I appreciate this video. I learned a lot. I have a 1977 Ford F250 automatic transmission, The transmission is original. I was googling for the carbuerator kickdown and found your video channel. So this is something new for me. Thanks
my car is taking forever to shift once i start from a stop , and i have a small leak coming from my transmission, and i believe you explained my issue spot on. thank you
Thank you for this video it helped me solve my shifting issue with my 72 fmx. After I fixed the shifter leak it wouldn't shift out of 1st. So I would go to D1 then walk it to D and it would shift normal. So after watching your video I realize the kick down is probably moving when shifting from P to D. And low and behold it was. So I temporarily wired it so it can't move. Now I can take it from P to D and it shifts perfectly. Thank you sir! I still have to break it back down at some point cuz I need my kick down 😂
@@brianguzman2994 Not a dumb question. We are all here to learn. The kickdown rod is for your passing gear. It is also known as the TV(trottle valve) rod. It connects to the valve body and allows the tranny to downshift at full throttle .
I’m going to confess my screw up As you just described about the kick down and shift points I didn’t have my kick down hooked up and my car would be in 3rd gear just past the 60’ mark at wide open throttle with the transmission in drive🤦♂️😂 I asked another racer who does transmissions and he thought for a second and asked if my kick down was hooked up and uneducated me said no… I’ve never had a kick down on the car. He quickly educated me. So I went home and made something to work with my high rise intake and carb linkage and oh man what a difference!!! It actually revs the engine a little to high between shifts but it’s way more consistent
I picked up a c4 and the end where the linkage all goes must be broken. There’s room for just the shift lever and not a lockdown. There’s room transmission wouldn’t go in drive. It went in all other gears until a couple nights ago. I put it in reverse and heard a pop now I have no reverse and just one forward gear I think. Not sure what I need to do to fix this now. Thank you so much for all your videos.
G'day ibuild c4s as a hobby I've learnt everything you just explained by myself over the years my mind is totally blown that shops didn't even know this stuff😂😂😂😂😂
Another great vid. I share your frustrations. It's that dealing with people thing again lol. Yes and shops can be the worst . One other thing is when bolting on the aftermarket lever it gets pusged right on , so then the inner section is in the groove and not fully clamped :(
A modification to the down shift linkage on the C4 in my hotrod that I made works great. Here is how it works. I removed the Lokar down shift cable I was using. Installed an adjustable micro switch on the carburetor linkage that opens at 75% throttle, a 12 volt relay, a 12 volt door opener solenoid with a small chain connected to the C4 down shift lever. This way the micro switch and solenoid provides an instant down shift. Also connected to the micro switch is a three way 12 volt solenoid valve that dumps the manifold vacuum to the vacuum modulator. So now there is an instant down shift at the same time the vacuum modulator goes to full line pressure. The result is a hard instant down shift that is just great for hot rods. I don't know what it does to the transmission though. But it has been working for 7 years so far. 😊
Hello, I don't know if you or anyone reading this can help me. First of all, respect for the comprehensive and understandable explanation in the video. Now my question. We removed a Ford C4 gearbox because it was cracked and bought a used C5 gearbox and overhauled it. I really put a lot of effort into this. After installation, the gearbox could not be shifted into position “1” and had propulsion in all positions. The wheels also turned forward in the “N” and “R” shift positions. Can anyone tell me what the problem or fault could be? Thanks for your efforts.
There are differences in the shift linkage and internal shift lever. They must be compatible with each other. Hard to explain. I'll try and go over this in a future video.
@@BroaderPerformance A C4 problem I have been having that I have never seen before is the input shaft and the output shaft rubbing against each other. Two different transmissions now with the same problem. The end play is correct but still has the problem. I have gone through the transmission but can't find anything wrong. I have ground down the ends both shafts and that seem to have stopped the problem. But I have never seen an explanation for why this happens. 🤔
Maybe you would have some insight on this. 1986 bronco, 351w, reman C6, 3.50 ratio 31" tires. Spinning 3000rpms @ 50mph in drive. Transmission shifts from 1,2 into drive and doesnt feel like its slipping, no flare. But that rpm and at that speed suggest trans problems to me. Have you ever seen a torque converter fail or result in overly high rpm at cruising speeds in a C6? Yet not appear to have a slip feeling when accelarting up to speed? This one has me stumped.
