A common problem you missed is that sometimes the latch on the rear hatch won’t disengage or you have to press the button a couple times for it to open. That’s the problem my car currently has and I know of others with the same problem
i have driven a nismo 370z for over 3 years now (as my daily) and have not encounter a single one of these problems. gas pump issues? stop riding around on E. the range is inaccurate? it’s inaccurate in every car. you have paint chips on the front of your hood?….. maybe stop following people so closely. sounds like these issues are operator errors and not the car’s fault. my nismo 370z has been absolutely PERFECT. side note: just cause the car will drift and do 150 doesn’t mean you should do it often. protect your investment, don’t destroy it. wash and wax often and your paint will look better than any car on the road.
200-220degree oil temps are completely NORMAL and nothing to be concerned with. Earlier 370zs didn’t have a factory cooler and would hover around 240-260 regularly that’s an issue but your nismo is equipped with a factory cooler which is adequate for normal driving and light track duty. If your going to be romping on it and auto crossing over and over without stopping you will need a better cooler but otherwise a couple passes with time to cool down in between will be perfectly fine. I have a 19 nismo and my oil temp stays around 200 with spirited driving it goes up to 220 and that’s it. You want your oil at this temp, too much cooling and you’ll get condensation build up in the oil which would be a bad thing.
For the fuel reading issue, its most likely misreading because the rods broke off from the top hat on the fuel pump assembly and that bottom portion of the fuel pump doesn’t have support so it may lean inside the tank which causes that misread. Hope this helps
as someone whos getting a 370z and especially as my first sports car im pretty woried about reliability, but this really assured me that its not that bad because people make it seem like its not reliable at all when most these problems are just cheap fixes and maintenence
I have an 09 Sport + Touring in mint condition that I love as my daily. My dream would be a Nismo with a twin turbo setup. Pricey but IMO more unique and raw than a GTR.
I want this car, but not sure about putting a down payment to put another down payment to fix the CSC issue or any other issue. I have an Accord and drove an Acura. Other option would be a Tundra
You are totally right about the fuel problem! I encountered once when I autoX my 370z! I have 1/3 fuel on car and after a very sharp right turn, my car suddenly died! Slowing down and came to a full stop ON THE TRACK! I was speechless and scared to death at the time because there was another car on the course. Luckly there was a guy from my tunnning shop at the scene, help me figured out the problem and got someone delivery some gas to restart my car. After years I still can't understand why they designed the fuel system this way though
I have a 10' 370z and the steering wheel lock scared me. I was stranded for hours trying to figure out the issue. I honestly don't know how I figured it out but thank goodness it was as easy as pulling the fuse out.
I currently own a 2018 370z. I used to daily Hondas and Acuras so it's tragic having to deal with these looming problems. Blown away by how many expensive fixes there are with this car just to get it to be reliable. Update: So far the car hasn’t given me any trouble
Still have it? How’s it holding up? Hopefully not much of any real issues. I have Accord and had an Acura. I’m not sure I wanna drop a down payment to do another down payment to fix the CSC or any other issue. Just like you. My other option is a Tundra
@@Xilent1 So far it has been a pleasure to own. I haven't had a single problem. Total it has 112k miles on it, of which I've put 10k. It hasn't burned any oil in any of the intervals, and the CSC hasn't failed either. I've read that as long as you replace the fluids in a timely manner the CSC shouldn't give you any issues. The car has been good to me, touch wood. If anyone else comments on this post later on, I'll give an update. So far, so good.
@@bane1667hows it holding up as of now ? buying a 2013 370z this week with 100k miles. Ive read lots and seen most models around this mileage have problems with the gallery gasket, have you had a problem with it yet?
@@zach-vh6sxCar hasn't been showing any symptoms of a bad gallery gasket. Although my valve cover gasket may be going bad. I noticed a bit of oil in one of the spark plug wells when I changed all 6 of them out. Not a concerning amount of oil, but I may replace the gasket if I start having any misfire issues. At 117,000 miles now.
