Just wanted to thank you for posting this video, I used it for reference when installing my Trail Forged steering today. The steering install went pretty easy, besides drilling the Pitman arm which ate up 3 drill bits and a bottle of cutting oil. I used your alinement method which worked great, drives straight down the road but I'm still going to get it aligned at my local off road shop. Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks for the video I just ordered mine for my xj and have been nervous about getting it installed but you made it detailed and easy looking enough for me to have more confidence in my install
Very informative and great video!! I just recently installed the 4-inch rough country lift with 35 Nitto's on my 2003 Jeep TJ Rubicon I've owned for almost 20 years now. Also, I have the coil spring correction plates which give me about 5 inches of lift total. With the lift, I also have experienced increased wandering and sway, especially at highway speeds: 60-75MPH. Let me put it this way--I would never let my daughters learn to drive this Jeep on the highway when they turn 16 because I feel it is too dangerous and swirly for the inexperienced (wind, 18 wheelers, follows ruts, inadvertent over-correction causing uncomfortable sway). That's not the way late-model Jeeps should drive--lifted or not. While I already have heavy duty adjustable front & rear track bars & steering stabilizer, some folks have asked me to upgrade steering components to combat the excessive sway & wandering. I swapped to a dropped pitman arm (for 4-inch lifts) when installing the lift and some have said "no-no--go back to stock." I'm thinking of doing it before I spend the money on a new steering setup just because it is way cheaper. I notice you have what look likes 4-inch lift and 35's but seems to be your stock pitman arm--can you confirm? How is that set-up working for you? Did you experience any of the negative side effects before and/or after your heavy-duty steering set-up? I am working with tire pressure now and then will have it aligned in a few weeks. Alignment is probably a little off after the install but not too bad. Big Decision--trying to decide whether to go back to stock pitman arm before I have the alignment accomplished. Anyway--sorry for long read. Just trying to get my TJ back to better ride when I had Daystar 2.5 spacer lift with 33's. It drove considerably better and safer with that lift. MY FIX (in order)--dropping tire pressure from 35 to 28, stock pitman arm re-install (if 4x4 shop recommends), alignment and then heavy-duty steering setup if all else fells. Jeep has only 46,000 mile on it over 20 years all ball joints and tire rod ends are good and likely not the problem. Please elaborate. Cheers--Dave
You have to dial in your castor/ angle of your pinion. Your caror at the top of the upper ball joint should be 6-7 degrees positive. Then adjust toe in or out or what ever you perfer
I love all the Trailforged parts on my WJ! Hope you like yours driving it 💪 I recommend adding blue lock tight to the locknuts I had 2 keep getting loose but lock tight fixed it
Totally agree I think this kit is pretty rad! And yeah blue locktite as soon as I get some , including the next time it comes off , to paint all the holes I drilled out to prevent rust! Thanks for watching buddy! 🍻
Hey AETM, your TJ videos have been instrumental in helping me build my 03 TJ Rubicon into an overlander--thanks!! How do you like your Trail Forged HD steering? Did it noticeably improve your highway/offroad manners? How has it held up since installing? Please let me know. I'm looking to upgrade my steering soon. Was considering Rough Country, Currie CorrectLync, and now Trail Forged!!
