adventures!"
I bought and installed mine only a few months ago so I suppose I'm good.
I actually bought the Harrop E-locker off the back of one of your videos and it's the best mod I've done by a fair way, thanks Madness!
Key question here has to be, was that small batch re-called?! & How does one know they're purchasing the new improved version? Given stock can sit on shelves for 12mths or more.
@@tarayounger2585 they tell me it’s some years back so I would think it would be safe to go.
great vid again Matt, interesting topic and great to get the background to making them work and work well...
Thanks kindly Michael
It got to hear the experience of what does go wrong & what can be fix easily that others refuse to tell you about, thanks matt
Glad to help
Well presented informative video Matt especially in plain english, i was considering this particular product for my weekend tourer based on the simplicity of a switch as opposed to potential air leaks each product has their merits. Based on the video, comments and the reply from Harrop I’ll roll the dice on their product. Thanks
Very informative vid. Much appreciated.👍
Glad to help
Great Ozzie ingenuity. I like how you solved the problem. Look out for the new .02 upgrade. Looking to put lockers in the old girl. Thanks for the info. Keep up the great work Matt. 👏👏👏
Nice one.
Thanks for providing such useful info Matt! Just subbed
Glad to help and thanks for the sub
I personally have the TJM pro lockers in my GQ. Love the super strong design and the separate air system. I installed them along with some new 4.6’s and rebuilt the whole diffs. It was a steep learning curve but I had time through covid. Everything has worked perfect and I’m happy I gave it a crack and saved myself some serious coin!
Well done on having a go. I’m self taught on diffs as well.
well said ! great video matt !
Thank you
I have Harrop lockers front and rear in a 2011 Nissan Patrol. We had them fitted when vehicle was new and with plenty of use, they have been brilliant. I only had one problem with the after market electrical switches I fitted not earthing correctly, but that was an installation error and easy to fix.
Love it from Central Utah 👍
I have been running the E Locker in my TJ's rear Dana 44 for years without any issues at all, looking into a limited slip for the front 30 (As I've never needed a front locker yet) when I upgraded axles and switch out the 3.73's for 5.13's this Spring. 🤔
Thanks for the comment.
Thanks mate👍
Pleasure
Hi Matt
I agree I have had them in my lux for 4 years had no problem
That’s awesome thanks for the comment
Great Video Matt, I am amazed by a few who have opinions on this subject that think their opinions should be the only ones on the subject as they are 110% right, they then post why you are wrong and and then agree to disagree, and seem to do that almost every subject to do with 4 wheeling as they are the only experts on you tube. Well I agree with your autopsy on the Harrop Locker. Does not mean I am right to agree, it just means you managed to convince me more than someone else. Great video and keep the good videos coming.
I hear you. Thanks for the comment.
Matt, way over my head ;) My Audi quattro had Torsen's in it, worked like a charm. Rear E-lock up to 32 kph then it unlocked.
Lol. Just keep the video on repeat! 😂😂😂
Good stuff. I put a Harrop E-locker in the front end of my ‘99 100 series LandCruiser after the stock diff exploded last winter. It’s a well known weakness on this vehicle. No problems so far. I don’t push it too hard, so I’ll just run it as is for now.
Thanks for the good info. 👍
If it happens again for the nitro gears. That fixed my issues with the 105 blowing diffs. Blew two.
@@MadMatt4WD Great to hear. I did go with the Nitro gears. I got the whole package from East Coast Gear Supply in Louisberg, North Carolina, USA. The were great. Really easy to deal with.
@@mmpatriot2170 Exact same scenario happened to my 99 LX470 and I also went with the same kit from East Coast Gear. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet!
Awesome content ❤️
Thank you so much 😀
I believe the ProLocker is the old McNamara diff lock. It is built strong because it was designed and made by true diff experts. McNamara sold the rights to TJM who now have them made to McNamara specifications overseas. Jack McNamara was the father who designed the original Land Rover diff lock, then his son and now I believe the grandson. I had his first production Toyota rear diff lock in my HJ47 Troopie.
I believe this is correct.
glad i found this,i run 1 in the rear of my mux and just found its not working,had a look and found broken wire at diff entry point and since seeing the vid noticed no wiring cover there either. I have never played really hard in the car so hope its not the bracket you showed,In 2 minds now as still under warrenty.There is no sign of impact damage and wire is well secured with enough travel when fully flexed,i will talk to the dealer that fitted it but if they give me a hard time might just do it myself and do your mods,cheers
Wow that’s interesting. I’d talk to the dealer first
I agree with you regarding what Stephan says, his concerns are unfounded
Yeah I’ve got no concerns with them.
