Great video! Thanks so much for showing us 'how to' which was enough to inspire me to do my own tinny using much the same methodology. That staple gun is a savior putting the carpet on! All the best and tight lines.
Unreal bro looks amazing and practical. Few beers as your doing it. Just got myself a tinny, blank canvas and thinking of following your steps as to fitting the aluminium tubing. Was hard to find a video with the same setup as I’m working on but hey found it and thanks for sharing bud.👍🏼
I'd be interested to know how the carpet held up. As a cabinet maker, contact adhesive needs to be put on 2 surfaces so they both bond. That's why it's called contact adhesive - they are required to make contact with each other.
Great video mate, brilliant. What thickness ply did you use? Would I get away with 6mm? A couple of times a year we put the tinny on the roof of the car and do a big trip, so trying to keep weight down.
I used 12mm. So the lighter the board the more support you will need underneath it. It will still work but you need to consider the load on top of it too. How much you weigh. How many passengers etc. It will be a bit springy under foot too. Good luck
Nicola Virdo Yea. I realize that it isn't ideal but the screws & aluminum havn't reacted yet. If they do I will just have to find another way to fasten them together.👍🏾
Excuse my commenting. I think it's a dreat job! In Aluminium boats i always use Aluminium or Mobin Ribbets! If you can can Mobin Pop Ribbits! Different alloys and steel have a way of reacting together! I would always prefer putting ply wood as ply wood is cheap bouyancy!
I line how it came out but I have seen staples fail in the past from rusting away and then the head fall of the staple fall into the boat and start to corrode holes also stapling defeats the waterproof membrane
Yea. The staples are on the underside of the floor so as far as compromising the water proof membrane, it shouldn't really matter. A mate of mine stuck his down without staples. He just used clamps to hold it in place while the glue set. Whatever floats ya boat I guess. I still have the same tinny & the floor is as good as the day I made it. Sorry for the late reply. Happy boating 🚣♂️👍🏻
great idea and very good workmanship buddy but get those stainless screws the hell out of that boat, they are not friends with aluminium! never ever use stainless on a tinny it’s a big rookie mistake, you really have some great skills mate but I would get someone to tig/mig up all the joins and remove all stainless screws. boat looks so good apart from that 👍🏾
Thanks mate. What specifically do you want to know? You should use rivets where you can but sometimes you need to use screws when the rivets aren't long enough. Metal reacts with aluminum & turns it powdery but I used stainless steel screws & I've screen no sign of this happening yet. Oh.. and don't put too many holes in your boat as it weakens the frame. Just enough to hold it in place Hope this helps
Thanks for sharing mate. How would you stop water going down the sides of the deck and wetting your gear under the hatches? I been wanting to do what you did but needs to be dry storage so I can store clothes and tackle etc, cheers
Luggsy Lugs Ah mate. for dry storage you would just need to build a timber box that is screwed to the aluminum frame & sealed with warerproofing. Scott
The staples only hold the carpet untill the glue goes off. Don't waste your money on stainless steel staples. Let them rust or pull them out after the glue sticks. I probably used too many staples. Good luck
ourepiclifestyle au 12mm marine ply. It's a bit more weight for the boat but a lot less flexible when you walk on it. Didn't use a template. Just measured distance from the centre of the frame to the wall of the boat every 50mm & joined the dots. Once it fits the wall of the boat (allowing the 5mm gap for the carpet) you cut the board where the centre of the boat is then do the same for he other side. Good luck
Ky Fisher No noticeable drop in speed. It's probably only an extra 20 or 30kg. Had a race with a mate of mine & he has a smaller boat with a new Suzuki 30hp At top speed he was only just pulling away from me.
I did it in 2 halves. Find the centre of the boat & measure to the side of the boat at a 90 degree angle. Start from the bow & work your way to the stern measuring every 100mm. Replicate the measurements on the timber then join the dots free hand. Cut the timber 10mm bigger if you are not confident then you will just have to shorten the straight cut to get the centre of the boat once you have your hull shape. Don't forget to allow the 5mm that you need for the carpet thickness on all edges. Take your time. It doesn't have to be exact. The carpet pile will hide a fair bit. Hope this helped.
Yea I know. Other peiple have commented the same. It's been over 2 years. Stainless steel screws look the same as the day I put the floor in. When the aluminum deteriorates I'll sort it.
I was thinking of not cutting that angle to suit the ribs, but actually sit it on top of the ribs giving a bit more storage room, do you think that the ali tube would be strong enough to basically sit on the corner of the rib, like 3x25mm actual contact with the ribs on the gunnel sides with a support in the middle, would those tube handle the weight?
It's worth a crack. The supports are a pain in the ass fitting long objects under ylthe floor like a fishing rod or the oars. If it doesn't work it wouldn't be hard to put the centre braces in.
