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They dont beleive you will pursue legal action..just hand it over to an attorney. You will get millions in damages to teach them a lesson.. stand up. Get em.

Performance 6 Pinion Power Planet Gear Set Ford C4 Planetary Gear Set First Gear: 2.46:1 Second Gear: 1.57:1 Steel 6 gear will Distribute the load 10 times better

Hi Jay. I removed my truck engine and I know there is transmission fluid leaking from inside the transmission (C6) as it forms a puddle in front of the torque converter on the inside of the housing. I did let the transmission lower slowly and hang by itself without supporting it for a period of time, so maybe that caused some damage- or maybe not. My question is if I can remove the pump to replace its internal components without damaging/dislodging anything even though the transmission is still in the vehicle? Maybe also important to note is that the puddle seemed to form when the torque converter was attached no matter the position of the transmission (that is, even after iterations of raising and lowering it using a floor jack) but I took the torque converter out and it has since stopped, even though the transmission has been through the same range of motion. Also, the truck (which I bought recently) seems to have an overfilled transmission (the fluid level is way beyond the crosshatching present- we're talking 5 inches when cold) so maybe that could explain this? Leo

Billet Steel Ford C4 Forward Clutch Drum This C-4 Forward Drum is a marketplace FIRST! Precision machined from 4140 HTSR billet steel providing superior strength and durability The drum comes with one .095" thick steel plate for clearance adjustment and, one pressure plate. Made for drag acing and off-road applications This drum can accommodate 5 frictions Save All that trouble

There was a recall on that core... Factory Defects

I drilled a hole at an angle through the bottom.... No pressure loss at all... No more burnt clutches... I run stock B/W cluthes

Use a C5 pump !!! All mods already done.... 438Stroker Here ' with my own built C4 ....4.12 best 1/8 mile pass

I learned a lot,,but the video is called pump bushing INSTALL which wasn't covered thanks 4 the lecture😐

I appreciate this video. I learned a lot. I have a 1977 Ford F250 automatic transmission, The transmission is original. I was googling for the carbuerator kickdown and found your video channel. So this is something new for me. Thanks

Man, that was very professional considering how outrageous this is.

Got a c4 today in a 77 f150 custom 4x4 its in the bed hooked to the t case. 😬 . Should be fun.

If you are cutting off the arms of the stock shift lever, then you are sending it back broken (unless the transmission owner told you to cut them). Yeah, that's the easy way to keep the correct spacing of the shaft, but if the owner isn't putting on an aftermarket shift linkage kit, then the stock factory one cannot be hooked up anymore (because you cut the arms off). I recently had my C6 rebuilt and the shop lost the kickdown arm and nut. Just trying to find stock replacement of that is a nightmare, so finding a factory/stock shift lever arm . . . I cannot even image trying to find one of those. I guess the message here is don't remove, modify, or cut any factory/stock parts unless the owner knows you want to and why.

I liked the name so much I bought a Broader C4, and It impressed me so much I bought a second one.

Hey Jay. I understand these are constant pressure valve bodies, but is there any variance at all in pressure at, say, RPM points of Idle, 4000rpm, 8000rpm?

Thanks for explaining the flare issues. The background music from the Meters Cissy Strut was lagniappe bruh, nice taste in funk my man

Love your videos. What is your process to clean the parts? Looks more than just a hot tank

Do you do any 1989 aod valve body updates

100%

The pressure regulator uses a feedback type of control where the spring is pushing against the valve and the fluid pressure on the end of the valve. When the valve bore is worn the required oil to the end of the valve bleeds off the pressure and the valve won't regulate correctly. The oil to the end of the valve is fed through a small orifice usually .040 inch which may work new but not if the bore is worn. A drilled-out larger orifice would help to make up for the bleed off and allow the regulator to control better as the spring now has fluid pressure to push against. I have seen this problem in other pressure regulators. The orifice in this application is there to help stabilize the regulator pressure. Might be worth a try.

I always learn something new from your videos. Thank you.