Good to know about these issues. I just bought my first Z. It’s a one owner 2010 370z Roadster Touring with 27,500 miles. It has the 7 speed automatic transmission with the paddle shifters 😎.
Thanks. Amazing video! Shopping around for a 370 and this is really helpful. One more issue I've read about is ice mode where the brakes lose braking power partially under hard driving because the car thinks it hit an ice patch
YES! Most of this has happened to my 2009 370z (the clutch slave left me stranded being the worst) and some even in my 350z (stupid clicking rear wheel bearings was the worst). Wish I knew all this earlier. Do what he says! Great job!
I’ve been driving variations of this motor for 13 years the only issue I’ve seen consistently is the CSC everything else seems to be people beating on them and not being able to or willing to spend the $ on preventative maintenance
Hey man. Im changing my bushings because they are blown. Im changing them om saturday. It is gonna be a hard challenge because i have to take off the rear bumper so it is a lot easier to get to. But i did the throttle body and sensor cleaner. Whenever i would start my car i would have to rev it to not get it in limp mode. After i cleaned it, it has never done it again. So happy with it now. And also my car over heats so badly. 2014 370z. Im going to get the oil cooler you mentioned. Thank you
@@adamgalindo Thank you man. I finished the bushings and they took about 12 and a half hours. The car runs so smoothly now. It is so smooth and the instant torque is crazy. I really recommend the z1 performance bushings. They are a dark blue color. But if I have to do it again it is going to a shop because the amount of space in there is so limited. But other than the hard parts it was a good learning experience.
Haha swift coils was my first mod since buying my z a year ago. I baby it and take really good care of it. The CSC failed on me at 44000km so i bought the z1 csc elimination kit and installed it myself (2nd mod) and went with a midweight flywheel and full face sprung hub clutch being my 3rd mod. Also bought an after market shifter just because. I personally prefer a stiffer clutch pedal. It drives like a dream and i don't think I'll ever sell it. Next is going to be cat back exhaust and cold air intake long tube.
Are you sponsored by Z1 motorsports? Lol. Owned my Z since 2018, ran into the CCSC failure a year later after buying it. Very informative, praying I don’t run into any of these issues soon, just hit 100k mi.
You forgot a big one. From 2009-2012 the gallery gaskets are known to go bad and cause the engine to blow up. This issue can be fixed by getting the upgrade bolts and gaskets that fix the issue.
I didn’t actually change the clutch, I changed the clutch pedal assembly. It was a bit tough for me since it was the first real mod I did on a car but is not actually that bad
One issue that wasnt included, Gallery Gaskets. These only affect 2009-2011 models, a gasket fails around 165,000km which causes oil to leak internally, leading to lack of oil pressure and lubrication, later killing your engine. The only fix it to replace the paper gasket with a metal one. You can delay this by keeping your engine cool as much as possible, im currently at 190,000km with no gasket issues yet
Should we unplug the fuse before we get any issues on steering wheel or if we unplug when it fails and locks, does it still work? And what are we losing with unplugging the fuse?🙏🏻 (2012 370z phase1 )
I believe 2012 shouldn’t have the issue anymore, at least not as common. But if you were worried about it you could pull the fuse now and the only thing it does is make your steering wheel always be in the unlocked position which isn’t really a problem
I had my 2009 Z with 16k miles for over year, ran into the CSC problem, fixed that, now my 5th gear has been grinding, I replaced the fluid with redline MT, it’s still doing it and now my first gear is sticking, will I better off buying a new trans or getting rebuilt or just buy a used trans? Thanks..
K well if you loose clutch fluid then its the csc. If you foot pedal is on the floor and you can pump it up and no fluid loss then it is the clutch master cylinder.
