Glad you enjoyed it! I started putting jazz for my background music a few month back randomly and it seems people really like it. So I guess its here to stay!
I use Tamyia on my White Scars. Its super important to use their thinner. Their paint is a lacquer paint, so it needs a different kind of thinner. Do not add water and it gets much easier to use
Great scheme and will definitely be using your tutorial! Just a note on the thinner, tamiya paints are laquer based so you're meant to use their tamiya laquer thinner. It's solvent based so very strong smell, but it's gotta be done!
Thank you! It might sound kinda weird, but I really do love this green and it looks even better in person. Definitely going to be continuing to expand this army just to paint more of it.
Glad you liked it and I think it critical to mention in videos such as this. Mistakes are going to happen on large models and I'd much rather give someone ideas on how to fix them, instead of either pretending like they don't happen and I'm perfect, or the the project needs to be scrapped and started over again.
One fun tip for the bleed through issue with masking is to make your first layer post masking to be either the *original* color, or a varnish; that way, the bleed through is basically invisible!
When I found your red velvet cloak video, I immediately subscribed for your backlog, and I'm super glad to see you're still doing videos! Keep it up, these are great!
Really happy you appreciate it! Its a bit different of a video for me and not doing too great currently, but its always awesome to hear that you like what I'm putting out.
With the tamiya stuff i find thinning it to the consistency to skim milk is the best way to explain how thin you want it. you did a killer job on this model btw! got a new sub from me!
Always love it when you post a new video man it really created a high note to end my night on. The knight of course looks beautiful and I learned quite a few things for when I paint my Acheron within the next month.
Thank you and I always love hearing that people are appreciating what I'm putting out there. These videos take a while a while so its good to know its worth the effort. Would love to see your Acheron once you paint it if you don't mind sending pics my way?
im also painting my knights as house vyronii! love to see someone else do the scheme on youtube. I'd love to see more videos on your knights! thanks for the video
Glad you enjoyed it and its such a cool scheme! What else would you like to see? I should probably do an army showcase sometime, but still trying to figure out how to do it in a way that's interesting.
You can get the majority of what you need in the plastic cerastus and heresy questoris knight kits I think? And glad you enjoyed! Life got busy and its difficult for me to find 20-40 hours to pour into a video like this that makes me less than $150 unfortunately
@@AmnioticlyTanked Sad reality to hear - I wish there was a greater audience for this sort of thing but all the same I'll be using this video as a guide going forward for my knights and I appreciate it greatly. For what it's worth, thanks sincerely. Btw, your instagram link is down
Very slick my friend! Would love to charge it with my Knight lol. The blue-purple undertone for the rocks was a good move too, it contrasts the armor panels nicely 👍
Thank you! It's funny as I can be super detail oriented for thing like this, but struggle to concentrate on other detailed tasks if I don't have inspiration
Excellent and each process is very well explained and captured on camera. The quality of the content you are putting out is continuing to grow and it is great to see.
I am so excited watching this video, pre ordered my lancer today and I’m gonna be doing the main armour gold with an airbrush, very new to airbrushing so have been worried about it, then BAM your vid pops up! Thanks so much
Glad you found this helpful and the timing was impeccable. Let me know if you need any help with your airbrush, there's a bit of a learning curve to it, but once you get the hang of it, its a game changer.
@AmnioticlyTanked yeah I'm still trying to get used to it, due to a spine injury I can't sit for long periods so standard painting has become a bit difficult haha, any general tips for the airbrush ? Or if you have a video
As far as a video, I am working on putting one together but its going to be awhile. Will post a link here once I have it up though. Couple of tips: 1) Paint thinness and airbrush pressure matter a ton. Depending on your experience with brush painting, the transparency/opacity of paints matters a lot more when airbrushing and in general you are going to want to have fairly thin, and thus transparent paints to get decent blends and transitions. Because the paint is thin though, you are going to need to dial down the PSI* otherwise you risk blasting the paint everywhere and getting what is know as spider webs, when the paint runs in weird lined due to the air pushing it around. *I usually try to stay around 15-20 psi 2) Because the paints are thin and transparent, underpainting (or pre-highlights/shading matter a bunch more than in brush painting). This is why you will often see people do a gray-scale pre highlight and then apply their main color over that. I have a couple of videos on my channel showing that where I paint space marines (they are old and the quality is not as good, but the content is there) 3) Clean your airbrush after ever use - might seem obvious, but a dirty airbrush will spray worse and be a frustrating experience. 4) You don't need a fancy $300 dollar brush to get started. Almost everything I paint is done using a Badger 105 Patriot with is only about $80-100 depending on where you buy it. 5) There is a pretty big learning curve and a lot of getting good at airbrushing just comes down to trial and error. There is no one right way to do a lot of this stuff, and you will develop your own style of what works and what does not for you over time. For example I lean heavily into inks to provide color modulation and shading, but someone else can use opaque paints to get a similar result. Thats all I can think of for now, but if you have any specific questions as you start your journey, feel free to reach out! -Phil
Hey great vid! im in the process of doing all the trim on my knights and ran into the issue you had with the liquid mask ruining brushes. I found that using goof off was the only thing that removes the dried mask from brushes, really helped me out. These look great!
