I altered your steps, with success. Thanks for the thoughtful repair video. My steps: 1. Remove the sparkplug, as you did, then added 100% Marvel Mystery Oil. Soak overnight. Did NOT reinsert the plug. Soak plug in MMO 2. With the plug out I was able to hand turn the flywheel slightly counterclockwise. I continued to hand turn to loosen. 3. I made the mistake of pulling the cord hard, a stream of MMO came out. 4. Drain all MMO and oil. Add new oil. 5. Reassemble. 6 Started on 1st pull
I followed these instructions to a tee with my ceased Echo SRM 210. The pull cord loosened and I started it up. After 30 seconds it slowed down and shut off and was ceased up again. I can’t figure out why. I heard you mention something about the gas/oil mixture being too lean. I was using the Home Depot premix 50:1 (red can) for weeks with no problem. Then I switched to the premium 50:1 (silver can) and that’s when it ceased. However, for this fix, I emptied the silver can mix and refilled with the red can mix and it ceased again. This is frustrating. Can’t figure this out. Help please!
@@HNDSME247 mix your own fuel or run a can that has more oil in it l. 50 to 1 is incredibly lean and I believe was created just for emissions I honestly believe there's not enough oil in a 50 to 1 mix remember the first part is fuel the second part is oil so 50 parts fuel to 1 Part oil try a heavier mix 40 to 1 or heavier I wouldn't go much heavier than a 32 to one though that's getting a little heavy for "modern" 2 stroke
Thank you so much for this video. I was going to buy a new echo weed eater today because my old Echo SRM 150 was seized up as well. Didn't realize it was such an easy fix. I didn't even have to let mine sit over night. I poured in the diesel and oil mix and had the whole thing back to running in about 15 minutes. I'm using more oil in my mixture now. Thanks so much. Chad
Thank you!! Used this technique with GREAT SUCCESS! I used a 50/50% mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and diesel fuel and after letting it soak for 24 hours was able to turn the motor with relative ease Your trick of putting a nut on the threaded shaft made it that much easier.
works like a charm. I didn't have diesel. so I used 2 stroke, and wd-40. I removed the pull crank and sprayed wd around the shalf and a bit where the spark plug is. let it sit for 30-40minutes and wiggled it around. and we're good to go. thanks a lot on the video.
Awesome Video! I just went to a yard sale Sunday and a guy had 3 echo 210 weed wackers on a tarp so I asked how much for a weed whacker. He said $15.00 for all of them.So I said I only wanted one. He said I had to take All 3.So I did. Well two are seized so And one I just added fuel and it started right up. I even weed whacked most of the yard just playing around with it. Anyway I wasn't sure what to do with the seized ones until now! Thanks! Now I can fix them and sell them for $30.00 each!
This video saved me from having to buy a new weed eater . Thanks for the knowledge. I did do a big mess up before thinking to research this topic, I didnt think to take the string retractor off so I yanked the string while i wedged the handle on a ladder rack attavhed to my truck . Ima see whats the damage tonight . Wish me luck 🤞
Great training video! l may have the same problem. Fresh oil and new gas 1st time this season in a Craftsman 4 cyl gas weedwacker model 358.796160. It pulled jerky twice then cord wont pull at all. Does your approach apply to 4 cyl gas engines?. I've got one part plastic cover off, to remove the spark plug. I put 100% Marvin mystery oil in the spark plug opening to loosen things up overnight. Please explain your video..the vise grips are on the crank shaft? Trying to locate that on my unit.
Really appreciate your taking us through how to fix a seized up SRM 210. Not sure if mine is seized or the starter, but now I know what to do if it is seized. Thanks.
Nice video ils, I applied the same method to my 2 year old toro power head trimmer/blower. Used wd40 & motor oil like another viewer mentioned and it SEEMED to work. I was able to loosen up the drive shaft(or crank shaft, whatever it was that wasn't turning) put it all back and was able to pull the cord and it wanted to start and then froze up again. Repeated the same steps over and over and got the same results, only this time, after a couple of attempts to start, it was making a metal on metal sound and I figured I was F'ed.Well I was right! When it froze for like the 5th time,I took a ride to a local Toro service shop to get an answer.He said 2 stroke engines are having more trouble than ever with ethanol in the gas! If it was making that metal sound, he could break it down, charge me $50 and then tell me I was F'ed! He suggested only using 89% octane(1 grade above regular gas) and GOOD oil with an FP rating(not the cheap shit from walmart) So I gave it a valiant effort and just when I wanted to write and thank you for saving me $130 and call you a genius,,,I was F'ed!.. thanks anyway
Thank you for your video we have a Poland pro same thing and within 3 hours your trick worked! Awesome we are so happy we was able to fix it. Thank you again
can u please share the ration of 2 stroke to diesel to soak into the cylinder? tks..i don't have Marvel mystery oil in Brisbane..so your tutorial will come in helpful
50/50 or 25% diesel 75% oil depends on the oil that you use you can use 2-stroke oil and I would suggest fifty-fifty with that but would prefer ATF and I would use 25-75 with that
If I pull the spark plug the pull cord pulls all the way out. With the plug installed it does not. Sometimes if I keep trying, it might pull all the way out, and I might get it started, Next time will not pull out. Repair for echo says I need to use it more. It started when I picked it up just fine. A few weeks later back to the same issue. I don't use it every week. Maybe a month will go by before I try it again. Any thoughts?
Great video. .... that engine had to get very hot to seize up like that. I've seen it happen myself in a car that tech forgot to put new oil back in. ...ooops! Great video!
I havent forgot about those canna lily seeds, my legs got broke in a wreck but I still have someone looking out for the seed pods to come up. Hope I catch them, I think they do it near the end of summer. I should be up and walking by then.
question....between 6:19 and 6:35 you removed the outer piece of the crankshaft...does that removed easily once it has soaked overnight and can be moved?
its called the starter cup and it's pretty easy to remove when the cylinder is frozen solid like this one was if you're trying to remove it when the cylinder moves freely then you're going to have to stop the cylinder in some way to get that piece off
holy crap, i took the weed whacker apart and messed with it and i think i fixed it cause it part that was stuck is turning now. but it a little rough not as smooth as it was is there any thing that you recommend like putting oil in a certain part or parts. sine im not much of a mechanic im not really sure what to do to make it run smoother.
