How to remove a Subaru EJ25 Engine (POV Walkthrough)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Need to pull the engine out of your WRX/ STI or other Turbocharged Subaru? we've got you covered with an in-depth Point-of-View walk through to show you an efficient way that doesn't have you going back and forth taking more time than you need. I tried to make this as streamlined as I could so you can save time and money and get on to making the upgrades or repairs you need to on your Subaru.
This is a detailed FPV walkthrough of the engine removal process, so you can see everything as it happens. We also provide some tips and advice throughout the video, so that when you decide to remove the engine from your Subaru WRX, STI, Forester or Legacy, you'll be able to do it correctly the first time!
As always, I hope you guys enjoy my video, Like and subscribe to keep up to date on more future videos where we'll cover other important aspects of Subaru ownership and performance upgrades and builds!
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Aye bro if your building this engine please do a full step by step walkthrough because everyone skips stuff and moves too fast but I want to learn how to build ej ❤
We have a few customer cars in the works, so I will definitely have related content coming out. Will do my best to get time with them to cover stuff 👌
FIRST
Let's go, boii 🙊
best ej removal video on youtube, long live the worm gear clamps
Nice!!! Awesome tips and detailed information. Pretty cool 😎😎😎😎 where the quesadillas at tho matt 🌮🌮 👀👀 🤣🤣. Blessings to you guys!
Tanner eats all the quesadillas 😭 thanks man, you as well 🙏
Another awesome video, brother! Informative as always.
Whoever put all of those worm clamps on there is the devil.
Thanks, man. They definitely were not thinking about having to take them off. 🤣
Hey,
My son and I are currently pulling a NA 2.5EJ and this was a great resource. I can see I’m doing three things wrong. Haven’t jacked the trans, released the clutch and need to probably take the intake off as well.
Thanks for the commentary / text down the bottom and taking the time to edit and explain certain key little bit that may be a hassle.
I would be keen to see some “rebuild” videos in the future. Protip for #TH-cam always make sure your audio is good as that’s one of the main reasons people will click away from your video.
Thanks again. Best of luck with the channel. I’ll be back for sure.
Thank you 😊 glad I could help. I'm in a bit of a hiatus right now due to starting a new job, but hope to get back to videos here soon. Appreciate you 🙏
jubilee clips usually can be loosened and tightened with a 7mm socket, or 8mm if japanese market ones.
Super helpful!! Thanks for posting this video.
Yea, that “u” brace/sub frame brace gets in the way of everything!!
I also have a GD and watching this video (along with pictures and bolts punched through cardboard) really makes pulling the engine not that bad 🤷🏽♂️
Thanks again Mat! 🥰
Comment flew under the radar, yes those u braces are no Bueno 😆 Thanks man! 👌
Everyones got there own tricks here and there for me if im pulling a motor out I'll need a vehicle lift cus im short lol. Great video matt its just packed with information👍🏼
Yeah, I seriously need my own set of quickjack's at least. Probably will try to pick a set up here soon, but I do miss working in a shop with a 2 post. Thank you, Omi 🙏
Very nice walk through good job!
Thanks man 🙏
always very informative 2nd btw Happy holidays Matt
Thanks my guy! Happy holidays! 😊 👌
I literally was recommended this video and kept thinking, "why do you look so damn familiar".... ::: sees Tanners in the shot at 10:10 ::: ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahaha nice nice! 👌 you have found my secret channel 🤣
Great job! Very informative.
Thanks bro 👌
Pov makes it easy to follow and learn from
Glad it helps, I'll try and do this more often in future how-to's 👌
Hell yeah. Way to go Mateiuss .. what is that Sleeve that goes onto the trans In order to remove the clutch fork ? The one you had to use the m6x1.0 bolt to get it out. I need that for my Spec B 7 speed Swap for my Legacy GT . I dont. think I have one for mine .
Thanks man 🙏
The sleeve is called a clutch release bearing shaft per subaru.
Part number should be 30532AA020 if they're the same as sti.
