Semi Free Floating Front Rotor Disk Button Cleaning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2018
- In this tutorial I show you the tools and steps necessary to free up your frozen front disk brake rotor buttons.
If you’re experiencing a feeling of warpage or uneven disk wear when you apply front braking it may not be due to uneven pads or defective/warped front rotors, it may be caused by gummed-up disk buttons not allowing the necessary free play or side to movement of the actual disk portion your brake pads come into contact with. Sometimes a simple cleaning can fix the problem.
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Glad you all are enjoying my DIY content. If you need technical help and need a response from me, I kindly ask that you please subscribe first. My time and knowledge for your subscription sounds like a fair deal. Thanks - The Chemist
Yo dude! The problem you described i totally had on my CBR 1000RR. So much i almost lost control one time when braking hard. I followed your cleaning process step by step, and man the bike works totally different now in braking WOW so smooth!! Thanks for the video and the good guidance! Big props!
Greetings from Sweden
bapagrappa - much thanks for the props bro, glad my Video helped you out. I have many more DIYs and tech tips on how to maintain or mod. If ya havent done so already subscribe and hit that bell, Im working on some cool mods as we speak that can be applied to any bike.
The best method I’ve seen. Makes complete sense to compress that spring washer and “unload” the button before trying to rotate and clean it. 👍
Exactly!...
Sir, I cannot thank you enough. I have the exact same rotors on my R1. Thought I needed new discs as braking was not nice at all. I copied your video, and problem solved. You have saved me over £100. Many thanks.
Awesome brother, glad this video could help you out. Just an fyi you may want to clean the buttons about every 6 months or so. These are good rotors but i found that the buttons get a fair amount of buildup fast causing that wobbly feeling when breaking. Even more so depending on the pad material your using..
@@TheChemistDIY I will certainly clean them regularly from now on. Thanks again!
Great video - I now know what I am going to be up to this weekend before my next ride! Thanks for taking the time to educate us!
Thanks for the positive feedback brother. Yeah if your feeling a little wabble when applying the front brakes this may be your issue.. if it is, and this fixes it, come back and let us know.. enjoy your ride, and ride safe brother..
Awesome vid man, very informative. I've done this routine twice with break cleaner and still cant spin them freely. Got a little uneven breaking which is really noticeable at low speeds and they scream when stopping abruptly. I noticed one of my calipers have uneven pistons, gonna purify them real good, hope that will solve the annoyances I am experiencing. The problem was much worse though, to the point of heavy vibrations from the front while driving. This diy definitely helped a lot.
Thank you for sharing your video I had no idea that floating rotors needed to be serviced mine are probably seized..
Great tip @James Moreno. Classy and very informative Ty! Just an small tip from personal experience. Take that simple green and dump it down the drain. Eventually that stuff will oxidize the metals youre spraying it on. Especially aluminum. Metals will turn white. Simple Green contains Sodium Citrate (Trisodium Citrate),which is 3 different types of salts from citric acids. It starts out as a white crystal powder before mixed with other ingredients that form the simple green solution. No matter how much or what you use to rinse. That super fine salt will embed in the grains of metal and eventually show. I switched to Purple Power years ago. Way more friendly to metals as it doesnt contain any citric acids. Its main ingredient is Butoxy-ethanol,which is all organic a great all around cleaner/de greaser in the garage or in the house.
What do you think organic means in this context
In my experience aluminium corrodes by itself, turn into white powdery surfaces.. Use whatever, and a real good wash afterwards..
I had the same experience as you with Simple Green. Not great for metals, but ok for cleaning linoleum and other stuff. I learned the hard way on some expensive tooling I was trying to clean with Simple Green using an ultrasonic cleaner.
Just use alcohol 😁👍
KEROSENE!
What about to use kerosene or Brake cleaner insted of 'Simple Green' or 'Purple Power'?
my harley was braking strange as you described , this worked great one suggestion spray lube called dry lube its not oil based and works great
scott spaulding. Good info, ill be sure to look into that lube, i just cleaned min yesterday agian, i generally do this about every 6 months but really you can tell when it needs it, that wobble feeling when applying the brakes is nerve racking especially when coming into a turn.. just throws off your focus.
