If you want to watch the rest of the video's in the Table Saw Shop Cabinet Build series here is the playlist th-cam.com/play/PLVgSs4YDBFhv4e81b-Qy-T41OLJgihZv1.html
Thankful that I found your video! I had a drawer that shampoo was spilled into. Because of you I learned where the release was located and was able to get the drawer out to properly clean it.
Thank you so much for this video, Brian. I've been wanting to use these slides, but to be honest, been a bit intimidated by installation. This is a great tutorial on it! This video deserves a million views!
You forgot to mention that if you stick to the metric dimensions you will be finished in half the time. No nine sixteenths plus half and inch etc. Thank god we, here in the UK got rid of imperial in the 70’s. Great instructional video, really enjoying your uploads.
Thank you for this video. It is very interesting and usefull for me. I am a furniture maker from Russia. I also use BLUM slides in my work. It is a good idea with frame under the slides.
I have a framed cabinet. Would I used the clip in the back? Thanks for the tutorial. Of the Vicks Bit's what size did you use in the tutorial since there were three in the set?
Yes, you can order either a plastic clip or metal depending on your application for different setups and frame styles. I don't remember the exact size of the bit, but I believe it was the smallest one. When you hold the bit next to the screw you will know what size to use
I bought a set from Home Depot and installed them to spec. The instructions say specifically 1/2" max height from the bottom of the draw frame to the bottom of the paneled insert. When I close my draw, the slide rail drags on the plastic release lever. I remedied this problem using the level nlknobs to elevate the front slightly. Now, the little plastic end cap on the slide rail rubs on the fixed rail that is mounted to the cabinet? Is there something wrong with my draw slide, or is it something I did in building. I would like to think that no part of the slide rail should ever rub on the fixed part of the rail if it was made correctly? I only have two sets of this style of rail, but I am starting to wonder if these rails are problematic. I'm not new to building and installing drawer slides, just trying to figure out what went wrong.
Without being able to put my hands on it to really see what's going on. I'm not sure I can offer much insight for you. I didn't think home Depot carried Blum guides. I think they are an off brand, so it's hard to say
Thanks, I normally put links in the description. Unfortunately right now their is a supply chain issues due to all the crap in the world, so their is a shortage of hardware As a result I was hesitant to put links to something that is out of stock.. These I got from Rickler and they do sell the jig. Rickler is the most expensive place to get them. I normally buy the from cabinet parts .com. But they were out last time I tried
Here are the links, Looks like most are instock Blum Tandem Drawer glides www.rockler.com/blum-tandem-full-extension-drawer-slide-kit-with-blumotion-soft-close Installation Jig amzn.to/3tW123S Drill Bits Needed amzn.to/3CwP1VB Vix Bit amzn.to/3lyug4I
Can you put a longer drawer on the slide, such as a 29" drawer on a 24" slide, and just attach the front clip further back? I cannot find undermount slides longer than 24". Thx,
I think it would be possible, you would have to mount the whole glide back as well. Their would be some fiddling around to get everything lined up. But I do think it's possible. The main problem would be that the drawer wouldn't open all the way.
@@Benham_Design Thanks for the quick reply. The drawers will be in a pantry with inches of space above each one, so not having full extension would not be a problem. I don't want to lose the extra 5" of length of the drawer.
I’m not convinced that jig for drilling the rear indexing hole is made correctly. Did you notice too the locating pins on the slides themselves are in different positions right&left?
I haven't had a problem with things lining up using the jig. I wonder if the pins got moved out of their starting position. The thing is design so that once the pins are in the holes, you can turn the plastic wheel to adjust them up and down, this adjusting the fit of the drawer.
I don't use the Blum slides I use another brand, the slides I use hold a little more weight than the Blum and I like the front clip better, but they all work the same, I think its a huge mistake not to use the clip with adjustment, whenever you move a piece anywhere it never sits the same and the drawer faces will move and you have to adjust them back, 1000 times easier to have the adjustment also the back clip is used for face frame applications and you wouldn't need it for the cabinet you did because it was frameless.
If you want to watch the rest of the video's in the Table Saw Shop Cabinet Build series here is the playlist
th-cam.com/play/PLVgSs4YDBFhv4e81b-Qy-T41OLJgihZv1.html
Thank you for giving the clearance requirements of the drawer. I watched 7 other TH-camrs and none of them were as thorough as you.
