These drawers will change your life
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- This video will cover a simple method for constructing drawers. This is what is know as the quarter, quarter, quarter drawer method. While the name can be a little misleading in most applications, it is an excellent way to make drawers, especially if you have a lot to make. The best part, they require no fasteners at all to make.
#drawers #woodworking #howto
Affiliate links to some of the items used in this video.
Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Forrest Dado King - amzn.to/3tzhLeS
iGauging Setup Blocks (Imperial) - amzn.to/33kLTQJ
Digital Calipers - amzn.to/3qABfhm
Find me on social media!
Website: www.bentswoodworking.com
Podcast: podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast...
Patreon: / bentswoodworking
Instagram: / bentswoodworking
Bent's Woodworking is Proudly Partnered With:
Festool USA - See everything that Festool USA has to offer
bit.ly/bwfestoolusa
Bessey Tool North America - The only clamps I use in my shop
bit.ly/BesseyNA
Hartzell Hardwoods - Global suppliers of terrific hardwoods like walnut, oak, hickory, and ash.
bit.ly/hartzellbw
Bent’s Woodworking Affiliates:
TSO Products - Some of the best woodworking accessories on the market
tsoproducts.com?aff=5
Bits and Bits Company - Save 10% on your order with the code BENTS10
bit.ly/bitsbitsbw
Jay's Custom Creations - Shop Jays vast collection of plans and templates jayscustomcreations.com/produ...
Rubio Monocoat - See all the finish options Rubio Monocoat has to offer www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/#ben...
These videos are for entertainment purposes only. Bent's Woodworking is not responsible for any viewer trying to recreate something demonstrated in this video. Attempting any of the techniques shown are at the viewers own risk. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[MIRRORED] LISA - ROCKSTAR 🎸 MV version #LISA #BLACKPINK #ROCKSTAR](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-U58DuCCtZk/mqdefault.jpg)
My father was a cabinet maker in the 50’s-80’s and this is how he built drawers. I have pieces that he built in the 50’s and they are still perfect today. Your videos are always so informative and your teaching style is wonderful. Please continue forever !
Glad you found it helpful
I totally agree. Very well explained. And no stupid heavy metal, macho introduction. Just good information from a guy who is obviously well-organized in his shop and his brain.
@@MarkSWilliams27 They changed my life
Thank you for supporting safety
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans th-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
I liked this method so well that i bought a cheap used 10" portable table saw, set it up for this cut (with 2 71/4" blades with paper shims) and now dedicated it for cutting drawers only. Works absolutely great and saves lots of setup time, and goes out of the way on a shelf till needed again. I named it my "rabbet lock joint saw" lol
You do a great job with narration in your videos; very clear explanation of what you are doing, your camera angles, and camera distance are excellent. I think you're one of the best at it on TH-cam. I have learned a lot from you on how's and why's, fixturing, which tools you use for which applications, and methods. I have become a better woodworker as a result and have replicated several of your builds. Thank you, and keep them coming!
Thank you very much!
I just built all the cabinets, drawers and doors for my kitchen last fall. This is the method I used for my drawer construction. Works great.
I found this video super helpful and crystal clear. Your description of the steps addressed all my questions. I am mid way through some storage cabinets, so I am looking forward to using this method. I just subscribed, and look forward to learning more. Thanks!
That explanation of 1/2 of actual material thickness nailed it home. And for safety the support tip much appreciated. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and side mount drawer glides are my preferred choice. You are a natural for these woodworking videos. I’m so glad I stumbled across your channel. Thanks so much for such clear and concise instructions.
another great instructional video for us new pandemic woodworkers! i'll give this a shot on my next set of drawers (built my first cabinet with drawers last week lol)
Nice!!
This is the BEST video I have seen on the 1/4-1/4-1/4 drawer method. You covered every consideration and eventuality involved in making these!
Really excellent!
Glad you found it helpful
Love it. This will be reference material for my projects.
