Someone clone this guy. Super knowledgeable, attention to detail. Can’t believe he cleaned out the ball joint opening - no one else would be bothered. Best mechanic.
One thing he forgot to mention is putting anti sezie on all the bolts. Makes the next job easier. Also fuck amazone you can get everything you need at your local harbor freight
What I love about listening our host here is that I feel like I'm listening to a hybrid of Bill Burr and Jeff Anderson (Randal Graves) from Clerks (1994) and that just makes the whole experience a joy.
Do not heat up the pinch bolt, heat up the material it is threaded into. Heating up the bolt expands it into the threaded hole, requiring more force to remove.
Awesome video, really helped me with my front control arm install this weekend. I used Subaru OEM parts and they also have the additional bracket shown on your Dorman part (12:29). I used the floor jack to push the ball joint into place, with a piece of wood between the jack and ball joint. My 2009 WRX has a ground effects kit, but laying on the ground I was still able to reach in and tighten the front bushing after the car was lowered to the ground. Didn't really figure out a good way to use the torque wrench on the stabilizer bar end links so I tightened them to what I thought was about 33 ft lbs. Ball joint bolt: 36.9 ft-lb Rear plate to body: 110.6 ft-lb Rear plate to control arm: 81.1 ft-lb Front bushing: 70.1 ft-lb Stabilizer links: 33.2 ft-lb Stabilizer bushings: 18.4 ft-lb Front crossmember support plate: 44.3 ft-lb
A big thanks for walking us home mechanics through this. I was able to follow along and nail the swap-out of my 2013 Subaru Impreza lower front control arms like a pro!
Thank you! Replaced my control arms, stabilizer bushings and tie bar links for over 1k less than two shops had quoted me. This guide was great and was very clear. The bolts on the rear most mounting plate were 19mm on my car instead of 18mm, but I have an impreza outback sport so maybe that's what the difference was. Figured I would post here in case anyone else ran into that.
Just a quick thank you for taking the time to film and post this, you gave me the confidence to tackle this on my son's first car which is a 2008 Impreza. Super helpful.
Thank you so much for this video! I was able to replace the controls arms on my 2012 Impreza and your directions and tips helped a lot. The car has been mostly drive on the east coast and finally for a couple of years near NYC. I applied lots of penetrating oil in the knuckle slit and every bolt I had to take off in the control arm a week before and then night before too. The hardest part was removing the pinch bolt without breaking it. I had to use an 18 inch breaker bar and go slowly on the pinch bolt and keep applying the oil every 5 minutes. It was stuck on there for good. The pinch bolts are in bad shape and I will be installing new ones. The ball joint was tough also, and needed lots of hammering. Had to use a piece of steel tube as pine 2x4 would break. Towards the end of the video you lower the car and tighten one of the bolts on the control arm. I look at my repair manual and it says to torque down the same bolt (70.1 ft-lb) PLUS torque down the rear bolt to 81.1 ft-lb at curb weight too. I think after this replacement my steering wheel is off to right for about 15 degrees but no other issues and the front suspension is quiet now. Next I will have to replace the front strut mount as the rubber has cracked a lot (I think you have a video for that too). I think finally will have to do a wheel alignment. I think it should fix the steering wheel being not centered? Thanks again!
Fantastic video! I used this as reference when changing the control arms and sway bar links on my 2011 forester. You helped me save a lot of money, Thank you! I also appreciate you including torque specs.
Thanks for the post! Best how-to I found for my 2013 wrx. Only issue was the lower pinch bolt and getting the ball joint out. Knocking it with wood did not work, even used an 8lb sledge. Figured out a little trick using sockets wedged between pinch knuckle and control arm
Awesome video. Was extremely reluctant to tackle this job until we found your video. Took away a lot if the anxiety and had both lower control arms on our 2007 Subaru Forester. Two notes: the bracket you talk about on the new arms is present on the Forester but nothing is connected to them. Also, the bolts on the rear bracket and nut under the bushing are 19mm.
Very helpful video. I was able to replace my control arms on a 2008 Impreza this weekend following these directions. Only comment is that my ball joints took significantly more than a few good whacks!