Anybody know the size and thread of that nut that holds the kickdown on? New transmission and shifter kit didn’t come with this. Going from a t5 to a c4 thanks.
Thanks. I took mine off and put washers in it.. not working right now. Another thing is does the vacuum have to be hooked up for it to work right if I shift it manually? It won't kick into Drive until I'm at 4000+rpm.. or hammer it and let off it shifts
Good stuff Love the New England accent. Picked up a 66 F100 with a Ford 400. C6 transmission. Has no kickdown lever. I'm gonna check for that "float" you mmentioned right now.
Good morning…May I kindly ask a question…I’m in need of the proper C4 column shift lever arm. I have a 1967 C4 transmission (Out of 1965 Mustang) that appears to be in a “floor” shifter position (pointed upward). I’d like for a column shift instead of floor shift. Is there a column shift lever with kickdown bracket on the market to purchase and accomplish this? Can I just reposition the current floor shift positioned lever to allow for column shift and how? Are there any available instructions/diagrams that show this? Thank you kindly in advance for any assistance you can guide me with. Stay safe, blessed, and be well.
Great info I have 79 f150 C6 won’t shift I have to release the gas in order to shift to second gear I replace modulator then shop put a new also replace trans fluid and filter no change…before I have a 400 engine could this be a problem than you
Hey, man! I am trying to get my accelerator cable set up on my 66 Mustang C4 automatic. I can't find anything online to show me how to put it together, and the auto shops around me are not all too helpful. Could you give some pointers there?
Great video....can't begin to tell you the number of badly installed BM Shifters ( which I hate) that create more problems cause of the reasons you gave.....so many " self inflicted" problems cause they want a cool race shifter!!
Hello my issue is after replacing my c4 on my 79ltd i dont have a full throttle the link doesn't allow it is was from a mustang swapped bell housing and put the down kick on but when conect to carb it doesn't allow for it to go full throttle
Thanks for the video. So let me ask your opinion. I have a 73 Lincoln Continental with the 460 and a C6 transmission. It’s just a beater but fun. I’m putting a aftermarket carburetor on it with no kickdown provision. Can I just go without the kickdown?
I did not know the kickdown raises the wot shift points. So could I put a wire tie on the kickdown keep it activated all the time? I realize this will change part throttle as well but will it prematurely wear anything?
Why is it that when i leave my C6 parked por about a month the dip stick shows way, way overfilled. But if i drive it everyday it shows normal?. What could be the problem and how do i remedy it?
If you are cutting off the arms of the stock shift lever, then you are sending it back broken (unless the transmission owner told you to cut them). Yeah, that's the easy way to keep the correct spacing of the shaft, but if the owner isn't putting on an aftermarket shift linkage kit, then the stock factory one cannot be hooked up anymore (because you cut the arms off). I recently had my C6 rebuilt and the shop lost the kickdown arm and nut. Just trying to find stock replacement of that is a nightmare, so finding a factory/stock shift lever arm . . . I cannot even image trying to find one of those. I guess the message here is don't remove, modify, or cut any factory/stock parts unless the owner knows you want to and why.
I addressed this in the video. The wrong arm does no one any good either. You can use an aftermarket clamp on arm to adapt to a factory shifter if needed or a lokar universal lever.
I wish that someone could make a C4 kick down shaft seal that don't leak. The O ring only holds for about 6 months before it starts to drip. 🙄 I have found that if you soak the new O rings in transmission sealer for a month before installation it helps to tighten the seal on the shaft. They are easy to replace.
My 67' Galaxie has its original C6 and original 390. Just rebuilt engine completely. But won't have $ for the transmission rebuild for some time because the engine tapped me out. The transmission shifts smooth from 1st to 2nd but hasn't shifted to 3rd. Any ideas on where to start first? I will eventually get it serviced and or rebuilt but would like to try addressing it myself first. Please help a brother out if someone can point me in a direction. Thank folks.