That’s awesome always glad to help out. I love the trail forge X steering it’s stout. But I have that on my offroad build, my green tj overlander has the heavy duty ylink setup that goes on a ZJ . That has been great to. If your not lifting higher than 4.5” plus you may want to consider the Currie lync especially if it’s a daily. If you like doing your own self alignment then the crossover steering is the simplest form of diy alignment and it’s strong as well, but the heims can become a bit squeaky overtime, because they are non greaseable unlike traditional tie rods and ball joints. I use dry lube on the heims and that keeps them quite. 🍻
I ended up buying this kit, one question tho, what size are your wheels? I am currently running 15s and curious if they will make contact with the hardware on the knuckles
Nice , stock 15s yes they will rub. Any 15” wheel or larger with a backspace numerically less than 3.75. I’m unaware of 4” but people say it’s close and works. I didn’t say that 😅🍻
These are the wheels I had, now they are on the green tj. they have a 3.75” backspace www.amazon.com/dp/B07K68KMP7/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_7TB9T3Z0ZJ082WCGAJJS?linkCode=ml2&tag=atemoffroad-20
@@ATEMOFFROAD thanks for the reply, I currently have similar wheels like that which came with the Jeep. Pretty much if they fit as is that’s cool if not I’ll just buy wheels and tires and keep this set as my backups. Once again thanks for the info. Also I have found trail forged to have pretty bad communication so far and kinda taking a while to build this. I ordered it on the 15th and still haven’t received it. However I am staying optimistic because the kit looks pretty heavy duty
It’s a major upgrade to the stock steering and totally stable , my advice is if your jeep vehicle is stock keep the stock steering. If its lifted for off-road then this will be better, stronger , easy setup and alignment.
I see this Jeep has a short arm lift kit. I’m curious how does it ride on the highway specifically over big bumps? On the fence between a short arm and long arm kit. I am looking to get the best ride quality I can because I plan of driving very far with my Jeep
Watch my XJ short arm install video, it’s all about set up. Buy the long arm if you have the money! Of course, but you better not skimp on clocking the Cs up front. It’s the only real way to correct caster, and return jeeps steering back to factory. I’ve been in jeeps that have long arm sus and they are darty as hell on the highway. Bump steer for days……..The only real way to fix this is to upgrade the ylink steering and clock the Cs that’s if you’re going above 4” on tj or 4.5 on an xj for best ride quality that is.
I like my Dual rate springs and short arms , I have zero issues with them. But the ride quality in the xj is better. Long arms will help reduce the transfer of shock energy from the road that travels through the tires and up into the frame and steering and eventually your seat.
@@ATEMOFFROAD awesome thanks for your feedback. The only part that has me second guessing the long arm kit is cutting off the factory lower control arm brackets but I see it may be worth it.
Okay so I have an update I ended up buying a 4” touch country lift with adjustable control arms and the V2 monotone shocks. I’m hoping that it will ride good but now I’m planning the steering upgrades
Yeah I burnt a drill and a reamer bit. So I bought a new pitman arm and I'm in the process of cutting the old one off. That thing is really on there. Oh and I broke a puller!
@@metwono all still good, I keep the heims lubed with dry lube in a spray can. just finishing up on a new video I’m about to publish here soon re setting this up on my new Dana 30 high pinion axle we just finished building up in the channel. Hoping to have that video out this Sunday. 🍻🍻
Yes no suspension lift is meant to be On road. Even in a perfect suspension you might still get a little bump steer, because of the axles arc in motion and the way the suspension cycles. Ideally you want both links completely parallel to the ground. it’s only then greatly reduced if the axle is centered after a lift kit is installed. I personally like to see a combination of frame drop and axle lift at the track bar link mounting locations. that way it’s more parallel to the ground and you don’t sacrifice clearances and suspension up/down travel offroad (slow moving). But then how do you make the drag link parallel to that when the steering box is also on the frame and the knuckle is even further away.? Full Hydro? Think about how far the pitman arm would have to drop or how high you would need to raise the knuckle mount so that the drag link is parallel? It’s not going to be. so we slant the drag link to the knuckle and closely try to replicate that with the Trackbar link. That way the arcs match and is wider with less of a bump steer effect. As long as you keep the track and drag link in the same arc it will greatly reduce this effect. Otherwise there is no such thing as perfect on a 4 link offroad lift suspension. My track bar is designed to be within the same Arc without major modifications to the frame and axle mounts. 🍻
@@jammerlupardi8782 agreed, I won’t deny that set up IS better, but here’s my thoughts: i feel the Overall cost is a No for me. That kind of money can be well spent on other mods for jeeps under 4” of lift and Lifts under 4.5" may require extended bumpstops to prevent track bar from contacting the diff cover. So that’s not convincing an LCG builder. why not just long arm 3 link with that money? No track bar needed.🤷♂️ all that for an almost perfect steering setup that is still not perfect because the jeeps lift height which doesn’t make the drag link parallel to the ground even with a low hanging pitman arm.