It’s really nice to see a video where a guy is using just handtools not Fancy Milwaukee’s or higher and air tools specialty tools He’s doing the job what what people have you might have to go by the hex sockets but he’s doing the job with simple handtools
Superb! Great level of detail. Thank you. I replaced the driver's side this weekend on my Legacy sedan. It has body cladding and is almost impossible to get under without jacking it up. I tightened the pinch bolt on the ball joint and the rear bushing while the car was still on jack stands. I put the wheel back on and tried using ramps to load the suspension to tighten the front bushing, but no luck because the frame was in the way and I could not rotate the torque wrench. I ended up taking off the wheel, putting it on a jack stand on the side pinch weld, putting a floor jack under the control arm by the ball joint to lift the car slightly off the jack stand (just barely), and tightening the front bushing of the control arm to 70 ft-lbs. I hope that suffices.
I noticed another thing in the manual that said both the rear and front bushings should be tightened after the car is on the ground. I saw you tightened the rear bushing when the car was still on jack stand. Is that a concern? I did what you did except for the front bushing that was tricky as I described above.
Thanks for the detailed video! Live in the rust belt, soaked the heck out of everything with PB blaster. Driver side ball joint took forever to pop out, passenger side took 3 hits and was out. Huge improvement on the vehicle. Thanks again!
Why does the whole arm need to be replaced and not just the bushings? Or are the bushings just a part of the control arm that are not seperable? Either way, thank you for the video!
Similar on my 2005 RS, except each step is much more complex when rusted, crusted and seized on old cars here in New England. kinda similar, but many other techniques and tools are required. Good, thanks.
I appreciate this video. For some reason I was thinking this required compressing the struts. A shop just quoted me $550 just to replace the lower CA's if I bought my own parts. Fairly comparable shop price, I imagine, but we all know that doesn't fly with the DIYer.
Excellent tutorial, many thanks! Question: To replace LCA and strut assembly, is it better to do one first and then the other or can they be done at the same time?
Excellent and exceptional video. Greetings from Jamaica. I have a Subaru Impreza 2017. I'm assuming that this is the same method, yes? I'd have to watch your video again and just look under my car to see if it's similar
Excellent video. I suspect my lower control bushings are busted, because of a metal to metal noise I'm hearing coming from the front so maybe I'll replace both control arms.
Where the arm meets the chassis would it be alright to tighten it with the front wheel on car ramps or does it have to be flat? Just asking as my car is pretty low and there’s no way I’d be able to get under there
I know this is old but if you have a separate jack and the vehicle is on stands just Jack up the knuckle or rotor close to where it sits naturally. Ramps would work as well.
If you torqued it before lowering the car the bushing would be locked in place and constantly under torsion. You want the suspension "at rest" (on the ground) so the bushing is locked in at that position.
Could I use car ramps for the tightening of the last control arm bolt? That way I could get under the car as my legacy sits fairly low to the ground. I would assume so but just curious
Just did the same job on my 2013 legacy unfortunately both pinch bolts snapped so I had to drill them out and replace with a different bolt... now the car make a popping noise while driving (taking turns and Breaking) any tips to fix this???
Replaces the link on the driver side had to cut it out. I replaced with a MOOG. It’s doesn’t look right. It’s not vertical, it seems to be on a angle.The link I cut out was vertical. The video you made shows you changing to a MOOG, however, it’s vertical. Any suggestions I would appreciate.Also, excellent video.
I’ve replaced both my control arms and torqued it on the ground however I’m getting some creaking and light pops from both sides, worse on the driver side, while driving at low speeds. Any idea what this could be? I’ve retorqued everything with no improvements.
Did you wait to fully tighten the control arms once vehicle was a normal ride hight ? My new controller arms say do tighten bushings when vehicle is at ride hight to avoid premature bushing wear
Not to be pedantic, but T30 is not an Allen key. My Haynes manual also said to use an Allen, so there I was, trying to find the proper size Allen key, and chalked up the looseness to some of the metal rusting away. I rounded out the keyway, so I used a grinder to cut it out. Wasted tons of time, had to get a ride to the parts store, had to buy a new part that I hadn't planned on replacing, and ended up missing work the next day because the job wasn't done and my car was still up on blocks. I bought a new one, with an obvious Torx keyway, and checked the old undamaged bolt, that I also cut out instead of fighting it again, and the Torx was a perfect fit. Allen is a hexagonal bit. The typical wrench used that we associate with it is an 'L-wrench', which may cause some confusion due to the similar phonetics. The Torx, or star bit, also comes as an L- wrench.