Being a Mechanic by Trade , an Wood Butcher for a hobby . A set of drill bits work in a pinch for most of your common small measurements of width's & depth's
Your videos on cabinets and drawers are the best I’ve seen. Very easily understandable and direct.
Glad you like them!
Excellent Presentation. You made a very good distintion between what you preferred and other options. Thanks!
Awesome job explaining this method I’ve seen others using a quarter quarter quarter system which led to some confusion on my part your explanation call in at the half method really help solve some problems once again thank you for another great video
You’re welcome!
Great job explaining this method Jason. I used to use this method for all my drawers, but have switched to dowels since I got my dowelmax. Both are excellent ways.
I’d like to try that
This is the best video about this method. Gives me the confidence to do it! Thanks!
Well illustrated and narrated. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the demo. I know how I'm going to be making the drawers for my shop ... once I get my house built :-)
Glad you found it helpful
I wish I viewed your video first. You are spot on with the instructions in the beginning regarding the 1/2 versus the 1/4 method. There are too many videos on this method that don't bother telling the viewer you need 1/2" plywood in order for the 1/4,1/4,1/4 method to work properly. Thanks for the clarity. Well done.
Another excellent production!
🙏🏽
Awesome video, and thanks writing and going over the terminology behind each feature, face, groove, dado, etc. If you're going to learn how, might as well learn what it is your doing. You nailed it again Jason, thanks for taking the time.
Great video for this type setup. After building Many drawers (dovetail, box, Leigh dovetail jig, porter cable jig, this method, drawer lock bits, etc) I have settled on pocket holes - can not see from the back nor the front if installing a drawer front. Much faster, very strong - just works. (Furniture grade would still use my Leigh dove tail jig)
Great tutorial. I always found your style to be unique in that your instructions are clear and easy to understand. I am wondering if you might do a video of this style of drawer construction using a router table.
Great video. That's how I've always made drawers. Love your thorough description.
Great video! Thanks for veeaking down the terms and diagramming them! Well done and really helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
I build all my drawer with pocket screw. I thought joinery was too difficult for a begginer like me. I'll try this technique next time. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work! I like your videos.
Excellent video and explanation, Jason. Very helpful. Thanks.
Glad you found it helpful
Fantastic demo and explanation thanks so much. I have a project coming up I'm definitely going to use this on.
It’s a great method
I’ve not heard of this method and it looks simple, accurate and efficient. I’ll be trying it on my next set of drawers for sure. Thank you for continuing to produce excellent content that really helps beginners like me. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Glad you found it helpful!!
With a wide router table extension built in place of the right wing you can do this in less time and more ergonomically.
Hell yeah. Right on. Thank you for this. Extremely helpful.
I think you and Steve Ramsey are two of the best woodworker teachers here on TH-cam. Most everything I’ve learned has been from you guys. I love the way you teach. So precise and the writing on the demo pieces is so easy to understand. Thank you for everything you do. It’s because of you two that I fell in love with woodworking.
Thank you so much for that!
Look up Mike Farrington and Ishitani, if you want real woodworking.
As usual, Jason, good visuals, clear instruction. 👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you found it helpful
Well explained method, and in detail. Great work. Cheers
Glad you found it helpful
Good method. I’ve used it many time and works well. I will say the dado doesn’t really matter and you can increase it if you are using specific runners that require more overhang on the bottom. I think around 16mm for Blum.
Great video, Jason! I've used this method for 95% of my drawer construction most of my career!
One thing that can be done to mitigate the vertical cut is this:
When it comes time to cut the grooves for the bottom panel, add a 6mm (1/4") sacrificial fence to the table saw. This allows you to place the front/back flat on the table and make the cut in the same fashion as the sides are dadoed! You want an exact fit, so the end of the workpiece ends up flush with the edge of the saw blade, but it works beautifully, and you still don't have to move the fence or the blade. This can be a much safer technique to cut those pesky Rabbets...lol
That's a simple and elegant solution. Won't slow down the productivity much. Thanks for that.
My thoughts exactly. Nice one 👍😎🇦🇺
@@bobbray9666 I would love to try your method but I don't understand your description. The vertical cuts are nerve racking and I would like to do it horizontally . . . if only I understood.