Witht he rear differntial bushing once it tears over time it will leak out. instead of replacing it you can always inject some 2 part epoxy in the top and the bottom and then let it set and harden and you will have fixed that problem permantly for about 5 bucks. I've known several G and Z owner channels of youtube who have done it and its worked well and last for years.
what about the so called " gallery gasket issue?" supposedly,when it starts to leak, u loose ur oil pressure and the engine is toast. why is that not mentioned? is it no longer an issue with later models? if so which yrs had the problem and which didnt.. also, does the clutch slave issue exist even in the later models or only on the initial yrs? thanks!
That is an issue but did not know about it at the time of the video. I believe it’s more common in the earlier models. I believe clutch slave issue can happen on any of the years
Door handles!!! Over time the lock mechanism in the door handles will begin to seize. You'll unlock your car but the door will remain locked. Z motorsport sells new handles, always replace them before the actuator
Common Problems: Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Failure: Symptoms: Clutch pedal stays depressed, difficulty shifting gears Prevention: Regularly check and maintain clutch fluid levels, use DOT 4 brake fluid instead of DOT 3 Rear Axle Click: Symptoms: Clicking sound from the rear wheels when turning or accelerating Prevention: Replace the axle nut with a specially-designed aftermarket one that has locks built in Fuel Starvation: Symptoms: Engine sputters when driving Prevention: Keep the fuel tank at least a quarter full, consider installing baffles in the tank Steering Wheel Lock: Symptoms: Steering wheel doesn't unlock, car won't start Prevention: Replace the electronic steering control lockout module, or remove the steering wheel lock fuse as a temporary fix High Oil Consumption: Symptoms: Engine burns oil, ticking or knocking noises Prevention: Regularly check oil levels, perform oil changes, consider installing an oil catch can Oil Galley Gasket Failure (Pre-2013 models): Symptoms: Oil pressure drop, potential engine damage Prevention: Inspect and replace gaskets if necessary, especially if the car is pre-2013 Rear Hatch Issues: Symptoms: Hatch doesn't open correctly or stay open Prevention: Replace rear hatch lift springs with revised parts Clutch Master Cylinder Failure: Symptoms: Clutch pedal goes to the floor, difficulty shifting gears Prevention: Regularly check and maintain clutch fluid levels, replace the master cylinder if needed Exhaust and Catalytic Converter Issues: Symptoms: Rattling noises, reduced performance. Prevention: Regular inspections and maintenance, replace parts as needed. Electrical Issues: Symptoms: Various electrical malfunctions. Prevention: Regularly check and maintain electrical connections, replace faulty components. The "ice mode" issue: During aggressive driving or track use. This occurs when the ABS system mistakenly reduces braking pressure, thinking the car is on an icy surface, leading to a temporary loss of braking power. Possible Solutions: 1. **Brake Cooling**: Ensure your brakes are adequately cooled. Overheating can trigger ice mode, so using high-performance brake pads and rotors, along with proper cooling ducts, can help manage temperatures better. 2. **Brake Fluid**: Use high-temperature brake fluid to prevent boiling, which can also contribute to the issue. Regularly bleeding the brakes to remove any air bubbles is crucial. 3. **ABS System Check**: Have a professional check the ABS sensors and system. Sometimes, recalibrating or updating the ABS software can mitigate the problem. 4. **Driving Technique**: Adjusting your driving style to avoid prolonged hard braking can help. Instead, use shorter, more controlled braking inputs. 5. **Aftermarket Solutions**: Some owners have found success with aftermarket ABS modules or tuning solutions that modify the ABS behavior to be less sensitive.
I have a 2010 370z with 80k miles on it. My convertible top quit working. Nissan wanted 10k to repair with no guarantee it would work. Looking for advice on what to do. Thank you
That’s pricey. Have you asked a local shop for a quote? If I was in your situation I would probably just live with it and pretend it’s a coupe since I couldn’t justify 10k for that
Mines gave out while I was daily driving it. I always heard these things give out close to the 20,000-30,000 Mile range BEFORE I purchased mine new in 2016. Went to a independent Nissan specialist when it happened and they replaced it with a Z1 motor sports system. I thought that was common knowledge when it happened to me in 2018. No other issues though.
