Going to reflect on my experience with the E-Tec Vapor separator/electric fuel pump unit..(And there inner design differs depending on E-tec outboard you own) and my issues with no fuel pressure. if you remove the top cover of the vapor separator (the top cover has a float that releases air and vapor if any gets trapped in the unit" there is a tubing coil inside that cold water runs through to cool the fuel. Thats the core purpose of the unit to supply cooled liquid fuel to the the "medium" pressure electric pump that then supply's vapor bubble free liquid fuel to injectors .. "fill the vapor separator full of liquid and blow pressured air through the water cooled coil you should not see any bubbles if you have them you have a leak in that coil and of cource it leak water into the fuel in the VST ." The core issue is the fuel pump which is removable has a very fine mesh screen over its inlet at the bottom in the rubber grommet seat which you can pull out and "check and clean it" and I find it totally plugged quite often with little tiny rubber and dissolved plastic particles from breaking down fuel lines thats often so badly pluged that the pump can barely get fuel flow at all. Where does this crud come from ? old deteriorating fuel line who's inner liners have been attacked by ethanol fuels, it then sends this gunk through the system and it all ends up in the bottom of Vapor separator in the fuel pump screen. The other thing that E-tec owners need to be aware of is there is "also" a spring loaded "fuel pressure regulator" on the outlet of the fuel pump that releases excess fuel pressure when the engine is idling , on its outlet in the base of the vapor separator is another fine mesh screen filter on the pressure regulator return line , if this small mesh filter gets plugged the excess fuel pressure will not flow back into the VST tank and the fuel pressure will climb up way to high ,, this excess presure will "also" causes all kinds of run-ability issues as this high fuel pressure being supplied to the injectors throws off the mixture calibration making it way too rich. th-cam.com/video/Qc7FrlcGVwg/w-d-xo.html , E-tecs also have an inline a fuel filter that must be replaced. The recommended interval is every 300-hours or three years for average recreational use. Its a low restriction filter and I have seen this gunk (dissolved plastic and rubber carryed in the Fuel) get past that fuel filter and into the VST plugging up these fine mesh filter a number of times ..
This is a fantastic video - going through a similar issue with a 2013 90. Same as you, previous owner said it ran good but when we got it home it didn’t run well and we found that one of the injectors was clogged. The etecs are vary hard to to conduct DIY injector cleaning. We sent the injectors off but now the engine coughs and dies. It’s very frustrating. I need to check the eem lights. Will be checking vst pressure next.
Emm's can be fixed normally, it's about 400,-. Also hp pump in vst can be bought separately nowadays, 130,-. Evinrude diagnostic sw is under 100,- and u can code the injectors yourself.
i have no spark on my e-tec 25hp tiller i have all 4 lights on when i pull start it but just no spark, all the electrical plugs look good and everything is clean, just no spark
You can, mostly everything is still available at least for now. They are pretty expensive though. Definitely not as easy to get as mercury or Yamaha though. Also, some shops won’t work on them.
I just purchased this motor in the 2005 model. The motor sat for a year or so. I started, and idle strong. On the water it quickly bogged down and stalled. Rinse and repeat until only running in neutral with choke lever up.
I did add Seafoam to the fuel. It ran a low throttle for a while. Currently only runs in idle with lever up. I'm not much of a mechanic but I may tinker with it.
I’d check all of your filters and inlets into the vst. The rubber lines break down over time and will shed particles eventually stopping up the filters and inlets. This is what happened to mine. Without adequate fuel flow it killed the pump due to heat. What you are describing seems like an increasingly bad lean condition. Id clean it out asap and not run it much until I figured it out. Let me know if you have any questions.
I may make some videos doing some small stuff to it being there’s not much information on them. Right now it’s running well, just waiting to get time to put it in the water.
@@ramenbuilt6411 I will be checking resistance on that and the capacitor, when i plug in with the software it shows the motor is outputting 24-26 volts on cranking. I thought this was supposed to be 55, but the manual says between 20-40 is normal, leaning towards capacitor being bad now, i will update you
You don't need to reprogram but you do need to make sure you put the injectors back on the same cylinder they came off of. You can't mix them around from one cylinder to another.
My 90hp ETEC loses power when you give it more than half throttle. It will start bogging down and go back and forth, revving up a little faster then backing off, kind of that yo-yo effect when giving it half to full throttle. It will idle fine and it will go 3k RPMs fine, anything beyond that and it will start revving up and down back and forth. Seems like a throttle issue, possibly fuel.
@@ramenbuilt6411 I was going to try that. It did get a new VST Fuel Reservoir & Pump last year as the old one was shot. I'm wondering if something happened to it. I noticed the airbox was cracked, but that shouldn't really effect it.