Question How do you put back the spring that goes inside the starter? I took it apart and the parts say I-30 SRM 210 but its the same machine tha you have on the video
If this seizing is same as seizing in a chainsaw, this is what happened to me yesterday. That crankcase is stuck and will not turn, and I even broke the starter cord trying to get it started. when I fixed that, I put it back together and it was locked solid. No give. I had no idea what happened but the chainsaw did get hot for some reason. I have no idea why, but noticed one of the hoses had come loose under the carb and maybe this is why. It was smoking when I stopped it. My question is if this does not come unseized like this method, what will I have to do to fix this? Or can I fix it as most parts are not available for the chainsaw any longer? Is it very hard to take this crankcase out and look at the piston and see if it was damaged? I guess I should just try this method and if I get it unstuck, just leave it alone. But I still have to figure out why this got so hot to begin with.thanks for any input and realize I am off topic slightly as mine is chainsaw but still same issue and same stroke. It is a Stihl Farm boss 041 AV that I have and has always been a good one.
if it was being worked hard it could just simply be from not enough oil in the fuel that's why I always fix my fuel a little bit heavier than what it says for example if it says 40 to 1 which I don't know the exact mix off the top of my head but say it would be two and a half ounces of oil to 1 gallon of gas i will mix 3 ounces of oil to one of gallon gas as long as you're not belching smoke out it's totally fine. that and I stay away from the cheap 2-stroke oil I would try this method first let it soak for a while and see if you can get it to break loose. your case is a little bit harder just for the fact that it ran lean somehow and seized up due to not enough lubrication the only other way you'd be able to fix it is to get the cylinder and piston off of the bottom end and replacing them. a lot of guys say that doing this is not worth it getting it unseized and continue using it because it can be timed and only work for a short while. but the way I look at it is if I can get it to work a week a month or year more that's more use out of the machine that I would have gotten instead of just chucking it. the few that I have done personally and for customers I've had great luck with just make sure you always run a heavier mix in them.
when you say it is not worth it, what do you mean? the chainsaw can never be fixed properly or just isn't worth the cost of fixing? I was going to do (attempt) the fix myself if this doesn't work. Any idea what parts are going to be needed to fix this? I don't ever remember this seizing before, but the string from the starter would pull out sometimes like it was completely free. I would then let it go back in easily and it would catch and I could start again. This time when it came out and didn't catch, I accidentally let go of the handle and it jammed in the housing. I could not get the starter cord to catch to start so took apart and tried turning and it would not budge. I got string and handle to catch and it would not budge. Could the string going in really fast from letting go cause this? I also noticed that plastic catch was sticking causing the string to come out with any resistance. This was first sign of something bad. I do want to fix this as it is a older one that I would like to keep. It is a Stihl 041 AV Farmboss and was only run hard for maybe 10 minutes when it got really hot. thanks for any help or suggestions as I will tear this apart and replace all that needs to if this will fix it. Give it a new rebuild sort of. Please let me know what you think.Just to edit to say I got it unstuck. It clearly was not as bad as I thought. I was able to turn it with gloves on and it turned right away. I just couldn't turn it by the cord. I wonder if there is any way of cleaning out this chamber area where you are putting this liquid to lay on the piston? Mine is located on the bottom back side and if I pour anything in there, it looks like a pretty big chamber. Should I fill this chamber up with this mixture and just let it set overnight than empty it out? Might clean it out and let it spin a lot easier.
Yo Dude....u rock. was gonna buy a new one..then thought I'd just change the starter. But saw you site. One squirt of Kroil, 5 mins and a few turns on the starter pawl and it started right up......THANKS THANKS THANKS.
Question... I used this method to unfreeze the motor on a backpack leaf blower, and got it unstuck pretty easily. I used PB Blaster as the lubricant - but wonder if maybe I used too much. I did put kind of a lot in there... When I put the plug back in and try to start it it up, no luck. When I check the plug again, the end is wet. Do I just need to let the whole thing dry out for a while? Any suggestions?
Jennifer Ashbrook take the spark plug out and turn it upside down and turn it over pretty vigorously turn it over pretty quick to get as much fluid as you can and then let it sit for a while Give It 2 or 3 hours and then do that again just to get all the oils and lubricants out if it won't dry out try putting a little gasoline in there because that will help flush out what's left over
I have a Ryobi 31CC Cultivator that acts like it has a hydo-lock, which of course it don't, when the starter rope is pulled. Will hardly turn over and needless to say won't start and run. I remove the spark plug the engine then turns over freely. Any suggestions what the problem is?
If you are going to cycle the piston without a spark plug make sure the opening for the plug is cleaned up so nothing ends up falling inside. I would also consider scraping all carbon build up off the exhaust port since it can end up breaking off and scoring the piston when its not running typically during transportation. Just make sure you know the correct way to do this positioning the piston at the top of its cycle exposing the piston skirt only. I sometimes like to just pull the head off the cylinder when doing this to make sure theres no lip inside the cylinder of carbon anyways. I also replace all the gaskets when doing this and check the flywheel and the opposite side of the crankshaft making sure there is no play there. If there is its time for new crankshaft bearings and oiler seals. I would have to use a crankcase splitter tool to get it apart most times and the correct flywheel puller too. You may also want to readjust the L screw on the carb to make sure its not running to lean while attempting unseizing the top and if your removing the cylinder pour a little 2 stroke oil into the crankcase since its already open an new gaskets for the muffler, cylinder, crankcase(assuming your splitting it apart), and carburetor side. I sometimes use a butane torch to burn the muffler clean when its to invasive to open up and scrub clean with steal wool. If you think there is any chance you might not remember how to put it back together take pictures of every step you do disassembling to use as a guide for putting back together. Also Ereplacementparts.com often has diagrams of your item making it easier to figure out what goes back where.
I have a Husqvarna 125l that I believe just seized on me today . I was in the middle of trimming my yard and It stopped abruptly and will not budge . Think i'll give this a try .
worked perfect on my echo PAS266 2 yr old, last year we ran it a bit lean and it got stuck same as this video, mixed up some stihl oil and diesel in a coffee cup pour it into the chamber left it over night . then took the pull start off and bolt on the shaft turn over easy. put it back together and started up right away
. . I didn't have any diesel fuel so I used only the the Echo 2 cycle oil and used about 1/4 and I waited about a week. I used a large adjustable wrench to turn the crank and it started to turn immediately. Thanks !
quick question: i have the same echo myself (srm-210) that my neighbor gave me. there are 3 hoses running from the gas tank. the 2 that take fuel to/from the carburator are fine, but the third hose i have no clue where it goes. It doesn't seem to be affecting anything, but i was wondering if it was an overflow tube or something?
So I have a echo es-210 leaf blower that seized up. I did this before searching for my issue and I took of the recoil played with it for a while and actually fixed it my self. Shockingly lol. Ran it for a while and it seized up again. I think I'm currently running 40:1 mix. Is a low oil mix generally the reason this happens bc of lack of lubrication and does it seizing up cause damage to the internals and piston. I was so happy when it fired up and so pissed when it seized up. Great video tho. Thx
Thank you so much for uploading this it's the only video I could find that covered the seized problem and the part when you put the nut to start it was super clutch thank again man
What is your percentage of success with this method, 50/50--75/25? because if the piston is scored, and or the rings are frozen, you can free the engine up but not have enough compression to run.
PARDS2 out of all the engines that I have done so far I've only had two failures one was an engine that set with water in it for several years and didn't know it and the other one was an old V8 that and been sitting for 10 to 15 years probably had water in it as well
PARDS2 you always run the risk of scored pistons and cracked or stuck rings but what's the other alternative rebuilding the engine or throwing it away depends on what it is I always see it is worth trying
Hey brother ils 360, or anyone reading this, I ran my mix to light, have same problem with echo back pack blower. Should I proceed with the same process, remove the plug add rich 2 cycle and (regular?) gas, and let it sit over night? Thanks
Adding automatic transmission fluid or marvel some type of oil is best to help unseize then after you get it unceased and running again make sure to run a heavier mix in it from then on
Took sparkie out sprayed WD40 in removed pull starter got multigrip to try and turn motor and worked in 4th time, running rough but did spray a lot of WD40 big thanx to you mate got my fav wipper snipper back aint used in 2 yrs
Gotta love the good old youtube videos! I swear by running 32:1 and have never seen a seized motor or fouled plug. And run 12:1 in my old af lawnboy that says 16:1 lol they love it! Probably also helps they get a seafoam treatment every year.