@@SuperCVelocity yea my 2016 z’s csc gave out around the same mileage but mainly after track use. The clutch pedal got stuck to the bottom during a highway drive, but nothing scary, just had to force lift it. Got it replaced with the z speed cmak v2 kit and it was good after that.
thanks for so much info given. i hope you can assist me. i have a 2009 FX35 rwd, suv, that needs the DIFF. bushing. Do you know if the one that is sold by z1 motor, will fit? i was told that it may not be a fit for the 2009 fx. Not sure why, though. Your reply will be appreciated. thnx.
Door lock actuator- $100 for one off ebay. Evidently it’s a common Nissan Infinity problem affecting nearly every model… Paint: clear bra went on my Z 9 years ago - expensive but worth every $ Fuel pump replacement on my Z at 70k miles - one day it just wouldn’t start. Symptoms- it started getting louder and louder like an aftermarket pump… then intermittent no start then it just wouldn’t start at all… Maf cleaning is a must… stay away from the stupid drop in filters and go with z1 long tube intakes or leave it all stock
At the time of my comment, there's a 2016 Nismo 7AT with like 90k for 30k out the door, and literally the only reason I have to pass on it is because I don't have indoor parking atm :(
@@adamgalindo If you live in a snow city, like I do (Chicago), the stock tires on the Nismo turn into bowling balls at snow or below temperatures. On level streets, I am barely moved 5 mph when this happens. I had to replace my OEM summer tires with Michelin A/S 3+, which are good for both summer and winter but not great for either.
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What other issues have you ran into with your Z?
A common problem you missed is that sometimes the latch on the rear hatch won’t disengage or you have to press the button a couple times for it to open. That’s the problem my car currently has and I know of others with the same problem
You’re right I have that problem occasionally too
5th grinding on my 2009 with only 17k miles…
Factory hatch poppers suck and should be replaced with z1 heavy duty ones
i have driven a nismo 370z for over 3 years now (as my daily) and have not encounter a single one of these problems. gas pump issues? stop riding around on E. the range is inaccurate? it’s inaccurate in every car. you have paint chips on the front of your hood?….. maybe stop following people so closely. sounds like these issues are operator errors and not the car’s fault. my nismo 370z has been absolutely PERFECT. side note: just cause the car will drift and do 150 doesn’t mean you should do it often. protect your investment, don’t destroy it. wash and wax often and your paint will look better than any car on the road.
Investment 😂😂😂😂😂
@@Burnout9388investment might not be the correct word but I understand what he is saying
@@apache1120 Absolutely….. Take care of your pride and joy. You’ve worked hard to enjoy it 👍🏻🤣 Was just jesting
Well the price of these cars right now are pretty high compared to what you think it should be
Yeahhhh no, I’m gonna drive my car like I want to. Also the paint is notoriously shitty, you’re just wrong
200-220degree oil temps are completely NORMAL and nothing to be concerned with. Earlier 370zs didn’t have a factory cooler and would hover around 240-260 regularly that’s an issue but your nismo is equipped with a factory cooler which is adequate for normal driving and light track duty. If your going to be romping on it and auto crossing over and over without stopping you will need a better cooler but otherwise a couple passes with time to cool down in between will be perfectly fine. I have a 19 nismo and my oil temp stays around 200 with spirited driving it goes up to 220 and that’s it. You want your oil at this temp, too much cooling and you’ll get condensation build up in the oil which would be a bad thing.
For the fuel reading issue, its most likely misreading because the rods broke off from the top hat on the fuel pump assembly and that bottom portion of the fuel pump doesn’t have support so it may lean inside the tank which causes that misread. Hope this helps
as someone whos getting a 370z and especially as my first sports car im pretty woried about reliability, but this really assured me that its not that bad because people make it seem like its not reliable at all when most these problems are just cheap fixes and maintenence
Enjoy my z. Just purchased last October. Very good points about the z. Always fill your tank back up when you get to the halfway mark!