@@ATEMOFFROAD your tJ is clean, did you do all the upgrades (lift, suspension etc) yourself? I have 2 that are clean but not upgraded. I plan on making my 97 a crawler because it’s a squirrel cage (2.4) but I’m actively researching lifts and suspension upgrades for my 05 Rubicon.
Curious. Your previous setup before this when you were turning right did you have any issue with the drags link where it connects at the tie rod hitting the sway bar mount on the right side ? It doesn’t really prevent it from going much further than it could be it does stop it premature for me…
Good video. My project in 2022 will be 3.5” lift and a HD steering upgrade. I’ll also need to replace my stock wheels and tires. What wheel and tire set up do you have and what backspace & offset specs are you running to avoid rubbing.
That’s awesome, always cool to hear about new jeep builds , these wheels are 15x8 with a 3.5 “ backspace. I would recommend anything numerically less if you go anything larger than 31” tires. With 31” I can completely turn around full lock no rubbing. I have 32” tries with the same wheels and they do rub during full lock. I’m sure if I found wheels with a 2.5 or 2” backspace I’d be well in the clear for up to 33” tires without the need of additional wheel spacers, depends on what tires you are planning on using? Just remember that if you plan to do the rubicon 35” or larger is required to do it with the jeep jamboree team, but definitely doable with 31” tires! Thanks for watching 🍻
It’s been great , going to get it offroad very soon, it definitely tightened up the steering and solved a few other issues but so far I like it on and offroad!
I think you would have to relocate your sway bar links and then it could be done , but the linkage mounts on the axle are in the way! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@autotek7930 sounds like you looked it up , I thought there was clearance issues, but now you say I recall that was for the straight tie rod and not the one with the bends, there were two options at the time I was deciding to build or buy the kit.
@@ATEMOFFROAD I ordered the kit myself so yes I read everything I could lol. I might not anyway. Depending on how much leverage it's gonna put on the Knuckle arm be being stacked that high
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Just wanted to thank you for posting this video, I used it for reference when installing my Trail Forged steering today. The steering install went pretty easy, besides drilling the Pitman arm which ate up 3 drill bits and a bottle of cutting oil. I used your alinement method which worked great, drives straight down the road but I'm still going to get it aligned at my local off road shop. Thanks again for the great video.
Awesome glad it all worked out for you. Thank you for watching 🍻
Thanks for the video I just ordered mine for my xj and have been nervous about getting it installed but you made it detailed and easy looking enough for me to have more confidence in my install
Very informative and great video!! I just recently installed the 4-inch rough country lift with 35 Nitto's on my 2003 Jeep TJ Rubicon I've owned for almost 20 years now. Also, I have the coil spring correction plates which give me about 5 inches of lift total. With the lift, I also have experienced increased wandering and sway, especially at highway speeds: 60-75MPH. Let me put it this way--I would never let my daughters learn to drive this Jeep on the highway when they turn 16 because I feel it is too dangerous and swirly for the inexperienced (wind, 18 wheelers, follows ruts, inadvertent over-correction causing uncomfortable sway). That's not the way late-model Jeeps should drive--lifted or not. While I already have heavy duty adjustable front & rear track bars & steering stabilizer, some folks have asked me to upgrade steering components to combat the excessive sway & wandering. I swapped to a dropped pitman arm (for 4-inch lifts) when installing the lift and some have said "no-no--go back to stock." I'm thinking of doing it before I spend the money on a new steering setup just because it is way cheaper. I notice you have what look likes 4-inch lift and 35's but seems to be your stock pitman arm--can you confirm? How