Hunter PGV Sprinkler Valve Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 เม.ย. 2020
- When you are having trouble with a sprinkle valve, like this Hunter PGV automatic sprinkler control valve, and need to do a repair, replacing the top of the valve along with the guts can be just the thing to fix the problems.
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In this video I show you the steps to replacing the top of a sprinkler valve. Sometimes it is a good idea to go ahead and replace the entire top of the valve, which you can do. The new top has the new diaphragm, solenoid, and spring in it. This can solve many problems with the valve and can make the repair easy and efficient. This will help with your sprinkler system valve troubleshooting. You can do this type of repair instead of cutting out the entire valve and replacing it. It helps save time and money.
You may also like this video: Learn how to wire in the solenoid
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Organize your sprinkler controller and zones with the information you need to program your sprinkler system the most efficient way possible to save water and create a great looking landscape.
I liked the way the wiring magically installed itself. Good vid.
Thank you so much for this video! I just cleaned out my diaphragm and was able to fix my sprinklers so that they popped up again. You saved my sanity and wallet. Thank you
Thanks for pointing out the little round rubber part of the diaphragm that needs to fit into the vent hole.
Best video ever! Thanks!
Great idea to just replace the top of the valve. I’m glad I watched the video. Saved me lots of time and the hassle of dealing with PVC.
Thanks for this video, it enabled me to accurately diagnose the problems I had with this exact same system configuration and fix the issue myself.
Thanks for uploading this video.
Used this video to help me fix the same problem, thanks!
Just the info I was looking for. Great instructions, clear and easy to follow. The top of my valve replacement took less than 20 minutes!
Good. Great job!
So glad you saved me the trouble of enlarging the hole and having to swap out the entire unit -- the top-only approach did the trick. Much appreciated!
Same here lol
I just installed my first 3 inline valves for a customer. Thanks for some knowledge brother. It came out awesome
Nice work!
Good job thanks for showing how is done
Great thinking I like it, you just replaced the upper part of the valves and keptted bottm one.
God bless you and have a good one 😇👍
Thank you! I am gonna to change it and I hope it´ll works
Thanks,I watched this about ten times,in order to change my unit
Good I’m glad it helped.
Great video but did I miss the part about reconnecting the wiring?
Me and my wife are playing a drinking game; drink every time you say silanoid. 🤣Great video, I’m so relieved I don’t have to remove and replace the whole valve.
Good time saving tips. Well done, and thanks for posting. (My box looks almost as disgusting, but does work.)
You’re welcome
Good video. What PSI does the water come out of that Hunter PGV valve?
I've got a little hand pump to get the water out before I start working. A turkey baster works too for a small amount of water. That way I don't get debris in the valve and I can definitely see if the valve is leaking after the repair. Good instructional video, subscribed.
Great points and tips. thanks.
Great video! Thanks 😊
You Bet!
Great video! However, when I turn it on manually the water doesn't come on! The timer is brand new but could it be the wire connection? If so, can I just pick another color of the unused wires and connect that at both ends?
Great video brother!! Thumbs Up
Thank you!
I have Round hunter valves and the inside of the valve box was full of water.This could be a diaphragm issue?
Thanks for the great video. I have a two zone drip irrigation rooftop deck system with a hunter PGV valve set up. I am having some issues with each zone. One zone only works when i manually rotate the solenoid and the other doesn't even seem to do drip at all (even after opening up the solenoid for manual operation). I think it may have to do with the bleeder screw (I can't seem to turn this - any tricks?) should it be fully tightened or loosened?. I am a total novice with this and I appreciate the videos and help. In order for the system to work normally with the station controller, should all of the things on the valve (bleeder screw and solenoid be fully tightened?). Any help with trouble shooting would be appreciated!
Yes the solenoid and bleed screw should be screwed down for normal operations. It would be good to test the solenoid and wiring to make sure there is no problems there. But it may be a water or pressure issue. These valves do need a minimum pressure to open and close and operate properly. I did a rooftop system on top of a parking garage that had a booster pump and we had very little water and pressure to deal with by the time it got to the top. So we had to split some zones up reducing our flow. It helped a little. Check to make sure you have good water and pressure at the valves too. Just a few things to check. Good luck.
If one Anti Siphon valve won't open can it effect all of the zones or just that one zone?