Scott Bailey I’ve made a start, it’s coming on pretty good. What’s your thoughts on foam under the deck? I sea a lot of people in the us putting foam under the floor, but you loose all that storage space
Doesn't matter,don't think the storage doors will last very long either with no support at the ends.The front storage should've been cut to fit better too,probably finding they needed to replace it or add more alum angle to help support the front side edges.
Those doors are awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Great video! Thanks so much for showing us 'how to' which was enough to inspire me to do my own tinny using much the same methodology.
That staple gun is a savior putting the carpet on!
All the best and tight lines.
Really nice job, love your work. Doing a 380 at the moment & your vid helped a lot
Great job thank you for the video lots of good ideas.
Great info mate I did the same rabbit ears edges on my hatches and came up a treat 👍
멋지네요
very nice video
Great video thanks. I’ve seen other videos where people have used paddle pop sticks hot glued to make the template shape.
Unreal bro looks amazing and practical. Few beers as your doing it.
Just got myself a tinny, blank canvas and thinking of following your steps as to fitting the aluminium tubing.
Was hard to find a video with the same setup as I’m working on but hey found it and thanks for sharing bud.👍🏼
Thanks for posting. Well done mate.
Great video, specially the itemised parts list. i'm gonna upgrade flooring on my tinny. now it will be easy to find the parts in big green shed.
Awesome vid, well done mate 👍
I'd be interested to know how the carpet held up. As a cabinet maker, contact adhesive needs to be put on 2 surfaces so they both bond. That's why it's called contact adhesive - they are required to make contact with each other.
@@HornetsNest-MH Still stuck tight.
Nice neat job! I done the exact same on my quintrex dart 375,thanks for the help 🤙🏽
Great vid mate .. well explained … a bit more confidence to have a go .. cheers Steve
Great video mate, brilliant. What thickness ply did you use? Would I get away with 6mm? A couple of times a year we put the tinny on the roof of the car and do a big trip, so trying to keep weight down.
I used 12mm. So the lighter the board the more support you will need underneath it.
It will still work but you need to consider the load on top of it too. How much you weigh. How many passengers etc. It will be a bit springy under foot too.
Good luck
Great job. I`m just about to do the same thing. Really appreciate this watching this video.
Hope it helps
Im your 900 sub!!! 😃😃👍
Mitch Dwyer Unreal. So happy to hit 900. Thanks so much 😃👍
@@TropicalZooms any day man! Keep it up!!!
Awesome job, thanks for the detailed account. Is the ply 12mm thick?
Yes. 12mm marine ply.
The 18mm is too heavy
FYI... 43 knots is hoooooting at about 80km/h
I was going to comment this, my 40hp etec does 22knots/40km flat out
Work of art.
Thanks champion. I was pretty bloody happy with it.
Great vid. Thanks
Top work mate. Only concern I would have is using stainless steel screws on aluminium.
Nicola Virdo
Yea. I realize that it isn't ideal but the screws & aluminum havn't reacted yet. If they do I will just have to find another way to fasten them together.👍🏾
Hey Scott I used a product called Tefgel. Well worth checking it out. Best stuff I have used.
Nicola Virdo
Cool
I'll give that a go.
Thanks
Graet ideas!
Thanks for video!
How is the floor holding up since you posted the video?? About to use waterproof membrane instead of poly epoxy and would be interested to know??
Excuse my commenting. I think it's a dreat job! In Aluminium boats i always use Aluminium or Mobin Ribbets! If you can can Mobin Pop Ribbits! Different alloys and steel have a way of reacting together! I would always prefer putting ply wood as ply wood is cheap bouyancy!
Nice video! Just the info i needed! Thnx :-)
I line how it came out but I have seen staples fail in the past from rusting away and then the head fall of the staple fall into the boat and start to corrode holes also stapling defeats the waterproof membrane
Yea.
The staples are on the underside of the floor so as far as compromising the water proof membrane, it shouldn't really matter. A mate of mine stuck his down without staples. He just used clamps to hold it in place while the glue set.
Whatever floats ya boat I guess.
I still have the same tinny & the floor is as good as the day I made it. Sorry for the late reply. Happy boating 🚣♂️👍🏻
great idea and very good workmanship buddy but get those stainless screws the hell out of that boat, they are not friends with aluminium! never ever use stainless on a tinny it’s a big rookie mistake, you really have some great skills mate but I would get someone to tig/mig up all the joins and remove all stainless screws. boat looks so good apart from that 👍🏾
Yea mate
I know what your saying but they have been in there for 2 years & are showing no sign of corrosion yet.when they do I'll change them.👍🏻
It's nice video Good 👍 I have question
Could you tell me some information about rivets and screw?
Thank you 😊
Thanks mate.
What specifically do you want to know?
You should use rivets where you can but sometimes you need to use screws when the rivets aren't long enough.
Metal reacts with aluminum & turns it powdery but I used stainless steel screws & I've screen no sign of this happening yet.