Great info I have 79 f150 C6 won’t shift I have to release the gas in order to shift to second gear I replace modulator then shop put a new also replace trans fluid and filter no change…before I have a 400 engine could this be a problem than you

Made in THE USA!!🇺🇸🇺🇸

I have a 1964 C4 valve body out of a 1964 Mercury Comet, it is different than the 65-66 valve bodies and has different hydraulic circuits. It was the first C4 that was made before the later 65-66 C4 transmissions. It is the only one I have ever seen and I don't know if it is rare or not, I have never tried using it in a transmission. It is a C4AP-7A101

Thanks for the information. I am modifying mine.

An old drag racer back in the 70s came up with a good idea I always thought would catch on but never did apparently was a transmission fluid health indicator. It was simple and looked really neat. On the dashboard of his Camero he had a 6 inch Pyrex tube with a 12 volt lightbulb behind it in a metal box and ran transmission fluid from the cooler line through it. He would check it on every pass. If the fluid looked clear red he kept racing. If it started going dark and murky he would stop racing to save his transmission from damage or burning up. I am surprised it did not catch on as a lot of transmissions could be saved when caught early. 😊

Also it really helps to leave the parts in if in the future you want to convert the transmission back to automatic operation. I did this recently. I bought a rebuilt race C4, took out the manual valve body, removed the modulator freeze plug installed the modulator, pin and valve, put sealing rings in, installed the governor, and automatic valve body and it was back to automatic operation.

I always learn something from your videos. I watch all of them. Thanks.😊

I want to know who's leaving in 2nd gear and @ what RPM ? And whats your rear end gear ? That would make My 1st gear ratio 5.67 😳

Nice product. How much Horsepower can a built C4 take if properly built? Have a great weekend. 👍

Jay, I used to work at Marlin Firearms years ago. Instead of programming endmills to make the numbers, or hammering them with number stamps. Your Serial Number Solution could be done by using a Laser Etching Machine. The software can be integrated into your Business Records Software to include Product, Settings, and Purchaser. Just a suggestion. Good Luck with your designs, and continued success with bringing the Counterfeiters to their knees. *Edit* You can also burn in an individual QR Code so Cellphones can pull up the info.

I laughed out loud at 3:35!!!!

No real comment beyond love your parts. Helps my c4 last a lot longer

See about doing a part that does away with the need for any factory valve body parts.

2nd gear C4 is like those 2 speed T400's.

Do a video on all the weak points on a C4 that keep it from being good for 3,000+hp.

Very interested in a forward pattern trans brake valve body.

Sounds like nodular iron material

How about using epoxy here.

Build him a 400 turbo with a Ford Ultra bell and you never see him again.

love ya videos, spewin ya not doing the forward pattern early c6 mvb but as you said in email cores are hard to get. regards Dave from Australia

Keep on keeping on my man. Loving your work from down under here in Australia.

Do you put serial numbers on your parts now? And I know guys running TH400's that transbrake in second to calm the car down when the track is a little tricky.

A 65 66 C4 Valve body will work in a later C4 case with minor modifications. I have been running a 65 valve body in a 74 case for 10 years no problem. You can have automatic 1-2-3 or 2-3 shift. I use the 2-3 shift in my 427 W hotrod most of the time as I don't need low gear with the light weight and 427 W power. Never thought about a trans brake in second gear, but it could be useful on some race applications.

I would guess there are a lot of these C5 valve bodies laying around. I have one here out in the parts pile that I have never used. I think you may have a winner. But I would put a serial number on each one so they can be tracked. Only one serial number per kit would help to identify the real ones. There can only be one unique number per unit.

No gasket?

You know if the tci 421100 bypasses the release side?? Would a different solenoid help with flare or no?

A clean neutral would have my vote over a 1/2 but honestly id incorporate both a clean neutral and the 1/2 leave option. Same as most pro type 400 valve bodies.

I just bought one of these from Summit. KIDDING!!!

The question is: how many 2nd gear trans brakes do you really think will sell? You know how it goes, guys say they want something but then when it comes time they are nowhere to be found. If only a handful of guys actually step up then it's not worth it because it won't even cover the development costs. You would want to do this on a pre-order basis. Get 100 or so guys to pony up the money (or at least a deposit) then build them.

I see no need for a 2nd gear trans brake