is that set-up working for you? Did you experience any of the negative side effects before and/or after your heavy-duty steering set-up? I am working with tire pressure now and then will have it aligned in a few weeks. Alignment is probably a little off after the install but not too bad. Big Decision--trying to decide whether to go back to stock pitman arm before I have the alignment accomplished. Anyway--sorry for long read. Just trying to get my TJ back to better ride when I had Daystar 2.5 spacer lift with 33's. It drove considerably better and safer with that lift. MY FIX (in order)--dropping tire pressure from 35 to 28, stock pitman arm re-install (if 4x4 shop recommends), alignment and then heavy-duty steering setup if all else fells. Jeep has only 46,000 mile on it over 20 years all ball joints and tire rod ends are good and likely not the problem. Please elaborate. Cheers--Dave
You have to dial in your castor/ angle of your pinion. Your caror at the top of the upper ball joint should be 6-7 degrees positive. Then adjust toe in or out or what ever you perfer
I love all the Trailforged parts on my WJ! Hope you like yours driving it 💪 I recommend adding blue lock tight to the locknuts I had 2 keep getting loose but lock tight fixed it
Totally agree I think this kit is pretty rad! And yeah blue locktite as soon as I get some , including the next time it comes off , to paint all the holes I drilled out to prevent rust! Thanks for watching buddy! 🍻
dude perfect install. thanks for the video
I just came across your video. I just ordered this same steering kit. It's going on my 98 XJ but this video helped me anyways.
Oh nice , I just picked up an 87 I’ll be working on! Thanks for watching 🍻
I've got a zj with a long arm lift and the crossover kit thanks for the info 👍
Thank for watching 🍻
Hey AETM, your TJ videos have been instrumental in helping me build my 03 TJ Rubicon into an overlander--thanks!! How do you like your Trail Forged HD steering? Did it noticeably improve your highway/offroad manners? How has it held up since installing? Please let me know. I'm looking to upgrade my steering soon. Was considering Rough Country, Currie CorrectLync, and now Trail Forged!!
That’s awesome always glad to help out. I love the trail forge X steering it’s stout. But I have that on my offroad build, my green tj overlander has the heavy duty ylink setup that goes on a ZJ . That has been great to. If your not lifting higher than 4.5” plus you may want to consider the Currie lync especially if it’s a daily. If you like doing your own self alignment then the crossover steering is the simplest form of diy alignment and it’s strong as well, but the heims can become a bit squeaky overtime, because they are non greaseable unlike traditional tie rods and ball joints. I use dry lube on the heims and that keeps them quite. 🍻
I ended up buying this kit, one question tho, what size are your wheels? I am currently running 15s and curious if they will make contact with the hardware on the knuckles
Nice , stock 15s yes they will rub. Any 15” wheel or larger with a backspace numerically less than 3.75. I’m unaware of 4” but people say it’s close and works. I didn’t say that 😅🍻
These are the wheels I had, now they are on the green tj. they have a 3.75” backspace www.amazon.com/dp/B07K68KMP7/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_7TB9T3Z0ZJ082WCGAJJS?linkCode=ml2&tag=atemoffroad-20
@@ATEMOFFROAD thanks for the reply, I currently have similar wheels like that which came with the Jeep. Pretty much if they fit as is that’s cool if not I’ll just buy wheels and tires and keep this set as my backups. Once again thanks for the info. Also I have found trail forged to have pretty bad communication so far and kinda taking a while to build this. I ordered it on the 15th and still haven’t received it. However I am staying optimistic because the kit looks pretty heavy duty
Did this change the way your steering feels compared to stock? Like increased dead spot or unstable steering on highway?
It’s a major upgrade to the stock steering and totally stable , my advice is if your jeep vehicle is stock keep the stock steering. If its lifted for off-road then this will be better, stronger , easy setup and alignment.