@@number6396 You can also use your 6mm/1/4" setup block to space the piece from the fence prior to running it over the blade. Just pull your setup block out before running the piece over the blade and you'll be perfectly setup.
@@number6396 Your table saw has a fence. You will clamp onto your fence a 1/4” thick piece of plywood (or MFD or whatever you choose). This 1/4” piece is called “sacrificial” because often in other applications - say when you need to cut a narrow sliver of wood - the blade can run into this sacrificial piece of plywood without damaging your real saw fence.
In the case we’re discussing here, the “sacrificial” fence is being used as a spacer only: It is decreasing the space between your real fence and your blade by 1/4”.
Understand?
A billion thank yous. My Pops is an excellent DIY woodworker but he lives 2 hours away so here I am in youtube lol. The information and explanation you provided is awesome. thanks again
Very good demonstration, thank you! I use that method a lot for my drawers, or pocket screws in 3/4 material when I need just a couple of boxes.
Glad you found it helpful
@@bentswoodworking You have the nack to present things simply in a very immediate way. Very precious!
This was perfect. Thank you.
Very well explained & demonstrated. For those of us that cannot support a dado blade, we would make the first cut on each piece, move the fence a few mm & repeat until you reach the desired width. It's more time consuming, but it works. I tend to use the router table. Couple of test pieces & I'm ready.
Very good points Gary!
👍👍 Well done & explained in detail! Depending on what the draw is going to be used for, the front can also be covered with a veneer in order to hide outer seams. Or, you could just do different joinery on the front piece to begin with.
…drawer…..
Great video . Easy to understand and to the point . Thanks . I just subscribed .
Great demo and easy way to make drawers......thanks!
Glad you found it helpful
Bent described this sooo nice a deff person could understand it great teaching
Thank is for the clear explanation Jason!! 👍👍
You’re welcome
i liked the way you explained it
Really clear explanation. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
When running the vertical pieces, try using a speed square to cradle the workpiece. One edge rides on the top of the fence and the “T” shaped edge of the square holds the wood perfectly.
Better is to use a few scraps of baltic birch and make a sled/jig. Zero setup, perfect cuts with no misalignment possible, no extra things to do, and it’s very, very quick.
Excellent, THANK YOU !
You’re welcome
Stumpy just did a similar video and I think yours compliments his nicely. Thanks Jason!
I’ll have to check it out
Set the distance between the blade and fence first and run a sacrificial piece through with the blade set roughly .75 inch high (as long as its more than .5 inch) and set it aside. (The sacrificial piece should be longer (and >10in) than wide so safer/easier to run vertically against the fence) Next proceed to set the blade height and make cuts. When you do the rabbets use the sacrificial piece as a stop block and you can run the rabbets horizontally using the miter gauge. Hope that made sense.
That is a excellent suggestion, thank you.
I was going to suggest that since he used a setup block to set the initial distance, he could stick that against the fence near the front and use it as a stop block. You need to make sure you don't drag it forward as you cut and ensure that you're firmly holding the piece against your miter gauge,but should serve as a decent alternative method.
I don’t usually post comments but great video. This is the exact way a build drawers thanks for the vindication
You’re welcome!
This video was super helpful! Cabinet construction is something that I have yet to mess with and honestly it intimidates me. This video made me feel much more confident that I can build a sturdy drawer without worrying about brad nails, screws or crazy joints. Thanks Jason!!! 5 out of 5 stars!!! 5 more stars and you get an Armor Branch sticker mailed to your house! LMAO!!!!!
Never in a million years will I display an amror branch sticker
I may just keep sending them. 😉
Thank you for not being stuck on 1/2" material. Some guys make it sound like you MUST use 1/2" stock and exactly 1/4" dados without considering that the measurements can be adjusted for typical "1/2" inch plywood. I've used this method for all my drawers since finding out about it.