Oh.. and don't put too many holes in your boat as it weakens the frame. Just enough to hold it in place
Hope this helps
Awesome vid mate!!
Nice video mate how did you attach the nylon strap for lifting tabs?
Thanks buddy.
Hope it helped
A couple of stainless screws to hold the straps I cut off an old backpack
thanks for sharing your project
hi when you applied the waterproofing, did you roll it on or just do it with a paintbrush?
Brush
Thanks for sharing mate. How would you stop water going down the sides of the deck and wetting your gear under the hatches? I been wanting to do what you did but needs to be dry storage so I can store clothes and tackle etc, cheers
Luggsy Lugs
Ah mate.
for dry storage you would just need to build a timber box that is screwed to the aluminum frame & sealed with warerproofing.
Scott
Just use plastic tubs under your floor with snap lock lids. Might be easier & lighter for your storage.
How did you measure the inside of the boat to be precise
Ran a line down the middle and measured to the side about every 5cm. Cut it & made minor adjustments from there.
Did you use stainless steel stables, are stables to small for electrolysis if they rust and fall to the aluminum hull?
The staples only hold the carpet untill the glue goes off. Don't waste your money on stainless steel staples. Let them rust or pull them out after the glue sticks. I probably used too many staples.
Good luck
Nice job 👍
neat job man
hey Scott, how has the ply floor held up? I am looking to seal my floor the same as you? Cheers
Still looks the same as the day I made it.
9mm or 12mm Ply Scott? Did you use a carboard template to work out your cut for the ply?
ourepiclifestyle au
12mm marine ply. It's a bit more weight for the boat but a lot less flexible when you walk on it. Didn't use a template. Just measured distance from the centre of the frame to the wall of the boat every 50mm & joined the dots. Once it fits the wall of the boat (allowing the 5mm gap for the carpet) you cut the board where the centre of the boat is then do the same for he other side.
Good luck
Stainless steel screws into aluminium, bad idea. Two dissimilar metals cause corrosion. Better to weld them together.
Did you notice a drop in speed from the added weight of the flooring?
Ky Fisher
No noticeable drop in speed. It's probably only an extra 20 or 30kg.
Had a race with a mate of mine & he has a smaller boat with a new Suzuki 30hp At top speed he was only just pulling away from me.
So basically that’s my shopping list?
Yea. I guess so depending on the size of your boat.
Picked up that boat for a bargain
That's all they are worth.
Hi,have you had any issues with the plastic connectors breaking?
No mate. It's solid plasticand seems to be really strong. The weight is distributed over the entire timber floor so it's not under a lot of pressure.
50 kms 40knots?????
Luke Thomas
Yea.
Fucked up there.
I was thinking of mph not knots.
If so, you still fucked up lol
Rather use outdoor carpet adhesive.
how is the floor holding up thinking of doing the same?
Looks the same as the day I built it.
Are the board screwed down to the frame ?
No. They fit snug.
how did tyou cut the angle
I used a jigsaw. A bit of trial and error until the board fits neatly. Because the carpet goes around the angle it's pretty forgiving.
How did you template the actual deck?
I did it in 2 halves. Find the centre of the boat & measure to the side of the boat at a 90 degree angle. Start from the bow & work your way to the stern measuring every 100mm. Replicate the measurements on the timber then join the dots free hand. Cut the timber 10mm bigger if you are not confident then you will just have to shorten the straight cut to get the centre of the boat once you have your hull shape. Don't forget to allow the 5mm that you need for the carpet thickness on all edges.
Take your time. It doesn't have to be exact. The carpet pile will hide a fair bit.
Hope this helped.
I filmed it
george Bailey you did a good job G.
you should not have used stainless steel screws
Yea I know. Other peiple have commented the same.
It's been over 2 years. Stainless steel screws look the same as the day I put the floor in. When the aluminum deteriorates I'll sort it.
I was thinking of not cutting that angle to suit the ribs, but actually sit it on top of the ribs giving a bit more storage room, do you think that the ali tube would be strong enough to basically sit on the corner of the rib, like 3x25mm actual contact with the ribs on the gunnel sides with a support in the middle, would those tube handle the weight?
It's worth a crack. The supports are a pain in the ass fitting long objects under ylthe floor like a fishing rod or the oars. If it doesn't work it wouldn't be hard to put the centre braces in.
Scott Bailey I’ve made a start, it’s coming on pretty good.
What’s your thoughts on foam under the deck? I sea a lot of people in the us putting foam under the floor, but you loose all that storage space
Please buy a new staple gun.. lol
good job but u fucked the first piece😂😂😂
i think an outdoor style carpet adhesive would have been better Contact will deteriorate with moisture and UV/Heat Still nice Job !
Doesn't matter,don't think the storage doors will last very long either with no support at the ends.The front storage should've been cut to fit better too,probably finding they needed to replace it or add more alum angle to help support the front side edges.