Thanks for the video Matt!
I have a Chinese luxury mid-size SUV that came fitted with these lockers front and rear from factory. At first I thought that there's no way that they would be sturdy enough considering how "fairly priced" the vehicle was. However when I took them to the rocky mountains and climbed a good amount of loose-rocks hills, I was genuinely impressed. Yes they do have the exact disengagement characteristic that is mentioned in this video, but I'll take that over an open diff any day!
Chinese luxury🤣😂😂
@@officialWWM Well believe it or not, it is based on Toyota Prado 150, but it has more bling bling and electronics than the Prado. Will it last as long? Only time will tell.
@@MailDeliverySystem-xw6hh what is it? Even if it does last, being Chinese, the resale will be a disaster!
@@officialWWM A valid point indeed, but I don't buy vehicles with reselling in mind. It is a 2021 GWM HAVAL w/Rear spare tire carrier.
I didn’t realise they were running the harrop e locker very interesting.
Great Idea Matt, love the explanation. Tried it on my damaged E-locker but mig welded it and cooked it. $250 later and i'll hopefully be back in business soon!
Yeah way too hot with mig. Even the tig is a bit hot imo.
@@MadMatt4WD I would personally try a Chemical weld next time
I run tjm pro lockers in my landcruiser I was always going to run air but i did watch the video that Matt's talking about and it confirmed in my opinion to go with tjm pro lockers as the car is all tjm gear anyway
That’s a very fair call
Great tutorial Matt. Thanks for sharing this. My only personal experience is with Toyota OEM systems. Both electric and cable. It's nice to get inside one l haven't examined. If you have a reason to pull an ARB some day I'd love to see a similar presentation
Hey Dan. A few people want a similar vid so I should do that in time.
@@MadMatt4WD I look forward to that. Hope to meet up with you again sometime soon
good video mate, trust me Nitro know you love their gears :)
Ha ha. Sweet.
In that case they should cough up... ;)
Currently running E-Lockers in my Troopie and never had any problems, but will probably go ProLockers in my 80 as I also want onboard air to inflate the 35's
Nice one.
Good to know I just put one in my D23 Navara which missed out on a factory locker I watched your mate do his comparison and when he said he is going to replace his 2 E-lockers with TJM pro lockers I thought I may have made a mistake putting the E-locker in
I think you’ll be very happy.
Great video Matt. I run harrops front and rear and really like the simplicity of the design. This was something I was not aware of though. I guess you're pushing them harder than I ever would, but clearly there's room for improvement there! Would it not be better to drill and tap those stop bolts so that they can be screwed in to the magnet rather than tig welded to it?
I wonder, when harrop concedes that your modifications are an improvement, and decides to implement it, will they offer to retrofit all of our old lockers for free? Ha ha! Probably not. Still love them though, now I just have something else to think about whenever I use them.
Hi Jade thanks for the comment I figure you can’t drill and tap because the wire of the magnet internally will get damaged. Time will tell.
@@MadMatt4WD good point. It probably would too
nice video matt. Side note - are reduction gears for the transfer case an option for bunderas? depending on what's available, you could keep your highway revs at the sweet spot but have the reduction in low range, most likely more reduction than what diff gears alone will give, that's if you find it lacking. Just a thought 👍
Yes you can get them but it’s my belief that the closer a ratio change is to the wheel the stronger the driveline is. If I do the trans then the diff has to handle the extra torque. With this setup it’s diff then wheel. For my needs I’ll live with the onroad compromise for Offroad strength.
My Bj74 has harrop elockers front and rear , haven't used the front much but rear many times and it just works...
That’s awesome cheers mate
Best locker i have ever had.
Nice.
Not saying the other lockers are bad, but the Pro lockers are my preference, they're simply a better and stronger design than the Elocker and ARB.
Saying that, they're all fairly good if they're installed correctly, for this reason, I install my own lockers too. I've even got a Chinese copy of the ARB locker in one vehicle, still going strong 10years on, no air leaks or broken bits.👍
I like the pro locker design as well. It’s simple and way more mechanical.