@@AmnioticlyTanked I'm still not 100% sure! I know I want it to be a watermelon-themed scheme with green panels and pink weapon casings and lenses, so it'll depend on whether the scheme would be better served by a candy green or a simple bright green.
Phenomenal paint job! Your tutorial is concise and still incredibly informative. You are an absolute surgeon with your Exacto. I have humbrol liquid mask; I've found two methods that work really well for removing the mask without damaging the paint are blue tack (just dab or lightly rub) and toothpick you've let soak in water (wet wood is softer). What varnish are you using? Mine does not hold up well to scratching. Subbed. Can't wait to see what's next!
@@Skaramine well I guess I beat you to it. Thanks for the comment though as its good incase someone does not get that far in the video! Honestly silly putty is a fantastic masking material, and its almost always my go to when I dont need crisp lins
Amazing job explaining this, I have used this video so much for reference. Did you varnish the super structure/ skeleton with vanish also? Thank you for this video, again great job.
Thank you and glad you have been enjoying and referencing it! I would love to see your work if you have an IG or anything. I believe that I used Vallejo satin varnish for the super structure but I don't 100% remember.
Fantastic video, your process and work order are broken down perfectly and love your final detail choices (especially the decal and masking techniques). Can't wait for more content! I'm having issues replicating the Green on my own models armor plates at 5/1 with Tamiya Clear. At each PSI from 15-25 pooling in corners near the trim and some splatter are common. I've tried a finer needle and various other mix ratios with little success, the mix just seems too thin to adhere and control well. Any advice?
Thanks and yeah, the first couple of layers are a right pain. I've found though that once a layer or two is down, it gets easier though. Couple of things: 1) it's OK if the first few layers are barely noticeable and only lightly tint the armor plates green, these help to give future layers something to stick too. 2) a little bit of pooling and splatters are ok in the earlier layers, as they will dissappear as more layers get added on. Also, if anything is too bad you can always weather over it. 3) I've also found that sometimes oils from my fingers can cause some adhesion issues, not much you can do if thats the issue but might be worth replaying a layer of silver?
Thank you so much for the advice! With some adjustments to the first few layers I'm finally seeing much better coverage and adhesion just like you said. I'll add that spraying slightly further away from the model for the early sprays kept the paint even and easily created those first few faint layers, then moving the distance back in to normal on the second or third layer indeed built the green up wonderfully. Really appreciate the detailed reply, this is a masterful creator. Upvote this dude people.
Last quick question, how long are you giving each clear green coat to dry between layers? I swear 5 min works fine like 70% of the time...and then randomly *boom* splatter pooling. Would you advise something like 10 or even maybe 30 min?
@@stepp55 I generally just do a rotation through every armor panel for each layer, so maybe 5 minutes between layers? If I had to guess, the splattering you are seeing is because the previous layer was applied a little thicker than the others and so its not fully drying. So like everything with Airbrushing, there is no single correct answer, but more of an "it depends" on what you did before.
Thank you! They are all from the now OOP forgeworld Vryonii decal sheet. I think you can get similar ones from the transfer sheet in the new plastic Lancer and other cerastus knights though.
Despite them being called “Acrylic”, Tamiya acrylic paints are actually alcohol-based, so most acrylic thinners don’t work well. The ideal method is using Tamiya’s own thinners, but imo you’re perfectly fine thinning with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
Came for knight painting, stayed for ambient sax. Thanks for putting this together.
Glad you enjoyed it! I started putting jazz for my background music a few month back randomly and it seems people really like it. So I guess its here to stay!
