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Thanks, I'll try to make more videos like this in the future! Let me know if there's anything specific you'd like to see!

No problem at all, let me know if there is anything else you need help with.

I appreciate that. If you need any help while you are doing the repair feel free to contact me in case I forgot to put something in the video that you may need.

@ I really do appreciate it! I’m doing this truck without the fender and front end on it just to make a little easier on me. Also doing a CP3 like you did with lift pump.

I am right there with you on that. I mean they could have made it so much easier to do. Honda did it this way back in the 90's too

That o-ring goes onto your hose that threads into the new rack. It should have came with two o-rings actually because both hoses should have them on the ends of the hose.

Sure, what are you needing help with? If you are needing any diagrams or work instructions I can send them to you via instagram or email.

If done properly, it should be running good with no issues. I will say that some of these will have the timing marks off and cause a crank/cam correlation code and they need to be like one or two teeth off of top dead center. Before removing anything, I would line up the crankshaft mark and see where the camshaft timing marks fall in relationship to one another.

You are looking at about 1200 in parts and that includes all the chains, tensioners, gaskets, etc. I appreciate the comment. It really is not to bad if you just take your time and double check everything.

I agree. Plus, this truck sits under a tree most of the time as well. So that is a good possibility.

I used lint free rags and brake cleaner to clean the pan.

@@operationoverhaul Ah, okay. I am going to do the same thing on my project. I'm actually gonna be taking down a 1997 ford escort transmission. Not sure when the last time this guy changed the fluid but i'm gonna do my best to get her from leaking at the gasket. I appreciate the quick feedback.

@Quartered_Rodent your welcome and if you need any specs just contact me and I can get you anything you may need

No I did not change the transfer case fluid. It is a separate fluid from the transmission and you do not have to drain that before hand.

If I remember correctly it was roughly 5-600 dollars. That was grinding the valves, replacing number 5 valves, cleaning the head, pressure testing, and checking for any cracks.

@@operationoverhaul Thanks for such a quick response. I think I'm going to take this on this spring.

@enclosingsilence6011 if you do, feel free to contact me if you need anything that I may have forgotten

You are welcome and hopefully your axle comes out a lot easier than mine did.

Once the bolt is off, you literally just pull it and it will slide off. These are not a press on or off balancer. If you are having issues getting your balancer off, it may have rust on it and that may what is causing it to stick on there.

If you need any specs while you are doing it, feel free to contact me and I will try to help out as much as I can.

No problem at all! Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.

I was thinking the same thing as far as the fluid. I would have thought that the CVT fluid that they use would be the preferred fluid but they sent me that. I normally do crack the fill plugs first but I did not think about it until the end. If it would not have came off, I would have welded a nut/bolt/cheap allen socket to it though lol.

What are you referring to when you say sst? I want to make sure I am on the same page as you just so I do not give you the wrong thing lol.

That is the washer/spacer/and isolator for noise on the strut. If you could find another one (I would look at a junkyard) then I would replace it if you can do so.

I have never tried to replace it without taking the fuel pump off. It would be worth a shot to try it and see. Then if you cannot do it with the fuel pump still attached, then it would not be much of a problem to remove it.

Are you referring to the piece that goes around the inner tie rod?

When you get the one from amazon, you would be getting a completely rebuilt head versus using some parts that will be used. Plus, the camshafts on the amazon head are normally new or reground to ensure they are in good shape.

No they are pressed onto the axle shaft along with the backing plates, seals, and some other parts on that area. They are not inside the housing like a lot of other cars. These are just like toyota truck axle bearings. It requires a special tool to remove them and they are considered to be one of the most dangerous style wheel bearings to remove.

I use prodemand which is a labor guide, wiring diagrams, and work instructions with torque specs. You have to pay for it which is about 200 dollars a month for the basic plan.

​@@operationoverhaul thanks for responding! ok awesome just checking i have access to alldata through my job but sometimes it doesn't have torque specs.

@@colbimitchell You are welcome and if you ever need any torque specs that you cannot find feel free to contact me and I will try to help you as much as I can.

Thank you and I believe it is a m14x2.0 thread but I cannot remember right off the top of my head. I do know that the tow hook from an E90 BMW will thread right into the hole.

You flush it from the top or you can disconnect a hose and let it cycle through the entire system until the new fluid comes out.

Technically no, but you do run the risk of having the timing being off.

Other than replacing it, there is not much you can do. I would just suggest that you get a decent quality strut to try and avoid this happening again.

@operationoverhaul thanks for replying. If my funds are a little low could I just replace the top mount?

@@widowmaker4097 yeah you could do that but still I would get a good quality if possible.

That is a good point. I did not even think about it doing that.

I jacked the car up on the lift point along the pinch weld but I put a jack stand on the lower control arm bushing just in case the jack failed.

@ Hey m8 i’m doing springs on the same car and your video has been perfect could you give me the torque specs for the rear?

@exohamster2658 sure thing. I'll look them up tomorrow for you

@@operationoverhaulThank you so much

@@operationoverhaulalso if you don’t mind clarifying for me real quick when you mention the torque specs, the bolt down below that’s 70 ft lbs is this bolt at 6:51?

It is a 2008.

That is the engine mounting bracket.

You are welcome and I appreciate the share as well. If you have anything else that you may need help with feel free to contact me.

The optispark controls a lot of stuff on these engines and they will make them go crazy if it does not receive the right signals or it fails and does not send the correct spark.

Sorry I just answered it for you. I have been out of town with family

If you do it exactly like in my video it will keep the mileage. You are basically keeping everything and just replacing the screen. This way you keep the mileage of the vehicle.

Have you tried a punch with it?

Sorry about not mentioning that, I should have done that before I started.

Este es solo uno de los pasos que la TSB recomienda seguir. Existen varios pasos más en la TSB.

Does it do it cold?

@@operationoverhaul No it doesnt

I would try a thicker oil and see if it helps. If it does not, then it may need a tensioner and chains.

@@operationoverhaul okay, and it is safe to drive for now ?

@LostFounder can you send me a video via email or Instagram so I could hear what it sounds like?

It is easy to do with this. It is basically just plastic and it is a shame that they made them this way.

You wanting parts and labor cost?

@@operationoverhaul tbh man I dropped a socket inside there and I basically wanted to know the easiest or fastest way to get it out ?

@@thegreatestkid1295 you dropped it in the timing cover?

@@operationoverhaul pass that it’s basically fell down I can’t even see it I took the time cover off and I still couldn’t see it

@thegreatestkid1295 so into the oil pan basically. My best suggestion would be to get the longest magnet you can find and try and fish it out. If that does not work then drain the oil and try running the magnet through the drain plug and see if it is in there. The last resort, but best option, is oil pan removal.

I like that idea of the earth magnets because they are super strong and will grab onto all of the debris. Plus the idea of letting it sit after draining is a good idea. It will always have run off and that will allow it to be caught back in the pan. Good tips.

I think the total were around 6-700 dollars in parts.

Most of the time they are good but the customer preferred that I change. As long as it does not leak is all that matters.

It is possible but for the price of the part it would be worth it.

@operationoverhaul I thank you

@@operationoverhaulpurge valve is like 60 $