I've been running a custom check valve for over 10 years on my truck running a 3.3R whipple over compound (63/80) turbos. makes 95psi full tilt. I like your rig. I'm happy you came to basically the same conclusions I did. I really wanted a monster truck to run a blower/compound system but the guys that have them didnt want to bother with trying it.
Yeah, I thought about all kinds of ways to bypass the SC, but in the end this was by far the simplest. I raced it back in September and it worked great.
I've been eyeing your kit for YEARS. Soon as I have some fun money, I want that whipple on my 02 2500. I've already got studs, injectors, tuner, and a 62mm phat shaft, I'm really interested to see how much boost is retained shifting the old NV5600 6-speed.
Growing up with the love of the machine the one thing I was always told was that you could turbocharge a supercharger but you can't supercharge a turbo. That said..... I am kinda blown away that you have successfully done what I was previously learned to be impossible. I am attempting this twin charge on my own, no sponsors at all, everything out of pocket. I wish I could get a sponsor for this rig. It's been 10 years in the making but I know it's all been done right and not a back yard hack job. Post more about this!!! I'd like to know your trials and tribulations on this whole thing.
Nice, good luck with your rig. Compound turbos work on the same principle. You can push as much air as you like through a turbo, however if you push too much air into a supercharger, you can bend the rotors. I haven’t really had any trials or tribulations with the race car. I’ve broken the engine mounts and a few high steer arms when I hit stuff really hard, but it’s worked pretty much flawlessly since I put the bypass on. I will be switching to a belt driven power steering pump and building a custom oil pan so I can lower the engine about 4”. Stay tuned.
@@irionmotorsports I have compounds on our tow pig and it helped a whole lot with efficiency and easy of power. The turbo lag is still there but when pulling livestock that lag is very useful. The main reason I was wanting to do a twin charged on my toy rig was because of that lag. Figuring out a way to have power off idle all the way through to red line has been my end goal. I've never heard of bending the rotors though, but of course I don't have a lot of experience with supers. I will say that I'm only looking for around 500 ponies but I want that 500 to be ridiculously efficient and my aim is around mid 20s for mpg. I've built so far to carry 100 gallons and as much of the rig to be mechanical as possible. There are a few areas I haven't gotten far enough to figure out yet, like cruise control and gear security, and the biggest concern is tire fitment. I want to run 40s+ but range of operation has serious limits unless I do careless or crazy... wheel spacers or figuring out how to make the axle/housing just a little wider... In any case, thankyou for your content, it's been very helpful.
Nice, I used to have a rig like that that I hauled with. Compounds, p-pumped 24v, 10 speed transmission. I eventually just got a semi. I used a Dakota digital cruise control. It worked well. I have a lot of pictures of my ten speed swap, maybe I’ll make a video out of it sometime. I ran 17.5 commercial tires and rims on it, because the 10 ply truck tires were only lasting 15k. It was a tech from Whipple that warned me about bending the rotors.
@@irionmotorsports bro.... I was going to do an Eaton 10 speed, the only reason I didn't was because of the down shifting issue... straight cut gears don't like to shift down if the truck is speeding up ( down hill slope ) that's why I went with the nv5600 and a gear vendors box to have the ability to split the gears... As for the ppump 24v, I ha e strongly considered it on my daily driver because I have had a random dead pedal for years and can't seem to figure out why... changed the tpps a half a dozen times, the lift pump and injection pump, put in a boost fooler, changed the engine harness, it's just so random and no clue what causes it. Even paid 3 different shops to fix it and all 3 only changed the tpps.... which didn't fix it. Ironically, collecting the parts to do the swap is how I ended up with the 12v that's is going in my toy rig.
This is super helpful ND great job by the way. I have been planning to build a 4cyl diesel to stuff in a side by side. Plans are nearly the same with supercharger into turbo. I planned to have a secondary air intake with one way valve just in case the turbo pulled more. I like the way you did this.
Hey mate, this is awesome info! Im from aus and im planning on twin charging my 3L 4jj1 dmax. Been really hard to find info on twin charging a diesel as it seems all anyone wants is peak power and dont care about response. About to binge watch all your vids and share them to all my mates because this is just stupid cool!
There’s a few reasons. I haven’t seen a clutch for a whipple, but if they make them I wouldn’t have space. I only have about a 1/4” to spare. It’s way more complicated, and there’s more things to go wrong. You don’t just need a clutch, but also the sensors and switches to run it. The biggest reason though is it doesn’t in any way solve my problem. You still have to have a bypass valve otherwise your engine would have zero airflow when the clutch is open. I try to build things as simple as possible with the least number of moving parts. This is especially important when it comes to off road racing. This is a simple check valve that doesn’t rely on any sensors, switches, vacuum lines, diaphragms, or linkages.