It’s a common misconception that I thought needed to be addressed. 👍
Me too. I watched the Gary Katz video several years ago and have since made many dozens of drawers this way, but it'll work for any thickness of plywood. Ya just have to adjust your dado stack for your thickness of plywood.
Great video, especially for us novices.
Glad it was helpful!
You are awesome Brent.
Thank you
Thanks! Well done!
Thank you
Good demonstration on making drawers. I've never seen a shop with a whole wall of Festools before. Impressive. Especially since I can't even afford one Festool.
Very nice and detailed video as usual. Especially showing the intricacies of the joints and the zero clearance dado plate are fantastic. It might be a little more helpful if you could elaborate a bit more on the drawer sizing part of the video. Thanks.
I plan to do a video just for that 👍
Great video Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the Smokey behind u. Semper fi sir
Vet well presentation. Great job.
Thanks 🙏
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
excellent work
Many thanks
thanks for the video.
If anyone is concerned about holding the pieces vertically to cut the rabbit, you can use a little two-sided tape and adhere your spacer block (the one you used for set up) to the table saw top, back from the blade of course, and run your pieces through on the flat. But yeah, great, simple, solid drawer construction.
I dont understand. Please explain more.
Rob has an excellent suggestion. Cut the rabbets similar to how the side datos were cut. On the other side of the wood of course. To make a rabbet instead of a dato the wood must be 6mm from the fence at all times. The spacer block can do this provided you keep it behind the blade.
@@ryanskeete I tried to explain more. See my comment.
Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome
That was a great demonstration with the panels marked up like that. I’m very new to this level. First time cabinet and drawers. I just built a mobile cabinet for my new portable/jobsite 8 1/4 table saw. I just finished cutting the panels for the drawers using this method. I just bought a Freud 6” stacked dado set that gave extremely accurate and clean bottom cuts. Unfortunately It didn’t hit me that the set didn’t start out smaller than 1/4” width. I had to make the change when it came to cutting the rabbets. No big deal, I still cut them using the vertical method because I wanted the experience. I am going to make some sort of vertical guide jig that I can eventually use for lap joints or tenons. I think I would also consider using 1/2” poplar for the next set of drawers. It could be me rushing the cuts but some of the birch plywood ended up with nasty looking voids or gaps that help the looks or fit of some of the joints. Again thanks for being straightforward and concise.
I appreciate straightforward and concise. No goofy time wasting commentary or clips from dumb movies!
Glad you found it helpful
thank you
Excellent video
Thank you
Never done drawers using this “quarter” method, another good option for future considerations.
👍🏽🇺🇸
Glad you found it helpful!!
Thank you. God bless
You’re welcome
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Nice ❤
It's a good method for most drawers and one I have used for utility drawers. But if you want to use an undermount slide like a Blum Tandem, the 1/4" distance from the underside of the bottom isn't enough. I always have that set at 12mm (1/2"). The dimension from any cross rail or cabinet bottom to the underside of the drawer is has to be 28mm to have enough space for the mechanism.
Great information, I cheated though, I bought a pre-cut drawer side from Rockler years ago and used that for my set up block. Works perfectly. Almost all of my drawers build's have been side mounts. Might have to try undermount's some day. The only thing different from your method is I sometimes add dowels to the front sides for contrasting color, and it doesn't hurt for strengthening the joint making it a bit more slam proof.
Great description of the process. Tx! For me, since I don't have a custom plate for the table saw, I'll just make all my rabbit cuts last and on their sides after resetting the saw setup with a sacrificial fence. Yah, it kind of kills the idea of one setup, but I have no other choice and want to be safe (like you pointed out at 12:10).
That’s also a great option.
All you would need is a spacer attached to the fence, positioned before the blade, that is half the thickness of your work pieces. In Jason's case, a 6mm spacer. Then you can lay your work piece flat on the table, using your miter gauge. Start the work piece against the spacer, hold it firmly in place against the miter gauge and run it past the blade.
You don't have to mess with the saw set up. The only variable is the thickness of your spacer.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 thanks!
Nice video, I found it very helpful. However I thought there was a little too much "wiggle room". I tried this with ½" (12 mm) plywood and the dado was just a bit too wide.