Doing this job on a 2006 Outback, and had to use a torch because (almost) everything was frozen. The stud for the rear bushing came out of the chassis instead of the nut coming loose. I have a new stud on order from Subaru, just wondering if this has ever happened to you, and if you have any warnings or tips about reinstalling it
@@CarsNToys Found out the deepest socket I had wasn't deep enough, but luckily the new bolt cranked right up in with a wrench. Clogged or buggered threads weren't an issue this time!
On my car the bolt is seized had to cut it apart with saw zaw cut out the frame were it's mounted drill out the bolt on drill press and weld it back together totally sucks
I need to do this job. Is it easier to remove the ball joint from the knuckle or is it easier to remove the control arm from the ball joint? I am assuming the ball joint is still OK. It is the front bushing in my case that is totally shot. I know most people say replace everything since your doing the work now, but I need the quickest, easiest, cheapest solution.
Replace the control arm and ball joint as one unit. It will save you a lot of time (and possible frustration). They're inexpensive for the most part - amzn.to/2ARVUGO
For the final part, it seems like you need to drop the car to have the LCA take weight. Could I just drive the car onto a ramp then? Otherwise...how else would I get access to that bolt?
@@CarsNToys Believe when I say, dremels are not the way. It took me 5 hrs to get that stupid thing off. Now I cant seem to get the ball joint out. I tried the wood thing you did, knocking the knuckle (mars it up) and a torch. Nothing works so far. Tomorrow morning, Im headed to the autozone to rent a pickle fork. Any ideas if that doesnt work?
Hey man, any chance you know what special tool you need to fix the long bolt @13:41 can’t seem to find what it’s called, mines moving and making annoying noises when I drive
I wish you would do a video on replacing the lower control arm on your 1997 Nissan Maxima cause I need do it on my 95 Maxima and there's no good video on it.
Being from the noertheast, I think letting PB Blaster sit on the pinch bolt "for a few minutes or even overnight" is absolutely adorable. You need to tell the bolt you're going to kill its entire extended family and serve them as the main course in a cannibalistic debauchery in the name of the God of of Pneumatic Tools. On my own Subie I sprayed PB everywhere everyday for a week before I did the job and used an air hammer sparingly, but enough to rattle the top few layers of rust and grime loose.
This job kind of sucks to line things up. Also the end of my stud in the back was damaged and I didn't notice because the impact took the nut right off. But when I went to put the nut back on (last nut to install on the whole job) it had resistance. So I thought I can just overcome it with the impact. Nope. Then I had to cut the nut off and now I really need a stud and a nut and the car is stuck in the garage at least two more days because neither of my dealers stocks that stud in the back of the lower control arm.
Very well done video but its not that easy for everyone. Just did this job on a 2013 Outback. 10yrs in Michigan, not even a 1200 ft lb impact would budge the fastners. Every one had to be cut, what a mess.
Hey I’m not sure if anyone will see this, but the bolt for the ball joint on my car was so rusted over it just wasn’t budging so I drilled it out. But for some reason I still can’t get the ball joint out. I’ve spent a lot of money already trying to fix it and it’s really eating at my savings at this point.
Someone clone this guy. Super knowledgeable, attention to detail. Can’t believe he cleaned out the ball joint opening - no one else would be bothered. Best mechanic.
Good mechanics do steps like this. And he’s right if it makes it easier to installs its worth doing
One thing he forgot to mention is putting anti sezie on all the bolts. Makes the next job easier. Also fuck amazone you can get everything you need at your local harbor freight
What I love about listening our host here is that I feel like I'm listening to a hybrid of Bill Burr and Jeff Anderson (Randal Graves) from Clerks (1994) and that just makes the whole experience a joy.
Thanks so much for this tutorial bud, it saves me $200 for labor. all i need now is wheel alignment.
