I did this with the i6 traiblazer. I bought to hex sockets, 1 for impacting the head bolt and the other to break it loose with a breaker bar. I would hit it a few times with the spare hex socket, grab the other hex socket to torque to loosen it and as soon as I heard a pop I would immediately stop, then i would get the spare socket and hit it a few more times, then repeat. I would repeat this process until they would loosen up by hand. I didnt break any of the bolts using this method from another video I found on another youtube video. Great video!
Thank you, I really appreciate it. I will have the next video up of me assembling the head after the machine shop up this week and then hopefully the install video up the following week.
For anyone who has encountered busted head bolts on these 3.5s from burnt exhaust valves. I used a left hand drill bit and as soon as it bit into the bolt it backed it right out!! All 4 came out with ease!! No more tension on them I guess!! Didn't need ez outs!!
This video is helping me out tremendously as I get ready to start doing the exact same activities on my 2005 Colorado 5-cylinder engine this weekend. Thanks for taking the extra time and effort to film your work while also explaining it too! One question though, is the cam lock tool needed any longer during disassembly once you have placed paint marks on the sprockets and timing chain links? Does it also help with holding the camshafts stationary while loosening the sprocket bolts?
Your welcome. One of two ways. 1) Do the entire job by the book and remove the oil pan and all of that stuff then just make sure the marks are lined up when putting the chain back on or 2) you can get a piece of metal solid square stock (preferably aluminum) roughly 1/2" thick and grind it to a point so you can stick it between the tensioner and block. I don't suggest method two as it can/will mess up something if not done correctly and safely. If you, and anyone reading this, decide to go that route just remember I have never done it that way nor would I ever. Just do which ever way you are doing it at your own risk. I suggest getting the tools and doing it that way. I know they are not cheap but I would rather spend the money on the tools now rather than destroy an engine and spend more that way. Hope this helps. Sorry it was so long by the way.
At 12:15…it is no where near that simple. I bought the tool, but the one to lock the flywheel won’t go in there for all the money in the world. It’s as if it will not clear the teeth. As if the Lange with the teeth is too thick or the radius is incorrect. It infuriates me to pay that much for a tool that’s hopefully single use and then have to take a file or grinder to it
Someone else I know purchased the tool as well and had an issue installing the flywheel holder. Let them use mine and it went right in. We compared them and the teeth were thicker than the one I had. It may be a design issue or a revision they need to focus on.
I think it was in the next video but let me look. In case I did not show it, I used reverse drill bits to remove them. They actually drill backwards and the rotational force actually pulled them out of the block.
For anyone who has encountered busted head bolts on these 3.5s from burnt exhaust valves. I used a left hand drill bit and as soon as it bit into the bolt it backed it right out!! All 4 came out with ease!! No more tension on them I guess!! Didn't need ez outs!!
You would need the tool or something to hold the chain and tensioner in place while you remove and re-install the head unless you do it the long way which calls for removing the oil pan and front timing cover completely. You could probably use something like a piece of wood or some kind of wedge. I know a lot of people do not want to purchase the tool and I understand that.
I broke loose the bolts on both camshaft sprockets (but didn’t remove them) prior to inserting the wedge tool or camshaft lock tool. Is this going to cause timing issues?
I did this with the i6 traiblazer. I bought to hex sockets, 1 for impacting the head bolt and the other to break it loose with a breaker bar. I would hit it a few times with the spare hex socket, grab the other hex socket to torque to loosen it and as soon as I heard a pop I would immediately stop, then i would get the spare socket and hit it a few more times, then repeat. I would repeat this process until they would loosen up by hand. I didnt break any of the bolts using this method from another video I found on another youtube video. Great video!
I have tried that on these before and it does seem to help. It does help minimize breakage but at least if they do break they tend to come out easy.
Best head removal video I've seen for the 3.5/3.7 I5. Great job!
Thank you, I really appreciate it. I will have the next video up of me assembling the head after the machine shop up this week and then hopefully the install video up the following week.
For anyone who has encountered busted head bolts on these 3.5s from burnt exhaust valves.
I used a left hand drill bit and as soon as it bit into the bolt it backed it right out!! All 4 came out with ease!! No more tension on them I guess!! Didn't need ez outs!!
