Easy way to know if abs side of bearings are installed right is to make sure the magnetic side of bearing is installed towards the engine. Not all bearing have colored seals so use a small piece of metal to see what side of bearing is magnetic and then u will know what side is what
One of the best repair videos I have seen. Easy to follow and clear instructions, size of bolts given, good video shots and no excess verbiage. Good job.
A Pro would not use the nut of the extraction tool on the outer side when extracting the bearing due to the issue the "pro" ran into 'not getting the bearing all the way out' A Pro would not have nicked the hub. A Pro would would not "chip" away on a 'Snap Ring' AKA 'Circlip'. A Pro would not wear flip flips on the job due to the potential of falling heavy objects/tools.
Super helpful, I used this video and changed my bearing. I had just had my car fixed after a bad accident only to find out I still had to wait to drive it after I had it fixed. Now I'm road ready. Thanks man!
You did an excellent job. I had an FB mobile mechanic replaced my front bearings and he really messed it up by putting dents on my new wheel bearings.. He also replaced my lower balljoints and cv axles and he even installed the lower balljoints without the grease fittings and he called himself a mechanic. Yesterday I removed the front struts, balljoints and cv axles from my vehicle and the car now is running fine.
the one thing that soooooo many people do wrong in these videos is checking to make sure the bearing has enough seat pressure when the hub is installed. if your press does not have a guage then you will have to go by feel (which is an aquired, done a whole lot of them successfully - no come-backs, talent) with a torque wrench on the nut portion of a name brand hub puller (i have seen only one cheap one that had one and it was an Astro "MAC" copy) it should take around 210 inch pounds of torque to turn it. i have had success with as little as 65 inch pounds, but that vehicle did not pass state inspection for wheel play seven months later, i used a higher quality (priced also) bearing the second time around! thank you, it was a decent video!
Good job, buddy! Love to see young guys working on cars. When using that kit to draw in the bearing, if you put the long nut on the end that is drawn in to a hole or a receiving cup, it will be easier to hold onto the nut.
hey my friend. stumbled on your video while trying to find someone with a press to deal with my hubs on a different vehicle. Didn't know that tool was a thing. Thanks a TON!!
GOOD VIDEO !!! very informative. I have to do this for a 2016 Honda CRV. Should be a similar process. The only thing I do different when pressing in new bearings, I put them in the freezer overnight it makes them slide in so much easier. And old-timer showed me that years ago. Again thanks for the video !!!
2011 Honda CRV and 2017 Civic are the same way as the 2009 you did. I have a bearing/seal removal and installation kit of my own. It took too much time and energy especially the really tight ones. I bought a harbor freight $139 shop press last month. So much easier. I've found lots of uses for it. Great video, very helpful!
I was trying to find the right removal tool and press the other day at HF and I couldn't make a choice because they have a few bearing removal tools and presses and the employees that work at my store couldn't offer any help. Really don't want to pay a machine shop to press them.
@@graystripe393 I agree. Your press is one tool. Your press tools are another. I had already bought a ball joint press kit that adapted well to Honda bearing. (C-clamp style replacement ball joint kit). Worked very well with the cheaper HF bench press.
Awesome vid man! Helped a ton! Don't forget to folks doing the job to put the bearing in the right way so the abs sensor reads properly. Had to pull mine apart as it triggered the abs light on car. Not something you want to have to pull apart again! So recommend installing that bearing in the right direction!
Good video, concise. easy to follow ,no waffle job well done,. My only criticism and its a very small one is when you hammer the nut and bolt with club hammer I would place a piece of wood in front of bolt to prevent burr damage on thread assembly.
Very good video. You do a great job of explaining as you go. First one of yours I've watched but one of the best I have seen on this repair. Great job!!
Good job Chris , i have an 02 Acura Rsx and i will be tackling this coming wee. Thank you for the tips and sharing your video, keep up the good work. 👍
Pretty good video. A little disappointed that you ran out of steam and didn't show installing the race and left out the importance of the torque values. Keep up the good work and try not to run out of steam.
I learned a trick from another vid when I did my wheel bearing. You can just take off the caliper bolts. Thdn with finesse you can take it iff with the rotor attatch to it. I do it all the time now i need to take it off.