Thanks man -- this is awesome! Appreciate it!!
Buen video amigo ,gracias me ha sido muy util !!!
Excellent job and good explanation
Thanks brother, appreciate the compliment and comment.
excellent video - thank you for sharing
Great video, props!
Thanks for this bro I was like damn I got new rotors and thought they were bad after my first brake job
Lol, dont worry bro, I thought the same thing the first time around. Coming from OEM I had no clue about maintaining the rotors because you never had to. Once they wear in you will have to do this less as the freeplay in each button increases.
My front brakes squeak similar to a clown nose. Omg the fork was replaced and the alignment and these are off a 98 Honda CBR 600F3. Thank you will try this cleaned up two buttons already I should wash the whole motorcycle first and then do this method with a brush.
Thanks so much!!!!! That solve the shadder on a Ducati Multistrada 1200S 2014, really thanks!!
Hey Fernando, glade I could help you out. Greatly appreciate you coming back posting your success comment for the MC community. It's very important we do so as we have doubters out there who have never experienced this issue first hand but want to comment below that this fix doesn't work... Again thanks so much and safe riding to you.
Wow, Learn something every day!
Awesome. Just know that not all rotors will need this cleaning, some cant even be done.. but you definitely know when your rotors need to be clean..
good job man thanks a lot
Any Time Ahmed.. lock me in.. more to come
Thanks! Missed the socket and tooth brush trick
I'm gonna do this when I get home! Thank you!
Mega vdo i just spend 1k on rotors wish i had if seen this before lol 😂
Good job
Thank you!
Any time, please come back and let us know if it worked for you, Thanks.
I cleaned my 05 triumph sprint with grease remover all over and have recently and now I can almost too easily shift the disc from side to side and back and forth. Is this normal on a 1050 triumph Sprint, liking your vid on cleaning. Please reply asap as am worried that they may busy up on me
Are these the original brake rotors or aftermarket? Overtime the spring washer which puts tension on the rotor are going to wear out., Especially aftermarket of cheaper quality. This happened to my Arashi set as well but not with my original Suzuki rotors. When the spring washers wear out you will get some free play or Even rattling this never affected by breaking performance but it was just annoying to hear the rattle sound every time I hit a bump. Some performance motors especially in race applications are like this from the get-go If it bothers you go ahead and swap them out.
hello james a question do you know if on ebay they sell the rotor buttons you could leave me a link or something but that is specific to ebay in advance michas thank you friend!
Hit up this company in the UK and see if they make and sell for your application.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-floating-front-brake-disc-Bobbins-Circlip-sets-Blackshadow-Uk-/292417199421
GRINAGE!! First time I've heard that one. Thanks for video.
Yes, cleaning the bobbins make a huge difference if when your applying front break and you feel a feeling of a warp disk. Before changing out the rotors give this a try.. this is especially tru with new rotors that have tight clearance and have not been broken in. That break dust buildup can cause many issues, this is just one..
@james Moreno. I think he is talking about the use of word “grinage”.
ya lo hice james pero vienen los subtitulos en ingles solamente....gracias
Al utilizar el navegador web de Google, abra mi video, cuando se abra asegúrese de que NO haya una línea roja debajo del CC, si lo hay, apáguelo y luego actualice la página. Ahora mueva el cursor del mouse sobre CC y haga clic derecho dos veces muy rápido. Aparecerá un cuadro emergente junto a CC, busca "traducir a" (tercero desde abajo) y haz clic en él. Aparecerá una ventana emergente en la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla que dice traducida. Haga clic en las opciones y luego cambie el idioma. Cambie el idioma de la página a "inglés" y traduzca a "español" y luego haga clic en el botón azul "traducir". Ahora haz clic en el CC y los subtítulos deberían leerse en español. Funciona porque acabo de hacerlo y estoy viendo los subtítulos en español en mi pantalla y todos los comentarios.