Thank you :-) I'm glad you enjoy the old TH-cam videos thankfully they are still here and still helping people out with things. I also swear by using 32:1 there are a few newer things that I will run 40:1 but nothing lighter than that. Thank you for leaving a comment I really appreciate it
oops, just realized you answered him already ;) Great vid by the way. I did this a while back on a Ryobi pressure washer with a Subaru engine and also on an Echo srm2100. The Echo runs great on a full tank but when it gets below 1/3 full it really struggles and doesn't want to rev. Oddly enough it smells rich when this happens. If you have any ideas on that I'd love to hear them.
Hey all. I have a STIHL, and my issue is that with the spark plug in, it's really hard to pull over, and sometimes impossible. But with the plug out it's smooth as silk. Any ideas?
Yes, he is using a ratchet to turn the crank and unstick the piston and yes it will work on a 4 stroke (you don't really have a 4 cylinder trimmer do you? cuz if you do I want to see it) engine as well. The end of the crank shaft will be located inside your pull starter just like this one was :)
Thanks man worked perfectly. Also replaced spark plug after cleaning up the unit. The 4plus year old unit now looks like new. Haven't ran it for a long time yet but seemed to run very hot initially after fixing. Thanks again.
What are you talking about diesel. Are you putting a small amount of diesel in the fuel mix? If so why? I have done almost the exact same thing with a echo CS330t chainsaw and a echo GT-1100 weedeater. I dumped the oil that I had sitting on top of the piston probably 3-5 times giving it a rinse since he seized it up by not using a air filter. The chainsaw has 140 lbs compression and the weedeater has 138-140 also. I had to replace the piston ring on the weedeater since it was warped. I also honed the weedeater ever so slightly which gave it an additional 15-20 lbs compression an used some ultra fine sand paper on the piston for less than 15 secs making sure to go around it instead of up and down. I tried doing almost the same thing just for shits and giggles to a neighbor PB770t he had ran without a air filter and he used regular cheap motor oil instead of 2 stroke oil mixing it at 100-1. No clue why he decided that was fine. The piston is totaled the rings snapped into many pieces and the cylinder has groves exceeding 2 mm in depth on several sides. The muffler and exhaust port looked like he had almost no time on it sadly for him. He did this exact same thing to 2 identical backpack blowers. I felt bad for him so I decided since he was going to trash the whole thing I bought 1 for 30 dollars to recondition my PB-650 and use the top filter set up on mine as well as the lower rubber bushings since I had a tore one and they were dried out too. I also used his muffler on mine since its alot cleaner and a little better designed too. The blower tubes were flattened and he had drilled holes in them for god only knows. I also used his gas tank on mine. The backpad on the one I used for mine was also alot newer too and so was the throttle controls arm so I put them on mine. I called him a few days ago to have him pick up the left over parts and he said trash it. His boss who was the owner says he never wants to see it again. The cylinder also had a chunk of excess metal where the vents for the crankcase opens up which looked like a silver bb. The piston is brown and red in color also. I think since I am going to sell mine because I have about 10 working backpack blowers and never use them much anyways to his boss on the one condition that I give him a short lesson on proper maintance, fuel, and storage before letting him leave with it. I don't know what to charge him tho. I am into the running one probably under 90 dollars and less than 45 minutes time. I also did a exhaust port scraping and replaced all the gaskets including the head gasket on it. His excuse.... The oil was cheaper and the stores wanted around 20 dollars for a new air filter an he couldn't find the other one in his garage. He was blowing gravel when it went. He said it was a violent death and atleast got over 5 hrs of use from it. I then showed him a Kawasaki blower I have that caught on fire when the last owner was wearing it an was thrown into a pond. Its over 10 yrs old an the business who was using it said its got well over 40 hrs per week 50 weeks per year which comes to 20,000 hrs of use. Its got full compression an runs practically like new still even tho it looks like a Salvador Dali blower. Alot of the plastic parts are deformed from the fire. All it needed to be back in action was a new pull cord, fuel lines, and the cover for the airfilter housing as well as the filter. Ive never had to pull it more than 2x to start it either. I have a deere BP50 that has a similar thing going on with it to. Together for both of those blowers I paid less than 55 dollars an spent 20 on the KRB an 15 on the deere. Both had to have the throttle cables ends where it attaches to the carb also solderer again. I used some lead pellets from a old air rifle I already had nearby making it practically a no cost fix. The shop wanted 35 dollars for each new cable. The KRB also has the blower tubes made out of leftover parts from installing a cloths dryer and a old shop vac. Sometimes whatever works is good enough. The KRB700b/HG02s OEM tubes would have run me 75 dollars to replace. Everytime someone new sees it at first they cant help but giggle until they see the things in action. Many times the next thing people who are watching it do is start trying to buy it off me. The highest I have been offered for the KRB is 125 and the deere was about 100. Many people would have thrown away that weedeater you got back in action for them not knowing that it still has life left in it. My neighbor who gave me 3 weedeaters to try fixing for him was shocked when he noticed that the one he said was for parts only runs as good as the two others. I think his total bill for a FS90r, FS75, and a GT-1100 to have running again as good as he has ever had was less than he would have spent on any of them used possibly even. He is very cheap and instead of paying the amount he decided to give me the FS90r since he isn't able to use it anyways due to his deteriorating physical health. I gave him a craftsman 27cc with the jumpstart setup which is practically the only one he uses himself. The others went to his landscaping guy who keeps several rental properties yards kept up. His jaw dropped open when I started the previously seized echo up for him in 1 pull and let it idol smooth as ever. His fs75 I also started up first pull and told him that in less than a year I want to see them again to make sure things are cleaned and kept up. All of them needed new fuel lines, filters and primer bulbs. They also needed new line added to the heads and the echo needed a new throttle trigger I pulled of a SRM1501 i got from a junk yard which will never run again without replacing the piston/rings/head and everything from the clutch drum down to the bottom tip. Sorry for the extremely long reply but I have to give you alot of credit for this video since you probably will save several people money as well as helping the environment out by showing people replacing isn't needed as much as they would typically think and not to throw out there gas tools but keep them in action for hopefully a lot longer.
hey thanks for the vid i have a echo leaf blower been seized for a long time, thought it was junk so now im going to try what you did with the weed wacker i hope it works!!
@@ils360 you was right. I got it broke free. It almost fired up on first pull. Ran for 3 seconds blew out lot of white smoke,Stalled and hasn't even tried to fire back up. Absolutely nothin. Feels like no compression at all. It was already on life support, should i just pull the plug ? Lol.
It worked for me. I used penetrating oil and gas. Let it set for 15 minutes. Used socket wrench to break it free. Smoked at first but runs great now. Thank for your insight.