@13:14 Most videos I've seen use this press set wrong. The plate with the groove in it goes the other way round. So that it only pushes on the outer race when pressing the bearing in. It's possible to damage your new bearing doing it as shown in this video. Pushing on the inner race should only be done when installing the hub.
You could’ve just removed the lower ball joint and moved everything out of the way to free the CV. No need to disconnect the strut assembly or any other components besides the obvious ones. Great video though.
powerjd car needs to be fully lifted off the ground with enough room for you to stand under it to use a pry bar with enough leverage. that's not something you could do on just Jack stands
I just did a 2013 civic just disconnect the 2 bolts on the strut assembly and pull the hub assembly down and the CV axle will come out and clear the assembly. Then reattach the strut assembly and pull the hub and then bearing on the car. It can be done on jack stands no two post lift needed.
J Schermerhorn very true. However, i always do the extra step just to check the condition of the brakes. You never know when a small problem could be caused between you changing them and the present moment. Checking for uneven wear, overheating, or other issues is always important!
Just undo the caliper bracket bolts next time and pull the caliper and bracket as one assembly. No need to separate to take them apart to do the bearing. Also hit the knuckle to shock the tie rod end dont hit the actual stud and nut cause if you gotta beat you'll pull the threads. Anyways good video man
Great video. However, the screws on the rotor are difficult to take out because they’re easily mistakened for a Phillips head but the screws Honda uses on their rotors are Japanese industry standard. I learned that the hard way after stripping the screw head.
Years later and I’m still using the same grinder. Works like new. However, I took the guard off it a couple months ago for a weird one-off job, and when putting it back together I stripped the screw that holds the guard in place… 14/10 tool. After all that said, I do slightly agree with your comment 😂
Save a step. Take the caliper bracket and caliper off as a whole. No need to remove the caliper unless your changing brake pads as well. Still a good video. Back to basics with hand tools.
Not a good idea drinking while wrenching!!! Let me explain the dangers..... step 1. You have to constantly walk over to the cooler or fridge causing you to trip over your tools! Step 2..........
Great video ! One question it's not necessary too replace the hub even if you have driven the car with the bearing messed up? Can I just buy the bearing and press them into the hub like you did? Thank you
Just a FYI. You need to back up the inner race when you press on the hub and not hammer on the hub to avoid separating the inner race from the bearings.
2:31 can confirm these are a pain., and they do absolutely nothing; they're just an assembly aid for plant workers, really. Mine were rusted on so bad that nothing would remove them - tried WD40, a hand impact tool, you name it... Ended up destroying them with Dremel cutting wheels when replacing my rotors and never put new ones back on. lol
At 2:30 - Those are JIS not Phillips screws. Japanese Industrial Standard- JIS. If you use a phillips on it you will damage the heads of retaining screw.
i have been a ASE certified mechanic for 35 years and good to see that you are not worried about ruining the loaner tools by using them incorrectly. You must not like having toes because wearing sandles while working on cars
Impressive install vid with good tips. He’s obviously picked up good knowledge from paying attention to a good teacher. Use gloves next time. Nice work young fella.
I had a autozone parking lot mechanic (street mechanic) he did the brakes fine but put the bearing on wrong and abs sensor light is on. Next week get this all replaced and I went to a junkyard as mechanic sent me got the whole spindle with bearing from there. Do you think a brand new one is better or getting the whole piece. Thanks
Chris Meacham the part that presses into the bearing and has the lug studs is the hub. The steering spindle or knuckle is larger cast iron part that the lower/upper balljoints and tie rod end bolts to.
Easy way to know if abs side of bearings are installed right is to make sure the magnetic side of bearing is installed towards the engine. Not all bearing have colored seals so use a small piece of metal to see what side of bearing is magnetic and then u will know what side is what
Ive been a mechanic for 40 years and its great to see a young man not afraid to work on a car and get dirty. Good job
I agree, Mr dave the brave
What's wrong with wearing gloves so you don't cake yourself in toxic chemicals?
That's pretty much common sense to me.
maybe send him a pair of snap ring pliers, though? He got it done anyway.
One of the best repair videos I have seen. Easy to follow and clear instructions, size of bolts given, good video shots and no excess verbiage. Good job.
So refreshing to hear someone so well spoken! Using the correct words for things and actions...what a concept
Video is 6 years old and just wanted to let you still helping DIY a lot.very well explain thank you
This video convinced me to pay someone else and save my time for something else. GREAT job though young man and great instructions.
