Hi Great instructions- I didnt buy the ferrum cam chain tool and I think I have the problem that the cam chain tensioner has let go so now I try and put the cam cogs on and its too tight to get it to align on the bolt holes - any suggestions on releasing the cam chain tensioner without pulling off the cam cover? its the 4x4!
The only thing I could think of would be to wedge something down into the engine and spread the tensioner back so it give you the slack you need. That would be the only thing I can think of. I know the tool is expensive but I could get you the dimensions of it so you may be able to find something to wedge in there.
@@operationoverhaul I really appreciate your reply but I think the cam tensioner has a ratchet mechanism so you have to release the ratchet before you can push it back in! looks like I am dropping the trans and oil pan to get the cam cover off!
@richardgodwin5531 they will retract and the tool I used in the video is what does that. It pushed the tensioner in so it keeps the chain from moving and holds the timing chain where it originally was.
Hi Cory. It’s great to see someone being so thorough and taking pride in their work. Thanks for another excellent tutorial video on the Colorado! I have a few questions please: 1.) Is it right before you rotate through the five combustion cycles that you remove all three of the Ferrum tools? 2.) Is it the turning of the crankshaft through the five combustion cycles that caused the timing chain to become tighter due to the tensioner? 3.) With the intake manifold bolts being so hard to reach, how can you accurately torque them to specs (especially since universal joints or wobble sockets are required)? Thanks!
1) Yes, I would leave them in until you are ready to rotate the engine through the cycles. 2) That is correct, once you rotate the engine over, the tensioner starts applying tension on the chain. 3) I normally up the torque specs a few ft lbs to take place of the extensions and swivels.
Is there anyway I can send u a email? I just did this same thing to my truck and everytime I get it turned over the 5 cycles the timing marks are off one tooth. Do u have any suggestions? Could I just put it at top dead center and line the cams up and call it good?
@jorgeibarra596 I personally do not and I have never had an issue with no sealant on head gaskets but I know people who put it on ever one they do. The only time I use any kind of sealant is when any bolt goes into a water jacket then I will use a teflon sealant but nothing on the gaskets themselves.
Cory, does rotating the crankshaft through a few cycles also serve to prime the lifters with oil? Did you add oil inside the valve cover through the fill hole or did you just rely on the assembly lube for the various components (valve springs, camshafts, lifters, etc.) before cranking the engine for the first time after the install?
No, it will not prime the lifters or feed oil to the camshaft by rotating it by hand and the assembly lube will be good just to rotate it that few times by hand. Before starting the truck, I remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine over about 10 times to get oil to the lifters and head. Then afterwards, re-install the relay and start the engine and let it run.
@@operationoverhaul Do you use any kind of break-in oil (or no detergent oil) for the first few hundred miles, or do you use an additive to the standard 5w-30 before cranking?
@user-gg1ml2qm3e if it is new cams, valves, spring, and/or new head I will use a break in oil but if everything is the old parts then just an additive.
@@operationoverhaul I bought the head (complete with camshafts, hydraulic lifters, springs, etc.) from AutoZone (but they got it from NuTech). I suspect it's remanufactured having new parts only where they deemed necessary. Should I go with the additive in this case?
Thanks for the video very good setup on explaining everything, I have the same situation 😅 and gotta replace the gasket
If you need anything while doing it feel free to ask
Hi Great instructions- I didnt buy the ferrum cam chain tool and I think I have the problem that the cam chain tensioner has let go so now I try and put the cam cogs on and its too tight to get it to align on the bolt holes - any suggestions on releasing the cam chain tensioner without pulling off the cam cover? its the 4x4!
The only thing I could think of would be to wedge something down into the engine and spread the tensioner back so it give you the slack you need. That would be the only thing I can think of. I know the tool is expensive but I could get you the dimensions of it so you may be able to find something to wedge in there.
@@operationoverhaul I really appreciate your reply but I think the cam tensioner has a ratchet mechanism so you have to release the ratchet before you can push it back in! looks like I am dropping the trans and oil pan to get the cam cover off!
@richardgodwin5531 they will retract and the tool I used in the video is what does that. It pushed the tensioner in so it keeps the chain from moving and holds the timing chain where it originally was.
I can't find the tool to remove the screws where they are.
Which screws are you referring to?
Hi Cory. It’s great to see someone being so thorough and taking pride in their work. Thanks for another excellent tutorial video on the Colorado!
I have a few questions please:
1.) Is it right before you rotate through the five combustion cycles that you remove all three of the Ferrum tools?
2.) Is it the turning of the crankshaft through the five combustion cycles that caused the timing chain to become tighter due to the tensioner?
3.) With the intake manifold bolts being so hard to reach, how can you accurately torque them to specs (especially since universal joints or wobble sockets are required)?
Thanks!
1) Yes, I would leave them in until you are ready to rotate the engine through the cycles.
2) That is correct, once you rotate the engine over, the tensioner starts applying tension on the chain.
3) I normally up the torque specs a few ft lbs to take place of the extensions and swivels.
Great, thanks!
Is there anyway I can send u a email? I just did this same thing to my truck and everytime I get it turned over the 5 cycles the timing marks are off one tooth. Do u have any suggestions? Could I just put it at top dead center and line the cams up and call it good?
do you have instagram?
Yes I do
@@JasonSmith-cd1hm if you want to send me a message there you can do that and you can send me some pictures as well
Thanks for yours videos is to helpful for me...
Your welcome. If you need any other specs let me know. I can get you whatever you may need.
I have question friend... do you use some seal on the headgasket
@jorgeibarra596 I personally do not and I have never had an issue with no sealant on head gaskets but I know people who put it on ever one they do. The only time I use any kind of sealant is when any bolt goes into a water jacket then I will use a teflon sealant but nothing on the gaskets themselves.
Thanks again... I have the same problem with my gmc canyon and your videos are of the to much help for me
@@jorgeibarra596 your welcome and anything else you want to know just let me know
Silly question, but how do you time the cam?
It has timing marks on the cam gears and on the back of the cams they have a flat spot on them that should be parallel to the head.
@@operationoverhaul how do you turn them, just by hand?
Where are the instructions that you are using?
I got them off of prodemand.com I can email you the instructions if you want.
Cory, does rotating the crankshaft through a few cycles also serve to prime the lifters with oil? Did you add oil inside the valve cover through the fill hole or did you just rely on the assembly lube for the various components (valve springs, camshafts, lifters, etc.) before cranking the engine for the first time after the install?
No, it will not prime the lifters or feed oil to the camshaft by rotating it by hand and the assembly lube will be good just to rotate it that few times by hand. Before starting the truck, I remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine over about 10 times to get oil to the lifters and head. Then afterwards, re-install the relay and start the engine and let it run.
@@operationoverhaul Do you use any kind of break-in oil (or no detergent oil) for the first few hundred miles, or do you use an additive to the standard 5w-30 before cranking?
@user-gg1ml2qm3e if it is new cams, valves, spring, and/or new head I will use a break in oil but if everything is the old parts then just an additive.
@@operationoverhaul I bought the head (complete with camshafts, hydraulic lifters, springs, etc.) from AutoZone (but they got it from NuTech). I suspect it's remanufactured having new parts only where they deemed necessary. Should I go with the additive in this case?
@user-gg1ml2qm3e yeah I would do the additive