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My understanding is, amps is the current of electricity, also current draw. It’s like flow when compared to water. In your case, something in that solenoid, or some other part of the system, could have been drawing more current than it should. I’ve heard it could also be the controller or even something with the power supply causing that to pulsate. But the solenoid is going to draw a certain amount of amps. One number to open the valve, inrush current, then one to hold it open, holding current or operating current. It can be tricky trying to figure out what was causing that. Hope this helps.

What do you mean ‘read amps’? Did you just replace the solenoid or the entire valve? I don’t check amps often, mostly ohms and volts. Pulsating is usually due to a dirty or old diaphragm.

Another good tip. Thank you. Yes, I usually start at the controller then go out to the problem solenoid and test there as well. Always good to get your expertise.

We usually don’t have any problems with concrete cracking or settling. Most of the time we are about a foot down for irrigation piping, but since this was just for a wire for landscape lighting we went closer to the bottom of the concrete. Being a small hole it should be ok. No extra backfill required.

why

Oh you would cut the sidewalk lol

lol thanks

It is ok. There is not much difference on pressure loss and flow through a 1” and 3/4”. It will work either way.

@@AmericanIrrigator Thank you. I may have to possibly replace my backflow. If I do, would you recommend using a 3/4 " valve instead of the 1"? Also, I have a y-strainer on it and I'm thinking of removing it since it is no longer required in Texas. Thoughts?

lol. You’re welcome

Great. I’m glad. You’re welcome

Usually if the valve doesn’t shut off there is debris in the valve. First try taking the valve apart and flushing it out. If it still doesn’t shut off, you may need to rebuild the valve.

It is better.

You’re welcome

This one is the SK1050. I love it. It really is a game changer.

Your Welcome and welcome to the biz. Good luck and holler at me if you have any questions.

Thank you. I appreciate it

It could be that a wire is cut somewhere between that valve and the controller. If it is spliced before that valve in another valve box that splice could be bad too. Make sure the valve does work manually.

lol. Yes. Go Tech.

Thanks for the info. That is very helpful. That makes sense because when I tested one yesterday at a house it was about 30 and it was good.

Thanks. I appreciate it. I did several of these videos testing different solenoids that are going to be rolling out. I hope they will be helpful to irrigators, technicians, and homeowners. I appreciate your comments and insights as always.

Just a few things I’ve learned from my dad and a few other good business men and women.

That’s what I heard the guys say from the Waterpro channel. Have you seen them?

Aw Jamaica. Been there once. Thanks for sharing.

You’re welcome

lol yeah that’s right

Yes it would have. 😂

The part that goes onto the meter will have to come from a municipal plumbing supply store. The other parts are available at an irrigation supply store.

Yes this happens with those type of hoses and when you leave a sprayer on the end of the hose.

You’re welcome

lol 👍🏻

My first guess is the shorting timer is somehow the culprit. First, connect the wire for the zone not working to the terminal for a zone that you know works at the timer and see if it comes on. If that does not work, check the ports under the solenoid to see if they are plugged using a wire or flag. There willl be ports in the bonnet and body. Usually there will be 2 or 4 ports to check. Not sure on that valve. If that does not work and you don’t have a diaphragm, it is often cheaper to buy the whole valve and just use the parts you need (I doubt the diaphragm is the problem anyway). Even if the diaphragm is cheaper, I would probably buy a new valve and replace everything possible (bonnet, diaphragm, solenoid and plunger, spring…)by unscrewing the bonnet if the two troubleshooting methods above do not work.

@@billw572 thank you for the reply! i did start by swapping the zones, and the problem zone did still not work, even on a known working terminal (and vice versa) . And just before your reply i did check the 2 solenoid ports for obstruction. No apparent restriction. I then removed the solenoid while the valve was “live” , covered the solenoid thread with my thumb assuming that would guarantee flow through the solenoid port and reduce pressure above the diaphragm and force the valve to open and still no sprinkler flow. The diaphragm is cheaper than a whole new valve so i guess my boss wants to start there. Wish me luck!

@@billw572 convinced the boss to order the whole valve 😉💪🏼

That’s what I was going to say. Rebuild the entire valve. Does the valve operate manually to rule out it being a water problem or problem in the valve separate from the electrical. If the valve turns on and off manually then there may not be a problem with the whole valve, maybe just the solenoid.

Good advice. @billw572

Me neither.

You're welcome!

It could be that the valve is not shutting off all the way. It could have debris in it. You could turn the valve manually on and off a few times to try and flush it out. Doing this you will also be able to hear if the valve shuts off or not. If it still is leaking by, then the next step is to take it apart and clean it out. It also could be the diaphragm in the valve. The next thing would be to rebuild the valve. Now if the valve is shutting off and the head still leaks, it could be that it is at the end of the line and just draining out the water in the lateral lines. If that’s the case, a head with a check valve in it will work. But I would check the valve first.

Yeah. Sometimes it is hard to tell. But if there is no back pressure or even back siphonage, it won’t spray out. But if you leave a sprayer on the end of the hose it should spray out once you turn the hose bib off.

Yes the DC latching solenoids are sold separately.