Going to reflect on my experience with the E-Tec Vapor separator/electric fuel pump unit..(And there inner design differs depending on E-tec outboard you own) and my issues with no fuel pressure. if you remove the top cover of the vapor separator (the top cover has a float that releases air and vapor if any gets trapped in the unit" there is a tubing coil inside that cold water runs through to cool the fuel. Thats the core purpose of the unit to supply cooled liquid fuel to the the "medium" pressure electric pump that then supply's vapor bubble free liquid fuel to injectors .. "fill the vapor separator full of liquid and blow pressured air through the water cooled coil you should not see any bubbles if you have them you have a leak in that coil and of cource it leak water into the fuel in the VST ." The core issue is the fuel pump which is removable has a very fine mesh screen over its inlet at the bottom in the rubber grommet seat which you can pull out and "check and clean it" and I find it totally plugged quite often with little tiny rubber and dissolved plastic particles from breaking down fuel lines thats often so badly pluged that the pump can barely get fuel flow at all. Where does this crud come from ? old deteriorating fuel line who's inner liners have been attacked by ethanol fuels, it then sends this gunk through the system and it all ends up in the bottom of Vapor separator in the fuel pump screen. The other thing that E-tec owners need to be aware of is there is "also" a spring loaded "fuel pressure regulator" on the outlet of the fuel pump that releases excess fuel pressure when the engine is idling , on its outlet in the base of the vapor separator is another fine mesh screen filter on the pressure regulator return line , if this small mesh filter gets plugged the excess fuel pressure will not flow back into the VST tank and the fuel pressure will climb up way to high ,, this excess presure will "also" causes all kinds of run-ability issues as this high fuel pressure being supplied to the injectors throws off the mixture calibration making it way too rich. th-cam.com/video/Qc7FrlcGVwg/w-d-xo.html , E-tecs also have an inline a fuel filter that must be replaced. The recommended interval is every 300-hours or three years for average recreational use. Its a low restriction filter and I have seen this gunk (dissolved plastic and rubber carryed in the Fuel) get past that fuel filter and into the VST plugging up these fine mesh filter a number of times ..
This is a fantastic video - going through a similar issue with a 2013 90. Same as you, previous owner said it ran good but when we got it home it didn’t run well and we found that one of the injectors was clogged. The etecs are vary hard to to conduct DIY injector cleaning. We sent the injectors off but now the engine coughs and dies. It’s very frustrating. I need to check the eem lights. Will be checking vst pressure next.
Emm's can be fixed normally, it's about 400,-. Also hp pump in vst can be bought separately nowadays, 130,-. Evinrude diagnostic sw is under 100,- and u can code the injectors yourself.
Not that one
I have this exact same problem... Thank you for this video.
Dude i never comment but what a great video! Thanks dude be blessed!
Thank you!
Thanks.
I know it's a taboo subject but some believe if you change an injector with another one of the same hp no need to reprogram
Thank you for this video. Good easy to follow information.
You mentioned it took a long time to get the fuel pumped in. How long?
About an hour.
The lights computer always is in red light? In case hace error code the lights flashing? You can explain me please 🙏
Mine is doing that exact same thing hopefully I can replace the vst and fix it
Good luck if you have any questions let me know!
i have no spark on my e-tec 25hp tiller i have all 4 lights on when i pull start it but just no spark, all the electrical plugs look good and everything is clean, just no spark
Thank you for sharing and very kind of you. Has helped me a lot.
Glad it helped!
Great information thanks👍🏻🇨🇦
Hello friend.. 30 hp etech gives code 94 error. Excess fuel pump current detection. Can you help me? Thank you
Did you change or program in the old injectors to the new EEM
I bought a matched set so I didn’t have to. If you change one or the other independently you would need a program.
Did you replace the fuel injectors?
Yes I replaced them with matched injectors to the emm I put in.
Can you still get parts for these pretty easily or harder to get? Thanks Kyle
Don’t get an evinrude. If you have one. Sell it.
You can, mostly everything is still available at least for now. They are pretty expensive though. Definitely not as easy to get as mercury or Yamaha though. Also, some shops won’t work on them.
I just purchased this motor in the 2005 model. The motor sat for a year or so. I started, and idle strong. On the water it quickly bogged down and stalled. Rinse and repeat until only running in neutral with choke lever up.
I did add Seafoam to the fuel. It ran a low throttle for a while. Currently only runs in idle with lever up. I'm not much of a mechanic but I may tinker with it.
I’d check all of your filters and inlets into the vst. The rubber lines break down over time and will shed particles eventually stopping up the filters and inlets. This is what happened to mine. Without adequate fuel flow it killed the pump due to heat. What you are describing seems like an increasingly bad lean condition. Id clean it out asap and not run it much until I figured it out. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@ramenbuilt6411 Thank you for your assistance. Greatly appreciated.
nice work
Thanks!
Any new videos on the e-tec?
I may make some videos doing some small stuff to it being there’s not much information on them. Right now it’s running well, just waiting to get time to put it in the water.
Not sure if you’ll see this, i have no spark but emm lights function as they should, emm also has no codes i believe, could this be a bad stator?
It could be. I’ve heard of people having issues with the stator on these. Best thing to do is get a volt meter and check resistance on it first.
@@ramenbuilt6411 I will be checking resistance on that and the capacitor, when i plug in with the software it shows the motor is outputting 24-26 volts on cranking. I thought this was supposed to be 55, but the manual says between 20-40 is normal, leaning towards capacitor being bad now, i will update you
thanks man
My lights didn’t come on near my EMM. I disconnected the battery for a minute or so and hooked it back up and it fired back up again.
I attempted that on mine but it was still completely dead.
If we clean the injectors do we have to reset the computer on it?
I could be wrong but I do not believe so. If you change them, you do have to recalibrate.
You don't need to reprogram but you do need to make sure you put the injectors back on the same cylinder they came off of. You can't mix them around from one cylinder to another.
I just put EMM on last year an it cost me 2600$.Are you close to Tennessee
Georgia
My 90hp ETEC loses power when you give it more than half throttle. It will start bogging down and go back and forth, revving up a little faster then backing off, kind of that yo-yo effect when giving it half to full throttle. It will idle fine and it will go 3k RPMs fine, anything beyond that and it will start revving up and down back and forth. Seems like a throttle issue, possibly fuel.
Have you tried doing any cleaning to the fuel system? Even just something like mercury quickleen at the least?
@@ramenbuilt6411 I was going to try that. It did get a new VST Fuel Reservoir & Pump last year as the old one was shot. I'm wondering if something happened to it. I noticed the airbox was cracked, but that shouldn't really effect it.
Just buy a Yammie
I know how to fix an Etec throw it out a buy a Yamaha problem solved!!