Lil Bru knows his stuff, articulate and has a gud vibe. 👌
He did the whole job like a professional in Nike flip flops that's funny
Cap
A Pro would not use the nut of the extraction tool on the outer side when extracting the bearing due to the issue the "pro" ran into 'not getting the bearing all the way out'
A Pro would not have nicked the hub.
A Pro would would not "chip" away on a 'Snap Ring' AKA 'Circlip'.
A Pro would not wear flip flips on the job due to the potential of falling heavy objects/tools.
@@tonysolar284op struck a nerve huh? It’s not that deep bro
Thank you, I have finally found a way to remove and place wheel bearings without having to use a press.
Super helpful, I used this video and changed my bearing. I had just had my car fixed after a bad accident only to find out I still had to wait to drive it after I had it fixed. Now I'm road ready. Thanks man!
Jacob Reyes sweet, I’m glad the video helped you out!
You did an excellent job. I had an FB mobile mechanic replaced my front bearings and he really messed it up by putting dents on my new wheel bearings.. He also replaced my lower balljoints and cv axles and he even installed the lower balljoints without the grease fittings and he called himself a mechanic. Yesterday I removed the front struts, balljoints and cv axles from my vehicle and the car now is running fine.
the one thing that soooooo many people do wrong in these videos is checking to make sure the bearing has enough seat pressure when the hub is installed. if your press does not have a guage then you will have to go by feel (which is an aquired, done a whole lot of them successfully - no come-backs, talent) with a torque wrench on the nut portion of a name brand hub puller (i have seen only one cheap one that had one and it was an Astro "MAC" copy) it should take around 210 inch pounds of torque to turn it. i have had success with as little as 65 inch pounds, but that vehicle did not pass state inspection for wheel play seven months later, i used a higher quality (priced also) bearing the second time around! thank you, it was a decent video!
Good job, buddy! Love to see young guys working on cars. When using that kit to draw in the bearing, if you put the long nut on the end that is drawn in to a hole or a receiving cup, it will be easier to hold onto the nut.
Thanks for the tip!
hey my friend. stumbled on your video while trying to find someone with a press to deal with my hubs on a different vehicle. Didn't know that tool was a thing. Thanks a TON!!
GOOD VIDEO !!! very informative. I have to do this for a 2016 Honda CRV. Should be a similar process. The only thing I do different when pressing in new bearings, I put them in the freezer overnight it makes them slide in so much easier. And old-timer showed me that years ago. Again thanks for the video !!!
great video dude. answered the questions the other vids didnt, quick and to the point
Very nicely done! No goofy music just a straight forward how to.
nice tutorial man, I hope to see you succeed as an automotive youtuber!
I appreciate it, have a happy thanksgiving and holiday season!
You forgot to tell them the brown side of the wheel bearings goes in the the abs sensor. Helpful tip great vib keep it up.
Or whichever side of the bearing sticks magnetically to screwdriver, socket, etc.
People’sChoiceHonda
Thanks, I wouldve probably stuck it in and call it a day... good to know for future reference
2011 Honda CRV and 2017 Civic are the same way as the 2009 you did. I have a bearing/seal removal and installation kit of my own. It took too much time and energy especially the really tight ones. I bought a harbor freight $139 shop press last month. So much easier. I've found lots of uses for it. Great video, very helpful!
I was trying to find the right removal tool and press the other day at HF and I couldn't make a choice because they have a few bearing removal tools and presses and the employees that work at my store couldn't offer any help. Really don't want to pay a machine shop to press them.
@@graystripe393 I agree. Your press is one tool. Your press tools are another. I had already bought a ball joint press kit that adapted well to Honda bearing. (C-clamp style replacement ball joint kit). Worked very well with the cheaper HF bench press.
Awesome vid man! Helped a ton! Don't forget to folks doing the job to put the bearing in the right way so the abs sensor reads properly. Had to pull mine apart as it triggered the abs light on car. Not something you want to have to pull apart again! So recommend installing that bearing in the right direction!
00Papyrus I’m glad you found this video helpful! good comment. I did forget to mention this. Sorry you were unlucky haha.
00Papyrus
Good to know, I thought it can go any way, sometimes u just get sucker ...
@@Hilary-ys1gk did u split hub from bearing and reuse?