I learned more than one thing, videos of even the basics can really help a guy out! Thank you for all your efforts
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
started working of my 70 f250 9 months ago. Absolutely the best video I have watched and I have seen over 400. Thanks,
IM glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
I appreciate this video. I learned a lot. I have a 1977 Ford F250 automatic transmission, The transmission is original. I was googling for the carbuerator kickdown and found your video channel. So this is something new for me. Thanks
Welcome to the channel. I hope it's helpful for you.
my car is taking forever to shift once i start from a stop , and i have a small leak coming from my transmission, and i believe you explained my issue spot on. thank you
Im glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, Mate some great simple, but necessary information from an Expert, may
be the shifter supplier should take note!
Thank you. I appreciate the comments
thank you so much! 65 mustang and you absolutely explained my issue . this is awesome !
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video it helped me solve my shifting issue with my 72 fmx. After I fixed the shifter leak it wouldn't shift out of 1st. So I would go to D1 then walk it to D and it would shift normal. So after watching your video I realize the kick down is probably moving when shifting from P to D. And low and behold it was. So I temporarily wired it so it can't move. Now I can take it from P to D and it shifts perfectly. Thank you sir! I still have to break it back down at some point cuz I need my kick down 😂
I know this is a dumb question but what’s a kickdown
@@brianguzman2994 Not a dumb question. We are all here to learn. The kickdown rod is for your passing gear. It is also known as the TV(trottle valve) rod. It connects to the valve body and allows the tranny to downshift at full throttle .
I’m going to confess my screw up
As you just described about the kick down and shift points
I didn’t have my kick down hooked up and my car would be in 3rd gear just past the 60’ mark at wide open throttle with the transmission in drive🤦♂️😂
I asked another racer who does transmissions and he thought for a second and asked if my kick down was hooked up and uneducated me said no… I’ve never had a kick down on the car. He quickly educated me. So I went home and made something to work with my high rise intake and carb linkage and oh man what a difference!!! It actually revs the engine a little to high between shifts but it’s way more consistent
It does help for sure. Thanks for sharing your story.
I picked up a c4 and the end where the linkage all goes must be broken. There’s room for just the shift lever and not a lockdown. There’s room transmission wouldn’t go in drive. It went in all other gears until a couple nights ago. I put it in reverse and heard a pop now I have no reverse and just one forward gear I think. Not sure what I need to do to fix this now. Thank you so much for all your videos.
Thanks. I don't know much about automatics so I like learning.
Im glad it helped.
G'day ibuild c4s as a hobby I've learnt everything you just explained by myself over the years my mind is totally blown that shops didn't even know this stuff😂😂😂😂😂
Another great vid. I share your frustrations. It's that dealing with people thing again lol. Yes and shops can be the worst .
One other thing is when bolting on the aftermarket lever it gets pusged right on , so then the inner section is in the groove and not fully clamped :(
For sure. Thats a good point about the aftermarket lever falling into the groove. Im going to address that at some point.
I’m new to it so I’d rather here it from a senior tech, thank you 👌
Happy to help!
Question 351 cab c6 pull away from stop sign in drive 3 feet truck down shifts shouldn't it be pulling away in 1st
CHeck the kickdown adjustment. Or just disconnect it and see if the problem goes away.
I’ve used the Lokar kickdown cable kit to connect the kickdown when an aftermarket intake manifold was too tall to work with the stock kickdown rod.
Much easier than reworking the factory levers for sure.
A modification to the down shift linkage on the C4 in my hotrod that I made works great. Here is how it works.