@@Kingdomrepairs sounds like your ignition coil might be touching the flywheel loosen it back up put a business card between the ignition coil and flywheel push it down and tighten it then rotate the flywheel to spit the business card out
Hi just watch r video and I have the same machine. Took it to get it repaired and they said could fix it because the parts r Japanese make. It has compression but can't get it to run. I am a woman who is willing to fix it by myself. But need advice how to.
i have 2 echo weedeaters, my brain is rusty on this one. when i pull the chord it pulls but the chord freezes like 4 times per pull. i have a bad rib so i simply cant do this i need to fix this. i took the spark plug out and pulls the chord and it glides easyyyyyy. so i know its not frozen
***** that black stuff that you saw on the gas tank i have that same stuff coming out of my new echo srm225 what is causing that black stuff to come. i think its coming from the muffler. how can i fix this issue?
A small amount of Sea foam added to the fuel can help burn out that in places it normally wouldn't otherwise but there is no substitute when cleaning the muffler and exhaust port. I typically use a flat head screwdriver going side to side and having the motor positioned where the inside is above where the muffler normally would be so carbon ends up falling out instead of in. Always put the piston as high as possible since scratches on the bottom don't really effect the compression like they do at the top. When using sea foam go extra rich with the oil mixture and always better to go light instead of trying to do everything to fast and instead killing the carburetor or even worse. An never let the fuel that has sea foam added sit. Use all the fuel with that additive within less than 1 hr then use some regular fuel just to flush out any that might be left just incase. I go with half the recommended amount that the manufacturer of that additive advises. An typically only put enough in with the fuel for it to run less than 10 minutes. It will smoke a bit at first then eventually stop smoking which is the signal that your done using that engine treatment and to pour out the leftover fuel once its gone a short time without any more smoke from the muffler.
well to start out it wasn't totally seized since the fuel i used had some oil but it didn't have enough. so i just opened it and took it apart then i moved the engine and it was a little rough so i put oil and it ,moved better. then just to make sure it runs smooth i cleaned the carburetor.
If my weed wacker is seized up what parts do i have to buy to have it running back to normal. Note: it's my dads weed wacker and he is away on vacation and I really want to fix it before he come back home. Because he told me not to use it.
Lol. 9 years late. I have a Yard King weed eater 4 Strokes that stop in the middle of job and I can’t pull to restart. I am not sure why. Could be I crank and use it without break in between? Thanks for sharing. I watch another videos where here the Carburetor cleaner and WD4 to loosen. I will try your method first. 👍
@@David-st8te definitely the first thing to check before using one of these small four-stroke engines every time before you use it. I have a couple of them some of them stay pretty full some of them use a good amount of oil. they only hold a very small amount so they can run out pretty quickly within two or three runs if they're using a lot of oil.
@@ils360 🙏❤️🥰👍. Thanks you. I am impressed with the response given I just got this video 9 years later. Hope you and the family stay safe and well from Covid. Will check and let you know how I go.
Jake Rathbun yep or running too lean of a mixture when they start calling for 50 to 1 I always I'm afraid to run that lean of a mix and then I never feel like it's enough oil I never run anything less than 40 to 1
Yeah... Killed my stihl 036 with slightly cheaper oil.. Cylinder and piston kit 200 bucks... Bought new saw. Echo, stihl and husqvarna oils are fine, lx oils specially.
I've used it on a lawn mower before but it just depends on how the lawn mower was seized weather it seized from sitting a very long time or seized from lack of oil. But there is a chance of it working just face the Piston upwards as its soaks there's a very good chance of it burning oil after if it sized from lack of oil so make sure to check it often
what are the symptoms to know if your weed eater is seized up? Mine is acting funny, the pull rope is hard to pull and it is very difficult to start it. Would this be the case of seized up or something else? This changes if I remove the spark plug, it is really easy to pull the rope without the spark plug. Please help
@@jcsr1509 you could always bump the mixture up just a little bit see if that helps any but it should be okay I'm not sure why it would be getting tight I've heard of machines having problems running on 50:1 even when they call for it I never run anything lighter than 40:1what model is the trimmer?
I altered your steps, with success. Thanks for the thoughtful repair video. My steps:
1. Remove the sparkplug, as you did, then added 100% Marvel Mystery Oil. Soak overnight. Did NOT reinsert the plug. Soak plug in MMO
2. With the plug out I was able to hand turn the flywheel slightly counterclockwise. I continued to hand turn to loosen.
3. I made the mistake of pulling the cord hard, a stream of MMO came out.
4. Drain all MMO and oil. Add new oil.
5. Reassemble.
6 Started on 1st pull
Honestly this is the second time I've watched your video to help me unseize my Echo backpack blower! Worked both times! Thanks for sharing!
I followed these instructions to a tee with my ceased Echo SRM 210. The pull cord loosened and I started it up. After 30 seconds it slowed down and shut off and was ceased up again. I can’t figure out why. I heard you mention something about the gas/oil mixture being too lean. I was using the Home Depot premix 50:1 (red can) for weeks with no problem. Then I switched to the premium 50:1 (silver can) and that’s when it ceased. However, for this fix, I emptied the silver can mix and refilled with the red can mix and it ceased again. This is frustrating. Can’t figure this out. Help please!
@@HNDSME247 mix your own fuel or run a can that has more oil in it l. 50 to 1 is incredibly lean and I believe was created just for emissions I honestly believe there's not enough oil in a 50 to 1 mix remember the first part is fuel the second part is oil so 50 parts fuel to 1 Part oil try a heavier mix 40 to 1 or heavier I wouldn't go much heavier than a 32 to one though that's getting a little heavy for "modern" 2 stroke
How much mystery oil should I put in? Lol
thank you so much for taking the time to post these videos. It's not easy holding the camera and working so I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this video. I was going to buy a new echo weed eater today because my old Echo SRM 150 was seized up as well. Didn't realize it was such an easy fix. I didn't even have to let mine sit over night. I poured in the diesel and oil mix and had the whole thing back to running in about 15 minutes. I'm using more oil in my mixture now. Thanks so much. Chad
Thank you!! Used this technique with GREAT SUCCESS! I used a 50/50% mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and diesel fuel and after letting it soak for 24 hours was able to turn the motor with relative ease Your trick of putting a nut on the threaded shaft made it that much easier.
I unsiezed a john deere weedeater engine earlier, but I had to take it all apart and i figured out the crank case was rusted. Great video!
Your a genius. Thank you for taking time to save a bunch of us from a pain in the neck
west wood I agree. He’s a genius. I couldn’t believe how well the Lucy’s oil and diesel mixture worked and worked quickly.
Right on thank you for your help. The engine on my blower was seized, I did as you instructed and it worked.
works like a charm.
I didn't have diesel. so I used 2 stroke, and wd-40. I removed the pull crank and sprayed wd around the shalf and a bit where the spark plug is. let it sit for 30-40minutes and wiggled it around. and we're good to go. thanks a lot on the video.
Awesome Video! I just went to a yard sale Sunday and a guy had 3 echo 210 weed wackers on a tarp so I asked how much for a weed whacker. He said $15.00 for all of them.So I said I only wanted one. He said I had to take All 3.So I did. Well two are seized so And one I just added fuel and it started right up. I even weed whacked most of the yard just playing around with it. Anyway I wasn't sure what to do with the seized ones until now! Thanks!