I have an 09 Sport + Touring in mint condition that I love as my daily. My dream would be a Nismo with a twin turbo setup. Pricey but IMO more unique and raw than a GTR.
I want this car, but not sure about putting a down payment to put another down payment to fix the CSC issue or any other issue. I have an Accord and drove an Acura. Other option would be a Tundra
Always appreciate these kind of videos, you never know the downsides to things
You are totally right about the fuel problem! I encountered once when I autoX my 370z! I have 1/3 fuel on car and after a very sharp right turn, my car suddenly died! Slowing down and came to a full stop ON THE TRACK! I was speechless and scared to death at the time because there was another car on the course. Luckly there was a guy from my tunnning shop at the scene, help me figured out the problem and got someone delivery some gas to restart my car. After years I still can't understand why they designed the fuel system this way though
I have a 10' 370z and the steering wheel lock scared me. I was stranded for hours trying to figure out the issue. I honestly don't know how I figured it out but thank goodness it was as easy as pulling the fuse out.
I currently own a 2018 370z. I used to daily Hondas and Acuras so it's tragic having to deal with these looming problems. Blown away by how many expensive fixes there are with this car just to get it to be reliable.
Update: So far the car hasn’t given me any trouble
Still have it? How’s it holding up? Hopefully not much of any real issues. I have Accord and had an Acura. I’m not sure I wanna drop a down payment to do another down payment to fix the CSC or any other issue. Just like you. My other option is a Tundra
@@Xilent1 So far it has been a pleasure to own. I haven't had a single problem. Total it has 112k miles on it, of which I've put 10k. It hasn't burned any oil in any of the intervals, and the CSC hasn't failed either. I've read that as long as you replace the fluids in a timely manner the CSC shouldn't give you any issues. The car has been good to me, touch wood.
If anyone else comments on this post later on, I'll give an update. So far, so good.
@@bane1667hows it holding up as of now ? buying a 2013 370z this week with 100k miles. Ive read lots and seen most models around this mileage have problems with the gallery gasket, have you had a problem with it yet?
@@zach-vh6sxCar hasn't been showing any symptoms of a bad gallery gasket. Although my valve cover gasket may be going bad. I noticed a bit of oil in one of the spark plug wells when I changed all 6 of them out. Not a concerning amount of oil, but I may replace the gasket if I start having any misfire issues. At 117,000 miles now.
@bane1667 2018 has the upgraded metal gallery gasket. You won't have any issues with it, unlike pre-2014 cars with the fiber gasket.
Good to know about these issues. I just bought my first Z. It’s a one owner 2010 370z Roadster Touring with 27,500 miles. It has the 7 speed automatic transmission with the paddle shifters 😎.
Congrats man hope you enjoy the car!
2014 sport here. Broke 2 oem csc’s. Went with a JWT clutch and there heavy duty CSC and it’s great!
Wow at how many miles did it break each time?
Thanks. Amazing video! Shopping around for a 370 and this is really helpful. One more issue I've read about is ice mode where the brakes lose braking power partially under hard driving because the car thinks it hit an ice patch
How to solve this
@@mrardiizah6542 Wish I knew :( supposedly it only happens in some cars and sometimes and usually when you track it
YES! Most of this has happened to my 2009 370z (the clutch slave left me stranded being the worst) and some even in my 350z (stupid clicking rear wheel bearings was the worst). Wish I knew all this earlier. Do what he says! Great job!
I’ve been driving variations of this motor for 13 years the only issue I’ve seen consistently is the CSC everything else seems to be people beating on them and not being able to or willing to spend the $ on preventative maintenance
man this is a great video ive never seen all of these put together into one video.
Appreciate that man! 🙏
Thinking of getting a Nismo v2. Thanks a bunch for this informative video. Happy New Year.