I removed the Lokar down shift cable I was using. Installed an adjustable micro switch on the carburetor linkage that opens at 75% throttle, a 12 volt relay, a 12 volt door opener solenoid with a small chain connected to the C4 down shift lever. This way the micro switch and solenoid provides an instant down shift. Also connected to the micro switch is a three way 12 volt solenoid valve that dumps the manifold vacuum to the vacuum modulator. So now there is an instant down shift at the same time the vacuum modulator goes to full line pressure. The result is a hard instant down shift that is just great for hot rods. I don't know what it does to the transmission though. But it has been working for 7 years so far. 😊
Hello, I don't know if you or anyone reading this can help me. First of all, respect for the comprehensive and understandable explanation in the video. Now my question. We removed a Ford C4 gearbox because it was cracked and bought a used C5 gearbox and overhauled it. I really put a lot of effort into this. After installation, the gearbox could not be shifted into position “1” and had propulsion in all positions. The wheels also turned forward in the “N” and “R” shift positions. Can anyone tell me what the problem or fault could be? Thanks for your efforts.
There are differences in the shift linkage and internal shift lever. They must be compatible with each other. Hard to explain. I'll try and go over this in a future video.
Good video just for the content and details that don't exist out there as it is. Inform the uninformed.
Im glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
@@BroaderPerformance A C4 problem I have been having that I have never seen before is the input shaft and the output shaft rubbing against each other. Two different transmissions now with the same problem. The end play is correct but still has the problem. I have gone through the transmission but can't find anything wrong. I have ground down the ends both shafts and that seem to have stopped the problem. But I have never seen an explanation for why this happens. 🤔
Maybe you would have some insight on this. 1986 bronco, 351w, reman C6, 3.50 ratio 31" tires. Spinning 3000rpms @ 50mph in drive. Transmission shifts from 1,2 into drive and doesnt feel like its slipping, no flare. But that rpm and at that speed suggest trans problems to me. Have you ever seen a torque converter fail or result in overly high rpm at cruising speeds in a C6? Yet not appear to have a slip feeling when accelarting up to speed? This one has me stumped.
Anybody know the size and thread of that nut that holds the kickdown on? New transmission and shifter kit didn’t come with this. Going from a t5 to a c4 thanks.
“Go build another 700 or something”. 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for the video as along with learning a few new things, you gave me a good laugh.
Im glad it helped. Thanks for the comments.
Thanks. I took mine off and put washers in it.. not working right now. Another thing is does the vacuum have to be hooked up for it to work right if I shift it manually? It won't kick into Drive until I'm at 4000+rpm.. or hammer it and let off it shifts
You can disconnect the vacuum but it won't shift into 3rd until a high rpm. It would work ok for drag racing but not street use.
Good stuff Love the New England accent. Picked up a 66 F100 with a Ford 400. C6 transmission. Has no kickdown lever. I'm gonna check for that "float" you mmentioned right now.
Thank you. Congratulations on your f100 purchase.
AWESOME INFO!!!👍
Glad it was helpful!
Good morning…May I kindly ask a question…I’m in need of the proper C4 column shift lever arm. I have a 1967 C4 transmission (Out of 1965 Mustang) that appears to be in a “floor” shifter position (pointed upward). I’d like for a column shift instead of floor shift. Is there a column shift lever with kickdown bracket on the market to purchase and accomplish this? Can I just reposition the current floor shift positioned lever to allow for column shift and how? Are there any available instructions/diagrams that show this? Thank you kindly in advance for any assistance you can guide me with. Stay safe, blessed, and be well.
Thats a tough one. Ford has a lot of different levers. You can try a local salvage yard if there are any left these days.
@@BroaderPerformance Good morning…Ok, thank you.
Great info I have 79 f150 C6 won’t shift I have to release the gas in order to shift to second gear I replace modulator then shop put a new also replace trans fluid and filter no change…before I have a 400 engine could this be a problem than you
Be sure you're getting a good strong vacuum signal at the modulator. You could have a vacuum leak somewhere
TH/U SOOO Much..MUCH...
I'm suffering from the Same issue!
I'm glad it helped
Hey, man! I am trying to get my accelerator cable set up on my 66 Mustang C4 automatic. I can't find anything online to show me how to put it together, and the auto shops around me are not all too helpful. Could you give some pointers there?