Do i need to turn off both sprinkler main water valve and irrigation system valves when changing out? I have 1 sprinkler head slowly leaking when off i tried to bleed the valve to let any air out but still the same.
Great vid!
Thanks
Thanks for the video but How do you wire it back? I just figured that would be a good step to show.
Yes that would have been. I must have gotten distracted when I was wiring it back in. Sorry about that. I will try to get something up showing the best way to wire a valve in. Thank you.
I would like to see that too.
Those were AC solenoids. With the two valves in that box you’ll need to have one wire from each valve connect to the white (common) wire and then the other wire will go to one of the colored wires. If the wiring continues to other valves in the system the white wire will have another lead that goes beyond those valves and that needs to be connected too. The white wire runs to all the valves in the system. Make sure to use waterproof connectors. There were just regular wire nuts at the beginning of the repair. It looks like he followed up with waterproof connectors.
I have the same old and new valves. The dude at the irrigation supply store said I’ll have to replace the entire valve, but it looks like you were able to swap out the old top with the new top. Any issues? I noticed the screws are different lengths. I’ll try to use to original screws. Thanks. You might have saved me the hassle of cutting pipe. I already dug out the box. Should have found your video sooner.
I hope it worked for you. In most cases you can do this with not issues. I do use the original screws. I did run into a leaking valve the other day that this did not solve the problem and I had to cut out the valve and replace the entire thing. But I always try this first. Sometimes the guys at the supply stores don't have the in field experience that we need sometimes. I'll ask a question about something and they look at me like they have no idea what I'm talking about. Lol. Then I usually call another irrigator that has been doing this work forever and ask them.
Thank you for the video I think I can repair my own system now. Even though I just spent $11,000 to have a new system put in that I have had nothing but trouble with I think I'm going to have to start fixing it myself. And maybe seek legal recourse
Oh man. I hate to hear that. I hope you get things fixed and working.
I'd like to follow up with this video. I have this exact problem. The top of my Hunter valve is squarr and has a single twist knob right in the middle. But i cannot find that exact model diaphragm. I was curious if the new square diaphragm witht he Ingle twist knob and bleeding knob top half would fit the old model. Watching this video it seems that it would. Can you confirm that? Wish I could show pictures.
"Most of the time" the new replacement parts do work. I usually buy a new valve and replace everything except the base like I did in this video. It is the same price or cheeper in some cases. Every once in a while I do run into a thing where this does not work, and I have to cut out the valve and replace the entire thing. You will most likely have to go to a sprinkler supply store to find the right valve. Or you may just have to call a local professional to help you out. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Hunter PV1, zone 6 suddenly stopped popping up. Not sure why... the manual solenoid trick didn’t work, the bleeder screw sprayed water, but the heads still didn’t pop up! I then took off the valve bonnet, turned on zone & water gushed up from valve... so what do you think? Solenoid plunger stuck down?
If it has a flow control make sure it is all the way open and not screwed down. You may try replacing the top and guts of the valve and see if that works like you see in this video.
Thanks for this video! Very helpful. So I replaced the top of the valve (new solenoid, new diaphragm, new top - just old base). That solved the leaking at the sprinkler head however when the system is on water comes out of the valve into the valve box. Any idea of what may be causing this leak at the valve since all is new except for the base of the valve?
You may need to check to make sure the diaphram is installed properly. If it is a hunter valve they are prone to that. and make sure the base is not cracked. That is off the top of my head.
Mine randomly started flooding. My zones don’t rotate. As soon as I turn in irrigation water it automatically runs my first zone in front yard. I even turn off/unplug sprinkler system and water continues to run/valve box floods. Got a quote of $750 to replace. Being tight financially it’s something I can’t do at moment so trying to trouble shoot. This first video that gave good detail. Been a nightmare. Just happened randomly
Hi! When I turn the valve on manually with a screw driver, some water starts spraying out the side of the solenoid (no water comes out the sprinkler heads). Also, if I try to activate the zone from my control box, the solenoid just buzzed, but no water sprays out anywhere. Thoughts?
It sounds like the solenoid might be bad. Or it could be that the valve is clogged up with something. You may need to take it apart and flush it out.