Do not heat up the pinch bolt, heat up the material it is threaded into. Heating up the bolt expands it into the threaded hole, requiring more force to remove.
Awesome video, really helped me with my front control arm install this weekend. I used Subaru OEM parts and they also have the additional bracket shown on your Dorman part (12:29). I used the floor jack to push the ball joint into place, with a piece of wood between the jack and ball joint. My 2009 WRX has a ground effects kit, but laying on the ground I was still able to reach in and tighten the front bushing after the car was lowered to the ground. Didn't really figure out a good way to use the torque wrench on the stabilizer bar end links so I tightened them to what I thought was about 33 ft lbs.
Ball joint bolt: 36.9 ft-lb
Rear plate to body: 110.6 ft-lb
Rear plate to control arm: 81.1 ft-lb
Front bushing: 70.1 ft-lb
Stabilizer links: 33.2 ft-lb
Stabilizer bushings: 18.4 ft-lb
Front crossmember support plate: 44.3 ft-lb
Thank you. Appreciate the torque specs
Yes thank you for the torque specs
I've successfully done my Subaru Forester 2010 following your video.
Thank you very much!
A big thanks for walking us home mechanics through this. I was able to follow along and nail the swap-out of my 2013 Subaru Impreza lower front control arms like a pro!
Thank you, the 2x4 and hammer to drop the ball joint was just what I needed to drop the ball joints for a clutch job on a forester.
Thank you! Replaced my control arms, stabilizer bushings and tie bar links for over 1k less than two shops had quoted me. This guide was great and was very clear. The bolts on the rear most mounting plate were 19mm on my car instead of 18mm, but I have an impreza outback sport so maybe that's what the difference was. Figured I would post here in case anyone else ran into that.
Glad it helped!
This is a huge help. Same setup on my 2014 Subaru forester.
I’m about to do this on my 2014 Forrester any advice?
This guy does a quality job teaching. The he walks you through it is just easy understand
Best video I've seen on these lower control arms. Doing mine tomorrow!
Just a quick thank you for taking the time to film and post this, you gave me the confidence to tackle this on my son's first car which is a 2008 Impreza. Super helpful.
Thank you so much for this video!
I was able to replace the controls arms on my 2012 Impreza and your directions and tips helped a lot.
The car has been mostly drive on the east coast and finally for a couple of years near NYC.
I applied lots of penetrating oil in the knuckle slit and every bolt I had to take off in the control arm a week before and then night before too.
The hardest part was removing the pinch bolt without breaking it. I had to use an 18 inch breaker bar and go slowly on the pinch bolt and keep applying the oil every 5 minutes. It was stuck on there for good. The pinch bolts are in bad shape and I will be installing new ones.
The ball joint was tough also, and needed lots of hammering. Had to use a piece of steel tube as pine 2x4 would break.
Towards the end of the video you lower the car and tighten one of the bolts on the control arm. I look at my repair manual and it says to torque down the same bolt (70.1 ft-lb) PLUS torque down the rear bolt to 81.1 ft-lb at curb weight too.
I think after this replacement my steering wheel is off to right for about 15 degrees but no other issues and the front suspension is quiet now.
Next I will have to replace the front strut mount as the rubber has cracked a lot (I think you have a video for that too).
I think finally will have to do a wheel alignment. I think it should fix the steering wheel being not centered?
Thanks again!
Fantastic video! I used this as reference when changing the control arms and sway bar links on my 2011 forester. You helped me save a lot of money, Thank you! I also appreciate you including torque specs.
Thanks for the post! Best how-to I found for my 2013 wrx. Only issue was the lower pinch bolt and getting the ball joint out. Knocking it with wood did not work, even used an 8lb sledge. Figured out a little trick using sockets wedged between pinch knuckle and control arm
Awesome video. Was extremely reluctant to tackle this job until we found your video. Took away a lot if the anxiety and had both lower control arms on our 2007 Subaru Forester. Two notes: the bracket you talk about on the new arms is present on the Forester but nothing is connected to them. Also, the bolts on the rear bracket and nut under the bushing are 19mm.
Thank you so much for this video! I just replaced my control arm today it was my first time working on my car too.