I believe on those it didnt have a cable it was a hard linkage. Try a Mustang supply house.
@BroaderPerformance ill go to the Ford dealership and find out. I did find a diagram that shows a cable, but it could be to another vehicle
I have an electric deal with the shifter linkage. Do I have to use it
78 400 with c6
I think your talking about the neutral safety switch. If so the trans does not require it.
Great video....can't begin to tell you the number of badly installed BM Shifters ( which I hate) that create more problems cause of the reasons you gave.....so many " self inflicted" problems cause they want a cool race shifter!!
Your right about that. Cable shifters can be a nightmare and they are not as easy to adjust as one may think.
Hello my issue is after replacing my c4 on my 79ltd i dont have a full throttle the link doesn't allow it is was from a mustang swapped bell housing and put the down kick on but when conect to carb it doesn't allow for it to go full throttle
The geometry is off. It takes some patience to re fab the linkage and get it working right again. Just some trial and error.
Thanks for the video. So let me ask your opinion. I have a 73 Lincoln Continental with the 460 and a C6 transmission. It’s just a beater but fun. I’m putting a aftermarket carburetor on it with no kickdown provision. Can I just go without the kickdown?
It wont hurt the trans if you dont hook it up.
I did not know the kickdown raises the wot shift points. So could I put a wire tie on the kickdown keep it activated all the time? I realize this will change part throttle as well but will it prematurely wear anything?
No do not engage it all the time. I had stated that in this video.
Can I use the kick down lever from my mx trans on my 65 f250 on my new C6 trans?
NO those are different unfortunately.
Thanks brother 🔧💪🤛👊🤜
Why is it that when i leave my C6 parked por about a month the dip stick shows way, way overfilled.
But if i drive it everyday it shows normal?.
What could be the problem and how do i remedy it?
The oil in the converter drains back into the pan when it sits. This is normal.
Thanks for the info!
You bet!
Might be fun to make that lever arm manual and be hand controlled.
You could probably do that with a choke cable kit if you really wanted to.
If you are cutting off the arms of the stock shift lever, then you are sending it back broken (unless the transmission owner told you to cut them). Yeah, that's the easy way to keep the correct spacing of the shaft, but if the owner isn't putting on an aftermarket shift linkage kit, then the stock factory one cannot be hooked up anymore (because you cut the arms off). I recently had my C6 rebuilt and the shop lost the kickdown arm and nut. Just trying to find stock replacement of that is a nightmare, so finding a factory/stock shift lever arm . . . I cannot even image trying to find one of those. I guess the message here is don't remove, modify, or cut any factory/stock parts unless the owner knows you want to and why.
I addressed this in the video. The wrong arm does no one any good either. You can use an aftermarket clamp on arm to adapt to a factory shifter if needed or a lokar universal lever.
,,,,,,,,,Thanks for the rundown......I would leave it connected ; as I hate units that shift too soon .......
I recommend connecting it if possible.
I wish that someone could make a C4 kick down shaft seal that don't leak.
The O ring only holds for about 6 months before it starts to drip. 🙄
I have found that if you soak the new O rings in transmission sealer for a month before installation it helps to tighten the seal on the shaft. They are easy to replace.
C4 s and fe engines I swear were designed to leak.
As i just bought a truck with a c6 in it.. this stuff is handy to know
Im glad it helps. Thanks for watching.
😎🏴☠️
It a 78. 400 with c6.
30 round clip dump into c6 ahh there how u install the valve body
100%
Im still learning so i always feel dumb 😂
Me too. Learning is a never ending process.
My 67' Galaxie has its original C6 and original 390. Just rebuilt engine completely. But won't have $ for the transmission rebuild for some time because the engine tapped me out. The transmission shifts smooth from 1st to 2nd but hasn't shifted to 3rd. Any ideas on where to start first? I will eventually get it serviced and or rebuilt but would like to try addressing it myself first. Please help a brother out if someone can point me in a direction. Thank folks.
Try cleaning the governor. If that doesnt work go through the valve body.