They don't make them for most of the dual cabs as the diffs are too small as I looked into getting one
thank you for sharing the video
what do LSD rear of the truck 5 ton 4x4 and what is best put in the front diff?
Hey Robert. I can’t advise you on your truck. Sorry. Also check your Instagram messages. 😜
You should do a video review and overview on TREE lockers, I've been meaning to get a set and everyone I have talked to runs them but have comp rigs, No real good info out there, perfect video idea for you!
Never heard of a tree locker.
Good video Matt. As you have all three makes of lockers, which one do you prefer? And besides the mod to the Harrop, which brand has given you the least hassles? Thanks again.
They all have issues in one way or the other
Thanks for sharing, mine didn’t work while out wheeling yesterday and I’m about have a look over it .
I noted that you said that the magnet stops the ring from turning however I’m sure you understand retrospectively the magnet acts as a drag against the ring and forces the pins to write up the cam and then the magnet on the ring drag against each other the whole time the magnet is energised. I’m curious about the right amount of friction required to offer drag consistently and whether the type of oil use has any influence on this great video mate We have to catch up for a beer sometime
I guess the choice of words was off but yes you’re right the cam ring still turns. I’ve heard of them engaging when the wrong oil is used or too cold also when contaminated.
Not quite right. The electromagnet stays stationary all of the time. When it is energized, it grabs the ring and the two parts are now stationary. Because the carrier, or hemisphere (depends on which trade school you went to) is turning with the crown wheel, there is a tiny amount of friction between the carrier and the stationary ring. It is inconsequential. However, you touched on oil viscosity and contamination and this could be the cause of rare cases of self engagement. Not something you would want to happen on the freeway at 100 klicks!
Appreciate the Information looking at these Harrop E lockers vs the Arb air lockers for my 4runner
I rate them.
@@MadMatt4WD Huh?
@@AntonioClaudioMichael they’re good lockers.
@@MadMatt4WD okay Got you Mate Appreciate The feedback Still Kinda Leaning More tords A ARB for More reliability I have a few ARBs Already doing a front And Rear And Keeping My Center Diff Lock As Well on my v8 4runner
@@AntonioClaudioMichael I’ve had reliability issues with arbs. The centre difflock is simply a feature to give you basic 4wd. If you removed it you’d loose 4wd and just have an all wheel drive vehicle.
Matt you need to get a mechanic friend down here in melbourne onto this. Make up a bunch of the parts and have a set price to do the mod with a gear oil change. Cost might end up the problem, I'd be happy to pay a few hundred for insurance.
You’re an ideas man.
thank you for this video Matt. I had exactly the same problem last week... The cable was cut from the inside because the two tabs broke off. Terrain Tamer agreed to replace the magnet for me but they say the problem is with the installation. The solder you added on top, won't that damage the magnet?
Glad to hear terrain tamer did the right thing. As I say in the video I tig welded it and I think you need to be very careful with that.
mate very common issue happens to many people
Great video. Hey Matt, if you had to choose between the elocker and pro locker which would you go for? I'm in the market for twin lockers for my 100 series. Cheers
Interesting question. I've not had a huge amount of experience with the pro-locker to know what it's faults may be. I do like the design of the pro-locker. It looks simple and robust. Harrop got in touch with me the other day and told me the failure I had was due to a batch issue they had some years back and they no longer have the issue of tabs braking off. So given that I've got no issues with the Elocker either. I've used them a huge amount with no other issues. So to answer you question I'd say either locker is a good choice so buy on price.
@@MadMatt4WD thanks for the detailed reply. Much appreciated.
I am installing one of these at present. I have worked on a variety of diffs over many years. This is a new experience for me. Question. As the Cam ring is engaged to the magnet when its activated what keeps those locking pins engaged? Putting it another way why is the locker mechanism not disengaging every quarter turn?
Because the magnet slips against the cam plate that holds the pins in. The magnet is held still by the retaining tabs.
Matt what's your experience or thoughts on the LOKKA auto diff lock?
I’ve never run one because I don’t like automatic locking differentials. Not because there are inherently bad but because I like choosing when and where my locker works
Good idea,unfortunately my rear diff doesn't have that locking tab like my front diff. My land rover county has a Salisbury diff,needs shims to adjust play. Front elocker was easy to fit,rear was a challenge.
Very Interesting.