Im not the best far feom it, when you.tighten the bolts, i have tried it just compresses and nothing moves, obviouslyey im missing something, any help
What up bro.. first let me ask what rotor your performing this on and do you know if it is a cylindrical bobbin?
Some rotor's such as EBC use a square peg system where the pin can't be spun. So it's important you know what type of rotor you have.
second, on the inside facing bobbin (rim sid) can you see the spring washers and if so do they compress giving free play of the pin?
From my experience, only a handful of rotor's will allow you to do this.. my OEM Suzuki rotors for instance has never had the need and worked flawlessly till the end of their life.
My floating discs have covered only 13000 miles but are clanking through the bars. It's it possible to fit new floating rivets?
So way back when I made this video I did find a YT video where a guy had replaced the buttons with a full floating kit.. But a full floating kit is a track thing and also has more chatter and clanking then you have now. That said you probably wont find anything out there that wont produce a chatter sound... if you do, well come back and let us know..
I have the opposite problem, my bike oem disc buttons are very loose and making some noise driving slow on irregular pavement!
The disc moves a bit back and forward when i push it with my hand.
Is this normal?
Well some race bike have full floating disks that sound like this.. If I had to compare it to something I would say it sounds like a tambourine (musical instrument)..
What this is, is that the spring washers which use to provide tension on the back side of the rotors are now warn out.. normal.. no.. ok to ride on.. yes, but hella annoying as the bike sounds like something is rattling every time you hit a bump..
I just swapped out mine last week after 4 years of ride time. I was just tired of the sound and wanted a quiet ride.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for the reply!
Well it looks like im driving a tambourine bike🤣.
I'll consider to change the buttons as my disc seems ok.
Thanks
Brake parts cleaner on the calipers can damage the rubber seals of the pistons
I dont think so.Whenever I'm cleaning calipers or rotors always using brake parts cleaner and never had a problem.
@@nanaarabuli684 Brake parts cleaner is a strong solvent. It will degrade the nitrile seals of your pistons if they are exposed to it.
Clean your calipers with soap or brake fluid.
Parts cleaner is meant to dissolve sticky deposits on brake pads or metals, that's all you should use it for.
@@nanaarabuli684 It absolutely damages nitrile/rubber caliper seals. Read the can -or- Google it
Opp.. Its all stuck on my both rotor. Not moving a bit. Thank for the info.
Because it is NOT supposed to move.
Fyi - Some rotors like EBC have square-slotted bobbins and this method should not be performed or you will damage them.
I don't want you to damage anything. Just make sure yours arnt this kind and you should be good with cleaning. Come back and let us know how this worked for you.
my floating rotors barely move from its center carrier, does it mean the spring washers are too tight? because I dont think they're dirty since they are just 1 week old.
I can really feel handle bar shaking during breaking
What up brother, the answer to this question is dependent on the rotor brand you have. EBC for example has a rotor that has square drive button pins that cannot spin like I have shown in the video. Performing this procedure on them will not work and cause damage to the rotor. You can see the information on EBC style rotor and buttons here: th-cam.com/video/Wy9CJdXxZig/w-d-xo.html .
IF you have new rotors that are not square slotted like EBC then they are going to be stiff (not easy to spin) as the tension springs are new and need time to break in. It took about 6 months of riding for mine to break in before I was able to spin the buttons with some ease by finger and the wobble sensation to be gone. That said when they got dirty or buildup occured between the contact points of the button pin and rotor blade this would cause an intense wobble sensation when applying even the slightest front brake pressure. This happens more frequently when riding in rain or wet conditions as all that road grim and brake dust builds up, like tartar on your teeth, hardened causing contact when it shouldn't.
My suggestion to you is exercise and clean the buttons like I have shown (if they are not the square pin type) and afterwords spray the button PINS with some dry lube, i'll provide the link to the dry lube I use down below.
If you didn't know dry lube is not like liquid lubricant, say like WD40, it will not run or fling off when the rotor spins, it will dry in seconds after spraying and leave a white film (that's the lubricant). That said you should always clean the rotor with some brake clean after words to insure nothing has mistakenly gotten on the surface ( I can't stress the importance of this process enough). Do this once a week until the sensation is gone. If the rotors arn't a manufacture defect then this should help with the break in period.