When using plywood that is slightly less than ½" because with a stacked dado blade set you can't cut a dado less than ¼" wide (well as far as I know anyway). I figured I wasn't the first woodworker to run into this limitation (cutting a dado slightly less than ¼") so I researched it and found a solution that I like.
The short answer is to use three 7 ¼" circular saw blades (they are only 1/16" thick) and some dado blade shims (I use Forest magnetic dado blade shims).
The long answer is to stack three 7 ¼" 18 tooth circular saw blades and some dado blade shims together. I thought it best to use an 18 tooth saw blade so there is room between the teeth to stack the blades flush. For shims I use Forest magnetic dado shims because they can’t slide down into the saw arbor's threads causing inconsistent dado widths (which is a royal PITA when trying to achieve a precise dado width). If you have a Saw Stop (I have the professional cabinet saw model) then you’ll have a problem to overcome with the brake cartridge because a 7 ¼” blade will leave too much of a gap between the blade and the blade brake causing the system initialization to fail, even when using the bypass. To get past this I cut a piece of aluminum angle iron about 2” long and cut its width to 1 ⅝” and taped it the 10” blade brake using electrical tape and then enabled the safety bypass. Do this at your OWN risk! Now that I know this method works I will find a better solution to fool the Saw Stop brake cartridge.
The result is a perfectly wide dado exactly half the width of the plywood. For me I am using ½” (12 mm) baltic birch so I needed a dado very slightly less than 6 mm wide. I used the three 7 ¼" 18 tooth circular saw blades made by Skill and one 0.015 magnetic shim for a perfect 6 mm wide dado . However, the bottom was not a flush plane… the were kerf marks. I did not have a router plane narrow enough to clean that up. So that was what I had to settle with. But I think it is a good enough dado for drawers.
Hope somebody finds this helpful.
OK I Just made my first two drawers with this method. Wow set up was tedious but worked out. The rabbits left a paper thin skin but my marking knife easily removed it. My drawer bottoms are large so cutting the rabbit all around was difficult to keep it cutting properly, i.e. I wiggled a bit but when assembled can't see it. And best of all, the drawers bit perfectly in the cabinet! Thanks for a great video. Really looking forward to your video on the assembly table base..
Glad you found it helpful!
I have an INCRA LS positioner fence. I cut a piece of scrap 3/4” plywood the width of my fence and attached another piece of 3/4” plywood at right angle flush to the front of the fence using dominoes. This forms a support for the vertical cuts without the need for a sacrificial fence. It is held in place with T bolts, wing nuts, and washers.
At 8:05 you start the explanation about safety that includes “there’s no other way to do it.” While I agree with your ultimate conclusion about the balance of safety for this specific situation, I think it’s important to be aware of what the other options are that might be needed in similar situations. The next level of safety would be to use a slide box, safer yet when combined with some type of hold-down clamp.
Again, I think you’re right that what you’re doing is reasonably safe. I just think we shouldn’t tell people it’s the only way to do it when there are other methods that can make this type of operation safer when needed.
Thank you for your input 👍👍
You mean a sled? Or is slide box something specific? One thing to consider is productivity. When you're making a ton of drawers, it matters. And one has to weigh little to no risk vs productivity. I think "Al Amantea" comment right under your comment does the same thing w/o slowing you down.
@@hansangb Aka a sled, yes. I looked at that other comment and it also looks like a good option.
I agree that you’re always balancing productivity with safety when woodworking and there’s no one perfect balance that fits every project and every person in every shop.
I’ve been looking for a video like this so thanks for making it. As a beginner I wasn’t sure if you were using a dado stack and what the width was. Also visual aids would have helped with the materials size section.
You’re welcome
@@bentswoodworking Excellent video - however, like @alrives said - What is the width of your dado stack. I assume it is 6 mm (or something very close to that. What stack width did you use/
Thanks again - for an answer and the Excellent video.