Happy new year! 🎊
v1>
Hey man. Im changing my bushings because they are blown. Im changing them om saturday. It is gonna be a hard challenge because i have to take off the rear bumper so it is a lot easier to get to. But i did the throttle body and sensor cleaner. Whenever i would start my car i would have to rev it to not get it in limp mode. After i cleaned it, it has never done it again. So happy with it now. And also my car over heats so badly. 2014 370z. Im going to get the oil cooler you mentioned. Thank you
Hey man I literally just cleaned my throttle bodies and MAF sensors as well and can feel my car running smoother. Good luck on the bushings!
@@adamgalindo Thank you man. I finished the bushings and they took about 12 and a half hours. The car runs so smoothly now. It is so smooth and the instant torque is crazy. I really recommend the z1 performance bushings. They are a dark blue color. But if I have to do it again it is going to a shop because the amount of space in there is so limited. But other than the hard parts it was a good learning experience.
Wow 12 1/2 hours! That’s insane, don’t think I would ever want to do that myself
Bro this is soo accurate! The hard right turn and fuel starvation… I’ve had this issue a couple of times
Haha swift coils was my first mod since buying my z a year ago. I baby it and take really good care of it. The CSC failed on me at 44000km so i bought the z1 csc elimination kit and installed it myself (2nd mod) and went with a midweight flywheel and full face sprung hub clutch being my 3rd mod. Also bought an after market shifter just because. I personally prefer a stiffer clutch pedal. It drives like a dream and i don't think I'll ever sell it. Next is going to be cat back exhaust and cold air intake long tube.
Forgot to mention I put on 20" Niche Vice wheels. Love em
Front body paint put 3m clear protection. It does a great job.
Are you sponsored by Z1 motorsports? Lol. Owned my Z since 2018, ran into the CCSC failure a year later after buying it. Very informative, praying I don’t run into any of these issues soon, just hit 100k mi.
Haha I wish but no just my go-to place for parts. 2 1/2 years into ownership and haven’t ran into the CSC failure yet. I’m hoping it stays that way
You forgot a big one. From 2009-2012 the gallery gaskets are known to go bad and cause the engine to blow up. This issue can be fixed by getting the upgrade bolts and gaskets that fix the issue.
Was it difficult changing your clutch? I agree with you about the oem clutch being difficult to drive with so I’d like to change.
I didn’t actually change the clutch, I changed the clutch pedal assembly. It was a bit tough for me since it was the first real mod I did on a car but is not actually that bad
That Z Company should sponsor whole build free advertising this is.
Thx for info
I wish haha
My rear bushing failed before my first oil change,
Z1 products are sub par.
The sensor on my trunk is faulty so the dash light for it is always on at this point. trunk is very much closed
Love the grind on the videos!!!
Appreciate the constant support! 🙏
One issue that wasnt included, Gallery Gaskets. These only affect 2009-2011 models, a gasket fails around 165,000km which causes oil to leak internally, leading to lack of oil pressure and lubrication, later killing your engine. The only fix it to replace the paper gasket with a metal one. You can delay this by keeping your engine cool as much as possible, im currently at 190,000km with no gasket issues yet
So anything before 09 is good? This wouldn’t happen to an 06?
@@marrrrcoo For the 350z, this affects the HR models only
‘19 Zed sport manual here….Has ANYONE had issues with the MAF sensors getting dirty/fouled often?
Should we unplug the fuse before we get any issues on steering wheel or if we unplug when it fails and locks, does it still work? And what are we losing with unplugging the fuse?🙏🏻 (2012 370z phase1 )
I believe 2012 shouldn’t have the issue anymore, at least not as common. But if you were worried about it you could pull the fuse now and the only thing it does is make your steering wheel always be in the unlocked position which isn’t really a problem
@@adamgalindo thnx a lot🙏🏻 I didn’t know that 2012s have any kinda hidden makeups/differents from 2009-2011 models. Nice to know🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I had my 2009 Z with 16k miles for over year, ran into the CSC problem, fixed that, now my 5th gear has been grinding, I replaced the fluid with redline MT, it’s still doing it and now my first gear is sticking, will I better off buying a new trans or getting rebuilt or just buy a used trans? Thanks..