Very helpful video. I was able to replace my control arms on a 2008 Impreza this weekend following these directions. Only comment is that my ball joints took significantly more than a few good whacks!
Excellent video, telling bolt sizes and torque values saved searching!
What's the idea of lowering the car before tightening the front bushing bolt? I've seen others skip this step.
You always want to tighten bushings with a normal load on them, anywhere they are located.
Otherwise, the rubber portion bonded to the inner and outer shells will be twisted at normal ride height position, and likely fail prematurely.
This is one of the clearest videos. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I don't even have a Subaru but I watched the whole thing, lol. Very well done video! Need to do this on my Mazda MPV.
It’s really nice to see a video where a guy is using just handtools not Fancy Milwaukee’s or higher and air tools specialty tools He’s doing the job what what people have you might have to go by the hex sockets but he’s doing the job with simple handtools
Superb! Great level of detail. Thank you. I replaced the driver's side this weekend on my Legacy sedan. It has body cladding and is almost impossible to get under without jacking it up. I tightened the pinch bolt on the ball joint and the rear bushing while the car was still on jack stands. I put the wheel back on and tried using ramps to load the suspension to tighten the front bushing, but no luck because the frame was in the way and I could not rotate the torque wrench. I ended up taking off the wheel, putting it on a jack stand on the side pinch weld, putting a floor jack under the control arm by the ball joint to lift the car slightly off the jack stand (just barely), and tightening the front bushing of the control arm to 70 ft-lbs. I hope that suffices.
I noticed another thing in the manual that said both the rear and front bushings should be tightened after the car is on the ground. I saw you tightened the rear bushing when the car was still on jack stand. Is that a concern? I did what you did except for the front bushing that was tricky as I described above.
Thank you! With your support it was much more easy to remove the control arms
I never saw that deep socket and extension used for leverage before and I've been at cars for years. Lol. Nice!
Thanks for the detailed video! Live in the rust belt, soaked the heck out of everything with PB blaster. Driver side ball joint took forever to pop out, passenger side took 3 hits and was out. Huge improvement on the vehicle. Thanks again!
The torque values were very helpful, thank you!
Thank you for the excellent tutorial. Hit the front struts n control arms today n crushed it. Good stuff
Great vid. Going to do this to my Forester SH next few months. That car is lifted and the LCA starts cracking last weeks when offroading.
How does your body fit under the vehicle to tighten that last bolt with the vehicle lowered?
Why does the whole arm need to be replaced and not just the bushings? Or are the bushings just a part of the control arm that are not seperable? Either way, thank you for the video!
@CarsNToys 16:02 looks like you have a broken control arm mount center middle of screen.
Similar on my 2005 RS, except each step is much more complex when rusted, crusted and seized on old cars here in New England. kinda similar, but many other techniques and tools are required. Good, thanks.
I appreciate this video. For some reason I was thinking this required compressing the struts. A shop just quoted me $550 just to replace the lower CA's if I bought my own parts. Fairly comparable shop price, I imagine, but we all know that doesn't fly with the DIYer.
Absolutely brilliant -thank you. I have a Forester, but its going to be very similar. Some interesting techniques for the layman!
You made installing the sway bar end link way too easy... This has been the hardest part for me
Do you recommend replacing both of the sway bar end links whenever you swap out new control arms?
Excellent tutorial, many thanks!
Question: To replace LCA and strut assembly, is it better to do one first and then the other or can they be done at the same time?
Excellent and exceptional video. Greetings from Jamaica. I have a Subaru Impreza 2017. I'm assuming that this is the same method, yes? I'd have to watch your video again and just look under my car to see if it's similar
Very well done . Great step by step instructions.
Thank you. Happy to help.
Excellent video. I suspect my lower control bushings are busted, because of a metal to metal noise I'm hearing coming from the front so maybe I'll replace both control arms.
Where the arm meets the chassis would it be alright to tighten it with the front wheel on car ramps or does it have to be flat? Just asking as my car is pretty low and there’s no way I’d be able to get under there
I know this is old but if you have a separate jack and the vehicle is on stands just Jack up the knuckle or rotor close to where it sits naturally. Ramps would work as well.
why did you wait to torque that last bolt? did i miss the explaination?