@@macoak3869 With metric plywoods I've found that I have to experiment with different stacks. I've even used non-dado blades and fiddled around with dado spacers to get the width just right.
Very interesting 👌 👍 🤔
Aha! The secret sauce is the 6mm (or 9mm for 18mm "3/4 in.") spacer block! I've tried the "1/4" method (for "1/2in." plywood) several times and the corners have never come out right . . . because I would set 1/4" up and 1/4" out then try to adjust to make everything fit, despite knowing that the plywood was 12 mm, not 12.7mm. That just never worked. Now I have the secret sauce! And the 1/4 in. (6.35mm) dado stack provides a little slop for the glue. Wonderous, thanks!
Glad you found it helpful
I use a gripper to push the sides through... I find I get more consistent dados and rabbets because the board cannot ride up the dado blade - this is especially true on longer sides. Gary Katz - ThISisCarpentry channel also posted this video in 2019... 11M views...
Next step is to show how you put on the drawer slides... I have a great system that I use but I'm curious to see how set up your drawer jig to install all the slides.
Nothing add; this has been my go to method for years.
Fantastic video on drawer making. Will you do another one for the undermounted Blum slides please.
I actually do have a video for that. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/K82l1ec7rR0/w-d-xo.html
My new dewalt table saw does now allow for dado blades or this would be a great method for drawer builds.
I've always loved this method. And I agree, with no off cut to get trapped between the blade and the fence, this is a perfectly safe practice.
If someone is really concerned about it, it's a very simple fix. Set the fence at the half inch mark and use the quarter inch spacer block against the fence for your setup. A little more involved, but so is taking the time to write a comment about how dangerous this is.
You could also avoid the vertical cut by using your setup block as a spacer against the fence and make a normal cut for the rabbits.
Yes absolutely
This is a great video, it is very easy to follow and well explained. One thing I am having trouble wrapping my head around, mostly because measurements is something that I constantly battle is determining the width of your front and back pieces. Say I want a drawer that is 10 inches wide and I am using side mount drawer slides that measure 1 inch total and using 1/2 inch plywood. For my front and back pieces would I subtract 1 inch for the drawer slides, 1 inch for the thickness of the combined material of the side pieces then add 1/2 for the Dados? brining my total length of the front and back pieces to 8 1/2 inches wide? Thanks to anyone that can help me out.
The dados will depend on the depth. For example on 1/2” material if I wanted a 10 wide drawer, and I was doing a 1/4” dado using 1/2” ply. My front and back piece would be 9 1/2”. 9+1” for the two sides. The a 1/4” for the additional material on each end to fit in the dado.
Thank you for sharing. I’m about ready to buy my first dado stack for my table saw, I have the sawstop pcs. I remember the guys setting it up telling me to go with Freud and another brand I don’t remember so I don’t have to keep adjusting the distance for the break. What dado stack are you using?
I use the dado king from Forrest
Mr Gary Katz taught me this. Also there should be very little fasteners in wood working IMO, almost zero.
Excellent video on ¼, ¼, ¼. Can you show us how to make a spline jig to make cuts on a finished drawer?
I’ll add that to the list
If you have a right-tilt saw (us guys running classic equipment ), the concern you start to talk about at ~12:07 is not as much of a concern as our dado slots grow from the opposite side so we do not get the opening to drop the workpiece in next to the fence. The times I have used this joint in drawers I used a combination blade and made 2 passes w/ a ZCI to get my dado width so it wasn't a concern regardless.
Thank you for this! I’m about to embark on an adventure of remodeling our kitchen by making my own cabinets. My question is about the dado blade you linked, the Forrest carbide blade… is there a more affordable option you could recommend for a standard ryobi table saw? I appreciate it
Freud is a good affordable option
Great technique and explanation. Personally I prefer do that method on the router table.
Another great option
Hi Jason. Thank you for your excellent video, especially for a newbie. Are you using a dadoo blade and can one buy a full throat blade cover?
Nice idea to build a drawer! I am wondering can we use this way to build kitchen cabinets?
Great video thank you for sharing, would Brad? nails be overkill?