Loving all the vids man🤙🏼 One thing I’m noticing and it might just be my tv but when you add the tips and tricks around the screen frame it’s getting like half cut off. Just wanted to give you a heads up man keep up the vids I’m loving it🙏🏻
Ooo interesting. Hadn't noticed that on mobile, but they are a little further down and smaller than normal. I'll start leaving a little more room around them to make sure they show up properly on all platforms. Thanks for letting me know 👌
Bro there’s a guy at the shop I work at that swears worm gear clamps are so much better than any oem clamps. I keep telling him they totally suck but he swears by them. Some people are crazy hahah. I totally prefer the compression clamps
The debate will go forever between people on the subject. There are die-hard worm gear clamp guys. Biggest issue with people using compression or constant tension clamps is cheaping out and getting poorly made ones that don't work correctly, just like getting a 100 piece kit of worm gears for 8 dollars and thinking they're worth a damn. 🤣
Ayy bro i miss the content man
Just an FYI, but probably not relevant to your own vehicles - I've run IAT sensor in OEM STi and ETS TMIC's.
The OEM STi significantly outperformed the ETS, with the ETS consistently running approx 40degrees hotter and consistently getting hotter during a pull, then taking significantly longer to remove the associated heatsoak. I contacted ETS with the information and they were disinterested. This was when my car was making ~490whp on E85 with a Blouch Dom 1.5XTR
My guess is that the advertised "lower pressure drop" also means that the charged air doesn't have time to get cooled, and the significantly increased mass is likely why it has a hard time removing the heat post-pull.
I still supported ETS with a 4" FMIC which performs nicely at 700whp/35psi w/ a Garrett G30-900.
I've heard that about the top mounts not performing too well, that's some awesome reasoning as to what may be the issue. I see a lot of problems with aftermarket top mounts not having proper ducting to accompany their design as well. Great numbers made on both the Blouch and the Garrett. Used to run a 1.5xtr in the Outback, but the 5eat robbed a decent amount of power. Was a great turbo while I had it. Looking to run a Garrett as well in the next iteration. 🤙
Hi! Cool tools unc le Matt!! 🤪♥️👻
Thanks Harry! 😊👌
You missed the part where you have to pry-curse-hammer-curse-pry the bellhousing from the engine.
🤣🤣 I put a little note in there during the time-lapse. Some "slight" persuasion may be involved. Some dowels really suck when they're stuck in there.
Great job. Good info.
Thanks man 🙏
Can u show up close where on the block you hooked the engine hoist
If you're on the discord, I can send you a pic when we have one hooked up, but it's the rear mounting bolt for the power steering pump, the rear mounting bolt for the ac bracket, and in back I use the outer bolt hole for the bracket I took of by the turbo, and one just behind the driver side tgv housing.
😂😂😂😂 man you crack me up. I’ll make sure to blow up my Subaru and then worm clamps on and bring it to you 😂😂 jk jk
Dude it was the worst.. the whole time I was questioning why i had to pick this car to make the video on 🤣 I'm pretty sure I suffer from carpal tunnel now 😭😭😂
Hey does that spring that’s attached to the clutch fork have to be put back on? I realized mine doesn’t have one so I’m seeing if it’s needed.
It is recommended to have a return spring on, supposed to take up the slack in the assembly and prevent it from riding against the bearing constantly. They are pretty cheap to get a new one, so I'd say don't stress it, but pick one up when you get a chance and throw it on.
@@MatlasDI I’ve watched so many removal videos and never even noticed that spring before 😅 thanks for the info man! Once I get my motor back in I’ll definitely install one.
@ryan vilas no problem dude 😊👌
I suppose you’ll change out the worm gear clamps?
I'm going to turn them all into a necklace and give them to the guy as a gift.. 🤣
Necklace & bracelet. Bling bling!!
@@bad_puppy_6740 definitely enough of them for a matching set 😂
are worm gear clamps not good? what would someone use instead?
@Telesko worm gear clamps can be a hassle to put on and take off, wear and can tear into or damage hoses, and if overtightened can easily strip and fail under pressure without easily being noticed until its too late. Most pcv connections don't require a lot of pressure. The barbs themselves work pretty well on their own in that regard, so a simple spring clamp can keep more even pressure and be faster to put on and take off. Engines also heat cycle a lot, and when the hoses expand, the clamp can put improper or uneven pressure on the hose. Constant tension clamps are probably the best choice for these types of connections as they will handle the heat cycling of an engine better to keep tension regardless of expansion of the hose, they make these in the simple spring clamp style as well as versions for t-bolt and other styles, but for the most part it also comes down to minimizing the amount of junctions and fittings used which all can be seen as potential failure points in the future. Sorry for the novel, lol.
Catching my second wind so i can get back to building my car i hope you are doing well the community seems to be in shambles right now just thought i would check in on you man 🤙🏽🪶💯
@SUAVE541 hey thanks man. Yeah, doing okay. Just been focusing on my job and finances, so youtube hasn't been in the picture. Appreciate you, man. hope you're doing well 🙏