I see this Jeep has a short arm lift kit. I’m curious how does it ride on the highway specifically over big bumps? On the fence between a short arm and long arm kit. I am looking to get the best ride quality I can because I plan of driving very far with my Jeep
Watch my XJ short arm install video, it’s all about set up. Buy the long arm if you have the money! Of course, but you better not skimp on clocking the Cs up front. It’s the only real way to correct caster, and return jeeps steering back to factory. I’ve been in jeeps that have long arm sus and they are darty as hell on the highway. Bump steer for days……..The only real way to fix this is to upgrade the ylink steering and clock the Cs that’s if you’re going above 4” on tj or 4.5 on an xj for best ride quality that is.
I like my Dual rate springs and short arms , I have zero issues with them. But the ride quality in the xj is better. Long arms will help reduce the transfer of shock energy from the road that travels through the tires and up into the frame and steering and eventually your seat.
@@ATEMOFFROAD awesome thanks for your feedback. The only part that has me second guessing the long arm kit is cutting off the factory lower control arm brackets but I see it may be worth it.
Okay so I have an update I ended up buying a 4” touch country lift with adjustable control arms and the V2 monotone shocks. I’m hoping that it will ride good but now I’m planning the steering upgrades
How can order this parts.i need those for my tj great video.
How did you get that pitman arm to drill out that easy? I could not get mine to go halfway through!
A good bit of cutting oil and a sharp bit. You can probably get away with sharpening your bit if it’s dull. I do it all the time.
Yeah I burnt a drill and a reamer bit. So I bought a new pitman arm and I'm in the process of cutting the old one off. That thing is really on there. Oh and I broke a puller!
I would like see some pics of your steering stabilizer set up
Recent video has about 5 seconds of footage of that stabilizer. Thanks for watching 🍻
And when you make sure your axle is straight, I’m sure you’re making sure the chassis is also level?
Máster en explicaciones técnicas , adelante! Felicitaciones 🍀
What about sway bar? Any interference? It looks like your driver side is disconnected?
@@metwono no interference with sway bar links, I have it disconnected in the photo to flex in the rocks
@@ATEMOFFROAD great! How’s everything holding up a year or so in?
@@metwono all still good, I keep the heims lubed with dry lube in a spray can. just finishing up on a new video I’m about to publish here soon re setting this up on my new Dana 30 high pinion axle we just finished building up in the channel. Hoping to have that video out this Sunday. 🍻🍻
Buen día…. Ventas México?☘️🍀
My jeep walks a little bit on the road when going 70 plus MPH. Do you think this would help with that? Thanks
What some people don't understand the drag link and track bar have to be parallel to each other no matter what upgrade you buy !!!!
Yes no suspension lift is meant to be On road. Even in a perfect suspension you might still get a little bump steer, because of the axles arc in motion and the way the suspension cycles. Ideally you want both links completely parallel to the ground. it’s only then greatly reduced if the axle is centered after a lift kit is installed. I personally like to see a combination of frame drop and axle lift at the track bar link mounting locations. that way it’s more parallel to the ground and you don’t sacrifice clearances and suspension up/down travel offroad (slow moving). But then how do you make the drag link parallel to that when the steering box is also on the frame and the knuckle is even further away.? Full Hydro? Think about how far the pitman arm would have to drop or how high you would need to raise the knuckle mount so that the drag link is parallel? It’s not going to be. so we slant the drag link to the knuckle and closely try to replicate that with the Trackbar link. That way the arcs match and is wider with less of a bump steer effect. As long as you keep the track and drag link in the same arc it will greatly reduce this effect. Otherwise there is no such thing as perfect on a 4 link offroad lift suspension. My track bar is designed to be within the same Arc without major modifications to the frame and axle mounts. 🍻
That’s why you buy a over the axle track bar mount, track bar drop down bracket,a drop pitman and do a WJ knuckle swap…..
@@jammerlupardi8782 agreed, I won’t deny that set up IS better, but here’s my thoughts: i feel the Overall cost is a No for me. That kind of money can be well spent on other mods for jeeps under 4” of lift and Lifts under 4.5" may require extended bumpstops to prevent track bar from contacting the diff cover. So that’s not convincing an LCG builder. why not just long arm 3 link with that money? No track bar needed.🤷♂️ all that for an almost perfect steering setup that is still not perfect because the jeeps lift height which doesn’t make the drag link parallel to the ground even with a low hanging pitman arm.