Thanks Brian Blumham, I’ve referenced this video about 62 times now
Me too, cuz I can never remember. lol
Thankful that I found your video! I had a drawer that shampoo was spilled into. Because of you I learned where the release was located and was able to get the drawer out to properly clean it.
Glad I could help, sometimes those hardware companies make their products a puzzle
Thank you so much for this video, Brian. I've been wanting to use these slides, but to be honest, been a bit intimidated by installation. This is a great tutorial on it! This video deserves a million views!
You forgot to mention that if you stick to the metric dimensions you will be finished in half the time. No nine sixteenths plus half and inch etc. Thank god we, here in the UK got rid of imperial in the 70’s. Great instructional video, really enjoying your uploads.
Maybe finish earlier, but definitely be a communist.
Thank you for this video. It is very interesting and usefull for me. I am a furniture maker from Russia. I also use BLUM slides in my work. It is a good idea with frame under the slides.
such a good tutorial this helped me install my blum slides with ease THANK YOU
Thank you so much for this video... You saved my sanity!
That was thorough- Blum better reach out to you with that $$$!
Lol, right?
I have a framed cabinet. Would I used the clip in the back? Thanks for the tutorial. Of the Vicks Bit's what size did you use in the tutorial since there were three in the set?
Yes, you can order either a plastic clip or metal depending on your application for different setups and frame styles.
I don't remember the exact size of the bit, but I believe it was the smallest one.
When you hold the bit next to the screw you will know what size to use
I bought a set from Home Depot and installed them to spec.
The instructions say specifically 1/2" max height from the bottom of the draw frame to the bottom of the paneled insert.
When I close my draw, the slide rail drags on the plastic release lever. I remedied this problem using the level nlknobs to elevate the front slightly. Now, the little plastic end cap on the slide rail rubs on the fixed rail that is mounted to the cabinet?
Is there something wrong with my draw slide, or is it something I did in building.
I would like to think that no part of the slide rail should ever rub on the fixed part of the rail if it was made correctly?
I only have two sets of this style of rail, but I am starting to wonder if these rails are problematic. I'm not new to building and installing drawer slides, just trying to figure out what went wrong.
Without being able to put my hands on it to really see what's going on. I'm not sure I can offer much insight for you. I didn't think home Depot carried Blum guides. I think they are an off brand, so it's hard to say
Great video. Where do you typically get your slides and the jig? Links in the description would be helpful. Thanks
Thanks, I normally put links in the description. Unfortunately right now their is a supply chain issues due to all the crap in the world, so their is a shortage of hardware
As a result I was hesitant to put links to something that is out of stock..
These I got from Rickler and they do sell the jig.
Rickler is the most expensive place to get them.
I normally buy the from cabinet parts .com. But they were out last time I tried
Here are the links, Looks like most are instock
Blum Tandem Drawer glides
www.rockler.com/blum-tandem-full-extension-drawer-slide-kit-with-blumotion-soft-close
Installation Jig
amzn.to/3tW123S
Drill Bits Needed
amzn.to/3CwP1VB
Vix Bit
amzn.to/3lyug4I
Can you put a longer drawer on the slide, such as a 29" drawer on a 24" slide, and just attach the front clip further back? I cannot find undermount slides longer than 24". Thx,
I think it would be possible, you would have to mount the whole glide back as well. Their would be some fiddling around to get everything lined up. But I do think it's possible. The main problem would be that the drawer wouldn't open all the way.
@@Benham_Design Thanks for the quick reply. The drawers will be in a pantry with inches of space above each one, so not having full extension would not be a problem. I don't want to lose the extra 5" of length of the drawer.
Did you end up doing it? Did it work?
Great video!
I’m not convinced that jig for drilling the rear indexing hole is made correctly.
Did you notice too the locating pins on the slides themselves are in different positions right&left?
I ended up just drilling the right hand slides indexing hole by hand. Very strange
I haven't had a problem with things lining up using the jig. I wonder if the pins got moved out of their starting position.
The thing is design so that once the pins are in the holes, you can turn the plastic wheel to adjust them up and down, this adjusting the fit of the drawer.
Good stuff to know.
I don't use the Blum slides I use another brand, the slides I use hold a little more weight than the Blum and I like the front clip better, but they all work the same, I think its a huge mistake not to use the clip with adjustment, whenever you move a piece anywhere it never sits the same and the drawer faces will move and you have to adjust them back, 1000 times easier to have the adjustment also the back clip is used for face frame applications and you wouldn't need it for the cabinet you did because it was frameless.