I use Tamyia on my White Scars. Its super important to use their thinner. Their paint is a lacquer paint, so it needs a different kind of thinner. Do not add water and it gets much easier to use
I love the Vyronii scheme and you've done it justice here. Good job.
My first 40k model was an Imperial Knight Crusader about 2 months ago. It's awesome.
Great scheme and will definitely be using your tutorial! Just a note on the thinner, tamiya paints are laquer based so you're meant to use their tamiya laquer thinner. It's solvent based so very strong smell, but it's gotta be done!
Really beautiful work! That green is tasty! And the detailing with decals and weathering works really well.
Thank you!
It might sound kinda weird, but I really do love this green and it looks even better in person. Definitely going to be continuing to expand this army just to paint more of it.
Awesome video! I liked that you showed mistakes happen and can be fixable.
Glad you liked it and I think it critical to mention in videos such as this. Mistakes are going to happen on large models and I'd much rather give someone ideas on how to fix them, instead of either pretending like they don't happen and I'm perfect, or the the project needs to be scrapped and started over again.
One fun tip for the bleed through issue with masking is to make your first layer post masking to be either the *original* color, or a varnish; that way, the bleed through is basically invisible!
Huh, that makes a ton of sense and I'll need to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!
this paintjob and process is amazing, I've got a questoris knight I need to paint up soon, definitely taking notes
Thank you and glad you enjoyed. Please feel free to reach out if you have any specific questions as you paint yours!
When I found your red velvet cloak video, I immediately subscribed for your backlog, and I'm super glad to see you're still doing videos! Keep it up, these are great!
You have managed to make your Gold look exceptional. It has so much depth and interest. Great work 👏
Thank you so much! Its incredible what some color can do to metalics
Rip to this channel love your content
Thank you! Honestly just cant make time to film and edit videos these days
@@AmnioticlyTankedplease come back with more knight videos 😭😭🙏🙏
This looks amazing!
I love your armor panels! just got my first knight, a Castigator, and have been thinking about house Vyronii and I think this video made my choice!
that is awesome my friend
Really happy you appreciate it! Its a bit different of a video for me and not doing too great currently, but its always awesome to hear that you like what I'm putting out.
With the tamiya stuff i find thinning it to the consistency to skim milk is the best way to explain how thin you want it. you did a killer job on this model btw! got a new sub from me!
Ah yeah, thats a great way to describe it. What have you used it on?
Thanks and glad to have you here in my little corner in the internet!
@@AmnioticlyTanked I used to paint a lot of gundam models specifically used it to paint visors or camera lenses. very recently got back into 40k
Always love it when you post a new video man it really created a high note to end my night on. The knight of course looks beautiful and I learned quite a few things for when I paint my Acheron within the next month.
Thank you and I always love hearing that people are appreciating what I'm putting out there. These videos take a while a while so its good to know its worth the effort.
Would love to see your Acheron once you paint it if you don't mind sending pics my way?
@@AmnioticlyTanked I definitely will send you pics when I get it done!
Metallic green my beloved. This looks absolutely stunning.
Thank you so much. Its easy one of my favorite schemes
im also painting my knights as house vyronii! love to see someone else do the scheme on youtube. I'd love to see more videos on your knights! thanks for the video
Glad you enjoyed it and its such a cool scheme!
What else would you like to see? I should probably do an army showcase sometime, but still trying to figure out how to do it in a way that's interesting.
@@AmnioticlyTanked yeah I'd love a show and tell of your army. Maybe go over your inspirations etc. Keep it up!
That green is very good.
Thank you! I have so so much fun painting it.
Awesome video, I'll paint my knight exactly like this!
Man, I wish I could find the transfers I need for this. Looks amazing, shame I haven't seen any videos since but thank you for this.
You can get the majority of what you need in the plastic cerastus and heresy questoris knight kits I think?
And glad you enjoyed! Life got busy and its difficult for me to find 20-40 hours to pour into a video like this that makes me less than $150 unfortunately
@@AmnioticlyTanked Sad reality to hear - I wish there was a greater audience for this sort of thing but all the same I'll be using this video as a guide going forward for my knights and I appreciate it greatly. For what it's worth, thanks sincerely. Btw, your instagram link is down
Incredible! I would love to take my work to the next level like this! Thank you for this incredible tutorial!
Very slick my friend! Would love to charge it with my Knight lol. The blue-purple undertone for the rocks was a good move too, it contrasts the armor panels nicely 👍
You have a good eye for detail!