Now I can fix them and sell them for $30.00 each!
Great video, genius, thanks for the lesson, no doubt you learn something new every day , blessings
This video saved me from having to buy a new weed eater . Thanks for the knowledge. I did do a big mess up before thinking to research this topic, I didnt think to take the string retractor off so I yanked the string while i wedged the handle on a ladder rack attavhed to my truck . Ima see whats the damage tonight . Wish me luck 🤞
Great training video! l may have the same problem. Fresh oil and new gas 1st time this season in a Craftsman 4 cyl gas weedwacker model 358.796160. It pulled jerky twice then cord wont pull at all. Does your approach apply to 4 cyl gas engines?. I've got one part plastic cover off, to remove the spark plug. I put 100% Marvin mystery oil in the spark plug opening to loosen things up overnight. Please explain your video..the vise grips are on the crank shaft? Trying to locate that on my unit.
Excellent video on freeing up a seized 2-stroke.
Really appreciate your taking us through how to fix a seized up SRM 210. Not sure if mine is seized or the starter, but now I know what to do if it is seized. Thanks.
Thanks sir! Been looking for the solution to my seized echo edger pe 200. Great info!
Glad I could help and I hope it works out good for you just remember to mix the oil a little heavier and it will prevent it from happening again
Great and interesting. Now again what is the ratio Marvel oil and Diesel that you used?
Thank you.
Nice video ils, I applied the same method to my 2 year old toro power head trimmer/blower. Used wd40 & motor oil like another viewer mentioned and it SEEMED to work. I was able to loosen up the drive shaft(or crank shaft, whatever it was that wasn't turning) put it all back and was able to pull the cord and it wanted to start and then froze up again. Repeated the same steps over and over and got the same results, only this time, after a couple of attempts to start, it was making a metal on metal sound and I figured I was F'ed.Well I was right! When it froze for like the 5th time,I took a ride to a local Toro service shop to get an answer.He said 2 stroke engines are having more trouble than ever with ethanol in the gas! If it was making that metal sound, he could break it down, charge me $50 and then tell me I was F'ed! He suggested only using 89% octane(1 grade above regular gas) and GOOD oil with an FP rating(not the cheap shit from walmart) So I gave it a valiant effort and just when I wanted to write and thank you for saving me $130 and call you a genius,,,I was F'ed!.. thanks anyway
🎨🎨🎨🎨🎨
Forgive my ignorance... does it have to be diesel and oil or can it be oil and gas as well to initiate the unseize? Excellent post. Thank You!
I have never tried it with gasoline I use diesel due to it being very good at penetrating kerosene works just as good.
Thank you for your video we have a Poland pro same thing and within 3 hours your trick worked! Awesome we are so happy we was able to fix it. Thank you again
Gail Perry so glad I could help :-)
can u please share the ration of 2 stroke to diesel to soak into the cylinder? tks..i don't have Marvel mystery oil in Brisbane..so your tutorial will come in helpful
50/50 or 25% diesel 75% oil depends on the oil that you use you can use 2-stroke oil and I would suggest fifty-fifty with that but would prefer ATF and I would use 25-75 with that
Thanks for the formula....I will seek out some ATF
Why was it seized? was it from carbon build up or from a damaged piston and cylinder?
If I pull the spark plug the pull cord pulls all the way out. With the plug installed it does not. Sometimes if I keep trying, it might pull all the way out, and I might get it started, Next time will not pull out. Repair for echo says I need to use it more. It started when I picked it up just fine. A few weeks later back to the same issue. I don't use it every week. Maybe a month will go by before I try it again. Any thoughts?
Great video. .... that engine had to get very hot to seize up like that. I've seen it happen myself in a car that tech forgot to put new oil back in. ...ooops! Great video!
I havent forgot about those canna lily seeds, my legs got broke in a wreck but I still have someone looking out for the seed pods to come up. Hope I catch them, I think they do it near the end of summer. I should be up and walking by then.
question....between 6:19 and 6:35 you removed the outer piece of the crankshaft...does that removed easily once it has soaked overnight and can be moved?
its called the starter cup and it's pretty easy to remove when the cylinder is frozen solid like this one was if you're trying to remove it when the cylinder moves freely then you're going to have to stop the cylinder in some way to get that piece off
holy crap, i took the weed whacker apart and messed with it and i think i fixed it cause it part that was stuck is turning now. but it a little rough not as smooth as it was is there any thing that you recommend like putting oil in a certain part or parts. sine im not much of a mechanic im not really sure what to do to make it run smoother.
Thanks bud you just saved me $200 worked like a charm
i was going to go buy a new trimmer until i saw this. fixed in about an hr so happy thanks 4 doing this video
Marc Barling awesome I'm glad I could help and thanks for sharing :)
MuffinMan Quit Hating
is the diesel only for unseizing it or does it run on it?
Question How do you put back the spring that goes inside the starter? I took it apart and the parts say I-30 SRM 210 but its the same machine tha you have on the video
If this seizing is same as seizing in a chainsaw, this is what happened to me yesterday. That crankcase is stuck and will not turn, and I even broke the starter cord trying to get it started. when I fixed that, I put it back together and it was locked solid. No give. I had no idea what happened but the chainsaw did get hot for some reason. I have no idea why, but noticed one of the hoses had come loose under the carb and maybe this is why. It was smoking when I stopped it. My question is if this does not come unseized like this method, what will I have to do to fix this? Or can I fix it as most parts are not available for the chainsaw any longer? Is it very hard to take this crankcase out and look at the piston and see if it was damaged? I guess I should just try this method and if I get it unstuck, just leave it alone. But I still have to figure out why this got so hot to begin with.thanks for any input and realize I am off topic slightly as mine is chainsaw but still same issue and same stroke. It is a Stihl Farm boss 041 AV that I have and has always been a good one.
if it was being worked hard it could just simply be from not enough oil in the fuel that's why I always fix my fuel a little bit heavier than what it says for example if it says 40 to 1 which I don't know the exact mix off the top of my head but say it would be two and a half ounces of oil to 1 gallon of gas i will mix 3 ounces of oil to one of gallon gas as long as you're not belching smoke out it's totally fine. that and I stay away from the cheap 2-stroke oil I would try this method first let it soak for a while and see if you can get it to break loose. your case is a little bit harder just for the fact that it ran lean somehow and seized up due to not enough lubrication the only other way you'd be able to fix it is to get the cylinder and piston off of the bottom end and replacing them. a lot of guys say that doing this is not worth it getting it unseized and continue using it because it can be timed and only work for a short while. but the way I look at it is if I can get it to work a week a month or year more that's more use out of the machine that I would have gotten instead of just chucking it. the few that I have done personally and for customers I've had great luck with just make sure you always run a heavier mix in them.