@@ATEMOFFROADthat’s all way to much going on , I just send it the way it is…..
Where can I get the bracket for the shock?
This ? amzn.to/3WGwUJG
How are your Roaters so CLEAN!?
I recently replaced the rotors and hubs in a previous video! They are new! Thanks for watching! Cheers 🍻
Ok, here we go! 👍👍
So far im loving it ! It’s solid 💪🏼💪🏼
@@ATEMOFFROAD your tJ is clean, did you do all the upgrades (lift, suspension etc) yourself? I have 2 that are clean but not upgraded. I plan on making my 97 a crawler because it’s a squirrel cage (2.4) but I’m actively researching lifts and suspension upgrades for my 05 Rubicon.
Curious. Your previous setup before this when you were turning right did you have any issue with the drags link where it connects at the tie rod hitting the sway bar mount on the right side ? It doesn’t really prevent it from going much further than it could be it does stop it premature for me…
That’s strange I never had any issues as you describe, i suspect a bent drag or sway bar link.could cause this.
Would this steering kit fit on my jeep? It has stock suspension with 33s
Yes it would but your wheels may be an issue if they are stock wheels
So when you measure the time and you’re measuring 12 inches from the center of the rotor front and back🎉
Yes front and back, the front you want the measurements to be smaller than the back to get the toe in. 🍻
Good video. My project in 2022 will be 3.5” lift and a HD steering upgrade. I’ll also need to replace my stock wheels and tires. What wheel and tire set up do you have and what backspace & offset specs are you running to avoid rubbing.
That’s awesome, always cool to hear about new jeep builds , these wheels are 15x8 with a 3.5 “ backspace. I would recommend anything numerically less if you go anything larger than 31” tires. With 31” I can completely turn around full lock no rubbing. I have 32” tries with the same wheels and they do rub during full lock. I’m sure if I found wheels with a 2.5 or 2” backspace I’d be well in the clear for up to 33” tires without the need of additional wheel spacers, depends on what tires you are planning on using? Just remember that if you plan to do the rubicon 35” or larger is required to do it with the jeep jamboree team, but definitely doable with 31” tires! Thanks for watching 🍻
What track bar are you using?
would this affect 15x10 wheels ?
All depends on the wheels backspacing and offset
@@ATEMOFFROADdo you think 3.75 backspacing with 15x10 wheel on 33s would fit it cause any issues? Great video btw!👌🏻
How has it been since install. Thinking of doing on my TJ.
It’s been great , going to get it offroad very soon, it definitely tightened up the steering and solved a few other issues but so far I like it on and offroad!
@@ATEMOFFROAD thanks I ordered. Hopefully install next week. Keep up the videos.
@@aaroncrabtree4203 Awesome, thanks for watching buddy I appreciate it 🍻
What is that red bar?
I’ll drop mine off next!
Come on over, haha 😂 thanks for watching buddy 🍻
Can you run this over the Knuckle?
I think you would have to relocate your sway bar links and then it could be done , but the linkage mounts on the axle are in the way! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD in their website it says your able to run it otk and it clears everything just fine. It comes high clearance standard
@@autotek7930 sounds like you looked it up , I thought there was clearance issues, but now you say I recall that was for the straight tie rod and not the one with the bends, there were two options at the time I was deciding to build or buy the kit.
@@ATEMOFFROAD I ordered the kit myself so yes I read everything I could lol. I might not anyway. Depending on how much leverage it's gonna put on the Knuckle arm be being stacked that high
Also mentions OTK should be accompanied by trackbar relocation fyi
Nice!
Thanks for watching 🍻
Mine after Dillons? Lol
Haha yeah come on over ! That would be awesome! Thanks for watching buddy 🍻