Thank you! It's funny as I can be super detail oriented for thing like this, but struggle to concentrate on other detailed tasks if I don't have inspiration
Excellent and each process is very well explained and captured on camera. The quality of the content you are putting out is continuing to grow and it is great to see.
Gorgeousm model, looking for inspiration for my larger Tau units and this gives me a few ideas.
Nice painting and useful techniques!
I am so excited watching this video, pre ordered my lancer today and I’m gonna be doing the main armour gold with an airbrush, very new to airbrushing so have been worried about it, then BAM your vid pops up! Thanks so much
Glad you found this helpful and the timing was impeccable. Let me know if you need any help with your airbrush, there's a bit of a learning curve to it, but once you get the hang of it, its a game changer.
@AmnioticlyTanked yeah I'm still trying to get used to it, due to a spine injury I can't sit for long periods so standard painting has become a bit difficult haha, any general tips for the airbrush ? Or if you have a video
As far as a video, I am working on putting one together but its going to be awhile. Will post a link here once I have it up though.
Couple of tips:
1) Paint thinness and airbrush pressure matter a ton. Depending on your experience with brush painting, the transparency/opacity of paints matters a lot more when airbrushing and in general you are going to want to have fairly thin, and thus transparent paints to get decent blends and transitions. Because the paint is thin though, you are going to need to dial down the PSI* otherwise you risk blasting the paint everywhere and getting what is know as spider webs, when the paint runs in weird lined due to the air pushing it around.
*I usually try to stay around 15-20 psi
2) Because the paints are thin and transparent, underpainting (or pre-highlights/shading matter a bunch more than in brush painting). This is why you will often see people do a gray-scale pre highlight and then apply their main color over that. I have a couple of videos on my channel showing that where I paint space marines (they are old and the quality is not as good, but the content is there)
3) Clean your airbrush after ever use - might seem obvious, but a dirty airbrush will spray worse and be a frustrating experience.
4) You don't need a fancy $300 dollar brush to get started. Almost everything I paint is done using a Badger 105 Patriot with is only about $80-100 depending on where you buy it.
5) There is a pretty big learning curve and a lot of getting good at airbrushing just comes down to trial and error. There is no one right way to do a lot of this stuff, and you will develop your own style of what works and what does not for you over time. For example I lean heavily into inks to provide color modulation and shading, but someone else can use opaque paints to get a similar result.
Thats all I can think of for now, but if you have any specific questions as you start your journey, feel free to reach out!
-Phil
Hey great vid! im in the process of doing all the trim on my knights and ran into the issue you had with the liquid mask ruining brushes. I found that using goof off was the only thing that removes the dried mask from brushes, really helped me out. These look great!
Huh, ill need to try that as I dont really want to spend 5 to 10 dollars in brushes every night. Thanks for the tip!
man I love this paint job. it looks great
I was debating using a metallic green candy scheme for my own (Chaos) Knights, so this video was a great help! Thank you! :)
Happy to be of help. Hopefully you decided to go with it?
@@AmnioticlyTanked I'm still not 100% sure! I know I want it to be a watermelon-themed scheme with green panels and pink weapon casings and lenses, so it'll depend on whether the scheme would be better served by a candy green or a simple bright green.
@@roochman a lime green could certainly look sweet. There is an official chaos knight house thats lime green and black right?
More masks then halloween turned out great in the end
So. Much. Masking...
Glorious.
Thank you!
great job on this!
Thank you!
Phenomenal paint job! Your tutorial is concise and still incredibly informative. You are an absolute surgeon with your Exacto. I have humbrol liquid mask; I've found two methods that work really well for removing the mask without damaging the paint are blue tack (just dab or lightly rub) and toothpick you've let soak in water (wet wood is softer). What varnish are you using? Mine does not hold up well to scratching.
Subbed. Can't wait to see what's next!
Very cool!
Thank you!
A good moldable mask for painting, I learned from Eons of Battle, is Silly Putty.
Its not super precise, but work really well! I used it on the knees for this dude
@@AmnioticlyTankedI just came back to the comments as I started seeing your work on the knees. 😂
@@Skaramine well I guess I beat you to it.
Thanks for the comment though as its good incase someone does not get that far in the video! Honestly silly putty is a fantastic masking material, and its almost always my go to when I dont need crisp lins
@@AmnioticlyTanked your work is incredibly entertaining and soothing.
