I just installed these on my 2015 impreza base (yes I know its non turbo and slow, it's a daily I have 6 vehicles). It's lowered on coils and this made it so I could easily adjust camber. I just installed them today along with a whiteline rear sway bar. The car feels so much better than it did stock. I used the bottom outer hole for the sway bar link, the bottom hole for the hub, and the outermost hole for the coilover. Feels great after I aligned it. Also FYI if anyone was wondering, it did lower my car more, maybe about an inch lower. Before I had a bit of wheel gap, maybe an inch, but now it is ALMOST starting to tuck.
Just bought a set of those. Glad to see an install videos cause I was confused with how those holes work but not anymore after seeing it all out together.
At roughly the 6:00 min to like 6:37 mark how to adjust the arm is wrong. You don't have to take that back bolt off that connects to the subframe to adjust. In the video it's maxed out to positive camber, but to push the wheel out, or pull it in for negative or positive you use the black bolt in between the two chromes ones at 6:37 mark to turn the thread in or out
Hey, thank you for elaborating! In the video, Cody did not adjust the control arms, otherwise he likely would have figured that out that he didn't need to remove the back bolt. He also didn't really touch on how to adjust the arms, so thank you for explaining that. We're working on being more informative in our videos!
Looking to get my adjustable rear arms. From 6:29, it sounded like in order to adjust it (once installed to the car), you would have to take the inner end out and rotate to get to the length that you want for the desired camber? That just doesn't seem that much adjustable to me. You would pretty much have to loose endlink and shock from it too?
There's -2 degree camber in the rears on my 86 from factory. If i lower my car an inch, and assuming camber becomes more negative, do you think i can get away with using adjustable RCLA to bring it back to -1.5 ish without adjustable toe arms?
Hi, i have a weird sound coming from the axle to differential. A shop recommended an adjustable lca to fix the geometry and keep it straight while car is at rest. Do you think lca can fix the geometry of the axle going to differential?
Do you happen to know how much negative camber it had lowered before these arms were added? I'm hoping I can get around -1.5° - -2° of camber for a dual purpose street and weekend track day setup after modestly lowering a BRZ. Not sure if it's like this for these cars, but couple degrees of negative camber is always advised for increased cornering performance on Miatas. Also, I believe I read it's optimal to have your rear sway bar parallel with the ground when the suspension is at typical load. It looks like these arms has multiple points where you can mount the factory (or any) sway bar endlink to the bar. I've never seen that before, but if that's the case, one could likely set their sway bar to the proper height after being lowered with just these arms. Typically aftermarket endlinks are required to do that, and they're almost always less durable than stock, so that's really nice.
Before the control arms we were seeing about -3° camber with the coilovers at about 75% of their drop range. At around 3" lower than stock we had about -1.5-2°
There was quite a bit of threads to push the wheel out. We had ours dialed in really far to remove the negative camber but you could certainly push them out to add negative camber!
@@ImportImageRacing Appreciate the quick response! I'm coming from last gen with PBM LCA's that were able to pull -11.5 degrees with just LCA and BC Coils. I'm assuming these will be able to get somewhat close, looks like there's some decent threading and the multiple knuckle holes look awesome too. Megan has really stepped up the quality recently, definitely going to be putting in a decent order through you guys once my car shows up! Thanks once again!!
Can negative camber be fixed by adjusting the existing stock control arms ? Do I have to purchase new control arms if I upgrade the suspension and lower the car ? And if I’m only lowering the car slightly say half an inch will it make much difference ??
The factory control arms don't have any adjustments them. Lowering the car will almost always cause some negative camber. The lower you go the more camber you'll get without adjustable arms. But if you are planning on lowering less than 2" you should be fine with the stock arms.
It all depends on your setup and how far you drop the car. the lower you make the car the more natural negative camber you will get. These are great for correcting that negative camber, or adding more.
I just installed these on my 2015 impreza base (yes I know its non turbo and slow, it's a daily I have 6 vehicles). It's lowered on coils and this made it so I could easily adjust camber. I just installed them today along with a whiteline rear sway bar. The car feels so much better than it did stock. I used the bottom outer hole for the sway bar link, the bottom hole for the hub, and the outermost hole for the coilover. Feels great after I aligned it. Also FYI if anyone was wondering, it did lower my car more, maybe about an inch lower. Before I had a bit of wheel gap, maybe an inch, but now it is ALMOST starting to tuck.