Good video, concise. easy to follow ,no waffle job well done,. My only criticism and its a very small one is when you hammer the nut and bolt with club hammer I would place a piece of wood in front of bolt to prevent burr damage on thread assembly.
Very Good Job Young Man. Keep Up The Good Work and remember to include as needed only small details. Wheel sensor direction.Thanks!!
Nathan Johnson yeah i'm still beating myself up that I missed this important detail :(
My man with flip flop getting job done, awesome!
sock and sandal mechanic, my uncle would be proud
Thanks was having trouble gettn the clip out. Liked ur tips n tricks. Bout to finish my wheel bearing now
Thanks brother, awesome job. Am can definitely change mine after watching your video 👊
Great video quick tip unless your going to do any break work you can take the caliper and braket off in one piece.
buy dry ice or use deep freezer and dip the bearing for 20 min. No need puller to install bearing. Next do this with inner part. Good video
Very good video. You do a great job of explaining as you go. First one of yours I've watched but one of the best I have seen on this repair. Great job!!
Wow! Really enjoyed video. Thanks. Pretty straight forward. U cut right to the chase.
Antonio Aguilar thanks! Have a good day
Dude you rock, thanks for the no nonsense explenation.
Very informative, and very hilarious. Great video!😂
I love how your beating the nut of a rented tool with a lump hammer.
nice safety shoes dude!
Good job Chris , i have an 02 Acura Rsx and i will be tackling this coming wee. Thank you for the tips and sharing your video, keep up the good work. 👍
“You see that boys” man great video thanks for the info
Pretty good video. A little disappointed that you ran out of steam and didn't show installing the race and left out the importance of the torque values.
Keep up the good work and try not to run out of steam.
Aces Chris! Nice clear audio and stable video. Thanks so much.
Love this, not everyone has power tools! Great Vid
Also make sure you support that inner race of the new bearing when pressing the spindle back in or you will damage the bearing
That's why many peoples destroyed new bearings & tools, just because didn't know how to use tools properly !
Good job ! hope you have more for 5th Gen CR-V
Thanks for the video, well done 👏. Now I'm gonna have to tackle this myself.
Goodluck!! You got this
U motivated me big time.... Doing mines tomorrow. Thank you and God bless you and yours.
I learned a trick from another vid when I did my wheel bearing. You can just take off the caliper bolts. Thdn with finesse you can take it iff with the rotor attatch to it. I do it all the time now i need to take it off.
great tutorial and nice work without all the fancy tools.
@13:14 Most videos I've seen use this press set wrong.
The plate with the groove in it goes the other way round. So that it only pushes on the outer race when pressing the bearing in. It's possible to damage your new bearing doing it as shown in this video.
Pushing on the inner race should only be done when installing the hub.
Nice shots
Great Job. Magnetic ABS side in.
Great video, when everything goes good it looks pretty easy with the right tools, but, when things go wrong,,,,
Good job! Good video!
You could’ve just removed the lower ball joint and moved everything out of the way to free the CV. No need to disconnect the strut assembly or any other components besides the obvious ones. Great video though.
powerjd car needs to be fully lifted off the ground with enough room for you to stand under it to use a pry bar with enough leverage. that's not something you could do on just Jack stands
I just did a 2013 civic just disconnect the 2 bolts on the strut assembly and pull the hub assembly down and the CV axle will come out and clear the assembly. Then reattach the strut assembly and pull the hub and then bearing on the car. It can be done on jack stands no two post lift needed.
Steven Zembriski bro can you text me 3863012002 im trying to do this on a 9th gen
@@sopretty43vr what do you need to know as I explained it above in my comment 3 weeks ago.
Aye bro thank you just subscribed.. you make good videos
If your brakes were recently replaced, no need to remove the caliper slides independent of the caliper.
J Schermerhorn very true. However, i always do the extra step just to check the condition of the brakes. You never know when a small problem could be caused between you changing them and the present moment. Checking for uneven wear, overheating, or other issues is always important!
Good video, straight to the point
Good video, thanks man
Just undo the caliper bracket bolts next time and pull the caliper and bracket as one assembly. No need to separate to take them apart to do the bearing. Also hit the knuckle to shock the tie rod end dont hit the actual stud and nut cause if you gotta beat you'll pull the threads. Anyways good video man
Brown colored side needs to face sensor it's magnetic and black faces away from engine otherwise you'll get codes
Abe Garcia uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
If you use a JIS P3 rather than a US Phillips it will come out much easier. It is not actually a Phillips head fastener in there.