That is what I used to get mine out as well. Like you said, once the tension is off of them they come out pretty easy.
Wow i want to try do this, you my friend make it look easy, the only thing i am concerned about the timing belt, very good video,
Just mark the timing chain and make sure everything lines back up. After that it is not so bad. The tools make it way easier as well
Thank you, sure i will do that, if i make a video i will post it hopefully everything goes well, maybe 3 weeks
This video is helping me out tremendously as I get ready to start doing the exact same activities on my 2005 Colorado 5-cylinder engine this weekend. Thanks for taking the extra time and effort to film your work while also explaining it too!
One question though, is the cam lock tool needed any longer during disassembly once you have placed paint marks on the sprockets and timing chain links? Does it also help with holding the camshafts stationary while loosening the sprocket bolts?
it is more of a guide and really does not need to be used but I would use it just to be safe.
Thank you for this video! If at all possible, How would I go about doing all of this without the timing tool set?
Your welcome. One of two ways. 1) Do the entire job by the book and remove the oil pan and all of that stuff then just make sure the marks are lined up when putting the chain back on or 2) you can get a piece of metal solid square stock (preferably aluminum) roughly 1/2" thick and grind it to a point so you can stick it between the tensioner and block. I don't suggest method two as it can/will mess up something if not done correctly and safely. If you, and anyone reading this, decide to go that route just remember I have never done it that way nor would I ever. Just do which ever way you are doing it at your own risk. I suggest getting the tools and doing it that way. I know they are not cheap but I would rather spend the money on the tools now rather than destroy an engine and spend more that way. Hope this helps. Sorry it was so long by the way.
At 12:15…it is no where near that simple. I bought the tool, but the one to lock the flywheel won’t go in there for all the money in the world. It’s as if it will not clear the teeth. As if the Lange with the teeth is too thick or the radius is incorrect. It infuriates me to pay that much for a tool that’s hopefully single use and then have to take a file or grinder to it
Someone else I know purchased the tool as well and had an issue installing the flywheel holder. Let them use mine and it went right in. We compared them and the teeth were thicker than the one I had. It may be a design issue or a revision they need to focus on.
Do you have a video showing how you removed broken head bolts?
I think it was in the next video but let me look. In case I did not show it, I used reverse drill bits to remove them. They actually drill backwards and the rotational force actually pulled them out of the block.
th-cam.com/video/BSJvNKxOTSU/w-d-xo.html I showed how I removed them on this video.
@@operationoverhaul Mahalo Nui Loa from the Island of Hawaii.
For anyone who has encountered busted head bolts on these 3.5s from burnt exhaust valves.
I used a left hand drill bit and as soon as it bit into the bolt it backed it right out!! All 4 came out with ease!! No more tension on them I guess!! Didn't need ez outs!!
If in only pulling the head to replace the gasket
do i need the that timing tool?
You would need the tool or something to hold the chain and tensioner in place while you remove and re-install the head unless you do it the long way which calls for removing the oil pan and front timing cover completely. You could probably use something like a piece of wood or some kind of wedge. I know a lot of people do not want to purchase the tool and I understand that.
@@operationoverhaul thanks for your help!
Good job.. makes it look very easy
Do I have to use the timing tool kit to remove my head?
Technically no, but you do run the risk of having the timing being off.
great job how much to fix mine?
I charged the customer around 1300 to do this job and that was not the cost of the machine shop and parts.
How did you rotate the engine to get it in time?😊
I used the crank bolt to rotate it.
I broke loose the bolts on both camshaft sprockets (but didn’t remove them) prior to inserting the wedge tool or camshaft lock tool. Is this going to cause timing issues?
No this will not cause any issue as long at you did not remove them completely.
Luckily, I didn’t totally remove the bolt. Thanks for the info!
For $200 plus shipping I'll just pull the pan, cover and timing. Overpriced in my opinion. Good video!
These don't have timing covers
What direction should I turn the head bolts 10 mm? Is it clockwise or counterclockwise
To remove them, you turn them counter clockwise.
chevy head bolts always wanting to break
Especially on the atlas style engines. Everytime I do a head on one of them at least one snaps.