K well if you loose clutch fluid then its the csc. If you foot pedal is on the floor and you can pump it up and no fluid loss then it is the clutch master cylinder.
Witht he rear differntial bushing once it tears over time it will leak out. instead of replacing it you can always inject some 2 part epoxy in the top and the bottom and then let it set and harden and you will have fixed that problem permantly for about 5 bucks. I've known several G and Z owner channels of youtube who have done it and its worked well and last for years.
I have had next to No problem s with my 370 NISMO Z.
what about the so called " gallery gasket issue?" supposedly,when it starts to leak, u loose ur oil pressure and the engine is toast.
why is that not mentioned? is it no longer an issue with later models? if so which yrs had the problem and which didnt.. also, does the clutch slave issue exist even in the later models or only on the initial yrs? thanks!
That is an issue but did not know about it at the time of the video. I believe it’s more common in the earlier models. I believe clutch slave issue can happen on any of the years
Door handles!!! Over time the lock mechanism in the door handles will begin to seize. You'll unlock your car but the door will remain locked. Z motorsport sells new handles, always replace them before the actuator
Common Problems:
Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Failure:
Symptoms: Clutch pedal stays depressed, difficulty shifting gears
Prevention: Regularly check and maintain clutch fluid levels, use DOT 4 brake fluid instead of DOT 3
Rear Axle Click:
Symptoms: Clicking sound from the rear wheels when turning or accelerating
Prevention: Replace the axle nut with a specially-designed aftermarket one that has locks built in
Fuel Starvation:
Symptoms: Engine sputters when driving
Prevention: Keep the fuel tank at least a quarter full, consider installing baffles in the tank
Steering Wheel Lock:
Symptoms: Steering wheel doesn't unlock, car won't start
Prevention: Replace the electronic steering control lockout module, or remove the steering wheel lock fuse as a temporary fix
High Oil Consumption:
Symptoms: Engine burns oil, ticking or knocking noises
Prevention: Regularly check oil levels, perform oil changes, consider installing an oil catch can
Oil Galley Gasket Failure (Pre-2013 models):
Symptoms: Oil pressure drop, potential engine damage
Prevention: Inspect and replace gaskets if necessary, especially if the car is pre-2013
Rear Hatch Issues:
Symptoms: Hatch doesn't open correctly or stay open
Prevention: Replace rear hatch lift springs with revised parts
Clutch Master Cylinder Failure:
Symptoms: Clutch pedal goes to the floor, difficulty shifting gears
Prevention: Regularly check and maintain clutch fluid levels, replace the master cylinder if needed
Exhaust and Catalytic Converter Issues:
Symptoms: Rattling noises, reduced performance.
Prevention: Regular inspections and maintenance, replace parts as needed.
Electrical Issues:
Symptoms: Various electrical malfunctions.
Prevention: Regularly check and maintain electrical connections, replace faulty components.
The "ice mode" issue:
During aggressive driving or track use. This occurs when the ABS system mistakenly reduces braking pressure, thinking the car is on an icy surface, leading to a temporary loss of braking power.
Possible Solutions:
1. **Brake Cooling**: Ensure your brakes are adequately cooled. Overheating can trigger ice mode, so using high-performance brake pads and rotors, along with proper cooling ducts, can help manage temperatures better.
2. **Brake Fluid**: Use high-temperature brake fluid to prevent boiling, which can also contribute to the issue. Regularly bleeding the brakes to remove any air bubbles is crucial.
3. **ABS System Check**: Have a professional check the ABS sensors and system. Sometimes, recalibrating or updating the ABS software can mitigate the problem.
4. **Driving Technique**: Adjusting your driving style to avoid prolonged hard braking can help. Instead, use shorter, more controlled braking inputs.