Good review Matt. I’m still slightly confused about what bits move and don’t move. I now see that the cam spins with the carrier when unlocked, but isn’t the carrier where the pins are connected to the crown wheel? If so, wouldn’t the pins keep turning with the crown wheel and continually ride up and down the cam that is now locked to the magnet? Or is the carrier where the pins are only rotating when there is differential action across the axles?
Hey Richard you pick up on a good point I didn’t mention in the video once the pins get to the end of the cam the cam late rotates against the magnet.
@@MadMatt4WD Thanks Matt. I found someone else's video just after watching yours where they had the axle on stands and the rear cover off and showed operation slowly in the vehicle, and that showed me what you say here. I wonder how much wear that gets if the cam plate is turning against the magnet while magnetised? Probably adding to why your magnet holding pins failed.
Yeah I don’t know. It is lubricated by the oil
Sorry to ask Matt but i do respect your experience and knowledge, im about to install elocker and new nitro ring an pinion 4:3 in my 105 front & rear and really lost at what oil i should use? 80W-90 or 85w-140 and mineral or fully synthetic??
Any of those is fine.
Nirto gear set ? ide say thats a reference to the heat treatment process know as nitriding which is very hard like 70 hrc but also very shallow like 0.03mm so they mate well be through hardened to high 40s as well .
Awesome video Matt,
My 2015 fj cruiser has the factory elocker in the rear, would it be worth it if i have a harrop elocker installed in the front ? I wheel alot and am going for the harder tracks. Would it put too much stress on the drive line in particular the front components like the front CVs? Would love your thoughts on this please.
Cheers Loz
Ps love ya work and go the bundy !! 😀
Hey mate. Imo a locker is always going to make a stronger diff centre because it holds the crown wheel better. It doesn’t flex away from the pinion. As for blowing cvs a locker doesn’t make you blow cvs if you drive with wisdom. The tyre provides a given amount of resistance and any given surface. So adding bigger and better tyres is what will blow cvs before a locker will. Is the rear locker harrop? I don’t think so. Anyway yes add one to the front it’ll make more of an impact on your wheeling than the rear does. Go watch my video on front vs rear lockers.
@@MadMatt4WD thank you Matt. I am running 32 inch tyres, Nitto trail grapplers 275/70/R17.
The rear is factory elocker from Toyota so not sure if its actually harrop or not. I drive within my boundaries but am starting to push the fj although not yet beyond its limits lol 😅
Make sure to send me your rollover video when you make it. 😂😂😂😂
@@MadMatt4WD hahaha 😆
Thankyou. Just need to be able to afford them
Yes they’re not cheap
Hey mate, we have recently brought a Harrop elocker too for a Hilux project. I'm going to be doing the same modification to restrain the magnetic. Just a question, how many amps did you use when you welded the steel bolts on? I've got a good AC/DC tig, just wondering where abouts.
Hey mate. Awesome. Since this vid went up harrop contacted me and say all current lockers don’t have this problem any more and it’s not needed. They had a batch issue. I can’t remember the amps. Would have been low 30 maybe.
Thanks for sharing. Any news from Harrop on fixing this? As this seems the design Ineos is putting into the Grenadiers now. Cheers.
I did a follow up video on it. Search harrop in my videos
Hey Mat... I've got a Toyota Hilux 3L turbo diesel with the Harrop Eaton e-locker in the rear... I would like to know what gear oil is recommended when using this style of locket..I've heard API 5 75W-90 mineral based gear oil and others tell me run synthetic..What's the correct gear oil and any recommendations on brand of gear oil also and would I use same gear oil in front diff with no locker...Thanks heaps Nick
I use penrite and would use what they say for the hilux. The locker won’t care
Diff locks - where does one start? I have a GU Patrol and have run a front auto-lokka for over five years. Love the positive traction and especially the fact that I have the ability to turn with traction. Tremendous on up-hill muddy climbs through trees where steering is important. But - I have pulled it out because of the fact that this diff puts a lot of load on all of the other front end components like hubs, axle splines and even the front drive chain in the transfer case, which stretches. Even when not in 4x4, there is still some loading going on because both axles are locked together most of the time. When heading downhill in 2WD and hubs locked, if a wheel locks up under brakes it will cause the dog teeth inside the diff to skip over the dogs which emits an awful clunking sound. I have replaced this Lokka with an LSD from the rear. Now to the rear diff - I have the Eaton e-locker fitted, but rarely have cause to use it. The front LSD makes a hell of an improvement. That being said, having seen the comparison between Pro-locker and the bigger, meatier, gears, hemisphere and cross-shafts, I will pull out the e-locker before it fails. Eaton made the hemisphere and gears physically smaller to save on parts inventory, tooling costs and so they could use this smaller centre in more models. Purely a cost decision. Very little can go wrong with the pro-locker - provided it is fitted correctly and the sloppy machine work and clearances are fixed on installation. ARB air-leaker,(locker) rely on two 'O' rings to seal air pressure and over time O-rings exposed to cycles of hot and cold and oil will harden and leak, resulting in pressurised air leaking into the guts of the housing and then forcing oil out from axle seals and breathers. Not to mention the constant cycling of the compressor trying to maintain pressure to actuate the locking ring. Eventually the diff has to be pulled out for servicing.