Hey man I love it! I’m getting ready to put a supercharger on my cummins also with my S475! What type of bypass valve was that? I’m Looking at using a boost actuated valve for mine possible
Hey hopefully you’re still answering questions. This is a yr old now lol. So have you considered a blow off valve at the intake to keep your small pulley on the sc? It would be pretty easy to set it to 5 lbs below 1000 rpm and 40 lbs above that. Throttle response should be really crisp and it will idle nicely. Idk 🤷♂️ maybe Anyhow thanks.
I haven’t considered doing that. When I’m fabricating I try to keep things a simple as possible. I don’t see how you would gain anything from adding that a blowoff valve and it’s one more thing to go wrong. I could just run the small pulley without any of that complication, it’s just not really necessary. I have instant throttle response, the turbo spools quick, and I don’t want any more power. I’d just break more stuff. There’s lots of ways to twincharge a diesel and just about anything you do is going to be way better than a single or even compounds. If you’ve got the space, I’d say go for it and see if it makes a difference.
@@aubreyirion that makes sense. Really enjoyed the video. It’s an idea I’ve tossed around for a while and running across your video was a real helpful confirmation. Thanks.
Well, that would work in a pinch, but there's a few issues. It wouldn't be quite the right size because they only come in one inch increments and the elbows are larger than the pipe. For example a 4" pvc pipe has an OD of around 4.5 and an elbow has an flange OD of around 5". That means I would have to use a 3" pvc elbow which would mean the passageway would go from 4" to 3" to 4" and then be necked down to the turbo inlet size. Another issue is the air is hot coming from the SC and pvc tends to break down over time with repeated heating and cooling cycles and exposure to uv. The biggest issue though would be finding a way to mount my bypass valve to it.
I've been running a custom check valve for over 10 years on my truck running a 3.3R whipple over compound (63/80) turbos. makes 95psi full tilt. I like your rig. I'm happy you came to basically the same conclusions I did. I really wanted a monster truck to run a blower/compound system but the guys that have them didnt want to bother with trying it.
Yeah, I thought about all kinds of ways to bypass the SC, but in the end this was by far the simplest. I raced it back in September and it worked great.
I've been eyeing your kit for YEARS. Soon as I have some fun money, I want that whipple on my 02 2500. I've already got studs, injectors, tuner, and a 62mm phat shaft, I'm really interested to see how much boost is retained shifting the old NV5600 6-speed.
Growing up with the love of the machine the one thing I was always told was that you could turbocharge a supercharger but you can't supercharge a turbo.
That said.....
I am kinda blown away that you have successfully done what I was previously learned to be impossible. I am attempting this twin charge on my own, no sponsors at all, everything out of pocket. I wish I could get a sponsor for this rig. It's been 10 years in the making but I know it's all been done right and not a back yard hack job. Post more about this!!! I'd like to know your trials and tribulations on this whole thing.
Nice, good luck with your rig. Compound turbos work on the same principle. You can push as much air as you like through a turbo, however if you push too much air into a supercharger, you can bend the rotors. I haven’t really had any trials or tribulations with the race car. I’ve broken the engine mounts and a few high steer arms when I hit stuff really hard, but it’s worked pretty much flawlessly since I put the bypass on. I will be switching to a belt driven power steering pump and building a custom oil pan so I can lower the engine about 4”. Stay tuned.
@@irionmotorsports I have compounds on our tow pig and it helped a whole lot with efficiency and easy of power. The turbo lag is still there but when pulling livestock that lag is very useful. The main reason I was wanting to do a twin charged on my toy rig was because of that lag. Figuring out a way to have power off idle all the way through to red line has been my end goal.
I've never heard of bending the rotors though, but of course I don't have a lot of experience with supers.
I will say that I'm only looking for around 500 ponies but I want that 500 to be ridiculously efficient and my aim is around mid 20s for mpg.
I've built so far to carry 100 gallons and as much of the rig to be mechanical as possible. There are a few areas I haven't gotten far enough to figure out yet, like cruise control and gear security, and the biggest concern is tire fitment. I want to run 40s+ but range of operation has serious limits unless I do careless or crazy... wheel spacers or figuring out how to make the axle/housing just a little wider...
In any case, thankyou for your content, it's been very helpful.