Remember that were talking about MM's of clearance between the button pin and the rotor blade holes. Its going to take some time for parts to wear and grove before a little more clearance is given up. If the spring is pressing so tight that is causes the pin to offset and come in contact with the two halves of the hole it sits in, then your going to get chatter. That's why you need to exercise the tension spring and soften its hold.
amzn.to/2BxDHyE
Hope that helps you out and don't forget to like and subscribe
@@TheChemistDIY wow great explanation mate.
mine have round bobbins, so you think it's normal for my rotors to cause chatter since they're fairly new and the spring washers arent broken in?
I'll try to exercise your cleaning method once a week and see if it eases up the shaking. as for the break in time I guess I have to wait for the next few weeks or maybe months :D
by the way, I've never used dry lube before, is it the same thing as the white lithium grease? because I have a can of that and that would be great if they are the same :P
thanks mate, cheers.
@@p1t3n6 Yes I believe this is going to be your issue, it was in my case, not sure why this happens to some and not other though. Perhaps it was because I went with a cheap aftermarket product and not a quantity MORE EXPENSIVE name brand. I have yet to see any TH-cam videos on this issue happening with say EBC or Galfer wave rotor products but who's to say it doesn't.
Some wave rotors if you didn't know need to be offset from the opposite side. Meaning the wave patterns CAN NOT be aligned if your looking at them from one side dead on. Dave Moss explains more details on that hear: th-cam.com/video/BemshLarPl8/w-d-xo.html . If they do then that information should be explained with the installation directions that came with your rotors.
Just to give you an update on my rotors, the buttons are so loose now that they rattle. Is this a bad thing, no not really as some track or race bike generally have this setup from the get go. It's not really comone on street bikes because people tend to get annoyed with anything that rattles. but the issue of vibration is something I no longer experience until after the rainy season. Rode grim, water, and brake dust are no joke, If you've ever done a brake job this stuff is hard to get off your caliper pistons and takes some work! th-cam.com/video/ywqXgvZe2ek/w-d-xo.html
As for using grease, even white lithium, I don't suggest. Anything that is going to fling off when wheel reaches a high revolution is going to be a NO NO, no matter even if your just coating the surface and not globbing it on. if that stuff gets on the rotor or pads you are NOT going to stop. Also it would be hard to get the grease into this small crack. The spray on DRY LUBE is much more easier to work with and dries instantly, I believe it's silicone based. You can see me use that stuff here: th-cam.com/video/nm38_FlbdHQ/w-d-xo.html . It doesn't take much, in fact less is better when applying it to this area. Lubricants are not your best friend when around brakes. #just saying .. lol.
@@TheChemistDIY I tried your cleaning method just today and I wiggled the bobbins a lot while spraying them with brake part cleaner, the result was amazing! the braking was so much better and smoother. the shaking almost gone completely, I still could feel it just a little though, I'll just repeat the process in a few days.
thank you so much mate!!
Awesome brother, glad to hear it worked for you. There are quite a few people that belive this doesnt work as you can read in some if of the comments section. I say to them, until you have experianced this issue and tried the procedure in this video you will never understand. Thanks for coming back sharing!
KEROSENE!
What about to use kerosene insted of 'Simple Green' or 'Purple Power'?
You can use whatever cleaning solvent you so desire. Just be mindful of what falls on to your rims. It could eat the paint..
Mine don’t spin at all. Also getting some handlebars vibration as well. Could this be my issue?😮💨😮💨
Some button spring tensions are different and thus the buttons may not move so easily, so you cant base it soley off button movement, If you have EBC rotors then this cannot be done. Whats a sure sign is the increasing vibration when applying front break. It starts off as .. damn do I feel a vibration in the front wheel when applying front break... to something like.. "holy shit there's definitely something wrong with these breaks or rotors".. You know your bike.. Give the cleanig a try and come back to let us know if it worked for you.. Its a 25-30 minute job and when finished you'll instantly know if that was the problem after your first ride.