when you say it is not worth it, what do you mean? the chainsaw can never be fixed properly or just isn't worth the cost of fixing? I was going to do (attempt) the fix myself if this doesn't work. Any idea what parts are going to be needed to fix this? I don't ever remember this seizing before, but the string from the starter would pull out sometimes like it was completely free. I would then let it go back in easily and it would catch and I could start again. This time when it came out and didn't catch, I accidentally let go of the handle and it jammed in the housing. I could not get the starter cord to catch to start so took apart and tried turning and it would not budge. I got string and handle to catch and it would not budge. Could the string going in really fast from letting go cause this? I also noticed that plastic catch was sticking causing the string to come out with any resistance. This was first sign of something bad. I do want to fix this as it is a older one that I would like to keep. It is a Stihl 041 AV Farmboss and was only run hard for maybe 10 minutes when it got really hot. thanks for any help or suggestions as I will tear this apart and replace all that needs to if this will fix it. Give it a new rebuild sort of. Please let me know what you think.Just to edit to say I got it unstuck. It clearly was not as bad as I thought. I was able to turn it with gloves on and it turned right away. I just couldn't turn it by the cord. I wonder if there is any way of cleaning out this chamber area where you are putting this liquid to lay on the piston? Mine is located on the bottom back side and if I pour anything in there, it looks like a pretty big chamber. Should I fill this chamber up with this mixture and just let it set overnight than empty it out? Might clean it out and let it spin a lot easier.
Yo Dude....u rock. was gonna buy a new one..then thought I'd just change the starter. But saw you site. One squirt of Kroil, 5 mins and a few turns on the starter pawl and it started right up......THANKS THANKS THANKS.
Vince Minnillo your very welcome! :)
Any tips on getting the nut off? Having trouble trying to get it off once its rotating again
if you had a pressure tester could you put the oil in there and pressurize it to help push the oil down?
Question... I used this method to unfreeze the motor on a backpack leaf blower, and got it unstuck pretty easily. I used PB Blaster as the lubricant - but wonder if maybe I used too much. I did put kind of a lot in there... When I put the plug back in and try to start it it up, no luck. When I check the plug again, the end is wet. Do I just need to let the whole thing dry out for a while? Any suggestions?
Jennifer Ashbrook take the spark plug out and turn it upside down and turn it over pretty vigorously turn it over pretty quick to get as much fluid as you can and then let it sit for a while Give It 2 or 3 hours and then do that again just to get all the oils and lubricants out if it won't dry out try putting a little gasoline in there because that will help flush out what's left over
I have a Ryobi 31CC Cultivator that acts like it has a hydo-lock, which of course it don't, when the starter rope is pulled. Will hardly turn over and needless to say won't start and run. I remove the spark plug the engine then turns over freely. Any suggestions what the problem is?
+Larry P S Could be a severely clogged spark arrestor.
If you are going to cycle the piston without a spark plug make sure the opening for the plug is cleaned up so nothing ends up falling inside. I would also consider scraping all carbon build up off the exhaust port since it can end up breaking off and scoring the piston when its not running typically during transportation. Just make sure you know the correct way to do this positioning the piston at the top of its cycle exposing the piston skirt only. I sometimes like to just pull the head off the cylinder when doing this to make sure theres no lip inside the cylinder of carbon anyways. I also replace all the gaskets when doing this and check the flywheel and the opposite side of the crankshaft making sure there is no play there. If there is its time for new crankshaft bearings and oiler seals. I would have to use a crankcase splitter tool to get it apart most times and the correct flywheel puller too. You may also want to readjust the L screw on the carb to make sure its not running to lean while attempting unseizing the top and if your removing the cylinder pour a little 2 stroke oil into the crankcase since its already open an new gaskets for the muffler, cylinder, crankcase(assuming your splitting it apart), and carburetor side. I sometimes use a butane torch to burn the muffler clean when its to invasive to open up and scrub clean with steal wool. If you think there is any chance you might not remember how to put it back together take pictures of every step you do disassembling to use as a guide for putting back together. Also Ereplacementparts.com often has diagrams of your item making it easier to figure out what goes back where.
Great video young man, thanks for the time and EXPERTISE!!
what oil/mix are you running on that just a little curious...
I have a Husqvarna 125l that I believe just seized on me today . I was in the middle of trimming my yard and It stopped abruptly and will not budge . Think i'll give this a try .
worked perfect on my echo PAS266 2 yr old, last year we ran it a bit lean and it got stuck same as this video, mixed up some stihl oil and diesel in a coffee cup pour it into the chamber left it over night . then took the pull start off and bolt on the shaft turn over easy. put it back together and started up right away
. . I didn't have any diesel fuel so I used only the the Echo 2 cycle oil and used about 1/4 and I waited about a week. I used a large adjustable wrench to turn the crank and it started to turn immediately.
Thanks !
quick question: i have the same echo myself (srm-210) that my neighbor gave me. there are 3 hoses running from the gas tank. the 2 that take fuel to/from the carburator are fine, but the third hose i have no clue where it goes. It doesn't seem to be affecting anything, but i was wondering if it was an overflow tube or something?
after you unseize the engine you need to run the fule with a bit more oil forever and penetrating oil would be fine
Nice job. The fuel looks like there was no oil in it when you started on it. You saved him a ton of money vs a short block and a piston kit.
So I have a echo es-210 leaf blower that seized up. I did this before searching for my issue and I took of the recoil played with it for a while and actually fixed it my self. Shockingly lol. Ran it for a while and it seized up again. I think I'm currently running 40:1 mix. Is a low oil mix generally the reason this happens bc of lack of lubrication and does it seizing up cause damage to the internals and piston. I was so happy when it fired up and so pissed when it seized up. Great video tho. Thx
Try adjusting the carburetor to a richer mix. Running it too lean
will also cause it to seize. The fuel helps to cool it
Thank you so much for uploading this it's the only video I could find that covered the seized problem and the part when you put the nut to start it was super clutch thank again man
What is your percentage of success with this method, 50/50--75/25? because if the piston is scored, and or the rings are frozen, you can free the engine up but not have enough compression to run.
PARDS2 out of all the engines that I have done so far I've only had two failures one was an engine that set with water in it for several years and didn't know it and the other one was an old V8 that and been sitting for 10 to 15 years probably had water in it as well
sweet
PARDS2 you always run the risk of scored pistons and cracked or stuck rings but what's the other alternative rebuilding the engine or throwing it away depends on what it is I always see it is worth trying
PARDS2 likehow to water out of small engines like a weed eater
Excited to try it
Sweet :-) you'll have to let me know how it turns out
Great outcome. Hope it continues to run. I suspect that you have piston and bore damage.
I'm sure it does but that's why I usually run a heavier oil mix in them just to keep them running as long as possible thanks for the comment
Hey brother ils 360, or anyone reading this, I ran my mix to light, have same problem with echo back pack blower. Should I proceed with the same process, remove the plug add rich 2 cycle and (regular?) gas, and let it sit over night? Thanks
Adding automatic transmission fluid or marvel some type of oil is best to help unseize then after you get it unceased and running again make sure to run a heavier mix in it from then on
@@ils360 Hey, all right, I will try that, thanks for the response.
Took sparkie out sprayed WD40 in removed pull starter got multigrip to try and turn motor and worked in 4th time, running rough but did spray a lot of WD40 big thanx to you mate got my fav wipper snipper back aint used in 2 yrs
Heck yeah I'm glad I was able to help!!