Nice, I used to have a rig like that that I hauled with. Compounds, p-pumped 24v, 10 speed transmission. I eventually just got a semi. I used a Dakota digital cruise control. It worked well. I have a lot of pictures of my ten speed swap, maybe I’ll make a video out of it sometime. I ran 17.5 commercial tires and rims on it, because the 10 ply truck tires were only lasting 15k. It was a tech from Whipple that warned me about bending the rotors.
@@irionmotorsports bro.... I was going to do an Eaton 10 speed, the only reason I didn't was because of the down shifting issue... straight cut gears don't like to shift down if the truck is speeding up ( down hill slope ) that's why I went with the nv5600 and a gear vendors box to have the ability to split the gears...
As for the ppump 24v, I ha e strongly considered it on my daily driver because I have had a random dead pedal for years and can't seem to figure out why... changed the tpps a half a dozen times, the lift pump and injection pump, put in a boost fooler, changed the engine harness, it's just so random and no clue what causes it. Even paid 3 different shops to fix it and all 3 only changed the tpps.... which didn't fix it.
Ironically, collecting the parts to do the swap is how I ended up with the 12v that's is going in my toy rig.
This is super helpful ND great job by the way. I have been planning to build a 4cyl diesel to stuff in a side by side. Plans are nearly the same with supercharger into turbo. I planned to have a secondary air intake with one way valve just in case the turbo pulled more. I like the way you did this.
Much love man planning a blower for my little 3 pot 😂
Nice! Good luck man. 👍
I love what you have done.will take some of your ideas into my project.a diesel powered 190e mercedes
Awesome! That's why I do these videos.
Hey mate, this is awesome info! Im from aus and im planning on twin charging my 3L 4jj1 dmax. Been really hard to find info on twin charging a diesel as it seems all anyone wants is peak power and dont care about response. About to binge watch all your vids and share them to all my mates because this is just stupid cool!
Is there a reason to not just use a magnet clutch?
Seems simpler and more efficient, plus eliminates the horrible noise.
There’s a few reasons. I haven’t seen a clutch for a whipple, but if they make them I wouldn’t have space. I only have about a 1/4” to spare. It’s way more complicated, and there’s more things to go wrong. You don’t just need a clutch, but also the sensors and switches to run it. The biggest reason though is it doesn’t in any way solve my problem. You still have to have a bypass valve otherwise your engine would have zero airflow when the clutch is open. I try to build things as simple as possible with the least number of moving parts. This is especially important when it comes to off road racing. This is a simple check valve that doesn’t rely on any sensors, switches, vacuum lines, diaphragms, or linkages.
Hey man I love it! I’m getting ready to put a supercharger on my cummins also with my S475! What type of bypass valve was that? I’m
Looking at using a boost actuated valve for mine possible
I used a 3” check valve from PD Blowers. www.pdblowers.com/product/3-inline-check-valve/
Hey hopefully you’re still answering questions. This is a yr old now lol.
So have you considered a blow off valve at the intake to keep your small pulley on the sc? It would be pretty easy to set it to 5 lbs below 1000 rpm and 40 lbs above that. Throttle response should be really crisp and it will idle nicely.
Idk 🤷♂️ maybe
Anyhow thanks.
I haven’t considered doing that. When I’m fabricating I try to keep things a simple as possible. I don’t see how you would gain anything from adding that a blowoff valve and it’s one more thing to go wrong. I could just run the small pulley without any of that complication, it’s just not really necessary. I have instant throttle response, the turbo spools quick, and I don’t want any more power. I’d just break more stuff. There’s lots of ways to twincharge a diesel and just about anything you do is going to be way better than a single or even compounds. If you’ve got the space, I’d say go for it and see if it makes a difference.
@@aubreyirion that makes sense. Really enjoyed the video. It’s an idea I’ve tossed around for a while and running across your video was a real helpful confirmation. Thanks.
why dont you put a plumbers 90degree plastic tube they make many different sizes and wont colapse
Well, that would work in a pinch, but there's a few issues. It wouldn't be quite the right size because they only come in one inch increments and the elbows are larger than the pipe. For example a 4" pvc pipe has an OD of around 4.5 and an elbow has an flange OD of around 5". That means I would have to use a 3" pvc elbow which would mean the passageway would go from 4" to 3" to 4" and then be necked down to the turbo inlet size. Another issue is the air is hot coming from the SC and pvc tends to break down over time with repeated heating and cooling cycles and exposure to uv. The biggest issue though would be finding a way to mount my bypass valve to it.