I have run with Detroit auto-unlockers in a short wheel base MQ back in the days, but what a nightmare on Elm-street, or any street for that matter! Very touchy in corners if you come off or on the loud pedal when cornering. The huge backlash, resulting from clearance take-up within the dog teeth, was also disconcerting. You apply the park brake (which clamped on the tailshaft) and the car would still rock forward about four inches as the slack took up! Agricultural at best, but that is where it came from - agricultural applications in tractors and loaders. Torsen Gleeson, not driven with it - heard too many horror stories of them blowing apart, and very small selection of vehicles it is made for. Cheers. Pound for pound, the pro-locker has to be ahead because of size and strength. Even if people have no issues with the Eaton, why would you choose a physically smaller unit when a bigger, stronger unit is available?
There’s so many points we could chat about but probably a few of my other videos on lockers would be of interest to you. Search my channel for lockers and differential. That should help.
For simplicity sake and what I feel is more "bush proof", I have an auto "lokka" and a reshimmed lsd in my GQ tourer. Very capable the way it is, if I can't crawl up something or am still unable to drive an obstacle, track building, lower pressures, different line, winch etc is the way to go. Neither have let me down. Different application I suppose, but perhaps people jump on the twin locked train and dismiss a good lsd in the rear.
It depends on what type of wheeling you do. For me I want to be able to control exactly what happens and when with my 4wd but that’s because I’m chasing a technical buzz. But you’re right a good patrol lsd works very well.
@@MadMatt4WD Definitely application dependant! Just wanted to reiterate your point of how good a locker is, when it fails in the middle of nowhere 😬
Matt, what mods do you have to do with the ARB one and TJM one?
None that I’m aware of. The arbs seem to have issues with leaks.
if I am in natural stuck on a steep hill and I engage my locker can I roll backward and the pins will engage. or do they only engage when moving forward?
Most lockers will engage with any rotation. But don’t be in neutral if at all possible.
I have ordered the Eaton E-lockers front and rear in my Ineos Grenadier. Not going to do hard technical rock climbing regularly, but just like airbags, I would rather have them and not need them rather than need them and not have them.
Absolutely sound wisdom there.
So for someone who doesn't wheel their vehicle hardcore that just wants a locker for the few times a year they do, in your opinion, would I have the same durability issues as yourself?
No I don’t think you’ll have any problems.
Hey all, for someone that wants an aftermarket Locker who has no technical knowledge on how to adjust or repair and wants a good balance of manly on road and a weekend here and there where a rear locker would be a safer choice. What would be a good choice.. it’s all above my pay grade on this.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
You could consider an auto locker for the front they’re cheap and work well. I don’t use them because I like control.
Had 4 Harrop ELockers break cross shafts at work. All in the rear of Landcruisers (Big tyres .chipped ,etc). Stock toyota Landcruiser rear diff cross shafts are 22mm diameter , Harrop ELocker cross shafts are only 16mm diameter. Not hard to see why they get broken when used for what someone who has fitted big tyres and extra power wants to do with them. ARB Lockers have 19mm cross shafts for the same vehicle , if my memory is correct , and I cant say I have seen any break.
That’s interesting. I wonder if Harrop addressed this.
Correct. Tiny cross-shafts and small pinion gears, because the carrier is too small and that is a big as they could fit in. When you examine the gears and cross-shaft in a direct comparison with Pro-locker - you gotta ask yourself, why would you buy the smaller, weaker e-locker? Eaton could have made the carrier as large as physically possible to fit in the housing, but they did not and I can only assume it was a cost thing dictated by the bean counters.