@@AmericanIrrigator I have the same problem as kmeyers6. No zones will turn on manually at the solenoid or from the control panel. Checked the resistance on all solenoids and they appear good. Do you recommend replacing them one by one first or taking the top of each valve off and inspect and possibly replace?
What about the wiring? Do you just splice the red wires on the new solenoid to the red wires already there after snipping them?
One wire will need to be spliced to the power wire for that zone and the other wire spliced into the common wire.
Good day sir...did you try to repair a hunter solenoid?i have a lot of broken starter here..
I have found that it works best to start over with new stuff. That is why I go ahead and replace it like this one.
I see you replaced the top of your SRV valve with the top of a PGV valve. Will this work? I am asking because my older system has the SRV valves and I would like to replace the tops as I repair them, but I can't find the older SRV valves anywhere. Thanks in advance.
Yes you can do this. I did double check with one of our suppliers here and they did confirm that the diaphragm and replacement parts are the same part number. The only difference is the bottom seat ring in the base. Sometimes I take it out and replace it and sometimes I don’t. It’s good to use the one that fits in the base the best. I hope this helps.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thanks!! The bottom seat ring is the removable perforated white ring the diaphragm sit in, correct? This helps a lot. Thanks again!
@@tomb3925 Yes that is correct.
Good video. I did not know that the Hunter SRV TOP (green) and the Hunter PGV TOP (black) were interchangeable. No one else seems to realize this. The HUNTER SRV valves are no longer made so to use the top replacement method you will need to purchase the Hunter PGV valve! The main difference is that the Hunter PGV (black) valve has a bleeder port and the Hunter SRV (green) does not. Does the bleeder port on the Hunter PGV (black) top function when placed on the Hunter SRV (green) bottom?
I believe everything works the same. I haven’t had any issues with changing these out like this but I have not talked to anyone at Hunter specifically about it. That would be a good question to ask. Thanks.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thanks
Just top halved my 4 valves. One needed extra snugging down to stop a leak. However, on one valve I have a problem. When I turned water back on, one valve was running. I had to close down the Flow Control to stop the water. When I opened the Flow Control, water stayed off. However, when I manually turned on with the valve lever, when I tried to close, the water would again not shut off until I used the Flow Control. I had the same problem when using the time to turn the valve on and off. I then discovered that if I left the Flow Control in Closed position, I could get the valve to work both manually and from the clock and the water would come on and turn off. Is it possible that the Top Half of the valve (new) is defective and the Flow Control is threading just the opposite of what it should have been. Please help. Thanks
Oh man. You may have to take that valve apart again and check it to make sure it is not defective and that everything is lined up right. The diaphragm in these hunter valves can be hard to line up. They have that little nob that goes in the hole where the solenoid goes in. If it is not lined up it could cause the valve to be stuck open and not shut off. It can also cause it to leak. Take the solenoid out and put it back in to see if that helps. I'm thinking that there may be something going on with the diaphragm. Let me know what you figure out.
@@AmericanIrrigator I did remove the Solenoid and looked for dirt, etc. Strangely, this fixed the problem when I turned on and off manually several times and when I did the same using the Timer. I thought it was fixed. However, this morning, when I went to check on the 4 valves to see if still not leaking I was sick to see this one Valve that did not shut off once again! Using the Flow Control, I closed down to stop the water from coming out. I think I will now replace the Top Half once again and see if by chance that the first one was defective. My Valves are made by Buckner and have the 4 bolt pattern. Diaphragm has a little tab that sits under where the Solenoid goes so this is a good guide for lining up. Thanks for your advice!
Found out that someone (My dad most likely) broke off the wires on the solenoids forever ago. He went on a trip for a week, and asked me to run the sprinklers by opening them manually when I got home from work.
I tried setting up the controller that came with the house nearly 15 years ago, only to find out the reason why he's been doing it manually for so long.
Just texted him asking if he wanted me to buy new valves, so I could swap out the heads / bonnets as Hunter calls them. $60 for having it be automatic again I assumed would've been an automatic yes. But he wants to see it for himself..
($60 for 3 valves, and a pack of waterproof wire nuts to replace the 15 year old ones)
Would this problem cause a low pressure issue in a section is your drip system?
If the valve is clogged or the diaphragm is messed up or the valve is not opening all the way for some other reason, then you may have a low volume of water and low pressure issue. Making sure the valve is working correctly is a good place to start.
how do you troubleshoot a valve if it doesn't work manually by turning the solenoid?