Gotta love the good old youtube videos! I swear by running 32:1 and have never seen a seized motor or fouled plug. And run 12:1 in my old af lawnboy that says 16:1 lol they love it! Probably also helps they get a seafoam treatment every year.
Thank you :-) I'm glad you enjoy the old TH-cam videos thankfully they are still here and still helping people out with things. I also swear by using 32:1 there are a few newer things that I will run 40:1 but nothing lighter than that. Thank you for leaving a comment I really appreciate it
oops, just realized you answered him already ;)
Great vid by the way. I did this a while back on a Ryobi pressure washer with a Subaru engine and also on an Echo srm2100.
The Echo runs great on a full tank but when it gets below 1/3 full it really struggles and doesn't want to rev. Oddly enough it smells rich when this happens. If you have any ideas on that I'd love to hear them.
Hey all. I have a STIHL, and my issue is that with the spark plug in, it's really hard to pull over, and sometimes impossible. But with the plug out it's smooth as silk. Any ideas?
that's weird how much use has it had and are you using the original sparkplug?
Yes, he is using a ratchet to turn the crank and unstick the piston and yes it will work on a 4 stroke (you don't really have a 4 cylinder trimmer do you? cuz if you do I want to see it) engine as well. The end of the crank shaft will be located inside your pull starter just like this one was :)
Thanks man worked perfectly. Also replaced spark plug after cleaning up the unit. The 4plus year old unit now looks like new. Haven't ran it for a long time yet but seemed to run very hot initially after fixing. Thanks again.
What are you talking about diesel. Are you putting a small amount of diesel in the fuel mix? If so why? I have done almost the exact same thing with a echo CS330t chainsaw and a echo GT-1100 weedeater. I dumped the oil that I had sitting on top of the piston probably 3-5 times giving it a rinse since he seized it up by not using a air filter. The chainsaw has 140 lbs compression and the weedeater has 138-140 also. I had to replace the piston ring on the weedeater since it was warped. I also honed the weedeater ever so slightly which gave it an additional 15-20 lbs compression an used some ultra fine sand paper on the piston for less than 15 secs making sure to go around it instead of up and down. I tried doing almost the same thing just for shits and giggles to a neighbor PB770t he had ran without a air filter and he used regular cheap motor oil instead of 2 stroke oil mixing it at 100-1. No clue why he decided that was fine. The piston is totaled the rings snapped into many pieces and the cylinder has groves exceeding 2 mm in depth on several sides. The muffler and exhaust port looked like he had almost no time on it sadly for him. He did this exact same thing to 2 identical backpack blowers. I felt bad for him so I decided since he was going to trash the whole thing I bought 1 for 30 dollars to recondition my PB-650 and use the top filter set up on mine as well as the lower rubber bushings since I had a tore one and they were dried out too. I also used his muffler on mine since its alot cleaner and a little better designed too. The blower tubes were flattened and he had drilled holes in them for god only knows. I also used his gas tank on mine. The backpad on the one I used for mine was also alot newer too and so was the throttle controls arm so I put them on mine. I called him a few days ago to have him pick up the left over parts and he said trash it. His boss who was the owner says he never wants to see it again. The cylinder also had a chunk of excess metal where the vents for the crankcase opens up which looked like a silver bb. The piston is brown and red in color also. I think since I am going to sell mine because I have about 10 working backpack blowers and never use them much anyways to his boss on the one condition that I give him a short lesson on proper maintance, fuel, and storage before letting him leave with it. I don't know what to charge him tho. I am into the running one probably under 90 dollars and less than 45 minutes time. I also did a exhaust port scraping and replaced all the gaskets including the head gasket on it. His excuse.... The oil was cheaper and the stores wanted around 20 dollars for a new air filter an he couldn't find the other one in his garage. He was blowing gravel when it went. He said it was a violent death and atleast got over 5 hrs of use from it. I then showed him a Kawasaki blower I have that caught on fire when the last owner was wearing it an was thrown into a pond. Its over 10 yrs old an the business who was using it said its got well over 40 hrs per week 50 weeks per year which comes to 20,000 hrs of use. Its got full compression an runs practically like new still even tho it looks like a Salvador Dali blower. Alot of the plastic parts are deformed from the fire. All it needed to be back in action was a new pull cord, fuel lines, and the cover for the airfilter housing as well as the filter. Ive never had to pull it more than 2x to start it either. I have a deere BP50 that has a similar thing going on with it to. Together for both of those blowers I paid less than 55 dollars an spent 20 on the KRB an 15 on the deere. Both had to have the throttle cables ends where it attaches to the carb also solderer again. I used some lead pellets from a old air rifle I already had nearby making it practically a no cost fix. The shop wanted 35 dollars for each new cable. The KRB also has the blower tubes made out of leftover parts from installing a cloths dryer and a old shop vac. Sometimes whatever works is good enough. The KRB700b/HG02s OEM tubes would have run me 75 dollars to replace. Everytime someone new sees it at first they cant help but giggle until they see the things in action. Many times the next thing people who are watching it do is start trying to buy it off me. The highest I have been offered for the KRB is 125 and the deere was about 100. Many people would have thrown away that weedeater you got back in action for them not knowing that it still has life left in it. My neighbor who gave me 3 weedeaters to try fixing for him was shocked when he noticed that the one he said was for parts only runs as good as the two others. I think his total bill for a FS90r, FS75, and a GT-1100 to have running again as good as he has ever had was less than he would have spent on any of them used possibly even. He is very cheap and instead of paying the amount he decided to give me the FS90r since he isn't able to use it anyways due to his deteriorating physical health. I gave him a craftsman 27cc with the jumpstart setup which is practically the only one he uses himself. The others went to his landscaping guy who keeps several rental properties yards kept up. His jaw dropped open when I started the previously seized echo up for him in 1 pull and let it idol smooth as ever. His fs75 I also started up first pull and told him that in less than a year I want to see them again to make sure things are cleaned and kept up. All of them needed new fuel lines, filters and primer bulbs. They also needed new line added to the heads and the echo needed a new throttle trigger I pulled of a SRM1501 i got from a junk yard which will never run again without replacing the piston/rings/head and everything from the clutch drum down to the bottom tip. Sorry for the extremely long reply but I have to give you alot of credit for this video since you probably will save several people money as well as helping the environment out by showing people replacing isn't needed as much as they would typically think and not to throw out there gas tools but keep them in action for hopefully a lot longer.
I had one seize up and found a tiny and I mean TINY piece of metal shaving under the piston. Removed the flake and ran like new.
Thanks bro, my lawn edger seized. Your video gives me hope👍 I’ll let you know how I’ go……
Were you able to get it unseized and fixed?
does it have to be diesel and it looks like about 50/50 mix of diesel and oil is that about right?
hey thanks for the vid i have a echo leaf blower been seized for a long time, thought it was junk so now im going to try what you did with the weed wacker i hope it works!!
Didn't have diesel. Used wd40 and two stroke oil. Minutes later it broke free. Thanks for video
HAPPY NEW YEAR do you know what auto parts store sell maxima castor 927?
I just poured the mystery oil and diesel in the empty plug socket, seemed it all ran right out the exhaust? Too much fluids or what?