If you torqued it before lowering the car the bushing would be locked in place and constantly under torsion. You want the suspension "at rest" (on the ground) so the bushing is locked in at that position.
Your video helped me tremendously. I thank you graciously for saving me loads of cash!
Can't change only the bushes on the lower control arm? Should change the whole thing?
Could I use car ramps for the tightening of the last control arm bolt? That way I could get under the car as my legacy sits fairly low to the ground. I would assume so but just curious
Absolutely
i bought one arm, how much would the mechanic charge to replace it?
Thank you so much, man!! We have a Crosstrek but this was basically the same! Take care!
I’m about to do the same on my ‘14 crosstrek, you run into any issues or anything that slowed you down?
Just did the same job on my 2013 legacy unfortunately both pinch bolts snapped so I had to drill them out and replace with a different bolt... now the car make a popping noise while driving (taking turns and Breaking) any tips to fix this???
Is an alignment necessary after replacing the lower control arms?
Replaces the link on the driver side had to cut it out. I replaced with a MOOG. It’s doesn’t look right. It’s not vertical, it seems to be on a angle.The link I cut out was vertical. The video you made shows you changing to a MOOG, however, it’s vertical. Any suggestions I would appreciate.Also, excellent video.
I’ve replaced both my control arms and torqued it on the ground however I’m getting some creaking and light pops from both sides, worse on the driver side, while driving at low speeds. Any idea what this could be? I’ve retorqued everything with no improvements.
Maybe tie rods?
how long does a bushing for subarus lasts? should go for oem replacement or any other better brands?
What would you do if the sway bar link nut won't come off and just spins with the threaded bolt?
Did you wait to fully tighten the control arms once vehicle was a normal ride hight ? My new controller arms say do tighten bushings when vehicle is at ride hight to avoid premature bushing wear
Nice work sir. I need to replace my lower control arm on my Forester
Not to be pedantic, but T30 is not an Allen key.
My Haynes manual also said to use an Allen, so there I was, trying to find the proper size Allen key, and chalked up the looseness to some of the metal rusting away. I rounded out the keyway, so I used a grinder to cut it out.
Wasted tons of time, had to get a ride to the parts store, had to buy a new part that I hadn't planned on replacing, and ended up missing work the next day because the job wasn't done and my car was still up on blocks.
I bought a new one, with an obvious Torx keyway, and checked the old undamaged bolt, that I also cut out instead of fighting it again, and the Torx was a perfect fit.
Allen is a hexagonal bit. The typical wrench used that we associate with it is an 'L-wrench', which may cause some confusion due to the similar phonetics. The Torx, or star bit, also comes as an L- wrench.
13:45 Hey man what is the part and special removal tool that you're referring too?
did you replace the front sway bar bushings AND sway bar links?
Did you happen to have any issues with the pinch bolts going back in all the way but not tightening and just spinning?
Doing this job on a 2006 Outback, and had to use a torch because (almost) everything was frozen. The stud for the rear bushing came out of the chassis instead of the nut coming loose. I have a new stud on order from Subaru, just wondering if this has ever happened to you, and if you have any warnings or tips about reinstalling it
Bummer. You may need a special tool to reinsert the stud. I've been lucky so far but most of the Subu's I've worked on are newer.
@@CarsNToys Found out the deepest socket I had wasn't deep enough, but luckily the new bolt cranked right up in with a wrench. Clogged or buggered threads weren't an issue this time!
On my car the bolt is seized had to cut it apart with saw zaw cut out the frame were it's mounted drill out the bolt on drill press and weld it back together totally sucks
Do you need an alignment after installing?
I need to do this job. Is it easier to remove the ball joint from the knuckle or is it easier to remove the control arm from the ball joint? I am assuming the ball joint is still OK. It is the front bushing in my case that is totally shot. I know most people say replace everything since your doing the work now, but I need the quickest, easiest, cheapest solution.
Replace the control arm and ball joint as one unit. It will save you a lot of time (and possible frustration). They're inexpensive for the most part - amzn.to/2ARVUGO
Another great video!!! This is so helpful. Thank you very much.