Try first making sure there is water to the valve. Make sure the water is on and if there is a master valve, make sure it is on. If there is a master valve and it is off, you will not be able to turn a valve on manually because there will be no water to it. Try another valve to see if you have good water. If it is not a water issue, then you may need to take the valve apart. Open it up and make sure there is nothing clogging it up or something in there that is keeping the diaphragm from opening up. To do this you will need to turn the water off before you take the valve apart. And if things still are not going your way, it may be time to call a licensed professional and let them look at it. A lot of the time is it worth the money to hire a professional because they can do it fast. We have the tools and know how, which in the long run can save you money. Time for sure. Let me know what you figure out.
@@AmericanIrrigator it might not be the valve at all. It could be a chocked off line feeding the heads . tree roots.
How much did you charge for this job ?
I have a issue with my system the pressure is low when i turn it on my front yard one’s awesome run but when the back yard one has low pressure what could it be
Maybe check to make sure there is not a break in a line or sprinkler head or it could be that a zone is stuck on and using water. This is just a few things to check.
@@AmericanIrrigator heads are good just crappy pressure but will check the valve to see if stuck on and also will check the solenoids too would love same pressure in the back like how i have in front
You may look into how many heads are on the zone in the back and make sure the right nozzles are used. It could be that the zone is trying to flow too much water.
@@AmericanIrrigator i had the same amount using for about 7 years worked fine but all sudden pressure started going down on it but will definitely look into that too if cant fix will call a professional out there love videos very helpful
My sprinklers pressure was very low. I stripped the wires on this valve then it wasn’t working
I wasn’t able to turn the valve until I turned the water off lol and when I did I turned it too much and the solenoid wasn’t piece popped out. I turned the water off quickly then i turned it back in place and turned the water on and the sprinklerswork good again lmao I guess I got lucky maybe something was dirty in the solinoid idk
I don't understand why the irrigation system, especially the valves, are not placed on the surface inside a box. Nice job pal.
Thanks....replaced top potion of valve in 30 min. Paid $25 for the part.
Unfortunately I can’t find the valve with 4 screws any longer. The new version has 5 screws so replacing it will be a much bigger job (bottom and top).
Oh man. Yes that will get into a bigger job, but sometimes that is the only thing you can do. Good luck.
@@AmericanIrrigator after more digging, I realized I had a 3/4” valve but a 1” anti siphon. I found the 3/4” valve at the link below. With this part I was able to do exactly what this video instructed. Now everything’s working great again. I ended up replacing all the valves, not just the faulty one since I’m sure those will go soon too. Thanks!
www.lowes.com/pd/Hunter-1-in-Plastic-Electric-Inline-Irrigation-Valve/1000089001
Can someone please tell me why my top valve cover won’t screw in and seal properly. I have redone 10 times and it always sprays out from at least 2 screws. It’s a rain bird
Oh man. I hate that. A lot of time if it is not sealing and leaking the diaphragm is crooked or not in place or messed up. It could also mean that the base is messed up. If that is the case, you have to cut it out and replace the whole thing. There have been some cases were I have had to do that.
TU on info..the morons that installed mine used a tube style valve box, the smallest they could find I can't even turn on or off the solenoid. and I can't even find the third box. have ordered a tracker.
You didn’t connect the solenoid wires… Why not?
what about turning off the electricity.😊
Turning the controller to the off position is enough. You don't have to unplug it or turn anything else off. The wires on a conventional system will not have power to them unless the system is trying to run.
You didn’t show the wiring , that would have completed the video
Up
Not one commenter mentioned how stupid it is to open the master valve in dirty water. Allowing dirty water into the valve chamber sets the valve up for failure in the not too distant future. Would have been better to dig the mud and water out of the pit, then open the valve to replace the top.
Why didnt u replacw the whole thing?
Because if the base is still good and not causing any issues, then it is faster and cheaper to just replace the guts and top. And this usually solves any issues. But from time to time you run into a deal where you have to cut out the entire valve and replace the whole valve.
Cutting corners would make someone a better irrigator? You never stop surprising.
Use a damn drill next time bro!
That wiring ugh
Please use deutsch or some other water proof connectors. smh
Thanks for uploading this video.
Your welcome