Your Piston is sitting further down in its stroke if you tilt the engine towards the carburetor try a couple more capfuls and let it sit overnight
@@ils360 Trying it now. Thank you man!
@@bignickdigger7105 no problem 👍
@@ils360 you was right. I got it broke free. It almost fired up on first pull. Ran for 3 seconds blew out lot of white smoke,Stalled and hasn't even tried to fire back up. Absolutely nothin. Feels like no compression at all. It was already on life support, should i just pull the plug ? Lol.
It worked for me. I used penetrating oil and gas. Let it set for 15 minutes. Used socket wrench to break it free. Smoked at first but runs great now. Thank for your insight.
Your welcome! ☺️
Great job ! Love the video Dude...
Thank You so Much..I have a seized up troy bilt weedeater ! Post that video please ..
When letting it sit do you dump the marvel mix out or crank it and run it thru?
arthur davis crank it and run it through for sure
I took the ignition coil off and replaced, now all back together the pull cord is stuck but when i remove the front housing it moves ??????? Any help
@@Kingdomrepairs sounds like your ignition coil might be touching the flywheel loosen it back up put a business card between the ignition coil and flywheel push it down and tighten it then rotate the flywheel to spit the business card out
@ils360 thank you !!! This done the trick I forgot to set the clearance before installation.
@@Kingdomrepairs awesome!! I'm happy to help! 😊
Hi just watch r video and I have the same machine. Took it to get it repaired and they said could fix it because the parts r Japanese make.
It has compression but can't get it to run. I am a woman who is willing to fix it by myself. But need advice how to.
i have 2 echo weedeaters, my brain is rusty on this one. when i pull the chord it pulls but the chord freezes like 4 times per pull. i have a bad rib so i simply cant do this i need to fix this. i took the spark plug out and pulls the chord and it glides easyyyyyy. so i know its not frozen
Got to give it to you this worked for me. Thanks
Great video,have a seized craftsman weedeater.Hope this resolves the problem.....
could you have used diesel and atf or atf and paint thinner
Thanks mate, this was extremely helpful!
***** that black stuff that you saw on the gas tank i have that same stuff coming out of my new echo srm225 what is causing that black stuff to come. i think its coming from the muffler. how can i fix this issue?
A small amount of Sea foam added to the fuel can help burn out that in places it normally wouldn't otherwise but there is no substitute when cleaning the muffler and exhaust port. I typically use a flat head screwdriver going side to side and having the motor positioned where the inside is above where the muffler normally would be so carbon ends up falling out instead of in. Always put the piston as high as possible since scratches on the bottom don't really effect the compression like they do at the top. When using sea foam go extra rich with the oil mixture and always better to go light instead of trying to do everything to fast and instead killing the carburetor or even worse. An never let the fuel that has sea foam added sit. Use all the fuel with that additive within less than 1 hr then use some regular fuel just to flush out any that might be left just incase. I go with half the recommended amount that the manufacturer of that additive advises. An typically only put enough in with the fuel for it to run less than 10 minutes. It will smoke a bit at first then eventually stop smoking which is the signal that your done using that engine treatment and to pour out the leftover fuel once its gone a short time without any more smoke from the muffler.
Sounds awesome for the price you payed. Thumbs up to that
Why use diesel instead of reg gas
This would only work if the piston cylinder and rings were not scored or scratched. Good luck on the restart once it gets hot!
well to start out it wasn't totally seized since the fuel i used had some oil but it didn't have enough. so i just opened it and took it apart then i moved the engine and it was a little rough so i put oil and it ,moved better. then just to make sure it runs smooth i cleaned the carburetor.
Why diesel?
Just happened to me. Exactly like this video! Thanks!
Thank you! Learned how to do this myself thanks to you. :-)
scooter?
If my weed wacker is seized up what parts do i have to buy to have it running back to normal.
Note: it's my dads weed wacker and he is away on vacation and I really want to fix it before he come back home. Because he told me not to use it.
Lol. 9 years late. I have a Yard King weed eater 4 Strokes that stop in the middle of job and I can’t pull to restart. I am not sure why. Could be I crank and use it without break in between? Thanks for sharing. I watch another videos where here the Carburetor cleaner and WD4 to loosen. I will try your method first. 👍
Have you checked the oil or changed it?
@@ils360 🥰...that was quick reply. Thanks
No. Should I. It happened yesterday.
@@ils360
I did not know. Is that the 1st thing I should do. Oil is empty? WOW.
@@David-st8te definitely the first thing to check before using one of these small four-stroke engines every time before you use it. I have a couple of them some of them stay pretty full some of them use a good amount of oil. they only hold a very small amount so they can run out pretty quickly within two or three runs if they're using a lot of oil.
@@ils360
🙏❤️🥰👍. Thanks you. I am impressed with the response given I just got this video 9 years later. Hope you and the family stay safe and well from Covid. Will check and let you know how I go.
Can i do this to my goped if the piston got stuck lol
at 9:50 the engine plays the Terminator 2 theme.... dun, dun, DUN, DUN, DA, DUN!!!
lmao
The reason it seized up in the first place could could very well be running with the air/fuel mixture too lean. Be sure to check the adjustment.
How did you took out the bolt
Witch one?
Hoping this will help me with my Mantis tiller!
i wanded the oil to get forsed past the rings to help with not scoring the cilinder any more
I just sprayed WD forty in mine .
Will that work?
It could
in the tank?
nice video, our walmart has the marvel oil for around 14 bucks a gallon
can you pake a video to clarify?
I have a question why would a 49cc engine take so long in starting pull about 50 times I put new gas new spark plug and carberator
How do these little 2 strokes even get seized? Running it without 2 stroke oil?
Jake Rathbun yep or running too lean of a mixture when they start calling for 50 to 1 I always I'm afraid to run that lean of a mix and then I never feel like it's enough oil I never run anything less than 40 to 1
Jake Rathbun also a cheap two-stroke oil could do the same thing you always want to run a good quality oil
Ah
Yeah... Killed my stihl 036 with slightly cheaper oil.. Cylinder and piston kit 200 bucks... Bought new saw.
Echo, stihl and husqvarna oils are fine, lx oils specially.
Would this work for a lawnmower?
I've used it on a lawn mower before but it just depends on how the lawn mower was seized weather it seized from sitting a very long time or seized from lack of oil. But there is a chance of it working just face the Piston upwards as its soaks there's a very good chance of it burning oil after if it sized from lack of oil so make sure to check it often
what are the symptoms to know if your weed eater is seized up? Mine is acting funny, the pull rope is hard to pull and it is very difficult to start it. Would this be the case of seized up or something else? This changes if I remove the spark plug, it is really easy to pull the rope without the spark plug. Please help
How long have you had the trimmer and what fuel do you run in it? How often do you use it?
@@ils360 about a year ago. Only used premium fuel with 2-stroke engine oil. I generally use it once a month
@@jcsr1509 what mixture ratio are you running?
@@ils360 40:1
@@jcsr1509 you could always bump the mixture up just a little bit see if that helps any but it should be okay I'm not sure why it would be getting tight I've heard of machines having problems running on 50:1 even when they call for it I never run anything lighter than 40:1what model is the trimmer?