Best BRZ channel, Megan Racing seems to have stepped up it production quality in the past few years.
Thank you! We noticed that as well they make really good stuff now!
Looks like my Hardrace ones so I will use this video as a guide to fit. I am glad I stumbled across this.
Just bought a set of those. Glad to see an install videos cause I was confused with how those holes work but not anymore after seeing it all out together.
thanks! ordering a new set from your site now!
👏🙌
Ah , when I installed mine I matched the threads and length of arm with the oem arm , I should have kept them unadjusted to fix my camber issues
At roughly the 6:00 min to like 6:37 mark how to adjust the arm is wrong. You don't have to take that back bolt off that connects to the subframe to adjust. In the video it's maxed out to positive camber, but to push the wheel out, or pull it in for negative or positive you use the black bolt in between the two chromes ones at 6:37 mark to turn the thread in or out
Hey, thank you for elaborating! In the video, Cody did not adjust the control arms, otherwise he likely would have figured that out that he didn't need to remove the back bolt. He also didn't really touch on how to adjust the arms, so thank you for explaining that. We're working on being more informative in our videos!
Thank you
awesome
How do you know where to bolt down the sway bar end links?
Looking to get my adjustable rear arms. From 6:29, it sounded like in order to adjust it (once installed to the car), you would have to take the inner end out and rotate to get to the length that you want for the desired camber? That just doesn't seem that much adjustable to me. You would pretty much have to loose endlink and shock from it too?
There's -2 degree camber in the rears on my 86 from factory. If i lower my car an inch, and assuming camber becomes more negative, do you think i can get away with using adjustable RCLA to bring it back to -1.5 ish without adjustable toe arms?
Hi, i have a weird sound coming from the axle to differential. A shop recommended an adjustable lca to fix the geometry and keep it straight while car is at rest. Do you think lca can fix the geometry of the axle going to differential?
You need diff/ subframe risers to fix that
Do you happen to know how much negative camber it had lowered before these arms were added? I'm hoping I can get around -1.5° - -2° of camber for a dual purpose street and weekend track day setup after modestly lowering a BRZ. Not sure if it's like this for these cars, but couple degrees of negative camber is always advised for increased cornering performance on Miatas. Also, I believe I read it's optimal to have your rear sway bar parallel with the ground when the suspension is at typical load. It looks like these arms has multiple points where you can mount the factory (or any) sway bar endlink to the bar. I've never seen that before, but if that's the case, one could likely set their sway bar to the proper height after being lowered with just these arms. Typically aftermarket endlinks are required to do that, and they're almost always less durable than stock, so that's really nice.
Before the control arms we were seeing about -3° camber with the coilovers at about 75% of their drop range. At around 3" lower than stock we had about -1.5-2°
@@ImportImageRacing Interesting, that's good news! Thanks for letting me know.
How much negative camber do you think you can get with these? Was there a good amount of threading available? Thanks for the videos.
There was quite a bit of threads to push the wheel out. We had ours dialed in really far to remove the negative camber but you could certainly push them out to add negative camber!
@@ImportImageRacing Appreciate the quick response! I'm coming from last gen with PBM LCA's that were able to pull -11.5 degrees with just LCA and BC Coils.
I'm assuming these will be able to get somewhat close, looks like there's some decent threading and the multiple knuckle holes look awesome too.
Megan has really stepped up the quality recently, definitely going to be putting in a decent order through you guys once my car shows up!
Thanks once again!!
Would you do any videos to test fit 57DR or 57CR?
We were originally going to put a set of them on but decided to go with cosmis. We may change it up in the future though.
Can negative camber be fixed by adjusting the existing stock control arms ? Do I have to purchase new control arms if I upgrade the suspension and lower the car ? And if I’m only lowering the car slightly say half an inch will it make much difference ??
The factory control arms don't have any adjustments them. Lowering the car will almost always cause some negative camber. The lower you go the more camber you'll get without adjustable arms. But if you are planning on lowering less than 2" you should be fine with the stock arms.
Do you need a new alignment after the installation?
We highly recommend a professional alignment after installation of any adjustable suspension part.
Is it needed if installing coilovers or its just after springs?
It all depends on your setup and how far you drop the car. the lower you make the car the more natural negative camber you will get. These are great for correcting that negative camber, or adding more.
function > cheap and easy
What rims are they size off sets etc
Cosmis Xt206R 17x8 +30
@@ImportImageRacing do you know what the stock wheels dimensions were by any chance?