@@TheChemistDIY I’m thinking about replaying the rotors for the galfer ones. I still have my oem ones and when I spin the wheel they seem warped as it spin.
Bro is that arashi rotors? How are they performing and how many miles you have been using them?
I got over 7,200 miles on these rotors since the making of my first review. Bang for the buck factor you cant go wrong. If youve never played with simi free floating rotors then theres going to be an adjustment period as these take a little more care then OEM, especially in the more colder, wet seasons. The buttons or bobbin cleaning is the only drawback because if your not on your PM then you feel the buildup or stuck buttons when applying front brakes (wobble). Thats nerve wracking if youve never experienced as its comparable to a small tank slapper feeling. Material wise i dont have any complaints, their holding up well thus far.
@@TheChemistDIY i have this on my 916 but i dont know why they become hot (but you can still touch them) when i ride like for 10km. My front wheels doest rotate well freely. It is like grabbing slightly on some point of the rotors. Maybe i have to break it in further.
@@dennisbuenas2976 make sure they sent tou the correct rotor. When i fist ordered these they sent me ones from a GSXR 1000 of the same year. These didnt fit as the 1000 rotor is slightly larger in diameter and thicker causing the pads to rub. You should be able to spin the wheel freely after installation.
@@dennisbuenas2976 Did you ever figure it out? Sounds like you did not install the wheel correctly...
Have you ever wondered how we managed (and cars manage) with solid rotors and had no problems ? The buttons aren’t there for alignment, they are there to allow thermal expansion of modern, lightweight, large diameter rotors. If people have pulsing issues it isn’t anything to do with the buttons. By spinning those buttons you’re making the discs looser and therefore less optimal. Wavy rotors do pulse a bit, but any other pulsing is either warped/scalloped rotors or pad material unevenly distributed on the rotors.
It always amazes me how reluctant people are to accept truth. Truth - When you get your breaks serviced, the most common practice aside from swapping out the pads is to check, inspect, clean and lubricate the exterior surface of the piston. Truth - due to the combination of heat, water, and deposits the motion of a caliper piston and related components can be affected up to the point of seizer (aka Frozen piston, slids and bolts).. If water/heat/ and break dust can freez the movment of a HYDRAULIC system why is it so hard to believe that it wont affect the even distrobution of movement (free play) on the floating rotor when breaking. I've said it before... this wont be understood until it happens to you/ you perform this cleaning procedure and then the light bulb turns on.. I guess it does work.. lol.
It has nothing to do with warping/scolloped or the shape of the rotor.. it has everything to do with buildup fowling up the freeplay movement... plain and simple
@@TheChemistDIY for sure, 9 out of 10 times this dirt/dust will 'freeze the disc out of alignment creating the 'unknowing' belief the disc is warped. just came across it on my 750 and thought the pads were worn yet the second i saw one disc moving freely and the other stuck plus the watching of u and others explaining it all became clear as the nose on ones face an obvious problem .a part made to move not moving. cheers for your efforts.
This method does not work on EBC rotors with the SD System. Ask me how I know. 600 dollar mistake
Ouch.. !
mine wont spin by hand only with screw... im driving kawasaki z750
Spinning by hand finger tips may very to some degree, this is dependent on the amount of force the spring washer on the back side is placing on the button, some are stiffer than others. Over time and use these will lessen up due to wear. During the first few months you may feel a small wobble when applying the front breaks until you pass the braeak in period, but be sure to keep cleaning them and turning those buttons so you dont confuse break in for dirty. After a few thousand miles my disk now moves by hand with no issues..
the thing that confuses me is that my bike have 40k km,its not new
@@nikolakostadinovic2763 I have a couple of questions, are you sure u have/are these simi free floating rotors? The difference between the two is the diameter of the inner shaft of the button, free floating diameter will be smaller giving you that play, non free floating will give you a larger diameter closing that wiggle room gap. You have 40k miles on these rotors and still no play?
i have similar rotors like yours... km not miles but whatever it doesnt make any difernce...
hermano lo podras subtitular en español?