How long does this repair actually take, thanks
CarsNToys, thanks for the awesome video. Does it need wheel alignment after replacing the control arm?
Do it old alignments preset on old bushing won't be the same due to the new material
Great video!. Super helpful! Thanks a lot. Goes to my TH-cam library righ now
Should you also do an alignment after replacing both arms?
You really should. Chances are slim that the setting would be within specs.
For the final part, it seems like you need to drop the car to have the LCA take weight. Could I just drive the car onto a ramp then? Otherwise...how else would I get access to that bolt?
how’s the dorman control arm holding?
are these the same with regards to a 2011 forester?
Good trick using the extension for a breaker bar.
Any edge I can get! Cheers.
Lol no its not
I had to dremel/die grind my sway bar link off. It was completely frozen and the allen key holes were stripped.
Oh yes...gotta love Subaru!
@@CarsNToys Believe when I say, dremels are not the way. It took me 5 hrs to get that stupid thing off. Now I cant seem to get the ball joint out. I tried the wood thing you did, knocking the knuckle (mars it up) and a torch. Nothing works so far. Tomorrow morning, Im headed to the autozone to rent a pickle fork. Any ideas if that doesnt work?
Just got quoted $1800 to get this done on both sides...seems pretty straight forward....
Hey man, any chance you know what special tool you need to fix the long bolt @13:41 can’t seem to find what it’s called, mines moving and making annoying noises when I drive
Yes. Let me see if I can dig it up.
Part - st20299ag020. I did a quick search and it seems rather hard to find. Maybe a tool rental shop..?
CarsNToys cheers bro
CarsNToys very hard to find any chance you have a link to it
I wish you would do a video on replacing the lower control arm on your 1997 Nissan Maxima cause I need do it on my 95 Maxima and there's no good video on it.
Great video man keep up the content 👍...... if you do exhaust work could you do a video on 2003 f150 manifold replacement
What’s the special tool to remove the ball joint stud? If that’s even what it’s called
Being from the noertheast, I think letting PB Blaster sit on the pinch bolt "for a few minutes or even overnight" is absolutely adorable. You need to tell the bolt you're going to kill its entire extended family and serve them as the main course in a cannibalistic debauchery in the name of the God of of Pneumatic Tools.
On my own Subie I sprayed PB everywhere everyday for a week before I did the job and used an air hammer sparingly, but enough to rattle the top few layers of rust and grime loose.
Thank you for the very helpful instructional video.
Great detail video thanks for explaining
Do you know the torque specs for the rear bushing bolt
Thank you for the video extremely helpful
You adding the torque spec was awesome! 🙌🔥
thanks again for a clear detailed video
Thanks brother. We used this as a guide to change my outback’s front controls arms. Excellent info and tips. 👍
Silly question, why can’t you tighten the bolts up while the car is up on the stands instead of taken the car off them?
they do make short torque wrenchs for such a problem as that last bolt at the end.
Outstanding video!
This job kind of sucks to line things up. Also the end of my stud in the back was damaged and I didn't notice because the impact took the nut right off. But when I went to put the nut back on (last nut to install on the whole job) it had resistance. So I thought I can just overcome it with the impact. Nope. Then I had to cut the nut off and now I really need a stud and a nut and the car is stuck in the garage at least two more days because neither of my dealers stocks that stud in the back of the lower control arm.
Very helpful!
Thanks for a great video
Very well done video but its not that easy for everyone. Just did this job on a 2013 Outback. 10yrs in Michigan, not even a 1200 ft lb impact would budge the fastners. Every one had to be cut, what a mess.
Hey I’m not sure if anyone will see this, but the bolt for the ball joint on my car was so rusted over it just wasn’t budging so I drilled it out. But for some reason I still can’t get the ball joint out. I’ve spent a lot of money already trying to fix it and it’s really eating at my savings at this point.
Need help - only made it 6 minutes in and broke off my toes but… haven’t been in this situation before - what do I do?
Very Very good , thank's ! Obrigado ! 🤗🇧🇷
Awesome video, thanks! There are no clear videos showing the front jack point either so you killed 2 birds with one video!
Happy to help
Just what I needed. I'm sure is the same for the legacy
Was it? I need to do it