True. JIS...Japanese Industrial Standard.
I've never seen a hub bearing come apart like that.
Great video. However, the screws on the rotor are difficult to take out because they’re easily mistakened for a Phillips head but the screws Honda uses on their rotors are Japanese industry standard. I learned that the hard way after stripping the screw head.
So what are they if they are not phillips head?
@@Brandovibe idk but I used a Phillips screw driver lol
@@kyawpawkaren and did you get them out without stripping them?
Very impressive using primative tools and getting the job done!
Hey, good video. Since you took off all those bolts, do you have to take it for an alignment?
Well done dude!
Well done.👍
Great video! 👍🏼
10:57 “trusty harbor freight” my stomach dropped lol
Years later and I’m still using the same grinder. Works like new. However, I took the guard off it a couple months ago for a weird one-off job, and when putting it back together I stripped the screw that holds the guard in place… 14/10 tool. After all that said, I do slightly agree with your comment 😂
Super well explained video awesome!!!, thanks for all your help
Great video man. Thanks for sharing
Good Job 👍
You did a really good job
Slick Diaz thanks!
ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR SLIPPERS. :-)
Great job dude
Save a step. Take the caliper bracket and caliper off as a whole. No need to remove the caliper unless your changing brake pads as well. Still a good video. Back to basics with hand tools.
Great video Chris! Thanks for the help :)
Great video!
Great job young man
Nice job, by the end of the video it looked like your were ready for a "cold one"! :)
MakeYourOwnAdventure haha it seems that way. days out in the driveway wrenching are always better with refreshments!
Not a good idea drinking while wrenching!!! Let me explain the dangers..... step 1. You have to constantly walk over to the cooler or fridge causing you to trip over your tools! Step 2..........
Great video ! One question it's not necessary too replace the hub even if you have driven the car with the bearing messed up? Can I just buy the bearing and press them into the hub like you did? Thank you
chepepewis elevan just get the bearing
@@developmentdivision122 thanks
Big fan of your chocolate rain song.
hard market that singing gig. had to get a trade .
Just a FYI. You need to back up the inner race when you press on the hub and not hammer on the hub to avoid separating the inner race from the bearings.
thank you for this video 💪🏽💪🏽
Awesome! Well done and good video. As for the socks and flip flops... Man who dresses you? LOL!
Lawd have mercy -I won’t complain when the mechanic hands me the bill
Thanks brother. This definitely help[ed.
2:31 can confirm these are a pain., and they do absolutely nothing; they're just an assembly aid for plant workers, really. Mine were rusted on so bad that nothing would remove them - tried WD40, a hand impact tool, you name it... Ended up destroying them with Dremel cutting wheels when replacing my rotors and never put new ones back on. lol
At 2:30 - Those are JIS not Phillips screws.
Japanese Industrial Standard- JIS.
If you use a phillips on it you will damage the heads of retaining screw.
Best videos always have sandals
Your vids are simple and still got all the details 🤙🇲🇵
i have been a ASE certified mechanic for 35 years and good to see that you are not worried about ruining the loaner tools by using them incorrectly. You must not like having toes because wearing sandles while working on cars
Job well done. Thank you for the video.
Good men✌✌
Impressive install vid with good tips. He’s obviously picked up good knowledge from paying attention to a good teacher. Use gloves next time. Nice work young fella.
If you freeze the bearing overnight and heat the knuckle it is slip right in
great video! thanks!!
Good job bro. Tim from nyc
very nice video u explained it well thank u
I had a autozone parking lot mechanic (street mechanic) he did the brakes fine but put the bearing on wrong and abs sensor light is on. Next week get this all replaced and I went to a junkyard as mechanic sent me got the whole spindle with bearing from there. Do you think a brand new one is better or getting the whole piece. Thanks
What is the bracket / arm called that houses the bearing? (the bracket is in your right hand at the 10:44 timestamp of your video). Thanks!
Brian Stafford that is called the hub. The part that has the studs for the wheels is called the spindle.
Chris Meacham the part that presses into the bearing and has the lug studs is the hub. The steering spindle or knuckle is larger cast iron part that the lower/upper balljoints and tie rod end bolts to.
Great tutorial.
Thank you. Great video