@@Skaramine thank you! The background jazz helps right?
Amazing job explaining this, I have used this video so much for reference.
Did you varnish the super structure/ skeleton with vanish also?
Thank you for this video, again great job.
Thank you and glad you have been enjoying and referencing it! I would love to see your work if you have an IG or anything.
I believe that I used Vallejo satin varnish for the super structure but I don't 100% remember.
Great video. I need that metal template!
Crap! Forgot to put it in the description
samueldecal.com/products/copy-of-alexen-model-aj0086-gundam-military-photo-etch-bending-tool
And thank you!
Now I want to repaint my crusader as house vyronii lol
You won't hear any objection from me lol. I freaking love their candy green color scheme m
Fantastic video, your process and work order are broken down perfectly and love your final detail choices (especially the decal and masking techniques). Can't wait for more content! I'm having issues replicating the Green on my own models armor plates at 5/1 with Tamiya Clear. At each PSI from 15-25 pooling in corners near the trim and some splatter are common. I've tried a finer needle and various other mix ratios with little success, the mix just seems too thin to adhere and control well. Any advice?
Thanks and yeah, the first couple of layers are a right pain. I've found though that once a layer or two is down, it gets easier though.
Couple of things:
1) it's OK if the first few layers are barely noticeable and only lightly tint the armor plates green, these help to give future layers something to stick too.
2) a little bit of pooling and splatters are ok in the earlier layers, as they will dissappear as more layers get added on. Also, if anything is too bad you can always weather over it.
3) I've also found that sometimes oils from my fingers can cause some adhesion issues, not much you can do if thats the issue but might be worth replaying a layer of silver?
Thank you so much for the advice! With some adjustments to the first few layers I'm finally seeing much better coverage and adhesion just like you said. I'll add that spraying slightly further away from the model for the early sprays kept the paint even and easily created those first few faint layers, then moving the distance back in to normal on the second or third layer indeed built the green up wonderfully. Really appreciate the detailed reply, this is a masterful creator. Upvote this dude people.
Last quick question, how long are you giving each clear green coat to dry between layers? I swear 5 min works fine like 70% of the time...and then randomly *boom* splatter pooling. Would you advise something like 10 or even maybe 30 min?
@@stepp55 I generally just do a rotation through every armor panel for each layer, so maybe 5 minutes between layers?
If I had to guess, the splattering you are seeing is because the previous layer was applied a little thicker than the others and so its not fully drying. So like everything with Airbrushing, there is no single correct answer, but more of an "it depends" on what you did before.
Any tips for getting a similar green finish from a bristle brush instead of an air brush?
Great video - I must know where you got the skull/lightning bolt decals from please?
Thank you! They are all from the now OOP forgeworld Vryonii decal sheet. I think you can get similar ones from the transfer sheet in the new plastic Lancer and other cerastus knights though.
tysm - I really appreciate the advice - will be using some of these techniques for a golden demon entry
@@Viz369-m8q Please keep me updated on progress!
Where did bro go, he was such a goat
after this vidoe this motivated me to paint my knight, btw is this the plastic or resin
Awesome. What house are you going to go with?
And this one is resin. I don't have that GW hook up.
@@AmnioticlyTanked not a house but i will do a night lords theme
Any other whites you would recommend? Can’t get a hold of that in Canada!
Check out spraygunner.com they are us based but ship internationally. Honestly, the media white is the best airbrush white hands down
What time stamp did you paint the eye at?
The Heineken household
Woh. Never noticed that before...
Wich color did you use to shade the deep red? Cant find scale 75 purple ink. Did you use the Inktense Violet?
Correct, Inktense Violet. Sorry for the confusion!
@@AmnioticlyTanked ty for clarification.
@@AmnioticlyTanked Wich part of the process should i pay the most attention?
@@euphoria7046Are you looking to copy this exact scheme, or only certain parts of it?
@@AmnioticlyTanked More or less this scheme. The green looks very nice and i got some nice ideas for heraldry.
Despite them being called “Acrylic”, Tamiya acrylic paints are actually alcohol-based, so most acrylic thinners don’t work well. The ideal method is using Tamiya’s own thinners, but imo you’re perfectly fine thinning with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
Where did you get the head and arms?
From the Forgeworld Knight Atrapos
@@AmnioticlyTanked and i thought there was a stl
New video when?