5. **Aftermarket Solutions**: Some owners have found success with aftermarket ABS modules or tuning solutions that modify the ABS behavior to be less sensitive.
I have a 2010 370z with 80k miles on it. My convertible top quit working. Nissan wanted 10k to repair with no guarantee it would work. Looking for advice on what to do. Thank you
That’s pricey. Have you asked a local shop for a quote? If I was in your situation I would probably just live with it and pretend it’s a coupe since I couldn’t justify 10k for that
@@adamgalindo that is what I have been doing. But I live in Florida and would love to take the top down.
@@mikebennett6713aceadventuresthis is why you go with hard top 😞
Seen some people mention 2nd gear problems
What specifically? Never ran into that
thats the 400z
I used a Tilton Clutch setup
The only real major issue of the Z is the CSC and overheating on the track, besides that, its pretty reliable.
Mines gave out while I was daily driving it. I always heard these things give out close to the 20,000-30,000 Mile range BEFORE I purchased mine new in 2016. Went to a independent Nissan specialist when it happened and they replaced it with a Z1 motor sports system. I thought that was common knowledge when it happened to me in 2018. No other issues though.
@@SuperCVelocity yea my 2016 z’s csc gave out around the same mileage but mainly after track use. The clutch pedal got stuck to the bottom during a highway drive, but nothing scary, just had to force lift it. Got it replaced with the z speed cmak v2 kit and it was good after that.
Nice car 😊
Great video 🫡✌🏼
Appreciate it 🙏
thanks for so much info given. i hope you can assist me. i have a 2009 FX35 rwd, suv, that needs the DIFF. bushing. Do you know if the one that is sold by z1 motor, will fit? i was told that it may not be a fit for the 2009 fx. Not sure why, though. Your reply will be appreciated. thnx.
Probably not. It’s likely better to just go with the original bushings sold by a dealer or online
Door lock actuator- $100 for one off ebay. Evidently it’s a common Nissan Infinity problem affecting nearly every model…
Paint: clear bra went on my Z 9 years ago - expensive but worth every $
Fuel pump replacement on my Z at 70k miles - one day it just wouldn’t start. Symptoms- it started getting louder and louder like an aftermarket pump… then intermittent no start then it just wouldn’t start at all…
Maf cleaning is a must… stay away from the stupid drop in filters and go with z1 long tube intakes or leave it all stock
At the time of my comment, there's a 2016 Nismo 7AT with like 90k for 30k out the door, and literally the only reason I have to pass on it is because I don't have indoor parking atm :(
Damn that sucks. Do you live in a place where it snows?
z1 elimination kit is not worth it , it broke 2 times on me , i recommend zspeed v2 csc
Really? Good to know. Did you install it yourself?
Oil gallery gasket brodie
I have friend with a 370z that shuts off when u put it in reverse and jerks back an fort when you moving off and when you about to stop….
Weird, not sure what causes that
Needs to check crank shaft sensors
The clutch "Plastic Thing"....someone should be able to 3D prototype this in aluminum??
Was thinking about getting a 2010 370z convertible with only 50k, but after all this bull, especially with the tranny I’m keeping my old Celica GTS
What causes the engine stop button to switch the dashboard off but the engine continues to run
That’s strange is that happening to you? Never heard of that
Snow traction
What about snow traction?
@@adamgalindo If you live in a snow city, like I do (Chicago), the stock tires on the Nismo turn into bowling balls at snow or below temperatures. On level streets, I am barely moved 5 mph when this happens. I had to replace my OEM summer tires with Michelin A/S 3+, which are good for both summer and winter but not great for either.
Why are there so many problems with this car? Shouldn’t Nissan fix those things?
Sounds like a headache !
Get a clirwerp
So your trying to say buy one 😅
Yes 😂
Why would any1 want one of these? Seems to be a garbage car no matter what ill stick to honda and acura.
slow down....
Typical nissan crap. All of that money needs to be spent.. totally rediculius.