No hay problema, pruébalo ahora amigo mío. No te olvides de me gusta y suscríbete.
Siempre puede hacer clic en CC en la esquina inferior izquierda de la pantalla, luego hacer clic en el piñón al lado y hacer clic en los subtitulos y elegir su idioma
25 dislike is Break shop owner
Wow I wont be doing this to my discs. Guys if you have done this already you need to get new ones. The buttons are there to hold the discs, there should be no movement side to side. Also this will cause movement up and down which is very bad.
Please do your homework on the different types of breaking systems before giving advice.. let me help you out brother.. heres a quick link for ya.. enjoy
th-cam.com/video/6D9JkMU0nLM/w-d-xo.html
I think you’re thinking about the bolts holding the rotor to the wheel.
Buddy I did enough homework at racing school🤣 but I still wouldn't say I'm an expert. If your trying to make these fully floating then the bobbins need to be titanium you dont just spin them up with a drill and you wouldn't want to do that on those cheap discs you have. I have used full floating on rainy days and trust me you wouldn't want them for road use as they are more expensive they make your bike sound like it is broken and you need to replace them all the time.
@@edstastephenson9386 He's not trying to make them full floating rotors, he was cleaning the buttons to allow flex as they were designed to do. The title of his vid says it all. This method works sometimes if your rotor isn't warped to take vibrations out of the front braking system. Only thin I would do differently would use brake cleaner instead of simple green. Saw another TH-cam where a guy used WD40... I wouldt put any kind of lubricant near my discs
@@davidspinazzola5846 maybe I should just explain what will happen. You spin the bobbins to clean it but your actualy grinding the metal away making a bigger gap so then they will start clanking just like fully floating ones and the gap will get bigger faster because the metal is soft. Before long you will be wanting to replace them because your to embarrassed to go down the road with the noise and worried how much longer they will hold together. People don't learn until it happens to them but just remember when it all goes wrong there was that one twat in the youtube comments that warned you not to do it.✌
What page of the service manual is this in? Complete BS, the floating part of the brakes comes from the caliper, the bobbins are for thermal expansion not to float the disc.
LOL. WHEN THEY SEIZE YOULL KNOW ABOUT IT
This comment is BS.... This works as long as your rotor isn't warped. It's not in the service manual
@@davidspinazzola5846 No, this video is BS.
Why do you think rivets are being used to separate the outer from the inner part of the discs?
If they were supposed to be flexible, don't you think some lubricated attachment (like small bearings) or more flexible and servicable attachment would have been chosen by the engineers? Show me any rivets anywhere that are made to be serviced. That's what bolts and bearings are for.
The main purpose of the rivets is to separate the two parts so the outer steel ring can expand under heat (when braking hard and often) without transferring heat to the inner aluminium ring (which expands more under heat, but is used to reduce unsprung mass of the disc). That's it.
Your brake calipers and pads are what align with the disc. The disc is supposed to be perfectly straight and not moving much under pressure.
Weakening the springs that help hold the rivets tight, will have the opposite effect. Especially if you're using power tools like in this video. This is a useless procedure in the best case, a deadly one in the worst.
@@sv650nyc7 I completely understand their purpose and completely disagree with spinning them with a power tool but when they bind you'll feel it through the calipers. I used a screwdriver to gently wiggle each of them while saturating them with brake cleaner and they like new. I don't have warped rotors and have rock solid smooth braking now
I completely understand your concerns with working with power tools but there is such a thing called the the mechanics touch where you work off of feeling. The same method used when tightening bolts and you know you're about to over torque and stopp just before that point. If you haven't gotten to that point when working on vehicles, then yes I suggest using another form of method to clean.
The fact of the matter is this procedure does work in reducing the binding feeling when the buttons are fouled with brake dust and debris.
Those that comment that it doesn't work have never experienced this issue and are getting there knowledge from others that claim the same..
Did I ever experience this with my OEM rotors, No.. why.. couldn't tell you.. just a better quality part maybe, who knows..