How do the Toyota factory lockers work Matty?
They use an electric motor to actuate it.
Is it possible to convert it into a cable link type? To delete the magnet.
Anything’s possible but I don’t know how you’d do it.
hi matt.can i get a little info on welding to that magnetic ring please.a local fan shop said not to do it as it messes with the magnet.how’d you go with it mate?
cheers
As I say in the video it needs to be tig welded on as low a heat as possible. It could affect the magnet but only if you go to hot. It’s really not hard to weld. The tabs are welded on by harrop so it can’t be to bad.
cheers mate.i’m going for it 🤙
let me know how it goes
Ide like Matt to run a video on pro locker and Airb air locker handy mods if any
Hey mate. One day I might have something worth saying there.
Can I purchase a harrop e locker here in the USA for my Fj80?
I believe so but I’m not sure where from.
Why not switch off elocker before reversing? Then switch back on when going forward?
Sometimes I do but often it stays locked anyway.
Very good info mate, When i have the front out i will be doing that mod in front for sure, Would you go harrop in rear of dmax or air locker as thats my next mod as i would have air available for tyres if i went arb air locker your thoughts ?
I'd go Harrop as I have too many air leak issues with ARBs.
ARB all the way to Cape York and beyond
Can it go elsewhere? 😂😂😂
@@MadMatt4WD
Of course mate but cape and Kimberley is next years trip. Running the 4.3 nitro gears in the 200. Going well so far
Sweet. The nitros are beast from my experience.
I had the e lockers in my patrol and on two long touring trips the wires sheared off at the diff. I wont go there again
And now you know why that’s happened
Thought it was a fair assessment.
Thanks
tion
Look how cute and tiny that third member is! Lol
I know right. Such a sweet little darling. 🤣
@@MadMatt4WD hahahah...I meant that compared to my arb equipt Dana 80
Prefer TJM but not available for Dmax. Next the Harrop.
I do like the Tjm pro locker design.
They are not available to most dual cabs as the diff housing is not big enough
Matt for US presidency so he can work with the automakers and get us more decent 4x4 vehicles on this side of the planet
Ha ha ha. If I was president id upset a fair for greenies. I’d only be in for one term as well. But oh boy would we be doing some fun wheeling EVERYWHERE.
you crack me up Matt, "You buy got gear so you want the stuff to work" lets open up the new e-locker you bought, void the warranty and start welding it to not break... does not sound like a good value proposition in my book. In regards to the storm in the teacup. It depends on how you drive most people I drive with including myself have fun driving obstacles technically and with the least amount of attempts as a challenge/sport or whatever you like to call it. So any second, 3rd, 4t attempt is a personal minus for me/us. With an e-locker, way, way too many repeated attempts are because the locker was not engaged when it needed to be not because you didn't pick the right line, gear momentum. If you don't mind how many attempts you have on an obstacle the e-locker will eventually work and get you over (if it hasn't broken).I guess really depends on how you drive. In this regard, we have to agree to disagree. ;-)
You crack me up Stefan. Do you see the tracks I drive in the manual shorty Bundera on 33s with no flex? Often time first go! Anyway we all know you and your mates are. the only ones who goes hard. The rest of us are mere beginners who try to keep up.
Stefan....i know you're a europhile but that was seriously hard work to read. How many times did you hit the crack pipe before you wrote that? Or did you proof read that through the lens of an empty schnapps bottle? We all know you have a bit of a hard on for bagging out e-lockers but dude, did you even watch the same vid as us? i mean your comments were about as relevant to the video as a hard on in a convent. But no matter, i still look forward to your next "hardcore fire trail" youtube video.
Thanks for a very creative comment but let’s not get too nasty.
I’ve got a Harrop Elocker and damaged my locking ring and a side gear in my Dana44. I cannot for the life of me find the rebuild kits listed online. Not even Harrop or Eaton stock them! So I’ve basically got a broken non-rebuildable locker. 2K down the drain. Buyer beware
Yikes. That’s not good. @harrop should have all the support you need. I would expect nothing less.
No interest from Harrop when it's planned obsolescence
Can I put some adhesive in the small gap between the tab and bearing cap or even weld them together to prevent the impact from movement? Thank you very much.
No the tab needs to be free floating. Just ensure the tab is well welded to the magnet.
@@MadMatt4WD Understand. Thanks for the information.💯
ARB AIR locker for me