Those buttons doesn't need to be cleaned. It is a stupid think to do. You can check your motorcycle service or owner manual and you will not read anywhere something like that.
Of course you wouldnt find this in the owners manual, these are aftermarket.. lol. Duh!
Please rethink your comments before trying to coming at me, I've been working on bikes for years.
@@TheChemistDIY there are semifloating brake disks OEM and still nothing about this procedure in the manual. Becouse it is a mith. I am with motorcycle over 10 years and it is a myth. Learn how those brake disks work and you will understund why.
@@fiziflash until you've owned a pair and had the issue of dirty bobbins you wont understand.
@@TheChemistDIY i have motorcycles with bobins since 2014 ;)
@@fiziflash Youre a clown if youre a motorcyclist of 10 yrs and had bobbins since '14 and not know that this is a legit personal preference maintenance routine. I have been riding since 1975,been building custom motorcycles since 1988. You will never read this in any owners manual even if the bike does come with semi floating rotors. A good rider/owner would know their bike and know what needs serviced and approx. when and you learn how to service through trial and error. Dealership techs will not offer this routine because its not factory recommended. At the same time,just because factory dont recommend it,doesnt mean its a bad idea. A lot of time the factory engineers get input from the bike owners and engineers upgrade their designs and offer update service bulletins. Ever been to a motorcycle rally and the dealerships have reps out n about? That's called Marketing and RnD (Research and Development)...
Using power tools on a rivet... Oh my...
Dude, please take this video offline. What you're demonstrating is useless in the best case and downright dangerous in the worst case.
People, leave your rivets alone! If you feel your brake disc wobbling, service your brake calipers instead or get new brake discs. The rivets are not supposed to have flex. They will however if you damage them like in this procedure.
Agreed, this is so wrong. I used to be a service tech at a motorcycle shop and we never ever did this....smh
Oh please, not everyone has endless amounts of money to just throw at bikes, if it fixes it then good! If it doest or you break it then you replace the rotor, but at least you tried... remember it's already a fukced rotor if your doing this...
@@s.in.bagger9933 you would never do this because you would rather change the whole rotor no fucks given cause it's the customer who's paying for it lol.
Sorry but you got it all wrong floating rotor discs should not be messed with like that due to the fact those little discs are for heat expansion and nothing else. The heat from heavy braking has too disperse evenly reduce disc warp.
I don't disagree with you on the functionality of how heat expansion works with regards to semi-free floating rotors.
But Here is what you're missing, the design is intended to work with two SMOOTH surfaces.. and it does that just fine when cold.. why.. because the two SMOOTH surfaces are clean and haven't come in contact with each other just yet.. aka heat expansion hasn't occurred and no brake dust buildup (New).
now what happens when we place a small rock or uneven the surface inbetween those two tiny contact points.. will call this harden break dust and dirt build up.... and the two surfaces now come in contact with each other under heat expansion. The surface is no longer even.. kicking the floating disk off at an angle when it mates with the button at the given rotational interval... This creates an angling of the rotor thus creating a wabbling effect... now times this by 9 and 16.. the number of buttons on 1 and or two rotors..
Want to try this theroy at home. Here you go..
Take two small flat pieces of wood and stack them on top of each other, they stack just nicely right. Now place a marble in between those two stack pieces of wood. Does the top piece of wood lay flat or does it now lean at an angle.. remember, brake dust, dirt, oil and water when combined have the ability to seize a caliper piston. Why would you think it would be any different sitting in between those two small spaces and not cause an issue... Really think about that.
First thing your talking out of your arse the discs move just like the caliper moves the chatter your getting more than likley you havent set up the brake pads up in the calipers correctly or just need cleaning these disc rotors dont need touching and they dont seize they just expand and retract for heat purposes
@@OLIVERHARDY100 buddy you need to do more research before you pop your mouth off. even moto gp teams clean the bobbins the same way.
I've done my research and I ain't your buddy end of.
@@OLIVERHARDY100 clearly not but okay buddy 👌 👍